NI3W  REVISED 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/campbellsnewrevi00camp_0 


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N. 


CAMPBELL’S 


NEW  REVISED 

COMPLETE  GUIDE  AND  DESCEIPTIVE  BOOK 


MEXICO 

By  REAU  CAMPBELL 


CHICAGO 

1901 


Copyright,  1899,  by  Reau  Campbell, 


Manz  & Co.,  Engravers, 
Chicago. 

Press  of 

Robert  0.  Law  Co. 

Chicago 

Brown-Cooper  Typesetting  Co. 
Chicago. 

Photographs  by  Winfield  Scott,  Mexico.  Detroit  Photographic  Co. 


Preface 


^n.i 

U5  + 
iioi 


^ - 

^ T T IS  the  early  traveler  in  a country  who  knows  the  real  need  of  a guide 
^ ^ and  descriptive  book,  from  the  fact  that  his  journeys  are  made,  perforce, 
^ without  one,  and  he  is  compelled  to  find  the  places  and  things  as  best  he  can. 
To  find  these  places  and  things,  of  which  one  may  have  only  heard,  is  not 
unattended  by  difficulties.  The  native  does  not  always  regard  them  as  out  of 
the  ordinary,  or  of  special  interest,  and,  however  courteous  and  willing  he 
^^^^ay  be,  is  not  always  able  to  show  the  way  to  objects  of  even  considerable 
27  importance. 

j I have  known  these  difficulties  as  an  early  traveler  in  Mexico,  and,  while 

1 I rejoiced  in  seeing  what  others  had  not  seen,  I have  wished  for  the  book 

might  guide  me  over  untraveled  roads,  till  I have  come  to  believe  that 
Jhe  who  writes  the  book  leaves  a legacy  to  him  who  comes  after. 

The  Guide  and  Descriptive  Book  of  Mexico  is  written  after  the  experiences 
[of  a decade  of  travel  in  that  country,  and  an  exploring  expedition  made  ex- 
, pressly  to  secure  a better  acquaintance  with  the  country,  these  have  given  a 
. knowledge  of  its  cities  and  towns,  of  its  mountains,  valleys  and  spreading 
^ plains,  and  of  its  history  and  legend,  impossible  from  reading  or  hearsay. 

The  Historical  and  Clerical  data  have  been  carefully  culled  from  the  best 
^authorities  and  from  the  records  of  Church  and  State. 

The  Legends  are  from  the  country’s  books  and  from  the  fascinating  folk- 

2 lore  of  its  people. 

Statistical  and  tabulated  information  is  compiled  from  the  latest  data  and 


from  the  most  reliable  sources. 


fO 

^ The  Maps  are  from  the  latest  surveys,  comprising  the  extension  of  rail- 
^^^ways  and  routes  of  travel  to  the  year  of  the  date  of  the  book. 

^ The  Descriptions  have  been  written  under  the  spell;  in  the  presence  of 
an  atmosphere  of  romantic  adventure;  while  loitering  in  the  fields  of  the 
^ Conquest;  under  the  shadows  of  ruined  temples,  whose  describing  by  the 
Q^^ncient  chronicler  suffices,  and  of  which  no  more  is  known  to-day  than  then, 

when  it  was  written  by  him  that  those  temples  were,  “the  work  of  a people 

iii 


iv 


which  had  passed  away,  under  the  assaults  of  barbarism,  at  a period  prior  to 
all  traditions,  leaving  no  name,  and  no  trace  of  their  existence  save  those 
monuments,  which,  neglected  and  forgotten  by  their  successors,  have  become 
the  riddle  of  later  generations.” 

The  Illustrations  are  from  photographs  taken  during  tours  of  the  country 
and  engraved  directly  from  those  photographs,  without  redrawing.  The  tour 
of  exploration  was  made  for  the  express  purpose  of  the  publication  of  a guide 
and  descriptive  book,  that  should  guide  and  describe  for  the  traveler  or  reader 
of  Mexico. 

Every  date  and  place  of  the  story  of  Mexico,  from  the  Grand  River  of  the 
North  to  Tehauntepec,  is  noted  compactly  and  with  all  the  accuracy  possible. 
Every  city  and  town  of  note  which  has  been  written  of  elsewhere  has  its  place 
here;  there  are  some  not  found  in  other  books  which  are  in  these  pages,  and 
none  are  more  important  or  more  interesting  than  the  pre-historic  Ruins 
of  Mitla,  visited  first  by  my  exploring  expedition  of  1894,  which  are  here 
written  of  for  the  first  time  since  the  earlier  chronicles  of  the  country. 

To  the  courteous  citizens  of  the  country  I traveled  in,  to  the  strangers  of 
America,  England,  France,  Spain  and  Germany  abiding  there,  to  the  Railway 
officials  especially,  and  to  my  co-travelers  and  explorers  I am  indebted;  to  the 
expert  artists  of  the  engravers’  craft,  and  of  the  art  preservative,  who  have 
made  a culmination  so  devoutly  wished,  I am  deeply  grateful. 

REAU  CAMPBELL. 

Chicago,  January  i,  1895. 

POSTSCRIPT. 

After  a book  is  in  print  it  is  the  cold  type  that  shows  so  glaringly  the 
faults  of  omission  and  commission,  not  more  apparent  to  any  one  than  to  its 
author — especially  if  that  author  has  continued  the  study  of  his  subject 

Since  the  first  edition  of  this  work  was  printed  I have  not  ceased  to 
travel  in  the  country  it  describes — and  if  I knew  Mexico  then,  and  a generous 
public  has  attested  that,  I should  know  it  better  now;  and  I have  left  out 
some  things  that  ought  to  have  been  omitted  before  and  added  that  which 
I should  not  have  left  out  at  all — till  now  the  work  is  well  nigh  complete, 
as  nearly  so  as  any  book  of  its  kind  may  be,  where  an  advancing  civilization 
changes  its  pages  almost  ere  they  are  written.  R.  C. 

January,  1904. 


Contents 


GEOGRAPHICAL — Rivers — Lakes — Harbors — Mountains — Table-lands 
— Seaports — Agriculture — Forests — Mines  and  Mining — Manufac- 
tures— Climate — Railroads — Steamer  Lines 

HISTORICAL — The  Toltecs  and  Aztecs — Conquest  by  Cortez — Viceroys 
— Independent  Mexico — Empire  of  Iturbide — Laws  of  the  Reform — 
Revolutions — American  War — French  Intervention — Administra- 
tion of  Diaz 

PRACTICAL  MATTERS — Railway  Tickets — Baggage  and  Customs 
Regulations — Money — Measures  and  Distances — Climate — Cloth- 
ing— Cabs  and  Carriages — Horse  Cars — Hotels  and  Restaurants — 
Stores  and  Shopping — Cigars  and  Tobacco — Police  and  Military — 
Doctors  and  Medicines — Cargadores — Church  Visiting — Postoffice 
— Express  Service — Telegraph — Baths — Servants — Dulces — Streets 
— Customs  and  Costumes — Official  Permits — Laundry 

AMUSEMENTS — Theatre  Principal — Theatre  Nacional — Arbeu  Theatre 
— Salon  de  Conciertos — Circo-Teatro  Orrin — Bull  Fights — Ball 
Games  • • 

THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO — Tenochtitlan — Chronology — Founding  by 
the  Mexicans — Reign  of  Montezuma — Entrance  by  Cortez — Siege 
by  the  Spaniards — Founding  by  Revillagigedo — City  Government 
— Markets — Flower  Markets — Portales — National  Palace — Mint — 
National  Library — School  of  Arts — National  Museum — Cathedral 
—First  Parish  Church — Churches — Religious  Orders — Jesuits — 
Inquisition — Schools  and  Colleges — Hospitals — Alameda — Paseos 
Calzadas  — Aqueducts  — Monuments  — Monte  Piedad  — Plazas  — 
Newspapers — Streets — Panteones  

AROUND  THE  VALLEY — Chapultepec — Molino  del  Rey — Tacubaya 
— Mixcoac — San  Angel — Coyoacan — Tlalpam — Noche  Triste — Ta- 
cuba — Atzcapatzalco — La  Piedad — La  Viga  Canal — The  Paseo — 
Desierto — San  Juan  Teotihuacan — Tlalnepantla — Tajo  de  Nochis- 

tongo — Guadelupe — Los  Remedios  

V 


PAGF, 

7 


23 


43 


61 


71 


I3I 


vi 


PAGE 


CITIES  AND  TOWNS  OF  MEXICO— Acambaro— A guas  Calientes— 
Amecameca — Catorce  — Celaya  — Chihuahua  — Cordoba — Cuautla — 
Cuernavaca  — Durango  — Guadalajara  — Guanajuato  — Irapuato  — 
Jalapa  — Lagos — Leon — Lerdo — Maravatio — Monclova  — Morelia — 
Oaxaca — Ruins  of  Mitla — Orizaba — Pachuca — Patzcuaro — Puebla — 
Pyramid  of  Cholula — Queretaro — Saltillo — Salvatierra — San  Luis 
Potosi — San  Miguel  de  Allende — Silao — Tampico — Texcoco — Tlax- 
cala — Toluca — Tula — Vera  Cruz — Yautepec — Zacatecas 155 

RAILWAY  RIDES  IN  MEXICO — South  over  the  Central — Westward 
to  Guadalajara — Eastward  to  Tampico — Eastward  over  the  Mex- 
ican Railway — Westward  over  the  International — Eastward  over  the 
Interoceanic — South  over  the  National — Westward  from  Acambaro 
— The  Mexican  Northern  Railway — South  over  the  Southern — 

South  over  the  Mexico,  Cuernavaca  & Pacific— The  Michoacan  & 
Pacific — The  Monterey  & Mexican  Gulf  Railroad — South  over  the 
Sonora  Railway — The  Tehuantepec  Railway — Hidalgo  Railway — 


Mexican  National  Construction  Company 267 

THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  MEXICO— Names  of  States— Capitals— 

Area — Assessed  Values — Population — Government — Taxes  320 

LOCATION,  POPULATION  AND  ALTITUDES. 321 

HOTELS  AND  RESTAURANTS 322 

STREET  CAR  LINES 325 

MAP,  AROUND  THE  VALLEY 326 

TABLE  OF  TERMS 327 

CHRONOLOGICAL  338 

MAPS  345 


Geographical. 


Between  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  east, 
the  United  States  on  the  north  and  Guatemala  on  the  south,  lies  the  Repub- 
lic of  Mexico,  extending  from  the  15th  to  the  326.  degree  of  north  latitude, 
and  from  the  86th  to  the  ii6th  degree  of  longitude  west  from  Greenwich. 
From  north  to  south  the  length  is  nearly  2,000  miles;  from  east  to  west 
about  800  at  the  widest  part,  with  an  area  of  772,652  square  miles.  Along 
the  Gulf  coast  the  low  ground  extends  a distance  into  the  interior,  called 
the  tierra  caliente ^ or  hot  land;  then  it  rises  in  terraces  to  the  table-lands 
called  the  tierratemplada,  temperate  land,  and  still  to  the  regions  of  higher 
elevation,  to  the  tierrafria^  or  cold  land.  In  the  tierra  caliente  it  is  summer 
always;  in  the  tierra  temp lada  eternal  spring;  in  the  tierra  fria\\,  is  rarely 
cold  enough  for  snow  or  ice. 

On  the  table  lands  of  the  interior  there  is  a wide  expanse  of  treeless, 
plains,  and  but  for  the  grand  army  of  the  cactus  would  be  plantless,  save 
in  the  valleys,  where  trees  line  the  banks  of  the  little  rios  and  lakes  and 
irrigating  canals,  but  on  the  coast  slopes  and  the  low  lands  there  are  tangled 
forests  of  tropical  verdure.  The  table  lands  of  the  highest  altitude  are  those 
in  Central  Mexico.  The  plain  of  Toluca  is  about  8,575  feet  above  the  sea; 
the  Valley  of  Mexico  7,478;  Puebla  about  the  same  as  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
but  for  the  most  part  a little  higher.  The  table  lands  of  the  north  range 
from  2,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Humboldt  said  he  could  drive  his 
carriage  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Santa  Fe  without  the  trouble  of  pre- 
paring a road;  certainly  he  would  not  have  found  it  necessary  to  cut  down 
a tree,  but  it  would  be  a rocky  road,  up  hill  and  down  dale. 

Climate — Not  on  earth  is  there  a more  equable,  more  delightful  climate 
than  is  found  in  Mexico.  Winter  and  summer  alike  are  made  up  of  delight- 
ful days;  in  winter  of  cloudless  skies,  in  summer  of  cooling  showers. 

It  is  an  erroneous  idea  that  it  is  not  safe  or  pleasant  to  travel  in  Mexico 
in  summer;  in  the  interior  the  summer  time  is  the  most  delightful.  The 
only  difference  between  summer  and  winter  is  that  it  rains  in  the  summer 

7 


8 


and  does  not  in  the  winter.  The  rainy  season  commences  in  May  or  June, 
and  lasts  until  October  and  sometimes  into  November.  The  altitude,  the 
showers,  the  cooling  breezes  from  the  snow  mountains  make  a perfect  sum- 
mer climate,  and  a healthful  one.  Fevers  peculiar  to  the  tropics  are  known 
only  in  the  hot  lands  of  the  immediate  coast,  and  never  experienced  on 
the  elevated  table-lands  or  even  on  the  slopes  sixty  miles  from  the  coast. 
The  mean  temperature  of  the  hot  lands  is  about  8o°;  of  the  interior  table- 
lands, as  in  the  capital  and  principal  cities,  70°,  and  the  higher  elevations 
60°.  Make  your  outings  in  Mexico  generally  in  the  morning  and  you  will 
avoid  the  showers  that  nearly  always  come  up  in  the  afternoons  of  sum- 
mer, and  winds  blowing  dust  and  sand  after  mid-day  in  winter.  A more 
perfectly  delightful  climate  is  hardly  possible  to  imagine,  and  possibly  exists 
in  few  other  countries. 

Rivers — The  rivers  of  Mexico  are  more  dignified  by  the  appellation  than 
from  the  amount  of  water  flowing  within  their  banks.  They  are  little  more 


than  creeks,  but  as  to  length  they  are  entitled  to  be  called  rivers.  With 
the  exception  of  the  Rio  Panuco,  and  one  or  two  others,  the  rivers  of 
Mexico  are  not  navigable,  and  then  only  for  a short  distance  from  their 
mouths.  The  lack  of  tributaries,  and  the  immense  amount  of  water  drawn 
off  for  irrigating  purposes,  is  the  reason  given  for  the  small  size  of  the 
streams.  For  the  most  part  they  are,  during  the  winter,  but  straggling 
brooks,  or  it  may  be,  their  beds  are  completely  dry,  but  in  the  rainy  sea- 


9 


son  become  raging  torrents.  The  Lerma  is  the  longest  river  in  Mexico, 
running  its  whole  length  within  that  country,  being  nearly  700  miles  long. 
The  Rio  Grande,  which  rises  in  the  United  States,  is  over  1,500  miles  long. 
The  Panuco,  at  Tampico,  is  a beautiful  stream,  navigable  some  200  miles  or 
more  through  a tropical  country,  the  banks  fringed  with  that  verdure  so 
often  described  by  travelers  in  the  tropics.  The  navigation  of  these  few 
miles  of  deep  water  in  Mexico  is  to  be  one  of  the  attractions  for  tourists 
in  that  section.  The  jetties  at  the  mouth  of  the  Panuco  make  the  harbor 
at  Tampico  one  of  deep  water. 

The  Rio  Lerma  rises  on  the  west  slope  of  the  Sierra  Madres,  not  far 
from  Toluca,  and  runs  in  a northwesterly  course  till  it  empties  into  Lake 
Chap'^la,  and,  curiously  enough,  leaves  the  lake  again,  only  a few  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  becomes  another  river,  the  Santiago,  flowing  on  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Mexican  National  Railroad  crosses  the  Lerma  near 
its  source,  east  of  Toluca,  and  at  Acambaro,,  running  along  its  course  be- 
tween the  two  points.  The  Central  crosses  the  Lerma  three  times ; near  La 
Piedad,  again  at  La  Barca  and  a third  time  at  Ocotlan,  where  it  becomes  the 
Santiago,  after  passing  through  Lake  Chapala.  Humboldt  said  that  the  Lerma 
could  be  made  a navigable  river,  as  he  also  said  he  could  drive  a carriage  on  the 
table-lands  from  the  capital  to  El  Paso ; in  either  case  there  would  be  many  ups 
and  downs  to  be  encountered.  The  Santiago,  or  Lerma,  empties  into  the  Pacific 
near  San  Bias.  The  river  at  Morelia,  along  which  the  National  Railroad  runs 
near  that  city,  is  called  the  Morelia  River,  though  there  are  other  names.  The 
Grijalva  River,  named  for  the  commander  of  the  Spanish  fleet,  who  was  the  first 
white  man  who  ever  saw  it,  rises  in  Guatemala,  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  at 
Frontera.  The  Rio  Usumacinta  also  has  its  source  in  Guatemala,  and  empties 
into  the  Gulf  near  Frontera.  The  Rio  Balsas,  also  called  Mescala  and  Zacatula, 
rises  in  the  State  of  Tlaxcala  and  flows  westward,  and  empties  into  the  Pacific  at 
Zacatula.  The  Papaloapan  rises  in  the  mountains  and  empties'  into  the  Gulf 
at  Alvarado.  The  Rio  Coatzacoalcos  rises  in  Oaxaca  and  empties  into  the 
Gulf  at  the  town  of  the  same  name.  Atoyac  is  a favorite  name  for  rivers ; 
there  are  several  of  them  in  the  States  of  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz.  Nearly  all 
of  the  rivers  in  the  south  of  Mexico,  as  the  Papaloapan,  San  Jose  and  others, 
are  navigable  for  light  draught  boats  for  some  miles — but  withal  of  interest 
to  the  more  venturesome  traveler. 

The  Rio  Nazas  is  one  of  the  rivers  that  loses  its  waters  in  the  marshes 
of  the  great  Bolson  de  Mapimi.  The  Sonora,  Yaqui  and  Mayo  rise  in  the 
mountains  of  western  Mexico  and  empty  into  the  Gulf  of  California. 

Lakes — The  lakes  of  Mexico  are  of  exceeding  great  beauty.  Than  those 
of  Chapala  and  Patzcuaro  no  prettier  waters  are  anywhere  in  the  world — 
not  even  the  romantic  Como,  the  tales  of  whose  beauties  are  so  eloquently 
told,  can  surpass  their  islands  and  wooded  shores,  and  only  the  villas  are 
lacking  to  make  them  as  picturesque  as  Como  or  Maggiore.  Lake  Patzcuaro 
is  the  highest  navigable  water  in  Mexico,  and  next  highest  on  the  continent, 
Yellowstone  Lake  only  having  a higher  altitude.  The  islands  look  like  the 
peaks  of  submerged  mountains  with  only  the  tops  above  the  water ; on  their 
rugged  sides,  seeming  to  cling  to  them,  are  some  huts  of  the  fishermen  of 
the  lake,  and  up  near  the  top  of  one  the  square  white  tower  of  a church 
rises  above  the  trees,  the  sonorous  sounds  of  whose  bells  float  over  the  beautiful 
waters. 

There  are  canoes  for  freight  and  passengers,  and  a few  rude  sail  boats 
making  voyages  between  Patzcuaro  cincl  the  islands  and  mainland  ports  up 


10 


the  lake,  and  to  Tzintzuntzan,  where  the  celebrated  picture  by  Titian  is,  in  a 
ruined  church.  Lake  Patzcuaro  is  near  the  city  of  that  name  on  the  west- 
ern division  of  the  Mexican  National  Railroad;  it  is  about  thirty  miles  long 
and  twelve  miles  wide. 

Lake  Cuitzeo  is  also  on  the  same  division  of  the  National,  thirty  miles 
west  of  Acambaro,  the  junction  point  with  the  main  line.  Lake  Cuitzeo  is 
forty-five  miles  long  and  ten  wide.  The  islands  are  very  much  like  those 
in  Lake  Patzcuaro;  some  of  them  are  inhabited.  One,  ‘‘La  Isla  de  los 
Burros,”  is  the  objective  point  of  a very  interesting  voyage  from  the  sta- 
tion at  Querendaro,  where  canoes  may  be  obtained.  The  island  is  inhabited 
by  a hardy  tribe  of  Indian  fishermen,  who  know  little  of  the  main  land, 
and  care  less — a happy  contented  lot,  living  off  of  what  they  can  catch, 
the  little  white  fish  about  the  size  of  a minnow  or  whitebait,  which,  when 
they  are  dried  in  the  sun,  are  ready  for  the  table,  if  there  was  one  on  the 
island.  The  lake  is  literally  alive  with  water  fowl,  and  so  unused  to  the  gun 
that  many  a good  shot  may  be  had.  On  the  eastern  shore  there  are  some 
old  salt  works,  and  near  the  station  of  Querendaro  some  hot  springs,  the 


LAKE  PATZCUARO. 

steam  rising  from  the  marsh  in  white  columns.  Near  the  track,  where  one 
of  the  largest  springs  rises,  is  a pool  so  arranged  that  the  waters  can  be 
turned  in  or  out,  as  the  water  may  be  too  cold  or  hot.  On  the  bushes,  on 
the  trees,  on  the  rocks,  and  stuck  in  the  ground,  are  rude  crosses  made 
of  sticks  and  twigs,  left  there  by  grateful  bathers  whose  ills  have  been  cured 
by  the  genial  waters. 

Lake  Chapala  is  the  largest  lake  in  Mexico.  It  is  nearly  loo  miles  long 
and  is  thirty-three  miles  at  the  widest  point.  It  is  near  the  line  of  the 
Guadalajara  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  near  the  city  of  that 
name.  The  stations  of  La  Barca  and  Ocotlan  are  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
River  Lerma  empties  into  Lake  Chapala,  and  the  same  river  under  another 
name,  Santiago,  but  some  authorities  use  the  same  name,  is  the  outlet. 

“Libertad”  was  the  name  of  Lake  Chapala’s  first  steamboat.  She  ran 
from  La  Barca  to  the  towns  and  villages  up  the  lake,  and  the  voyage  was 
one  of  the  most  delightful  in  Mexico,  through  the  “floating  islands”  to 
the  towering  cliffs  with  sparkling  cascades  tumbling  into  the  lake  from  far 
up  the  rocks,  by  the  picturesque  towns  and  villages,  of  which  the  town  of 
Chapala  is  a resort  of  ancient  renown,  from  its  pure  and  healthful  climate, 
its  hot  springs  and  most  picturesque  scenery. 


11 


The  steamer  “Libertad’’  had  her  machinery  built  in  California,  and  was 
transported  by  piecemeal  on  burros  over  the  mountains  from  San  Bias. 

In  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi  are  several  lakes,  of  which  Mayran  and  Parras 
are  the  largest — twenty  to  thirty  miles  long  by  ten  to  fifteen  wide.  In  the 
Valley  of  Mexico  and  near  the  City  are  Zumpango,  Xaltocan  and  San  Cris- 
tobal on  the  north,  Lake  Texcoco  on  the  east  and  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo 
on  the  south.  La  Viga  and  the  other  canals  connecting  them  with  the  City. 
All  are  very  shallow  and  without  an  outlet,  except  what  results  from  the 
great  drainage  ditches  and  tunnels. 

The  steamboat  has  not  made  its  advent  on  the  lakes  of  the  Plain  of 
Mexico;  transportation  is  carried  on  by  long  flat-bottom  boats  propelled 
by  poles  in  the  hands  of  strong  men.  There  are  regular  packets  betw^een 
the  City  and  the  towns  and  villages  on  the  lake  shores,  some  of  them  of  ca- 
pacity for  fifty  or  sixty  passengers,  and  where  voyages  cover  many  miles 
and  two  or  three  days’  time,  they  have  accommodations  for  eating  or  sleep- 
ing in  the  most  primitive  style.  The  passengers  are  mostly  country  folk 
bringing  their  wares  or  garden  truck  to  the  city  markets.  The  burros  and 
dogs  lend  their  presence  to  make  up  a picturesque  ship’s  company. 


ON  LAKE  CHAPALA. 

Cortez  came  across  Texcoco  in  some  such  flat-bottom  boats  from  the 
eastern  shore  when  he  laid  siege  to  the  City  of  Mexico;  but  there  was  deeper 
water  in  those  days,  and  the  feat  was  not  without  its  merits.  If  you  are 
rowing  or  sailing  on  any  lake  in  Mexico  let  it  be  done  in  the  early  morn- 
ing or  at  least  before  noon;  winds  will  come  up  very  soon  after  mid-day 
and  will  not  subside  till  the  sun  goes  down — not  that  there  is  danger,  but 
smooth  water  makes  more  pleasant  voyages. 

Motttitaiiis — Ask  a native,  “What  mountains  are  those?”  His  answer — 
no  matter  where  he  is  or  where  the  mountains  are — is  “Las  Madres.”  Another 
appellation  is  “las  sierras ;”  the  word  “sierra”  means  a saw,  the  sharp  peaks 
resembling  the  teeth.  Certain  peaks  here  and  there  take  names  from  their 
fantastic  shape,  curious  color,  or  from  an  incident  of  history  or  legend,  as 
Ixtaccihuatl  is  the  “White  Woman;”  Malintzi,  called  “Malinche,”  was  named 
from  an  appellation  of  La  Marina,  the  guide,  interpreter  and  wife  of  Cortez. 
There  is  no  mistaking  the  Saddle  Mountain  at  Monterey,  as  a perfect  saddle 
is  on  its  crest ; or  the  Mountain  of  the  Mitres  in  the  same  valley — the  bishop's 
mitre  is  as  plain  as  if  cut  out  with  a scissors.  The  only  active  volcano  is  that 
of  Colima. 

Above  ranges  high  peaks  are  raised  to  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  and 


12 

volcanoes  still  produce  fire  and  brimstone.  The  following  are  the  most  im- 


portant: 

Ajusco,  Federal  District  13,612 

Cerro  de  Culiacan,  State  of  Guanajuato  10,640 

Cerro  del  Proaho,  State  of  Zacatecas 7,762 

Cerro  de  Patamban,  State  of  Michoacan 12,290 

Cofre  de  Perote,  or  Nauchampatepetl,  State  of  Vera  Cruz..  . 13,403 

Cumbre  de  Jesus  Maria,  State  of  Chihuahua 8,230 

Gigante,  State  of  Guanajuato  10,653 

Ixtaccihuatl,  States  of  Mexico  and  Puebla  16,060 

Las  Navajas,  State  of  Hidalgo  10,528 

Los  Llanitos,  State  of  Guanajuato 11,013 

Matlalcueyatl,  or  Malintzi,  State  of  Tlaxcala 13,462 

Nevado  de  Colima,  State  of  Jalisco  i4,350 

Neyado  de  Toluca,  or  Xinantecatl,  State  of  Mexico 15,000 

Orizaba,  or  Citlaltepetl,  State  of  Vera  Cruz  17,356 

Pico  de  Quinceo,  State  of  Michoacan  10,895 

Pico  de  Tancitaro,  State  of  Michoacan 12,653 

Popocatepetl,  States  of  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz 17,782 

Veta  Grande,  State  of  Zacatecas  9,965 

Volcan  de  Colima,  State  of  Jalisco  12,728 

Zempoaltepec,  State  of  Oaxaca  11,965 


Table-lands — The  plains  of  Mexico  vary  in  extent  from  a score  of 
square  miles  to  many  thousands;  they  are  arid  and  they  are  fertile,  they 
are  as  a desert  and  as  a marsh.  The  Bajio,  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  is 
a very  fertile  district  well  watered,  and  near  to  it  the  Cazadero  (hunting 
place),  in  Queretaro,  a district  of  grazing.  The  Plains  of  Apam  are  noted 
for  the  growth  of  the  maguey  and  its  production  of  pulque;  on  one  side 
of  these  fertile  lands  is  the  arid  Plain  of  San  Juan;  to  the  north  and  east, 
just  on  the  edge  of  the  terrace,  are  great  marshes  almost  covered  with  water. 
In  the  State  of  San  Luis  Potosi  a desert  extends  from  a few  miles  north 
of  the  capital  nearly  to  Saltillo.  In  the  States  of  Coahuila,  Durango  and 
Chihuahua  are  the  lagoons  and  marshes  of  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi. 

On  the  table-lands  of  the  interior  altitudes  the  cereals  of  the  temperate 
zone  are  grown  to  the  extent,  in  many  places,  of  two  crops  a year  where 
the  lands  are  well  irrigated;  in  the  Nazas  Valley  cotton  grows  so  luxuri- 
antly that  it  does  not  require  replanting  till  from  four  to  five  years. 

The  Coast  is  almost  devoid  of  harbors  and  safe  roadsteads  except  at  Tam- 
pico, where  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Panuco  has  been  jettied  over  a thousand  feet 
out  into  the  Gulf.  The  outward  scour  of  the  river  cleans  the  sands  from  the  bar, 
affording  an  entrance  for  the  largest  ships  and  a safe  harbor  large  enough 
for  all  purposes.  At  Vera  Cruz  ships  anchor  opposite  the  city  and  dis- 
charge cargoes  and  passengers  under  the  lee  of  a great  sea  wall,  so  that 
the  lighters  are  dispensed  with  and  ships  discharge  and  load  at  the  piers.  It 
has  taken  nearly  400  years  to  find  out  that  a safe  harbor  could  be  made  at  Vera  Cruz. 

At  Coatzacoalcos,  the  Gulf  terminus  of  the  Tehuantepec  Railway,  a deep 
water  harbor  will  be  provided,  as  the  physical  advantages  of  the  port  are 
capable  of  great  improvement  by  jetties.  On  the  Pacific  Coast  the  harbor 
of  Salina  Cruz,  near  Tehuantepec,  will  be  improved  for  the  entrance  of 
big  ships.  At  Acapulco  is  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world;  at  Man- 
zanillo, Mazatlan,  San  Bias  and  Guaymas  are  very  fine  harbors.  The  moun- 
tains on  this  coast  are  washed  by  the  sea,  while  on  the  Gulf  are  wide 
pauses  of  lowlands  with  the  hills  farther  to  the  interior, 


13 


Agriculture  aud  Forests — The  lands  of  Mexico,  with  its  diversified  cli- 
mate, grow  the  vegetable  products  of  the  world — corn,  wheat,  rye  and  bar- 
ley, of  the  temperate  zone,  on  the  uplands;  sugar  cane,  coffee,  the  finest  in 
the  world,  vanilla,  cotton,  indigo,  rubber,  tobacco,  jalap  and  cocoa  in  the 
hot  lands,  while  every  variety  of  cactus  produces  something  of  use,  from 
the  fibre  of  the  ixtle  to  the  pulque  of  the  maguey. 

The  Maguey,  the  American  Aloe,  is  probably  the  most  popular  plant  that 
grows  in  Mexico;  from  the  various  branches  of  the  maguey  family  are 
produced  the  intoxicating  drinks  of  the  country,  pulque,  tequila  and  mescal. 
The  maguey  is  what  we  call  the  Century  plant,  from  the  idea  that  it  blooms 
once  in  a hundred  years — which  is  correct — it  blooms  but  once  in  its  life. 
Tequila  and  mescal,  both  transparent  liquors,  are  obtained  by  a distillation 
of  the  root  and  the  lower  leaves  after  roasting;  the  liquor  is  very  strong. 


GATHERING  PULQUE. 

having  a large  percentage  of  alcohol.  Pulque  is  the  fermented  sap  or  juice 
of  the  maguey.  When  the  plant  is  about  to  bloom  the  stem  that  would  in 
a few  days  run  up  to  a height,  is  cut  out,  forming  a bowl,  into  which  gathers 
the  sap  that  would  otherwise  produce  this  long  stalk;  this  juice  or  sap, 
called  agua  miel^  honey  water,  is  gathered  a gallon  or  two  each  day  till 
the  plant  is  exhausted,  when  it  dies  and  another  one  is  put  in  its  place 
that  will  not  produce  for  eight  or  ten  years.  A peon  and  a burro  -laden 
with  empty  hog-skin  bags  or  bottles  go  through  the  fields;  finding  a plant 
that  is  ready  the  peon  takes  a long  slender  gourd  that  has  a small  hole  in 
each  end;  one  end  in  the  bowl  of  sap  in  the  plant  the  other  in  his  lips  he 
draws  the  sap  into  the  gourd  until  it  is  full,  then  empties  it  into  the  hog- 
skins,  and  when  they  are  full  they  are  emptied  into  a cask  on  a near-by  cart, 
taken  to  the  hacienda,  fermented  overnight  and  taken  to  the  City  in  the 


14 


morning.  Pulque  spoils  (if  it  can  really  spoil)  within  twenty-four  hours. 
If  drank  at  all  it  must  be  done  at  once;  which  may  account  for  the  energy 
of  the  Mexican  in  this  direction. 

All  the  vegetables  and  fruits  known  in  North  America  are  found  in  the 
gardens  and  orchards  of  Mexico,  and  all  those  of  the  tropics  are  in  the 
fields  and  forests  of  the  tierra  caliente — oranges,  lemons,  pine-apples,  ba- 
nanas, and  scores  of  others  as  the  granadita,  mamey  and  the  chirimoya 
that  are  never  heard  of  except  in  Mexico.  There  is  an  infinite  variety  of 
flowers  in  Mexico,  comprising  all  those  of  temperate  and  torrid  zones. 

In  the  forests  are  all  the  hardwoods,  mahogany,  rosewood,  ebony,  as  well 
as  the  oak,  pine  and  cedar  of  less  value.  In  a great  extent  of  country,  in 
the  interior,  wood  of  any  kind  is  scarce,  and  timbers  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses are  freighted  from  distant  points.  The  possibilities  for  agricultural  im- 
provement are  unbounded. 


BRINGING  OUT  SILVER. 

Mines  and  Mining — This  subject  may  be  treated  in  one  word,  silver. 
It  is  everywhere,  in  every  state,  in  every  hill  and  mountain.  It  is  probable 
that  the  total  production  of  silver  in  Mexico,  since  the  opening  of  the  mines 
to  date,  would  reach  $4,000,000,000.  Gold  exists  in  small  quantities.  It  is 
a curious  fact  that  the  ornaments  found  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  houses  of 
the  native  kings  and  nobles  were  all  of  gold;  silver  was  hardly  mentioned 
among  the  trophies  taken  to  Spain.  There  is  little  iron,  except  at  Durango, 
where  there  is  a mountain  of  it  that  is  from  seventy-five  to  ninety  per  cent,  of 
pure  metal.  Coal  of  fair  quality  is  mined  extensievly.  Lead  there  is,  and 
some  copper;  also  quicksilver,  cinnabar,  salt,  bismuth,  alum,  asphalt,  naphtha 
and  petroleum;  sulphur  is  taken  in  huge  blocks — pure  sulphur  from  the 


15 


crater  of  Popocatepetl,  the  mining  of  which  has  been  going  on  since  the 
time  when  Cortez’  soldiers  let  themselves  down  by  ropes  and  baskets  to 
gather  material  for  powder  for  the  conqueror’s  cannon. 

The  most  primitive  methods  of  mining  are  yet  in  use  in  Mexico,  but  mod- 
ern machinery  is  being  introduced.  The  shafts,  sometimes  hundreds  of 
feet  deep,  are  worked  with  a windlass  and  mule-power,  and  in  some  places 
the  miners  pass  up  and  down  on  ladders  or  steps  cut  in  the  side  of  the 
shaft.  The  peon  miners  do  not  mind  the  heat  or  the  water,  but  trudge 
along  day  after  day  for  the  smallest  wages  or  a percentage  of  what  he 
handles. 

The  old  patio  process,  for  the  amalgamation  of  silver,  invented  by  Bar- 
tolome  Medina  in  1557,  is  still  the  most  popular  method.  The  ore  is  first 
crushed  in  a mill  which  consists  of  an  immense  rolling  stone  turned  by 
mules;  the  smaller  particles  fall  through  a seive,  the  larger  ones  are  crushed 
again,  and  so  on,  are  passed  through  other  revolving  stones  till  the  ore 

becomes  a powder;  this  powder  is  carried  by  water  through  a trough  to  a 

paved  patio  or  court,  and  when  the  mass  is  about  two  feet  deep,  blue  vitriol, 
salt  and  quicksilver  are  thrown  into  it  by  handfuls  till  sufficiently  impreg- 
nated, then  a herd  of  mules  is  driven  round  and  round  in  the  patio  till  the 
mass  is  thoroughly  mixe"d,  taking  from  two  to  four  weeks.  The  silver 
mud  is  then  taken  to  the  washers,  or  tanks,  and  stirred  in  the  water  till 

the  amalgam  of  silver  and  quicksilver,  being  heavy,  sinks  to  the  bottom; 

this  mass  is  taken  then  to  a sort  of  distillery  and  the  mercury,  separated  by 
distillation,  leaves  blocks  of  pure  silver. 

Manufactures — Mexico  has  advanced  wonderfully  in  manufactures  in  the 
last  decade,  till,  within  herself,  she  could  supply  all  wants  of  her  people 
without  the  imports  from  the  outside  world,  could  clothe  them  from  head 
to  foot,  feed  them,  give  then  wine  to  drink  and  houses  to  live  in.  Statis- 
tical information  as  to  manufactures  is  not  expected  here.  The  percentage 
of  increase  is  not  easily  calculated.  The  advance  has  been  from  the  primi- 
tive hand  loom  of  reeds  to  the  factory  of  the  most  improved  machinery. 
The  lack  of  the  important  factor  of  fuel  will  necessarily  relegate  the  manu- 
factories to  the  timbered  regions,  or  to  the  line  of  the  water-powers  of  the 
country,  where  fuel  is  not  needed.  The  forests  are  for  the  most  part  in 
remote  sections  and  in  the  hot  lands.  Coal  is  not  yet  mined  in  sufficient 
quantities,  though  it  exists  in  many  parts  of  the  Republic,  and  there  are 
evidences  of  petroleum. 

The  water-powers  have  never  been  utilized  to  their  fullest  capacity,  and 
there  are  great  possibilities  in  this  direction,  as  at  Juanacatlan,  near  Guada- 
lajara, where  a wide  river  makes  a sheer  fall  of  seventy-one  feet.  It  is  used 
only  for  an  electric  light  plant,  and  one  mill  and  a factory,  but  the  whole 
river  from  its  source  to  the  mouth  has  scores  and  scores  of  sites  for  other 
factories  and  mills. 

Carpets  and  woolen  cloths  are  made  at  Soria,  near  Celaya,  at  Salvatierra, 
and  several  other  points;  calicoes  and  cotton  goods  in  the  Federal  District 
and  in  many  of  the  larger  cities;  blankets  and  zerapes  at  Durango,  Sal- 
tillo, San  Miguel  de  Allende,  Aguas  Calientes,  Guadalajara  and  San  Luis 
Potosi;  saddles,  bridles,  shoes  and  leather  goods  at  Leon,  Maravatio  and 
the  City  of  Mexico;  cigars  and  cigarettes  at  Vera  Cruz,  the  City  of  Mexico, 
and  the  larger  cities;  breweries  are  at  Monterey,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Chi- 
huahua, Puebla,  Orizaba,  Guadalajara  and  Toluca;  foundry  and  rolling  mill 
near  the  iron  mountain  at  Durango.  Chihuahua  and  Monterey  are  the  larg- 
est manufacturing  centers  of  the  country;  the  factories  include  almost  every 
branch  of  trade. 


16 


The  great  Hercules  Mills  near  Queretaro  are  among  the  finest  cotton 
factories  in  the  world  and  second  to  these  only  are  the  mills  on  the  line 
of  the  Mexican  Railway  near  Puebla,  and  at  Nogales  near  Orizaba. 

Smelters  and  reduction  works  for  getting  out  silver  are  located  in  all 
the  great  mining  towns.  Sugar  mills  are  in  the  cane  country,  but  as  yet 
the  refineries  are  very  few.  Crockery  and  pottery  are  made  at  Puebla,  Guada- 
lajara, and  in  very  many  smaller  towns  and  villages.  The  onyx  of  Puebla 
is  famous  for  its  delicate  beauty.  It  is  manufactured  into  very  handsome 
ornaments  and  used  extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  tops  for  stands  and 
tables,  altars,  fonts,  etc.,  for  shrines  and  churches.  All  of  Mexico’s  manufac- 
tures are  infant  industries,  but  growing  very  rapidly. 


CURVED  BRIDGE  ON  THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  RY. 


Railroads — THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY  was  the  first  completed  line  in 
Mexico.  It  extends  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  263  miles,  passing 
through  a very  rich  region,  both  in  the  tropics  and  the  table-lands.  Cordoba 
and  Orizaba  are  the  principal  cities  in  the  tierra  caliente.  The  line  is  famous 
the  world  over  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  and  that  between  Maltrata  and 
Esperanza  is  beautiful  beyond  all  description.  From  Esperanza  the  line  runs 
through  a succession  of  fertile  plains;  the  most  noted  are  the  famous  pulque 
Plains  of  Apam.  The  tram-road  from  Tejeria  to  Jalapa  has  been  abandoned. 
A tramway  extends  from  Esperanza  to  Tehuacan.  A branch  from  Apizaco 
to  Pueblo  and  from  Ometusco  to  Pachuca. 

THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY  from  El  Paso,  Texas,  crossing 
the  Rio  Grande  to  the  old  town  of  Paso  del  Norte,  now  called  the  City  of 


17 


Juarez,  runs  almost  due  south  1,224  miles  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  Passing 
the  cities  of  Chihuahua,  Jimenez,  Gomez  Palacio,  Torreon,  Calera,  Zacatecas, 
Aguas  Calientes,  Lagos,  Leon,  Silao,  Irapuato,  Salamanca,  Celaya,  Queretaro, 
Tula  and  San  Juan  del  Rio  on  the  main  line. 

Connections  of  branches  and  other  lines  are  made  as  follows:  At  Chi- 

huahua with  the  Chihuahua  & Pacific,  and  Kansas  City,  Mexico  & Orient; 
at  Escalon,  Mexican  Northern;  at  Conejos,  Central  Durango;  at  Bermejillo, 
Mexican  International  and  Mapimi  Railroad;  at  Torreon,  Mexican  International 
and  Coahuila  & Pacific;  Parral,  Parral  & Durango;  Jimenez,  Parral  branch; 
Gomez  Palacio,  San  Pedro  branch ; Adrian,  Santa  Barbara  branch ; San 
Bartolo,  Rio  Verde  branch;  Irapuato,  Guadalajara  division;  Silao,  Guanajuato 
branch;  Aguas  Calientes,  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Tampico  division;  Rincon  de 
Romos,  Tepezala  branch;  Pachuca,  Panuco  branch;  Tepenacasco,  Tulancingo 
branch;  Yuricuaro,  Zamora  branch;  Guadalajara,  Zapotlan  division;  La  Vega, 
San  Marcos  branch;  Celaya,  Mexican  National;  San  Luis  Potosi,  Mexican 
National;  Tampico,  Monterey  & Gulf  division;  City  of  Mexico,  with  Cuer- 
navaca division. 

It  is  impossible  to  enumerate  the  points  of  interest;  they  are  in  almost 
every  mile.  The  most  important  are : the  view  of  Chihuahua  on  the  west 

side ; San  Pedro  Bridge ; Bolson  de  Mapimi  on  the  east  side ; approach  to 
and  passing  of  Zacatecas  and  Guadalupe,  seen  from  the  east  windows ; Bar- 
ranca de  La  Encarnacion ; approach  to  Lagos  and  Leon ; Irapuato  for  straw- 
berries and  Celaya  for  dulces,  both  every  day  in  the  year;  Queretaro  for 
opals;  and  just  south  of  the  city  the  road  passes  under  the  great  stone 
aqueduct  of  the  city’s  water  supply  and  into  a fine  valley,  and  afterwards  to  the 
Plain  of  the  Cazadero  to  Lena,  the  point  of  highest  altitude,  8,140  feet.  At 
Tula  are  the  ruins  of  Toltec  temples;  the  road,  continuing,  runs  through  a 
beautiful  valley  to  the  great  Nochistongo  Canal,  seen  on  the  west  side.  From 
Huehuetoca  may  be  obtained  the  first  view  of  the  great  volcanoes  of  Popo- 
catepetl and  Ixtaccihuatl,  and  the  plain,  valley  and  City  of  Mexico. 

The  scenery  on  the  line  from  San  Luis  Potosi  to  Tampico  is  unsurpassed 
in  Mexico,  and  roads  to  Guadalajara  and  Guanajuato  are  rich  in  scenic  beauty. 

THE  CUERNAVACA  DIVISION  extends  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to 
Cuernavaca,  Puente  de  Ixtla,  Iguala,  and  the  Rio  Balsas,  with  an  ultimate 
destination  on  the  Pacific  coast  at  Acapulco.  The  road  crosses  the  broad  plain 
of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  passing  historic  points,  Molino  del  Rey,  Chapultepec, 
Padierna  and  Contreras.  The  scenic  beauty  of  the  line,  as  it  passes  up  the 
hills  on  the  southern  border  of  the  plain,  is  magnificent,  and  the  views  south- 
ward in  the  State  of  Morelos  and  beyond  are  grandly  beautiful. 

THE  MEXICAN  INTERNATIONAL 
RAILROAD  enters  the  Republic  of  Mexico 
at  the  City  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  crossing  the  Rio 
Grande  from  Eagle  Pass,  Texas,  and  runs 
383  miles  westward  to  its  junction  with  the 
Central  Railway  at  Tor- 
reon. Connection  is  made 
at  Reata  for  Monterey.  The 
principal  cities  and  towns 
are  Monclova,  Jaral  and 
Paila ; near  the  latter 
the  famous  vineyards 
Parras.  The  road  sk 
the  southern  border  of 
Bolson  de  Mapimi,  and 


18 


along  the  line  are  fine  views  of  mountain  scenery,  making  the  ride  an  interest- 
ing one. 

After  Torreon  the  road  enters  the  San  Juan  Valley  and  extends,  south- 
westerly, 157  miles  across  the  plains,  over  a fine  roadway  to  the  beautiful  city 
of  Durango. 

There  are  branch  lines  at  Sabinas  for  Hondo;  at  Pedricena  for  Velardefia; 
at  Torreon  for  Tlalmalilo;  at  Durango  for  Guanacevi ; at  Horizonte  for 
Bermejillo;  at  Monclova  for  Cuartro  Cienegas ; at  Jaral  for  Parras;  at 
Hornos  for  San  Pedro ; and  at  Matamoros  for  Zaragoza. 

THE  INTEROCEANIC  RAILROAD  has  its  main  line  from  the  City  of 
Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz.  On  the  eastern  division  the  principal  points  of  interest 
are  Texcoco,  Irolo,  San  Martin,  Puebla,  Perote,  Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz.  On 
the  western  division  are  La  Compania,  Tlalmanalco,  Amecameca,  Nepantla, 
Cuautla,  Yautepec  and  Puente  de  Ixtla.  The  scenery  is  pleasing  beyond  de- 
scription ; the  great  volcanoes  are  in  full  view  for  many  miles ; in  fact, 
scarcely  out  of  sight  during  the  entire  journey.  Leaving  Mexico,  the  road 
passes  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Texcoco,  seen  from  the  east  windows,  while 
Lake  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo  can  be  seen  from  the  other  side.  At  Los  Reyes 
is  the  junction  of  the  east  and  west  lines.  On  the  east  line  the  points  of 
interest  are  the  hacienda  of  General  Gonzales — Texcoco — Molino  de  Flores — 
the  pulque  Plains  of  Apam,  Puebla,  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  Volcano  of  Orizaba, 
Perote  and  beautiful  Jalapa. 

From  Los  Arcos  on  the  main  line  five  miles  west  of  Puebla,  the  Matamoros 
branch  leads  off  in  a southwesterly  direction,  extending  into  a rich  sugar 
district.  From  Virreyes  a branch  extends  northward  to  San  Juan,  and  another 
to  Teziutlan  on  the  north  and  San  Marcos  on  the  south  of  the  main  line. 

THE  NATIONAL  RAILROAD  OF  MEXICO  has  its  northern  terminus 
at  Laredo,  Texas,  Nuevo  Laredo  being  the  city  in  Mexico  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The  line  runs  in  a southwesterly  direction,  840  miles, 
to  the  City  of  Mexico,  passing  the  cities  of  Monterey,  Saltillo,  Catorce,  San 
Luis  Potosi,  San  Miguel  de  Allende,  Queretaro  and  San  Juan  del  Rio  on  the 
main  line,  with  Celaya,  Salvatierra,  Acambaro,  Maravatio  and  Toluca  on  the 
old  line. 

At  Monterey  the  road  crosses  the  Monterey  & Gulf  division  of  the  Mexican 
Central.  At  Vanegas  connection  is  made  with  the  Vanegas,  Matehuala  & Rio 
Verde  Railroad.  At  San  Luis  Potosi  is  the  crossing  of  the  Tampico  division, 
and  at  Celaya  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican  Central.  Acambaro  is  the  junc- 
tion for  Morelia,  Patzeuaro  and  Uruapam.  At  Maravatio  connection  is  made 
with  the  Michoacan  & Pacific.  At  Rincon  is  the  junction  for  S.  L.  de  la  Paz; 
at  Saltillo  with  the  Coahuila  & Pacific  and  Coahuila  & Zacatecas;  at  Toluca 
with  minor  branches. 

All  roads  lead  to  the  capital,  and  all  have  their  points  of  interest.  These 
are  not  lacking  on  the  National,  and  daylight  schedules  are  to  be  chosen 
whenever  it  is  possible.  To  be  especially  noted  are  the  following:  the  beautiful 
Monterey  Valley,  the  City,  Saddle  Mountain,  Mitre  Mountain,  Bishop’s  Palace, 
on  the  east  side ; the  ride  through  the  canons  to  Saltillo ; on  the  east  side  see 
the  mountain  peak  with  a hole  in  the  top,  as  if  made  with  a monster  cannon 
shot;  Hacienda  Ramos  Arispe  and  approach  to  Saltillo;  battlefield  of  Buena 
Vista,  just  south  of  Saltillo;  Catorce,  station  for  the  great  mining  town  of 
the  same  name;  Bocas,  with  its  beautiful  hacienda  (on  the  east  side)  and 
village;  San  Luis  Potosi,  on  the  west  side;  Dolores  Hidalgo,  once  the  home 
of  the  patriot  priest;  San  Miguel  de  Allende,  the  city  on  the  hill,  seen  from 
the  east  windows;  the  canon  and  valley  of  the  Laja;  the  cotton  mills  at 


19 


Soria;  canon  near  Maravatio ; canon  of  the  Zopilote,  south  of  Solis,  where 
is  shown  the  rock  of  El  Salto  de  Juan  Medina,  where  the  famous  bandit 
leaped  his  horse  from  the  top  to  the  chasm  below,  rather  than  be  captured; 
Zirizicuaro,  on  the  east  side;  valley  and  city  of  Toluca;  ascent  of  the  Sierra 
Madres  to  a point  10,000  feet  above  the  sea;  passing  around  the  village  of 
Ocoyocac,  and  a few  minutes  later  a thousand  feet  above  it ; grand  view  of 
valley  and  volcano  of  Toluca;  mill  and  aqueduct  of  Jajalpa;  battlefield  of 
Las  Cruces ; grand  view  from  the  mountain  top  after  passing  La  Cima ; the 
plain  and  valley  of  Mexico ; the  City  and  the  volcanoes  on  the  east  side ; 
descent  of  the  eastern  slope;  the  “Moonstone”  near  Rio  Hondo;  Naucaulpan; 
Los  Remedios  on  the  west;  Chapultepec  on  the  east;  old  aqueduct  on  the 
east  side.  These  are  on  the  main  line.  On  the  western  division  the  attractions 
are  no  less,  as  it  passes  through  the  beautiful  lake  region  of  Mexico,  Lake 
Cuitseo  and  Lake  Patzcuaro,  and  to  the  cities  of  Morelia,  Patzcuaro  and 
Uruapan. 

THE  MEXICAN  NORTHERN  RAILWAY  extends  from  Escalon  to 
Sierra  Mojada,  78  miles. 

THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHERN  RAILROAD  runs  from  Puebla  to  Oaxaca, 
228  miles,  passing  through  the  important  towns  of  Tecomavaca  and  Tehuacan, 
with  an  ultimate  destination  at  a Pacific  port  on  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec. 

A tram  line  leads  from  Tehuacan  to  Esperanza  on  the  Mexican  Railway. 
The  road  has  a splendid  passenger  equipment,  and  runs  through  a county 
wildly  picturesque,  where  primitive  Mexico  may  be  seen  as  nowhere  else. 
Convenient  schedules  are  operated  to  and  from  Puebla,  connecting  with  those 
of  the  lines  from  the  capital.  The  line  runs  at  the  bottom  of  the  canons, 
instead  of  on  the  cliffs,  as  in  the  case  of  almost  all  the  other  lines,  presenting 
views  unlike  those  seen  anywhere  else.  Just  below  the  beautiful  city  of  Oaxaca, 
reached  by  a broad,  level  carriage  road,  are  the  big  trees  of  Santa  Maria  del 
Tule  and  the  wonderful  Ruins  of  Mitla.  Connections  at  Tlacotepec  with 
Tlacotepec  & Huajuapam  de  Leon  Railroad;  at  Oaxaca  with  Oaxaca  & Ejutla 
Railroad. 

THE  HIDALGO  RAILROAD  runs  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Pachuca 
and  the  mining  cities  beyond ; the  road  runs  through  a country  rich  in  scenic 
beauty.  There  is  a branch  line  to  Irolo. 

THE  MONTEREY  & GULF  DIVISION  OF  THE  MEXICAN  CEN- 
TRAL Rx\ILROAD  extends  from  Tampico,  on  the  Gulf,  387  miles  to  Trevino, 
on  the  International  Railroad,  crossing  the  Mexican  National  Railroad  at 
Monterey,  passing  the  cities  of  Victoria,  Linares,  Montemorelos  and  numerous 
smaller  towns  and  villages  of  more  or  less  interest  to  the  traveler,  in  the  newly 
opened  country  through  which  the  line  passes. 

The  constantly  changing  scenes  in  the  mountains  and  valleys  from  Trevino 
and  Monterey  to  Linares  and  Victoria  make  the  journey  over  the  Monterey 
& Mexican  Gulf  road  a pleasing  one,  to  which  are  added  those  of  tropical 
beauty  on  the  southern  division  of  the  line  south  of  Victoria  and  all  the  way 
down  to  Tampico. 

THE  SONORA  RAILROAD  runs  from  Benson,  in  Arizona  Territory,  to 
Guaymas,  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  353  miles,  passing  Hermosillo,  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  Sonora,  and  through  a country  intensely  interesting  and  pos- 
sessing a wealth  of  scenery.  The  harbor  of  Guaymas  is  one  of  the  finest  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  land-locked  by  high  mountains  that  make  it  a very  beautiful  as 
well  as  a very  safe  one. 

THE  PARRAL  & DURANGO  RAILWAY  runs  from  Parral  to  Durango 
through  a rich  timber  and  mining  district. 


20 


THE  COAHUILA  & PACIFIC  RAILWAY  from  Saltillo  on  the  National 
runs  westward  to  a connection  with  the  Central  and  International  at  Torreon, 
passing  the  city  and  wine  district  of  Parras. 

THE  VERA  CRUZ  & PACIFIC  RAILWAY  has  its  northern  and  eastern 
termini  at  Cordoba  and  Vera  Cruz,  connecting  at  the  south  with  the  Tehuan- 
tepec Railway  at  Santa  Lucrecia.  The  line  traverses  a rich  and  very  interesting 
tropic  country,  where  rubber,  tobacco,  sugar,  coffee  and  all  the  tropic  fruits 
are  grown  in  profusion.  This  is  the  shortest  transcontinental  line  north  of 
Tehuantepec. 

THE  OCCIDENTAL  RAILWAY  runs  from  Altata  on  the  Pacific  coast 
to  Culiacan,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Sinaloa. 

THE  VERA  CRUZ  RAILWAYS  run  from  Vera  Cruz  down  the  coast  to 
Alvarado. 

THE  COHUILA  & ZACATECAS  runs  from  Saltillo  on  the  National  to 
Conception  del  Oro,  with  an  ultimate  destination  at  Zacatecas. 

THE  CHIHUAHUA  & PACIFIC  from  Chihuahua  has  the  Pacific  coast 
for  its  final  destination. 

THE  JALAPA  & CORDOBA  RAILWAY  will  in  the  near  future  connect 
those  two  cities.  The  line  is  through  a tropical  country,  and  the  ride  over 
it  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  Mexico,  through  coffee  and  orange  groves, 
pineapple  and  banana  gardens. 

THE  XICO  & SAN  RAFAEL  RAILWAY  east  from  the  City  of  Mexico 
is  to  extend  to  Puebla. 

THE  OAXACA  & EJUTLA  RAILWAY  from  Oaxaca  southward  trav- 
erses a rich  mining  district. 

THE  NACOZARI  RAILWAY  runs  south  from  Agua  Prieta  in  the  State 
)f  Sonora  to  Cos. 

THE  MEXICAN  NATIONAL  CONSTRUCTION  COMPANY’S  RAIL- 
VAY  has  a line  from  Manzanillo  on  the  Pacific  coast  to  Colima,  the  capital 
jf  the  state  of  that  name ; also  a line  from  Zacatecas  to  Guadalupe  and 
Troncoso. 

THE  MERIDA  & VALLADOLID,  MERIDA  & PROGRESO,  MERIDA 
& PETO  AND  MERIDA  & IZAMAL  railways  in  Yucatan  form  a system 
reaching  from  Progreso  to  the  interior  of  the  state. 

THE  UNITED  RAILWAYS  OF  YUCATAN  run  from  Merida  south- 
westerly through  Yucatan  to  Campeche,  with  branch  lines  to  interior  points. 

THE  TLACOTEPEC  & HUAJUAPAM  RAILWAY  runs  from  Tlacotepec 
on  the  Mexican  Southern  southward  through  a fertile  agricultural  and  rich 
mining  country. 

The  minor  railways  are  Consolidated  Copper,  from  Naco  on  the  El  Paso 
& Southwestern  Railway;  Cordoba  & Huatusco,  from  Cordoba,  on  the  Mexican 
Railway;  Cardenas  & Grijalva;  Monte  Alto  Railway,  from  Tlaenepantla,  on 
the  National  and  Central;  F.  C.  del  Desague  del  Valle  de  Mexico,  from 
Grand  Canal,  on  the  Mexican  Railway;  Ixtlahuaca,  Mahi  & Nijini  Railway, 
from  Ixtlahuaca,  on  the  National;  Torres  & Prietas  Railway,  from  Torres,  on 
the  Sonora  Railway;  Potosi  & Rio  Verde  Railway,  from  San  Luis  Potosi ; 
Mexican  Mineral  Railway,  from  Monterey;  El  Oro  Railway,  from  Tulte- 
nango,  on  the  National;  Chihuahua  Mineral  Railway,  from  Chihuahua; 
Oblatos  Railway,  from  Guadalajara;  Salamanca  & Jaral  Railway,  from  Sala- 
manca, on  the  Central;;  Toluca  & Tenango  Railway,  from  Toluca;  Toluca  & 
San  Juan,  from  Toluca;  Cazadero  & Solis,  from  Cazadero,  on  the  Central; 
San  Gregorio  Railway,  from  Marfil,  on  the  Central ; Mapimi  Railway,  from 
Bermijillo,  on  the  Central;  Chalchicomula  Railway,  from  San  Andres,  on 


21 


the  Mexican  Railway ; 

Juanacatlan  Railway, 
from  El  Castillo,  on  the 
Central ; Durango  Cen- 
tral, from  Conejos,  on  the 
Central.  The  National 
Railway  has  a detached 
division  from  Matamoros, 
on  the  Gulf,  northward  lo 
San  Miguel 

THE  VANEGAS,  CE- 
DRAL  & MATEHUALA 
RAILROAD  runs  from 
Vanegas  to  Cedral,  Matehuala  and  Rio  Verde. 

From  Matehuala  the  Provenir  de  Matehuala  Railroad  runs  to  El  Pelar. 

THE  RIO  GRANDE,  SIERRA  MADRE  & PACIFIC  RAILWAY  runs 
southwesterly  from  Ciudad  Juarez,  opposite  El  Paso,  155  miles  to  Terranza, 
with  an  ultimate  destination  on  the  Pacific  Coast  or  that  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

THE  TEHUANTEPEC  RAILWAY. — The  completion  of  the  Tehuan- 
tepec Railway  makes  the  shortest  possible  transcontinental  line  north  of  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama.  The  road  runs  from  the  fine  harbor  of  Coatzacoalcos, 
on  the  Gulf,  to  that  of  Salina  Cruz,  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Both  harbors  are 
amply  protected  and  possessed  of  sufficient  water  f )r  all  practical  purposes. 
The  harbor  of  Coatzacoalcos  was  discovered  by  a band  of  Cortez’  explorers. 
As  there  was  no  safe  road  where  his  ships  could  ride  off  the  coast  of  Vera 
Cruz,  he  sent  an  exploring  party  down  the  coast,  and  Coatzacoalcos  was  the 
harbor  they  looked  for.  Tehuantepec  is  a few  miles  inland  from  Salina  Cruz  on 
the  Pacific  Coast.  The  importance  of  this  railroad  is  realized  in  the  immense 
sailing  distance  saved  on  both  sides,  which  is  from  1,500  to  2,000  miles  on 
the  Gulf,  and  about  the  same  on  the  Pacific.  The  Tehuantepec  Railway  is 
about  190  miles  long,  while  the  Panama  road  is  only  forty  miles,  but  this 
difference  does  not  count ; when  freight  or  passengers  have  to  be  transferred 
it  is  as  well  to  travel  190  miles  as  forty,  when  the  saving  of  sea  voyage  is 
considered. 

Steamer  Lines — The  principal  steamer  lines  to  and  from  Mexican  ports 
are  the  Ward  Line,  New  York  & Cuba  Mail  Steamship  Company,  with  weekly 
steamers  between  Vera  Cruz,  Tampico,  New  York  and  Havana,  touching  at 
Progreso,  Campeche,  Tuxpan  and  Frontera. 

Other  American  and  the  European  steamers  make  the  same  ports.  The  At- 
lantic & Mexican  Gulf  Steamship  Company  operates  a line  between  Tampico, 
Vera  Cruz  and  the  Gulf  and  Atlantic  ports  of  the  United  States. 

The  Pacific  Mail  steamers,  between  San  Francisco  and  Panama,  touch  at 
Acapulco,  Mazatlan,  Manzanillo  and  San  Bias. 

Inland  navigation  in  Mexico  is  at  present  very  limited ; small  steamers  are 
run  on  Lakes  Patzcuaro  and  Chapala,  and  on  some  of  the  smaller  rivers  of 
the  States  of  Tabasco,  Yucatan  and  Vera  Cruz,  and  up  the  coast  to  the 
ports  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Tampico,  touching  intermediate  ports.  The  Ward 
Line  and  a Mexican  company  have  coastwise  steamers  up  and  down  the 
Coast  from  Tampico  down  to  Vera  Cruz,  Coatzacoalcos,  Frontera,  Campeche 
and  Progreso.  The  Rio  Panuco  and  Tamesi  River  are  also  navigated  a short 
distance  into  the  interior.  But  every  one  of  these  lines  have  their  attractions 
th^t  do  not  obtain  on  any  other  waters  of  the  western  world, 


FOR  MOUNTAIN  TRAVEL. 


HERNANDO  CORTEZ— FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  PAINTING  IN  THE  HOSPITAL  DE  ^ESUS 
—CITY  OF  MEXICO, 


Historical. 


What  might  have  served  to  enlighten  upon  the  history  of  the  earlier 
races  that  inhabited  the  land,  was  destroyed  by  the  fanatics,  who  saw  in  the 
temples  they  found,  evidences  of  a civilization  almost  superior  to  their  own, 
and  of  a religion  so  nearly  identical,  that  it  seemed  only  a creed  of  the  one 
they  professed;  the  jealous  bigotry  that  threw  down  the  graven  stones,  and 
tore  the  pictured  parchments  to  fragments,  wiped  out  volumes  of  history 
and  placed  bloody  chapters  in  their  stead.  The  bigots  pulled  down  that 
which  in  their  day  and  generation  they  could  not  build  up,  placed  a period 
and  a finis  to  the  story  of  the  races  that  were  there  for  centuries  before  they 
brought  their  bloody  banners  to  these  shores,  till  there  is  only  here  and 
there  a sculptured  wall,  with  mosaics  more  intricate  than  any  builded  since, 
or  massive  monoliths  set  up  in  pillars  to  grace  a corridor  of  grander  pro- 
portions than  their  own,  and,  if  they  could,  they  would  have  destroyed  all 
of  these  works  of  a people  who  had  passed  away  under  the  assaults  of  bar- 
barism, at  a period  prior  to  all  traditions,  leaving  no  name,  and  no  trace  of 
their  existence  save  these  monuments,  which,  neglected  and  forgotten  by 
their  successors,  have  become  the  riddle  of  later  generations. 

There  was  a survival  of  the  fittest.  The  bigot  and  fanatic  passed  away 
in  the  fire  of  his  own  kindling.  The  good  men  and  true  saved,  as  brands 
from  the  burning,  some  scrolls  of  picture  writings,  and  from  destruction 
saved  the  marvelous  carvings,  that  hung  up  for  ornaments,  and  set  as  treas- 
ures within  our  modern  walls,  tell  us  of  a departed  civilization,  but  with 
only  a drop  of  the  knowledge  of  it. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  from  the  wreck  of  this  primitive  civilization  some 
of  the  arts  peculiar  to  it  were  not  saved.  The  methods  by  which  its  as- 
tronomers succeeded  in  determining  the  apparent  motion  of  the  sun  and 
the  length  of  the  solar  year;  of  working  and  polishing  crystal  and  other 
stones;  of  manufacturing  delicate  articles  of  use  and  ornament  of  obsidian;  of 
casting  figures  of  gold  and  of  silver  in  one  piece;  of  making  filigree  orna- 
ments without  Soldering;  of  applying  to  pottery  even  and  transparent  glazes, 
such  as  are  used  by  makers  of  fine  ware,  with  colors  that,  after  remaining 

23 


24 


for  centuries  under  ground,  still  are  fresh  and  brilliant;  of  weaving  extremely 
delicate  tissues  of  cotton  mixed  with  silky  feathers  and  rabbit’s  fur. 

The  earliest  data  of  record  is  in  the  coming  of  the  Toltecs  to  Anahuac, 
A.  D.  648,  and  the  movements  of  the  various  tribes  in  the  succeeding  cen- 
turies till  the  foundation  of  Tenochtitlan  in  1325,  nearly  200  years  before 
its  destroyers  came.  But  these  dates  are  determined  by  tradition  only,  on 
which  no  two  of  the  ancient  chroniclers  agree,  but  their  differences  are  not 
material. 

The  picture  writings,  the  only  and  very  meager  record  extant,  are  for 
the  most  part  on  a cloth  made  of  a fibre  of  the  maguey.  Most  of  these 
were  destroyed  by  order  of  the  over  zealous  of  the  clergy.  A few  of  these 
pictures  remain,  some  in  the  National  Museurns,  some  in  private  collections 
and  some  in  the  libraries  of  Europe. 

Historians  agree  as  to  these  dates: 

The  Toltecs  appeared  in  648  A.  D. 

The  Chichimecs  in  1170  A.  D. 

The  Nahuals  in  1178  A.  D. 

The  Aztecs  or  Acolhuans  in  1196  A.  D. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs  that  are  so  often  spoken 

of  in  the  same  breath  were  600  years  apart. 

This  is  the  record  of  the  nations;  the  names  of  the  rulers  before  the  12th 

century  are  not  known;  the  first  Chichimec  king  named  in  that  century  was 

Xolotl,  then  through  the  13th  and  14th  centuries  in  this  order  came  Nopalt- 
zin,  Quinatzin  and  Tecotlalla;  in  1406  Ixlilochtli  commenced  his  reign;  he 
was  followed  by  Netzahualcoyotl  in  1426,  and  he  in  turn  by  Nezahualpilli  in 
1470.  Cacamatzin  began  his  reign  in  1516,  was  succeeded  by  Cuicuitzcatzin  in 
1520  and  he  by  Coanacotzin  in  1520. 

Of  the  Aztecs  little  is  known  except  that  their  country  was  known  as 
Anahuac,  and  the  capital  Tenochtitlan,  where  the  valley  and  City  of  Mexico 
is  now. 

The  empire  ^of  the  Montezumas  was  established  about  the  year  1460  and 
continued  till  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  in  1521,  when  Montezuma  II  was 
killed  by  the  arrows  of  his  own  warriors  when  Cortez  forced  him  to  go  upon 
the  portico  of  his  palace  to  quell  if  possible  the  rioting  Aztecs,  who  under 
Cuautemoc  were  attempting  his  rescue.  Cuautemoc,  the  nephew  of  Monte- 
zuma, became  his  successor  and  was  the  last  of  his  line,  the  last  of  the 
Aztec  kings. 

The  Conquest — The  name  of  Cortez  is  synonymous  with  the  conquest, 
but  it  was  not  his  privilege  to  be  the  first  of  his  race  to  reach  the  shores  of 
the  land  of  his  brilliant  adventures. 

Francisco  Hernandez  de  Cordoba  discovered  the  coast  of  Yucatan,  March 
4,  1517.  A year  later  another  expedition  was  sent  out  by  Velasquez,  the 
governor  of  Cuba,  under  command  of  Don  Juan  de  Grijalva,  who  came  to 
the  shores  of  Mexico  and  landed  on  the  island  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  oppo- 
site the  present  city  of  Vera  Cruz.  A good  report  of  the  land  was  sent  back 
to  Cuba  by  one  of  the  captains,  Pedro  de  Alvarado,  later  a famous  officer 
under  Cortez,  and  still  another  fleet,  larger  than  the  others,  was  fitted  out 
and  placed  under  the  command  of  Hernando  Cortez.  Before  the  fleet  was 
ready  to  sail  the  governor  determined  to  remove  Cortez  from  command, 
which  coming  to  the  ears  of  the  Conqueror,  he  prepared  his  ships  for  sea, 
and  sailed  before  his  removal  could  be  accomplished,  on  the  night  of  No- 
vember 18,  1518,  from  Santiago  de  Cuba,  touching  at  several  other  ports  on 
the  island  for  supplies.  Cortez  finally  sailed  for  Mexico  February  18,  1519- 
The  fleet  consisted  gf  eleven  ships,  carrying  no  sailors,  sixteen  cavalry  men 


25 


MEETING  OF  CORTEZ  AND  MONTI 


26 


with  their  horses,  553  foot  soldiers,  200  Cuban  Indians,  a battery  of  ten  small 
cannon  and  four  falconets;  with  this  army  went  two  Indians  as  interpreters, 
captured  by  Cordoba  in  Yucatan  two  years  previous. 

On  his  ship  Cortez  raised  the  standard  of  the  conquest,  a black  ensign, 
emblazoned  with  the  arms  of  Charles  V.,  bearing  the  crimson  cross  borne 
in  clouds,  with  the  motto:  Amici,  sequam  crucem  et  si  nos  fidem  habemus 

vere  in  hoc  signo  vincemus — “Friends,  let  us  follow  the  cross,  and  if  we 
have  faith  we  will  conquer.”  Under  this  flag  and  the  patronage  of  St.  Peter, 
Cortez  sailed.  On  the  island  of  Cozumel  a shipwrecked  Spaniard,  Geronimo 
de  Aguilar,  was  picked  up;  having  been  there  for  nearly  nine  years  he  had 
acquired  the  language  and  was  a valuable  acquisition  as  an  interpreter. 

The  first  landing  was  on  March  20,  1519,  near  the  Rio  Tabasco,  where 
there  was  fighting  with  the  natives  and  a number  made  captives,  among 


SACRIFICE  ON  THE  TEOCALI. 

whom  was  La  Marina,  a native  of  Jalisco,  sold  here  as  a slave.  She  under- 
stood the  language  of  the  uplands  as  well  as  the  coast,  and  thus,  through 
her  and  Aguilar,  Cortez  could  communicate  with  the  people.  La  Marina 
soon  learned  the  Spanish  language  and  became  the  interpreter,  ally  and  wife 
of  the  conqueror,  and  bore  him  a son,  who  was  called  Martin,  as  was  an- 
other son  by  his  Spanish  wife. 

Leaving  the  River  Grijalva,  Cortez  sailed  up  the  coast  and  dropped  his 
anchors  off  Vera  Cruz,  April  21,  1519.  Efforts  to  secure  a peaceful  recep- 
tion on  the  part  of  the  natives  were  unavailing.  Discontent  arose  among  the 
Spaniards.  Cortez,  acting  with  his  customary  decision,  burned  his  ships,  and 
on  the  i6th  of  August  began  his  march  toward  the  capital  of  the  Aztecs. 

With  little  incident  or  opposition  the  brave  band  of  adventurers  reached 
the  table-lands  and  after  a fight  with  the  Tlaxcalans  secured  them  as  their 


27 


allies.  At  Cholula,  Cortez  put  down  a conspiracy  reported  to  him  by  La 

Marina,  which  was  attended  by  a great  massacre  of  the  Cholulans.  The  na- 
tives were  completely  terrorized  by  the  cannon  and  fire-arms,  and  the  horse 

and  rider  of  the  cavalry  were  regarded  as  almost  a god,  or  at  least  one 

being,  as  they  had  never  seen  a horse,  so  the  invaders  proceeded  on  their 
march,  unopposed,  passed  over  the  causeways  of  Tenochtitlan,  and  entered 

the  present  City  of  Mex- 
ico, Tuesday,  November 
8,  1519.  The  Aztec  King, 
Montezuma,  came  out  to 
meet  Cortez,  tradition 
says,  on  the  site  of  the 
present  Hospital  de  Jesus, 
founded  by  him  in  com- 
memoration of  this  meet- 
ing. The  aggressions 
of  the  Spaniards,  and 
their  oppression  of 
the  Mexicans  soon 
turned  their  apparent 
friendship  to  hatred, 
and  they  drove  them 
out  of  the  City  over 
the  Tlacopan  cause- 
way, now  called  Ta- 
cuba,  on  the  night  of 
July  I,  1520,  called  la 
710 che  triste^  the  Dis- 
mal Night;  retreat- 
ing, Cortez  fought 
another  battle  at 
Otumba  on  the  8th 
of  July,  where  the 
Tlaxacalans  came  to 
his  rescue  and  turned 
the  tide  of  war  in  his 
favor,  and  he  halted 
in  the  city  of  these 
allies.  While  at  Tlax- 
cala  reinforcements 
came  from  Cuba; 
powder  for  the  can- 
non and  small  arms 
was  made  from  the 
TREE  OF  LA  NOCHE  TRiSTE.  sulphur  taken  from 

the  crater  of  Popocatepetl.  The  bergantines,  small  flat-bottomed  boats, 
were  built,  to  be  put  together  and  launched  on  Lake  Texcoco,  when  Cortez 
returned  and  commenced  the  siege  of  Tenochtitlan,  December  31,  1520,  oper- 
ating from  the  town  of  Texcoco  with  a force  of  forty  cavalry,  eighty  arque- 
busiers  and  cross-bowmen,  450  infantry,  armed  with  lances  and  swords,  and 
a battery  of  nine  small  cannon.  This  was  the  Spanish  contingent.  The  na- 
tive allies  numbered  about  125,000. 

Montezuma  died  on  the  30th  of  June,  the  day  before  the  Noche  Triste, 
and  his  nephew,  Guatemotzin,  called  also  Cuautemoc,  who,  it  is  said,  shot 
the  arrow  that  caused  Montezuma’s  death,  was  placed  in  command.  The 


28 


siep^e  continued  till  the  native  garrison  was  starved  into  submission,  and 
the  Spaniards  made  their  second  and  triumphal  entry  into  the  City  of  Mexico, 
August  13,  1521;  but  they  found  a different  city  than  when  the  meek  Monte- 
zuma met  them  at  the  city  gates.  Almost  all  the  treasure  had  been  de- 
stroyed or  concealed,  and  to  extort  the  secret  from  Guatemotzin,  Cortez 
cruelly  put  him  to  torture,  but  without  avail;  the  wealth  of  jewels,  gold  and 
precious  stones  had  been  thrown  into  the  lake. 

Cortez  was  born  in  the  town  of  Medellin,  Province  of  Estramadura,  in 
1485,  the  son  of  Don  Martin  Cortez  de  Monroy.  He  came  to  Cuba  before 
he  was  twenty  years  of  age,  and  later  married  Doha  Catalina  Juarez  under 
compulsion,  whom  he  murdered  in  the  garden  at  Coyoacan.  During  the 


DEATH  OF  MONTEZUMA. 

conquest  La  Marina  took  the  place  of  Doha  Catalina,  by  whom  no  children 

were  borne.  A son,  Don  Martin,  was  born  of  La  Marina,  and  three  daugh- 

ters by  other  Indian  women  of  rank. 

After  the  conquest  Cortez  married  Doha  Juana  de  Zuhiga,  who  was  called 
his  second  wife,  and  by  whom  he  had  three  daughters  and  one  son,  also  named 
Martin,  who  was  heir  to  the  conqueror’s  titles  and  estates.  There  was  a 
son,  Don  Luis,  by  Antonia  Hermosillo. 

The  two  sons,  both  named  Martin,  entered  into  a conspiracy  to  secure 
the  rulership  of  the  province  to  Don  Martin,  the  son  of  Doha  Juana.  For 

this  his  estates  were  confiscated,  but  finally  restored  to  him.  He  married 

and  left  a son,  Hernando,  the  third  Marques  of  the  Valley,  whose  son,  Do:i 
Pedro,  the  fourth  Marques,  lived  on  the  estates  until  1629,  dying  in  that 
year  without  male  issue.  Through  the  daughters  the  property  passed  to 
the  Neapolitan  Dukes  of  Monteleone,  which  family  still  controls  the  vast 
estates, 


29 


Hernando  Cortez,  the  Conqueror,  died  in  the  town  of  Castelleja  de  la  Questa, 
in  Spain,  December  2,  1547. 

The  Viceroys — Mexico  was  under  the  dominion  of  Spain  for  300  years, 
during  which  time  there  were  five  Governors,  two  Audencias  and  sixty-two 
Viceroys.  Cortez  was  the  first  Governor;  the  others  were  military  command- 
ers of  the  time.  The  Audencias,  composed  of  three  to  five  members  each, 
were  torn  by  envies  and  jealousies  and  proved  entirely  unsatisfactory,  so  the 
government  by  the  Viceroys  was  resorted  to.  The  most  prominent,  with  the 
important  incidents  of  their  administrations,  are  recorded  here.  Don  An- 
tonio de  Mendoza  was  the  first  Viceroy,  continuing  in  office  from  1535  to 
1550.  He  brought  the  first  printing  press  and  printed  the  first  book  in  Mexico. 
He  extended  the  domain  to  Morelia  and  Guadalajara,  and  opened  the  mines 
of  Zacatecas  and  Guanajuato,  and  during  his  administration  the  first  money 
of  Mexico  was  coined. 

Don  Luis  de  Velasco,  the  second  Viceroy,  held  the  office  from  1550  to 
1564,  and  extended  the  territory  of  the  province  northward  to  Durango.  He 
freed  150,000  Indians  held  as  slaves  by  the  Spaniards,  and  founded  many  im- 
portant institutions,  among  them  Hospital  Real  and  the  University.  During 
his  time  the  patio  process  for  the  reduction  of  silver  was  invented  at  Pachuca 
by  Bartolome  de  Medina.  He  built  the  dyke  of  San  Lazaro  after  the  first 
inundation  of  the  city  in  1552.  Loved  and  lamented,  he  died  in  the  City  of 
Mexico,  July  31,  1564. 

Don  Martin  Enriquez  de  Almanza  was  the  fourth  Viceroy,  from  1568  to 
1580.  The  first  stone  of  the  Cathedral  was  laid  during  his  reign  and  the  In- 
quisition established. 

The  seventh  Viceroy  was  Don  Alonzo  Manrique  de  Zuniga,  1585  to  1590; 
he  was  instrumental  in  extending  the  commerce  of  the  country. 

The  eighth  Viceroy  was  Don  Luis  de  Velasco,  son  of  the  second  Viceroy, 
who  established  internal  manufactures  and  commenced  the  extension  of  ter- 
ritory into  New  Mexico  in  the  years  1590  to  1595;  after  an  absence  as  Viceroy 
of  Peru  he  was  again  Viceroy  from  1607  to  1611,  during  which  time  the  great 
Tajo  de  Nochistongo  was  begun,  and  the  Alameda  established. 

The  ninth  Viceroy  was  Don  Caspar  de  Zuniga  y Acevedo,  Conde  de  Mon- 
terey, who  ruled  from  1595  to  1603.  He  extended  the  domain  to  California 
and  founded  the  town  of  Monterey,  California,  and  the  one  in  Mexico;  he 
removed  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz  to  its  present  site.  Don  Diego  Carrillo  Men- 
doza, Marques  de  Galves,  was  the  fourteenth  Viceroy,  1621  to  1624,  doing  much 
to  exterminate  the  bandits  that  infested  the  highways  of  Mexico.  For  the 
honor  of  this  Viceroy  the  town  of  Galveston,  Tex.,  was  named.  The  twenty- 
second  Viceroy,  Don  Francisco  Fernandez  de  la  Cueva,  Duque  de  Albur- 
querque,  in  1653-60,  colonized  New  Mexico,  and  founded  the  town  of  Albur- 
^uerque. 

The  worthy  Fray  Payo  de  Rivera  Enriquez  was  the  twenty-seventh  Viceroy, 
and  also  Archbishop  of  Mexico,  from  1673  to  1680.  During  his  reign,  the  cause- 
way and  aqueduct  of  Guadalupe  was  built.  Don  Melchor  Portocarrero  Lazo 
de  la  Vega,  Conde  de  la  Monclova,  twenty-ninth  Viceroy,  1686  to  1688,  built, 
at  his  own  expense,  the  aqueduct  of  Chapultepec,  colonized  the  State  of  Coa- 
huila,  and  founded  the  town  of  Monclova.  Don  Caspar  de  la  Cerdo  Sandoval 
Silva  y Mendoza,  Conde  de  Galve,  was  the  thirtieth  Viceroy,  from  1688  to 
1696,  during  which  the  domain  was  extended  to  include  Texas,  and  under  his 
direction  the  town  of  Pensacola,  Fla.,  was  founded,  in  1692. 

The  thirty-second  Viceroy  was  Don  Jose  Sarmiento  Valladares,  Conde  de 
Moctezuma,  which  title  of  Conde  came  through  his  wife,  a lineal  descendant  of 
Moctezuma  II.  Don  Juan  de  Acuna,  Marques  de  Casafuerte,  was  the  thirty- 


30 


seventh  of  the  line  of  Viceroys.  During  his  reign,  from  1722  to  1734,  the  first 
newspaper,  Gaceta  de  Mexico,  was  published.  Don  Pedro  Cebrian  y Agustin, 
Conde  de  Fuenclara,  was  the  fortieth  Viceroy,  from  1742  to  1746,  during  which 
years  the  State  of  Tamaulipas  was  colonized. 

Don  Joaquin  de  Monserratte,  Marques  de  Cruillas,  forty-fourth  Viceroy, 
established  the  first  regular  army  in  Mexico  between  1760  and  1766,  and  caused 
the  houses  in  the  City  of  Mexico  to  be  numbered.  Don  Carlos  Francisco  de 
Croix,  Marques  de  Croix,  was  forty-fifth  Viceroy,  from  1766  to  I77i-  He 
expelled  the  Jesuits  from  Mexico  and  extended  the  Ala-meda  to  its  present 
dimensions. 

The  forty-sixth  Viceroy  was  Don  Antonio  Maria  de  Bucareli  y Ursua,  from 
1771  to  1779.  Mining  and  minting  was  greatly  increased  during  his  reign,  and 

nearly  $130,000,000 
was  sent  to  Spain. 
He  died  in  Mexico, 
and  is  buried  in  the 
church  at  Guada- 
lupe; a bronze  tab- 
let in  the  floor  of 
the  great  church  of 
Guadalupe  marks 
his  last  resting- 
place.  He  fostered 
the  military,  but 
encouraged  the 
commerce  of  the 
country  till  it 
reached  an  unpre- 
cedented activity. 

TORTURE  OF  CUAUTEMOC.  Besides  other  great 

public  works  he  completed  the  aqeduct  of  Chapultepec  at  his  own  expense. 

Don  Juan  Vicente  de  Guemes  Pacheco  de  Padilla,  Conde  de  Revillagigedo, 
was  the  fifty-second  Viceroy  and  the  great  reformer  of  the  period,  1789-94.  He 
paved  and  sewered  the  city,  executed  bandits,  and  sent  out  exploring  expedi- 
tions, one  of  which  penetrated  Alaska.  He  attended  the  erection  of  public 
works  in  person,  and  was  on  the  alert  day  and  night,  so  that  nothing  escaped 
him.  It  is  said  that  one  night  he  tripped  on  an  uneven  piece  of  pavement,  and 
had  the  workmen  called  from  their  beds  and  told  them  to  have  it  fixed  before 
morning.  On  another  occasion  he  found  a street  that  was  barricaded  by  some 
native  huts.  He  sent  for  an  officer  and  ordered  the  street  opened,  so  he  could 
pass  through  on  his  way  to  mass  next  morning.  To  this  day  the  street  is 
called  Calle  Revillagigedo. 

Don  Miguel  de  la  Grua  Salamanca,  Marques  de  Branciforte,  was  the  fifty- 
third  Viceroy.  During  his  reign,  1794-98,  Florida  was  ceded  to  France — that 
portion  east  of  the  Perdido  River. 

Don  Jose  de  Iturrigaray,  the  fifty-sixth  Viceroy,  1803-8,  for  his  favors  to 
the  native  element  during  the  interregnum  between  Ferdinand  VII.  and 
Joseph  Bonaparte,  was  arrested,  imprisoned  on  the  island  of  San  Juan  de 
Ulua,  and  sent  back  to  Spain.  The  fifty-seventh  Viceroy  was  Don  Pedro  de 
Garibay.  He  executed  the  Licenciado  Verdad,  the  first  martyr  of  Mexican 
independence. 

Garibay  was  succeeded  by  the  then  Archbishop  of  Mexico,  Francisco  Javier 
de  Lizana,  as  fifty-eighth  Viceroy. 


31 


The  Revolution  — The  Viceroys  from  1809  were  beset  in  all  directions  by 
the  revolutionary  spirit  that  was  afire  throughout  the  country.  The  first  con- 
spiracy was  discovered  in  Michoacan  and  promptly  stamped  out.  In  1810  the 
first  decisive  steps  of  the  Revolution  were  taken  by  the  joint  action  of  the 
patriot  priest,  Hidalgo,  in  the  town  of  Dolores,  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  and 
Allende,  Aldama,  together  with  the  officers  of  the  Queen’s  regiment  (then  gar- 
risoned at  San  Miguel),  and  greatly  assisted  by  Dona  Josefa  Ortiz  of  Quere- 


STATUE  OF  CHARLES  IV. 

taro,  who,  under  pretense  of  a literary  society,  was  holding  patriotic  meet- 
ings at  her  house.  These  plans  were  discovered  and  the  patriots  compelled  to 
act  before  they  were  quite  ready.  During  the  night  of  the  i6th  of  September, 
Sunday,  the  comrades  came  to  the  house  of  Hidalgo,  in  Dolores,  and  told 
him  of  the  discovery  of  the  plot.  The  padre  said  they  must  act  at  once;  at 
early  mass  he  told  the  people  that  the  yoke  was  no  longer  Spanish,  but  French, 
and  the  time  for  its  throwing  off  had  come;  his  people  responded  and  he 
set  out  with  Allende  and  his  companions  at  the  head  of  a band  of  300  men 
armed  only  with  clubs  and  knives.  As  they  passed  the  Santuario  de  Atotonilco, 


32 


Hidalgo  took  from  the  altar  the  banner  of  Guadalupe,  and  it  became  the  stand- 
ard of  Independence.  At  San  Miguel,  the  regiment  of  Allende  joined  the  in- 
surgents, the  march  to  Guanajuato  was  commenced,  the  people  of  the  country 
flocked  to  his  aid,  and  he  came  to  the  town  with  a heavy  force;  the  Alhondiga 
de  Granaditas  was  taken,  and  the  city  occupied  by  the  patriots. 

The  march  thence  was  toward  Morelia,  then  called  Valladolid,  and  thence 
towards  the  capital,  his  forces  being  constantly  augmented,  and  at  Las  Cruces, 
almost  within  sight  of  the  city,  October  30,  1810,  met  the  Royal  troops  and 
drove  them  back,  but  for  some  reason  Hidalgo  himself  decided  to  retreat,  and 
retired  towards  the  interior,  encountering  the  Royalists  again  November  7th, 
near  Aculco,  where  he  was  defeated  and  driven  back,  but  reached  Guadalajara 
in  safety,  and  organized  a government  there.  Hidalgo  met  the  Spaniards  again 
January  16,  1811,  on  the  bridge  of  Calderon  and  had  his  little  army  dispersed. 

The  defeated  patriots  made  their  way  northward  with  the  hope  of  reaching 
the  United  States  in  safety,  but  were  betrayed  into  the  hands«of  the  Spaniards, 
and  were  captured  in  the  little  town  of  Acatita  de  Bajan,  on  the  21st  of  May, 
1811,  and  conveyed  to  Chihuahua,  where  they  were  executed,  Hidalgo  on  the 
31st  of  July,  Allende,  Aldama  and  Jimenez  on  the  26th. 

The  death  of  these  leaders  had  only  a stimulating  effect  on  the  cause  of  Inde- 
pendence. The  entire  country  was  aroused  and  a desultory  war  carried  on  in 
every  district  for  more  than  four  years,  until  the  execution  of  Morelos  at  the 
orders  of  the  Inquisition,  December  22,  1815,  at  Valladolid,  now  called  Morelia, 
in  honor  of  the  patriot.  As  fast  as  they  were  captured  the  patriots  were  shot, 
but  others  came  to  take  their  places,  and  in  some  cases  came  over  from  the 
Royalist  forces,  as  in  the  case  of  Yturbide,  who  captured  and  shot  Matamoras 
at  Valladolid,  February  3,  1814,  and  seven  days  later  himself  promulgated  the 
cause  of  Independence;  the  famous  Plan  of  Iguala,  which  was  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Roman  Catholic  church  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others;  the  absolute 
Independence  of  Mexico  as  a moderate  monarchy,  with  a Spanish  prince  on 
the  throne;  the  union  and  equality  of  Mexicans  and  Spaniards.  These  three 
clauses  were  called  ‘‘the  three  guarantees,”  represented  in  the  national  colors: 
green,  union  of  the  Mexicans  and  Spaniards;  white,  religious  purity;  red,  inde- 
pendence. 

Yturbide’s  army,  known  as  the  ‘‘Army  of  the  Three  Guarantees,”  finally 
accomplished  the  Independence  of  Mexico. 

The  cities  of  Valladolid,  Queretaro  and  Puebla  were  captured,  the  latter  on 
August  2,  1821,  and  at  once  commenced  the  siege  of  the  capital.  The  last 
Viceroy,  Juan  O’Donoju,  had  just  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz.  He  found  that  he 
could  not  reach  the  City  of  Mexico  and  set  about  arranging  a personal  inter- 
view with  Yturbide,  which  occurred  at  Cordoba,  on  August  23,  1821,  and  an 
agreement,  known  as  the  Treaty  of  Cordoba,  was  drawn  on  the  lines  of  the 
Plan  of  Iguala,  with  amendment  that  O’Donoju  should  be  one  of  the  regents 
to  govern  Mexico  until  a king  could  be  selected.  This  arrangement  practi- 
cally ended  Spanish  rule  in  Mexico.  Yturbide  returned  to  his  army,  and  on 
September  21,  1821,  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  in  triumph.  The  territory 
within  the  boundaries  of  Mexico  at  that  time  included  Guatemala,  all  of  the 
present  Republic  of  Mexico,  and  that  part  of  the  United  States  from  the  Red 
and  Arkansas  Rivers  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  extending  north  to  the  British  pos- 
sessions,— one  of  the  greatest  empires  of  the  earth. 

Agustin  de  Yturbide  was  born  in  Valladolid,  now  Morelia,  September  27, 
^7*83,  joined  the  army  at  the  early  age  of  fifteen,  and  by  his  rnerit  as  a 
soldier  was  rapidly  advanced.  He  was  never  in  favor  of  the  Republic,  though 
he  desired  the  Independence  of  Mexico,  and  probably  hoped  for  his  own 
enthronement,  which  was  accomplished  for  a brief  season. 


S3 

On  the  24th  of  February,  1822,  the  first  Congress  of  Mexico  assembled  in 
the  capital.  Their  election  had  been  provided  for  by  a committee  of  regency 
based  on  the  Plan  of  Iguala  and  the  Treaty  of  Cordoba.  Almost  immediately 
there  were  two  important  factions  among  the  people.  They  resolved  them- 


selves into  two  political  parties,  one  composed  of  the  army  and  the  church, 
that  had  for  its  object  the  placing  of  Yturbide  upon  the  throne.  The  other 
party,  composed  mostly  of  prominent  people,  had  an  idea  of  an  Empire  under 
a prince  of  Spain.  The  Spanish  Cortez  had,  in  the  meantime,  February  13, 
1822,  annulled  the  Treaty  of  Cordoba.  This  gave  encouragement  to  the  army 


34 


and  clergy  party,  and  Congress  was  forced  to  make  selection  of  an  Emperor. 
On  May  19,  1822,  Yturbide  was  elected  by  a vote  of  67  to  15,  and  on  the  21st 
of  July  of  that  year  Yturbide  and  his  wife  were  crowned  in  the  Cathedral  as 
Emperor  and  Empress  of  Mexico.  The  Emperor  was  titled  Agustin  I.  The 
Jmipire  was  short-lived.  Congress,  which  had  been  friendly  to  Yturbide,  was 
dissolved  by  him  and  a sort  of  parliament  organized,  called  a “Junta.” 

Before  the  end  of  the  year  the  Empire  came  to  an  end  by  the  proclamation 
of  a Republic  on  December  6,  1822,  at  Vera  Cruz,  by  General  Antonio  Lopez 
de  Santa  Ana,  and  early  in  January  the  entire  country  had  gathered  under  the 
banner  of  the  Republic,  leaving  only  the  City  of  Mexico  as  the  Empire.  Ytur- 
bide called  Congress  together,  tendered  his  resignation,  which  was  not  accepted, 
as  the  election  had  not  been  regarded  as  legal,  and  his  actions  as  Emperor 
were  also  illegal.  He  was  banished  from  the  country,  but  granted  a pension 
of  $25,000  for  his  previous  services  to  the  country. 

He  went  to  England,  and  from  London  wrote  to  the  Government  warning 
them  of  the  machinations  of  the  clergy  for  the  restoration  of  the  Spanish 
rule  in  Mexico,  and  offering  his  services  in  defense  against  them.  Congress 
did  not  accept  the  information  or  his  services,  and  at  once  a decree  was  issued 
pronouncing  Yturbide  a traitor  and  placing  the  penalty  of  death,  should  he 
return  to  Mexico.  Yturbide  was  ignorant  of  the  issuance  of  this  decree  and 
returned  to  Mexico,  landing  at  Soto  la  Marina,  a little  town  on  the  Gulf 
coast,  in  the  State  of  Tamaulipas,  north  of  Tampico.  He  was  arrested  at  once 
and  taken  before  the  legislature  of  Tamaulipas,  then  in  session,  condemned 
to  death,  and  shot  July  19,  1824. 

The  second  Congress,  really  the  first  of  the  Republic,  assembled  in  the 
capital  on  the  7th  of  November,  1823,  adopting  a Constitution  very  similar 
to  that  of  the  United  States,  giving  to  the  several  states  of  Mexico  similar 
rights  to  those  of  the  United  States.  It  created  a National  Congress,  to  be 
composed  of  a Senate  and  Chamber  of  Deputies,  placing  the  executive  power 
in  the  hands  of  a President,  and  the  judicial  in  the  Supreme  and  Circuit  Courts. 
This  Constitution  was  proclaimed  on  the  4th  of  October,  1824,  and  on  the 
loth  of  that  month  the  first  President  of  Mexico,  General  Guadalupe  Victoria, 
took  the  oath  of  office.  Congress  was  dissolved  on  the  24th  of  December,  1824, 
and  the  first  Constitutional  Congress  convened  January  i,  1825.  In  that  year 
Fort  Juan  de  Ulua,  the  only  place  held  by  the  Spanish,  was  evacuated  and  the 
Republic  of  Mexico  was  recognized  by  the  United  States  and  England. 

From  1828  to  1846  there  was  a series  of  revolutions,  growing  out  of  the 
disregard  of  the  election  between  the  Centralists  and  the  Federalists.  The  sec- 
ond election  for  President  occurred  in  1828,  when  General  Gomez  Pedraza 
was  elected.  General  Santa  Ana  dissenting  and  starting  a revolution,  which 
placed  General  Vicente  Guerrero  in  office. 

Congress  passed  an  act  on  the  20th  of  March,  1829,  banishing  all  Spaniards 
from  Mexico,  which,  of  course,  brought  retaliation  from  Spain.  A force  was 
organized  in  Cuba,  which  landed  at  Tampico  in  July,  1829.  This  invasion  was 
met  by  the  opposition  of  all  the  people  in  Mexico.  Santa  Ana  organized  a force 
at  Vera  Cruz  and  proceeded  to  Tampico,  which  was  reenforced  by  General 
Mier  y Teran.  A battle  occurred  on  the  9th  of  September,  which,  on  the  nth, 
was  followed  by  the  surrender  of  the  Spanish  invaders.  This  was  the  last  act 
of  the  Spaniards  to  regain  possession  of  Mexico,  and  was  followed  by  the  recog- 
nition of  the  Republic  by  Spain,  December  28,  1836. 

The  Liberal  Congress,  in  March,  1833,  commenced  the  enaction  of  laws 
against  the  clergy,  tending  to  the  abolishment  of  monasteries  and  convents, 
and  to  forbid  the  priests  teaching  in  State  or  National  schools.  This  law  was, 
however,  withdrawn  by  Santa  Ana  in  1834. 


35 


While  these  stormy  scenes  were  being  enacted  in  Mexico,  that  part  of  the 
great  Empire  known  as  Texas  had  been  settled,  to  some  degree,  by  Americans, 
who,  in  1835,  under  the  leadership  of  Sam  Houston,  declared  their  Independ- 
ence. 

General  Santa  Ana  was  in  command  of  the  army  sent  to  quell  the  revo- 
lution, and  was  met  by  the  Texans  in  several  bloody  battles,  among  which  was 
the  massacre  of  the  Alamo  on  the  6th  of  March,  1836,  and  at  Goliad  on  the 
27th,  in  which  nearly  600  Texans  were  slain.  | 

General  Santa  Ana  was  defeated  at  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  near  Galves- 
ton, and  the  next  morning,  April  22nd,  was  made  prisoner.  This  battle  and 
the  capture  of  the  President  and  Chief  General  of  Mexico  practically  ended 
the  war  and  made  Texas  an  independent  State. 

Texas  existed  as  a separate  Republic  until  1844,  being  recognized  by  the 
United  States  and  the  European  powers.  On  the  12th  of  April,^  1844,  a treaty 
was  concluded  between  President  Tyler  and  the  Texans,  by  which  Texas  was 


HOUSE  OF  CORTEZ  AT  COYOACAN. 

admitted  as  one  of  the  United  States.  This  treaty  was  ratified  by  Congress  in 
March,  1845,  which  action,  of  course,  did  not  meet  with  the  approval  of  the  i 
Mexicans.  As  Texas  was  an  independent  power  and  had  been  recognized  as 
such  by  the  Mexican  Government,  their  right  to  be  annexed  by  the  United 
States  was  not  questioned  by  any  other  power. 

This  was  the  beginning  of  the  Mexican  War,  and  the  first  battle  was  fought 
April  24,  1846,  in  which  sixteen  Americans  were  killed  and  wounded,  and  the 
remaining  force  captured.  In  the  next  battles,  which  were  Palo  Alto,  on  May 
8th,  and  Resaca  de  la  Palma  on  the  next  day  (both  of  these  places  in  Texas), 
the  Mexicans  were  defeated. 

General  Taylor  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  at  its  mouth,  on  May  the  i8th, 
and  occupied  the  Mexican  town  of  Matamoros.  The  Americans  had  provided 
for  the  prosecution  of  the  war  by  an  appropriation  of  $10,000,000  and  50,000 


36 


volunteers  were  called  for.  Before  the  war  commenced  an  envoy  of  the  United 
States,  Mr.  Slidell,  had  been  refused  an  audience  by  General  Paredes,  who 
had  obtained  the  place  of  the  Presidential  office  of  Mexico,  so  that  all  efforts 
looking  to  a peaceful  settlement  were  abandoned.  General  Taylor  advanced 
from  the  Rio  Grande,  captured  Monterey  September  20,  1846,  and  on  the 
23d  of  February,  1847,  fought  another  battle  at  Buena  Vista,  about  five  miles 
south  of  Saltillo. 

Generals  Doniphan  and  Price  marched  through  New  Mexico,  where  they 
had  engagements  with  Indians,  then  proceeded  in  the  direction  of  Chihuahua, 
which  they  occupied  on  the  28th  of  February,  1847,  after  the  battle  of  Sacra- 
mento. General,  then  Captain  Fremont,  acting  under  orders  from  the  Gov- 
ernment at  Washington,  started  a revolution  against  Mexico  in  California,  and 
on  the  7th  of  July,  1846,  Commodore  Sloat  occupied  the  town  of  Monterey,  Cal., 
and  the  next  day  Commander  Montgomery  occupied  San  Francisco.  On  the 
17th  of  August,  Commodore  Stockton  issued  a proclamation  taking  possession 
of  California,  complete  occupation  of  the  State  being  made  by  Stockton  and 
Kearney. 

The  expedition  against  the  Mexican  capital  was  under  General  Winfield 
Scott,  who  landed  at  Vera  Cruz  March  9,  1847,  and  captured  the  city  after  five 
days’  bombardment,  on  the  27th  of  March.  On  his  march  toward  the  capital 
he  met  General  Santa  Ana  at  Cerro  Gordo,  and  defeated  him  on  the  i8th 
of  April.  Without  further  opposition  General  Scott  reached  Puebla,  and 
entered  the  Valley  of  Mexico  on  the  9th  of  August,  defeated  the  Mexicans  at 
Padierna,  August  20th,  and  marched  to  the  field  of  Churubusco  on  the  same 
day. 

On  the  8th  of  September  occurred  the  battles,  Molino  del  Rey  and  Casa 
Mata,  and,  on  the  12th  and  13th  stormed  the  castle  of  Chapultepec,  so  gal- 
lantly defended  by  the  cadets  of  the  military  academy,  and  took  possession  of 
Belem  and  San  Cosme,  entering  the  City  of  Mexico  on  the  15th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1847.  A treaty  of  peace  called  the  “Treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo,”  was 
concluded  on  the  2d  of  February,  1848,  by  which  Mexico  ceded  to  the  United 
States  all  the  territory  north  and  east  of  the  Rio  Grande,  for  which  the  United 
States  Government  agreed  to  pay  to  Mexico  the  sum  of  $15,000,000,  thus  con- 
cluding a war,  whose  settlement,  on  its  face,  would  seem  to  be  the  most  liberal 
in  the  history  of  wars,  but  concluding  a war  that  General  Grant  pronounced 
the  most  unholy  and  unjust  ever  waged  by  a stronger  nation  against  a weaker 
one. 

In  1851  Mariano  Arista  was  elected  President.  In  less  than  two  years,  in 
the  midst  of  a revolution,  he  resigned  the  place.  The  following  two  years, 
from  1853  to  1855,  General  Santa  Ana  was  Dictator.  On  December  the  12th, 
1855,  Comonfort  was  elected  President,  commencing  his  administration  with 
the  enforcement  of  the  laws  against  the  Church. 

In  1856  he  ordered  the  sale  of  all  landed  estates  owned  by  the  Church, 
the  Church  to  receive  the  money,  and  the  ownership  of  the  lands  passing  to 
private  individuals.  In  the  same  year,  September  i6th,  he  announced  the  sup- 
pression of  the  Monks,  which  was  instigated  by  a conspiracy  of  the  San  Fran- 
ciscans. During  his  administration  a new  Constitution  was  framed  and 
adopted,  February  5,  1857,  Comonfort  remaining  as  President  until  the  elec- 
tion under  the  new  Constitution,  when  he  was  elected  to  succeed  himself.  He 
entered  upon  his  second  term,  December  i,  1857,  and  one  of  his  first  acts  was 
to  overthrow  the  Constitution  that  he  had  sworn  to  support.  He  dissolved 
Congress  in  December  and  imprisoned  Benito  Juarez,  who  had  been  elected 
his  successor.  All  of  his  plans  failed,  he  left  the  country  in  1858,  and  did  not 
return  until  the  French  Intervention,  when  he  joined  the  Mexicans  against 


37 


Maximilian.  After  the  departure  of  Comonfort,  Juarez  became  the  Consti- 
tutional President,  but  was  compelled  to  abandon  the  capital,  and  at  once 
set  out  for  Guadalajara,  where  his  Government  was  organized.  He  proceeded 
to  the  Pacific  Coast,  thence  to  the  United  States,  returning  to  Vera  Cruz,  from 
which  point  he  administered  the  Government.  During  this  time  another  Gov- 
ernment was  in  existence  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  under  Felix  Zuloaga,  whose 
administration  commenced  a vigorous  prosecution  of  the  War  of  the  Reform, 
which  extended  over  the  entire  country.  In  this  Juarez  took  prominent  part 
by  his  proclamation  of  the  Laws  of  the  Reform  at  a time  when  there  seemed 
the  least  possible  chance  of  success.  This  was  the  bitterest  war  in  the  history 
of  Mexico.  Juarez’  proclamation  was  dated  July  12,  1859,  and  had  the  effect  of 


MINT  AT  CHIHUAHUA,  HIDALGO’S  PRISON. 

a settlement  of  the  causes  of  the  dissensions  of  fifty  years.  Juarez  entered 
the  City  of  Mexico,  January  ii,  1861,  and  commenced  operation  of  the  Laws 
of  the  Reform  from  the  capital. 

In  1861,  July  the  17th,  the  Mexican  Congress  passed  a law  suspending  pay- 
ment on  the  bonds  and  interest  of  the  Republic  held  by  foreigners.  This  law 
gave  the  European  powers  an  excuse  for  the  intervention.  The  first  inter- 
vention in  Mexican  affairs,  however,  was  during  the  administration  of  General 
Bustamente,  when  a claim  of  $600,000  was  made  by  France  for  damages  suffered 
by  French  subjects  during  the  various  wars. 

One  of  the  items  of  this  claim  was  made  by  a French  cook  for  $60,000  worth 
of  pies,  alleged  to  have  been  stolen  from  him  by  the  soldiers.  This  claim  of 
the  French  was  derisively  called  “La  Reclamacion  de  los  Pasteles,”  the  claim 
of  the  pies.  A French  fleet  arrived  off  Vera  Cruz  October  27,  1839,  and  cap- 
tured the  city  on  the  5th  of  December,  on  which  day  the  French  were  attacked 


38 


and  driven  back  to  their  ships  by  General  Santa  Ana,  who  in  this  battle  lost 
his  leg.  A treaty  was  concluded  in  March,  1839,  when  the  full  claim  of  $600,000 
was  paid. 

The  intervention  of  1861  was  then  the  second,  and  the  outcome  of  an 
agreement  called  the  Treaty  of  London,  entered  into  October  31,  1861,  between 
France,  England  and  Spain,  binding  these  nations  to  occupy  the  coast  of 
Mexico,  with  the  idea  to  put  the  Mexicans  in  a position  to  establish  a govern- 
ment of  their  own. 

The  fleet  of  the  allies  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz  in  December,  1861,  and  Jan- 
uary, 1862,  bringing  commissioners — General  Prim,  of  Spain;  M.  de  Saligny, 
of  France,  and  Admiral  Wyke,  of  England — who  were  authorized  to  treat  with 
the  representatives  of  the  Mexican  Government.  These  commissioners  issued 
a proclamation  declaring  that  their  presence  in  Mexico  was  for  the  purpose 
and  question  of  finance  only.  A conference  between  the  Government  and  the 
commissioners,  called  the  Treaty  of  La  Soledad,  signed  February  19,  1862, 
allowed  the  Spanish  troops  to  advance  as  far  as  Orizaba,  and  the  French  troops 
to  Tehuacan.  The  English  made  no  advance  of  troops  into  the  interior;  in 
fact,  only  1,000  marines  had  accompanied  the  English  fleet  as  a guard  of  honor. 
It  was  stipulated  that  the  troops  should  be  withdrawn  as  soon  as  the  treaty 
should  be  confirmed  by  the  English  and  French  commissioners.  The  Spanish 
forces  were  withdrawn,  and  the  English  and  Spanish  ships  left  Vera  Cruz. 
The  French  troops  remained,  and  were  reenforced  in  March  to  the  number  of 
40,000  men  under  Marshal  Forey,  who  arrived  in  Mexico  in  January,  1863. 
Their  advance  towards  the  capital  was  repulsed  at  Puebla  on  the  5th  of  May, 
1862,  by  General  Zaragoza’s  troops.  Puebla  was  captured  on  the  17th  of  May 
of  that  year. 

Juarez  abandoned  the  capital  and  the  French  soldiers  entered  the  City  of 
Mexico  June  9,  1863.  On  the  loth  of  July,  1863,  an  “Assembly  of  Notables” 
was  called  together  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  a declaration  made  by  that 
body  to  the  effect  that  Mexico  should  be  governed  by  a hereditary  Monarchy, 
under  a Catholic  prince,  and  that  the  throne  should  be  offered  to  Maximilian, 
Archduke  of  Austria,  also  a representative  of  the  ruling  house  of  Spain,  and 
brought  Mexico,  in  1863,  practically  to  the  position  she  occupied  in  1821. 
Maximilian  accepted  the  throne  on  two  conditions:  first,  that  he  should  be 
elected  by  a popular  vote  in  Mexico;  second,  that  the  Emperor  Napoleon  should 
give  him  military  aid  as  long  as  it  should  be  necessary. 

Maximilian  arrived  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  June  12,  1864,  with  his  wife, 
Carlotta,  daughter  of  Leopold  L,  King  of  the  Belgians.  They  were  crowned 
Emperor  and  Empress  in  the  Cathedral  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Maximilian  continued  to  enforce  the  Laws  of  the  Reform,  and  thus  increased 
the  opposition  of  the  Clerical  party.  As  President  Juarez  had,  or  was  believed 
to  have,  abandoned  the  country,  Maximilian  issued  a decree  declaring  the  war 
at  an  end  and  all  persons  in  arms  against  the  Government  to  be  bandits,  and 
when  captured  should  be  shot.  The  decree  aroused  bitterness  of  opposition 
throughout  the  country,  following  the  execution  of  Generals  Arteago,  Salazar, 
Villagomez  and  Felix  Diaz.  The  opposition  to  Maximilian  was  not  confined 
to  Mexico.  The  United  States  Government  was  opposed  to  the  reestablishment 
of  a monarchy  on  the  western  continent.  Secretary  Seward  informed  the 
French  in  a diplomatic  way  that,  as  soon  as  he  could  be  relieved  of  some  little 
difficulties  that  he  had  on  his  hands  in  his  own  country  at  that  time,  he  would 
look  upon  the  occupation  of  Mexico  by  the  French  army  as  a grave  reflection 
on  the  United  States,  and  that  the  United  States  could  not  tolerate  the  estab- 
lishment of  an  Empire  in  Mexico  based  on  military  support  of  a foreign 
country. 


39 


Napoleon,  on  reception  of  this  note,  abandoned  Maximilian,  and  ordered 
the  evacuation  by  the  French  in  November,  1866.  Maximilian  had  not  secured 
the  support  of  either  of  the  parties  of  Mexico.  He  had  burdened  the  countfy 
with  an  excessive  debt,  due  possibly  to  evil  councilors,  one  of  which  was  Mar- 
shal Bazaine.  The  collapse  of  the  Empire  was  immediate.  The  appeal  of 
Carlotta  to  the  French  Emperor  and  to  the  Pope  was  unavailing.  The  last 
of  the  troops  left  Mexico  in  February,  1867.  Maximilian  decided  first  to  leave 
the  country,  but  reconsidered  his  decision  and  concluded  to  remain. 

President  Juarez  had  left  Paso  del  Norte  and  was  advancing  southward; 
during  all  of  this  time  he  had  maintained  his  authority  as  President  of  the 
Republic. 


THE  GARDEN-CHAPULTEPEC. 

General  Miramon  was  sent  out  to  capture  Juarez  and  was  defeated  at  San 
Jacinto  on  the  ist  of  February,  1867,  and  fell  back  to  Queretaro,  where  he  was 
joined  by  Maximilian.  While  these  movements  were  being  prosecuted  in  the 
North,  General  Porfirio  Diaz  captured  Puebla  on  April  2,  after  a siege  of 
twenty-five  days,  and  defeated  Marquez  at  San  Lorenzo  on  April  ii,  and  at 
once  commenced  siege  of  the  City  of  Mexico.  General  Escobedo  commenced 
a siege  of  Queretaro  in  March  and  continued  it  until  its  capture  on  the  15th 
of  May.  Maximilian  was  captured  on  the  stony  hill  called  Cerro  de  Las  Cam- 
panas,  and  on  the  spot  where  he  was  captured  he  was  executed,  together  with 


40 


his  Generals,  Miramon  and  Mexia,  at  seven  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  June 
19,  1867.  A request  from  the  United  States  Government  that  the  life  of  Maxi- 
milian be  spared  was  not  heeded.  Nineteen  Generals  of  Maximilian’s  army 
were  also  condemned  to  be  shot,  but  were  pardoned  by  President  Juarez. 

The  City  of  Mexico  surrendered  to  General  Diaz  June  21,  and  President 
Juarez  entered  the  capital  on  July  25,  1867.  The  Constitution  of  1857  was 
placed  in  effect  throughout  Mexico,  a new  Congress  was  convened,  and 
Juarez  reelected  President  October  12,  1871.  During  this  administration  the 
various  railway  and  telegraph  lines  were  projected.  They  were  only  slight 
disturbances  that  occurred  in  Mexico  after  the  fall  of  the  Empire.  In  a sub- 
sequent election  the  opposing  candidates  were  Juarez,  Lerdo  de  Tejada  and 
Porfirio  Diaz.  Juarez  was  elected  December  i,  1871,  and  took  his  seat  for 
the  third  time,  the  result  of  which  was  a slight  revolution,  occurring  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  country.  These  were  headed  by  Porfirio  Diaz  on  his  Ha- 
cienda of  La  Noria,  in 
Oaxaca.  A manifesto  was 
issued  proposing  a conven- 
tion and  assembly  of  Nota- 
bles, to  reorganize  a gov- 
ernment with  Diaz  as  com- 
mander-in-chief  of  the  army, 
until  the  establishment  of 
such  government.  The 
movement  was  interrupted 
by  the  death  of  Juarez  and 
the  succession  of  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Supreme  Court, 
Lerdo  de  Tejada.  The  ad- 
ministration of  Lerdo  was 
peaceful,  and  he  was  elected 
President  December  i,  1872, 
continuing  in  office  for 
three  years,  during  which 
time  the  railroad  between 
Vera  Cruz  and  the  City  of 
Mexico,  called  the  Mexican 
Railway,  was  opened  on 
January  i,  1873. 

Another  Revolution  occurred  in  Oaxaca,  January  15,  1876,  and  once  more 
the  country  was  in  the  midst  of  a strife.  Lerdo  was  forced  to  leave  the  coun- 
try, and  General  Diaz  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  November  24,  1876,  and  was 
proclaimed  President;  on  the  6th  of  May,  1877,  he  was  declared  Constitutional 
President,  in  which  office  he  remained  until  November  30,  1880,  during  which 
time  he  put  down  small  revolutions  and  executed  nine  Revolutionists  on  June 
24,  1879. 

On  the  25th  of  September,  1880,  Congress  elected  General  Manuel  Gon- 
zales President.  During  the  administration  of  General  Gonzales  the  celebrated 
Nickel  riots  of  1883  occurred,  the  common  people  refusing  to  accept  nickel 
coin  in  the  place  of  silver  and  copper,  entailing  on  them  considerable  loss.  The 
national  debt  of  Mexico  was  also  greatly  increased,  and  his  administration  was 
practically  a financial  failure. 

General  Diaz  was  again  elected  President  and  took  the  oath  of  office  De- 
cember I,  1884,  and  at  each  recurring  election  to  1899  succeeded  himself.  On 
taking  the  office  in  1884  he  found  an  absolutely  empty  treasury  and  a country 


AN  OLD  ORATORIO,  TLALPAM. 


41 


without  credit.  It  was  a condition  and  not  a theory  that  confronted  Diaz — 
a condition  that  theories  alone  could  not  ameliorate.  Urgent  and  immediate 
action  was  the  only  remedy  for  the  deplorable  state  of  the  country.  General 
Diaz  was  the  man  of  action,  man  of  the  hour,  and  delayed  not  till  the  morrow. 
To  perceive  a need,  with  him,  was  to  act  at  once,  and  to  promote  the  pros- 
perity and  peace  of  his  country  was  his  only  aim.  The  railroads  and  the 
telegraphs  had  only  been  proposed;  the  commerce  of  the  country  was  in  a 
state  of  lethargy.  Diaz’  quick,  restless,  active  disposition  called  it  to  life,  and 
his  liberal,  wise  and  efficient  administration  of  the  Government  made  it  pos- 
sible to  complete  the  enterprises  of  communication  and  commerce,  and  it  so 
promoted  the  internal  improvements  in  every  direction  that  his  own  acts  have 
placed  President  Diaz  among  the  foremost  statesmen  of  the  world. 

A patriotic  Mexican  writer  says:  “With  the  restless,  inconstant  character  of 
our  race,  the  long  tenure  of  office  by  one  man  is  one  of  the  greatest  dangers 
of  the  peace  of  the  nation.  Yet,  notwithstanding.  General  Diaz  has  succeeded 
in  avoiding  shipwreck  on  this  shoal,  making  himself  all  but  indispensable  to 
the  completion  of  the  reconstructive  and  conciliatory  work  of  which  he  is  the 
true  and  only  author.  The  work  of  pacification  accomplished  by  General 
Diaz  has  consisted  in  the  strengthening  of  the  central  power,  and  the  discreet 
use  of  his  personal  prestige  and  influence  for  the  purpose  of  securing  in  all 
the  states  of  the  Mexican  Union  the  election  of  governors  attached  to  him 
personally,  and  resolved  to  second  him  at  any  cost  in  the  task  of  assuring  to 
the  country  the  supreme  benefit  of  peace,  as  the  most  imperious  necessity  of 
the  Mexican  people.  The  patriotic  conviction  of  the  urgency,  for  a nation 
bleeding  and  weakened  as  ours  has  been,  of  a convalescent  political  regime 
to  enable  us  to  recuperate  our  shattered  strength,  has  facilitated  the  insensible 
and  voluntary  creation  of  a system  of  governmental  discipline  wherein  the 
federated  units,  like  the  wheels  of  an  immense  machine,  receive  without  shock 
the  impulse  of  force  which  is  conveyed  to  them  from  the  great  central  motor.” 


ENTRANPi  9f  QORTEZ  INTO  TENOCHTITLAN. 


42 


IN  THE  HALLS  OF  HER  ANCESTORS, 


Practical  Matters, 


Travel  in  Mexico  is  attended  by  all  the  comforts  and  very  many 
of  the  luxuries  that  are  found  on  the  railway  and  steamer  lines  of  the 
United  States,  where  the  science  of  travel  has  well  nigh  been 
perfected.  Passenger  trains  are  composed  of  coaches  of 
American  manufacture  and  are  for  passengers  of  the  first,  sec- 
ond and  third  classes,  with  all  the  accommodations  found  in 
modern  cars.  Pullman  sleeping  cars  are  attached  to  the 
through  express  trains  of  the  trunk  lines  between  the  United 
^ States  and  Mexico,  and  on  side  lines  and  branch  roads  of  im- 
portance. 

The  dining-car  and  buffet  service  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  but 
the  wayside  restaurant  is  as  a rule  good  and  up  to  the  average. 

Railway  Tickets  are  regulated  by  a code  of  rules, 
similar  to  those  in  effect  in  the  United  States.  They 
are  first,  second  and  third  class,  at  prices  in  accordance  with  accommodations 
furnished.  Through  unlimited  tickets,  good  till  used  and  to  stop  over,  on  noti- 
fication to  the  conductor,  anywhere  and  for  any  length  of  time;  limited  and 
excursion  tickets  are  good  to  stop  over  within  their  limit;  local  or  continuous 
passage  tickets  must  be  used  through  to  destination. 

Baggage  and  Customs  Regulations.  On  arrival  at  the  border  cities, 
travelers  should  have  their  baggage  ready  for  examination  by  the  Mexican 
officials,  and  on  the  return  by  the  Americans.  The  duty  is  quickly  and  cour- 
teously performed,  without  trouble  or  annoyance  to  the  well-intending  trav- 
eler. Hand  baggage  should  be  taken  to  the  baggage-room  of  the  station,  where 
the  trunks  are  also  taken  by  baggage  men  to  be  opened  by  the  owner's,  or 
left  in  the  sleeping-cars,  according  to  local  regulations.  No  fees  are  required 
or  expected,  and  it  is  bad  taste  to  offer  them.  Nothing  except  wearing  ap- 
parel, watches  and  jewels  worn  on  the  person,  fire-arms,  tools  of  trade,  a 
camera  in  use,  a broken  package  of  cigars  or  cigarettes,  and  such  other  articles, 
are  on  the  free  list.  On  the  return  the  American  officers  are  equally  polite 
and  courteous,  and  their  examination  a mere  form,  but  under  the  law  nothing 
is  free  except  wearing  apparel,  hoop-poles,  skeletons,  sauer  kraut,  bologna 


44 


and  joss  sticks.  The  ninety-nine  cigar  fallacy  is  long  ago  exploded,  and  idols, 
antiquities,  rag  figures  and  presents  for  friends  at  home,  are  all  dutiable, 
though  they  are  generally  passed  free  in  small  quantities. 

The  baggage  regulations  on  the  railways  are  the  same  as  in  the  United 
States  to  holders  of  tickets  purchased  in  this  country — 150  pounds  free  on  each 
full  ticket  and  75  pounds  on  half  tickets.  On  local  or  through  tickets  within 
the  Republic  50  kilograms,  or  no  pounds,  is  the  limit  of  baggage  carried  free. 
On  those  leading  to  the  United  States  or  other  foreign  countries  the  full  150 
pounds  is  allowed.  Agents  of  transfer  companies  board  incoming  trains  as 
they  approach  the  larger  cities  and  check  baggage  to  hotels  or  residences,  call 
for  baggage  to  be  checked  to  all  points  in  the  Republic  and  the  border  cities. 
Cargadores  (public  porters,  with  numbered  badges  indicating  a license,  may  be 
trusted  with  baggage  to  and  from  trains.  Give  the  man  a written  address 
and  take  his  number. 

Money — The  money  of  Mexico  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  United  States — 
i.  e.,  dollars  and  cents — called  in  Spanish  pesos  y centavos;  that  is  the  legal 

way  of  counting  it,  as  enacted  by  a 
law  taking  effect  in  1890,  but  the 
people  still  use  the  old  system  to 
some  extent,  though  they  under- 
stand both.  A 
tlaco  is  a cent  and  a 
half,  a cuartilla  is 
three  cents;  these 
are  of  copper  and 
now  almost  out  of 
circulation.  The  old 
silver  coins  were 

the  medio^  6>4 

cents;  real^  12^ 

cents,  also  called  in; 
the  quarter  and  half 
dollars  are  rarely  so 
called,  they  are  • dos 
reales  (pronounced 
do  re-al-es),  and 

cuatro  r calcs;  and 
seventy-five  cents  is 
sets  reales.  Regard- 
less of  the  law  to 
the  contrary,  prices 
are  quoted  in  reales, 
up  to  one  dollar, 
then  in  most  cases 
it  is  pesos  y re  ales, 
thus:  a dollar  and  a half  is  un peso y cualro  reales;  one  dollar  and  four  reales. 

The  fifty-cent  piece  is  sometimes  called  a toston,  and  25  cents  a peseta, 
though  rarely.  The  Mexicans  make  change  to  a nicety  and  are  credited  with 
splitting  tlacos,  literally,  and  with  a hatchet. 

Gold  is  little  used — an  onza  de  oro  is  worth  $16;  a media  onza  de  oro, 
$8;  pistola,  $4;  escudo  de  oro,  $2;  escudilo  de  oro,  $1. 

The  paper  money  in  circulation  is  in  notes  of  the  National  Bank  of  Mexico, 
the  State  banks  and  the  Bank  of  London,  Mexico  and  South  America  all 


45 


passing  at  par,  except  In  rare  cases  some  of  the  State  banks  beyond  the  limits 
of  the  State  where  issued,  then  only  at  a slight  discount. 

Silver  is  to  be  depended  on  at  all  times,  and,  although  bulky  and  heavy, 
it  is  the  best.  The  native  possessed  of  a sufficiency  carries  it  in  a hand  bag 
with  a shoulder  strap. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  buy  Mexican  money  before  reaching  the  border;  in 
fact,  it  is  better  not  to  do  so,  as  better  rates  of  exchange  can  be  obtained 
there  and  in  Mexico.  The  ticket  agents  at  Juarez  City,  opposite  El  Paso;  City 
of  Porfirio  Diaz,  opposite  Eagle  Pass,  and  New  Laredo,  opposite  Laredo,  can 
always  furnish  sufficient  funds  to  reach  the  interior,  where  American  paper  is 
par  or  premium,  as  also  Wells-Fargo  or  American  Express  cheques. 

The  gold  and  silver  is  not  so  acceptable;  New  York  exchange  commands 
par  or  premium. 

Measures  aud  Distauces- — A vara  is  33^2  inches  and  corresponds  to  the 
yard  in  the  dry  goods  stores.  A metre  is  a yard  and  a tenth,  and  a pie  is  about  ii 
inches,  corresponding  to  the  foot,  and  is  so  translated  into  English;  a pulgada 
is  about  an  inch.  The  law  recently  enacted  requires  the  use  of  the  metric 
system  in  selling  goods,  hence  the  vara  is  a thing  of  the  past  and  the  metre 
is  the  measure  of  Mexico.  A kilometre  is  about  five-eighths  of  a mile,  and  a 
legua^  in  English  a league,  is  about  2.6  miles,  the  mile  {milld)  not  being  used 
except  on  rare  occasions;  all  measures  and  weights  must  have  the  govern- 
mental stamp  to  show  that  they  are  correct. 

Climate— Because  it  is  in  the  far  south,  because  it  lies  almost  wholly 
within  the  tropics  and  near  the  equator,  Mexico  is  supposed  to  be  a warm 
country;  the  contrary  is  the  case.  The  climate  is  the  most  equable  in  the 
world;  the  only  difference  between  summer  and  winter  is,  that  in  the  summer 
it  rains  almost  every  day,  while  in  winter  there  is  scarcely  a shower  during 
the  whole  season. 

It  is  the  extremely  high  altitudes  of  nearly  all  the  cities  and  towns  of 
Mexico,  except  those  near  the  coast,  that  give  them  the  delightful  and  health- 
ful climate  they  possess.  The  rays  of  a tropic  sun  are  tempered  by  cooling 
breezes  blowing  over  snow-clad  mountains.  The  time  for  a tour  of  Mexico 
may  be  at  the  tourist’s  convenience.  Traveling  is  pleasant  at  all  seasons.  The 
only  places  to  be  avoided  in  summer  are  those  in  the  tierra  caliente^  Vera 
Cruz,  Tampico  and  other  cities  very  near  the  sea  coast,  and  except  at  these 
places  it  is  healthful  at  all  times.  Really,  Mexico  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the 
“rainy  season” — that  is,  between  May  and  October — when  the  fields  are  green 
and  the  whole  country  is  ablossom  from  the  summer  rains.  There  are  no 
long  rainy  spells  lasting  two  or  three  days;  there  is  a shower  every  after- 
noon or  evening;  this  may  be  depended  upon,  and  outings  arranged  for  the 
morning  or  forenoon.  This  program  should  be  followed  in  the  winter  as 
well,  for  if  there  are  any  winds  to  blow  the  dust  and  sand  of  the  plains  or  the 
waves  of  the  lakes,  they  will  come  in  the  afternoon. 

Clotliiiig — The  proper  clothing  is  that  used  in  the  United  States  for  spring 
and  autumn  wear;  light  overcoats  and  wraps  are  needed  only  after  nightfall 
or  at  points  of  extremely  high  altitudes.  For  travel  in  lower  levels  of  the  tierra 
caliente  summer  clothing  will  be  needed  and  ladies  will  rejoice  in  the  posses- 
sion of  a “shirt-waist.” 

Cabs  and  Carriages — If  we  could  strike  an  average  between  the  coach  of 
state  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  as  shown  in  the  National  Museum,  and 
the  “yellow-flag”  cab  of  the  streets,  the  City  of  Mexico  would  have  the  finest 
cabs  in  the  world;  as  it  is,  she  has  more  different  kinds  than  any  other  city. 
They  are  good,  bad  and  indifferent,  carrying  little  tin  flags,  about  two  by  four 
inches,  when  not  engaged.  These  flags  indicate  the  class  and  rates  of  fare. 


46 


The  blue-flag  rates  are  one  dollar  per  hour  for  one  or 
more  passengers.  The  red  flag  indicates  seventy-five 
cents  per  hour  and  thirty-seven  cents  per  half  hour. 
The  yellow  or  white  flag’s  tariff  is  fifty  cents  per  hour 
and  the  horses  usually  earn  it,  the  time  of  transit  being 
usually  so  long  that  it  would  be  cheaper  to  get  a blue- 
flag  hack  at  once.  Ten  or  twelve  cents  may  be  added 
to  these  rates  as  a fee  to  the  driver,  and  another  to 
the  small  boy  who  may  have  been  on  the  box  with  the 
driver  and  who  may  have  opened  the  door  for  you.  But 
diis  is  as  you  please.  If  an  attempt  to  overcharge  is  made,  a request  for  the 
^'numero''*  usually  effects  his  departure  in  short  order.  After  dark,  and  on 
Sundays  and  Feast  days,  these  rates  are  increased  about  fifty  per  cent. 

If  the  cab  is  needed  for  less  than  an  hour  it  is  best  to  ask  how  much  for 
the  ride;  if  for  longer  than  an  hour,  say  por  hora  and  get  in.  Compare  your 
time  with  the  driver  and  dismiss  him  promptly  at  the  end  of  the  ride.  The 
hackman  of  Mexico  differs  not  from  his  brethren  in  all  the  other  parts  of  the 
world,  and  further  advice  to  the  traveler  would  be  a waste  of  words. 

Street  Cars — The  street  car  of  Mexico,  in  the  smaller  towns,  is  a mule 

car,  the  mule  figuring  as  the  almost  universal  motive  power,  standing  still 
at  times,  looking  without  life,  but  when  the  word  is  given  he  goes  with  a 
rush,  galloping  to  the  other  end  of  the  line  with  all  his  might,  as  if  in  a hurry 
to  get  where  he  can  stand  still  again.  The 

driver  simply  holds  the  I'cins  and  lets  the  mule 

go,  his,  the  man’s,  duty  ^ being  principally  to 

wind  the  brake,  blow  a i tin  horn  at  street  in- 

this  is  not  the  ^ fault  of  horn,  which  is  not 

unlike  the  campaign  horn,  or  the  Christmas 

horn  of  the  American  j highly 
hideous  in  its  hootings  effect  on 

the  burros,  which  regard  them  not,  and  listen  even  lightly  to  the  hissing  whistles 
and  andele ! andele ! ! of  their  own  drivers,  but  the  street  cars  have  the  right  of 
way  and  hurry  on  through  the  droves,  often  jostling  the  heavy  loads  of  the  pass- 
ing burro.  There  are  first  and  second-class  cars  going  in  pairs  within  a block  of 
each  other,  the  best  car  first.  The  first-class  cars  are  painted  buff  and  the 
others  green.  The  fares  are  from  five  to  twenty-five  cents,  according  to  the 
distance  traveled.  The  second-class  fares  are  cheaper.  The  conductor  sells 
tickets  and  a collector  boards  the  car  at  certain  points  and  takes  them  up, 
thus  doing  away  with  the  bell  punch.  At  least  this  was  the  old  way,  but  the 
new  company  has  adopted  the  bell  punch  and  the  indicator  for  the  recording 
of  fares,  and  thus  another  of  the  quaint  customs  of  this  country  has  gone  by. 
Special  cars  may  be  hired  for  parties;  these  bear  the  legend  “Especial”  over 
the  lamp,  and  the  public  do  not  attempt  to  use  them.  There  are  also  freight 
cars,  box  cars  and  flat  cars,  and  cars  for  sheep  and  goats.  And  there  is  in 
Mexico,  as  nowhere  else,  a funeral  car,  with  a raised  dais  and  catafalque  be- 
neath a four-post  canopy  capped  with  a cross.  The  funeral  car  is  painted  black 
or  white.  These  cars,  with  a number  of  “Especiales,” 
with  closely  drawn  curtains,  make  up  a funeral  train  for 
those  not  able  to  hire  a hearse  and  carriages.  The  name 
tramway  is  in  use,  and  is  translated  to  Spanish  as 
tran-via.  The  system  in  the  City  of  Mexico  is  a fine 
one,  nearly  all  the  lines  starting  from  the  main  plaza 


47 


and  returning  there.  Electricity  is  the  motive  power  in  the  Capital  and  the 
larger  cities,  ddie  cars  are  as  fine  as  are  to  be  found  anywhere.  There  are 
some  splendid  open  cars  for  suburban  excursions. 

Hotels  and  Restaurants — More  has  been  said  against  the  hotels  and 
restaurants  of  Mexico  than  they  ever  deserved.  The  only  trouble  the  American 
has  in  the  Mexican  hotel  results  from  his  own  misfortune,  not  to  say  his 
fault,  in  not  being  able  to  speak  the  language  to  make  his  wants  known,  but 
no  man  who  can  say  hamo7ie  e waivos  or  bif  tek  e cafe  need  go  hungry 
in  Mexico.  All  comers  will  find  clean  beds;  they  may  be  somewhat  hard  some- 
times, and  not  as  wide  as  the  home  bed,  but  scrupulously  clean,  as  the  rooms 
are  also. 

On  arrival  the  guest  is  shown  to  a room;  if  accepted  then,  he  may  register, 
and  his  name  is  written  on  a blackboard,  with  his  room  number.  It  is  need' 


HOTEL  ITURBIDE— CITY  OF  MEXICO. 

less  to  use  up  a hotel  register  if  a room  doesn’t  suit,  and  what  is  the  use  of 
having  a clerk  to  tell  w^hei:e  the  guests’  rooms  are,  when  the  caller  may  look 
on  the  blackboard  and  see  for  himself?  Once  assigned  to  a room,  the  guest 
is  left  severely  alone,  the  manager’s  sole  duty,  after  the  assignment,  being  to 
keep  books  and  collect  the  bills;  and  yet  everything  moves  smoothly,  and  all 
wants  are  supplied  when  made  known.  A Mexican  of  mature  age  presides 
over  the  key-rack,  and  when  you  have  called  for  the  key  once,  you  won’t  have 
to  again;  the  master  of  the  keys  recognizes  you  as  you  approach,  has  your  key 
ready,  with  any  cards  or  letters  left  for  you,  and  with  a cheery  buenas  noches, 
Sehor,  bids  you  good-night.  The  hall-boy — and  there  is  one  on  every  floor — 
is  a sort  of  Pooh-bah  in  his  way.  He  is  bootblack  and  porter,  messenger  and 
chambermaid,  and  agent  for  remote  and  unknown  laundries;  he  removes 
soiled  linen,  and  en  manana  has  them  back  again,  clean  and  snowy  white,  with 


4g 


no  one  on  earth  except  himself  knowing  where  in  Mexico  he  takes  them  or 
whence  he  brings  them.  More  than  this,  the  hall  boy  runs  a sort  of  free 
school  for  the  dissemination  of  the  Spanish  language  to  the  ignorant  guests; 
this  he  does  con  mucho  gusto,  and  is  pleased  to  tell  you  the  name  of  any- 
thing, if  he  can  catch  on  to  your  pronunciation  of  the  question,  como  se 
llama  esof  Almost  all  hotels  are  on  the  European  plan.  Rooms  may  be 
obtained  at  from  one  to  twenty  dollars  per  day,  according  to  size  and  loca- 
tion; if  two  or  more  persons  occupy  the  same  room,  a reduction  is  made. 
It  is  well  to  know  the  price  of  the  room  before  engaging  it,  then  there  can 
be  no  discussion  at  departure.  Rooms  may  be  engaged  by  mail  or  wire 
(the  message  may  be  sent  in  English),  and  they  will  be  kept  and  charged  for 
from  the  time  indicated  in  the  letter  or  telegram.  Lights,  candles  and  lamps 
are  provided  for  rooms,  but  guests  are  expected  to  furnish  their  own  matches 
and  soap.  In  nearly  all  the  best  hotels  there  are  good  baths.  The  baths  of 
Mexico  are  to  be  commended,  and  are  appreciated  as  a comfort  and  a luxury 
not  expected.  Electric  lights  and  call  bells  are  in  the  best  hotels. 

In  many  of  the  better  restaurants  there  are  English-speaking  head-waiters, 
and  bills  of  fare  printed  in  English.  There  are  regular  meals  at  fixed  prices, 
trom  25  cents  for  bread  and  coffee,  37^4  cents  for  eggs  and  coffee,  to  50, 
62K?  75  cents  and  $1.00  for  dinner  or  supper.  Where  meals  are  served  a la 
carte  the  prices  are  affixed  to  each  article.  Arrangements  may  be  made  for 
board  by  the  day  or  week,  at  rates  for  two  or  three  meals  per  day,  as  desired. 
It  is  best  for  persons  not  speaking  the  language  to  take  regular  meals,  table 
d’hote,  and  the  meal  can  be  served  without  trouble  and  served  well.  What- 
ever may  be  said  of  the  restaurants  in  Mexico,  it  should  be  added  that  the 
good  ones  are  managed  by  natives,  and  the  bad  ones  by  foreigners,  as  a general 
thing,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  the  restaurant  advertised  as  English  or  Amer- 
ican is  to  be  avoided. 

The  hours  for  meals  are  somewhat  different  in  Mexico  from  what  they  are 
in  other  countries,  but'  the  ‘‘meals-at-all-hours”  rule  applies  to  all  the  first- 
class  places.  In  the  early  morning  the  custom  of  Mexico — and  it  is  a good 
one — is  to  take  coffee  and  bread,  and,  if  you  please,  fruits;  the  best  kind 
of  fruits  are  to  be  had  everywhere.  About  noon  is  the  breakfast  hour;  the 
meal  commences,  with  soup  and  follows  a menu  very  much  like  an  American 
noon-day  dinner,  ending  with  dessert,  and  coffee,  of  course.  The  other  full 
meal  of  the  day  takes  place  at  from  five  to  eight  o’clock  in  the  evening,  and 
is  called  dinner  or  supper,  as  the  fancy  dictates,  and  resembles  the  earlier  bill 
of  fare  of  the  noon-day  in  every  particular,  commencing  with  soup  and  ending 
with  coffee. 

The  chili  con  came,  chile  with  meat,  of  Mexico,  when  nicely  prepared,  is 
as  palatable  as  it  is  hot.  The  meats  are  fresh,  with  only  the  fault  of  being 
generally  overdone;  the  poultry  is  fine;  fresh  vegetables  are  to  be  had  every 
day  in  the  year,  as  well  as  the  fruits  of  every  clime — apples  and  peaches  from 
the  temperate  zone,  and  pineapples  and  oranges  from  the  hot  country.  The 
bread  is  always  good,  the  coffee  stronger  than  in  other  countries;  little  butter 
is  used,  and  is  made  and  served  fresh  without  salt. 

The  drinks  peculiar  to  Mexico  are  many  and  varied.  Pulque  is  the  national 
beverage,  drank  in  public  places  by  the  poorer  people,  but  in  almost  every 
family  of  all  the  classes.  Pulque  is  the  juice  of  the  maguey,  taken  from  the 
heart  of  the  plant,  and  after  the  fermentation  of  twenty-four  hours  is  ready 
for  use;  pulque  more  than  a day  old  is  useless.  Tequila  and  mescal  are  a 
distillation  from  the  different  varieties  of  the  maguey,  the  heart  of  the  plant 
being  roasted  and  then  put  through  the  process  of  distillation.  A small  quan- 
tity of  tequila  is  a drink,  taken  with  a grain  of  salt;  literally  the  salt  is  placed 


49 


on  the  tongue  before  drinking.  The  wines  are  for  the  most  part  good,  the 
sherry  and  claret  particularly  so.  The  champagnes  are  all  imported,  as  are 
also  brandies  and  whiskies,  which  are  used  in  moderation.  Beer  and  ale  are 
manufactured  in  Mexico,  though  large  quantities  are  imported,  and  the  taste 
for  the  Teutonic  beverage  is  growing. 

Stores  and  Shopping — Every  store  and  shop  in  Mexico  has  a name,  and 
that  name  is  painted  over  the  door;  sign  reading  is  as  interesting  to  the  new- 
comer in  Mexico  as  to  the  country  cousin  on  his  first  visit  to  city  relatives. 
The  name  of  the  store  is  not  always  appropriate,  but  sometimes  it  is,  as  in 
the  case  of  the  drug  store  called  in  Spanish  the  “gate  of  heaven.”  This  can 
be  questioned  only  in  the  last  word;  a drug  store  may  not  be  the  gate  to 
heaven.  One  saloon  is  known  as  the  “Port  of  New  York,”  though  there  is 
nothing  in  it  which  resembles  New  York  in  any  way.  Another  is  more  appro- 
priately named;  it  is  called  “El  triunfo  del  diablo,”  the  triumph  of  the  devil. 
The  stores  are  named  for  cities  and  countries  and  have  fanciful  titles.  Other 
signs,  ending  in  indicate  the  wares  for  sale:  Zapateria,  shoes;  relojeria^ 

watches;  joyeria^  jewelry;  sastreria,  tailor;  bonneteria,  millinery;  panaderia, 
bakery,  and  plataria,s\\Ytr^N2irt.  The  goods  are  usually  in  a line  of  shelves 
running  parallel  with  the  street  and  very  near  the  doors,  so  they  can  be  seen 
by  the  passers-by.  The  clerks  stand  in  a line  behind  the  counter  like  a file  of 
soldiers.  Smoking  is  permitted  everywhere,  and  the  clerk  on  duty  enjoys 
his  cigarette  at  pleasure. 

The  prices  quoted  are  nearly  always  higher  than  it  is  expected  to  obtain, 
as  it  is  presumed  that  all  customers  will  want  to  “jew”  the  figure  down,  and 
the  sharp  driver  at  a bargain  usually  succeeds.  The  moral  of  which  is,  never 
give  the  first  price  quoted.  This  rule  applies  to  the  street  vender,  in  the 
flower  market,  the  markets,  and  the  shops  as  well,  but  the  larger  and  finer 
stores  do  not  practice  this  generally. 

There  are  many  very  fine  stores  in  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the  larger 
cities  that  will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  the  cities  in  other  countries, 
and  there  are  many  novel  features  to  make  a visit  interesting,  whether  you  buy 
or  not.  The  shopper  will  find  the  round  of  the  shops  even  more  fascinating 
than  among  the  bargain  counters  of  New  York  or  Chicago.  There  are  novel- 
ties to  look  over  that  are  not  anywhere  else.  Of  course  there  are  silks  and 
satins  and  all  that,  and  there  are  rebosos  of  cotton,  linen  and  silk,  and  tapalos 
and  mantillas  and  zerapes  that  are  not  to  be  found  in  New  York  or  Chicago, 
and  opals  and  bargains  in  antiquities  not  found  anywhere  in  the 
world,  to  make  shopping  in  Mexico  interesting. 

Cigars  and  Tobacco — He  never  chews,  but  the  Mexican  smokes  at  all 
times  and  under  all  circumstances.  Before  breakfast  and  after  breakfast,  before 
and  after  and  during  his  dinner,  and  between  the 
courses  he  rolls  and  smokes  his  cigarettes,  as  he  does 
when  he  goes  to  bed  and  when  he  gets  up.  Only 
when  he  sleeps  he  does  not  smoke.  The  men  do 
this,  but  the  ladies  do  not  smoke,  as  they  have  the 
credit  of  doing,  though  a gentleman  always  offers 
his  cigarettes  when  he  takes  one  himself.  Elderly 
ladies  enjoy  a cigarette,  and  occasionally  a ranchero 
(a  farmer)  and  his  wife  may  be  seen  smoking  in  the 
cars,  and  many  women  of  the  middle  or  lower  classes 
smoke  incessantly,  but  in  polite  society  it  is  not  the 
custom  among  the  women  to  smoke.  In  the  restau- 
rants and  hotels  smoking  is  permitted  in  the  dining- 
room, and  is  indulged  in.  In  the  churches  and 


50 


in  the  Pullman  cars  are  the  only  places  where  smoking  is  prohibited.  At 
all  other  places  it  is  permitted;  at  the  theater,  but  not  during  the  performance; 
at  the  circus  and  bull  fight  it  is  the  thing  to  do.  At  the  bull  fight  cigars, 
instead  of  bouquets,  are  thrown  to  the  toreadores. 

The  high  and  middle  grades  of  Mexican  cigars  are  better  than  the  domestic 
cigars  of  the  United  States,  and  their  best  cigars  are  far  better.  The  Mexican 
cigar  is  cheap,  but  the  imported  article  is  very  high.  Many  smokers  use 
cigars,  but  the  great  majority  use  cigarettes  made  of  native  tobacco,  which 
they  roll  dexterously.  It  is  advised  to  buy  only  the  brands  of  well-known 


makers,  and,  above  all  things,  avoid  the  peddler  and  street  venders;  buy  from 
first-class  stands  always. 

Matches  necessarily  go  with  the  smoker’s  outfit,  and  Mexican  matches  are 
the  best  in  the  world;  they  are  double-enders,  light  at  both  ends.  A stroke 
of  economy  goes  with  every  match — the  striking  of  the  other  end.  If  you 
are  asked  for  a light  the  unused  end  is  always  returned.  It  is  good  as  a 
picture  to  see  the  courtesy  and  politeness  exhibited  in  giving  and  taking  a 
light — the  wave  of  the  hand  in  thanks  and  the  return  of  the  match — and  another 
one  to  see  three  or  four  cigarettes  held  over  the  blaze  of  a single  match. 
The  community  of  interest  in  that  little  fire,  protected  from  the  blowing  out 
by  one  man’s  hand,  is  wonderful,  and  the  sociability  of  the  scene  pleasing  to 
a degree.  Some  other  man  of  some  other  race  might  have  blessed  the  man 
who  invented  sleep,  but  I think  every  Mexican  blesses  the  man  who  invented 
smoke. 


51 


Police  and  Military — The  police  are  not  as  hard  to  find  in  Mexico  as  in 
some  other  countries,  and  there  are  soldiers  everywhere,  not  as  a menace, 
but  as  a protection.  Time  was  when  bandit  tales  had  their  scenes  laid  in 
Mexico,  and  footpad  stories  told  of  her  cities,  but  that  is  ancient  history;  the 
rurales  of  the  country  districts,  the  police  and  military  in  the  towns  and  cities, 
have  been  regulators  that  regulated,  till  now  all  is  peace  and  protection. 

There  has  never  been  but  one  “hold  up”  of  a passenger  train  in  Mexico, 
and  that  by  American  border  thugs.  Train  robbers  are  ordered  to  be  shot 
on  the  spot  of  the  hold  up,  and  orders  are  obeyed  in  Mexico.  There  are  no 
dime  museums,  hence  the  bandits  must  necessarily  be  shot.  The  police  of 
the  cities  are  a well-trained,  disciplined  body  of  men,  and  always  within  call. 
In  the  City  of  Mexico  and  in  the  larger  cities  a policeman  stands  at  street 
intersections;  his  lantern  is  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  street,  and  the  long 
row  of  flickering  lights  up  and  down,  in  either  direction,  tells  of  the  watch- 


A WAYSIDE  FONDA. 


men  of  the  night,  who  watch  while  we  sleep.  Your  Mexican  policeman  never 
lets  the  wrong  man  go;  he  lets  no  guilty  man  escape;  in  case  of  altercation, 
dispute  or  difficulty  he  arrests  all  hands.  No  matter  what  occurs,  when  you 
are  asked  to  accompany  a policeman  to  the  '‘‘‘comiseria’’*  it  is  the  part  of  dis- 
cretion to  accede  to  his  request — no  harm  can  come  to  the  innocent  and  the 
matter  is  quickly  settled  by  the  officer  in  charge.  The  policeman  is  a soldier 
as  well,  and  almost  without  exception  is  courteous  and  obliging,  will  go  out 
of  his  beat  to  show  the  way  or  find  a place  for  you.  The  rule  to  go  to  the  right 
m walking  on  the  street  does  not  always  apply,  the  preferred  regulation  being 
to  give  ladies  and  your  friends  the  inside  both  in  walking  with  and  meeting 
them,  all  others  take  care  of  themselves  and  walk  where  they  can,  as  you  will 
find  it  necessary  to  do. 

The  streets  are  for  the  most  part  well  paved  and  lighted  and  kept  scrupu- 
lously clean  by  constant  sweeping.  Streets  and  sidewalks  are  very  narrow 
except  in  the  newer  districts. 


U.  OF  Ikk  LIB. 


62 


A national  feast  day  will  show  what  Mexican  soldiery  is;  a fine,  well- 
trained  body  of  men,  whose  pride  and  patriotism  is  to  be  applauded.  Of  the 
infantry,  artillery,  or  cavalry  the  rurales  are  the  pride  and  the  pink  of  the  ar  my. 

The  rurales  are  the  country  police,  mounted  on  the  finest  horses,  and  uni- 
formed in  the  most  picturesque  manner,  with  saddles  and  trappings  richly 
decorated.  The  men  are  fine  specimens  of  humanity,  stout  and  well  built,  wear- 
ing the  broad  sombrero  of  the  country,  a short  leathern  jacket  and  trousers 
braided  and  bedecked,  all  with  silver  braid  and  gold.  They  are  armed  to  the 
teeth  with  latest  improved  arms,  and  well  they  know  how  to  use  them,  for 
they  were  born  to  their  use  as  their  fathers  before  them.  The  first  corps 
of  the  rurales  was  recruited  from  the  bandits  of  the  country  in  the  seventies. 


THE  SOLDIERS. 

Among  other  reforms  instituted  by  President  Diaz  this  was  one  of  the  most 
important.  He  found  tribes  of  bandits  scattered  all  over  the  country  whose 
fathers  before  them  had  been  bandits — they  were  a fine  body  of  men,  who 
knew  every  hole  and  corner  of  the  country  and  could  not  easily  be  put  down. 
General  Diaz  offered  amnesty  and  to  organize  them  into  a corps  of  the  army, 
with  a regular  pay,  higher  than  any  other  cavalryman  in  any  of  the  armies 
of  the  world.  The  bandit  accepted  the  amnesty  and  became  a rural.  The  mili- 
tary education  and  army  regulation  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  United  States; 
the  West  Point  of  Mexico  is  at  Chapultepec;  the  officers’  grades  are  almost 
identical  with  those  of  the  United  States. 

The  Jefe  Politico  is  the  chief  political  officer  of  a district  comprising  sev- 
eral towns  or  villages;  under  him  is  the  Alcalde,  who  is  the  mayor  in  the 


53 


smaller  t6wns.  The  police  have  no  discretion  in  case  of  a quarrel  or  fight 
on  the  street  or  elsewhere;  all  hands  are  arrested  and  hurried  off  to  the  com- 
iseria;  every  man  is  presumed  guilty  until  he  proves  his  innocence. 

Doctors  and  Medicines — The  physicians  of  Mexico  rank  high  among  the 
doctors  of  the  world.  A great  many  of  them  speak  English  and  French,  and 
Spanish,  of  course.  There  are  physicians  from  Germany,  France  and  England 
and  the  United  States,  and  many  of  them  prominent  in  their  profession.  The 
country  is  healthy,  but  at  the  same  time  the  information  as  to  physicians  and 
medicines  is  essential,  and  one  need  not  be  in  Mexico  without  the  best  medical 
attendance. 

Cargadores — This  gentry  combines  the  usefulness  of  the  district  telegraph 
boy  and  street  porter.  They  are  strong,  heavy-built  men  that  carry  the  greatest 
weights,  from  a trunk  to  a piano;  they  meet  all  trains  and  are  in  and  about  the 
hotels  ready  to  take  the  place  of  an  expressman,  and  will  convey  baggage  or  do 
errands  of  any  kind.  The  men  are  trusty  and  reliable,  are  licensed  by  the 
City  Council,  and  carry  on  their  breasts  a brass  plate  with  the  number  of  their 
license.  The  tariff  varies  according  to  the  service  to  be  performed.  In  em- 
ploying a cargador  always  give  directions  explicitly;  better  write  them  down 
and  give  him  the  card.  Alwa}^s  take  the  number  of  his  tag. 

Church  Visiting — The  Mexican  venerates  the  very  walls  of  his  church; 
he  does  not  pass  in  front  of  it  without  removing  his  hat,  and  it  behooves  the 
visitor  to  respect  what  the  native  venerates.  It  is  not  advisable,  nor  is  it  nec- 
essary, to  follow  the  native  customs,  but  no  man  will  forget  himself  and  wear 
his  hat  in  the  church  or  treat  with  levity  what  the  others  may  do.  The  attend- 
ants in  the  churches  are  usually  very  courteous  and  willing  to  show  what- 
ever may  be  there  of  interest.  There  is  not  always  a fee  for  this  service,  but 
an  offering  for  the  poor  of  the  parish  is  always  acceptable.  It  is  a good  custom 
that  will  commend  you  to  these  people  to  make  a contribution,  however  small. 
In  the  towns  and  villages  throughout  this  country  the  best  information  may  be 
obtained  from  the  priest,  and  you  secure  his  good  will  by  calling  on  him  for  it. 
The  people  seeing  you  on  good  terms  with  the  padre  regard  you  as  a person 
of  importance,  and  will  join  in  their  attentions.  Without  exception  the  priests 
are  most  courteous  and  obliging,  and  will  often  put  themselves  out  for  your 
convenience. 

Postage  — The  rate  on  letters  from  Mexico  to  the  United  States  and 
Canada  is  5 cents  for  each  half  ounce  or  fraction  thereof;  to  all  points  in 
Mexico  the  rate  is  5 cents;  to  all  other  countries  in  the  postal  union  10  cents; 
Che  registry  fee  is  10  cents;  newspapers,  i cent  for  each  two  ounces  or  fraction 
thereof;  other  printed  matter,  i cent  per  ounce  and  three-fourths,  or  fraction 
thereof,  to  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and  2 cents  to  European  countries. 
The  limit  of  weight  of  printed  matter  is  4.4  pounds.  In  the  larger  cities  there 
is  a regular  system  of  delivery  by  carriers,  and  a letter  with  its  proper  address 
will  be  delivered  promptly. 

There  is  a printed  list  in  the  Post  Office,  posted  in  the  lobby,  announcing 
letters  on  hand  not  delivered;  these  lists  are  posted  daily.  Letters  from  the 
United  States  to  Mexico  are  2 cents  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof;  newspapers 
the  same  as  to  domestic  points. 

Express  Service — The  Wells-Fargo  Company  operate  over  the  Mexican 
Central  and  Sonora  Railways;  the  Mexican  National  operates  its  own  express 
line.  All  other  railroads  have  an  express  department  that  connects  with  the 
other  express  companies.  The  various  express  companies  in  the  United  States 
connect  with  those  of  Mexico. 

Telegrapll — The  Mexican  Government  owns  and  controls  a system  of 
telegraph  wires  reaching  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  various  railroad 


54 


companies  also  operate  commercial  wires  along  their  lines,  having  connection 
with  the  Western  Union  and  Postal  Telegraph  Companies  at  the  border.  The 
Cable  Company  has  wires  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  City  of  Mexico  and  sends 
messages  to  the  United  States  via  Galveston. 

Newspapers — -The  Mexican  Herald,  a daily  of  metropolitan  proportions 
and  style,  issued  every  morning,  is  printed  in  English.  Associated  Press 
and  special  dispatches  from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  printed  in  the  Herald. 
The  Mexican  Journal  of  Commerce  is  printed  in  English.  The  Mexican 
Financier,  a weekly  devoted  to  financial  and  commercial  interests,  is  printed 
in  both  English  and  Spanish,  parallel  columns.  All  the  American  dailies  of 


the  larger  cities  are 
and  also  the  latest 
The  Sonora  News 
trains  of  the  trunk 
icals  and  literature  of 


on  sale  at  the  various  news  stands, 
weeklies  and  magazines. 

Company  has  agents  on  all  first-class 
lines  in  Mexico,  with  the  latest  period- 
the  day. 

Among  the  daily  papers  printed  in 
the  Spanish  language  are  El  Universal, 
El  Popular,  El  Tiempo,  El  Imparcial, 
Correo  Espanoe,  El  Globo,  Imparcial,  El 
Mundo,  El  Hijo  del  Ahnizotl,  giving 
foreign  and  domestic  news;  these  and 
the  English  papers  mentioned 
are  published  in  the  City  of 
Mexico.  The  other  larger 
cities  of  the  Republic  all 
have  their  newspaper  publi- 
cations. 

Baths — In  the  smallest  vil- 
lages and  towns,  and  in  all 
of  the  larger  cities  are  un- 
usually good  baths.  They 
are  not  always  to  be  found 
in  the  hotels,  but  in  some 
central  location,  or  conveni- 
ent place  near  a street-car 
line.  As  a rule  the 
baths  are  good  and 
clean.  The  piece  of 
soap  furnished  is  just 
the  size  necessary  for 
a single  bath.  The 
A MILKMAN.  attendant  furnishes  this, 

together  with  towels,  comb,  brush  and  a small  bottle  of  oil,  presumably  for 
the  hair,  and  a wisp  of  the  fiber  called  ixtle,  all  of  which  is  included  in  the 
price,  which  varies  from  12^  to  25  cents. 

Servants — The  servants  in  the  hotels  and  restaurants  are  polite  and  atten- 
tive, which  politeness  and  attention  is  always  greatly  enhanced  by  a fee,  and 
which  is  always  expected.  They  are  not ''accustomed  to  large  fees,  and  a medio 
or  real  is  about  the  average;  this  custom  applies  also  to  the  hackmen,  who 
always  expect  this  in  addition  to  their  regular  fare. 

Dulces — The  dulces  of  Mexico  are  very  toothsome.  These  sweets  come 
from  Celaya,  Queretaro  and  Morelia,  places  most  famous  for  these  delicacies. 

Streets — An  effort  has  been  made  by  the  government  of  the  City  of 
Mexico  to  rename  the  streets  and  renumber  the  houses,  but  it  is  a difficult 


j 


65 

I 

matter  to  change  a name  that  has  been  known  for  centuries,  hence  the  old 
names  of  streets  are  still  in  use,  in  spite  of  city  ordinances  and  blue  enamel 
signs  proclaiming  the  new  ones.  The  new  system  is  as  intricate  as  the  old 
and  it  is  probable  that  only  a police  officer  or  cab  driver  is  conversant  with 
the  new.  The  changes  are  deemed  inadvised  for  many  reasons,  besides  that 
of  the  confusion  among  the  masses,  and  an  important  one  is  that  of  the  his- 
toric and  romantic  incident  that  gave  the  old  names  is  lost  sight  of  in  the  new, 
and  both  visitor  and  inhabitant  are  loth  to  part  with  those  so  full  of  interest. 
They  do  not  want  to  change  the  Calle  de  Revillagigedo,  even  if  it  is  hard  to 
pronounce,  for  South  street;  or  the  Avenida  de  los  Hombres  Ilustres,  the 
“avenue  of  illustrious  men,”  for  plain,  commonplace  Western  avenue.  I think 


ancient  street  names  were  not  sacrilegious  when  they  called  one  the  street  of 
the  Love  of  God,  Amor  de  Dios;  street  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  Espiritu  Santo ; or 
the  street  of  Jesus — probably  only  a trifle  overreligious,  as  what  we  would 
call  profanity  of  names,  the  Mexican  does  not  consider  in  that  light. 

Many  of  the  Saints’  names  are  given  to  the  streets  in  Mexico,  but  that 
is  done  in  all  countries,  and  it  is  explained  that  the  streets  named  for  the 
Deity  or  the  Saints  take  their  names  from  the  churches  located  on  or  near 
them.  Many  are  curiously  named,  as  the  Calle  Nino  Perdido^  street  of  the 
Lost  Child:  Indio  Priste^ih^  Sad  Indian;  but  as  many  record  names  and 
dates  of  history,  as  ‘‘Cinco  de  Mayo,’’ the  5th  of  May;  Juarez,  Hidalgo,  Com- 
monfort  and  Zaragoza.  A street  may  have  a dozen  names,  as  each  block 
often  has  a different  one,  but  if  one  name  is  continued  for  several  squares  a 
numeral  prefix  is  used,  as  ist  San  Francisco,  2nd  San  Francisco,  etc.  San 
Francisco  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  the  fashionable  down-town 


56 


A LUNCH  COUNTER. 


promenade,  extending  from  the  Alameda,  where  it 
is  called  the  Puente  de  San  Francisco,  and  ending 
at  the  Plaza  Mayor,  in  the  name  of  Plateros,  the 
intervening  blocks  being  called  ist  and  2nd  San 
Francisco. 

A reason  is  given — they  are  too  numerous 
to  quote — for  the  name  of  each  street;  that  of 
the  Sad  Indian  from  the  finding  of  the  quaint 
piece  of  sculpture,  El  Indio  Triste;  Cinco 
de  Mayo  is  named  for  the  battle  of  the  5th 
of  May,  1862,  and  the  defeat  of  the  French 
at  Puebla.  The  Calle  de  Revillagigedo  was 
named  for  erratic  old  Conde  and  Viceroy  of 
that  name,  whose  lively  administration  did 
so  much  to  improve  the  streets  of  the  City 
of  Mexico.  He  had  them  cleaned,  paved 
and  lighted. 

The  word  Puente,  or  abbreviation,  pte,, 
signifies  that  there  was  originally  a 
bridge  over  a canal  in  that  street. 
Calle  is  a street  and  Callejon  an 
alley  or  small  street;  Calzada,  cause- 
way; Rinconada,  corner,  and  Ave~ 
nida,  an  avenue;  Paseo,  a boulevard.  Under  the  new  system  the  streets  are 
numbered  north  and  south  and  the  avenues  also  numbered  cross  them  east  and 
west  at  right  angles;  it  is  difficult  for  the  novice  in  the  Spanish  language  to 
remember  these  numbers,  and  much  easier  to  recall  the  old  names.  A map 
may  be  of  assistance,  but  a cab  is  the  surest  way  to  find  a street  or  number. 

Customs  and  Costumes — I had  heard  of  the  courtesy  and  hos- 
pitality of  the  Spaniard,  and  remembered,  when  I entered  a Spanish 
home,  being  welcomed  and  told  “this  house  is  yours,”  and  when  I 
had  admired  some  object,  was  informed  that  it  was  mine;  when  I 
came  to  Mexico  I found  the  descendants  of  old  Spain  had  lost  no 
whit  of  cordiality,  and  the  welcome  at  place  of  business  or  the 
home,  was  warm  and  spontaneous  to  a degree.  Every  house 
was  mine,  all  that  was  in  it  my  own,  and  everybody  at  my 
orders. 

The  dress  of  the  Mexican  is  a picturesque  one,  of  which 
the  wide  somibrero  is  the  feature,  often  richly  trimmed  in  gold 
or  silver  lace,  with  a crest  or  monogram  on  the  crown.  This 
elaborate  head-gear  often  costs  fifty  to  sixty  dollars,  though 
a less  ornate  hat  may  be  bought  for  fifty  cents  without  a cor- 
responding decrease  in  size.  A short  jacket  coming  to  or  a 
little  below  the  waist  is  also  trimmed  in  gold  and  silver;  the 
tight-fitting  trousers,  wide  at  the  sharp-pointed  shoe,  have 
two  or  three  rows  of  gilt  buttons.  The  complete  costume 
always  includes  a zerape  of  many  colors;  a zerape  is  a 
blanket  or  shawl  worn  over  the  shoulders,  thrown  in  a knightly 
fashion,  with  the  fringed  and  tasseled  end  over  the  left  shoulder. 

Men  of  all  classes  wear  the  zerape.  Overcoats  are  almost 
unknown,  except  among  the  better  classes.  The  principal  am 
favorite  part  of  a costume  is  the  sombrero.  A Mexican 
may  go  barefooted,  and  wear  cotton  trousers,  but  he’ll 
have  a thirty-dollar  hat  if  he  can  get  it-  The  man  on 


57 


horseback  in  Mexico  is  a symphony  in  gold  lace  and  buttons, 
and  the  trappings  of  his  horse  and  saddle  are  most  elaborate. 
There  are  dudes  in  Mexico.  They  call  a dude  ''un 
lagartijo^'*  He  wears  the  most  gold  lace  and  buttons,  the 
tightest  trousers  and  the  widest  hat.  In  other  respects 
e differs  not  from  the  dude  of  other  countries,  and  further 
space  need  not  be  wasted  here. 

For  ladies  of  high  degree,  the  Spanish  mantilla  of 
black  or  white  lace  still  does  a fascinating  duty  in  place 
of  the  hat  or  bonnet,  and  the  Spanish  costume  from 
shoulder  to  high-heeled  pointed  slipper.  The  middle  classes 
wear  a black  tapalo^  a shawl  which  is  both  wrap  and  head- 
gear.  The  lower  classes  and  Indian  maidens  wear  in  the 
.same  way  a scarf  of  cotton,  usually  blue  or  brown;  this  is 
the  reboso,  Mexican  women  are  • almost  without  excep- 
tion of  fine  form,  healthy  and  robust.  There  are  thousands 
of  pretty  faces,  of  richest  color,  long  lashes,  soft  and  downy 
ear-locks,  black  as  jet,  and  with  long,  inky  black  hair. 
Under  the  tapalo  or  reboso  is  many  a Venus;  the  corset 
is  unknown,  and  nature  forms  to  perfection. 

Ladies  embrace  each  other  at  meeting,  and  kiss  on 
the  cheek.  Men  embrace  their  friends,  and  pat  each 
other  on  the  back.  In  passing  on  the  street,  instead 
of  saying  “How’dy,”  they  say  ‘‘Adios — Good-by.” 
Other  salutations  are:  Before  noon  it  is  buenos  dias; 

after  noon,  buenos  tardes;  after  dark,  buenas  noches. 
Politeness  and  courtesy  are  characteristic  of  Mexico,  and  it  is  seen  con- 
stantly everywhere;  a Mexican  will  not  enter  a door  or  pass  up  a staircase 
ahead  of  his  companion  without  an  insisting  *‘‘Pase  sehorp  urgently  put, 
till  it  ■ ' ^ . 


IS  seen 
precedence. 

Following 
young  people 


that 


must  go  first,  and  then  age  or  rank,  or  guest  takes 


the  customs  of  their  ancestors,  the 
of  Mexico  have  not  that  freedom  of 
association  as  in  America.  A young  lady  may  not 
indulge  in  the  society  of  her  young  man  except  in 
the  presence  of  others;  in  fact,  he  may  not  even 
call  upon  her,  as  in  this,  or  other  English  speaking 
countries.  He  must  win  her  by  haciendo  del  oso — 
playing  bear.  This  does  not  mean  that  the  young 
man  indulges  in  any  idiosyncrasies  of  the  bear, 
when  he  (the  bear)  catches  a victim.  At  a certain 
hour  in  the  day  the  devoted  lover  comes 
under  the  lady’s  window,  and  when  she 
comes  to  the  casement  he  may  stand 
and  look  at  her,  exchange  glances,  smiles 
and  nods,  go  away  and  come  back  again 
to-morrow  and  do  it  all  over  again.  Any- 
where else  this  would  seem  to  be  flirtation 
itself,  but  here  in  Mexico  it  is  “playing 
the  bear,”  and  is  perfectly  proper.  If  he 
is  faithful  and  keeps  this  up  for  two  or 
three  years,  he  may  finally  be  allowed  to 
call  and  see  her  in  the  presence  of  another 
member  of  the  family.  If  all  goes 


58 

smoothly  they  “marry  and  live  happy  to  the  end  of  their  days,”  as  in  the 
fairy  story. 

They  are  a music-loving  people,  whose  souls  are  moved  by  a concord  of 
sweet  sounds,  and  if  love  of  niusic  is  the  test,  few  Mexicans  are  fit  for  treason, 
stratagems  and  spoils.  No  jacal  is  too  humble  but  what  its  adobe  walls  listen 
to  the  tinkle  of  the  guitar,  and  no  village  so  small  but  its  band  of  native 
musicians  will  play  in  the  little  alameda  in  the  evenings.  In  the  larger  towns 
and  great  cities  there  is  music  in  some  plaza  or  park  every  day  by  the  mili- 
tary bands — an  example  set  by  the  Government  in  giving  the  people  music, 
that  might  be  emulated  by  the  United  States  greatly  to  its  credit. 

There  are  fiddlers  in  Mexico  and  some  violinists.  The  fiddlers  sometimes 
come  under  the  car  window  of  a passing  train,  and  in  hopes  of  a centavo 


A COUNTRY  LAUNDRY. 


thrown,  give  samples  of  native  music.  There  are  some  who  carp  at  these 
crude  musicians,  but  they  are  those  who  do  not  appreciate  fiddling  as  a fine 
art,  or  the  difficulties  thereof.  Themistocles  said  he  “could  not  fiddle,  but 
he  could  make  a small  town  a great  city,”  proving  that  the  attainment  of 
proficiency  in  fiddling  is  attended  by  hard  work.  When  the  weird  sounds 
come  into  your  window  let  the  centavitas  go,  for  whatever  work  the  player 
may  not  have  done,  he  has  learned  to  fiddle. 

There  is  music  everywhere,  there’s  music  in  the  air,  a music  peculiar  to 
the  country  and  the  people,  a music  of  song,  of  stringed  and  wind  instru- 
ments that  plays  at  morning,  noon  and  night.  There  are  songs  of  praise  and 
songs  of  mirth,  and  love  songs. 

There  are  songs  of  home.  The  people  have  their  “Home,  sweet  home” 
in  the  notes  of  La  Golondrina.  Since  music,  heavenly  maid,  was  young,  she 
hath  not  ceased  to  soothe  the  heart  of  savage  and  civilized  man,  and  her 
songs  of  home  have  been  sweetest  and  dearest  to  his  ear.  That  song  of 
“Home,  sweet  home”  is  one  that  touches  the  American  heart,  as  La  Golon- 
drina melts  the  Mexican  and  brings  memories  of  his,  whether  it  be  of  adobe 


59 


or  of  stone.  Whether  the  soft  melodies  are  picked  from  the  strings  of  a 
guitar,  or  sehorita  sweetly  sings  the  touching  notes,  or  organized  orchestra 
fills  the  ambient  air  with  its  tuneful  tones,  all  there  is  of  sentiment  even  in 
the  stoutest,  sternest  heart,  wells  up  in  tenderness  when  the  home  song’s 
music  greets  the  ear,  brighter,  glistening  eyes  and  quicker  heart  throbs  tell 
that  the  melody  strikes  the  soul. 

Official  Permits — Permits  or  passes  are  required  to  visit  the  various  pub- 
lic institutions,  such  as  the  Palace  of  Chapultepec,  the  National  Palace,  etc. 
They  are  obtained  from  the  Governor  of  the  Palace,  who  is  very  courteous 
and  obliging.  When  visiting  an  hacienda  or  for  the  ascent  of  Popocatepetl, 
permits  should  be  obtained  from  the  owners,  most  of  whom  reside  in  the  city. 

Laundries — The  laundry  as  it  exists  in  this  country  has  not  been  es- 
tablished in  all  the  cities  in  Mexico.  Where  there  are  no  steam  laundries 
the  bell  boy  on  your  floor  of  the  hotel  is  agent  for  numerous  and  sundry 
lava7ideras,  washerwomen  of  more  or  less  proficiency,  but  who  in  the  main 
do  very  satisfactory  work.  The  bell  boy  will  attend  to  all  details,  and  the 
linen  delivered  to  him  will  be  safely  returned.  Lists  should  be  retained  and 
checked  with  the  returned  articles,  and  any  missing  pieces  will  be  looked 
up;  rarely  is  anything  lost  through  these  people,  and  their  work  is,  for  the 
most  part,  promptly  and  carefully  done.  Prices  are  about  the  same  as  in 
cities  of  the  same  size  in  other  countries. 

Banks — The  system  of  banking  in  Mexico  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the 
United  States  and  other  countries.  There  are  many  reliable  institutions  under 
Mexican,  American  and  English  management,  with  correspondents  in  all  parts 
of  the  world.  Bank  drafts,  letters  of  credit,  and  all  classes  of  foreign  exchange 
received  and  issued  and  foreign  money  bought  and  sold. 


60 


A HOLIDAY  DRESS  OF  TEHUANTEPEC,  MEXICO 


Aftiusettients. 


Teatro  Principal — In  the  old  Aztec  days,  the  days  when  the  gladi- 
ators fought  before  Tzins  of  Tenochtitlan,  there  had  not  been  any  dearth 
of  amusement  for  the  people  of  the  ancient  capital,  and  as  the  pagan  priests 
of  those  days  incited  the  warriors  to  combat  with  the  victim  prisoners  for 
the  honor  of  their  gods,  so  the  priests  of  later  times  were  the  promoters  of 
more  modern,  but  less  bloody  amusement,  and  the  church  was  responsible 
for  the  building  of  the  first  theater  in  the  City  of  Mexico.  The  Brothers 
of  the  Order  of  San  Hipolito,  to  raise  funds  for  the  benefit  of  the  Hospital 
Real,  erected  a small  wooden  building  and  employed  a company  of  players 
who  gave  the  initial  performance  on  the  evening  of  January  19th,  1722. 

The  play  on  the  first  program  was  “The  Ruin  and  Burning  of  Jerusalem.” 
History  gives  no  details  of  the  success  of  the  performance  and  we  are  left 
in  the  dark  as  to  the  names  of  “the  star”  and  his  support,  but  we  are  in- 
formed that  the  Burning  of  Jerusalem  resulted  in  the  burning  of  the  theater, 
a consummation  that  was  looked  upon  by  the  natives  as  a direct  visitation 
of  Heaven  for  the  unholy  method  taken  to  obtain  money  for  a holy  cause. 
The  piece  underlined  for  the  second  evening  was  “Here  Was  Troy,”  but 
there  was  no  theater  and  the  performance  was  indefinitely  postponed.  Noth- 
ing daunted,  the  energetic  brethren  of  Hipolito  immediately  set  about  building 
another  theater, ^ and  in  1725  erected  a third  building  in  the  street  now  known 
as  Coliseo  Viejo,  and  in  1752  the  building  the  Teatro  Principal  was  com- 

61 


62 


menced  and  was  completed  in  the  next  year  on  Christmas  Day,  and  opened 
with  the  appropriately  named  comedy  “Better  It  Is  Than  It  Was.” 

Up  to  that  time  the  theater  was  the  property  of  the  Hospital  Real,  and 
continued  in  that  possession  until  the  institution  ceased  to  exist,  when  it 
was  conveyed  to  the  College  of  San  Gregorio  by  an  order  dated  October 
nth,  1824,  where  the  title  remained  till  1846,  when  it  became  private  prop- 
erty. 

For  many  years  the  entrance  to  the  old  theater  could  be  seen  under  the 
portales,  but  it  has  disappeared,  as  has  much  of  the  original  building^,  but 
the  old  walls  remain,  except  in  the  facade,  which  is  of  recent  construction. 
The  interior  arrangement,  though,  shows  the  massive  style  of  architecture 
of  the  olden  times,  with  the  thick  stone  walls  around  the  parquet  and 
between  the  boxes  and  stalls,  and  although  you  may  not  understand  the 
language  of  the  players  it  may  be  worth  your  while  to  visit  the  ancient  play 
house  and  oldest  theater  in  Mexico.  The  leading  attractions  are  not  shown 
at  the  Principal  but  it  is  eminently  respectable,  and  while  the  audiences 
are  not  composed  entirely  of  the  best  people  you  will  be  in  tolerable  corh- 
pany  as  at  the  average  theater  of  to-day. 

The  National  Theater,  which  was  the  grand  opera  house  of  the  Mexican 
capital,  has  been  torn  down  to  make  way  for  the  opening  of  the  Calle  de  Cinco 
de  Mayo,  the  street  that  is  to  run  from  the  Cathedral  to  the  Alameda.  The 
national  government  is  to  build  a magnificent  opera  house  and  theater  in  the 
block  between  San  Francisco  and  Mariscala — fronting  on  the  Alameda  and 
San  Francisco  Street; 

The  Reuacimieiito  Theatre  on  the  Calle  de  Puerta  Falsa  de  San  Andres 
is  the  fashionable  theater  at  this  writing,  and  will  be  until  the  National  Theater 
is  completed.  The  Renacimiento  has  a seating  capacity  of  1,800  to  2,000  people. 
Here  may  be  found  Italian  and  French  opera,  as  well  as  Mexican  and  Spanish 
dramatic  art. 

In  most  Mexican  theaters  you  may  pay  for  and  see  one  act  or  the  whole 
show  at  25  cents  per  act,  or  tanda,  as  it  is  called.  A collector  passes  through 
the  audience  after  the  first  act  to  collect  for  the  second. 

Between  the  acts  those  of  the  male  persuasion  who  do  not  “go  out  to  see  a 
man”  put  on  their  hats  and  stand  in  their  places,  surveying  the  audience.  Smok- 
ing is  not  allowed  as  formerly,  and  cigarettes  are  relegated  to  the  foyer.  The 
lormiettes  of  the  ladies  have  their  busy  time  at  this  period  of  the  performance. 

The  Arbeu  Theater  is  in  the  street  of  San  Felipe;  it  was  opened 
in  1875.  The  Hidalgo  Theater  is  in  the  Calle  Corchero.  These  are  the  thea- 
ters of  the  middle  classes,  cor^sidered  respectable,  but  the  performances  are 
not  always  of  a high  order,  and  they  are  the  places  for  the  carnival  balls. 

Salon  De  Conciertos  is  the  hall  for  concerts  in  the  Conserva- 
tory of  Music,  where  high-class  concerts  by  students,  and  social  performances 
are  given.  It  has  an  auditorium  with  full  theatric  and  operatic  facilities,  and 
is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  city. 

Circo-Teatro  Orriii  is  a circus  theater,  as  its  name  indicates.  It 
is  the  outgrowth  of  the  circus  of  the  Orrin  Brothers,  formerly  housed  in  a 
tent  on  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo,  and  moved  to  the  present  handsome 
iron  building  that  cost  $100,000  on  the  Plazuela  Villamil.  Here  is  a theater 
and  circus  merged  in  one.  The  ring  is  surrounded  by  a dress  circle  and 
tier  of  private  boxes,  beyond  which  is  a circle  of  gallery  seats,  and  when 
the  ring  is  not  in  use  the  space  serves  as  a parquet,  in  front  of  which  is  a 
very  pretty  stage,  with  the  circus  performers’  entrances  on  each  side  of  the 
orchestra.  The  ring  may  be  transformed  into  a miniature  lake,  deep  enough 
to  float  canoes,  small  sail  and  steamboats,  or  it  may  be  made  into  a palace 


63 


while  you  wait,  and  from  the  region  beyond  the  curtain  may  come  in  a 
tiny  coach  of  state  the  Prince  and  Cinderella,  a pretty  transformation,  in 
full  view  of  the  audience,  one  of  the  novelties  for  which  the  management  is 
noted.  The  winter  months  are  the  season  for  the  circus,  while  light  opera 
holds  the  boards  during  the  summer,  but  at  all  times  there  are  novelties 
worthy  of  the  metropolitan  amusement  places  of  greater  cities. 

The  Orrins  have  long  been  Tcnown  for  their  liberality  and  many  chari- 
ties, giving  frequent  benefits  for  charitable  institutions,  hospitals,  both  native 
and  foreign.  Fashionable  and  gala  performances  are  of  frequent  occurrence, 
then  there  are  handsome  decorations  of  bunting  and  flowers.  The  boxes  are 
profusely  ornamented,  corsage  bouquets  and  boutonnierres  are  presented  to 


the  occupants,  who,  in  coming  to  their  places,  have  literally  walked  on  roses, 
and  on  state  occasions  the  President  attends.  His  private  box  is  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  box  tier,  is  always  reserved  for  his  use,  and  never  occupied  by 
anyone  else;  it  may  be  recognized  as  always  adorned  with  the  national  colors. 
The  Circo-Teatro  Orrin  is  easily  the  most  popular  resort  in  the  capital. 

Ball  Games  are  popular  in  Mexico,  and  fine  buildings  called  “Frontons'^ 
are  erected  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  in  which  are  played  a Spanish  va- 
riety of  handball  or  basket  ball.  Performances  are  given  under  electric  lights 
in  the  evening  in  addition  to  the  afternoon  games.  Baseball  and  cricket  have 
their  votaries,  but  mostly  among  the  American  and  English  colonies. 

Races  at  the  Indianilla  and  Penon  tracks  are  under  the  direction  of  the 
racing  association  and  of  the  Jockey  Club. 

Bull  Fights — The  spirit  of  Tauromachy  inherited  from  old  Spain  lives 
in  the  most  popular  amusement  of  Mexico,  that  is  if  it  may  be  called  an 


64 


^^anuiseiiient’’  and  if  we  call  it  “popularity”  that  enjoys  the  largest  patron- 
age. An  honest  effort  has  been  made  by  the  government  to  stop  the  cruel 
sport  by  the  enactment  of  laws  interdicting  the  functions  in  the  Federal 
District  and  other  metropolitan  localities,  but  the  laws  were  repealed  as 
often  as  enacted,  so  great  was  the  pressure  of  popular  demand  from  the 
masses,  and  notwithstanding  the  influence  and  example  of  non-attendance 
of  the  best  people,  the  Plaza  de  Toros  is  easily  the  most  popular  amusement 
in  Mexico. 

“The  better  the  day  the  better  the  deed”  may  not  be  a Mexican  maxim, 
but  the  better  days  are  given  over  to  the  bull  fight.  Sundays  and  feast  days 
are  chosen,  and  on  no  other  day  are  the  plazas  open. 


AT  THE  BULL  FIGHT. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  is  the  bull  ring — a great  circular  building  of  stone 
or  wood  with  an  interior  that  is  an  immense  amphitheater  seating  thousands 
of  people.  The  seats  are  in  tiers  rising  to  the  top  where  the  private  boxes 

are,  and  as  there  is  no  roof  except  over  the  outer  circle  shading  the  boxes, 

there  is  a shady  side  o.2X\€A‘^sombra'*'*  and  a sunny  side,  ‘‘soip  with  prices  in 
accordance  with  the  location,  from  25  to  50  cents  in  the  sun  and  $i  to  $3  in 

the  shade,  the  private  boxes  with  eight  to  ten  chairs  cost  from  $12  to  $20 

according  to  the  reputation  of  the  company  giving  the  performance,  as  they 
vary  greatly  as  the  stars  and  support  in  a theatrical  troup,  and  what  may  be 
the  price  when  only  local  talent  are  on  the  bills  will  be  largely  increased 
when  a star  matador  and  his  company  are  underlined.  Tickets  may  be 
bought  at  the  gates,  but  it  is  always  best  to  buy  them  in  advance,  usually 


65 


on  sale  at  some  cigar  store  frequented  by  the  toreadores  or  at  the  city  offices 
of  the  bull  ring,  the  locations  of  which  are  announced  in  the  advertisements. 

The  ring  itself  is  an  arena  about  a hundred  feet  in  diameter  encircled  by 
a strong  board  fence  about  five  feet  high  with  a foot  rail  on  the  inside  two 
feet  from  the  ground.  This  is  to  assist  a torero  too  closely  pursued  by  the 
bull  to  escape  by  a leap  over  the  fence  to  the  passage  way  that  extends 
around  the  ring  between  the  fence  and  the  seats.  But  it  is  not  always  an 
escape,  since  the  bull  often  leaps  the  barrier  in  pursuit  of  his  tormentor  or 
to  get  away  from  him,  and  at  intervals  in  the  passage  way  short  barriers 
are  placed  just  far  enough  from  the  wall  to  admit  the  body  of  the  man 
and  not  wide  enough  for  the  bull’s  horns.  There  are  gates  that  open  into 
the  ring  and  at  the  same  time  close  the  passage  and  thus  the  bull  is  forced 

to  return  to  the  ring. 
There  is  a “president”  to 
preside  at  each  corrida  or 
performance,  to  direct  the 
details  and  to  decide  all 
differences  of  opinion  be- 
tween the  people  and  the 
performers.  There  are  al- 
ways questions  to  be  de- 
cided, and  the  president, 
usually  a state  or  municipal 
officer,  must  be  a man  of 
COMING  OF  THE  coMPANY.^  ^ executive  ability  and  well 

posted  in  tauromachy.  His  seat  is  in  a gorgeously  decorated  box  near  the 
center  of  the  shady  side,  and  when  he  enters,  with  a staff  of  high-up,  well- 
known  lovers  of  the  sport,  it  is  the  signal  for  much  cheerinjg,  especially  so  if 
he  is  a president  whose  decisions  have  been  favorable  to  the  people. 

The  president  has  the  general  direction  of  the  corrida,  when  he  is  ready 
the  company  must  be,  and  when  he  has  given  his  permission  for  the  bulls 
to  be  killed  then  the  killing  commences.  A bugler 
stands  at  the  president’s  side  to  call  the  signals  to 
remove  the  horses,  or  a bull  that  may  prove  too 
tame,  to  call  the  banderilleros  and  announce  the 
killing  of  the  bull.  Hence  it  may  be  seen  how 
easily  a president  may  be  popular  or  unpopular 
with  the  masses,  as  he  may  or  may  not  give  them 
quite  enough  of  bloody  action  on  the  scene.  Any 
deviation  from  the  program  must  be  with  the  con- 
sent and  approval  of  the  president,  and  the  per- 
formance cannot  end  until  he  is  satisfied  that  the 
advertisement  has  been  carried  out.  There  is  music 
by  one  or  more  brass  bands  that  may  be  heard  by 
those  sitting  very  near,  but  the  shouts  and  cat-calls 
of  the  canaille  drown  all  semblance  of  music  for 
those  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  arena,  but  the 
musicians  are  there  and  you  can  see  when  they  are 
playing.  A company  of  soldiers  stationed  within 
call  of  the  president  with  another  company  deployed 
about  the  arena  to  do  police  duty,  and  try  to  pre- 
vent the  too  enthusiastic  members  of  the  audience 
from  taking  charge  of  the  whole  thing,  throwing 
the  seats  into  the  ring,  or  other  mild  methods 


THE  PICADOR. 


66 


ENTRANCE  OF  BULL. 


of  evincing  their  disapproval  of  an  act  or  presidential 
decision.  The  soldiers  are  rarely  called  into  active 
service;  their  presence  has  a wholesome  effect,  and 
while  the  mad  enthusiast  who  would  like  to  see  a horse 
gored  just  once  more,  and  gets  madder  because  the 
president  says  there  has  been  enough  of  it,  feels  like 
fighting  the  whole  company,  he  is  usually  pacified  by 
a gentle  touch  on  his  shoulder  by  the  gendarme  and 
growlingly  subsides. 

The  scene  is  a brilliant  one  and  the  tension  of  nerves 
is  great  in  anticipation  of  what  is  to  come,  the  feeling 
is  one  of  amazement  and  anxious  expectation.  The 
bands  are  playing,  or  seem  to  be,  and  the  thousands  of 
impatient  spectators  are  shouting,  whistling  and  yelling  themselves  hoarse. 
There  may  be  five  thousand  people, 
but  there  is  noise  enough,  and  seats 
too,  for  twenty  thousand,  and  if  there 
is  a star  matador  they  will  all  be 
occupied.  The  president  and  his 
companions  are  in  their  places,  and 
the  applause  grows  greater  as  the 
gates  on  the  other  side  of  the  arena 
open  to  admit  a gaily  costumed 
horseman  mounted  on  a splendid 
horse;  he  is  the  alguazil;  he  rides 
directly  to  the  front  of  the  president’s 
box  and  asks  permission  to  kill  the 
bulls.  Permission  granted,  the  presi- 
dent tosses  to  him  the  key  of  the 
toril^  which  he  catches,  and  gallops 
back  to  receive  the  company.  If  he 
catches  the  key  there  is  applause;  if 
he  misses  it,  a storm  of  hisses.  The 
gate  opens  again  and  the  coming  of 
the  gay  company  is  loudly  an- 
nounced with  a grand  flourish  of 
trumpets.  It  is  a brilliant  spectacle,  this  company  of  nimble-footed  athletes 
in  costumes  of  silk  and  satin,  gold  and  velvet,  as  they  march  quickly  across 

the  arena  to  make  their  obeis- 
ance to  the  president  and  then 
to  the  audience.  First  in  the 
gay  procession  come  the  mata- 
dores  or  espadas^  the  stars  of 
the  company,  who  handle  the 
swords  to  the  death  of  the 
bulls;  next  the  banderilleros, 
second  only  to  the  matadores 
in  the  profession;  these  gen- 
tlemen are  they  who  place  the 
banderillas  in  the  bull’s  shoul- 
ders, and  then  the  capeadores, 
third  in  rank,  who  hope  to  be 
banderilleros  and  some  day 
PLACING  THE  BANDERILLAS.  matadoves,  but  HOW  liave  only 


ATTACK  OF  THE  PICADOR. 


67 


to  manipulate  the  capes  to  distract  the  bull’s 
attention  or  place  him  in  proper  position  for 
the  banderilla  or  the  sword.  The  picadores 
follow  on  horseback,  their  long  lances  in  hand. 

Then  four  mules,  gaily  caparisoned,  harnessed 
together  and  driven  to  an  arrangement  of 
traces  for  dragging  out  dead  bulls  and  horses. 

Behind  these,  two  men  with  wheelbarrows; 
shovels,  rakes  and  brooms,  for  cleaning  up 
the  ring,  and  then  the  attendants,  ^^sabios 
monos, iht  wise  monkeys,  as  they  are  called 
from  their  good  suggestion  and  advice  to  the 
performers — diestros,  toreros  or  toreadores, 
as  the  bull-fighters  are  called.  The  toreador 
is  recognized  on  the  street  by  a costume  as 
distinctly  his  own  as  the  one  of  silk  and  satin,  bursting  the  barrier. 

gold  and  velvet  that  he  wears  in  the  ring;  it  is  a short  “round-about”  jacket 
with  very  tight  trousers;  the  hat  has  a straight  stiff  brim  with  a low  flat  top 
felt  crown;  under  the  rim  of  the  hat  is  a little  queue  of  plaited  hair,  called 
a coleta;  what  this  is  for  does  not  appear,  but  if  any  offense  against  the  ethics 
of  the  sport  is  committed  this  queue  is  cut  off,  so  the  possession  of  it  may 
be  regarded  as  a reward  of  merit,  that  when  a torero  is  retired  is  cut  off  with 
a scissors  of  gold. 

Proceeding  to  the  president’s  box,  and  having  received  his  acknowl- 
edgments, the  company  parades  around  the  arena  to  receive  the  plaudits  of 
the  people. 

Now  all  is  ready,  the  beautiful  capes  of  satin  and  velvet  are  thrown  to 
admirers  in  the  audience,  for  it  is  an  honor  to  hold  a toreador’s  cape;  as  they 
are  not  used  in  the  ring,  cheaper  and  stronger  capes  of  bright-colored  oil- 
cloth are  taken  instead.  Every  one  except  the  toreros  have  left  the  ring 
and  for  a brief  moment  there  is  complete  silence.  The  bugle  sounds.  All 
eyes  are  turned  to  a low  door  on  the  other  side  that  is  suddenly  thrown  open. 
From  a dark  stall  beyond  the  bull  is  coming.  As  he  passes  under  the  rail 
a barbed  steel  point  covered  with  flowing  ribbons  is  placed  in  his  shoulder; 
the  colors  of  these  ribbons  indicate  the  ranche  or  hacienda  from  whence  he 

came,  as  the  bulls  are  bred  on  cer- 
tain farms  for  their  fighting  quali- 
ties, and  your  smallest  sport  can 
pick  out  a good  fighter  when  he 
sees  the  ribbons  as  easily  as  a 
Kentucky  boy  does  the  winner  in  a 
horse  race  by  the  colors  of  the 
jockey’s  jacket.  The  bull  comes 
from  a dark  stall  where  he  has  been 
kept  previous  to  the  fight,  finding 
the  gates  suddenly  opened  and  a 
possible  way  of  escape,  gallops 
through  a scarcely  less  dark  passage 
that  leads  him  to  the  open  arena 
and  to  certain  death.  Startled  by 
the  pricking  of  the  steel  dart  in 
his  shoulder  and  maddened  by  its 
stinging  he  bounds  forward  to  the 
LEAPING  THE  BARRIER.  Center  of  the  ring,  where,  with  head 


68 


PLAY  OF  THE  CAPES. 


Up  and  tail  lashing  the  air,  he  stops  a 
second.  It  is  a magnificent  sight  now 
before  the  carnage  begins.  The  splen- 
did animal  stands  and  bids  defiance  as 
he  throws  the  dust  over  his  back,'? 
pawing  and  shaking  his  shaggy  head 
with  mingled  rage,  surprise,  and  fear, 
perhaps  but  little  of  fear,  for  in  a 
second  he  has  decided  upon  a plan  of 
attack.  The  shouting  thousands  and 
the  blare  of  trumpets  would  frighten 
a more  fearless  beast,  but  if  it  scares 
the  bull  there  is  no  hint  of  it  in  his 
action.  A look  to  right  or  left  and  the 
unequal  fight  is  on.  The  throwing 
of  a cape  in  front  of  him  and  the  thrower  is  chased  to  the  barrier  around 
the  ring  and  the  man  is  over  it  none  too  quickly,  as  he  may  believe  when  he 
hears  the  boards  cracking  behind  him  as  a pair  of  sharp  horns  are  thrust 
through  them  as  if  they  were  paper.  Foiled  here,  the  bull  turns  about  and 
finds  a horse  in  his  way,  a poor  broken  down  horse,  with  eyes  blindfolded  that 
he  may  not  see  his  danger.  There  is  no  way  of  escape  for  the  horse,  his 
rider  spurs  him  on,  and  while  the  picador  with  his  lance  may  for  a moment 
turn  the  bull  and  save  the  horse,  it  is  but  deferring  the  inevitable  for  the 
time.  Passing  by  this  horse  the  bull  finds  another  on  the  other  side;  this 
time  the  horse  does  not  fare  so  well;  the  bull  rushes  upon  him  with  all  his 
might,  the  sharp  horns  sink  into  his  flesh  as  needles  into  a piece  of  cloth, 
the  horse  is  lifted  bodily  into  the  air  and  tossed  over  on  the  ground  with  the 
rider  underneath  perhaps. 

A capeador  throws  a cape  over  the  bull’s  face,  distracts  his  attention  from 
the  fallen  picador  and  wounded,  or  more  probable,  dead,  horse.  The  capeador 
deftly  leads  him  to  the  other  horse  that  just  now  escaped,  but  now  his 
time  has  come,  the  bull  has  learned  that  the  horse  is  defenseless,  the  prick- 
ing of  the  picadoTs  lance  is  nothing.  While  it  is  intended  that  the  bull  should 
be  . held  off  and  the  horse  saved  it  is  rarely  done,  and  this  one  is  disem- 
boweled— it  may  be  that  if  he  does  not  die  in  his  tracks  he  is  ridden  on 
around  the  ring  dragging  his  intestines  under  his  feet,  only  to  be  gored 
again  and  again  till  he  is  dead,  for  without  the  blood  of  the  horses  no  bull 
fight  is  complete.  The  two  horses  slain,  or  so  badly  disabled  that  they 
cannot  be  ridden,  the  bugle  sounds,  and  unless  the  president  panders  to 
the  clamor  of  the  crowd  for  more  horses  the  first  act  with  the  first  bull  is 
over  and  the  handerilleros  are  ready. 

Now  comes  the  really  artistic  and  interesting  feature  of  the  bull  fight, 
the  placing  of  the  banderillas.  The  banderilla  is  a dart  about  two  feet  long 
with  a sharp  barbed  point  and  covered  with  fancy  colored  paper  or  rib- 
bons. The  banderillero,  a man  without  cape  or  means  of  defense,  takes 
two  banderillas^  one  in  each  hand,  walks  out  in  front  of  the  bull,  holding 
them  up,  shaking  the  ribbons  to  call  the  bull  towards  him,  and  as  he  ap- 
proaches the  darts  are  placed  in  his  shoulders  where  the  barbs  cause  them 
to  hang  as  if  they  were  for  ornaments  instead  of  goads  to  further  rage 
and  madness.  The  man  is  an  athlete  and  a nimble  one.  It  is  the  rule  that 
the  darts  must  not  be  thrust  except  while  the  bull  is  in  action  and  on  the  at- 
tack, so  it  must  be  done  quickly.  It  is  said  that  the  bull  in  the  'moment 
of  attack  closes  his  eyes,  so  it  is  but  a quick  decision  of  the  instant  to  thrust 
the  darts,  step  to  one  side,  and  the  bull  passes  by,  only  to  find  another  ban- 


69 


derillero  on  the  other  side  with  another  pair  of  banderillas  for  his  further 
decoration.  Another  rule  is  that  the  banderillas  must  not  be  placed  back 
of  the  shoulder.  If  they  are  properly  placed  and  so  firmly  that  they  are 
not  shaken  out,  loud  and  long  is  the  applause,  otherwise  the  hisses  are  shrill 
and  sharp.  The  banderillero  is  a favorite  with  the  lover  of  tauromachy  as 
well  as  with  the  first-timers  at  the  fight.  It  seems  with  his  lack  of  defense, 
and  depending  entirely  on  his  agility  he  is  the  hero  in  this  contest  between 
human  skill  and  brute  force,  so  that  it  is  often  the  matador  comes  back  from 
his  advanced  position  as  a star,  much  to  the  delight  of  the  audience,  to  try 
his  hand  and  thrust  an  extra  pair  of 
banderillas.  In  all  well-regulated 
companies  there  are  two  banderillos, 
each  with  two  pairs  of  banderillas ^ 
makimg  eight  in  all,  that,  if  their 
work  is  well  done,  are  hanging  from 
the  bull’s  shoulders,  and  the  presi- 
dent’s bugler  announces  the  end  of 
second  act  and  calls  the  matador  to 
kill  the  bull.  As  the  star  in  some 
great  drama  is  received  with  plaudits 
as  he  enters  upon  the  stage,  so  is 
the  matador  with  shouts  and  throw- 
ing of  hats,  that  is,  if  he  is  indeed  a 
star  matador  known  to  kill  his  bulls 
with  a single  stroke  of  the  sword. 

The  matador  takes  his  sword  and 
muleta,  and  while  the  capeadores 
are  leading  the  bull  to  further  weari- 
ness on  the  other  side  of  the  ring, 
advances  to  the  front  of  the  presi- 
dent’s box,  hat  in  hand,  dedicates 
the  bull  to  something  or  somebody, 
some  State  or  County,  some  man, 
or  girl,  and  tells  the  president  that 
he  will  kill  the  bull  in  the  most  ap- 
proved style,  then,  tossing  his  cap 
to  an  admirer  in  the  shady  seats, 
proceeds  to  do  his  part,  or  after 
saluting  the  president,  he  may  cross 
to  the  sunny  side,  as  it  is  some- 
times well  to  cater  to  the  rabble, 
and  tell  the  people  there  that  he 
will  kill  the  bull  in  their  especial  thrust  of  the  sword. 

style  and  toss  his  cap  there  to  be  held  in  great  honor  while  he  does  it. 

Then  advancing  toward  the  bull,  the  matador  holds  in  his  right  hand  a 
long,  perfectly  straight,  sharp-pointed,  keen-edged  sword;  in  his  left  he 
carries  the  muleta^  the  'Ted  rag”  of  the  Spanish  bull  fight,  and  used  only 
in  the  last  act,  in  the  killing  of  the  bull.  The  muleta  is  a piece  of  red  flannel 
three  or  four  feet  square,  held  on  a stick,  near  the  ground  and  in  front  of 
the  bull,  kept  in  a fluttering  motion  before  his  eyes,  which  seems  to  infuriate 
further  the  already  enraged  animal.  He  lowers  his  head  and  makes  a ru^h 
for  the  muleta^  which  is  held,  although  in  the  left  hand,  across  to  the  right 
of  the  matador;  this  gives  him  a fair  play  for  the  stroke  of  the  sword,  and 
as  the  bull  lowers  his  head  to  attack  the  "red  rag”  the  right  hand  of  the 
matador  drives  the  sword  to  the  hilt  into  the  bull’s  shoulders,  or  between 


70 


them,  cutting  the  spinal  cord  or  piercing  the  heart,  which  if  it  has  been  well 
done  brings  the  bull  to  his  knees  and  he  lies  down  to  die,  but  it  may  not  be 

death  until  the  “stroke  of  mercy”  has  been 
given  by  the  cachetero,  an  attendant  with 
a short  dagger — who  comes  from  behind 
and  gives  the  bull  a quick,  sure  thrust 
I between  the  horns  to  instantaneous  death. 

I While  this  is  being  done  the  matador  is 
* bowing  his  acknowledgments  to  an  en- 
thusiastic audience,  who  have  gone  wild 
and  thrown  their  hats,  canes,  coats,  cigars 
and  coin  into  the  ring;  the  hats,  canes 
and  coats  are  thrown  back  to  their 
owners,  but  the  cigars  and  coin  are  kept 
for  future  reference.  But — if  the  killing 

has  been  bungled  and  the  espada^s  work 
not  well  done,  then  instead  of  canes,  hats 
and  cigars  the  disapproving  enthusiast 
r pulls  up  the  boards,  and  with  the  chairs 
land  anything  that  is  loose  or  that  he  can 
loosen,  throws  them  into  the  ring.  Four 
mules  gaily  harnessed  are  then  driven  in, 
a chain  fastened  about  the  heels  of  the 
dead  bull  and  he  is  dragged  out.  Even 
before  the  dead  first  bull  has  disappeared 
^^and  the  dead  horses  dragged  out,  the  two 
^^^picadores  appear  on  other  horses  worse 
than  the  first,  if  possible,  the  bugle 
sounds  again,  and  another  bull  bounds 
into  the  ring  to  meet  the  fate  of  the  first; 

DEATH  OF  THE  BULL.  after  the  second  another  and  another  till 

five  or  six  are  killed,  and  if  you  have  been  there  you  are  to  be  the  judge 
whether  your  Sunday  after- 
noon has  been  well  spent. 

The  upper  classes,  as  a rule,  do 
not  frequent  the  bull-ring, 
though  there  are  many  and 
brilliant  exceptions;  you  may 
see  on  the  Paseo  almost  any 
day  the  most  elegant  equipage 
on  that  grand  boulevard 
among  whose  occupants  are 
little  children  dressed  in  the 
full  ring  costume  of  the  torea- 
dor. The  Mexican  small  boy 
plays  at  bull-fighting  as  the 
American  does  at  baseball,  or 
as  the  more  sporty  one  puts  on  dragging  out  the  dead. 

the  gloves  with  his  fellows — is  it  then  any  wonder  that  the  custom  prevails 
since  the  children  are  taught  to  admire  it? 


The  City  of  Mexico. 


Two  hundred  years  before  the  Spaniards  came  to  Mexico  there  was  a great 
city  in  the  midst  of  the  lakes  that  spread  out  their  bright  waters  in  the  Vale 
of  Anahuac,  but  it  was  nearly  a thousand  years  before,  that  the  Toltec  tribes 
came  down  into  the  beautiful  valley.  Whatever  of  chronological  data  there 
may  have  been  in  the  picture-writings  of  the  Aztecs  was  destroyed  in  the 
fanatical  fires  that  destroyed  the  temples  of  Tenochtitlan. 

The  not  altogether  reliable  data  given  by  Clavigero  places  the  arrival  of 
the  Toltecs  in  Anahuac  in  the  year  648,  remaining  there  till  A.  D.  1051,  when 
they  abandoned  the  country.  The  Chicimecs  came  in  1170,  the  Acolhuans  or 
Tezcucans  in  1200;  the  Mexicans  or  Aztecs  came  to  Tula  in  1196,  and  in  1325 
founded  the  city  of  Tenochtitlan,  and  after  Tula  was  their  capital  city,  near 
the  center  of  Anahuac,  an  empire  that  comprised  some  sixteen  thousand  square 
leagues,  though  the  name  Anahuac,  which  means  ‘‘near  the  water”  was  first 
applied  to  the  plain  and  valley  of  Mexico,  of  only  about  seventy  leagues  in 
circumference. 

The  Aztecs  were  a migratory  people,  not  always  successful  in  their  wars, 
and  at  one  time  were  a nation  of  slaves,  but  their  ferocity  soon  brought  them 
freedom  and  set  them  upon  their  wanderings  again;  it  was  at  this  time  that 
they  halted  on  the  southern  and  western  shores  of  Lake  Texcoco.  Such  a 
body  of  water  seemed  a sea  to  them,  and  the  Casique,  with  a retinue  of  chiefs, 
sought  up  and  down  the  shores  for  a camping  place  till  they  came  to  a rocky 
point  jutting  out  into  the  lake — here  they  beheld,  perched  on  a stem  of  prickly 
cactus,  a golden  eagle  of  great  size  and  beauty,  with  a serpent  in  his  talons, 
his  outstretched  wings  were  towards  the  rising  sun — this  was  taken  as  an 

71 


72 


auspicious  omen  indicating  a site  for  their  city — the  legend  is  preserved  on 
the  banner  of  Mexico — for  here  the  city  was  built. 

From  this  miraculous  incident  the  city  was  called  Tenochtitlan,  from  “tunal” 
a cactus  on  a stone,  but  in  after  years  came  to  be  called  Mexico,  from  Mexitli, 
the  great  war-god  of  the  Aztecs. 

The  first  houses  were  of  reeds  and  rushes  on  foundations  of  piles  set  in 
the  shallow  waters  and  thus  began  the  building  of  a Venice  of  the  western 
world  that  soon  came,  with  its  ambitious  walls  of  stone,  palaces  and  temples 
to  a greater  magnificence  even  than  the  beautiful  Queen  of  the  Adriatic.  The 
primitive  houses  of  reeds  and  rushes  were  soon  replaced  by  massive  struc- 
tures, totally  unlike  any  other  found  on  the  western  continent  and  resembling 
more  those  of  Egypt.  The  great  teocali  or  temple  of  the  Aztec  gods  was  a 
pyramidal  structure  over  a hundred  feet  high,  requiring  a hundred  and  four- 
teen steps  to  reach  from  the  ground  to  the  esplanade  that  was  broad  enough 
and  “with  ample  room  for  thirty  knights  to  run  their  courses  in  a regular 
tourney.” 

Cortez  stood  on  the  top  of  this  temple  and  looked  down  upon  the  city  of 
Tenochtitlan  with  its  streets  and  canals,  that  are  the  same  streets  to-day,  with 
newer  streets  where  the  canals  had  been — the  causeways  that  led  to  the  main 
land  are  the  causeways  of  to-day  and  are  called  by  the  same  names — the  streets 
led  out  in  all  directions  from  the  great  teocali,  as  to-day  they  lead  out  in  all 
directions  from  the  great  Cathedral  that  stands  on  its  site. 

The  Spaniards  under  Cortez  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  on  the  8th  of 
November,  1519,  coming  from  the  southeast  and  passing  over  the  causeway 
between  Lake  Texcoco  and  Lake  Chaleo.  The  Spaniards  remained  in  the 
city  until  the  ist  of  July,  1520,  when  their  barbarities  caused  the  people  to 
rise  in  their  might  and  drive  them  out. 

After  the  defeat  of  the  Dismal  Night,  noche  triste,^^  the  Spaniards  re- 
treated over  the  causeway  of  Tlacopan  or  Tacuba,  passed  around  to  the  north 
of  the  city  and  the  lakes,  fought  a battle  at  Otumba  and  marched  to  Tlaxcala, 
thence  to  Texcoco  and  laid  siege  to  the  city  December  31,  1520,  crossing 
the  lake  in  bergantines.  The  defense  under  Guatemotzin  was  a gallant  one 
and  lasted  till  the  13th  of  August,  1521,  when  Cortez  made  his  second  triumphal 
entry  into  the  Aztec  capital. 

Guatemotzin  was  put  to  death  and  the  city  destroyed,  the  great  temples 
razed  to  the  ground  and  the  Christian  city  founded  in  the  year  1522  by  the 
erection  of  the  Atarazanas,  or  navy  yard,  for  the  bergantines  on  the  site  now 
occupied  by  the  Church  of  San  Lazaro. 

When  the  Spaniards  had  made  their  occupation  of  the  city  permanent  the 
population  decreased  as  to  the  Mexican  element  and  increased  in  Spanish 
inhabitants  till  in  1600  there  were  only  about  10,000  Indians  and  nearly  that 
many  Spaniards,  and  from  that  time  the  increase  in  numbers,  both  of  the 
Spaniard  and  mixed  population,  was  rapid  till  the  middle  of  the  next  century 
there  were  nearly  a hundred  thousand  people  and  at  the  end  of  it  there  were 
125,000  people  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  making  it  the  metropolis  of  the  western 
world.  Which  honor,  as  the  largest  city  on  the  continent,  it  retained  for  more 
than  250  years. 

Not  until  the  reign  of  the  fifty-second  viceroy,  Juan  Vicente  de  Giiemes 
Pacheco  de  Padilla,  Conde  de  Revillagigedo,  in  1789,  did  the  ancient  capital  be- 
gin to  assume  the  metropolitan  proportions  of  a civilized  city.  This  viceroy 
paved  the  streets  and  lighted  them,  built  sewers,  established  a police  system, 
rid  the  city  of  foot-pads  by  hanging  the  captured  highwaymen,  and  created 
very  many  reforms;  the  old  Conde  was  very  vigorous  and  emphatic  in  his 
methods  and  permitted  no  delays  in  the  carrying  out  of  his  orders;  the  work 


73 


of  improvement  was  required  to  be 
promptly  and  effectively  done  and  his 
orders  were  not  to  be  disregarded  in 
the  slightest  particular. 

It  is  told  of  the  Conde  Revilla- 
gigedo  that  he  went  about  the  city 
unattended,  day  or  night,  and  that 
when  he  found  anything  wrong  he 
required  it  righted  then  and  there. 
One  night  he  struck  his  foot  against 
an  uneven  place  in  the  pavement — 
he  sent  a messenger  for  the  con- 
tractor telling  that  he  was  wanted, 
and  waited  there  till  he  came  and 
told  him  in  language  forcible,  but  of 
Castillian  politeness,  that  the  pave- 
ment must  be  repaired  before  morn- 
ing. At  another  time  the  Conde  was 
driving  through  the  streets  in  the 
early  evening  and  came  upon  a bar- 
ricade of  huts  completely  shutting 
off  the  passage  of  a street ; he  or- 
dered his  coachman  to  summon  the 
official  in  charge  of  streets,  while  he 
waited  there ; the  officer  was  ordered 
to  clear  the  street  and  have  it  open 
so  the  Conde’s  carriage  could  pass 
through  as  he  drove  to  mass  the  fol- 
lowing morning.  It  was  done,  and 
till  this  day  the  street  from  the  Ala- 
meda to  the  Plazuela  de  la  Canda- 
laria  is  called  Calle  de  Revillagigedo 
in  honor  of  the  eccentric  but  practi- 
cal reformer  of  the  olden  times. 

The  rules  and  regulations  of  the 
modern  city  are  scarcely  less  string- 
ent, and  a clean,  well-kept  city 
is  the  result — but  a monument  to 
the  old  Count  should  have  a place 
at  every  corner  in  the  city  as  a re- 
minder. 

It  is  probable  that  the  ancient  city 
of  Tenochtitlan,  covering  about  a 
quarter  of  the  territory  of  the  present 
city,  was  at  the  geographical  center 
of  the  Aztec  empire  and  of  the  terri- 
tory within  the  boundaries  of  Ana- 
huac,  but  the  City  of  Mexico  is  far 
from  the  center  of  the  Mexican  Re- 
public. It  is,  by  direct  air  lines, 
1,500  miles  from  the  extreme  north- 
west boundary,  200  miles  from  the 
Gulf,  400  miles  from  the  Pacific 
and  600  miles  from  the  boundary 


74 

of  Guatemala  on  the  south,  in  latitude  19°  26'  5"  north  and  99°  6'  45"  west 
from  Greenwich. 

The  city  is  in  the  midst  of  a broad  plain  completely  surrounded  by  high 
mountains  forming  the  rhn  of  a bowl  or  basin,  from  which  there  is  no 
natural  outlet  for  the  streams  that  rise  in  the  hills,  hence  the  accumulation 
of  waters  th^t  may  have,  at  one  time,  covered  the  entire  face  of  the  plain, 
and  since  the  establishment  of  the  city  great  inundations  have  occurred  as  in 
1552  and  again  in  1629,  flooding  the  streets  and  drowning  thousands  of  the 
inhabitants.  To  prevent  the  recurrence  of  the  floods  and  consequent  disaster 
the  dyke  of  San  Lazaro  was  built  in  1552,  the  great  canal,  called  the  Tajo  de 
Nochistongo,  was  commenced  in  1607,  but  neither  served  the  purpose  of  the 
drainage  of  the  valley  and  the  city  is  subject  to  the  rise  of  the  waters  in  the 
very  wet  seasons,  but  inundations  will  be  prevented  by  the  great  tunnel  com- 
pleted in  1896,  bored  through  the  hills  of  the  eastern  rim  of  the  bowl.  The 
tunnel  is  connected  with  the  lakes  by  canals  which  makes  a perfect  drain- 
age of  the  city  and  of  the  valley. 

The  city  is  in  what  is  called  the  Federal  District,  covering  an  area  of 
some  four  hundred  and  fifty  square  miles — the  government  of  the  district  like 
the  District  of  Columbia  is  directed,  by  the  national  legislature,  administered 
by  the  Ayuntimiento,  or  city  council,  the  city  and  district  being  presided  over 
by  a Governor  appointed  by  the  President  of  the  Republic.  The  population 
of  the  district  is  in  round  numbers  nearly  600,000,  and  of  the  city  proper  about 
400,000. 

The  great  Lake  of  Texcoco  is  eastward  of  the  city,  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo 
to  the  southeast,  Zumpango  and  San  Cristobal  to  the  north.  It  is  probable 
that  before  the  filling  up  by  the  building  of  causeways,  and  the  made-lands 
from  the  grading,  both  for  the  old  city  of  Tenochtitlan  and  the  newer  City 
of  Mexico,  that  these  lakes  were  all  one  immense  body  of  water,  completely 
surrounding  the  ancient  cities. 

The  altitude  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  7,349  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at 
Vera  Cruz,  only  200  miles  away,  gives  it  a most  delightful  climate  and  a 
most  even  temperature.  The  average  mean  range  of  thermometer  from  Octo- 
ber to  April  is  56  degrees  and  from  May  to  September  63  degrees;  practically 
the  only  difference  between  summer  and  winter  is  that  it  never  rains  in  the 
winter  and  it  does  almost  every  day  in  the  summer — but  only  in  showers,  and 
never  with  long  periods  of  rainy  weather — and  the  only  cold  weather  results 
from  a norther  that  blows  up  from  the  Gulf  and  lasts  not  more  than  a few 
hours  or  a day.  With  the  clean,  well-kept  streets  and  delightful  climate,  the 
Mexican  capital  is  a most  delightful  city  whether  the  sojourn  may  be  in  the 
winter  or  summer  months. 

National  Library— Biblioteca  Nacional,  is  located  in  the  old  Church  of 
San  Agustin  on  the  street  of  San  Agustin,  three  squares  south  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  building  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  city  and  has  on  two  sides  a 
pretty  little  garden  surrounded  by  a high  iron  railing,  the  posts  of  which  are 
surmounted  by  busts  of  Mexicans  of  prominence  in  literature,  beginning  with 
Netzahualcoyotl,  Ixtlilxochitli  Tezozomoc,  the  ancient  writers  of  the  coun- 
try, then  Carpio,  Tagle,  Pesado,  Navarrete,  Gorostiza,  Clavijero,  Veytia,  Ala- 
man,  Ramirez,  Pena  y Pena,  Najera,  Sigiienza  y Gongora,  Alzate,  Loza,  Car- 
doso and  Lafragua. 

Over  the  main  door  is  a fine  image  of  San  Agustin,  a remaining  decoration 
of  the  ancient  church.  The  interior  is  superb  in  its  architecture.  Ionic 
columns  support  the  arches  of  what  was  the  choir  and  now  the  vestibule. 
The  nave  is  now  the  stately  library  hall,  and  where  the  chapels  were  are  now 
the  alcoves  of  bookshelves.  Around  the  walls  are  statues  of  Isaiah,  Confucius, 


75 


Valmiki,  Homer,  Plato,  Cicero,  Virgil,  Aristophanes,  St.  Paul,  Origen,  Alar- 
con, Dante,  Copernicus,  Descartes,  Humboldt  and  Cuvier;  above  these  is  a 
statue  of  Time  and  the  Arms  of  the  Republic.  On  either  side  of  the  entrance 
are  medalion  portraits,  one  of  President  Juarez,  who  decreed  the  establish- 
ment of  the  library,  the  other  of  Don  Antonio  Martinez  de  Castro,  Minister 
of  Justice,  who  signed  the  decree.  The  old  chapel  of  Tercer  Orden  opening 
into  the  main  building  is  a storeroom  for  unclassified  books. 

The  collection  of  books  made  from  suppressed  monasteries  and  convents 
comprises  nearly  2CO,oco  volumes  which,  considering  the  source  from  which 
they  came,  are  mostly  religious  works,  but  a most  valuable  library  is  being 
collected  that  comprises  the  choice  books  of  the  world. 

There  are  old  books  and  new;  books  on  vellum  and  parchment;  books 
that  the  British  Museum  have  not,  but  would  like  to  have.  There  is  an  atlas 
of  England  printed  in  Amsterdam  in  1659,  with  steel  plates  and  in  colors 
that  are  as  bright  and  fresh  as  if  just  off  the  press.  Another  volume  bears 
date  of  1472,  and  another  is  still  older,  printed  in  two  colors  with  a most 
perfect  register.  There  is  a Spanish  and  Mexican  dictionary,  printed  in  Mex- 
ico in  1571.  There  is  a book  of  autographs  of  notables  and  soldiers  of  Cortez. 
A roll  of  deerskin  shows  some  original  dispatches  (painted  pictures),  sent 
by  Montezuma  to  his  allies,  but  intercepted  by  Cortez.  There  are  original 
manuscripts  and  immense  volumes  with  every  old  English  letter  done  with 
a pen.  There  are  rare  books  of  all  ages  and  nations,  from  a Chinese  diction- 
ary down  to  the  latest  works  of  the  day. 

The  Library  is  open  daily,  feast  days  excepted,  from  10  a.  m.  to  5 p.  m.,  and 
is  free  to  all. 

Other  Libraries — Each  department  of  the  government  has  a library 
of  appropriate  books,  as  also  the  National  Museum  and  the  Academy  of 
Eine  Arts;  the  School  of  Engineering  has  8,cco  volumes;  the  Law  School, 
16,000;  the  Preparatory  School,  10,000;  and  in  the  old  Church  of  Betlemitas,  on 
Cinco  de  Mayo  street,  is  a free  library  of  io,oco,  open  daily,  except  feast  days, 
9 a.  m.  to  I p.  m.,  and  3 p.  m.  to  7 p.  m.  The  National  Palace  has  an  exten- 
sive library  composed  of  the  archives  of  the  nation. 

National  School  of  Fine  Arts  is  called  also  the  Academy  of  San 
Carlos.  Drawing  and  painting  was  first  taught  in  Mexico  in  the  Col- 
lege of  San  Juan  de  Letran,  founded  by  Pedro  de  Gante,  although  Rodrigo 
de  Cifuentes,  a painter  of  some  renown,  made  portraits  of  Cortez  at  the  time 
of  the  Conquest.  About  the  year  1600  came  the  great  Sebastian  Arteaga, 
who  has  been  called  the  founder  of  art  in  Mexico.  At  about  this  time  came 
Alonzo  Vasquez,  Baltazar  Echave  and  his  wife,  who  was  called  La  Sumaya. 
Among  the  artists  of  the  next  century  were  Andreas  Lopez,  Herrera,  Aguilera, 
Juan  Correa,  Cabrera,  a native  Indian  of  Oaxaca,  and  his  pupil,  Vallejo;  Ibarra, 
Jose  and  Luis  Rodriguez,  Lopez,  Saenz,  Esquirel,  Nicolas  Juarez,  Zendejas 
and  Alcibar,  these  were  the  painters;  the  sculptors  were  Cora  and  Patino 
Instolinque,  but  perhaps  the  greatest  of  all  these  was  Francisco  Eduardo 
Tresguerras,  painter,  sculptor  and  architect,  who  flourished  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  eighteenth  and  first  part  of  the  nineteenth  centuries. 

The  work  of  these  men  are  in  the  churches  of  the  land  throughout  its 
length  and  breadth  and  in  the  Academy  of  the  City  of  Mexico. 

The  school  of  Fine  Arts  originated  in  the  school  of  engraving  connected 
with  the  mint,  established  under  a royal  order  of  Charles  III,  dated  March 
15,  1778,  under  the  direction  of  Don  Geronimo  Gil,  the  chief  engraver,  who 
opened  the  school  in  May  following.  The  Director  of  the  Mint,  Don  Fer- 
nando de  Mangino,  obtained  the  consent  of  the  Viceroy  Mayorga  to  the  es- 
tablishment of  an  academy  of  painting,  sculpture  ^nd  architecture.  Classes 


76 


HALL  OF  THE  AMBASSADORS,  NATIONAL  PALACE. 


77 


were  organized  November  4,  1781;  the  King  being  informed,  issued  a royal 
order  December  25,  1783,  licensing  the  institution  under  the  name  of  La 
Academia  de  las  Nobles  Artes  de  San  Carlos  de  la  Nueva  Espana.  The  Aca- 
demy was  opened  with  imposing  ceremonies  on  the  4th  of  April,  1785. 

The  first  teachers  came  from  Spain,  the  painter  Aguirre  and  Velasquez, 
painter  and  architect.  In  September,  1791,  the  Academy  was  removed  to  its 
present  quarters  in  the  building  formerly  occupied  by  the  Hospital  de  Amor 
de  Dios,  then  came  the  architect  Manuel  Tolsa  and  the  painter,  Rafael 
Jimeno.  Tolsa  brought  with  him,  as  a present  from  Charles  III,  a fine  col- 
lection of  casts  valued  at  nearly  $50,000,  and  under  those  auspicious  circum- 
stances the  Academy  prospered,  interrupted  though  by  the  wars  and  revolu- 
tions of  the  times,  and  was  closed  from  1810  to  1821.  In  1824  the  city  coun- 


AN  OLD-IRON  MARKET. 


cil  voted  a small  annuity  for  the  support  of  the  Academy,  which  continued 
till  1843,  when  the  proceeds  of  a lottery  rendered  a more  adequate  support 
and  the  Academy  was  formally  reopened  January  6,  1847.  Under  the  Juarez 
government  an  annual  allowance  of  $35,000  was  made  and  in  1868  the  name 
was  changed  to  the  National  School  of  Fine  Arts,  when  prizes  were  offered, 
among  which  is  one  of  a pension  of  $600  per  annum  for  six  years.  Tuition 
is  free. 

The  notable  pictures  are  the  ‘'Martyrdom  of  San  Apronianio,’’  “The  Holy 
Family”  and  “The  Adoration  of  Magi,”  by  Echave.  “Christ  in  the  Garden,” 
by  Luis  Juarez;  “San  Agustin,”  by  Antonio  Rodriguez;  “Justo  and  Pastor” 
and  “Life  of  St.  Alexis,”  by  Jose  Juarez;  “Mary  and  Elizabeth”  and  “Christ 
and  St.  Thomas,”  by  Arteaga;  “Santa  Ana  and  the  Virgin,”  “The  Holy  Sepul- 
chre” and  “The  Meeting  of  Mary  and  Elizabeth,”  by  Echave.  “Virgin  of  the 


78 


Apocalypse”  is  by  Cabrera,  and  there  is  also  a portrait  of  that  artist  painted 
by  himself.  In  “The  Adoration  of  the  Magi,”  by  Nicolas  Juarez,  the  artist 
has  introduced  his  own  portrait,  the  figure  on  the  left  in  blue.  Among  Ibarra's 
pictures  are  “Woman  of  Samaria”  and  “Woman  Taken  in  Adultery;”  and 
those  of  Cabrera  are  his  “Virgin  of  the  Apocalypse,”  “Bernard”  and  “An- 
selm.” There  is  also  a “Crucifixion”  by  Arteaga;  a “Martyrdom  of  St,  Law- 
rence,” by  Luis  Juarez,  and  a fine  “Virgin  de  la  Purisima,”  by  Aguilera. 

There  is  a “San  Juan  de  Dios,”  a “San  Rafael,”  a “San  Juan  en  el  De- 
sierto”  all  by  Murillo,  also  a “San  Francisco”  and  a “San  Antonio  de  Padua” 

that  are  also  attributed  to  that  great 
artist.  There  is  a portrait  of 
“Rubens”  and  a “Christ  Torment- 
ed,” both  by  Rubens.  There  is  a 
“Seven  Virtues”  on  wood  by 
Leonardo  and  a “San  Sebastian”  by 
Van  Dyke;  a portrait  of  “Murillo” 
by  Velasquez.  Among  others  are 
a “Saint  Gregory;”  “Santa  Cata- 
lina de  Sena,”  “Santa  Teresa,”  and 
a portrait  of  “Maria  Ana  of  Austria, 
Wife  of  Philip  IV,”  a “Las  Casas” 
and  numerous  others  more  or  less 
interesting  and  by  various  artists. 
The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  is  on 
the  Calle  del  Amor  de  Dios,  two 
squares  east  of  the  Cathedral  and 
one  square  from  the  National  Mu- 
seum. The  hours  are  from  12  noon 
to  2 p.  m.,  daily,  and  from  9 a.  m. 
to  12  m.  Sundays  and  feast  days. 

National  Museum,  or  Museo 
Nacional,  half  a square  east  of  the 
Cathedral  and  just  in  rear  of  the 
National  Palace,  contains  a fine 
collection  of  antiquities  and  objects 
of  natural  history,  excellently  ar- 
ranged and  altogether  the  most 
interesting  place  in  the  capital,  The 
collection  was  formerly  a depart- 
ment of  the  National  University 
and  when  that  institution  was  closed 
in  1865  the  relics  were  removed  to  the  present  building,  which  until  that  time 
was  occupied  by  the  Mint.  The  collection  is  constantly  being  added  to  by 
the  reception  of  relics  from  all  parts  of  the  country — the  government  very 
wisely  having  decreed  an  ownership  on  all  antiquities  wherever  found  within 
the  boundaries  of  the  Republic,  and  has  caused  them  to  be  brought  to  the 
National  Museum  until  it  contains  one  of  the  finest  and  most  interesting 
collections  in  the  world.  There  are  many  examples  of  the  ^prehistoric  races 
of  the  country,  idols  from  their  temples  and  ornaments  from  the  palaces; 
jewels,  arms,  shields  and  utensils  of  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs,  with  some  of 
their  picture  writings;  there  are  portraits,  parchments  and  paintings  through 
all  the  years  of  the  country’s  history  from  the  days  of  the  Conquest. 

The  Sacrificial  Stoue  is  in  shape  similar  to  the  calendar  stone.  The 
carvings  indicate  very  clearly  its  uses;  the  basin  hollowed  in  the  top 


79 


with  the  canal  leading  to  a niche  on  the  edge  seems  to  have  had  the  purpose 
of  catching  the  blood  of  the  victim  and  carrying  it  away.  The  figures  on 
the  rim  show  the  victorious  chiefs  under  Tizoc  dragging  their  victims  by  the 


INTERIOR  MUSEUM,  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 

hair  to  the  place  of  sacrifice  to  be  offered  to  the  sun.  This  stone  was  found 
near  the  Cathedral  in  1791,  and  as  it  was  too  heavy  to  handle  conveniently, 
was  about  to  be  broken  up  and  used  for  paving  stones,  but  the  destroyers’ 
work  was  arrested  and  a most  interesting  relic  was  preserved. 

The  Calendar  Sto«e.  crvmfifimpc  r'all<=>rl  r»f  fViP  .^iin  WP  <; 

originally  set  in  the 
walls  of  the  great 
temple  of  Tenochtit- 
lan,  and  after  the 
destruction  of  the 
temple  was  buried  in 
the  earth  for  many 
years  on  the  spot 
where  the  temple 
stood,  on  the  Plaza 
Mayor;  it  was  resur- 
rected and  placed  in 
the  west  tower  of  the 
Cathedral,  where  it 
remained  till  1886, 
when  it  was  removed 
to  the  Museum,  where 
it  is  preserved.  An 
effort  by  some  writ- 
ers, who  have  spent  sacrificial  stone. 

little  time  in  research,  to  discredit  the  interesting  theory  of  its  use 
as  a calendar,  meets  with  but  very  little  favor,  as  its  drawings  and  divisions 


80 


clearly  indicate  the  calendar  idea,  which  has  been  carefully  and  clearly  worked 
out  till  it  is  apparent  to  the  most  casual  observer.  The  critics  of  the  calendar 
have  only  succeeded  in  a small  way  in  appearing  wise,  and  to  know  some- 
thing which  for  some  reason  they  do  not  divulge,  and  prefer  to  say  it  was 
not  a calendar  stone  just  because  somebody  else  said  it  was,  and  yet  fail 
to  say  what  its  uses  were,  beyond  a hint  at  sacrificial  purposes,  although  an- 
other stone  with  more  appropriate  carvings  stands  beside  it. 

The  tradition  goes  that  both  the  Sacrificial  and  the  Calendar  stones  were 
taken  from  the  ancient  quarries  near  Coyoacan  and  dragged  over  the  cause- 
ways on  wooden  rollers  to  the  walls  of  the  teocali,  and  that  they  each  broke 
down  the  bridge  of  Xoloc,  were  lost  in  the  lake  and  a second  pair  of  mono- 
liths were  quarried  and  through  the  efforts  of  5,000  men  were  safely  moved 

over  the  causeway 
and  the  renewed  and 
strengthened  bridge 
in  1478.  By  order  of 
the  king  Axayacatl, 
the  engravings  were 
made  and  by  the 
priests  they  were  ded- 
icated through  the 
sacrifice  of  728  hu- 
man beings. 

The  Goddess  of 
Water,  is  a huge 
monolith  nearly  ii 
feet  high,  over  5 feet 
across.  It  weighs 
nearly  40,000  pounds. 
Very  much  disfigured 
in  its  carvings,  it  is 
still  nearly  perfect  in 
form.  It  came  from 
Teotihuacan  near  the 
Pyramids  of  the  Sun 
and  Moon,  and  is  an 
idol  of  prehistoric 
origin. 

Httitzilopochtli 

was  the  war  god  of 
the  ancient  Mexicans. 

CALENDAR  STONE.  The  very  elaborately 

carved  idol  has  two  faces  dissimilar  in  feature,  and  is  perhaps  two  figures, 
one  of  which  has  been  called  Teoyaomiqui,  though  this  latter  name  does 
not  appear  in  Mexican  mythology,  and  the  theory  that  one  part  is  a god 
and  the  other  a goddess  is  hardly  tenable,  though  there  is  repulsiveness 
and  ugliness  for  more  than  two  figures.  The  idol  is  nearly  ten  feet  high 
by  about  three  in  diameter. 

El  Indio  Triste,  the  Sad  Indian,  was  found  in  1828,  in  the  street 
now  called  by  that  name.  Why  the  image  was  called  the  Sad  Indian  does 
not  appear,  for  while  the  countenance  may  not  be  called  pretty,  it  is  by  no 
means  sad.  Writers  agree  that  the  statue  was  set  upon  a wall  with  a torch  or 
standard  in  each  hand,  and  was  more  for  the  purpose  of  ornamentation  than 
an  object  of  worship,  and  was  not  an  idol.  On  the  walls  of  the  Temple  of 


81 


Huitzilopochtli  were  Indians  of  stone  with  candlesticks  in  their  hands,  and 
this  may  have  been  one  of  them,  although  it  was  dug  up  (1828)  in  the  street 
that  now  bears  its  name,  the  Calle  del  Indio  Triste.  How  this  piece  of  sculp- 
ture came  by  its  name  tradition  does  not  narrate. 

Two  Serpents’  Heads  of  gigantic  size  were  originally  in  the  walls 
of  the  Temple  of  Tenochtitlan  and  were  a part  of  the  cohuatepantli  or  wall  of 
serpents.  They  were  discovered  by  Senor  Garcias  Cubas  where  they  had  been 
buried  beneath  the  original  Cathedral. 

The  Feathered  Serpent  is  one  of  the  most  curious  sculptures  of  the 
museum;  it  is  coiled  and  has  an  unmistakable  snake’s  head;  this  form  of 
serpent  is  found  in  smaller  examples  in  the  museum.  They  came  from  all 
parts  of  Mexico,  in  fact  have  been  found  in  various  parts  of  the  continent. 
It  is  called  Quetzal-coatl  and  represents  an  ancient  myth  of  Mexico  of  a 


GODDESS  OF  WATER. 

white  man  with  a long  flowing  beard  who  taught  the  people  religion  and  civili- 
zation; a religion  that  the  earliest  comers  to  Mexico  found  very  similar  to 
Christianity.  The  legend  goes  that  this  mysterious  teacher  was  one  of  the 
Apostles,  St.  Thomas,  but  why  he  should  be  represented  by  a feathered  ser- 
pent is  not  apparent. 

Chac-Mol,  the  God  of  Fire,  is  a recumbent  figure  in  stone,  lying  upon 
its  back,  with  both  hands  holding  upon  the  stomach  a round  disk  as  an 
emblem  of  the  sun.  This  particular  Chac-Mol  was  found  in  Yucatan,  other 
and  similar  figures  from  other  parts  of  the  Republic  are  in  the  Museum.  There 
are  scores  of  other  sculptures  brought  from  all  parts  of  the  country  about 
which  little  is  known  as  to  their  origin  and  of  which  history  and  tradition 
are  silent,  and  which  the  catalogues  can  only  enumerate. 


82 


A Colossal  Head  of  a human  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces  in  the  Mu- 
seum. It  is  exquisitely  carved  in  diorite;  it  is  three  feet  high  by  two  feet 
throuerh  the  neck  and  about  seven  feet  in  circumference.  It  was  found  in 

1830  in  the  street  of  Santa  Teresa  in  the 
City  of  Mexico,  in  excavating  for  the  foun- 
dation of  a building  and  was  presented  to 
the  Museum  by  the  Abbess  of  the  Concep- 
tion. Authorities  disagree  as  to  its  origin 
or  use,  though  its  carvings  relate  in  some 
way  to  the  Aztec  calendar.  In  the  front 
of  the  cap  are  thirteen  shells,  that  may 
mean  the  thirteen  religious  days  of  the  man. 
In  the  back  of  the  head  dress  are  twenty 
shells  and  there  were  twenty  days  in  the 
civil  month;  these  and  other  carvings 
correspond  in  numbers  to  those  on  the 
Calendar  stone.  In  the  other  halls  of  the 
Museum  are  many  interesting  relics  pre- 
historic, and  of  the  age  of  the  Toltecs  and 
of  the  Aztecs,  arms  and  munitions  of  war, 
darts,  javelins,  clubs  and  shields.  Among  the  shields  is  one  of  Montezuma’s. 
There  are  also  implements  and  objects  of  home  life, 
jewels,  dresses  and  costumes  of  the  earlier  races  of 
the  country,  and  some  of  the  famous  picture  writ- 
ings showing  the  wanderings  of  the  people. 

Of  the  later  centuries  there  is  the  Banner  of  the 
Conquest,  a portrait  of  the  Conqueror  Cortez,  and 
some  of  his  armor,  and  the  arms  carried  by  the 
soldiers  under  him,  among  which  is  a helmet  and 
cuirass  worn  by  the  gallant  Captain  Pedro  de  Alva- 
rado, and  of  the  post-conquest  days  there  are  some 
portraits  of  the  Spanish  viceroys.  The  standard  of 
the  war  for  independence,  the  banner  of  Our  Lady 
of  Guadalupe  taken  by  Hidalgo  from  the  little 
Church  of  Atotonilco,  near  San  Miguel,  in  the  State 
of  Guanajuato,  his  musket,  cane,  chair  and  handker- 
chief are  to  be  seen  also — and  of  the  later  days  the 
coach,  chariot  of  state  and  silver  dinner  service  of 
the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  the  carriage  of  Presi- 
dent Juarez.  These  and  many  other  objects  of 
interest  representing  all  ages  of  the  country  make 
this  Museum  one  of  the  most  notable  in  the  world, 
containing  as  it  does  so  much  that  is  to  be  found 
in  no  other,  called  from  times  and  tribes  of  a people 
wholly  different  and  distinct  and  with  no  link  to 
connect  them  with  any  other  on  the  face  of  the 
earth. 

The  Monte  de  Piedad  is  trie  National  pawn- 
shop, founded  by  the  Conde  de  Regia  Don  Pedro 
Romero  de  Terreros,  the  then  owner  of  the  great 
Real  del  Monte  mines,  near  Pachuca,  with  an  huitzilopochtli. 

endowment  of  over  $300,000;  approved  by  the  Crown,  June  2,  i774»^  and 
on  the  25th  of  February,  1776,  the  doors  were  opened  for  business. 
At  first  no  interest  was  charged  on  the^  loans.  This  was  with  th& 

o 


83 


idea  to  protect  the  people  from  the  usurious  charges  of  pawnbrokers 
that  have  been  the  same  sharks  in  all  ages  and  countries.  It  was  ex- 
pected that  on  the  redemption  of  the  pledge  that  the  borrower  would  make 
some  gift  for  charitable  purposes,  but  as  his  gratitude  did  not  always  material- 
ize it  was  found  necessary  to  charge  a nominal  rate  of  interest.  So  low  are 
the  charges  that  it  is  in  reality  a boon  to  the  people,  and  the  liberal  rules  of 
redemption  make  the  business  one  fair  transaction.  When  the  interest  on  an 
article  fails  to  be  paid,  it  is  exposed  for  sale  with  a fixed  price.  At  the  end  of 
a month  the  price  is  reduced,  and  again  at  the  end  of  the  second  or  third 
month,  when  it  reaches  the  amount  of  the  original  loan  and  interest,  which 
usually  effects  the  sale,  but  if  the  article  is  sold  during  the  first  or  second 
month  the  excess  over  the  loan  and  interest  is  paid  to  the  borrower — an  un- 
heard-of and  unprecedented  proceeding.  The  idea  of  paying  a borrower  any- 
thing on  an  unredeemed  pledge  simply  because  it  sold  for  more  than  the  loan 
is  absurd,  and  such  a ridiculous  plan  does  not  exist  except  in  the  Monte  de 
Piedad  of  Mexico. 

The  institution  was  established  first  in  old  college  San  Pedro  y Pablo,  after- 
wards removed  to  the  street  of  San  Juan  de  Letran  and  later  to  the  building 
erected  especially  for  it  on  the  street  of  the  Empedradillo,  opposite  and  just 
west  of  the  Cathedral,  on  the  spot  where  once  was  one  of  the  palaces  of 
Cortez. 

The  original  capital  became  very  much  reduced  in  1814  by  bad  manage- 
ment, but  changes  in  the  administration  and  reforms  restored  the  deficit; 
again  in  1884,  during  the  administration  of  President  Gonzalez,  the  capital 
was  again  impaired  and  has  never  fully  recovered,  but  there  is  still  sufficient 
to  do  a very  large  business  and  the  institution  remains  a practical  benevolence. 
Not  so  much  as  in  the  earlier  days  of  its  existence,  but  there  are  still  to  be 
found  among  the  pledges  some  very  good  bargains  in  articles  of  vertu  and 
interesting  relics  of  persons  who  have  seen  better  days. 

Schools  and  Colleges — The  school  system  of  the  City  of  Mexico  is 
fully  abreast  of  the  times.  So  much  progress  has  been,  and  is  being  made 
that  it  is  impossible  in  a work  of  this  kind  to  give  data  or  statistics.  What 
might  be  written  this  year  would  be  all  wrong  next,  hence  no  figures  are  given 
here.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  information  in  detail  is  easily  obtained  from  the 
Department  of  Justice  and  Public  Instruction.  There  are  many  private  schools 
and  institutions  of  learning  and  public  schools  supported  by  the  National,  State 
and  Municipal  governments,  some  of  the  most  important  of  which  are  noted 
here. 

The  Conservatory  of  Music  was  established  in  1877  in  a building 
erected  in  1787  on  the  site  of  the  first  building  of  the  University  of  Mexico, 
on  lands  that  belonged  to  the  estate  of  Cortez.  There  is  a fine  patio  with 
flowers,  and  surrounded  by  old  cloisters;  a splendid  concert  hall  and  a fine 
painting  by  Vallejo.  The  library  and  collection  of  music  is  very  complete. 

The  School  of  Mines,  La  Mineria,  on  the  Calle  de  San  Andres, 
was  founded  in  1777  by  Don  Velazquez  de  Leon  and  Don  Lucas  de  Lasaga. 
The  building  is  a magnificent  one,  erected  in  1813  at  a cost  of  nearly  $200,000. 
There  are  fine  patios,  stairways  and  columned  galleries,  and  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  edifices  in  all  Mexico.  The  decorations  are  superb,  especially  in 
the  chapel  where  there  is  a fine  bronze  altar,  and  frescoes  by  Jimeno.  There 
is  a fine  observatory,  library  and  extensive  cabinets  of  specimens.  Under  the 
front  portal  are  some  immense  meteoric  stones  weighing  tons,  that  have  fallen 
at  different  points  in  Mexico.  During  his  visit  to  the  capital,  in  1880,  General 
Grant  was  quartered  in  this  magnificent  building. 


84 


The  School  of  Medicine  was  authorized  by  a royal  decree  dated 
March  i6,  1768,  followed  by  numerous  other  decrees  down  to  the  final  one 
of  1833,  after  being  located  at  different  points  in  the  city  was  finally  estab- 
lished in  1854  in  the  building  formerly  occupied  by  the  Inquisition  in  the 
Plaza  of  Santo  Domingo.  The  college  has  a fine  theater,  lecture-rooms, 
library  and  apparatus. 

The  Preparatory  School  for  advanced  students  to  prepare  for  the 
colleges  was  originally  an  institution  of  the  Jesuits  and  is  still  called  by 
the  old  name  of  the  School  of  Ydelfonso.  The  present  building  was  completed 
in  1749  at  a cost  of  nearly  half  a million  dollars.  The  patios  are  surrounded 
by  galleries  handsomely  decorated.  The  various  halls  contain  some  handsome 
p^aintings  by  Vallejo  and  other  noted  artists,  among  which  is  “The  Holy 
Family’'  and  the  “Feast  of  Pentecost.”  The  library,  museum  and  apparatus  are 
in  keeping  with  the  importance  of  the  institution. 

The  School  of  Agriculture  is  located  just  outside  the  city  on  the 
Tacuba  road,  on  the  hacienda  de  San  Jacinto,  and  is  an  important  institu- 
tion, with  all  modern  appliances  for  agricultural  education. 

The  Colegio  de  la  Paz,  called  also  the  College  of  San  Ygnacio 
Loyola,  had  its  corner  stone  laid  in  1734,  but  was  not  completed  till  1767, 
when  the  cost  was  estimated  to  be  $2,000,000.  The  school  was  originally 
directed  by  the  Biscayan  Brotherhood,  but  upon  the  banishment  of  the  order 
was  taken  charge  of  by  the  government.  It  is  supported  by  its  endowment 
and  an  appropriation.  There  are  primary  and  secondary  departments  where, 
in  addition  to  the  regular  branches  of  education,  sewing,  embroidery,  etc., 
are  taught.  The  original  school  was  founded  by  three  philanthropists  through 
pity  of  the  numerous  poor  children  of  that  part  of  the  city  who  were  without 
schools,  and  with  their  own  money  bought  the  original  site  and  commenced 
the  first  building.  Their  names  should  be  perpetuated.  They  are  Don  Jose 
Aldaco,  Don  Ambrosio  Meave  and  Don  Francisco  Echeveste.  The  building 
is  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  finest  in  the  city. 

Other  Schools  — Among  tne  other  schools  are  the  Industrial  School 
for  Women,  Industrial  School  for  Men,  School  for  Deaf  Mutes,  Industrial 
School  for  Orphans,  School  of  Correction,  School  for  the  Blind,  Commer- 
cial College  Law  School,  a Theological  Seminary,  Schools  of  the  Lancasterian 
Society,  Benevolent  Society  and  of  the  Catholic  Society,  in  which  there  are 
changes  constantly  being  made,  so  that  detailed  information  here  would  in 
a short  while  be  unreliable. 

HOSPITALS. 

Concepcion  Beistigni  is  one  of  the  newest  hospitals  of  the  city, 
having  been  founded  by  Senorita  Concepcion  Beistigui  and  opened  March 
21,  1886.  It  was  remodeled  from  the  old  convent  of  Regina  Coeli,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  city.  It  is  located  near  the  Plaza  de  Regina,  six  squares 
south  of  2d  San  Francisco  street. 

Hospital  del  Divino  Salvador  is  for  the  care  of  insane  women. 
It  had  its  foundation  in  the  charity  of  a pious  carpenter,  Jose  Sayago, 
who  took  the  unfortunate  creatures  he  found  on  the  streets  and  cared  for 
them  in  his  own  house,  till  the  Archbishop  Aguiar  y Seijas  gave  him  a larger 
house  and  supplied  him  with  money  for  expenses.  After  the  death  of  Sayago 
and  the  archbishop  in  1698  the  hospital  passed  to  the  care  of  the  Jesuits,  and 
after  the  suppression  of  the  order  it  came  under  the  control  of  the  govern- 
ment, when  a liberal  appropriation  was  made  and  an  improved  mode  of  treat- 
ment put  in  effect.  It  is  located  in  the  Calle  de  Canoa,  three  squares  north 
of  1st  San  Francisco. 


85 


Hospital  de  Jesus  Nazareuo  was  founded  by  Cortez  about  the 
year  1590,  and  was  amply  provided  for  in  his  will,  but  the  administrators  mis- 
applied the  funds,  until  the  management  was  undertaken  by  Don  Bernardo 
Alvarez  and  matters  put  in  proper  shape  and  the  provisions  of  the  will  firmly 
established,  so  that  all  attempts  to  break  it  have  failed,  and  it  is  still  supported 
by  the  endowment  made  by  the  conqueror.  The  hospital  is  on  the  Calle  de 
Jesus,  three  squares  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Hospital  Mutticipal  Juarez  was  once  a church,  a college  and  a 
barracks.  The  college  of  San  Pablo  was  built  on  the  site  in  1575,  and  a church 
in  1581,  and  remained  as  important  institutions  for  some  two  hundred  years, 
when  they  fell  into  decay  and  were  leased  by  the  government  for  use  as  a 
barracks.  The  first  uses  as  a hospital  were  in  1847,  after  the  battle  of  Padierna 
with  the  Americans  near  San  Angel,  on  the  19th  of  August  of  that  year,  when 
the  wounded  soldiers  were  brought  in  to  this  place.  Afterward,  through  the 
good  offices  of  Dr.  Jose  Urbano  Fonseca,  it  became  a municipal  hospital,  and 
later,  with  the  merging  of  hospitals  of  San  Hipolito  and  San  Lazaro,  became, 
since  1862,  the  Hospital  Municipal 
Juarez,  though  sometimes  called 
by  the  old  name  of  San  Pablo.  It 
is  located  on  the  Plaza  de  San 
Pablo,  one  square  east  and  six 
squares  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Casa  de  Materuidad  was 
founded  by  an  imperial  decree  of 
the  Emperor  Maximilian,  dated 
June  7,  1865,  and  opened  on  the 
anniversary  a year  later  under  the 
direction  of  the  Council  of  Public 
Charities,  of  which  the  Empress 
Carlotta  was  the  president,  and 
who  became  so  thoroughly  inter- 
ested that  she  sent  from  Europe 
a complete  set  of  surgical  instru- 
ments and  a large  sum  of  money 
for  the  support  of  the  hospital, 
which  is  located  on  the  Calle 
Revillagigedo,  half  a square  south 
of  the  Alameda. 

La  Cuaa,  the  cradle,  is  a 
foundling  asylum,  known  also  as 
La  Casa  de  Senor  San  Jose  de  Ninos  Expositos,  and  was  founded  by  the  Arch- 
bishop Lorenzana  January  ii,  1766,  and  supported  by  his  private  purse  and  alms 
through  his  hands  even  after  his  return  to  Spain.  The  succeeding  archbishop, 
Don  Nunez  Haro  y Peralto,  continued  the  work  by  organizing  a Congregation 
of  Charity  for  the  custody  and  management  of  the  asylum,  which  received  a 
royal  approval,  and  by  a decree  of  the  king  of  Spain  dated  July  30,  1794,  the 
foundlings  were  declared  legitimate  and  endowed  with  the  rights  of  citizen- 
ship, and  it  was  further  provided  that  the  children  should  receive  the  name 
of  Lorenzana  in  honor  of  the  founder  of  the  asylum.  The  children  receive  a 
practical  education,  the  boys  a manual  training  and  the  girls  are  taught 
sewing,  embroidery  and  music.  The  asylum  is  three  squares  east  from  the 
south  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Hospital  Morelos  was  originally  a foundling  asylum,  known  as 
Hospital  de  la  Epifania,  to  which  was  attached  the  Hospicio  de  Nuestra  Senora 


86 


de  los  Desamparados,  Our  Lady  of  the  Forsaken,  and  was  founded  by  the  good 
Doctor  Pedro  Lopez  in  1582.  In  1604  it  came  under  the  control  of  the  brothers 
of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  who  built  the  present  fine  church  and  hospital,  and  who 
administered  the  charity  for  more  than  two  hundred  years,  till  the  order  was 
suppressed  in  1820  and  the  hospital  closed,  but  through  the  good  offices  of 
Don  Caspar  Ceballos  it  was  reopened  March  8,  1845,  under  the  name  of  the 
Hospital  Morelos,  in  honor  of  the  patriot  soldier  of  the  war  of  independence, 
but  it  is  still  called  also  by  its  old  names.  It  is  near  the  Plaza  de  Morelos, 
immediately  north  of  the  Alameda. 

Hospital  de  San  Andres  was  originallv  a pest-house  in  use  during 
the  plague  of  1779,  though  it  was  a Jesuit  foundation  of  a century  earlier. 
After  the  termination  of  the  plague  it  was  made  a general  hospital,  and  under 
the  Laws  of  the  Reform  became  the  property  of  the  Ayuntamiento,  or  city 
government,  and  so  remains  to  the  present  time.  A department  for  the  free 
treatment  of  the  diseases  of  the  eye  is  maintained.  The  hospital  is  on  the 
Calle  San  Andres,  a square  and  a half  east  of  the  Alameda. 

Hospital  de  San  Hipolito  was  founded  by  a retired  merchant 
of  Peru,  a native  of  Andalusia,  Bernardino  Alvarez,  who  took  upon  himself  the 
care  of  the  sick  and  became  a hospital  nurse,  but,  not  being  satisfied  with 
the  treatment  of  the  sick,  resolved  to  establish  a hospital  of  his  own.  A lot 
near  the  church  of  San  Hipolito  was  given  him,  with  permission  to  build  his 
hospital,  which  he  did  with  his  own  property  and  contributions  made  to  him, 
and  set  out  to  gather  patients,  not  only  in  the  city,  but  from  as  far  away  as 
Vera  Cruz  he  gathered  the  lame,  the  halt  and  the  crazed.  A brotherhood  was 
formed  for  the  carrying  on  of  the  good  work,  which  received  the  sanction  of 
the  Pope,  Cregory  XIII;  approved,  in  1585,  May  i,  by  Sixtus  V.  Under 
a bull  of  Clement  VIII,  October  8,  1604,  the  brothers  were  ordered  to  take 
the  vows  of  hospitality  and  obedience,  and  in  1700,  under  a bull  of  Innocent 
XII,  they  became  a monastic  order  under  the  rules  of  the  Agustinians,  and  all 
the  privileges  pertaining  to  that  order,  and  were  known  as  the  Hipolitos,  the 
Brothers  of  Charity,  which  was  purely  a Mexican  order.  Under  this  admin- 
istration the  hospital  became  an  insane  asylum  for  males.  The  present  build- 
ing was  erected  in  1773.  The  order  of  Hipolitos  was  suppressed  by  the  Span- 
ish Cortez  in  1820,  October  i,  and  the  property,  amounting  to  nearly  $200,000, 
confiscated,  but  the  brothers,  as  individuals,  remained  in  charge.  The  mu- 
nicipality has  since  had  charge.  The  hospital  is  on  the  Calle  de  San  Hipolito, 
one  square  west  of  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Alameda. 

Hospicio  de  Pobres  was  founded  by  Dr.  Fernando  Ortiz  Cortez, 
under  a royal  order  dated  July  9,  1765.  The  asylum  for  the  poor  was  opened 
March  19,  1774,  and  so  great  was  the  demands  of  the  charity  that  a few 
years  later  it  was  greatly  enlarged  by  Don  Francisco  Zuniga.  The  support 
was  derived  from  an  allowance  of  $1,000  per  fmonth  from  the  government 
lottery,  a most  appropriate  appropriation,  since  the  lottery  is  your  greatest 
factor  in  creating  paupers.  There  are  different  departments  for  the  old  and 
young,  male  and  female,  with  accommodations  for  a thousand  or  more.  The 
hospicio  is  on  the  Avenida  Juarez,  nearly  opposite  the  southwest  corner  of 
the  Alameda. 

Other  Hospitals — The  American  Plospital  was  founded  in  1886  through 
the  good  work  of  the  American  colony  and  visiting  Americans,  and  has  its 
sole  maintenance  from  their  charity  and  contributions  from  the  philanthro- 
pists of  our  country: 

The  English,  French,  German  and  Spanish  Benevolent  Societies  look  after 
their  sick  in  a charitable  manner, 


87 


PUBLIC  AND  NOTABLE  BUILDINGS- 

The  National  Palace,  Palacio  Nacional,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  is  the  Capitol  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  as  it  was  the  Vice-regal  palace 
when  the  country  was  a province  of  Spain,  and  before  that  period  was  the  site 
of  a palace  of  Cortez,  and  was  the  property  of  the  Conqueror;  the  land 
fell  to  his  share  when  the  city  lots  of  Tenochtitlan  were  divided  among  the 
Spaniards.  At  that  time  the  site  was  occupied  by  what  was  known  as  “the 
new  palace”  of  Montezuma,  which,  being  destroyed,  Cortez  built  in  its  place,  a 
house  flanked  with  towers.  The  estate  was  confirmed  by  the  king  to  Cortez 
in  1529  and  remained  in  the  possession  of  his  heirs  till  1562,  when  it  was 
bought  by  the  crown  for  the  residence  of  the  Viceroy,  and  remained  as  the 
vice-regal  residence  until  1692,  when  the  house  was  destroyed  in  the  riots 
of  that  year. 

The  present  building  was  begun  in  1692,  and  from  time  to  time  has 
been  added  to  until  it  extends  over  the  entire  north  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
having  a frontage  of  675  feet,  extending  down  the 
side  streets  proportionately,  the  whole  surround- 
ing an  immense  patio  or  court,  with  accommoda- 
tions for  the  various  departments  of  the  Federal 
Government,  the  Presidential  offices,  Senate 
Chamber,  Postofifice  and  barrack  room  for  sev- 
eral regiments.  The  Presidential  apartments  are 
in  accord  with  the  high  office  and  the  dignity  of 
the  government,  magnificently  appointed  and 
splendidly  decorated — it  is  not  the  Presidential 
residence,  only  the  offices  of  the  President  and  of 
the  Government.  The  most  noted  room  is  the 
Hall  of  the  Ambassadors,  an  apartment  of  regal 
dimensions  and  adornment.  It  extends  its  elegant 
proportions  along  the  palace  front,  the  immense 
windows  looking  out  upon  the  Plaza.  The  walls 
are  hung  with  portraits  of  the  illustrious  men  of 
the  country’s  history,  including  the  martyrs  of  the 
War  of  Independence,  Hidalgo,  Allende,  Morelos, 

Matamoros  and  others;  Yturbide,  and  Presidents 
Arista,  Juarez  and  Porfirio  Diaz;  there  is  also  a 
fine  portrait  of  George  Washington.  Other 
paintings  are  an  allegorical  representation  of  the 
Constitution  and  the  battle  of  the  5th  of  May, 
respectively  by  Monroy  and  Jliranda,  Mexican  Mexico’s  liberty  bell. 
artists  of  high  repute.  On  the  15th  of  September,  1896,  there  was  placed 
over  the  main  gateway  of  the  palace  the  bell  from  the  tower  of  the  church  of 
Dolores,  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  near  San  Miguel  de  Allende,  rung  by 
Hidalgo  incidentally  to  call  the  people  to  mass,  but  in  reality  to  call  them  to 
arms  for  the  cause  of  Independence;  hence  became  the  Liberty  Bell  of  Mexico. 

In  the  old  tower  of  the  little  church  at  Dolores,  nearly  a hundred  years 
ago  on  that  September  night  when  the  stars  shone  bright,  rang  out  the 
clear  tones  of  a bell.  The  people  listened  and  wondered  at  its  ringing  at 
such  an  hour,  but  well  knew  that  it  rang  not  except  upon  the  order  of 
the  faithful  padre,  the  good  Father  Hidalgo,  and  came  from  their  homes 
quickly  to  answer  the  summons  and  hear  what  he  might  say.  Assembled 
there  under  the  dim  light  of  the  flickering  candles  of  the  altar,  the  patriot  priest 


88 


told  his  people  that  the  hour  of  independence  was  at  hand  and  that  they 
should  follow  him  and  march  then  to  do  battle  for  their  country  and  against 
the  Spanish  king.  The  march  was  announced  at  the  hour,  with  the  banner 
of  Guadalupe  taken  from  the  little  church  of  Atotonilco  as  their  standard  the 
people  followed  Hidalgo,  they  knew  not  where,  they  only  followed  Hidalgo, 
and  thus  was  born  the  bell  of  liberty  in  Mexico. 

Long  ago  the  banner  of  Guadalupe  of  Atotonilco  was  placed  in  the  Na- 
tional Museum  of  the  capital  of  the  Republic,  but  the  Liberty  Bell  of  Mexico 
was  but  yesterday  placed  above  the  gates  of  the  National  Palace,  and  on 
the  night  of  the  i6th  of  September  of  1896  rang  out  again  as  it  did  in 
that  night  of  1810  for  liberty  and  independence. 

It  is  in  history  that  the  hour  when  this  bell  first  rang,  except  for  mass 
or  matin,  was  at  eleven  o’clock,  and  forty  minutes  of  the  night  between  the 
15th  and  i6th  September,  1810,  then  Hidalgo  rang  it  in  the  call  to  arms  and 
liberty,  and  when  the  people  answering,  assembled  under  the  darkening  shad- 
ows of  its  tower  he  pronounced  the  Grito  of  Mexican  independence. 

It  has  long  been  the  custom  of  the  President  of  Mexico  to  go  upon  the 
balcony  over  the  main  gateway  of  the  National  Palace  at  the  hour  and  there 
pronounce  again  the  Grito  as  Hidalgo  said,  and  now  he  may  ring  the  bell 
that  Hidalgo  rang  and  all  the  people  shout  their  vivas  now,  as  did  the  little 
band  of  patriots  in  1810. 

The  bell  had  remained  in  the  towers  of  the  church  at  Dolores  since  Hidalgo 
rang  it  on  that  eventful  night,  but  on  Independence  Day  of  1896  it  was  brought 
to  the  capital,  and  on  the  i6th  of  September,  with  all  the  pomp  and  circum- 
stance of  state,  was  carried  in  grand  procession  and  placed  over  the  palace 
gate.  The  triumphal  car  bearing  the  bell,  the  central  figure  of  a glittering 
pageant,  rolled  on  golden  wheels,  whose  spokes  were  trimmed  with  flowers. 
An  eagle  with  outspread  wings  on  the  front  of  the  car  seemed  to  fly  before 
the  precious  relic  as  if  to  lead  the  way.  In  the  shadow  of  the  eagle’s  wings 
rested  an  old  brass  cannon,  cast  by  Hidalgo,  on  which  is  inscribed,  “Para 
defender  la  Fe  y la  Pureza  de  Maria  Santisima” — For  the  defense  of  the  Faith 
and  the  Purity  of  Holy  Mary.  The  bell  and  the  cannon  were  surrounded  by 
trophies  of  the  war  of  independence,  muskets,  swords,  cannon,  sponges,  picks 
and  pikes;  the  entire  group  surmounted  with  a wreath  of  laurel  and  oak, 
ending  in  a background  of  tropic  trees,  entwined  with  the  colors  of  Mexico. 

The  car  was  drawn  by  six  magnificent  horses,  mounted  by  postilions  and 
guarded  by  an  escort  of  rurales;  the  grand  procession  following  was  com- 
posed of  the  dignitaries  of  state,  civic  and  military,  the  army  and  the  people. 
The  lookers-on  in  Mexico  were  massed  to  the  walls  on  the  sidewalks,  every 
window  and  balcony  was  filled  and  so  were  the  housetops,  from  whence  came 
showers  of  flowers  and  serpentines  in  green,  white  and  red,  and  the  vivas 
drowned  the  music  of  the  band,  as  the  people  cheered  the  grand  old  bell 
on  its  progress  to  the  home  of  the  nation. 

When  the  car  arrived  on  the  Plaza  in  front  of  the  Palace,  the  bell  was 
removed  and  hoisted  over  the  central  gate,  in  the  fagade  of  the  Palace,  and 
as  it  reached  its  final  resting-place  a thousand  doves  with  tricolor  bands  about 
their  necks  rose  up  from  the  archway,  circled  around  and  flew  away  to  the 
four  quarters,  carrying  the  glad  news. 

The  President  and  his  Cabinet  watched  the  hoisting  of  the  bell  from  a 
pavilion,  and  when  the  work  was  completed  it  was  formally  received  from  the 
commission  that  had  brought  it  from  Dolores  Hidalgo.  The  patriotic  speeches 
of  presentation  and  reception  were  received  with  wild  applause  and  the  cere- 
mony was  over  till  the  evening. 

All  day  long  the  crowds  had  not  left  the  Plaza,  only  thinned  out  a little 


89 


now  and  then,  and  when  night  came  it  was  packed  again  until  the  hour  of 
eleven  drew  on  and  there  was  a solid  mass  of  humanity  within  the  walls  of 
the  great  square. 

At  11:35  President  Diaz  came  from  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  to  the 
balcony  where,  till  now,  he  had  only  pronounced  the  Grito,  took  the  rope  in 
his  hand,  a silence  fell  on  the  multitude  till  the  hands  of  the  clock  crawled  to 
forty  minutes  past,  and  he  gave  the  bell  four  lusty  strokes,  and  a mighty  shout 
went  up  and  re-echoed  to  the  surrounding  hills;  then  rang  all  the  bells  in 
every  tower.  A star  of  electric  fire  surrounded  the  bell  and  cascades  of  colored 
fires  poured  down  from  the  Cathedral  towers  and  the  Palace  walls,  bands 
played  and  people  shouted,  and  almost  wept  from  patriotic  joy — the  inde- 
scribable scene  may  not  be  written  in  the  words  of  any  language,  great  was  the 
boon  of  him  who  saw  the  dedication  of  Mexico’s  Liberty  Bell. 

The  Casa  de  Moiieda,  the  Mint,  on  the  Calle  Apartado,  six  squares 
north  of  the  cathedral,  was  one  of  three  established  by  the  Spanish  Government 
in  1535,  the  other  two  at  Potosi,  in  Bolivia,  and  at  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico. 
At  first  there  was  only  an  assay  office  from  which  ingots  and  bars  bearing  the 
official  stamp  were  issued  and  were  current  as  money. 

The  present  building  was  completed  in  1734  at  a cost  of  something  over 
half  a million  dollars.  The  increasing  output  of  gold  and  silver  of  Mexico 
caused  the  establishment  of  mints  in  other  cities,  notably  at  Zacatecas,  Guana- 
juato, Guadalajara,  but  the  mint  of  Mexico  is  the  principal  one,  the  coinage 
having  reached  the  enormous  sums  of  over  $100,000,000  gold  and  nearly 
$3,000,000,000  in  silver.  The  mints  may  be  leased  to  private  parties,  as  they 
often  are,  but  the  coinage  is  always  under  the  espionage  of  the  government. 
Coins  of  the  Spanish  king,  of  the  Republic  and  of  the  Empire  under  Maxi- 
milian have  been  issued  from  this  mint,  with  machinery  from  France,  England 
and  the  United  States. 

Aduaiia,  the  Custom  House,  occupies  the  Plaza  and  ancient  church  of 
Santiago  Tlaltelolco,  in  the  northwest  quarter  of  the  city. 

Camara  de  Diputados,  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  or  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives, is  in  the  Yturbide  Theater,  four  squares  north  of  San  Francisco 
street  from  the  corner  of  Vergara,  the  original  hall  in  the  National  Palace 
having  been  destroyed  by  fire  in  1872.  The  theater  has  been  remodeled  and 
adapted  to  legislative  uses. 

Arzobispado,  or  the  Palace  of  the  Archbishop,  on  the  corner  of  Calle 
Arzobispado  and  Seminario,  was  established  in  1530  by  the  first  Archbishop  of 
Mexico,  Juan  Zumarraga,  and  decreed  by  Charles  V.  in  1533  to  be  the  home 
of  the  Archbishops  forever,  but  the  Republic  of  Mexico  decreed  otherwise  and 
in  1861  declared  it  to  be  the  property  of  the  State,  and  is  now  occupied  by 
various  governmental  offices. 

The  Palace  of  Yturbide,  so  called  from  its  occupancy  by  the 
Emperor  Yturbide  I.  during  his  brief  reign,  now  occupied  (since  1855)  as  a 
hotel,  on  ist  San  Francisco  street,  was  built  by  the  Marquesa  de  San  Mateo 
Valparaiso  during  the  eighteenth  century  on  lands  that  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Convent  of  Santa  Brigida. 

The  House  of  Tiles,  on  ist  San  Francisco  street,  is  one  of  the 
curiosities  of  the  city.  It  was  built  by  the  Conde  del  Valle  de  Orizaba  early 
in  the  eighteenth  century,  now  occupied  by  the  Jockey  Club.  It  is  a mag- 
nificent house,  with  its  walls  completely  covered  with  tiles.  There  is  a Spanish 
proverb  applied  to  a spendthrift,  “He  will  never  build  a house  of  tiles,”  that 
the  building  of  this  beautiful  house  would  seem  to  completely  controvert. 

Near  by,  fronting  on  the  Plazuela  de  Guardiola,  is  the  splendid  residence 
of  the  family  Escandon.  The  house  of  Bazaine,  on  the  Puente  de  Alvarado, 


90 


noticeable  from  its  recessed  front,  was  occupied  during  the  reign  of  Maximilian 
by  his  perfidious  minister,  the  Marshal  Bazaine. 

On  the  Tacuba  road,  near  the  Garita  de  San  Cosine,  is  the  house  of  the 
Masks,  la  casa  de  los  mascarones,  so  called  because  of  the  stone  masks 
which  adorn  its  walls.  This  curious  house  was  designed  and  partly  built  by 
the  Conde  del  Valle  de  Orizaba,  in  the  year  1771,  who  died  after  having  spent 
$100,000  on  it,  and  left  behind  him  this  most  unique  architectural  monument. 

The  City  Hall,  Palacio  del  Ayuntimieiito,  is  on  the  southeastern  side, 
of  the  Plaza  Mayor,  on  a site  set  apart  by  Cortez  for  the  municipal  palace, 
and  has  been  since  so  occupied.  The  present  house  was  finished  in  1722.  The 
lower  floor  is  occupied  by  the  fine  dry  goods  stores  of  the  city,  in  front  of 
which  are  the  finest  portales  in  the  city. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  STREET  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


There  are  many  notable  houses  in  various  parts  of  the  city,  whose  walls 
could  tell  tales  of  history  and  romance  if  they  had  ears  to  hear  them  in  the 
centuries  gone  by.  Among  them  the  house  of  the  Condes  de  Santiago,  just 
beyond  the  Calle  de  Parque  del  Conde,  so-called  from  the  park  that  origi- 
nally surrounded  the  magnificent  house  with  its  carved  doors  and  miniature 
cannon  used  as  water-spouts.  The  patio  is  large  and  of  exquisite  propor- 
tions. The  lower  part  of  the  house  is  occupied  by  stores  and  shops.  On 
3rd  Calle  de  San  Augustin  is  the  house  occupied  by  Humboldt,  the  great 
German  traveler,  in  1803.  A tablet  recording  this  fact  was  set  in  the  walls 
on  the  looth  anniversary  of  his  birth,  September  14th,  1869. 


91 


PLAZAS,  PARKS,  PASEOS  AND  PANTEONS. 

Plaza  Mayor,  the  main  plaza,  or  to  be  explicit,  the  Plaza  Mayor  de  la 
Constitucion,  is  in  the  city’s  center,  where  stood  the  great  teocali,  the  temple 
of  th^  and  where  stands  the  Cathedral,  and  facing  it  the . National 
Palace.  When  the  Aztec  temples  were  destroyed  and  the 
an  open  space  was  left  here  that  soon  became  a market  place  and  filled  with 
shops  and  booths.  These  were  destroyed  by  fire,  after  the  ^yal  order  of 
January  i8,  i6ii,  creating  the  space  a public  plaza,  only  to  be  rebuilt  a 
subseqLntly  destroyed  in  a riot  in  1692,  the  fire  destroying  the  building  of 
the  Akmtamiento,  City  Council,  and  injuring  the  palace  with  a loss  of  valu- 
able records,  a portion  only  being  saved  through  the  efforts  of  Don  Carlos 
de  Sisfuenza  y Gongora,  the  custodian.  . t-.  • j u 4-1 

Afterward  an  elegant  stone  building,  called  the  Parian,  was  erected  by  the 
municipality,  and  was  rented  to  merchants  of  a high  class  who  brought  here 
their  wares,  and  it  became  the  bazaar  of  fine  trade,  but  the  fruit  sellers  and 
vegetable  venders  surrounded  it  with  their  huts  again  and  remained  for 

‘"^T^ircoming  of  the  Conde  de  Revillagigedo,  the  viceroy,  in  1789,  marked 
the  beginning  of  the  present  plaza.  The  hucksters  and  peddlers  were  driven 
off  to  the  Volador  market,  the  open  ditches  were_  covered  into  sewers,  the 
panteons  removed  or  obliterated,  and  in  1830  the  foundation  was  laid  m the 
plaza  for  the  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  W,  that  was  f^‘®^*?”Lr"^°The 
and  which  now  stands  at  the  entrance  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma. 

Parian  was  looted  during  the  revolution  of  1828,  and  later,  in  1843,  the  build- 
ing torn  down  and  the  site  included  in  the  pla^.  , . 1 j ■ v. 

In  the  center  of  the  plaza  is  the  Garden  of  the  Zocalo,  which  derives  its  name 
from  the  zocalo,  or  foundation,  for  a monument  that  was  never  built,  a monu- 
ment to  Mexican  independence.  From  this  the  plaza  is  often  called  the  Zo- 
calo  A music  stand  is  built  on  the  foundation,  and  a military  band  plays 
here  evenings  and  Sundays  for  the  middle  and  poorer  classes. 

Ortwo  sides  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  are  the  portales,  an  extension  of  the 
buildings  over  the  sidewalks  that  are  supported  by  columns  with  arches  be 
tween,  under  which  are  some  of  the  finest  stores  in  the  city.  On  the  east  sid 
the  National  Palace  extends  almost  its  entire  length;  on  the  north  tlm  gieat 
Cathedral  with  its  towers,  flanked  on  one  side  by  the  flower  iflarket  and 
on  the  other  by  the  Plaza  del  Seminario,  which  is  only  a part  of  the  mam 
plaza.  Here  is  a monument  to  Enrico  Martinez,  the  noted  engineer  of  his 
day  who  was  responsible  for  the  Nochistongo  canal,  for  the  drainage  o 
the ’city  Bronze  figures,  inlaid  in  a marble  shaft,  show  standards  of  measure- 
ment and  the  level  of  the  lakes  at  different  times.  _ 

From  the  Plaza  Mayor  street  cars  for  all  parts  of  the  city  and  the  sub- 
urbs start,  and  the  passenger  remaining  in  the  car  will  be  brought  here  again 
on  the  return  trip;  and  here  are  fired  the  salutes  and  the  troops  reviewed 
on  national  days,  the  i6th  of  September,  5th  of  May,  2d  of  April  and  other 
days  of  national  celebration. 

La  Alameda  is  the  park  of  the  better  classes,  and  is  so  called  fro 
the  fact  that  it  was  first  planted  with  alamos,  or  poplars.  ^ Every  city,  town 
and  village  has  an  alameda,  but  this  is  the  alameda  of  Mexico  ^ 

In  1592  a petition  was  made  to  the  city  council  to  set  apart  certain  ground 
for  a park  of  recreation,  and  the  old  Indian  market,  the  Tianquis  del  San 
Hipolito,  located  on  a part  of  the  present  Alameda,  was  selected,  and  a litt  e 
later  the  Plaza  del  Quemadero,  the  place  of  the  stone  altar  on  which  the 


92 


victims  of  the  Inquisition  vv^ere  burned,  was  added.  The  Quemadero  was 
removed  by  order  of  the  Viceroy  Marquis  de  Croix,  and  the  Alameda  at- 
tained its  present  size  and  shape.  By  his  order  to  remove  the  Quemadero 
the  Viceroy  incurred  the  displeasure  of  the  bigots  of  the  church,  and  this 
same  Quemadero  came  near  being  his  own  funeral  pyre. 

The  Viceroy  Revillagigedo,  famous  for  his  energetic  reforms  and  muni- 
cipal improvements,  inclosed  the  Alameda  with  a high  board  fence  in  1791, 
which  was  replaced  in  1822  by  the  stone  wall  that  had  done  duty  on  the 
Plaza  Mayor  in  inclosing  the  unfortunate  statue  of  Charles  IV.  A trench 
was  outside  the  wall  of  the  Alameda,  but  these  were  all  obliterated  in  1885. 
The  Alameda  is  the  resort  of  the  fashionables,  and  here  they  most  do  congre- 
gate Sundays  and  feast  days  to  enjoy  the  music  of  the  military  bands.  The 
beautiful  trees,  the  flowers  and  the  fountains  make  the  Alameda  a most 
beautiful  park. 

The  Paseo  de  la  Refortna  extends  from  the  city  to  Chapultepec, 
commencing  at  the  glorieta  of  the  statue  of  Charles  IV,  running  in  a direct 
line  to  the  gates  of  the  park  at  the  foot 
of  the  Hill  of  the  Grasshopper.  It  is  a 
broad,  smooth,  and  very  beautiful  boule- 
vard, shaded  by  splendid  trees,  as  are  the 
wide  walk- ways  on  each  side;  along  the 
curb  and  between  the  promenades,  at  cer- 
tain intervals,  are  erected  statues  to  the 
illustrious  men  of  Mexico,  presented  by 
the  various  States  of  the  Republic;  mas- 
sive stone  seats  are  along  the  promenade 
under  the  trees.  The  Paseo  widens  into 
circles,  here  and  there,  called  glorietas, 
in  the  center  of  which  are  splendid 
statues,  one  of  Columbus  and  one 
of  Cuautemoc,  the  Aztec  warrior, 
nephew  and  successor  of  Monte- 
zuma. Other  statues  are  to  be 
erected  in  all  the  six  glorietas.  In 
the  glorieta  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Paseo  is  the  statue  of  Charles  IV 
of  Spain.  The  Aztec  stat- 
ues shown  here  have  been 
removed  to  the  Paseo  de 
La  Viga.  The  Paseo 

was  established  during  • r 1 

the  empire  of  Maximilian,  and  became  at  once  the  fashionable  drive  of  the 
Mexican  capital,  and  a more  beautiful  one  does  not  exist  in  Europe  or  Amer- 
ica. Here  in  the  late  afternoon  of  every  day,  greatly  increased  in  brilliancy 
on  Sundays  and  feast  days,  is  a magnificent  display  of  carriages  and  equipages 
of  every  style,  and  a more  splendid  review  does  not  exist  anywhere.  The 
fine  array  passes  up  one  side  and  down  the  other,  a cordon  of  cavalrymen 
in  the  center  keeping  the  procession  in  line,  and  adding  to  the  brilliancy  of 
the  scene.  There  are  other  paseos  in  the  city,  but  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma 
is  the  paseo. 

Paseo  de  Bucareli  is  sometimes  called  Paseo  Nuevo,  the  new  paseo, 
although  it  was  opened  in  1778,  and  is  now  little  used  as  a paseo.  This  paseo 
was  named  for  the  Viceroy  Bucareli,  during  whose  reign  it  was  established, 
and  starts  from  the  statue  of  Charles  IV.  In  one  of  the  glorietas  is 


93 

a fountain  and  a statue  of  Victory,  erected  in  1829  in  honor  of  President 
Guerrero. 

Paseo  de  la  Viga  runs  along  the  bank  of  the  famous  canal  of  that 
name,  and  is  a very  attractive  drive,  especially  during  the  fiestas  of  the  In- 
dians, and  still  more  especially  on  Holy  Thursday  and  on  the  day  of  the 
Feast  of  the  Flowers,  'ihe  drive  is  to  be  taken  for  the  novelty  rather  than 
the  good  road.  About  midway  of  the  paseo  is  a bust  of  Cuautimotzin,  the 
last  of  his  line,  and  the  last  of  the  Aztec  kings. 

Calzadas,  or  causeways,  connected  the  city  of  Tenochtitlan  with  the 
mainland.  They  were  narrow  roadways  built  by  the  Aztecs  and  improved 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  in  later  days  became  streets,  as  the  waters  were  filled 
and  houses  built  on  the  made  land. 

The  causeway  of  Tlacopan  is  now  the  Tacuba  road.  It  was  the  shortest 
to  the  mainland,  and  was  improved  from  a narrow  foot-path  to  a wide  road- 
way as  a means  of  retreat,  as  they  found  necessary,  on  the  night  of  the  ist 
of  July,  1521,  the  Noche  Triste,  and  the  tree  under  which  Cortez  sat  down 
and  wept  over  his  defeat  on  that  dismal  night  is  preserved  to  a healthy  old 
age.  Part  of  this  causeway  is  called  the  Puente  de  Alvarado,  from  the  leap 
of  the  Spanish  captain  over  one  of  the  cuts  made  by  the  Aztecs  on  that  fate- 
ful night.  The  spot  is  marked  by  a tablet  in  the  wall  of  the  churchyard  of 
San  Hipolito.  This  causeway  leads  west  from  the  city. 

The  second  of  the  three  causeways  from  the  city  to  the  mainland  leads 
southward  toward  San  Antonio  Abad,  with  branches  to  Coyoacan  and  Ixta- 
palapan.  Over  the  latter  came  Cortez  on  his  first  entry  into  the  city  of 
Tenochtitlan,  and  met  Montezuma  in  the  suburb  of  Huitzillan,  near  the  cor- 
ner of  the  Calle  del  Paja  and  Jesus  and  the  Hospital  de  Jesus.  This  causeway 
was  an  important  thoroughfare  in  the  Aztec  times,  and  was  widened  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1605. 

There  were  two  causeways  leading  northward  to  the  mainland  between 
the  city  and  the  hill  of  Guadalupe,  called  in  the  old  days  Tepeyac,  and  later 
Tepeyacac,  commencing  in  the  city  near  Santiago  Tlaltelolco.  The  eastern 
of  the  two  causeways  was  almost  destroyed  by  the  inundation  of  1604,  but 
afterward  repaired  by  Fray  Juan  de  Torquemada.  The  other  causeway  is  of 
more  recent  date,  having  been  built  in  1675-76.  Formerly  it  was  ornamented 
with  glorietas  like  those  on  the  Paseo,  and  had  fifteen  beautifully  sculptured 
shrines  erected  at  regular  intervals,  where  pilgrims  to  Guadalupe  stopped  to 
pray.  Some  of  the  shrines  are  still  standing,  but  alas,  to  what  base  uses  have 
we  come — this  causeway  is  used  for  the  roadway  of  the  Vera  Cruz  Railway, 
and  the  other  is  the  route  of  street  cars  to  Guadalupe. 

Aqueducts  for  the  city’s  water  supply  were  commenced  to  be  built 
more  than  two  centuries  ago,  but  their  usefulness  has  passed  and  they  have 
given  way  to  the  more  prosaic  iron  pipes,  and  the  ancient  waterways  have 
been  torn  down  and  the  material  used  for  street  repairs.  There  were  two 
aqueducts  bringing  water  to  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  one  from  a spring 
near  the  Desierto,  about  twenty  miles  distant.  This  aqueduct  formerly  came 
to  the  center  of  the  city,  passing  by  the  west  side  of  the  Alameda,  where  it 
served  as  a position  of  advantage  for  those  wishing  to  see  the  burning  of 
the  victims  of  the  Inquisition.  It  now  ends  in  San  Cosme.  Formerly  there 
were  nearly  a thousand  arches  of  stone  and  brick,  but  the  whole  work  cost 
less  than  $200,000.  The  building  covered  a period  from  1603  to  1620. 

The  other  aqueduct  brought  the  water  from  the  spring  in  the  park  at 
Chapultepec,  ending  in  the  beautiful  fountain  called  El  Salto  del  Agua,  which 
is  still  preserved,  and  the  remaining  arches  may  be  seen  from  the  street 
cars  of  the  Tacubaya  line.  At  certain  intervals  are  some  beautiful  shrines 


94 


artistically  sculptured.  An  inscription  on  the  fountain  of  El  Salto  del  Agua 
says  that  this  aqueduct  was  completed  March  20,  1779,  during  the  viceroyalty 
of  Bucareli,  and  that  it  is  built  on  the  line  of  an  ancient  aqueduct  of  the 
Aztecs,  built  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor  Chimalpopoca,  who  obtained  the 
right  to  take  the  water  of  Chapultepec  from  the  king  of  Atzcapatzalco,  to 
whom  the  Aztecs  owed  allegiance  until  their  independence,  in  the  time  of 
Itzcohuatl,  in  1422  to  1433. 

The  more  modern  iron  pipe  brings  water  from  the  springs  near  Guadalupe 
to  the  northern  portion  of  the  city.  The  aguador  still  does  business,  carrying 
water  from  the  fountains  to  residences,  llie  water  coming  from  the  springs 
is  exceptionally  pure,  as  it  comes  from  the  hills,  and  there  is  no  contamina- 
tion by  contact  with  sewerage. 


SHRINE  IN  THE  OLD  AQUEDUCT. 

Moiiumetits  and  Statues— The  statue  of  Charles  IV  of  Spain  is  the 
most  notable  of  the  many  in  the  city,  is  of  heroic  dimensions,  being  the 
largest  single  piece  of  bronze  in  the  world.  It  is  located  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma,  but  was  originally  in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  opposite 
the  National  Palace,  where  before  the  casting,  a wooden  model  of  the  statue, 
gilded,  was  placed  on  the  pedestal  pending  the  molding  of  the  bronze  work. 
A royal  order  by  the  king  of  Spain  was  made  November  30,  1795,  permit- 
ting the  building  of  the  statue.  The  cast  was  made  August  4,  1802,  at  six 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  after  two  days  had  been  spent  in  melting  the  bronze, 
under  the  direction  of  Don  Salvador  de  la  Vega,  from  the  model  of  Don 
Manuel  Tolsa,  the  work  being  done  under  the  administration  of  the  Viceroy 
Branciforte,  paid  for  by  the  city  and  private  contributions.  The  statue  was 
not  completed  until  1803,  when  it  was  unveiled  with  great  ceremony  on  the 
oth  of  December  of  that  year. 


95 


The  statue  remained  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  until  1822,  when  the  feeling  against 
the  Spaniards  became  so  bitter  that  its  destruction  was  threatened,  and  a 
great  wooden  globe  was  constructed  about  it  and  painted  blue  to  protect 
It  from  patriotic  missiles  thrown  by  the  now  independent  Mexicans.  But 
the  blue  globe  was  not  thought  to  be  a complete  safeguard,  and  the  statue 

was  removed  to  the  patio  of  the  uni- 
versity, where  it  remained  until  1852, 
when  the  animosity  against  Spain  had 
in  a measure  subsided,  and  the  great 
bronze  horse  and  his  royal  rider  was 
placed  in  its  present  position.  The 
height  of  horse  and  rider  is  fifteen 
feet  nine  inches,  and  weighs  60,000 
pounds. 

The  Statue  of  Columbus,  in  a glo- 
rieta  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma,  was 
the  first  to  be  erected  to  his  memory 
on  the  continent  he  discovered,  a 
beautiful  work  of  Cordier’s,  placed 
here  through  the  generosity  of  Don 
Antonio  Escandon.  The  base  is  of 
basaltic  stone,  supporting  an  iron 
balustrade,  with  lamps  at  each  cor- 
ner ; resting  on  this  is  a massive  block 
of  red  marble ; is  ornamented  on  its 
four,  sides  in  exquisite  sculpture ; the 
arms  of  Columbus  in  garlands  of  lau- 
rel ; the  rebuilding  of  the  monastery 
of  La  Rabida ; the  discovery  of  the 
island  of  San  Salvador ; a fragment 
of  a letter  of  Columbus  to  Sauris,  and 
the  dedication  by  Senor  Escandon. 
Above  this  are  life-sized  figures  in 
bronze  of  Pedro  de  Gante,  Diego  De- 
hesa,  confessor  to  Eerdinand  of 
Spain,  Las  Casas  and  Marchena  of 
Santa  Maria  de  la  Rabida.  Sur- 
mounting the  whole  is  the  statue  of 
Columbus  drawing  the  veil  that  hides 
the  new  world. 

Guatimotzin,  or  Cuauhtemoc,  the 
nephew  of  Montezuma,  and  last  of 
his  line,  the  last  Aztec  king,  has  a 
monument  in  the  next  glorieta  be- 
yond that  of  Columbus,  greatly  ven- 
erated by  the  Indians,  who  hold  fes- 
tivals in  his  honor  on  the  great  dates 
of  his  life.  ^ The  monument  is  a very  beautiful  one  of  bronze,  the  work  of 
Don  Erancisco  Jimenez.  On  the  four  sides  of  tne  base  are  wrought  in 
bronze  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  great  warrior  and  his  torture  by  Cortez, 
in  placing  his  feet  in  fire  to  compel  the  divulgence  of  the  hiding  place  of 
the  Aztec  treasure.  A bust  of  Cuauhtemoc  is  in  the  Paseo  de  la  Viga,  erected 


STATUE  OF  CUAUHTEMOC. 


96 


August  13,  1869,  the  anniversary  of  his  capture  by  Cortez  and  final  conquest 
of  the  empire. 

Near  the  entrance  of  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  is  the  statue  in  heroic  size  of 
Charles  IV.  of  Spain,  and  at  regular  intervals  on  each  side  of  the  grand 
boulevard  are  statues  of  the  men  illustrious  in  Mexican  history. 

The  Juarez  monument,  in  the  Panteon  de  San  Fernando,  the  work  of  the 
Islas  brothers,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pieces  of  sculpture  in  the  world. 
Within  a Grecian  temple,  supported  by  marble  columns,  lies  the  dead  presi- 
dent, his  head  supported  iDy  a female,  figurative  of  Mexico,  the  whole  in  white 
marble. 

Morelos,  the  soldier  priest,  has  a monument  that  was  unveiled  by  Maxi- 
milian on  September  30,  1865,  the  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  hero's  birth. 
It  is  in  the  Plazuela  de  Morelos,  between  the  churches  of  San  Juan  de  Dios 
and  Santa  Vera  Cruz,  and  in  the  Plaza  of  San  Fernando  is  a bronze  statue 
of  Guerrero,  by  Norefia. 

In  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo  is  a monument  to  the  memory  of  Senora 
Dona  Josefa  Dominguez,  the  heroine  of  Mexican  Independence,  at  whose  house 
in  Queretaro  the  first  meetings  of  the  patriots  were  held. 

CATHEDRAL  AND  CHURCHES. 

‘Tt  was  a marvelous  time  of  original  and  beautiful  work  that  covered 
Mexico  with  churches,  and  set  up  in  all  the  remote  and  almost  inaccessible 
villages  towers  and  domes  that  match  the  best  work  in  Italy,  and  recall  the 
triumphs  of  Moorish  art,”  writes  that  ardent  student  of  Mexico,  Mr.  Charles 
Dudley  Warner.  “The  beauty  and  originality  is  wholly  in  the  exterior.  While 
nearly  all  the  towers,  domes,  fagades,  and  outside  walls  are  original  in  form 
and  color  and  decorations  and  have  a special  charm,  the  interiors  are  strik- 
ingly alike  and  generally  commonplace.  This  uniformity  is  the  more  remarka- 
ble in  a people  that  build  their  interior  domestic  courts  and  decorate  them 
with  so  much  variety.  It  should  be  said,  however,  that  some  of  the  interiors 
of  the  churches  were  very  rich  in  silver  and  gold  decorations  prior  to  the 
sequestration  of  church  property.” 

“Except  in  the  general  form  of  these  churches,  there  is  nowhere  any  repe- 
tition of  design.  The  artists  seemed  to  have  had  free  play  to  express  their 
love  of  beauty  in  towers,  domes  and  fagades.  Nothing  is  commonplace;  noth- 
ing is  vulgar.  Towers  and  domes,  anyone  of  which  I should  like  to  see  in 
the  United  States,  are  common  in  the  republic ; but  it  seemed  to  me  that  in 
this  part  of  Mexico  they  expressed  a feeling  not  common  elsewhere — not 
Italian  (which  one  encounters  in  so  many  lovely  cloisters  and  towers),  nor 
yet  exactly  Spanish,  but  rather,  I should  say,  Saracenic.  At  least  this  was 
the  impression  strongly  made  upon  me.  The  domes  always  reminded  me 
of  the  tombs  of  sheiks,  of  the  califs,  and  so  on,  as  one  sees  them  in  all 
Moslem  lands,  and  the  slender  towers  recalled  the  graceful  minarets.  These 
two  forms  in  combination,  so  constant  and  so  varied,  suggested  always  the 
Saracenic  spirit  in  the  artist.  It  may  be  only  a fancy,  but  it  is  not  unrea- 
sonable to  believe  that  the  Spanish  architect  who  designed  them  was  strongly 
influenced  in  his  work  by  the  Saracenic  forms  with  which  he  was  so  familiar 
three  centuries  ago.  There  is  another  fancy  about  the  fagades  of  many  of 
the  best  old  Mexican  churches  which  I may  have  mentioned  before.  It  is  a 
peculiarity  which  one  sees  in  many  village  churches,  and  even  in  the  City  of 
Mexico,  and  in  such  suburban  towns  as  Coyoacan  and  Tacubaya.  While  the 
churches  were  evidently  designed  by  Spanish  architects,  the  workers  who 
executed  the  fagades  were  evidently  Indians ; and  in  the  strange  stone-work 


07 


98 


designs,  unlike  any  other  architectural  decoration  that  I know,  and  very  diffi- 
cult for  us  to  interpret  or  enter  into  the  spirit  of — we  have  the  Indian  tradi- 
tions of  a prehistoric  art  and  ornamentation.  Much  of  this  work,  untrans- 
latable into  our  terms,  has  more  in  common  with  the  carving  on  the  pre- 
historic temples  than  with  that  on  any  Christian  edifices.  The  subject  is  one, 
however,  that  a layman  is  incompetent  to  deal  with.  It  is  much  to  be  de- 
sired that  trained  artists  should  study  and  describe  the  old  churches  of  Mex- 
ico. Many  of  them,  like  the  noble  edifice  of  Churubusco,  with  its  interior 
wealth  of  old  Spanish  tiles,  are  already  going  to  ruin. 

“The  fascination  in  pursuing  the  study  of  the  towers  and  domes  is  that 
there  are  no  two  alike.  There  was  no  slavish  copying  from  book  designs. 
The  style  is  the  same,  but  each  architect  followed  his  own  genius  in  con- 
structing an  object  of  beauty.  The  edifices  are  not  always  simple;  the  roof 
masses  are  bold  and  grand,  often ; and  there  is  an  effect  of  solidity,  of  gran- 
deur, with  all  the  airy  grace  of  form,  and  the  satisfaction  of  the  eye  with 
color.  There  is  a touch  of  decay  nearly  everywhere,  a crumbling  and  a de- 
facement of  colors,  which  add  somewhat  of  pathos  to  the  old  structures ; but 
in  nearly  every  one  there  is  some  unexpected  fancy — a belfry  oddly  placed, 
a figure  that  surprises  with  its  quaintness  or  its  position,  or  a rich  bit  of 
deep  stone  carving,  and  in  the  humblest  and  plainest  fagade  there  is  a note 
of  individual  yielding  to  a whim  of  expression  that  is  very  fascinating.  The 
architects  escaped  from  the  commonplace  and  the  conventional ; they  under- 
stood proportion  without  regularity,  and  the  result  is  not,  perhaps,  explain- 
able to  those  who  are  only  accustomed  to  our  church  architecture.  But  most 
of  ours,  good  as  it  occasionally  may  be,  is  uninteresting ; whereas  you  love 
this,  in  all  its  shabbiness  of  age,  and  do  not  care  to  give  a reason  why.’’ 

The  Cathedral  — On  the  very  foundations  of  the  greatest  pagan  temple  of 
the  continent  is  erected  the  most  ambitious  house  of  the  Christian  Church  in 
the  western  world — the  Cathedral.  The  Holy  Metropolitan  Church  of  Mexico 
is  built  on  the  site  of  the  great  teocali  of  the  Aztecs. 

The  bishopric  of  Mexico  was  established  in  1527  by  Pope  Clement  VII, 
and  on  the  12th  of  December  of  that  year  Fray  Juan  de  Zumarraga,  at  the 
instance  of  Charles  V of  Spain,  was  made  Bishop,  but  it  was  not  until  a year 
later  that  he  arrived  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  2d  of  September,  1530, 
was  confirmed  as  bishop-elect  and  protector  of  the  Indians. 

The  archbishopric  of  Mexico  was  created  by  Pope  Paul  II  on  the  31st  of 
January,  1545,  with  Bishop  Zumarraga  as  archbishop. 

When  the  Aztec  temples  that  were  in  the  center  of  the  City  of  Tenoch- 
titlan  were  destroyed  by  the  Spaniards  in  1521,  the  space  was  set  apart  for 
the  building  of  a Christian  church,  as  before  the  walls  of  the  teocali  were 
razed  to  the  ground  the  sign  of  the  cross  and  the  image  of  the  Virgin  was 

shown  above  the  pagan  altars,  and  at  the  throwing  down  of  the  heathen 

gods  and  idols,  as  a consecration  of  the  ground,,  and  when  the  ruins  had 
been  cleared  away,  the  first  church  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  the  little  church 
of  the  Asuncion  de  Maria  Santisima,  was  built  where  the  temple  stood. 

This  church,  finished  about  three  years  after  the  conquest,  was  replaced 
soon  after  by  the  first  cathedral,  and  was  preserved  until  the  larger  one 

could  be  built.  It  stood  in  the  open  court  in  front  of  the  present  cathedral, 

the  first  stone  of  which  was  laid  just  beyond  the  north  wall  in  1573. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  present  cathedral  was  laid  in  1573;  the  founda- 
tions were  completed  in  1615,  and  the  walls  were  well  under  way;  the  roof 
over  the  sacristy  was  finished  in  1623,  the  first  service  held  in  1626.  The 
great  inundation  of  1629-35  greatly  hindered  the  work,  so  that  the  dedica- 
tion did  not  take  place  till  1656,  February  2,  and  even  then  the  building  was 


99 


»"  °f  Feb- 

Sam  M*’""-  ‘"'d^  C d’1  ne^arly""  lioolwo,'' tnd  great  cal  led 

&•  'e;  tw:7c'S'E';lE’£r  e 

EtEr-To?.  .o’^lEe'SSS  oTlhe'bS 

does  not  represent  a tithe  of  thf  actual  cost  if  the^lahof  h!d 

d£'h  'dfr"*^  material  had  been  bought  at  market  prices.  From  north''to”south 
the  budding  IS  over  400  feet  in  length,  the  interior  measuring  387  feet  Tro m 

.ow5  fij  J'C  s 

d one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  world.  On  the  cornices  are 
statues  of  saints  and  great  men  of  the  church  and  religious 
orders.  In  the  center  of  the  fagade  is  the  clock,  and  below  h 
n republic.  Surmounting  the  whole  is  the  mag- 

Stect  TmL  r™  of  graceful  proportions,  by  the 

Tolsa.  The  entire  cathedral  was  from  the  architec- 

the  ^ Castaneda.  The  immensity  of 

It  immediately  upon  the  entr^ce. 

it  IS  Gothic  and  Doric,  with  a cold  simplicity.  Twenty  mas- 
sive fluted  columns  of  stone  separate  the  nave  from  the  aisles 
and  support  the  vaulted  roof,  that  under  the  lofty  dome  is 

nafntP^'"  ^ Latin  cross.  The  dome  is  handsomely 

pa  nted  in  pictures  of  sacred  history,  among  which  is  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin.  There  are  fourteen  chapels  in  the 

eaS^Srmed"  "^®.^'«ted  to  the  various  saints, 

each  decorated  in  its  own  particular  style  with  pictures  of 
scenes  from  the  lives  of  the  respective  saints.  Th«e  chapels 
were  formerly  me  osed  with  handsomely  carved  wood  rSs 
Now  they  are  behind  iron  gratings,  where  there  are  consta  fly 
burning  candles  and  tapers  in  front  of  the  images  of  the 
saints.  The  most  noted  of  the  chapels  is  that  of  San  Felipe 

fn  fmn/’nr'^n^if’'®  some  relics  of  this  saint,  and 

Fin-  which  IS  the  font  in  which  he  was  baptized.  In 

this  chaj^l  rest  the  remains  of  the  first  emperor  of  Mexico 

mfmol-y  of’‘‘Se 

Uy  4^*^rera  Rcliquias,  containing  pictures 

P.Hrn  T martyrs.  In  another,  that  of  San 

archbishop  of  Mexico, 
the  lul  • of  Gregorio  Lopez 

a L^oI'pTihftL'^strd  oT^^ 

octagonal  stand  of  highly  polished  dark  wood  for  the  music 


100 


books,  that  have  their  notes  so  large  that  they  can  be  read  from  the  seats 
around  the  railing.  Two  immense  organs,  also  in  carved  wood,  rise  almost 
to  the  arches  of  the  roof.  From  the  choir,  leading  up  the  nave,  is  a passage- 
way to  an  altar,  inclosed  between  railings  of  tumbago,  a metal  composed  of 
gold,  silver  and  copper.  In  the  rear  of  the  choir  is  the  Altar  of  Pardon  (del 
Perdon),  where  at  any  time  may  be  seen  the  devotees  kneeling  in  crowds 
about  the  base  of  the  altar.  Here  are  two  fine  paintings,  one  by  the  great 
woman  artist.  La  Sumaya,  a San  Sabastian,  and  a Candalaria,  by  Echave. 

The  main  altar,  erected  in  1850,  was  designed  by  Lorenzo  Hidalgo,  and 
cost  a fortune  in  its  ornamentations,  gilding  and  carving.  The  fine  altar  of 
the  Kings  (de  los  Reyes)  is  the  most  imposing  in  the  building,  of  magnificent 
proportions.  Its  top  reaches  to  the  arches  of  the  roof.  The  altar  was  by 
the  artist  who  made  the  Altar  de  Los  Reyes  in  the  Cathedral  of  Seville  in 
Spain.  The  rich  carvings  and  gildings  are  the  especial  admiration  of  the 
Indians.  A noted  Mexican  artist,  Don  Juan  Rodriguez  Juarez,  greatly  added 
to  the  beauty  of  the  altar  by  his  images  and  pictures,  among  which  are  the 
Assumption  and  the  Epiphany.  Beneath  the  altar  of  the  Kings  are  buried 
the  heads  of  the  patriots  Hidalgo,  Allende,  Aldama  and  Jimenez,  brought  from 
Guanajuato  in  great  state  and  pomp  after  independence  was  secured. 

In  the  sacristy  are  some  magnificent  pictures  that  completely  cover  its 
walls:  The  Entry  into  Jerusalem,  the  Catholic  Church  and  the  Assumption, 

by  Juan  Correa;  the  Triumph  of  the  Sacrament,  Immaculate  Conception,  and 
the  Glory  of  St.  Michael,  by  Villalpando.  In  the  Meeting  Room  is  a Last 
Supper  and  Triumph  of  Faith  by  Alcibar,  and  a collection  of  portraits  of 
all  the  Archbishops  of  Mexico  by  various  artists.  In  the  Chapter  Room 
is  a fine  Murillo,  the  Virgin  of  Bethlehem,  a Virgin  by  Cortona,  and  another 
by  an  unknown  artist  representing  John  of  Austria  imploring  the  Virgin  at 
the  battle  of  Lepanto. 

The  Sagrario  MetropoHtaiio  adjoins  the  cathedral  on  the  east  side,  and 
is  really  a part  of  the  main  structure  and  opens  into  it.  It  is  built  on  the 
site  of  the  first  parish  church  of  Mexico,  the  church  of  San  Jose  de  los  Na- 
turales,  mentioned  elsewhere,  being  the  first  parish  church  of  the  Indians. 
The  Sagrario  was  founded  in  1521  and  dedicated  to  Santiago,  the  patron 
saint  of  Spain.  The  first  chapel  was  built  by  Juan  Rodriguez  de  Villafuerte 
for  an  asylum  for  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios.  The  present  church  was 
built  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  from  plans  by  the  architect 
Lorenzo  Rodriguez.  The  foundation  was  laid  January  7,  1749;  dedication, 
January  9,  1768.  The  very  intricate  carvings  of  the  fagade  are  in  striking 
contrast  with  the  great  front  of  the  cathedral  adjoining  it. 

The  interior  is  shaped  as  a Greek  cross;  richly  carved  columns  support 
the  high  vaulted  roof.  There  is  a fine  main  altar  and  twelve  minor  ones. 
The  church  has  not  escaped  the  repairer’s  work,  but  there  is  much  of  the 
antique  elegance  that  renders  it  intensely  interesting.  There  are  some  fine 
pictures;  in  the  baptistry  is  a fine  fresco  by  Jose  Gines  de  Aguirre,  the  first 
professor  of  fine  arts  sent  from  Spain  and  placed  in  charge  of  the  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts.  The  fresco  represents  the  baptism  of  Jesus,  Constantin,  San 
Agustin  and  San  Felipe  de  Jesus.  There  is  also  a fine  St.  John  in  the  Desert 
after  Murillo. 

The  little  chapel  between  the  cathedral  and  the  Sagrario  was  built  in 
1750  and  called  San  Antonio,  from  an  image  placed  there.  Afterward  a 
pious  woman  placed  there  an  image  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Soledad,  since 
when  it  has  been  known  as  La  Capilla  de  la  Soledad. 

Completing  the  group  of  churches  and  chapels  about  the  cathedral  is  the 
Capilla  de  las  Animas,  adjoining  the  cathedral  in  the  rear,  and  really  a part 


101 


of  it,  facing  on  the  street  de  las  Escalerillas.  This  chapel  was  originally 
tenanted  by  a brotherhood  whose  duties  required  them  to  pray  for  the  re- 
lease of  souls  from  purgatory.  The  good  padre  Don  Cayetano  Gil  de  la 
Concha  died  October  7,  at  the  age  of  eighty-seven,  with  an  unbroken  record 
of  having  said  mass  45,324  times.  The  chapel  was  destroyed  by  fire  March 
3,  1748,  but  rebuilt  soon  after.  One  of  the  altars  supports  an  image  of  Santa 
Rita  de  Casia  that  is  greatly  venerated  by  the  Indians. 

In  all  this  great  cathedral  and  its  adjunct  churches  and  chapels  are  con- 
centrated the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  the  church  of  Rome,  that  for  cen- 
turies was  the  power  of  the  land,  and  within  the  walls  was  made  much  of 
the  country’s  history. 


A PENANCE. 


Santa  Ana,  on  the  street  of  the  same  name  a dozen  squares  directly 
north  of  the  Cathedral,  was  founded  by  the  Franciscans.  The  church  was 
dedicated  March  i6th,  1754,  and  became  an  independent  parish  in  i770-  The 
font  in  which  was  baptized  the  Indian  Juan  Diego,  to  whom  the  vision  of 
the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  appeared,  was  preserved  for  many  years  in  this 
church. 

San  Antonio  Abad,  established  in  1628,  is  on  the  street  of  that  name 
in  southern  part  of  the  city;  only  a chapel  of  the  original  church,  convent 
and  hospital  now  remains. 

La  Balvanera,  originally  a convent  and  church,  was  founded  in  1573. 
The  corner-stone  of  the  present  church  was  laid  May  3d,  1667,  and  dedicated 
December  6th,  1671,  is  located  at  the  corner  of  the  streets  of  Balvanera  and 
Olmedo,  about  three  squares  from  the  Plaza  Mayor,  south  two  and  east  one. 
The  church  was  built  by  a wealthy  lady.  Dona  Beatriz  de  Miranda,  but  the 
name  of  the  donor  was  not  known  until  after  her  death  and  that  of  her  at- 
torney, Don  Jose  de  Lombieda,  who  superintended  the  building. 


102 


Beleu  de  los  Padres  — Seven  squares  south  from  the  Alameda  on 
the  Calle  de  los  Arcos  de  Belen.  In  the  early  history  of  the  city  an  In- 
dian woman  named  Clara  Maria  owned  some  real  estate  near  what  is  now 
known  as  the  street  of  El  Salto  de  Aguas,  and  being  piously  inclined,  gave 
some  land  and  built  a monastery  for  the  Brothers  of  Mercy,  which  she  main- 
tained until  she  married  and  allowed  a bad  husband  to  squander  her  for- 
tune in  riotous  living,  and  was  herself  left  in  poverty,  to  be  taken  care  of  by 
the  Brothers.  Another  Indian,  Marcos,  gave  some  lands  and  his  service  for 
life;  then  another  woman.  Dona  Ysabel  de  Picazo,  gave  of  her  money  suffi- 
cient to  build  a church,  which  was  dedicated  in  1678,  but  the  present  church 
was  not  completed  till  1735,  through  the  beneficence  of  Don  Domingo  del 
Campo  y Murga.  The  church  has  some  fine  paintings,  and  connected  with  it 
is  the  Colegio  de  San  Pedro  Pascual. 

San  Bemardo,  one  square  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor,  through  the  little 
street  of  Callejuela,  was  intended  for  a convent  and  was  built  from 
’money  bequeathed  by  Don  Juan  Marquez  de  Orozco,  whose  desire  was  for 
it  to  be  occupied  by  the  Cistercian  Sisters,  but  none  of  that  order  being  in 
the  country  three  sisters  of  the  donor  opened  the  nunnery  and  lived  there, 
and  their  successors  until  the  suppression  of  convents.  The  first  church  was 
built  by  Don  Jose  Retes  Largache,  1685-90. 

Santa  Brigida,  on  the  corner  of  2d  Independencia  and  San  Juan  de 
Letran,  one  square  south  of  San  Francisco  street,  near  the  Alameda,  is  the 
fashionable  church  of  the  city.  The  order  of  St.  Bridget  was  introduced  into 
Mexico  through  the  gifts  of  Don  Jose  Francisco  de  Aguirre  and  his  wife, 
Doha  Gertrudis  Roldan,  in  1743,  and  by  these  pious  persons  the  church  was 
built  in  1744  and  dedicated  on  the  21st  of  December  of  that  year.  When  the 
nuns  were  banished  from  the  country  and  their  property  confiscated  this 
church  was  bought  in  by  a wealthy  family,  who  gave  it  for  church  uses.  There 
is  nothing  of  the  antique  about  Santa  Brigida;  it  is  the  fashionable  church  of 
the  capital  and  is  kept  in  repair  and  up-to-date  in  its  appointments. 

San  Caitiilo,  five  squares  south  and  one  east  of  the  Plaza  Mayor,  on 
the  Calle  de  la  Encarnacion,  is  now  occupied  by  the  Catholic  Theological  Semi- 
nary and  the  name  changed  to  Seminario  Conciliar.  The  church  is  a very 
pretty  one  indeed,  with  its  tasteful  decorations  in  white  and  gold.  The  Or- 
der of  Carmilists,  whose  was  the  care  of  the  sick  and  consolation  of  the 
dying,  was  established  in  Mexico  in  1755  through  Father  Diego  Martin  de 
Moya. 

La  Caridad  — This  church,  on  the  Calzada  de  Santa  M.aria,  near  the 
Plazuela  de  Villamil,  three  squares  north  of  the  Alameda,  is  all  that  remains 
of  the  Convent  and  College  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  established  at  a cost 
of  nearly  $200,000  by  Padre  Bolea  Sanchez  de  Tagle,  who  wished  to  found 
an  institution  for  the  protection  of  Indian  girls  whose  beauty  might  ex- 
pose them  to  the  temptations  and  snares  of  the  world,  but  the  hopes  of  the 
good  Padre  were  never  realized,  as  the  building  was  not  completed  before 
his  death.  The  convent  has  always  been  called  the  Colegio  de  las  Bonitas, 
College  of  the  Pretty  Girls,  and  was  used  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  whose 
order  was  founded  in  Mexico  by  Doha  Maria  Ana  Gomez  de  la  Cortina,  who 
paid  the  passage  of  twelve  of  the  Sisters  from  Spain,  who  arrived  in  Mexico 
November  15th,  1844,  when  the  good  woman  herself  donned  the  habit  and 
joined  the  order.  She  died  and  was  buried  in  1846  in  the  patio  of  the  con- 
vent, where  her  tomb  now  is,  and  by  her  will  the  church  of  La  Caridad  was 
built,  at  a cost  of  nearly  $150,000,  dedicated  May  8th,  1854,  General  Santa 
Ana  acting  as  sponsor,  or  padrino.  For  their  good  works  the  Sisters  of 
Charity  were  for  a time  exempted  from  expulsion  by  the  Laws  of  the  Re- 


103 


form,  but  when  the  Laws  became  a part  of  Constitution  in  1874  the  order 
was  suppressed,  and  the  Sisters  left  Mexico  in  February,  1875,  being  the  last 
of  the  religious  orders  to  leave  the  country. 

El  Carmen  — The  Carmelites  arrived  in  Mexico  in  October,  1585,  and 
after  many  trials  and  tribulations  established  a monastery  and  church  of  their 
own,  in  1605 — which  was  pulled  down  and  the  foundations  laid  for  a magnifi- 
cent church  that  was  never  completed.  The  chapel  was  finished,  however, 
and  is  still  in  use  on  the  Plaza  de  la  Concordia,  seven  squares  north  and  one 
east  of  the  Cathedral. 

Santa  Catalina  de  Sena  was  built  by  two  pious  ladies  named 
Felipas  and  placed  in  possession  of  two  nuns  of  the  Dominican  order,  who 
came  from  a convent  in  Oaxaca.  The  corner-stone  was  laid 
in  1615,  and  the  church  dedicated  March  7th,  1623.  The 


CHURCH  STATUARY— SANTA  ROSA. 

convent  was  closed  by  the  Laws  of  the  Reform,  but  the  church,  on  Calle 
Cerbatana,  four  squares  north  of  the  Cathedral,  remains. 

Santa  Catarina  Martir  is  a very  old  church.  The  present  church, 
on  the  corner  of  the  street  of  that  name  and  Calle  del  Cuadrante,  seven  squares 
north  of  the  Cathedral,  was  built  on  the  site  of  the  first  building  and  dedi- 
cated in  1662;  the  decorations  are  quaintly  done  and  has  some  altars  totally 
unlike  any  others.  The  good  Dona  Ysabel  de  la  Barrera,  wife  of  Don  Simon 
de  Haro,  was  the  benefactress  who  gave  the  money  to  build  the  church. 

Santa  Clara,  on  the  corner  of  Vergara  and  Santa  Clara,  two  squares 
north  from  San  Francisco  street,  stands  in  evidence  of  the  base  uses  to  which 
some  of  the  churches  of  Mexico  have  come  under  the  Laws  of  the  Reform. 
The  convent  is  now  a livery  stable  and  one  of  the  chapels  is  a shop.  His- 
tory says  that  Francisca  de  San  Agustin  and  her  five  daughters  took  the 
vows  of  the  order  of  Santa  Clara  and  that  Don  Alonzo  Sanchez  and  his 


104 


wife  gave  then  a house  on  the  site  of  the  present  church,  and  they  estab- 
lished a convent  here  in  December,  1579— and  a church  was  founded  that 
was  dedicated  October  22d,  1661.  Burned  in  1755,  the  church  was  restored 
at  once  and  remains  to  this  day,  though  denuded  of  its  fine  altar  and  other 
decorations  that  were  the  work  of  Pedro  Ramirez.  The  convent  was  closed 
February  13th,  1861.  ^ 

Colegio  de  las  Nitfas  was  founded  by  the  famous  Fray  Pedro  de 
Gante  in  1548  as  free  schools  for  girls,  and  from  the  benevolence  of  its  in- 
stitutions soon  acquired  great  wealth,  which  was  confiscated  under  the  Re- 
form Laws,  but  the  church  on  the  street  of  same  name,  one  square  south 
of  San  Francisco  street,  still  remains.  ^ 

Nuestra  Seiiora  de  la  Concepcion  was  the  first  convent  of  Mexico, 
and  was  established  by  Fray  Antonio  de  la  Cruz,  a monk  of  the  order 
of  San  Francisco,  who  brought  here  three  nuns  from  the  convent  of 
Santa  Ysabel  de  Salamanca,  in  Spain.  The  first  building  was  demolished  in 
1644  and  the  present  church  and  convent  built  at  a cost  of  nearly  $300,000 
through  the  generosity  of  Don  Tomas  Suaznaba  and  the  donors  of  the  church 
of  Santa  Catarina  Martir,  and  at  one  time  was  one  of  the  wealthiest  in  Mex- 
ico, owning  nearly  $2,000,000  worth  of  property,  and  the  convent  a most 
fashionable  one,  if  we  may  say  a convent  -is  fashionable.  The  first  families 
were  represented  in  the  nuns  of  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Conception. 
Originally  the  church  was  magnificently  decorated,  and  some  of  the  former 
splendor  has  survived  the  modern  repairer;  over  the  main  altar  is  an  image 
of  La  Purisima  Concepcion,  the  origin  of  which  is  unknown.  A legend  says 
that  at  one  time  there  was  back  of  the  organ  a dropping  of  water  from  the 
roof,  the  source  of  which  was  never  discovered,  but  one  of  the  nuns  read 
the  interpretation  in  a vision  that  appeared  to  her,  viz.,  that  the  drops  of 
water  marked  off  the  years  of  the  convent’s  existence,  and  that  when  the 
water  ceased  to  drop  it  would  come  to  an  end — but  the  story  does  not  add 
that  the  falling  water  ceased  when  the  Laws  of  the  Reform  were  put  in 
force,  but  there  was  the  end  of  the  convent.  Since  then  the  streets  of  Pro- 
greso and  Cincuenta-siete  have  been  opened  through  the  grounds,  and  the 
buildings  used  for  schools  and  dwellings.  The  very  high  tower  is  on  the 
Plaza  de  la  Concepcion,  at  the  corner  of  the  Callejon  de  Dolores,  four  squares 
north  of  San  Francisco  street. 

Corpus  Cristi  was  established  as  a convent  for  the  reception  of  In- 
dian girls  only,  and  they  to  be  of  noble  families,  which  was  the  decree  of 
Pope  Benedict  XIII,  dated  June  26th,  1727,  at  the  solicitation  of  Don  Bal- 
tazar  de  Zuniga,  Marques  de  Valera,  Viceroy  at  that  time,  and  at  whose  ex- 
pense of  $50,000  the  first  convent  and  church  was  built.  The  corner  stone 
was  laid  September  12th,  1720,  and  the  church  dedicated  July  loth,  1724.  Some 
nuns  from  the  other  convents  of  the  city  took  possession  and  prepared  to  receive 
the  Indian  novices,  establishing  the  custom  that  when  they  took  the  veil  they 
should  always  be  dressed  in  the  most  elaborate  costumes  of  the  Indians,  but 
this  passed  away  at  the  closing  of  the  convent.  The  church  near  the  Calle 
de  la  Concepcion,  opposite  the  Alameda  on  the  south  side,  remains  open. 

San  Cosme  is  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the  city,  established  by 
Fray  Juan  de  Zumarraga,  first  Archbishop  of  Mexico,  about  the  year  1538, 
as  a hospital  for  Indians,  and  dedicated  the  chapel  to  Cosmo  and  Damian, 
the  holy  Arabian  doctors.  The  enterprise  not  succeeding,  the  establishment 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Franciscans,  who  built  a monastery  and  church  in 
1600.  The  present  church  was  built  soon  after,  Don  Agustin  Guerrero  be- 
ing the  donor  of  the  ground  and  paying  for  the  foundations,  but  for  many 
years  remained  incpmplete,  till  one  day  Captain  Don  Domingo  de  Canta- 


brana  was  overtaken  on  the 
Tacuba  road  by  a violent 
thunder  storm  and  sought 
shelter  in  the  monastery. 
He  was  so  kindly  treated 
by  the  monks  that  he  gave 
them  $75,000  with  which  to 
complete  the  monastery  and 
church.  The  corner-stone 
was  laid  in  1672,  August 
29th,  and  the  church  dedi- 
cated three  years  later, 
January  13th,  to  Nuestra 
Sehora  de  la  Consolacion, 
but  the  old  name  of  San 
Cosme  remains.  The  mod- 
est Captain  Don  Domingo 
declined  the  honor  of  being 
the  patron,  asking  them  to 
accept  San  Jose  in  his  stead 
— in  memory  of  which  a 
painting  was  placed  in  the 
church  representing  the 
transfer  of  the  title  of 
patron  from  the  good  Cap- 
tain to  San  Jose.  The  pic- 
ture is  a curious  one,  show- 
ing San  Pedro  among  the 
angels  hovering  over  a co- 
terie of  monks,  with  Don 
Domingo  and  a notary  in 
the  act  of  attesting  the 
papers.  An  inscription  tells 
the  story.  The  painting  is 
by  Don  Jose  de  Alcibar. 
There  is  an  image  of  San 
Antonio  that  the  legend 
says  restored  a little  child 
to  life,  and  an  image  of  Our 
Lady  of  Consolacion  which 
rescued  a little  girl  from 
drowning  in  a well.  Near 
the  picture  is  the  tomb  of 
Viceroy  Don  J u an  d e 
Acuna,  Marques  de  Casa- 
fuerte,  who  died  March  17, 
1734.  The  monastery  be- 
came a military  hospital  in 
1855,  with  Sehora  Doha  Do- 
lores Tosta  de  Santa  Ana, 
wife  of  General  and  Presi- 
, dent  Santa  Ana,  as  god- 
mother, but  was  finally 


106 


abandoned  in  1862.  It  was  in  the  tower  of  this  church  that  Lieutenant  U. 
S.  Grant  placed  a howitzer  and  used  it  with  such  advantage  in  the  battle  of 
the  13th  of  September,  1847;  the  church  is  on  the  street  of  San  Cosme,  about 
a mile  west  of  the  Alameda. 

Santa  Cruz  Acatlan,  on  the  Plazuela  de  Santiago,  is  one  of  the  oldest 
of  the  Indian  churches,  with  the  usual  convent  attachment.  The  convent  was 
closed  when  the  nuns  were  expelled,  but  the  church,  with  its  historic  pictures, 
remains  open. 

Santa  Cruz  y Soledad  was  founded  as  an  Indian  mission  in  1534. 
The  present  church  was  finished  and  dedicated  October  21st,  1731.  The  al- 
tars and  chapel  decorations  are  by  celebrated  Mexican  artists.  There  is  an 
image  of  Nuestra  Sehora  del  Refugio  in  the  church  that  ^as  formerly  fastened 
to  a wall  in  the  Calle  del  Refugio,  which  street  took  its  name  from  the  image 
whose  fiesta  is  annually  celebrated  here  on  the  4th  of  June.  The  church  is  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  near  the  Garita  de  San  Lazaro. 

San  Diego  is  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  just  west  of  the  Alameda. 
The  original  foundation  was  by  the  Franciscans,  who  commenced  to  build  in 
1591,  but  the  church  was  not  completed  till  1621.  The  present  church  com- 
prises the  walls  of  the  old  one.  The  church  is  handsomely  decorated  and  has 
some  fine  pictures  by  the  noted  artist  Vallejo,  among  which  are  the  “Prayer 
in  the  Garden,”  ‘The  Last  Supper”  and  other  subjects  in  the  life  of  the 
Savior,  arid  on  each  side  of  the  altar  allegorical  pictures  of  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe  and  San  Jose.  The  expenses  of  building  the  first  church  were  paid 
by  Don  Mateo  Mauleon  and  his  wife,  and  the  tabernacle  in  the  present  church 
was  built  through  the  efforts  of  Fray  Carnago. 

Satito  Dotiiitigo,  originally  a monastery  and  church,  now  a church 
only,  the  monastery  having  been  demolished,  as  was  also  a part  of  the  church, 
in  opening  streets  under  the  Laws  of  the  Reform.  The  first  church  was 
dedicated  in  1575  and  destroyed  by  the  inundation  of  1716.  The  present  build- 
ing was  completed  in  1736,  and  remained  intact  till  the  opening  of  the  streets 
by  the  Government  in  1861.  The  church  is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsom- 
est in  the  city  and  has  some  fine  pictures,  among  which  are  the  Crucifixion 
and  San  Yldefonso.  The  church  fronts  on  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo,  in 
the  center  of  which  is  a statue  of  Seriora  Dona  Josefa  Dominguez,  the  heroine 
of  Mexican  Independence,  whose  remains  rest  in  the  panteon  of  Queretaro. 
Here,  the  traveler  is  told,  is  the  spot  where  the  Aztecs  saw  the  eagle  with  the 
serpent  and  held  it  as  an  omen  for  the  site  of  the  city,  four  squares  north 
of  the  Cathedral. 

Nuestra  Seuora  de  la  Eucaruaciou  was  in  its  day  of  splendor  the 
most  magnificent  convent  in  Mexico.  The  original  church  cost  Don 
Alvaro  de  Lorenzana  over  $100,000  to  build.  The  corner  stone  was  laid  De- 
cember i8th,  1639,  and  the  church  dedicated  March  7th,  1648,  when  the  deco- 
rations alone  cost  nearly  $40,000.  Later  a magnificent  cloister  was  built  and 
still  remains  intact.  The  property  owned  by  the  institution  amounted  to 
over  $1,000,000,  and  when  all  the  convents  were  closed  the  pictures  were 
brought  and  stored  here.  In  1886  the  building  was  utilized  as  a Law  School 
and  a seminary  for  young  ladies.  Many  of  the  old  decorations  remain,  and 
the  modern  use  of  gold  leaf  has  added  to  their  lavishness.  Three  squares 
north  of  the  Cathedral  on  the  street  of  the  same  name. 

Ensenatiza  Autigua  was  established  in  1754.  The  convent  was  in 
later  years  occupied  by  the  Palacio  de  Justicia  and  a school  for  the  blind. 
The  church  is  still  open  and  has  some  good  pictures  by  native  artists.  It 
is  on  the  Calle  de  Cordobanes,  two  squares  north  of  the  Cathedral. 


107 


San  Femaiido  — The  corner-stone  was  laid  October  nth,  1735,  and 
the  church  dedicated  April  20th,  1755.  It  was  much  injured  by  the  earth- 
quake of  1858,  since  which  repairs  have  done  much  to  obliterate  its  former 
magnificence,  but  many  fine  pictures  remain. 

San  Francisco  — The  original  church  and  monastery  was  the  great- 
est in  all  Mexico,  and  its  name  is  closely  identified  with  the  great  events  of 
the  country’s  history,  from  Cortez  to  Comonfort  and  Juarez.  Established  by 
the  Twelve  Apostles  of  Mexico  and  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante,  who  came  to 
Mexico  City  three  years  after  its  occupation  by  Cortez,  the  first  church  v/as 
built  in  the  grounds  that  had  been  the  wild  beast  garden  of  Montezuma. 
The  building  material  was  taken  from  the  great  teocali  of  Aztecs,  in  what 
is  now  the  Plaza  Mayor,  Cortez  contributing  the  building  fund.  The  grounds 


DOMES  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

covered  three  great  squares  in  the  very  center  of  the  city,  bounded  on  the 
north  by  First  San  Francisco  Street,  on  the  south  by  the  Calle  de  Zuleta,  on 
the  east  by  Calles  Coliseo,  and  Colegio  de  las  Ninas,  and  on  the  west  by  San 
Juan  de  Letran,  an  estate  that  would  now  be  worth  more  than  a million  dol- 
lars for  the  ground  alone,  which  are  now  occupied  by  Hotels  Iturbide,  San 
Carlos  and  Jardin,  and  the  adjoining  stores  and  residences,  an  estate  worth 
some  more  millions.  The  history  of  this  great  house  of  Franciscans  from 
the  zenith  of  its  power  to  its  downfall  would  fill  volumes  with  its  incidents. 
Cortez  heard  masses  from  its  altars,  and  within  its  walls  his  bones  were  en- 
tombed. In  this  church  the  Viceroys  attended  mass  and  lent  their  presence 
at  the  great  festivals.  Here  was  sung  the  first  Te  Deum  of  Mexican  Inde- 


108 

penclence,  General  Agustin  Yturbide  being  in  the  assemblage,  and  here  he, 
too,  was  buried. 

The  church  flourished  and  the  Brothers  went  about  doing  good,  and 
they  prospered  until  the  evil  day  came  when  they  thought  to  put  the  State 
under  the  rule  of  the  Church,  and  a conspiracy  tending  to  the  overthrow  of 
Government  was  discovered  and  it  was  reported  to  President  Comonfort  the 
14th  of  September,  1856,  that  the  Franciscans  were  at  the  head  of  a revolt 
and  that  the  blow  was  to  be  struck  on  the  15th,  Independence  day.  The 
President,  acting  with  his  accustomed  promptness,  sent  his  troops  to  the 
monastery  early  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  and  arrested  the  entire  com- 
munity of  monks,  took  possession  of  church,  monastery  and  grounds;  on  the 
l6th  a decree  was  announced  opening  a new  street  called  Independencia  that 
cut  the  grounds  from  east  to  west.  Two  days  later  another  decree  cited  the 
treason  of  the  Franciscans  and  suppressed  the  monastery. 

The  decree  of  suppression  was  rescinded  in  the  following  February,  and, 
although  shorn  of  its  greatness  and  some  of  its  real  estate,  the  monastery 
was  restored  and  continued  in  a feeble  way  till  the  entry  of  the  army  of 
Juarez,  on  the  27th  of  December,  i860,  when  the  great  monastery  was  closed 
forever.  The  ornaments,  jewels  and  paintings  were  taken  to  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts,  the  interior  decorations  were  defaced  and  the  altars  removed. 
In  April  another  street  was  opened  through  the  property,  with  the  scant 
satisfaction  to  the  Franciscans  that  the  street  was  called  Gante,  in  honor 
of  the  greatest  of  their  order. 

Soon  the  construction  of  dwelling  houses  began,  and  stores  were  built, 
the  monastery  became  a hotel,  and  the  refectory,  where  there  was  room  for 
five  hundred  brothers  to  sit  together  at  the  table,  became  a stable — and  the 
church,  after  an  almost  royal  existence  of  three  hundred  and  thirty  years,  be- 
came a Protestant  Cathedral  with  scarcely  a memory  of  its  Catholic  glory. 

The  main  church  of  San  Francisco,  as  it  existed  up  to  i860,  was  dedicated 
December  8th,  1716.  It  was  a magnificent  structure,  60  feet  wide  by  230  feet 
long,  with  a dome  and  lantern  over  a hundred  feet  high;  the  great  walls 
were  covered  with  pictures,  and  thousands  and  thousands  of  dollars  were  ex- 
pended in  decorations,  the  silver  tabernacle  over  the  altar  costing  $25,000. 

Rather  than  a church  there  was  a group  of  seven  churches,  called  by  dif- 
ferent names,  but  all  were  San  Franciscan.  The  only  remaining  one  of  the 
group  is  that  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Aranzazu,  and  that  is  now  known  as 
San  Felipe  de  Jesus.  The  entrance  is  on  First  San  Francisco  Street,  where 
a new  facade  has  been  built  that  is  joined  to  the  old  walls  whose  corner- 
stone was  laid  in  1683,  on  the  25th  of  March.  Many  of  the  elegant  interior 
decorations  remain.  In  walking  around  the  block  bounded  by  the  streets 
of  San  Francisco,  San  Juan  de  Letran,  Independencia  and  Gante  remains 
of  the  fagades  of  the  old  churches  may  be  seen.  The  Hotel  Jardin  was  the 
infirmary  and  lodging  house  of  the  monastery.  Across  the  garden  is  the  old 
refectory,  now  a livery  stable.  The  Yturbide  Hotel  is  on  grounds  intended 
for  a convent,  and  the  San  Carlos  is  within  the  line  of  the  walls  of  old  San 
Francisco. 

In  1869  the  great  church  was  sold  to  the  Protestant  Church  of  Jesus  in 
Mexico.  Trinity  (Methodist  Episcopal)  Church  was  constructed  from  a por- 
tion of  the  old  walls,  and  Christ  Church,  Church  of  England,  occupies  an- 
other part.  Dwellings,  stores,  shops,  hotels,  restaurants,  are  built  on  the 
grounds  of  the  ancient  church  and  monastery. 

San  Geroiilitio  was  founded  as  a convent  in  1586,  noted  particularly 
as  the  convent  where  the  great  poetess  of  Mexico,  Juana  Inez  de  la  Cruz, 
took  the  veil,  and  where,  after  a long  and  useful  life,  she  died  April  17th, 


109 


tablet  of  SAN  HIPo'lITO. 


1695.  The  convent  was,  of 
course,  suppressed  with  all 
the  others.  The  church  is 
on  the  street  of  the  same 
name.  ^ 

San  Hipolito  marks 
the  spot  of  the  terrible  de- 
feat of  the  Spaniards  by  the 
Aztecs  on  that-  fearful,  dis- 
mal night,  la  Noche  Triste; 
the  re-entry  of  the  Span- 
iards to  the  city  was  made 
on  the  day  of  San  Hipolito, 
August  13th,  1521,  and  one 
of  the  soldiers,  Juan  Gar- 
rido,  built  a little  chapel  of 
adobe  in  memory  of  his 
comrades  who  fell  that 
night.  The  chapel  was  called 
for  its  founder,  then  called 
the  “Chapel  of  the  Mar- 
tyrs,” and  finally  it  was 
named  San  Hipolito  of  the 
Martyrs,  and  by  that  name 
the  church  is  still  known. 

The  church  was  com- 
menced in  1509,  but  was  not 
completed  till  1739.  For 
many  years  the  13th  of  Au- 
gust was  celebrated  by  the 
Brothers  marching  in  the 
Procession  of  the  Banner, 
in  which  was  carried  the 
crimson  standard  of  the 
Conquest. 

On  a corner  of  the  wall 
surrounding  the  front  of 
the  church  is  a tablet  com- 
memorating the  defeat  of 
the  Dismal  Night.  Cut  in 
the  solid  stone  is  the  figure 
of  an  eagle  bearing  an  In- 
dian in  his  talons,  sur- 
rounded by  musical  instru- 
ments arrows,  spears,  and 
trophies  of  the  Aztecs.  A 
large  medallion  bears  this 
inscription  in  Spanish : “So 
great  was  the  slaughter  of 
the  Spaniards  by  the  Az- 
tecs at  this  place  on 
the  night  of  July  ist, 
1520 — so  called  for  that 


no 


reason  the  Dismal  Night — that  after  having  in  the  following  year  re-entered 
the  city  in  triumph,  the  conquerors  resolved  to  build  here  a chapel,  to  be 
called  the  Chapel  of  the  Martyrs;  and  which  should  be  dedicated  to  San  Hip- 
olito  because  the  capture  of  the  city  occurred  on  that  Saint’s  day.” 

The  church  in  the  broad  street,  the  continuation  of  La  Avenida  de  los 
Hombres  Ilustres,  that  runs  along  the  north  side  of  the  Alameda,  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  street,  one  square  west  of  the  Alameda. 

Hospital  Real  and  church  was  originally  established  under  a royal 
order  in  1553  as  a hospital  for  the  Indians  and  placed  under  the  management 
of  the  Brothers  of  San  Hipolito,  who  built  the  Theatre  Principal  for  the  pur- 
pose of  raising  money  from  the  performances  for  the  support  of  the  hospital; 
these  methods,  and  the  taxes  on  the  Indians  of  a measure  of  corn  or  a medio, 
634  cents,  per  annum,  failed  to  maintain  it,  and  the  hospital  became  a Medical 
College,  the  second  in  America.  The  University  of  Pennsylvania  (1764)  was 
the  first.  Finally,  from  lack  of  support,  it  was  closed  and  the  church  became 
a Presbyterian  mission,  located  just  south  of  the  Hotel  Jardin,  one  square. 

Santa  Inez  was  founded  in  1600  by  the  Marqueses  de  la  Cadena.  The 
church  was  dedicated  January  20th,  1770.  The  facade  is  richly  decorated  in 
the  Ionic  order,  and  the  doors  handsomely  carved.  The  church  was  closed 
for  many  years,  but  re-opened  under  the  name  of  the  Sagrado  Corazon  de 
Jesus,  but  the  old  name  is  mostly  in  use.  It  is  in  the  street  of  the  same  name, 
three  squares  east  of  the  Cathedral. 

Jesns  Maria — Founded  in  1577  by  two  pious  men,  Don  Pecho  Tomas 
Denia  and  Don  Gregorio  de  Pasquera,  with  the  idea  that  the  descendants 
of  the  Conquerors  should  be  the  nuns.  The  convent  was  occupied  in  1580, 
removed  to  its  present  site  in  1582,  at  which  time  there  came  a nun  to  this 
convent  who  was  said  to  be  a daughter  of  Phillip  the  Second  of  Spain  and 
a niece  of  the  then  Archbishop  and  later  Viceroy  of  Mexico  and  first  In- 
quisitor General,  Don  Pedro  Moya  de  Contreras.  This  story  is  substan- 
tiated by  the  contributions  to  the  convent  of  large  sums  of  money  from  the 
Royal  Treasury  of  Spain  and  the  Viceroyal  exchequer  of  Mexico. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  church  was  laid  March  9th,  1597,  and  dedication 
took  place  February  7th,  1621.  The  church  contains  some  handsome  pictures, 
notably  a St.  Thomas  and  a Virgin  and  Infant  Christ  by  Jimeno,  and  a Christ 
in  the  Temple  by  Cordero.  Location,  two  squares  north  of  the  National 
Palace. 

Jesus  Nazareuo  was  founded  by  Cortez  immediately  after  the  perma- 
nent occupation  of  the  city,  and  by  his  will  left  ample  endowment  for  its 
building  and  support,  but  it  was  nearly  a hundred  years  before  it  reached  an 
era  of  prosperity,  and  the  church  whose  building  commenced  in  1575  was 
not  dedicated  till  ninety  years  after,  when  the  name  was  changed  from  the 
original  one  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Purisima  Concepcion  to  Jesus  Nazareno, 
from  the  miraculous  image  of  Jesus  of  Nazareth  that  came  into  its  posses- 
sion through  the  death  of  a pious  Indian  woman  to  whom  it  had  belonged. 

The  church  has  suffered  little  from  modern  repairs  and  renovations.  The 
handsomely  carved  wooden  roof  remains,  but  the  doors  and  other  wood- 
work were  renewed  in  1835.  The  old  altars  and  the  large  tabernacle  are  still 
in  place. 

Another  notable  image  is  that  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Bala,  that  was  once 
the  property  of  a poor  Indian  of  Ixtapalapan,  who,  the  legend  says,  took  his 
gun  with  the  intent  of  shooting  his  wife.  The  terrified  woman  fell  down  be- 
fore the  image  and  implored  the  protection  of  the  Virgin — and  when  the  shot 
was  fired  it  was  found  that  the  old  man  was  not  a particularly  good  marks- 
man, and  that  the  ball  had  lodged  in  the  image,  after  which  husband  and 


Ill 


wife  became  reconciled  as  they  perceived  that  a miracle  had  been  performed. 
The  image  was  kept  in  the  church  of  San  Lazaro  for  two  hundred  years  and 
brought  to  Jesus  Nazareno  in  1884.  The  bones  of  Cortez  rested  in  this  church 
for  awhile.  The  Conqueror  directed  that  should  he  die  in  Spain  his  bones 
should,  after  ten  years,  be  taken  to  Mexico  and  placed  in  the  Convent  of  La 
Concepcion,  that  it  was  his  intention  to  build,  but  which  never  was  built. 
Cortez  died  in  Castilleja  de  la  Questa,  in  Spain,  December  2d,  1547.  The  body 
was  deposited  in  the  tomb  of  the  Dukes  of  Medina  Sidonia,  and  ten  years  later 
was  taken  to  Mexico  and  placed  in  the  Church  of  San  Francisco,  in  Texcoco, 
where  it  remained  till  1629.  On  the  30th  of  January  of  that  year  his  grand- 
son, Don  Pedro  Cortez,  died,  the  last  of  the  male  line.  It  was  concluded  to 
remove  the  remains  of  the  Conqueror  and  bury  them  with  the  grandson  in 
the  Church  of  San  Francisco,  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  which  was  done  with 
great  pomp  and  ceremony,  and  here  his  bones  reposed  for  one  hundred  and 
sixty-five  years. 


On  the  2d  of  July,  1734,  the  bones  were  removed  again  and  placed  in  a 
magnificent  marble  mausoleum  in  the  Church  of  Jesus  Nazareno,  remaining 
there  for  nearly  thirty  years.  During  the  revolutionary  times  of  the  war  for 
Independence  the  hatred  of  the  people  for  the  Spaniards  threatened  even  the 
bones  of  the  great  soldiers  of  the  Conquest,  and  on  the  night  of  the  15th  of 
September,  1823,  they  were  removed  and  secreted  in  another  part  of  the 
church,  and  later  taken  out  secretly  and  sent  to  Spain,  and  were  finally  laid 
to  rest  in  the  tombs  of  the  Dukes  of  Monteleone  in  Italy.  His  bones  having 
crossed  the  Atlantic  twice,  were  interred  six  times  in  as  many  different  places, 
and  finally  have  rested  neither  in  the  land  of  his  birth,  or  in  the  country  he 
conquered. 

In  the  Church  of  Jesus  Nazareno  are  buried  some  men  of  note:  Don  Man- 

uel Vilar,  the  sculptor;  Don  Lucas  Alaman,  the  historian;  Col.  Manuel  Cal- 
deron, and  Fray  Juan  Crisortomo  Najera. 


112 

The  church  is  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  three  squares  south  of  the 
Plaza  Mayor^ 

San  Jose  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  four  squares  south  of  the 
Alameda,  was  founded  by  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante  in  1524.  The  present  church 
was  built  by  Don  Diego  Alvarez,  who  was  at  once  a lawyer,  parish  priest 
and  decorative  artist,  and  who,  with  his  own  hands,  made  the  frescoes.  The 
walls  were  cracked  by  the  earthquake  of  July  19th,  1858,  and  the  church 
was  practically  rebuilt,  at  which  time  it  fell  heir  to  some  of  the  altars,  bells, 
etc.,  that  were  being  taken  from  the  dismantled  church  of  San  Francisco, 
receiving  its  final  dedication  June  20th,  1861,  more  than  three  hundred  years 
after  its  foundations  were  laid. 

San  Jose  de  Gracia  was  founded  as  a convent  and  church  in  1610, 
and  fifty  years  later  the  present  church  was  built.  The  convent  suppressed, 
the  church  became  the  property  of  the  State,  and  in  1870  was  sold  to  the  Pro- 
testants. On  the  street  of  the  same  name,  four  squares  south  and  one  east 
of  the  National  Palace. 

San  Juan  de  Dios,  opposite  the  Alameda,  on  the  north  side,  was 
founded  in  1582,  dedicated  1629,  destroyed  by  fire  and  commenced  rebuilding 
1766.  The  recessed  fagade  and  portal  are  very  handsome,  and  is  in  strange 
contrast  with  the  low  surrounding  houses,  among  which  was  a cheap  variety 
theater. 

Sail  Juan  de  la  Peiieteticia  was  founded  as  a chapel  of  San  Juan 
Bautista  in  1524  by  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante.  A convent  was  added  in  1593,  and 
both  church  and  convent  were  supported  by  alms  given  by  the  Indians,  at 
whose  instance  and  by  whose  efforts  the  convent  was  established.  After  a 
while  there  came  a great  earthquake,  and  the  church  would  have  been  de- 
stroyed but  for  the  uplifted  arm  of  an  image  of  the  Child  Jesus,  that  pre- 
vented the  great  arch  of  the  church  from  falling,  and  the  church  stood  till  it 
was  pulled  down  and  rebuilt  in  1695,  at  the  expense  of  Dona  Juana  Villasenor 
Lonielin.  Location,  four  squares  south  of  the  Alameda,  near  the  Calle  de 
las  Artes  ^ 

San  Lazaro  was  originally  a hospital  for  lepers,  founded  by  Dr.  Pedro 
Lopez  in  1572,  and  for  nearly  a hundred  and  fifty  years  was  supported  by  him 
and  his  estate,  and  by  the  Brothers  of  St.  John  till  the  order  was  suppressed, 
in  1821.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1721  at  a cost  of  nearly  $100,000, 
and  was  one  of  the  finest  in  Mexico.  The  location  is  about  twelve  squares  east 
of  the  Cathedral,  at  the  end  of  the  street  passing  from  the  southeast  corner.  , 

San  Lorenzo,  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  four  squares  north  of 
San  Francisco  street,  was  originally  an  Agustinian  convent.  The  church  was 
built  by  Don  Juan  Fernandez  Riofrio  and  dedicated  July  i6th,  1650.  The 
convent  has  since  been  occupied  by  the  School  of  Arts. 

Nuestra  Senora  de  Loreto,  the  church  of  the  leaning  tower,  is 
two  squares  north  and  two  squares  east  of  the  Cathedral.  It  is  a Jesuit  founda- 
tion of  1573,  the  original  church  being  made  of  canes  and  reeds,  dedicated 
to  San  Gregorio.  In  1675  Father  Juan  Zappa  brought  the  image  of  Our  Lady 
of  Loreto  and  the  plans  for  her  house  to  Mexico.  Chapels  were  built  in  1686 
and  1738,  but  not  until  1809  was  the  present  church  commenced,  and  in  1816, 
August  29,  it  was  dedicated.  The  work  was  paid  for  by  Senor  Don  Antonio 
de  Bassoco  and  his  wife.  La  Marquesa  de  Castaniza,  the  total  cost  being  nearly 
$600,000.  The  architecture  is  somewhat  different  from  the  prevailing  style. 
There  are  four  rotundas  rising  to  a superb  dome  above  the  arches.  The  in- 
terior decorations  are  very  beautiful,  and  there  are  some  fine  paintings  by 
Joaquin  Esquivel  from  the  life  of  Loyola  of  San  Gregorio  and  a portrait  of 
Father  Zappa.  Owing  to  some  defects  in  the  foundation  or  building  material 


113 


one  side  of  the  church  commenced  to  sink,  which  was  aggravated  by  the  inun- 
dation, and  the  church  was  closed  in  1832;  eighteen  years  later  it  was  found 
that  there  was  no  danger  of  the  leaning  towers  toppling  over,  and  the  church 
was  reopened  in  1850. 

Nuestra  Sefiora  de  los  Angeles,  fronting  the  Palace  de  Zaragosa, 
about  a mile  north  of  the  Alameda,  is  a church  with  many  vicissitudes 
in  its  history  that  commenced  in  1580,  when  an  Indian  chief  called  Isayoque 
found  floating  on  the  waters  of  the  great  inundation  of  that  year  a very  beau- 
tiful picture  of  the  Virgin,  and  when  the  waters  had  subsided  he  built  a chapel 
of  adobe  in  which  to  keep  the  canvas  he  had  found,  but  for  some  reason  con- 
cluded not  to  keep  it  there  at  all,  and  had  a replica  of  the  picture  painted  by 
an  eminent  artist  in  a very  beautiful  manner  on  the  adobe  walls  of  the  chapel. 


OLD  BRIDGE,  COYOACAN. 

Fifteen  years  later  a larger  chapel  was  built  over  the  adobe  one,  preserving 
the  wall  on  which  the  picture  was  painted,  which  had  so  many  angels  about 
the  picture  of  the  Virgin  that  the  new  chapel  came  to  be  called  Our  Lady 
of  the  Angels. 

Having  its  origin  in  the  floods  of  the  valley,  misfortune  came  to  the  church 
again  through  the  inundation  of  1607,  and  great  damage  was  done  to  the 
picture,  but  the  face  and  hands  remained  uninjured,  which  was  regarded  as  a 
miracle.  The  church  was  repaired,  but  not  until  two  hundred  years  later, 
when  the  present  church  was  built,  through  the  good  offices  of  Senor  Larra- 
goitis,  and  completed  in  the  year  1808. 

The  miraculous  painting,  so  much  of  it  as  was  not  lost  in  the  melting  away 


114 


of  the  adobe  in  the  water,  remains,  the  missing  portions  being  covered  by  a 
dress  made  in  the  shop  of  a good  tailor  named  Jose  de  Haro  in  1776.  It  is 
now  covered  by  a glass  casing  to  prevent  further  injury.  Among  the  other 
pictures  is  an  ecpiestrian  painting  of  Santiago  that  came  from  the  church  of 
Santiago  Tlaltelolco  when  it  was  closed  by  the  government.  Here,  also,  is 
preserved  a stone  bearing  date  of  1595  that  came  from  the  walls  of  the  second 
chapel. 

Santa  Maria  La  Redonda,  on  the  Plaza  de  Santa  Maria,  four 
squares  north  of  the  Alameda,,  was  founded  in  1524,  and  came  to  have  many 
Indian  worshipers,  one  of  whom  started  to  make  an  image  for  his  church;  one 
day  he  was  called  from  his  work,  and  when  he  returned  found  the  image  mirac- 
ulously completed.  Many  miracles  were  performed  by  the  image,  and  it  is 

greatly  venerated  since 
the  quenching  of  a fire  in 
church  on  the  nth  of  De- 
cember. In  this  church 
was  preserved  for  many 
years  the  coiled  feathered 
serpent  emblem  of  the  god 
Quetzaecoatl.  The  stone, 
inverted,  its  hollow  base 
was  used  as  a font  for  holy 
water.  The  Feast  of  the 
Assumption  was  celebrat- 
ed in  great  style  by  the  In- 
dians every  year,  attract- 
ing great  crowds;  some 
students  at  one  time  made 
light  of  the  processions 
and  the  Indians  resenting, 
a riot  ensued,  after  which 
the  Archbishop  forbade 
the  people  going  there 
any  more  on  that  feast 
day. 

San  Miguel,  eight 
squares  south  of  the  Ca- 
thedral, is  the  church  of  the  butchers,  who  celebrate  their  saint’s  day  October 
i8th  of  each  year.  The  church  was  founded  in  1690,  the  present  church  being 
opened  in  1692,  and  in  1714  was  greatly  enlarged  and  received  the  dedication 
to  San  Miguel.  The  church  was  repaired  in  1850,  but  the  quaintly  carved  old 
doors  remain. 

Nuestra  Sefiora  de  Mouseratte,  built  in  1590,  has  an  image  of  the 
Virgin  of  Monseratte  brought  from  Monseratte,  in  Spain,  a replica  of  the 
famous  image  that  is  there.  The  brotherhood  of  Monseratte  did  many  good 
works  by  their  teachings  in  Mexico,  and  introduced  fruits  and  vegetables  from 
the  old  country.  When  the  order  was  suppressed  the  pictures,  among  which 
was  St.  John  in  the  Desert,  were  placed  in  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  The 
church  is  on  Calles  Verde  and  Monseratte,  seven  squares  south  and  one  west 
of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Sau  Pablo,  six  squares  south  and  three  east  from  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
near  the  Plaza  de  San  Pablo,  was  founded  in  1569,  the  present  church  in  1580, 
but  was  not  completed  till  about  the  year  1800. 

Santo  Tomas  La  Palma,  on  the  Plazuela  de  la  Palma,  in  the  south- 


JUDASES. 


115 


east  part  of  the  city,  about  a mile  from  the  Cathedral,  was  founded  in  1550. 
The  carvings  of  the  altars,  roof  and  doors  are  interesting. 

Porta  Coeli  was  founded  by  the  Dominicans  August  i8th,  1603,  origi- 
nally a college  that  was  suppressed  in  i860,  but  the  very  interesting  church 
remains.  On  the  facade  is  inscribed  from  the  Bible  in  Latin:  Terribles  est 

locus  isle  Domus  Dei.  et  Porta  Coeli,  On  the  street  of  the  same  name,  one 
square  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

La  Profesa  was  founded  by  the  Jesuits  in  1595.  The  existing  church 
was  dedicated  as  La  Casa  Profesa  de  la  Compania  de  Jesus.  Up  to  the  time 
of  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  from  Mexico  in  1767  the  church  had  accumulated 
much  property,  which  reverted  to  the  Government,  and  part  of  it  bought 
in  by  the  order  San  Felipe  Neri,  and  the  church  was  then  called  San  Jose  el 
Real,  Oratorio  de  San  Felipe  Neri,  al- 
though the  old  name  of  La  Profesa  is 
most  in  use.  The  church  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Mexico,  designed  by  Pelegrin 
Clave  and  his  pupils,  Petronilo  Monroy, 

Felipe  Castro  and  Jose  Ramirez,  who 
painted  its  pictures  and  made  the  mag- 
nificent white  and  gold  decorations,  al- 
though the  altar  is  the  work  of  Tolsa. 

The  most  prominent  pictures  are  the 
Adoration  of  the  Cross  and  the  Seven 
Sacraments.  The  drapings  of  velvet  in 
crimson,  with  gold  embroideries,  that 
are  used  in  the  great  fiestas  were  pre- 
sented by  Father  Manuel  Sanchez  de 
Tagle  y Bolea.  The  pretty  little  gar- 
den on  San  Francisco  Street  was  planted 
by  order  of  the  City  Council;  on  the 
other  side  of  the  church  property  some 
of  its  buildings  were  demolished  for  the 
opening  of  the  Calle  de  Cinco  de  Mayo. 

The  church  is  on  Profesa  or  Third  San 
Francisco,  at  the  corner  of  Calle  San 
Jose  Real,  two  squares  west  of  the  Plaza 
Mayor. 

Regina  Coeli,  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city,  on  the  plaza  and  street 
of  the  same  name,  six  squares  from  San  Francisco  Street,  was  built  in  1553 
originally,  the  present  church,  in  1731,  being  dedicated  September  13th  of  that 
year.  The  interior  decorations  are  marvelously  beautiful,  in  carvings  of  wood, 
in  colors  and  in  gold,  presented  by  the  good  Fray  Jose  Lanciego  y Eguiluz. 

Salto  del  Agua  was  so  called  from  the  fountain  near  the  church — the 
curiously  carved  fountain  at  the  end  of  the  aqueduct  from  Chapultepec.  The 
corner  stone  was  laid  March  19th,  1750.  The  church  is  at  the  corner  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Tecpan  de  San  Juan,  , seven  squares  south  of  First  San  Francisco 
Street. 

Santiago  Tlaltelolco  was  the  church  attended  by  the  good  Indian 
Juan  Diego,  in  which  he  was  baptized  and  to  where  he  was  going  to 
hear  mass  when  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  appeared  to  him.  In  1524  the  Francis- 
cans established  a chapel  on  this  site;  in  1537  a college  was  established  for  the 
education  of  the  Indians,  and  from  which  many  eminent  Mexicans  proceeded. 
The  college  was  closed  in  1578,  reopened  in  1667,  closed  again,  and  reopened 
in  1728,  and  finally  closed  in  1811,  and  the  great  domed  church  used  as  a custom 


THE  FIRST  SHRINE  IN  MEXICO. 


116 


house,  while  the  convent  has  been  made  a prison.  The  font  in  which  Juan 
Diego  was  baptized  was  taken  to  the  church  of  Santa  Ana,  images  and  paintings 
to  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los  Angeles.  The  church  is  about  two  miles  north  of  the 
Cathedral. 

La  Santisima  has  a most  beautiful  facade,  richly  and  most  elaborately 
carved,  and  has  an  interior  decoration  that  is  interesting,  though  hardly  in 
keeping  with  the  outer  walls.  The  original  foundation  was  in  1658.  Its  pur- 
pose was  a convent,  and  later  a hospital  for  the  poor.  The  second  church  was 
dedicated  in  1677,  and  the  present  one  January  17th,  1783.  The  church  is  five 
squares  directly  east  of  the  Cathedral. 

San  Sebastian  was  founded  by  Fray  Pedro  De  Gante  in  1524,  with  a 
hospital  attachment.  Two  squares  east  and  three  north  of  the  Cathedral. 

Santa  Teresa  La  Antigua,  originally  a convent  of  the  Sisters  of 
Santa  Teresa,  began  its  history  in  a lawsuit.  Don  Juan  Luis  de  Rivera  pro- 
vided by  his  will  to  build  the  convent.  His  heirs  not  carrying  out  the  pro- 
visions of  the  will,  the  Archbishop  Don  Juan  Perez  de  la  Serna  brought  suit 
and  caused  the  money  to  be  paid  and  the  deeds  of  land  and  houses  turned 
over  to  him.  A new  trouble  then  came  up — the  people  refused  to  vacate  the 
houses.  The  energetic  Archbishop  gained  an  entrance  by  night,  July  4th,  1615, 
into  the  patio  and  erected  an  altar,  and  hung  the  bells  which  he  rang  at  day- 
light summoning  the  people  to  mass,  after  which,  the  astonished  people  were 
notified  that  he,  the  Archbishop,  had  taken  possession  in  the  name  of  the 
Church;  that  they  must  go  at  once,  and  they  stood  not  upon  the  order  of  their 
going.  The  work  of  tearing  down  the  houses  commenced  that  day,  and  in 
less  than  a year  the  nuns  were  admitted  to  their  convent. 

The  installation  was  attended  by  the  wife  of  the  Viceroy  and  the  noble 
ladies  of  the  land,  one  of  the  ladies  in  waiting  of  the  Vice-Queen  being  so 
impressed  that  she  became  the  first  novice. 

The  corner  stone  of  the  present  church  was  laid  October  8th,  1678,  and 
^.he  church  was  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sehora  la  Antigua,  September  loth,  1684. 

A miraculous  crucifix,  brought  from  Spain  in  1545,  originally  in  a churci 
of  Cardonal,  in  the  State  of  Hidalgo,  is  in  this  church.  The  legend  says  that 
at  one  time  an  accident  befell  the  crucifix  and  so  disfigured  it  that  it  was  thrown 
into  the  fire,  but  the  flames  did  not  affect  it;  then  it  was  buried,  and  after 
awhile  it  was  resurrected  and  finally  grew  to  its  original  freshness  and  beauty. 
The  Archbishop  Serna  had  it  brought  and  placed  in  an  oratory,  and  later 
his  successor,  Don  Francisco  Manzo  de  Zuniga,  built  a chapel  for  it,  but 
intending  to  bring  it  to  the  city,  and  finally  when  he  sent  for  it  the  people  of 
Cardonal  refused  to  let  it  go,  and  a pitched  battle  ensued  between  them  and 
the  Archbishop’s  men,  but  they  triumphed,  and  it  was  brought  to  the  church 
of  Santa  Teresa  la  Antigua  and  a chapel  built  for  it. 

After  a while,  as  the  fame  of  the  miracles  of  this  crucifix  were  noised 
abroad,  the  old  chapel  was  abandoned  and  a new  one  built  that  became  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  city.  The  corner  stone  of  the  new  chapel  was 
laid  in  1798,  December  17th,  and  the  chapel  dedicated  May  17th,  1813.  It  was 
a gift  from  Don  Manuel  Flores  and  was  the  work  of  the  architect  Don  Antonio 
Valasquez.  The  magnificent  church  was  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the  earth- 
quake of  April  7th,  1845.  The  crucifix,  although  it  had  gone  through  fire,  been 
buried  and  resurrected,  was  but  slightly  damaged.  Pending  the  repairing  of  the 
chapel  the  crucifix  was  taken  to  the  Cathedral,  remaining  there  till  1858, 
when,  on  the  9th  of  May,  it  was  taken  back  to  its  place  with  great  pomp  and 
ceremony. 

The  new  chapel  retains  much  of  the  beauty  of  the  old  one,  and  has  some 
very  fine  pictures,  among  which  is  a Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 


117 


The  church  is  one  square  east  of  the  Cathedral,  on  a short  street  called 
Santa  Teresa,  running  north  from  opposite  the  rear  of  the  Palace. 

Santa  Teresa  La  Nueva  is  one  square  north  from  the  rear  ot  the 
Cathedral  and  two  squares  east,  opposite  the  Plaza  of  Loreto.  The  corner 
stone  was  laid  September  21st,  1701,  and  dedicated  January  25th  1715. 

Santa  Vera  Cruz  was  founded  by  Hernando  Cortez,  the  Conqueror, 
and  instituted  a Brotherhood  of  the  True  Cross,  whose  duties  were  to  comfort 
condemned  criminals  prior  to  their  execution  and  afterward  to  bury  them. 

The  church  contains  a crucifix  in  a shrine  behind  seven  veils— and  at  the 
time  of  its  establishment,  about  the  year  i574,  one  hundred  days  of  indulgence 
were  granted  to  all  who  visited  the  holy  image  at  the  unveiling.  And  oven 
now  it  is  customary  to  grant  indulgencies  on  certain  days,  usually  on  each 

Friday  of  the  year, 
to  all  who  will  visit 
the  image.  The 
crucifix  is  called 
El  Senor  de  los 
Stele  Velos,  the 
Lord  of  the  Seven 
Veils.  The  present 
church  was  dedi- 
cated in  i730>  Oc- 
tober 14th.  The 
church  is  on  the 
Plaza  de  Morelos, 
opposite  the  Ala- 
meda', ' on  the  north 
side,  on  the  Av- 
enida  de  los  Hom- 
bres  Ilustres. 

TH©  Inquisi- 
tion.— In  1527,  by 
a royal  order,  all 
Jews  and  Moors 
were  banished  from 
Mexico  — this  was 
the  beginning  of 
the  Inquisition. 
Two  years  later  a 
council,  consisting 
of  Bishop  Fuenleal, 

President,  and  the  other  members  of  the  Audencia,  Bishop  Zumar- 
raga,  the  chiefs  of  the  Franciscan  and  Dominican  orders,  the  munici- 
pal authorities  and  two  prominent  citizens,  met  in  the  City  of  Mexico 
and  made  public  this  declaration:  'Tt  is  most  necessary  that  the  Holy 

Office  of  the  Inquisition  shall  be  extended  to  this  land,  because  of 
the  commerce  with  strangers  here  carried  on,  and  because  of  the  many 
corsairs  abounding  upon  our  coasts,  which  strangers  may  bring  their  evil 
customs  among  both  natives  and  Castilians,  who,  by  the  grace  of  God,  should 
be  kept  free  from  heresy.”  Whereupon  the  Inquisition  was  duly  organized 
and  commenced  its  work  immediately. 

In  1570,  under  a royal  order  dated  August  i6th,  Don  Pedro  Moya  de  Con- 
treras— afterward  Archbishop  and  Viceroy — was  appointed  Inquisitor  Gen- 
eral for  Mexico,  Guatemala  and  the  Philippine  Islands,  with  official  quarters 


FREIGHT  DEPOT  IN  A CHURCH  AT  CUAUTLA. 


118 


in  the  City  of  Mexico — only  the  Indians  being  exempted  from  trial  and  con- 
sequent and  inevitable  conviction  and  execution  by  this  tribunal. 

Although  the  Inquisition  was  practically  organized  in  1529,  as  Vetancourt, 
a contemporary  writer,  says  with  rather  an  energetic  zeal:  “The  tribunal 

of  the  Inquisition,  the  strong  fort  and  mount  of  Zion,  was  founded  in  Mexico 
in  the  year  1571.  They  have  celebrated  general  and  particular  autos  de  fe 
with  great  concourse  of  dignitaries,  and  in  all  cases  the  Catholic  faith  and  its 
truth  have  remained  victorious.” 

The  popular  meaning  of  *‘"‘auto  de  has  always  been  taken  to  be  the 
burning  of  a victim  of  the  Inquisition,  and  this  is  what  it  always  did  mean, 
although  these  words  were  applied  to  the  public  ceremony  after  the  secret 
trial,  which  ceremony  commenced  with  a profession  of  faith  by  the  members 
of  the  tribunal,  and  those  assembled,  of  their  belief  in  Christianity  and  the 
Church.  Then  the  tribunal  announced  the  charge  against  the  victims,  and 
the  verdict,  following  with  a recommendation  to  mercy,  the  poor  victims 
were  turned  over  to  the  authorities  for  punishment,  which  meant  death  in  the 
fire,  for  the  Inquisition  had  but  one  charge,  heresy,  and  one  verdict,  death  in 
the  flames. 

St.  Dominick  was  the  originator  of  the  Inquisition,  and  the  Dominicans 
gave  a monastery  in  Mexico  for  the  chamber  of  the  tribunal,  which  was 
rebuilt  and  enlarged,  but  no  record  of  it  remains.  But  the  building  on  the 
Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo,  now  occupied  as  a Medical  College,  commenced  in 
1732  and  completed  in  1736,  was  occupied  by  the  tribunal  for  many  years. 
It  was  a foregone  conclusion  that  a person  summoned  before  the  Inquisition 
was  already  condemned,  and  that  when  he  went  forth  again  from  the  court  it 
was  to  the  fiery  stake.  It  is  said  of  a Colonel  of  Mexican  cavalry  who  was 
commanded  to  appear  before  the  tribunal  that  he  marched  his  regiment  there 
and  drew  his  soldiers  up  in  line  in  front  of  the  building  where  the  Inquisition 
was  sitting,  telling  his  soldiers  of  the  summons,  and  that  if  he  did  not  return  in 
twenty,  minutes  they  should  enter  and  find  him.  What  transpired  within  will 
never  be  known,  but  the  Colonel  was  back  again  at  the  head  of  his  regiment 
before  the  twenty  minutes  expired.  It  is  probable,  though,  that  the  inquisitorial 
court  was  prepared  to  execute  one  man  only,  and  not  a regiment. 

The  first  auto  de  fe  in  Mexico  was  in  the  year  1574,  when  “twenty-one 
pestilent  Lutherans”  were  burned  to  death,  after  which  there  was  almost  an 
annual  feast  of  fire  for  these  teachers  of  Christianity  (?)  and  brotherly  love — 
though  it  is  said  that  in  many  cases  the  victims  were  mercifully  strangled  be- 
fore they  were  burned — as  in  the  auto  de  fe  of  April  nth,  1649,  fifteen  persons 
were  burned,  but  only  one  burned  alive,  Tomas  Trevino,  a Spaniard  of  Sobre- 
monte,  in  Castile.  It  was  alleged  that  he  had  “cursed  the  Holy  Office  and  the 
Pope,”  and  he  was  tied  to  the  stake  and  burned  alive. 

The  place  of  execution  by  fire  was  called  the  brazero^  or  as  it  was  a plat- 
form of  stones,  it  was  called  quemedaro.  One  was  located  on  an  open  space 
now  occupied  by  the  Alameda  where  the  Fray  Vetancourt  says  exultingly 
that  there  was  a good  view  from  the  doors  of  the  church  of  San  Diego, 
where  the  ashes  of  the  victims  were  thrown  in  the  marsh  at  the  rear  of 
the  church.  Great  crowds  assembled  around  the  stake,  extending  to  the 
Plaza  of  San  Hipolito,  or  sat  upon  the  arches  of  the  aqueduct  as  a better 
point  of  view.  Another  burning  place  for  minor  crimes,  like  murder  and 
highway  robbery,  was  in  the  Plaza  de  San  Lazaro,  but  the  principal  brazcro 
was  at  the  south  end  of  the  Alameda.  ^ ^ 

The  reign  of  terror  of  the  Inquisition  continued  till  1812,  the  year  of 
the  adoption  of  the  Liberal  constitution  in  Spain,  and  on  the  22d  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1813,  the  Inquisition  was  suppressed  by  the  Spanish  Cortes  in  Spain, 


119 


Mexico  and  the  Spanish  colonies,  promulgated  in  Mexico  on  the  8th  of  June 
following,  by  the  Viceroy’s  proclamation,  declaring  the  property  of  the  tri- 
bunal confiscated  and  ordering  the  removal  from  the  Cathedral  of  the  tablets  on 
which  were  inscribed  the  names  of  the  victims. 

When  Ferdinand  VII.  regained  the  throne  of  Spain  the  Inquisition  re- 
turned to  power  and  took  possession  of  its  property — which  in  Mexico  was 
on  the  2ist  of  January,  1814 — but  it  was  short  lived.  The  last  auto  de  fe  was 
the  execution  of  the  patriot  Morelos  on  the  26th  of  November,  1815 — the 
charge  was  that  “the  Presbitero  Jose  Maria  Morelos  is  an  unconfessed  heretic, 
an  abettor  of  heretics,  and  a disturber  of  the  ecclesiastical  hierarchy;  a pro- 
faner  of  the  holy  sacraments ; a traitor  to  God,  the  King  and  the  Pope” — 
and  this  great  soldier,  patriot  and  Christian  was  condemned,  beforehand,  to 
“do  penance  in  a penant’s  dress — and  was  delivered  to  his  executioners.  He 


CHURCH  AND  PLAZA  DE  SANTO  DOMINGO. 

was  shot  December  22d,  1815.  The  Liberal  constitution  of  Spain  was  revived 
in  March,  1820,  and  in  May  of  that  year  the  Inquisition  was  suppressed  in 
Mexico  as  the  last  place  of  its  existence,  but  its  judges  escaped  justice,  the 
fanatics  that  had  thrown  down  the  Aztec  altars  of  human  sacrifice,  and  visited 
a vengeance  upon  the  barbarian  judges,  lived  through  their  generations  to 
commit  deeds  more  cruel,  for  it  was  in  His  name  they  judged, 


120 


Protestantism  is  not  modern  in  Mexico  and  strange  to  say  it  came 
there  first  from  Spain.  In  1770  the  liturgy  of  the  Gothic  Christians  of  Spain 
was  published.  It  was  the  Mazarabic  Liturgy  that  was  in  use  before  the 
liturgy  of  the  Roman  Church  was  introduced  into  Spain,  introduced  into 
New  Spain  under  the  auspices  of  the  then  Archbishop  of  Mexico,  Francisco 
Antonio  Lorenzana,  and  the  then  Bishop  of  Puebla,  Francisco  Fabian  y 
Fuero.  This  was  the  first  step  toward  the  introduction  of  Protestantism.  In 
1868  a decisive  move  was  made  by  the  Protestants  of  the  United  States  and 
in  1869  the  Church  of  Jesus  in  Mexico  was  organized  and  prospered  under 
its  first  Bishop,  Henry  C.  Riley,  ordained  by  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church 
of  the  United  States. 

Aid  was  extended  by  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  of  the  United  States 
and  by  the  Church  of  England,  and  some  of  the  finest  church  buildings  of 
Mexico  were  obtained  for  the  use  of  the  Protestants,  notably  those  of  San 


A LONE  WORSHIPER. 

Francisco  and  San  Jose  de  Garcia,  but  recently  resold  to  the  Catholics. 

The  Presbyterians  commenced  their  work  in  1872  with  stations  in  most 
of  the  large  cities,  securing  also  some  interesting  old  churches. 

The  Methodists  began  in  1873  and  have  prospered  till  there  are  circuits 
in  the  various  states  of  the  Republic. 

The  Baptists  came  later,  establishing  churches  and  schools  throughout 
the  country. 

The  Society  of  Friends  have  also  made  some  progress  in  Mexico. 

Protestant  Churches — Trinity  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  situated  at 
No.  5 Gante  Street  and  opposite  the  west  entrance  to  the  Hotel  Iturbide, 
was  built  upon  the  site  and  remodeled  out  of  a portion  of  the  historic  convent 
of  San  Francisco,  wherein  for  a time  lay  the  remains  of  the  conquistador 
Cortes. 

Services  are  held  in  the  English  language  by  the  pastor  and  in  Spanish 
by  the  pastor  of  the  Mexican  congregation.  Each  have  separate  and  com- 


121 


modioiis  auditoriums.  The  pastors’  residences  are  also  in  the  building,  as 
is  also  that  of  the  presiding  elder  of  the  district,  who  is  the  official  agent  of  the 
M.  E.  Missions  in  the  Republic  of  Mexico.  The  M.  E.  Mission  press  rooms  are 
also  under  the  same  roof  and  doing  excellent  work  for  the  cause,  printing  and 
distributing  annually  over  a million  pages  pertaining  to  mission  work.  Their 
weekly  family  paper,  the  “Abogado  Cristiano,”  is  a credit  to  the  society  and  in 
“make  up”  not  excelled  by  many  elsewhere. 

The  adherents  of  the  Baptist  denomination  hold  services  in  Spanish  in  a 
very  neat  and  commodious  modern-style  building  on  the  corner  of  Mina  and 
Humboldt  Streets.  The  parsonage  adjoins  the  same.  The  pastor,  with  an 
assistant,  conducts  the  services.  The  Baptist  Society  have  also  their  own  press 
rooms,  issuing  a family  paper  printed  in  Spanish  and  other  literature  devoted 
to  the  interests  of  their  society. 

The  Union  Evangelical  Society  (undenominational)  hold  services  in  a very 
comfortably  appointed  church  of  their  own  at  No.  608  First  Humboldt  Street. 
Presbyterian  Church  on  San  Juan  de  Letran  Street,  No.  12.  This  society  has 
also  a well-equipped  printing  establishment  and  are  doing  a vast  amount  of  good 
in  reaching  the  people  through  their  publications,  among  which  is  an  excellent 
family  paper,  the  “El  Faro”  (the  beacon  or  light-house). 

English  services  are  held  in  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  at  No.  4 Providencia 
Street. 

The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South  hold  services  in  the  church  in 
Avenida  Balderas.  As  is  the  case  with  the  Methodist  and  Presbyterian  Socie- 
ties, this  society  disseminates  a vast  amount  of  printed  matter  from  its  society 
press  rooms.  They  publish  a family  paper  and  all  manner  of  literature  pertain- 
ing to  the  mission  cause. 

Christian  Science,  at  416  Dolores  Street. 

Services  in  German  are  held  at  intervals  under  the  auspices  of  the  Lutheran 
Church. 

An  idea  of  the  inroads  Protestantism  is  making  in  this  country  may  be 
derived  from  the  fact  that  the  first  evangelical  work  attempted  in  this  country 
was  less  than  thirty  years  ago,  the  pioneer  missionary  being  Miss  Matilda 
Rankin,  of  Illinois,  but  not  until  eighteen  seventy-two  was  missionary  work 
organized,  so  that  it  may  be  said  that  there  has  been  but  twenty  years  of  evan- 
gelistic ^work  to  produce  the  following:  Centers  of  operation,  95;  congregations, 

over  700;  ordained  missionaries,  80;  assistant  foreign  missionaries,  70;  foreign 
ladies  in  mission  schools,  75.  Total  number  of  foreign  workers,  215.  Native 
ordained  men,  125;  native  unordained  men,  175;  native  teachers,  180 ; other  help- 
ers, 100.  Total  native  workers,  580;  total  number  of  foreign  and  native  workers, 
795.  Number  of  communicants,  22,000.  Ep worth  Leagues  and  Christian  En- 
deavor Societies,  216;  members  of  the  same,  6,943.  Number  of  Sabbath  Schools, 
379;  Sabbath  School  scholars,  13,562.  Children  in  schools,  12,000.  Total 
Protestant  community,  about  80,000. 

English  services  are  held  periodically  in  the  following  places : Chihuahua, 

Aguascalientes,  Silao,  Guadalajara,  Puebla,  Pachuca,  El  Oro,  San  Luis  Potosi 
and  Monterey. 

AROUND  THE  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO. 

Chapultepec — In  all  the  lovely  Valley  of  Anahuac,  none  of  the  hills 
cluster  so  many  beauties  as  cling  to  Chapultepec,  the  beautiful  Hill  of  the 
Grasshopper,  where,  the  legends  say,  under  the  grateful  shades  of  the  giant 
ahuehuetls,  was  the  home  of  Montezuma  and  the  Aztec  tzins.  When  the 
summer  days  were  long  they  came  from  old  Tenochtitlan,  over  the  long  cause- 


122 


way,  the  Emperor,  in  palan- 
quin borne,  the  first  in  the 
royal  pageant,  with  the 
princess  attended  by  plumed 
and  feathered  warriors,  and 
sat  them  down  to  rest  ere 
they  commenced  the  climb 
of  rugged  rocks.  Attend- 
ing slaves  rested  too  their 
waving  fans,  when  the  cool- 
ing zephyrs  from  the  trees 
fell  more  softly  on  the  mon- 
arch’s brow,  till,  less  lan- 
guid now,  before  the  ascent 
began  to  be  half-way  done, 
the  Aztec  lord  one  day  left 
his  palanquin,  when  he  had 
bade  its  carriers  put  it 
down,  and  entered  a cavern 
that  is  there ; and  while  the 
tzins  waited  his  return  they 
6 heard  his  voice  from  the 
Q.  rocks  high  above  them,  and 
H it  seemed  their  king  was  a 
D very  god,  since  none  knew 
< but  Montezuma  how  to  pass 
o thus,  through  the  earth  from 
iL  the  valley  to  the  hill-top,  and 
° all  the  people  shouted  in  ad- 
J oration  of  their  fair  god. 
w It  is  in  the  legends  that 
o the  palace  of  the  Montezu- 
mas  was  on  the  Hill  of  the 
Grasshopper,  called  Chapul- 
tepec,  and  here  the  Spanish 
Viceroy,  Don  Matias  de 
Galvaez,  commenced  in  1783, 
and  his  son  Don  Bernardo 
completed  in  1785,  the  pal- 
ace that  stands  there  to-day, 
but  since  each  recurring  vic- 
eroy, emperor  and  president 
has  proceeded  further  with 
its  completion,  adding,  each 
one,  to  its  size  and  cost, 
until  it  is  now  a palace  in- 
deed, the  home  of  the  Pres- 
ident of  Mexico  and  the 
seat  of  the  National  Mili- 
tary Academy. 

The  site  is  a sn])erb 
one,  reached  by  a winding 
carriage  road  on  one  i?idc 


123 


and  a steep  foot-path  on  another,  while  the  other  sides  are  precipitous,  with 
almost  perpendicular  cliffs.  The  carriage  road  and  foot-path  from  the  gates 
end  at  the  broad  esplanade  at  the  top,  where  the  sentinels  of  the  cadet  corps 
are  always  on  guard,  and  beyond  which  guard  there  is  no  passing,  except  by 
permit  from  the  Governor  of  the  National  Palace.  The  card  of  the  Governor 
is  not  taken  up  by  the  guard,  as  it  is  necessary  to  present  it  to  the  attendant 
in  charge  to  gain  admittance  to  the  palace.  The  view  from  the  esplanade  is 
beautiful  indeed.  Tacubaya,  almost  hidden  by  trees,  is  in  the  middle  dis- 
tance, and  beyond,  on  the  rising  hills,  other  towns  and  villages;  and  still  be- 
yond the  mountains  are  the  great  snow-capped  peaks  of  Popocateptl  and 
Ixtaccihuatl.  If  you  agree  that  the  vista  from  the  esplanade  is  very  beauti- 
ful, pass  through  the  garden  to  the  overhanging  gallery  on  the  other  side, 
and  look  out  over  the  broad  spreading  plain  of  the  valley.  To  the  right  is 
the  field  of  Churubusco,  and  far- 
ther on  to  the  east  sheltering  moun- 
tains. In  front,  the  magnificent  city, 
with  its  hundreds  of  towers,  the 
tallest  overshadowing  all  the  others, 
are  the  Cathedral’s.  Beyond  the  city’s 
spreading  squares  you  can  see  the  hill 
and  church  of  Guadalupe.  Following 
the  range  of  vision  round  to  the  left 
there  is  the  suburb  of  Tacuba,  the  hill 
of  Los  Remedios;  and  nearer  to 
where  you  stand  is  the  battleground 
of  Molino  del  Rey.  The  magnificence 
of  the  picture  baffles  all  description; 
it  is  wondrous  to  behold,  and  the 
memory  of  it  lives  with  you  always. 

Far  below  your  feet  the  tall  cypress- 
like trees  shade  the  modest  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  the 
cadets  who  fell  in  the  defense  of  the 
castle  from  the  assaulting  Americans 
in  ’47.  The  names  on  the  shaft  tell 
of  those  whose  lives  went  out  in  the 
merciless  fire  of  a superior  army.  A 
monument  was  not  needed  except  in 
their  honor,  for  the  memory  of  these 
brave  boys  lives  in  the  hearts  of  their 
countrymen.  There  are  fresh  beau- 
ties in  this  hanging  garden  filled 
with  pretty  flowers,  in  the  galleries, 
adorned  in  Pompeiian  color,  but 
much  grandeur  in  the  view, — and  you  wander  again  to  the  terrace  and 
gaze  over  the  valley  to  the  blue  rim  of  the  mountains; melting  into  the  lighter 
blue  of  the  sky,  and  are  loth  to  leave  even  for  the  magnificence  of  the  in- 
terior of  this  splendid  palace. 

The  salons  and  apartments  of  the  Castle  of  Chapultepec  have  the  appoint- 
ments of  regal  magnificence,  since  they  are  in  heritage  from  the  Viceroys  of 
olden  times  and  a latter-day  Emperor;  and  the  luxurious  beauty  of  the 
decorations  is  due  to  none  more  than  “poor  Carlotta,”  though  all  that  was 
indicative  of  the  empire  has  disappeared,  and  the  monogramed  “R.  M.”  ap- 
pears everywhere  to  remind  you  that  it  is  the  palace  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico. 


CADETS’  MONUMENT— CHAPULTEPEC. 

these  do  not  detain, — there  is  too 


124 


In  an  ante-room  at  the  corner  of  the  esplanade  are  two  chairs  that  be- 
longed to  Cortez,  but  there  is  little  else  of  more  ancient  date  than  Maxi- 
milian. The  family  rooms  of  the  President  consist  of  a magnificent  suite, 
reception  room,  boudoir,  bed  chambers,  dining  hall,  smoking  and  card  rooms, 
all  sumptuously  furnished  and  elegantly  decorated,  each  in  appropriateness 
and  good  taste.  A stairway  leading  to  the  upper  floors  has  on  the  surround- 
ing walls  the  coats  of  arms  of  all  the  rulers  of  Mexico  from  the  Toltec  tzins 
of  1474  to  the  republic  of  to-day.  If  you  have  passed  up  this  stairway  and 
out  to  the  terrace  and  garden  above,  you  may  reach  the  esplanade  again  by  a 
grand  stairway  of  marble.  It  is  not  easy  to  advise  how  to  go  or  which  way 
to  turn,  since  there  is  something  to  interest  at  every  step,  and  when  you 
have  passed  through  the  salons,  galleries,  gardens,  along  the  terrace,  ex- 
amined the  National  Observatory,  looked  into  the  well  that  drops  down  to 
the  cave,  you  will  still  not  be  ready  to  go,  for  there  has  been  so  much  in  the 
view  that  it  is  hard  to  grasp  it  all,  even  for  memory’s  sake.  In  the  bosque 
below  is  a magnificent  park  shaded  by  trees  that  were  giants  even  in  Monte- 
zuma’s time.  Here  are  walks  and  drives  in  miles  of  shady  way,  where,  in 

passing,  you  may  see 
Montezuma’s  tree, 
where  he,  too,  like 

Cortez,  sat  down  and 
wept  over  defeat;  see 
the  hieroglyphics  on 
the  rocks  of  the  cliffs 
under  the  castle,  near 
the  Cadets’  monu- 
ment, and  the  cave 

that  opens  on  the 
driveway  up  the  hill. 
There  is  little  left  of 
the  old  aqueducts 
built  by  the  Spanish 
viceroys,  save  a few 
arches,  and  the  old 
aqueduct  built  by  the 
Aztecs  has  long  since 
disappeared.  It  is  best 
THRESHING  WHEAT.  tO  gO  tO  ChapultepCC 

by  carriage,  as  the  walk  up  the  hill  is  a tiresome  one,  and  the  walk  is  neces- 
sary if  the  trip  is  made  in  the  Tacubaya  cars,  although  they  pass  the  gate  of 
the  park  and  very  near  the  castle.  Entrance  to  the  palace  is  impossible  with- 
out a permit. 

About  half  way  up  the  hill  on  the  left  of  the  carriage  road  is  the  cave  that 
connects  with  the  shaft  whose  top  is  in  the  garden  of  the  palace — the  pretty 
story  of  Montezuma’s  disappearance  into  this  cave  and  re-appearance  on  the 
rocks  above  is  prosaically  modernized  by  a paved  way  through  the  cave  and 
an  elevator  in  the  shaft. 

Moliiio  del  Rey,  the  field  of  the  battle  of  September  28th,  1847,  is  near 
Chapultepec,  and  may  be  seen  from  the  palace  terrace.  The  field  may  be 
reached  by  horse-cars  connecting  with  the  Tacubaya  line,  or  by  train  over 
the  Mexican  Central  Ry.,  Cuernavaca  division,  from  Buena  Vista  in  the  City. 
'The  battle  of  Molino  del  Rey  has  been  declared  by  General  Grant  to  have 
been  one  of  the  unnecessary  battles  of  an  unholy  and  unjust  war. 

ChurttbttSQO,  another  of  the  engagements  during  the  siege  of  the  Mcxi- 


126 


can  capital  by  the  Americans,  was  fought  August  20th,  1847,  under  the  Amer- 
ican Generals  Smith,  Worth  and  Twiggs.  A gallant  defense  was  made  by 
the  commander  of  the  Mexican  forces.  General  Don  Pedro  Maria  Anaya,  who 
in  answer  to  an  inquiry  by  General  Twiggs  after  the  battle  as  to  the  where- 
abouts of  the  ammunition,  gallantly  replied:  “Had  I any  ammunition,  you 

would  not  be  here.”  A monument  commemorative  of  the  battle  is  in  the 
village  plaza. 

In  Aztec  times  the  city  of  Huitzilopocho,  with  its  temple  to  the  god 
Huitzilopochtli,  stood  on  the  site  of  the  now  straggling  village  of  Churubusco. 
The  old  city  had  a bad  name  as  the  abode  of  evil  spirits  and  demons  that 
made  night  hideous  with  their  bowlings,  but  when  the  monks  built  a 
temple  to  the  true  gods  the  demons  of  Huitzilopochtli  vanished.  The  Church 
of  Santa  Maria  de  los  Angeles,  the  name  also  of  the  primitive  church,  was 
completed  in  1678,  May  2d,  under  the  patronage  of  Don  Diego  del  Castillo, 
a silver  merchant,  and  his  wife  Dona  Helena  de  la  Cruz,  whose  images  carved 
in  wood  are  still  preserved  in  the  church.  Although  almost  a ruin,  the 
church  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  Mexico,  and  there  are  still  re- 
mains of  its  former  great  beauty.  The  pretty  decorations  of  tiles  are  rap- 
idly disappearing,  and  the  richly  carved  organ  is  falling  into  decay.  There 
are  several  curious  pictures,  among  which  is  a fine  Assumption  of  the  Vir- 
gin. Take  Tlalpam  cars,  and  change  at  San  Mateo  or  the  cars  for  San  Angel 
to  reach  Churubusco. 

Mixcoac — is  a village  of  flowers  and — bricks.  The  beautiful  flowers  of 
the  market  in  the  city  nearly  all  come  from  the  gardens  of  Mixcoac,  as  do  the 
best  brick  used  in  the  city  houses.  La  Castaneda  is  a place  of  picnics  and 
fiestas  in  Mixcoac,  and  is  much  frequented  by  pleasure  parties  from  the  city. 
Take  San  Angel  cars  from  Tacubaya  and  ride  south  about  a mile. 

San  Angel— is  a place  of  summer  resorts  of  many  wealthy  citizens  of  the 
capital,  who  have  their  casas  de  recreo  here  among  the  gardens  and  orchards, 
now  very  much  neglected.  The  old  church  and  monastery  of  Our  Lady  of 
Carmen  is  very  interesting,  the  site  for  which  was  given  in  1613  by  Don  Felipe 
de  Guzman  to  the  Carmelite  Brothers.  The  architect  was  Fray  Andres  de 
San  Miguel,  one  of  the  first  artists  of  his  day.  The  building  was  commenced 
in  1615  and  completed  two  years  later.  The  beautiful  tiled  domes  and  the 
towers  are  well  preserved,  although  some  of  the  interior  beauties  are  spoiled 
by  renovation.  The  church  was  dedicated  to  San  Angelo  Martir,  from  which 
the  town  received  its  name.  In  1633  the  dedication  was  changed  to  Santa 
Ana,  in  honor  of  a wealthy  and  very  charitable  lady.  Dona  Ana  Aguilar  y 
Nino.  The  gardens  and  orchards  were  once  very  extensive,  now  only  a tan- 
gled forest  of  brush  and  decaying  trees.  The  view  from  the  towers  is  very 
fine,  overlooking  the  surrounding  gardens  and  the  valley.  Take  cars  for 
Tacubaya,  and  thence  to  San  Angel  or  take  Tlalpam  cars,  and  change  to  the 
cross-country  line  at  San  Mateo. 

Coyoacaii — was  once  the  capital  of  Mexico  and  is  older  than  the  City  of 
Mexico,  since  Cortez  established  the  seat  of  government  here  August  17th, 
f52i,  and  from  Coyoacan  laid  out  the  plans  and  directed  the  founding  of  the 
city,  and  here  were  the  feasts  celebrating  the  victories  of  the  Conquest.  On 
the  north  side  of  the  plaza  stands  the  house  in  which  the  Conqueror  lived  for 
many  days  with  La  Marina,  his  faithful  guide  and  interpreter.  The  coat  of 
arms  of  Cortez  is  over  the  doorway.  Near  this  house  is  another  with  a 
garden,  where  Cortez  also  dwelt,  and  in  the  garden  a well  in  which  he 
drowned  his  wife,  who  lies  beneath  the  cross  on  the  mound  in  a near-by 
church-yard.  The  Church  of  San  Juan  Bautista  was  built  in  1583,  founded 
at  the  same  time  with  the  Dominican  monastery  in  1530  by  Fray  Domingo 


126 

cle  Vetanzos.  The  stone  cross  on  the  mound  in  the  church-yard  was  placed 
there  by  Cortez. 

The  Pedregal,  or  “stony  place,”  is  within  a short  walk  of  Coyoacan,  south- 
ward on  the  road  that  runs  in  front  of  the  Church  of  San  Juan  Bautista.  A 
picturesque  place  with  stone  houses,  cactus-hedged  paths  and  clear  running 
streams.  Coyoacan  is  reached  by  horse-cars  from  Tacubaya,  or  from  San 
Mateo,  on  the  Tlalpam  line. 

Tacubaya  is  the  prettiest  place  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  with  its  beauti- 
ful gardens,  parks  and  shaded  streets,  lovely  flowers  and  luxuriant  trees 
everywhere,  so  that  it  is  no  wonder  that  here  is  the  place  of  the  summer 
homes  of  the  wealthiest  people  in  the  Mexican  capital.  The  location  of  the 


EL  SALTO  DE  AGUA,  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


little  city,  on  the  slope  of  the  hills  back  of  Chapultepec,  is  so  advantageous 
that  it  was  contemplated  at  one  time,  after  the  great  inundation  of  the  City 
of  Mexico  in  1629  and  ’34,  to  make  this  the  site  of  the  national  capital.  At 
that  time  Tacubaya  was  called  Atlacoloayan,  the  “place  in  the  bend  of  the 
stream;”  but  after  its  settlement  by  the  Spaniards  it  became  known  as  Tacu- 
baya de  los  Martires. 

The  principal  church  is  that  of  San  Diego,  but  the  parish  church  and  the 
old  monastery  of  the  Dominicans  are  worthy  of  a visit.  The  one-time  palace 
of  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico  was  afterwards  used  as  the  National  Astronomical 
Observatory.  The  palace  was  built  in  1737  by  the  Archbishop  and  Viceroy 
Vizarron.  Before  its  removal  to  Chapultepec  the  National  Military  Academy 
occupied  this  palace. 


The  Alameda  and  the  Plaza  de 
Cartagena  are  pretty  places,  with 
trees,  flowers  and  fountains.  In  the 
west  part  of  the  city  are  the  quaint 
old  mills  of  Santo  Domingo,  and 
near  them  the  Arbol  Benito,  “the 
blessed  tree.”  The  story  goes  that  a 
monk  passing  that  way  was  wearied 
and  so  rested  was  he  under  the 
grateful  shade  that  he  blest  the  tree 
and  bade  it  be  always  green.  Im- 
mediately there  came  from  its  roots 
a spring  of  cold  clear  water.  That 
this  is  true,  you  may  see  that  the  tree 
is  ever  green,  and  the  brook  goes 
on  forever.  Tacubaya  has  been 
called  the  Monte  Carlo 
of  Mexico,  and  not  in- 
aptly so.  There  is 
gambling  there  by 
gamblers  of  all  sorts, 
sizes,  ages  and  condi- 
tions, on  the  streets, 
under  the  white  um- 
brellas, in  booths  under 
the  trees,  where  you 
may  wager  a penny  or 

a peso.  In  the  gardens  wandering  minstrels. 

are  games  that  savor  of  Monte  Carlo  indeed.  There  are  tables  for  Monte, 
Rouge  et  Noir,  or  any  other  you  please.  The  tables  are  crowded  all  the 
time,  particularly  in  the  evening,  when  the  stakes  are  high,  as  much  as 


twenty  and  thirty  thousand  silver  dollars  may  be  on  the  tables  at  one  time. 
There  are  dozens  of  rooms  in  one  garden,  for  games,  refreshment,  music  and 
dancing,  while  the  gardens  are  lighted  with  many  colored  lights  that  make 
the  scene  one  of  enchantment.  Bull  fights  and  cock  fights  are  the  other  at' 


128 


tractions  that  go  to  entertain  in  this  intensely  interesting  town. 

Two  or  three  lines  of  cars  start  from  the  Plaza  Mayor  in  the 
city  for  Tacubaya. 

Tlalpam  — is  an  attractive  little 
city  of  the  valley  toward  the  south- 
east at  the  end  of  the  pleasant  ride 
on  board  a dummy  train  of  the  Val- 
ley road,  the  cars  starting  from  the 
Plaza  Mayor  in  electric  cars  to 
the  outskirts  of  the  city,  where  the 
dummy  engines  are  attached.  In  the 
old  days  when  Tlalpam  rejoiced  in 
the  name  of  San  Agustin  de  las 
Cuevas,  it  was  the  place  of  a great  gambling 
fiesta,  where  every  year  fashionable  folks  came 
to  try  their  luck  around  the  wheels  of  fortune 
and  become  the  prey  of  the  less  aristocratic 
gambler;  the  fiestas  became  so  disreputable  that 
they  were  for  a time  suppressed,  but  finally  re- 
vived, and  the  old-time  gaiety  prevails.  Tlalpam 
was  once  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico  be- 
fore the  seat  of  government  was  removed  to 
Toluca  and  this  city  included  in  the  Federal 
District.  The  streets  are  straight  and  run  at 
right  angles,  thanks  to  the  erratic  but  ener- 
getic Viceroy  Revillagigedo,  who,  in  1794,  instituted  many  improvements, 
including  a water  supply.  The  streets  are  shaded  by  great  trees  and  over  the 
walls  come  the  creeping  vines  to  tell  of  the  pretty  gardens 
beyond  them.  It  is  a quaint  old  town  where  some  hours  may 
be  spent  in  seeking  out  its  beauties,  and  you  may  find  some 
ruined  places  like  that  of  the  Oratorio,  up  the  street  from  the 
station  two  or  three  squares,  where  a peon’s  hut  is  built  in 

the  walls  of  a one-time  temple; 
the  thatched  adobe  is  in  strange 
contrast  with  the  graven  walls  and 
graceful  arches  of  this  relic  of  de- 
parted grandeur.  A delightful 
day’s  outing  may  be  made  to  the 
towns  in  the  south  of  the  valley 
— take  the  cars  for  Tacubaya, 
where  the  first  stop  may  be  made, 
then  take  the  cross  country  line, 
stop  over  one  car  at  Mixcoac  to  visit  the  Tivoli  de 
la  Castaneda;  the  next  stop  should  be  at  San 
Angel  for  an  hour;  two  hours  may  be  spent  at 
Coyacan,  two  at  Churubusco,  and  two  at  Tlalpam, 
returning  by  the  Valley  railroad  in  the  afternoon, 
the  cars  run  direct  to  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Tacttba — is  a pretty  suburb  that  was  a city 
in  itself  in  the  old  Aztec  days  when 
Totoquiyauhtzin  I,  Chimalpopoca,  Toto- 
quinyautzin  II  and  Tetleixampietzaltzin 
were  kings  and  held  their  capitals  at  Tlaco- 
pan,  as  the  ancient  city  was  called.  These 


129 


kings  reigned  in  succession  from  1430  to  1525;  the  latter  named  tzin  was  exe- 
cuted with  Cuautimotzin  by  Cortez  in  1525  for  an  alleged  conspiracy  against 
the  Spaniards. 

Tacuba  has  many  gardens  and  pleasant  places;  it  has  a fine  old  church  and 
is  the  place  of  the  residence  of  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico.  Street  cars  marked 
Tacuba  (not  Tacubaya)  leave  the  Plaza  Mayor  every  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes, passing  by  the  Tree  of  Noche  Triste,  making  a very  pleasant  street-car 
ride  to  consume  not  more  than  two  or  three  hours.  Popotla,  also  on  this  line, 
is  the  intervening  suburb  between  the  city  and  Tacuba  where  flourishes  that 
tree  of  the  dismal  night,  under  whose  shadow  Cortez  sat  down  and  wept  over 
his  misfortunes  and  defeat.  The  tree  is  an  ahuehuetl,  of  that  kind  found  in  the 
park  of  Chapultepec,  a cypress-like  tree  found  in  many  parts  of  Mexico. 
The  famous  tree  is  still  in  vigorous  life,  notwithstanding  the  onslaughts  of 
relic-hunters,  from  which  it  is  protected  now  by  a high  iron  railing,  that  is 
also  a defense  against 
the  fury  of  the  fanatic 
who  some  years  ago 
set  fire  to  the  trunk. 

Popotla  in  the  native 
tongue  means  “the 
place  of  the  brooms.” 

Atzcapotzalco  had 
such  a multitude  of  in- 
habitants that  it  re- 
ceived this  unpro- 
nounceable  name, 
which  means  the  “ant- 
hill.” The  kingdom  of 
Atzcapotzalco  antedates 
the  Conquest  by  many 
years;  in  fact  it  ceased 
to  be  an  independent 
kingdom  nearly  a hun- 
dred years  before  the 
Spaniards  came;  when, 
in  1428,  the  kings  of 
Tenochtitlan  and  Tex- 
coco  made  war  on 
Maxtla,  the  tzin  of  Atz- 
capotzalco, slew  him  and  divided  the  kingdom,  placing  Netzahualcoyotl, 
the  rightful  heir,  on  the  throne  in  the  realm  of  Texcoco  and  giving 
Atzcapotzalco  to  Tenochtitlan,  a part  of  which  went  to  the  tzin  of  Tlacopan. 

The  ancient  capital  has  dwindled  to  a village  whose  inhabitants  are  pot- 
ters and  vendors  of  vessels,  and  on  the  site  of  the  old  temple  are  the  towers 
and  domes  of  a Christian  church;  one  of  the  towers  has  the  graven  image  of 
an  immense  ant  in  memory  of  the  great  population  of  the  bygone  city.  The 
church  was  erected  by  the  Dominicans  in  1702. 

There  are  many  legends  that  hang  about  the  name  of  this  old  town,  so 
that  a book  might  be  written  to  tell  them  all.  Nearby  is  the  village  of  Zan- 
copinca,  and  near  that  a ruined  aqueduct  and  little  lake  of  pure  water,  where, 
in  a crystal  palace  under  the  waters,  dwells  Malintzi  half  of  each  day,  the  other 
half  being  spent  in  the  spring  of  Chapultepec,  where  she  is  a good  fairy,  but 
here  a very  siren  that  lures  men  to  the  depths  of  the  lake,  where  they  disap- 
pear forever.  The  songs  of  this  siren  are  passing  sweet  as  they  are  heard  in 


PULQUE  SHOP. 


130 


the  early  morning  or  in  the  evening,  when  it  is  dangerous  to  come  near  to  the 
water,  as  he  who  stops  to  listen  is  lured  to  a permanent  disappearance  by  the 
music  and  the  spirit’s  entrancing  beauty;  he  who  lingers 
is  lost,  a feeling  of  exquisite  languor  dulls  his  delighted 
senses,  he  is  irresistibly  drawn  into  the  depths  by  the 
beckoning  hand  of  beauty  and  is  lost  to  the  world  forever. 
It  may  be  that  this  fate  deters  the  seekers  for  the  treas- 
ures of  Cuautemoctzin  that  the  Indians 
aver  were  thrown  into  this  lake.  Another 
legend  has  its  place  in  the  open  plain 
west  of  the  monastery  under  the  shade  of 
the  five  great  ahuehuetls,  where  in  olden 
times  was  a spring  that  constantly  welled 
up,  but  never  overflowed — to  drink  these 
waters  meant  disappearance  forever.  The 
holy  fathers  came  with  the  image 
of  the  Virgin,  in  procession,  and 
preached  against  the  spring,  and  the 
people  cast  stones  into  it,  until  it 
was  covered  up  and  hidden  from  the 
sight  of  men,  so  that  no  one  could 
drink  of  its  waters,  and  a chapel 
with  a shrine  to  the  Virgin  was  built 
over  it,  that  has  long  since  fallen 
down  and  crumbled  away;  but  he 
who  will  come  to  the  ahuehuetls, 
and  will  hold  his  ear  close  to  the 
ground,  may  hear  the  murmuring 
TOURISTS.  ^ waters  underneath  the  ground.  The 

legend  lives  in  the  proverb:  Bebio  del  agua  de  los  ahuehuetls as  applied 

to  a sudden  or  mysterious  disappearance:  “He  drank  of  the  water  of  the 

ahuehuetls.” 

El  Desierto  is  not,  or  was  not  when  it  was  so  named,  a desert;  on  the 
contrary,  a group  of  gardens  of  fruits  and  flowers  in  and  about  an  ancient 
monastery  where  lived  a company  of  Carmelite  Brothers,  of  which  Thomas 
Gage,  a Dominican  monk,  says:  ‘Tt  is  the  pleasantest  place  of  all  about 

Mexico,  called  ‘La  Soledad,’  and  by  others  El  Desierto,  the  solitary  or  desert 
place  and  wilderness.  Were  all  wildernesses  like  it,  to  live  in  a wilderness 
would  be  better  than  to  live  in  a city.  This  hath  been  a device  of  poor  Fry- 
ers, named  discalced  or  barefooted  Carmelites,  who,  to  make  show  of  their 
hypocriticall  and  apparent  godlinesse,  and  that  whilest  they  would  be  thought 
to  live  like  Eremites,  retired  from  the  world,  they  may  draw  the  world  to 
them;  they  have  built  there  a stately  cloister,  which  being  upon  a hill  and 
among  rocks,  makes  it  to  be  more  admired.  About  the  cloister  they  have 
fashioned  out  many  holes  and  caves  in,  under  and  among  the  rocks,  like  Ere- 
mites lodgings,  with  a room  to  lie  in,  and  an  oratory  to  pray  in,  with  pictures 
and  images,  and  rare  devices  for  mortification  as  disciplines  of  wyar,  rods  of 
iron,  hair-cloths  girdles  with  sharp  wyar  points  to  girdle  about  their  bare 
flesh,  and  many  such  like  toyes,  which  hang  about  their  oratories,  to  make 
people  admire  their  mortified  and  holy  lives.  All  these  Eremeticall  holes  and 
caves  (which  are  ten  in  number)  are  within  the  bounds  and  compasse  of  the 
cloister  and  among  orchards  and  gardens  of  fruits  and  flowers,  which  may 
take  up  two  miles  in  compasse;  and  here  among  the  rocks  are  many  springs 
of  water,  which  with  the  shade  of  the  plantins  and  other  trees  are  most  cool 


131 


and  pleasant  to  the  Eremites;  they  have  also  the  sweet  smell  of  the  roze  and 
jazmin,  which  is  a little  flower,  but  the  sweetest  of  all  others;  there  is  not  any 
other  flower  to  be  found  that  is  rare  and  exquisite  in  that  country  which  is 
not  in  that  wildernesse  to  delight  the  senses  of  these  mortified  Eremites.” 

But — Mr.  Gage’s  description  applies  to  other  days;  it  is  indeed  a solitary 
place  and  a wilderness  now,  with  its  ruins  and  caves,  but  withal  interesting, 
and  well  worthy  of  a visit  notwithstanding  the  hard  journey  which  must  be 
made  on  horseback  from  the  city  or  by  cars  to  Santa  Fe  and  thence  by  burros 
or  horses. 


EL  DESIERTO. 

La  Piedad,  beyond  the  Garita  de  Belen,  is  the  place  of  the  church  and 
monastery  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Piedad,  founded  by  the  Dominicans  in 
1562,  and  the  church  was  built  in  the  fulfillment  of  a vow  to  the  Virgin  by  a 
monk  and  his  companions  on  board  a well-nigh  shipwrecked  vessel  that  if 
she  would  bring  them  safely  to  land  they  would  build  a temple  in  her  honor, 

A monk  of  the  brotherhood  of  Santo  Domingo  in  Rome  had  received  an 
order  for  a picture  of  the  Virgin  and  the  dead  Christ  to  be  painted  by  the  best 
Roman  artist,  and  when  he  came  to  depart  for  Mexico  the  artist  had  only 
made  a drawing  of  the  subject,  but  it  was  taken  on  board  in  its  unfinished 
state  and  the  voyage  entered  upon.  A great  storm  came  up  and  they  prayed 
to  the  Virgin  to  save  them,  and  their  prayers  were  answered — the  greater 
miracle  was  in  the  picture — when  it  was  opened  in  Mexico,  behold,  it  was 
finished  in  all  its  beautiful  colorings.  The  wonderful  picture  hangs  to-day 
where  it  did  on  the  day  of  the  dedication,  February  2,  1652,  over  the  main 


132 


altar  of  the  church  of  La  Piedad.  Among  the  other  pictures  is  a very  curious 
one  representing  the  storm-tossed  sea  that  was  stilled  by  the  Virgin.  There 
are  some  paintings  by  Cabrera  and  Velasquez  and  other  native  artists. 

Take  cars  on  the  Plaza  Mayor  marked  La  Piedad. 

Tlaluepatitla  is  a primitive  town  near  to  a modern  city,  a town  noted 
more  for  its  bull-fights  than  its  other  attractions,  but  the  trip  thither  is 
one  of  interest  since  the  route  of  the  street  car  lines  that  start  from  the 
Plaza  Mayor  in  the  city  pass  through  the  outlying  villages  that  are  all  in- 
teresting. The  old  church  of  Tlalnepantla  bears  date  of  1583  and  1587  over  the 
side  doors,  probably  the  dates  of  the  foundation  and  dedication — the  other 
dates,  1609  and  1704,  in  the  walls,  do  not  give  further  information;  the 
church  remains  in  its  primitive  state,  not  having  been  tarnished  by  the  reno- 
vating hand  of  modern  restorer. 

Tajo  de  Nocliistoiigo,  the  great  drainage  canal,  the  most  ambitious 
engineering  feat  of  its  time,  was  planned  by  Sehor  Don  Enrico  Martinez  to 
drain  the  waters  of  Zumpango,  the  highest  of  the  lakes  of  the  Valley,  and 
prevent  their  overflow  into  Texcoco,  Chaleo  and  Xochimilco  and  the  conse- 
quent inundation  of  the  City  of  Mexico;  the  original  idea  was  to  sink  the 
drain  sufflciently  to  carry  off  the  overflow  of  all  the  lakes,  but  this  was 
abandoned  on  account  of  its  great  expense. 

Operations  commenced  November  28th,  1607,  with  fifteen  thousand  Indians 
engaged  in  sinking  shafts  at  intervals  and  working  tunnels  in  both  directions, 
so  that  when  the  conduit  was  finished  it  was  one  long  tunnel  instead  of  a 
canal,  as  it  now  is,  and  before  a year  had  passed  this  tunnel  was  more  than 
four  miles  long,  with  a width  of  eleven  feet  by  thirteen  feet  in  height.  The 
walls  of  the  tunnel  were  of  adobe,  faced  with  stone,  and  all  on  insecure  foun- 
dations; it  caved  in  in  several  places,  and  in  order  to  repair  the  work  Mar- 
tinez ordered  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  closed,  or,  as  has  been  stated,  the 
engineer  took  this  method  of  proving  to  his  enemies  the  value  of  his  work, 
as  the  success  of  it  had  been  questioned  by  many. 

The  test  came  in  June,  1629.  The  rainy  season  had  set  in  with  great  vio- 
lence and  the  waters  from  the  lakes  overflowed  till  the  entire  city  except  the 
Plaza  Mayor  was  three  feet  under  water.  The  flood  came  in  a night,  but  did 
not  subside  until  five  years  later,  in  1634.  The  streets  became  canals  and 
traffic  was  carried  on  in  boats.  Many  lives  were  lost,  foundations  were 
destroyed  and  buildings  toppled,  until  finally  a royal  order  was  issued  by  Spain 
to  remove  the  city  to  the  slopes  between  Tacuba  and  Tacubaya,  but  unfor- 
tunately the  order  was  not  carried  out.  An  exceptionally  dry  season  followed 
the  flood,  earthquakes  cracked  the  earth  and  let  the  water  into  the  depths, 
and  the  city  was  permitted  to  remain  on  its  original  site. 

Martinez  had  been  imprisoned  as  the  cause  of  the  great  inundation,  but 
was  released  with  orders  to  make  the  city  secure  against  a recurrence  of  the 
disaster.  He  opened  the  tunnel  and  repaired  the  dyke  of  Lake  San  Cristo- 
bal— there  were  two  dykes  protecting  against  these  waters,  one  nearly  three 
miles  long  and  the  other  about  two,  about  ten  feet  high  and  thirty  feet  thick. 

The  walls  of  the  tunnel  continued  to  fall  in  and  the  city  was  threatened 
with  another  deluge  at  the  return  of  the  rainy  season.  It  was  finally  decided 
to  open  the  conduit  and  make  a canal  of  it;  the  work  progressed  slowly  and 
it  was  more  than  a hundred  years  before  it  was  completed  by  a syndicate  of 
merchants  termed  a Consulada,  in  1767  to  1789.  The  canal  is  from  three  to 
seven  hundred  feet  wide  at  the  top,  sloping  to  a few  feet  at  the  bottom  to 
prevent  caving  in.  The  perpendicular  depth  is  from  150  to  200  feet;  the 
length  from  the  sluice  from  the  lake  to  the  fall,  El  Salto  del  Rio  Tula,  is  67,537 
feet. 


133 


The  Tajo  commences  near  the  village  of  Huehuetoca,  twenty-nine  miles 
north  of  the  city  on  the  Mexican  Central,  and  the  tracks  of  that  railway  run 
along  the  eastern  slope  enjoying  the  distinction  of  the  greatest  “cut”  of  the 
world,  certainly  the  oldest  one,  as  this  great  work  commenced  as  a waterway 
in  1607,  used  nearly  three  hundred  years  later  as  a railway  entrance  to  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  and  its  former  uses  abandoned  since  the  national  government 
built  the  tunnel  through  the  eastern  mountains  and  drained  the  overflow  in 
that  direction.  In  the  corner  of  the  garden  in  front  of  the  Cathedral  in  the 
Plaza  Mayor  a monument  is  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  great  engineer  of 
the  Tajo,  Don  Enrico  Martinez.  The  shaft  shows  the  level  of  the  lakes  and 
statistics  of  the  inundation.  Unless  a closer  inspection  of  the  Tajo  is  desired 
a fine  view  may  be  had  from  the  west  windows  of  passing  trains,  the  right- 
hand  side  going  to  the  city  or  the  left  going  north.  A day  excursion  to  Tula  or 
Pachuca  via  the  Central,  leaving  the  city  in  the  morning  and  returning  in  the 
evening,  will  afford  ample  opportunity  to  see  the  great  Tajo  de  Nochistongo. 

Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  of  the  prehistoric  times  are  near  the 
village  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  about  twenty-seven  miles  east  of  the  city  on 
Mexican  (Vera  Cruz)  Railway.  Nothing  is  known  of  the  origin  of  these  pyra- 


TAJO  DE  NOCHISTONGO. 

mids,  thanks  perhaps  to  the  destruction  by  the  Spaniards  of  the  pic- 
ture records  of  the  Aztecs  and  Toltecs,  and  as  these  people  knew  nothing, 
or  would  tell  nothing,  their  history  must  forever  go  unwritten;  besides,  nothing 
in  the  excavations  or  relics  found  lends  any  light  on  the  subject, 

From  the  trains  the  pyramids  seem  insignificant  enough,  and  only  by 
iiear  approach  are  the^  ambitious  heights  to  be  appreei^ted,  The  Pyramid  of 
the  Sun  is  216  feet  8 inches  high,  having  a base  of  761  by  721  feet  7 inches, 
while  the  top  is  59  by  105  feet.  The  Moon  is  J5q  teet  ii  inches  high,  base  51 1 
by  426  feet  5 inches  and  19  fee|  8 inches  gqnarej ' All  glong  the  little  Rio  de 


134 


Teotihuacan  and  over  the  plain  are  traces  of  a city,  and  remains  of  v^alls  and 
fortifications,  one  of  which  is  known  as  the  Ciudadela^  the  citadel,  an  area 
inclosed  by  a wall  over  two  .hundred  feet  thick  and  thirty-two  feet  high.  In 
the  center  of  the  square  is  a small  pyramid,  and  on  the  wall  of  earth  fourteen 
smaller  pyramids. 

About  over  the  plain  are  numerous  pyramids,  or  mounds,  as  they  seem 
to  be  now.  Some  openings  have  been  made  revealing  in  one  case  two  large 
halls  and  several  smaller  rooms,  in  another  some  frescoed  walls.  These  mounds 
may  have  been  dwellings  or  shrines  attached  to  the  greater  temples  of  the 
pyramids.  The  cornices  and  walls  were  beautifully  ornamented  in  colors, 
ranging  from  ten  to  twenty  shades  or  tints. 

The  only  entrance  discovered  in  the  greater  pyramids  is  in  that  of  the 
Moon,  found  some  years  ago,  leading  into  a chamber  whose  walls  are  of  cut 
stone  and  laid  directly  on  the  lines  of  the  compass.  A curious  causeway, 
called  ^^Calle  de  los  Muertos^^  (Street  of- the  Dead)  begins  near  the  Citadel, 
passes  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun  and  ends  near  the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon.  On 
either  side  is  a terrace  of  cement  and  lava  faced  with  a mortar  of  high  polish 

and  brightly  colored. 
Along  this  Street  of  the 
Dead  are  many  of  the 
shrines  or  dwellings, 
some  of  which  have 
been  opened,  revealing- 
chests  of  cut  stone  con- 
taining skulls,  bones 
and  ornaments  of  ob- 
sidian, earthen  vases 
and  masks.  Many  of 
these  ornaments  of  ob- 
sidian and  miniature 
masks  are  found  in  the 
fields  round  about,  giv- 
ing rise  to  many  theo- 
ries as  to  their  origin 
and  uses,  on  which  no 
two  writers  agree  except  that  they  prove  the  builders  of  the  pyramids 
to  be  a race  antedating  the  Toltecs  or  Aztecs.  As  to  their  uses,  one 
theory  is  that  these  masks  were  portraits  of  the  dead  attached  to  bodies 
of  perishable  material,  and,  of  course,  long  since  disappeared,  leaving  only  the 
earthen  faces  covered  with  the  dust  of  centuries  and  now  turned  to  light  by 
the  plowshare.  Each  writer  compares  the  faces  to  some  features  of  the  now 
living  races,  but  the  most  interesting  fact  is  that  they  are  entirely  dissimilar 
to  the  inhabitant  races  at  the  advent  of  the  Spaniards. 

Second  only  to  the  Ruins  of  Mitla,  these  pyramids  are  the  most  interesting 
remains  in  this  part  of  Mexico.  By  taking  the  morning  train  of  the  Mexican 
(Vera  Cruz)  Railway  for  Teotihuacan  a day  may  be  spent  at  the  pyramids, 
returning  in  the  evening. 

Texcoco,  before  and  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  was  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Tezcucans,  a race  probably  more  advanced  in  civilization  than 
the  Aztecs,  ruled  at  one  time  by  the  great  Netzahualcoyotl,  who  may  be  called 
the  King  Solomon  or  the  David  of  his  race,  or  both,  since  he  was  a wise  man 
and  just,  and  wrote  many  psalms  and  songs  the  translations  of  which  greatly 
resemble  the  psalms  and  songs  of  the  Biblical  kings.  And  the  palace  of 
Netzahualcoyotl  was  of  ancient  magnificence;  in  the  courtyard,  at  opposite 


135 


ends,  were  two  halls  of  justice,  one,  called  the  “Tribunal  of  God,”  had  a 
throne  of  pure  gold  inlaid  with  turquoise  and  other  precious  stones.  Before 
the  throne,  on  a heap  of  trophies,  weapons,  shields,  bows,  arrows  and  quivers, 
was  a human  skull  crowned  with  an  immense  emerald  in  pyramidal  form,  sur- 
mounted by  an  aigrette  of  brilliant  plumes  and  precious  stones. 

The  walls  were  hung  with  a tapestry  of  the  hair  of  wild  animals  of  varied 
color  and  rich  design,  embroidered  in  birds  and  flowers,  the  hangings  caught 
up  in  rings  of  gold.  Above  the  throne  was  a canopy  of  variegated  plumage 
from  the  center  of  which  shot  forth  resplendent  rays  of  gold  and  jewels.  The 
other  tribunal,  called  “the  Kings,”  also  had  a gorgeous  canopy  of  feathers 
emblazoned  with  the  royal  arms.  The  superior  intelligence  of  these  people  and 
their  education  gave  ancient  Texcoco  the  title  of  the  Athens  of  America,  as 
Tenochtitlan  was  called  its  Rome. 

This  was  ancient  Texcoco.  Her  glory  has  passed  away  and  only  ruined 
walls  are  left  to  tell  of  it,  some  pyramids  to  the  north  and  one  on  the  south- 
ern border  of  the  town,  and  three  miles 
west,  near  the  village  of  Huixotla,  an 
immense  wall.  When  the  Spaniards 
came  the  Tezcucans  were  in  the  throes 
of  civil  war  among  the  descendants  of 
Netzahualcotl,  and,  one  faction  becom- 
ing friends  of  Cortez,  it  was  easy  to 
make  them  allies  as  he  had  the  Tlaxcal- 
ans,  and  as  the  Cholulans  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  massacre  and  there  could  be 
no  attack  in  his  rear,  the  Conqueror 
made  Texcoco  the  base  of  operations 
against  the  Aztecs  and  their  city  of  Ten- 
ochtitlan, and  after  he  was  driven  out  of 
that  city  by  Guatimoctzin  he  returned  to 
Texcoco  to  launch  his  bergantines  that 
had  been  built  at  Tlaxcala,  and  from  the 
canal  over  which  may  still  be  seen  the 
Bridge  of  the  Bergantines  sailed  away 
to  lay  siege  to  Tenochtitlan  and  effect 
his  second  entry  to  the  Aztec  capital. 

At  Texcoco  Cortez  lived,  at  one  of  the 
times  when  he  was  in  disfavor  with  the 
Spanish  King,  and  here  in  one  of  the 
churches  his  bones  were  entombed  and 
remained  some  years.  The  first  Fran- 
ciscan Mission  in  Mexico  was  established  in  Texcoco  by  Fray  Pedro  de 
Gante;  the  fine  old  church  remains  to-day. 

The  present  town  is  a pretty  one,  with  its  streets  shaded  by  orange  trees 
and  is  full  of  attractions  for  a day’s  outing,  among  which  are  excursions  to 
the  Molino  de  Flores,  Tetzcotzinco,  Cuautlenchan,  the  Hacienda  of  Chapingo, 
the  estate  of  the  late  ex-president  General  Gonzales,  and  the  Ruins  of  Huix- 
otla. In  the  Plaza  is  a monument  with  a bust  of  Netzahualcoyotl,  and  on  the 
corner  of  two  of  the  main  streets  a fine  fountain,  surmounted  by  a statue 
of  Hercules,  the  gift  of  Sefior  Don  Ruperto  Jaspeado,  an  antiquarian  of  local 
renown. 

Molino  de  Flores,  the  mill  of  the  flowers,  is  a flour  mill  as  well,  but 
not  the  commonplace,  barn-like^ structure  we  may  have  in  our  mind’s  eye  fro_m 
the  country  mills  at  home.  Massive  gates  swing  heavily  on  thick  stone  walls 


A CORNER  IN  TEXCOCO. 


136 


and  admit  to  what  seems  the  court  and  gardens  of  a mediaeval  castle;  tortuous 
stairways  of  stone  lead  to  the  castle  that  is  the  summer  home  of  the  very 
ancient  family  of  Cervantes,  who  have  owned  this  bit  of  another  world  for 
some  centuries.  The  garden  might  have  been  a part  of  Eden  from  its  leafy 
trees,  beautiful  flowers  and  winding  walks  among  foaming  cascades  and 
splashing  fountains,  caves  and  grottoes  hollowed  by  Nature’s  hand,  shad- 
owed by  overhanging  boughs  where  flowering  vines  have  climbed,  and  around 
one  grotto,  in  which  there  is  a pool  of  clear  water,  among  the  flowers  are 
some  prickly  cactus  that  guard  all  approaches,  for  this  is  the  Cervantes’  bath — 
here  in  the  garden  under  the  trees,  shut  in  by  flowery  screens  and  waving  ferns. 

Winding  pathways  paved  with  pebbles  in  variegated  colors  lead  up  and 
down  the  hillside  and  across  the  ravine  where  the  dascades  are,  then  over  a 
rustic  bridge  to  the  family  chapel.  Some  Moorish\  work  around  a cavern 
makes  the  shrine,  three  sides  are  Nature’s  own  handiwork,  human  hands  have 
only  added  a little  belfry  and  the  bells.  In  the  chapel  lie  the  departed  Cervan- 
tes, in  tombs  of  solid  stone,  and  in  the  unhewn  walls  are  tablets  in  memoriam. 
Before  the  quaint  little  altar  dimly  burns  a lamp  that  is  never  extinguished, 
throwing  an  uncertain  light  on  the  faded  painting  of  the  Crucifixion  on  the 
rock  behind  it.  In  an  adjoining  cavern  dwells  the  hermit  padre — this  solemn 
little  shrine  is  in  strange  contrast  with  the  bit  of  fairyland  in  the  gardens 
beyond.  Molino  de  Flores  is  three  miles  from  Texcoco.  Admission  to  the 
gardens  is  by  permit  only,  obtained  from  the  “administrador”  in  the  city. 

Tetzcotziiico,  the  “laughing  hill,”  is  three  miles  east  of  Texcoco  and  a 
mile  south  of  the  Molino  de  Flores.  Here  was  a summer  palace  of  Netza- 
hualcoyotl,  the  King  of  the  Tezcucans.  In  the  solid  stone  of  the  hill  are 
terraced  walks  and  stairways  reaching  in  a winding  way  from  the  plane  to  the 
summit,  nearly  a hundred  feet  above  it.  Along  the  way,  in  places  shaded 
by  the  cliffs,  are  seats  cut  in  the  rock.  Near  the  top  is  the  King’s  bath,  also 
hewn  in  the  stone  of  the  hill;  it  is  about  five  feet  by  three,  or  it  may  have 
been  a distributing  reservoir,  since  the  water  came  to  it  from  the  aqueduct 
above  and  passed  on  to  the  hanging  gardens.  Here  is  evidence  of  the  engi- 
neering skill  of  the  ancient  races  of  Mexico;  the  water  supply  was  brought  to 
the  Laughing  Hill  from  the  mountains  nearly  fifteen  miles  away,  an  aqueduct 
was  on  a graded  side  of  the  hill  for  nearly  a mile,  coming  from  another 
hill  on  an  embankment  seventy  feet  high  and  again  from  another  hill  nearly 
two  miles  distant,  and  thence  the  embankment  continues  twelve  miles  to  the 
mountains.  On  the  top  of  the  grading  was  an  aqueduct  of  cement  and  stone 
in  the  form  of  a tube  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  though  the  conduit  is  only 
ten  inches.  Remains  of  this  wonderful  work  are  still  to  be  found. 

The  Bosque  of  Contador,  near  Tetzcotzinco,  is  a fine  grove  of  ahuehuetls 
and  was  a part  of  the  summer  capital. 

Cuautleucliaii,  near  the  Molino  de  Flores,  was  probably  the  place  of 
residence  of  a people  older  than  the  Texcucans,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  relics 
found  round  about. 

This  interesting  section  may  be  done  in  a day,  but  two  would  make  the 
trip  easier.  Take  the  morning  train  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  starting 
from  San  Lazaro  Station  in  the  city.  Stop  at  Texcoco.  Thence  the  visits  to 
Molino  de  Flores,  Tetzcotzinco,  Cuautlenchan  and  Huixotla  must  be  made  on 
horseback  or  in  carriages,  which  may  be  obtained  in  Texcoco. 

La  Viga  Canal  is  a navigable  water-way  for  traffic  between  the  city  and 
the  outlying  towns  and  villages  on  the  shores  of  Lakes  Chaleo  and  Xochi- 
milco,  flowing  from  those  lakes  to  Lake  Texcoco,  and  does  not,  as  is  popularly 
supposed,  take  in  any  drainage  or  sewerage  from  the  city,  the  water  coming 
from  the  south  to  the  eastern  district  of  the  city  passes  northeasterly  to  Lakq 


137 


Texcoco ; it  is  a murky-looking  water,  but  is  not  nearly  so  murky  as  it  looks ; 
taken  up  in  the  hand  or  vessel,  it  is  as  clear  as  it  comes  from  the  lake.  The 
boats  of  La  Viga  are  different  from  the  boats  of  any  other  canal,  and  there 
are  different  styles  of  boats  on  La  Viga,  ranging  from  the  dug-out  canoe  of 
the  Chinampas  to  the  flat-bottom  freight  boat  propelled  by  poles  in  the  hands 
of  strong  arms,  a sort  of  armstrong  motor,  and  side-wheel  steamers  of  an- 
tiquated design.  All  classes  carry  passengers,  with  their  donkeys  and  dogs, 
these  latter  being  indispensable  accompanists  to  the  passenger,  since  each  is 
an  owner  of  part  of  the  cargo  of  wood,  charcoal  or  garden  truck,  and  must 
have  the  burro  to  make  a delivery  at  the  port  of  destination,  and  the  dog — 
well,  the  dog  just  goes  along  from  force  of  habit,  or  an  innate  aversion  to 
being  left  behind,  and  alone,  because  the  family  comes  to  town  with  its  head 
and  the  house  is  closed  till  they  return.  One  of  these  long,  low,  rakish  craft 
from  the  other  shores  of  Chaleo  and  Xochimilco  is  a sight  to  see,  at  once  a 
freighter  and  a floating  menagerie,  as  there  are  other  live  stock  besides  the 
dogs  and  donkeys,  in  the  shape  of  goats,  sheep,  ducks,  and  chickens.  The 


LA  VIGA  CANAL. 

boats  bring  the  provender  for  man  and  beast  in  a city  of  neary  half  a million 
of  people,  and  largely  supply  the  city  with  fuel,  the  boats  bringing  it  to  the 
landing  places  and  the  burros  making  the  delivery  throughout  the  city. 

But  there  are  boats  for  passengers,  and  for  tourists  to  Santa  Anita,  Mexi- 
calcingo,  San  Juanico,  Ixtacalco,  and  las  chinampas^  the  floating  gardens. 
These  latter  are  a Mexican  edition  of  the  gondola,  and  with  a Mexican  gondo- 
lier in  the  bow,  using  a pole  instead  of  a paddle.  These  gondolas  are  as 
picturesque  in  a way  as  the  Venetian  sort,  not  as  graceful,  perhaps,  but  sui 
generis,  in  a class  of  their  own,  a wide,  flat  bottom  batteau,  like  an  old-fash- 
ioned country  ferryboat;  , there  are  low  seats  on  each  side  running  length- 
wise, from  end  to  end,  under  a canopy  with  gaudy-colored  curtains. 

The  usual  La  Viga  voyage  is  to  Santa  Anita;  the  trip  may  be  on  the 
street  cars  that  run  along  the  banks  of  the  canal;  this  is  the  most  expedi- 
tious way,  but  there  is  none  of  the  novelty  of  the  boat  ride,  and  one  must 
not  be  in  a hurry  in  Mexico.  It  is  best  to  take  the  cars  on  the  Plaza  Mayor 
marked  La  Viga,  leaving  them  when  they  reach  the  canal  at  Embarcadero  and 
go  thence  by  boat;  the  tariff  of  the  boatmen  varies,  according  to  the  number 
of  boats  in  port;  the  demand  therefor,  and  whether  it  is  a week-day,  Sunday 


138 


or  a feast  day,  from  fifty  cents  to  a dollar,  for  a boat  carrying  ten  or  a dozen 
people,  to  Santa  Anita  and  return,  including  the  stop  there  for  a ride  through 
the  chinampas,  or  lioating  gardens,  for  which  another  and  smaller  boat  must 
be  taken  and  another  fare  of  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  be  paid  for  each  canoe 
carrying  six  or  eight  people. 

The  start  on  the  voyage  does  not  impress  favorably,  but  as  it  proceeds  it 
grows  interesting,  especially  after  passing  the  Garita,  where  the  municipal 
duties  were  collected  from  incoming  freighters;  thence  the  wide,  open  canal 
is  alive  with  queer  little  craft,  the  long,  narrow  canoes  darting  here  and  there 
among  the  larger  ones,  the  little  pleasure  boats  with  their  passengers  squat- 


A GONDOLA  ON  LA  VIGA. 

ted  under  the  grass-woven  canopies,  and  the  larger  boats  coming  fiom  or 
going  to  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo  with  their  cargoes  of  men,  women,  children, 
burros,  dogs,  wood,  charcoal  and  garden  truck;  then  there  are  little  bum- 
boat  canoes  with  dusky  “Little  Buttercups”  to  come  alongside  your  boat,  with 
the  cleanest-looking  baskets  covered  with  the  whitest  of  drawn-work  cloths, 
under  which  are  the  native  sandwiches,  tortillas,  tamales,  con  carne  or  con 
dulce^  that,  no  matter  how  they  may  have  seemed  elsewhere,  here  look  tempt- 
ingly toothsome.  Any  day  will  do  for  the  voyage  to  Santa  Anita  and  much 
will  be  seen  that  you  never  saw  before,  but  on  a Sunday  or  a feast  day  there 
will  be  more  life  on  the  canal  and  in  the  villages. 

Santa  Anita  is  a straggling  village  of  thatched  houses,  a relic  of  primitive 
times  almost  under  the  shadow  of  the  towers  of  the  metropolitan  city,  a pleasure 
resort  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes,  where  every  house  is  an  open  one, 
fonda,  restaurant  or  pulque  shop,  with  thatched  bowers  over  the  seats  and 


139 


tables  of  the  revellers.  When  your  boat  is  anchored  under  a great  tree  at  Santa 
Anita,  go  ashore  and  pass  up  the  street  from  the  canal  to  the  little  old  church 
and  beyond  to  a forlorn  little  plaza,  where  there  are  some  swings 
and  some  more  fondas  and  pulque  shops,  and  you  will  find  the  canoes  to  take 
you  through  the  sluices  of  the  floating  gardens.  These  gardens  have  no  walks 
and  must  be  floated  through,  which  would  entitle  them  to  their  name,  even 
if  they  were  not  really  floating  gardens,  as  they  were  in  the  olden  times  when 
the  chinampas  grew  the  fruits  and  flowers  for  Montezuma  and  the  Aztec  tzins; 
now  they  are  flower  and  vegetable  beds  to  supply  the  city  markets.  It 
is  worth  the  while  of  the  trip  if  it  were  only  to  see  the  acres  and 
acres  of  poppies,  whence  the  natives  garland  themselves  and  their  houses 
on  feast  days,  and  of  which  you  may  bring  away  a boat  load  for  a real  On  the 


AT  HOME  ON  LA  VIGA. 

going  or  the  return  trip  a stop  should  be  made  at  the  hacienda  of 
Juan  Corona.  While  he  lived,  Don  Juan’s  house  was  yours;  his  was  a hos- 
pitable roof,  and  it  remains  to-day  in  happy  memory  with  open  doors.  Don 
Juan  was  a great  man  in  his  day,  as  valiant  as  he  was  good  and  charitable, 
not  a soldier,  nor  yet  padre  or  a missionary,  his  life  was  full  of  brave  deeds 
and  good  works.  Don  Juan  was  a bull-fighter  on  Sundays  and  feast  days,  and 
a philanthropist  all  the  week,  as  if  he  would  make  six  days  of  charity  balance 
his  account  of  questionable  sport  on  Sunday.  His  pleasure  was  the  care  of 
the  children  of  the  poor,  till  he  was  called  the  father  of  the  destitute,  when  he 
established  a school  for  his  wards  that  is  still  maintained  in  one  of  the  rooms 
of  his  house.  The  old  Don’s  hobby  was  less  of  tauromachy  than  the  collection 
of  curios,  and  his  house  is  a monument  to  the  memory  of  that  hobby,  every 
room  is  a museum  in  itself.  Pass  through  the  open  door;  no  invitation  is 
needed,  and  there  is  none  to  stop  your  way.  Within  the  patio  of  trees,  flowers 
and  climbing  vines  is  a ston^  stairway  leading  to  an  upper  gallery;  the  curios 


140 


commence  on  the  stairway  and  continue  through  all  the  house.  Pass  around 
the  gallery  to  the  farther  side  of  patio  and  enter  through  the  kitchen,  the 
quaintest,  cleanest  kitchen  in  the  world;  then  through  the  dining-room,  bed 
chamber  and  parlor,  coming  out  again  onto  the  gallery  at  the  stairs,  where  you 
may  enter  the  school-room  and  see  a school  wholly  unlike  any  other.  As  a 
visitor  enters,  the  bright  little  beneficiaries  of  Corona’s  bounty  rise  in  respect- 
ful salutation  and  welcome.  The  school  has  not  the  ample  means  it  had  in 
the  life  of  good  old  Don  Juan,  and  any  offering  is  not  only  to  a worthy  charity, 
but  a tribute  to  the  memory  of  a good  man. 

It  will  take  longer  to  see  all  in  the  quaint  old  house  than  to  write  it  down, 
since  it  is  impossible  to  do  it  completely.  In  the  kitchen  is  the  old-fashioned 
cooking-place  built  of  brick,  around  it  and  on  all  the  walls  are  the  utensils 
of  earthenware,  as  in  the  dining-room  the  table  and  its  appurtenances  are  as 
quaintly  curious.  But  it  is  in  the  other  rooms  where  are  the  curios  and  relics,  of 
every  age  and  era  of  Mexico’s  history  back  to  prehistoric  times;  idols  from 
the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  at  San  Juan  Teotihuacan;  weapons,  plumes, 
shields  and  war  dresses  of  the  Aztecs,  a cigar  case,  pistol  and  sword  of  the 
patriot-priest  Hidalgo;  the  bed  in  which  General  Santa  Ana  died;  some  pieces 
from  the  table  service  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  one  of  the  muskets 
with  which  he  was  shot;  the  rifle  of  General  Miramon  used  at  Queretaro;  a 
fine  collection  oichicaras,  chocolate  cups  painted  by  the  Indians  of  Michoacan; 
very  curious  and  ancient  costumes  of  the  bull-ring,  among  which  is  one  used  by 
the  Spanish  matador,  Bernardo  Gavino,  when  he  was  killed  in  the  ring  at 
Texcoco;  ancient  Chinese  and  Japanese  armor;  paintings  of  religious  subjects 
and  scenes  from  the  bull  ring;  portraits  of  Don  Juan  and  his  wife  and  of 
Mexican  celebrities;  a collection  of  bird  eggs,  stuffed  animals,  two  immense 
bowls  or  platters  with  the  portraits  of  Maximilian  and  Carlotta;  old  tapestries 
and  silken  shawls;  rugs  of  the  skins  of  wild  beasts,  and  a thousand  and  one 
other  curious  things  collected  in  a long  lifetime,  of  which  no  complete  list  or 
description  may  be  made,  but  each  article  is  in  its  place  just  as  Don 
Juan  left  them  when  he  died.  No  fees  are  charged  nor  any  gratuities  asked 
or  suggested,  but  there  is  a contribution  box,  and  there  are  none  more  worthy, 
since  all  the  offerings  are  applied  to  the  support  of  the  school,  and  what  you 
have  seen  in  this  old  house  is  worth  a generous  gift. 

The  journey  on  the  canal  may  be  continued  to  Ixtacalco  and  make  a day  of 
it;  here  are  other  floating  gardens  and  a fine  old  church,  San  Matias,  founded 
by  the  Franciscans  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago,  in  front  of  which  is 
a pretty  little  plaza  with  a fountain  of  clear,  cool  water;  near  by  is  a shrine 
of  Santiago,  long  since  neglected  as  to  religious  uses,  and  now  used  as  a 
dwelling. 

Mexicalcingo,  a little  further  on,  was  an  important  town  before  the  Con- 
quest, now  only  an  Indian  village  with  an  ancient  and  ruined  monastery  and 
church  dedicated  to  San  Marco,  also  founded  by  the  Franciscans.  To  make 
the  journey  thus  far  it  will  take  a day,  and  a luncheon  should  be  brought 
along.  Only  the  more  venturesome  explorer  will  undertake  the  entire  voyage 
to  Xochimilco,  two  days,  but  it  is  intensely  interesting  and  without  actual 
hardship,  though  with  some  discomfort.  The  excursion  to  Ixtapalapa  and  the 
intermediate  villages  on  Fa  Viga  may  be  made  by  horse  cars,  or  we  may  go  by 
boat  and  return  by  cars,  but  the  round  trip  by  boat  is  to  be  preferred.  Cars 
start  from  the  Plaza  Mayor;  look  for  those  showing  the  names  of  the  places 
you  desire  to  visit;  they  will  take  you  there  and  back  again  to  the  Plaza. 

Los  Reiiiedios. — About  three  miles  west  of  the  city’s  boundary  is  the  Hill 

Totoltepec,  on  the  top  of  which  is  the  Santuary  of  Our  l-ady  of  Succor,  called 


141 

the  church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los  Remedios;  its  history  and  legend  make 
an  interesting  story. 

On  that  dismal  night  of  the  ist  of  July,  1521,  when  the  Spaniards  were 
driven  from  Tenochtitlan  by  Cuautemoc  and  his  infuriated  warriors,  the 
Spanish  soldiers  fled  in  all  directions,  but  were  gathered  together  in  the  Temple 
of  Otoncapulco  that  was  on  the  hill  of  Totoltepec.  Among  them  was  Juan 
Rodriguez  de  Villafuerte,  who  had  in  his  keeping  an  image  of  the  Virgin 
that  he  had  brought  from  Spain,  and  which  had  been  placed  in  a shrine  on  the 
great  temple  of  the  Aztecs  among  their  gods.  The  checkered  career  of  this 
image  in  Spain  was  not  less  adventurous  after  its  arrival  in  Mexico;  on  the 
night  of  the  terrible  defeat  it  was  carried  by  Villafuerte  in  his  flight  from  the 


CHURCH  OF  GUADALUPE,  NEAR  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 

city,  but  himself  being  severely  wounded,  could  carry  it  no  farther;  he  hid  the 
image  under  the  broad  spreading  maguey,  and  went  on  his  way. 

Nearly  twenty  years  after,  an  Indian  chief,  Cequauhtzin,  called  also  Juan  de 
Aguila  Tobar,  was  hunting  on  the  hill  of  Totoltepec,  when  the  Holy  Virgin 
appeared  to  him  in  a vision  and  bade  him  seek  for  her  image  that  was  hidden 
beneath  a maguey;  the  tzin  made  diligent  search  without  success,  and  the 
Virgin  again  appeared  with  the  same  command;  still  it  was  not  found,  and 
she  appeared  yet  the  third  time.  After  awhile  the  image  was  found-  and  taken 
by  Cequauhtzin  to  his  house.  In  the  morning  it  had  disappeared,  and  was 
found  again  under  the  maguey  where  it  had  been.  It  was  taken  the  second 
time  to  the  Indian’s  home,  and  he  placed  before  it  a little  gourd  filled  with 
dainty  things  to  eat,  but  the  image  disappeared  to  the  maguey.  Again  was 
it  brought  to  the  house  and  placed  in  a strong  box,  locked  and  bolted,  and, 
to  make  matters  doubly  sure,  the  tzin  slept  that  night  on  the  lid  of  the  box,  but 


142 

in  the  morning  the  box  was  empty  and  the  image  fled  once  more  to  the  maguey 
on  Totoltepec  hill. 

Then  came  Cequauhtzin  to  the  good  padres  of  San  Gabriel  in  Tacuba  and 
told  them  of  the  apparitions,  of  the  finding  of  the  image  and  its  subsequent 
disappearances,  which  to  the  holy  fathers  seemed  at  once  that  a miracle  had 
been  performed,  and  in  the  persistency  of  the  image  in  returning  to  the  bill 
they  discerned  a command  of  the  Virgin  to  build  a temple  in  her  honor  on  this 
Hill  of  Totoltepec  where  her  image  might  rest  in  peace  after  all  the  stormy 
years  of  its  existence.  The  shrine  was  commenced  at  once,  and,  shortly  com- 
pleted, was  dedicated  to  Our  Lady  of  Succor,  since  the  Spanish  soldiers  were 
saved  through  the  saving  of  her  image.  Over  the  walls  of  the  original  chapel  was 
built  the  existing  church  through  the  efforts  of  Don 
Garcia  Albornos,  a great  church  worker  of  Mexico, 
begun  in  May,  1574,  and  completed  in  August  of  the 
follovv^ing  year,  though  the  dome  and  arched  roof 
were  not  completed  until  over  a hundred  years  had 
passed,  when  the  church  was  finally  dedicated  on  the 
25th  of  May,  1629,  and  seventy  years  after  that  Dr. 
Francisco  Fernandez  Marmolejo  and  his  wife,  Dona 
Francisca  de  Sosa,  brought  an  artist  from  Puebla  to 
finish  the  camarin  they  had  caused  to  be  built  for 
the  home  of  the  image.  The  image  is  of  wood,  carved, 
but  now  at  its  great  age  browned  and  disfigured;  it 
is  about  eight  inches  long.  Held  in  the  arms  of  the 
image  is  a figure  of  the  Child  Jesus.  The  ornaments 
except  some  pearls,  and  all  her  rich  vestments,  have 
long  since  disappeared.  The  gourd  in  which  Ce- 
quauhtzin placed  the  delicacies  before  the  image  when 
it  was  in  his  house  is  preserved  in  the  shrine  in  a 
silken  case;  the  gourd  has  been  broken  and  is  mended 
with  clasps  of  iron  and  brass.  The  altar  is  not  what 
it  was  once,  with  its  ornaments  of  silver  and  gold, 
tinsel  and  baser  metals  have  taken  their  place.  The 
silver  railings  and  the  silver  maguey  with  all  the  rich 
decorations  disappeared  under  a rigid  enforcement  of 
the  Laws  of  the  Reform,  and  all  the  pictures  of  the 
life  of  the  Virgin  have  been  taken  away.  In  front  of 
the  altar  is  an  onyx  slab  with  the  inscription  in  Span- 
ish: “This  is  the  true  spot  where  was  found  the  most 
holy  Virgin,  beneath  a maguey,  by  the  Chief,  Don 
Juan  Aguila,  in  the  year  1540;  (being  the  spot)  where 

VIRGIN  OF  GUADALUPE.  slie  said  to  him,  in  the  time  of  her  appearance  to  him, 
that  he  should  search  for  her.”  Prior  to  1796,  when  this  tablet  was  placed  in 
the  floor,  the  spot  was  marked  by  a pillar  supporting  a maguey,  with  a carving 
of  the  image;  the  pillar  is  now  in  the  cloister.  Under  the  main  altar  rest  the 
bones  of  the  tzin,  Don  Juan  Aguila  Tobar,  and  near  by  is  the  chest  in  which  he 
confined  the  image  to  prevent  its  escape  to  the  maguey.  Among  the  pictures 
in  the  church  are  some  illustrating  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  and  two,  painted  in 
1699  by  Francisco  de  los  Angeles,  of  the  Twelve  Apostles. 

Guadalupe. — The  holiest  shrine  of  all  Mexico  and  its  legend  the  pret- 
tiest of  all  legends. 

As  we  read  the  little  of  Aztec  history  that  the  Spanish  fanatic  left  unburncd 
we  may  well  wonder  at  the  similarity  of  their  religion  to  that  of  the  Chris- 
tians, and  we  are  apt  to  conclude  that  the  ancient  Mexicans  were  not  the  pagans 
they  have  been  painted;  true,  they  practiced  human  sacrifice,  but  was  it  less 


143 


in  cruelty  than  in  the  sacrifice  of  human  life  by  the  Inquisition?  The  Aztecs 
waited  for  the  coming  of  a Christ  to  save  them;  Malintzi,  the  Savior  of  the 
Aztecs,  was  a man  of  fair  countenance,  long  flowing  hair  and  beard,  was  of 
gentle  mien  and  character,  was  and  is  to  come  to  save  the  Mexican;  Tonantzin 
was  the  Mother  of  Gods  in  their  religion,  and  the  people  worshiped  her  on  the 
Hill  of  Tepeyacac,  now  called  Guadalupe,  where  the  Holy  Virgin  appeared 
to  Juan  Diego  and  where  her  holiest  temple  stands.  This  is  the  legend: 

A pious  Indian,  Juan  Diego,  lived  in  the  village  of  Tolpetlac,  and  as  he  went 
to  mass  in  the  church  Santiago  Tlaltelolco,  passed  around  the  hillside  of 
Tepeyacac,  on  Saturday  morning,  December  gth,  1531,  he  heard  the  sweet 
music  of  singing  voices;  he  was  afraid,  and,  looking  up,  behold!  a lady  ap- 
peared to  him  and  bade  him  hear  what  she  might  say;  he  should  go  to  the 
Bishop  and  tell  him  that  it  was  her  will  that  a temple  in  her  honor  should 
be  built  on  that  hill;  he  listened  tremblingly,  on  his  knees,  and  when  the  lady 
had  vanished,  went  his  way  and  told  the 
Bishop  what  he  had  seen  and  heard.  The 
Bishop  was  Don  Juan  Zumarraga;  he 
listened  incredulously  to  the  Indian’s  story 
and  sent  him  away.  Sorrowfully  he  re- 
turned to  where  the  lady  appeared  to  him, 
found  her  waiting  and  told  the  Bishop’s 
answer;  she  bade  him  come  to  her  again. 

On  the  following  day,  Sunday,  Juan  Diego 
came  again  to  the  hillside;  the  lady  ap- 
peared for  the  third  time  and  sent  him  to 
the  Bishop  again  with  her  message  that  a 
temple  should  be  built  for  her.  The  Bish- 
op, still  unbelieving  and  distrusting  the 
improbable  means  of  conveying  such  a 
command  through  this  poor  Indian,  told 
him  he  must  bring  some  unmistakable 
token  that  what  he  said  was  true,  sent 
him  away  again,  and,  unknown  to  him, 
sent  two  servants  to  watch  him;  but  as  he 
approached  the  hill  he  became  invisible  in 
some  mysterious  way,  passed  around  the  hill,  and  alone  saw  the  lady  and  told 
her  the  Bishop  required  a token  of  the  truth  of  her  commands;  she  told  him  to 
come  to  her  again  the  next  day. 

Then  returned  Juan  Diego  to  his  house,  and  found  that  his  uncle,  Juan 
Bernardino,  was  ill  with  the  fever,  cocolixtli,  so  that  he  must  wait  at  home  and 
attend  him.  Early  on  the  morning  of  December  12th,  the  sick  man  being  at 
the  point  of  death,  Juan  Diego  started  to  Tlaltelolco  to  call  a confessor;  fear- 
ing that  he  might  be  delayed  if  he  met  the  lady,  and  that  his  uncle  might 
die  unconfessed,  he  went  another  way,  around  the  other  side  of  the  hill.  But 
behold!  she  was  there,  coming  down  the  hill  and  calling  to  him;  he  told  her 
of  his  uncle’s  illness  and  of  his  need  for  a confessor,  but  she  assured  him  that 
his  uncle  was  already  well.  Then  the  lady  told  him  to  gather  flowers  from 
the  barren  rocks  on  top  of  the  hill,  and  immediately  the  flowers  grew  where 
none  had  ever  been  before;  she  commanded  him  to  take  these  flowers  to  the 
Bishop  as  the  token  he  had  desired,  and  to  show  them  to  no  other  until  the 
Bishop  had  looked  upon  them. 

Joyfully  he  folded  the  flowers  in  his  tilma,  a sort  of  cloak  made  of  ixtliy  a 
fiber  of  the  maguey,  and  departed  again  for  the  Bishop’s  house.  From  the 
place  where  the  Virgin  stood  a spring  of  clear,  cold  water  gushed  forth;  that 


CHAPEL  OF  THE  WELL,  GUADALUPE. 


144 


is  there  to  this  day,  a panacea 
for  the  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to. 

When  he  came  to  the  Bishop’s 
house,  the  Indian  dropped  the 
flowers  at  the  holy  father’s  feet 
and  upon  the  tilma  appeared  the 
image  of  the  Virgin,  Holy  Mary, 
in  the  most  beautiful  colors.  The 
Bishop  placed  the  wonderful  tilma 
with  its  miraculous  picture  in  the 
oratory  of  his  house,  holding  it 
as  a priceless  treasure.  Juan 
Diego,  escorted  by  the  Bishop’s 
servants,  returned  to  his  own 
home  and  found  that  his  uncle 
was  well,  cured  in  the  hour  when 
the  Virgin  spake  and  told  him  no 
confessor  was  needed;  a chapel 
was  built  where  the  roses  had  so 
miraculously  grown  from  the 
rocks,  and  on  the  7th  of  February,  vision  of  juan  diego. 

1532,  the  tilma  of  the  holy  image  placed  over  its  altar  within  the  shrine.  Juan 
Diego  and  his  uncle,  Juan  Bernardino,  became  the  attendants,  and  under  the 
teachings  of  Fray  Toribio  Motolinia,  Juan  Diego  and  his  wife  took  vows  of 
chastity  and  remained  in  the  house  of  the  Virgin  as  her  servants  till  Juan 
Diego  died,  in  1548. 

The  legend  has  the  sanction  of  Rome,  first,  under  Pope  Alexander  VII, 
who  ordered  an  investigation  by  the  Congregation  of  Rites  with  a view  to  the 
granting  of  authority  for  the  perpetuation  of  the  feast  of  the  12th  of  Decem- 
ber, the  day  of  the  last  appearance  of  the  Virgin  to  Juan  Diego,  the  day  of 
his  gathering  the  roses  in  his  tilma,  and  the  appearance  of  the  image 
when  the  flowers  fell  at  the  Bishop’s  feet.  In  1666  Sefior  Don  Francisco 

Siles,  Dean  of  the  Cathedral,  or- 
ganized a tribunal  of  investigation 
consisting  of  Juan  de  Poblete, 
Juan  de  la  Camara,  Juan  Diez  de  la 
Barrera  and  Nicolas  del  Puerto, 
Canons  Siles  and  Antonio  de 
Gama;  they  went  to  the  village 
of  Cuautitlan,  the  birthplace  of 
Juan  Diego,  and  had  confirmed 
by  the  natives,  some  of  whom 
were  over  a hundred  years  old, 
the  truth  of  the  story  as  they  had 
been  taught  it  by  their  fathers  be- 
fore them.  This  and  other  evi- 
dence was  sent  to  Rome,  but  it 
availed  nothing.  Cardinal  Julio 
Rospillozzi,  who  in  1667  was  elect- 
ed Pope,  under  the  title  of  Clem- 
ent IX,  wrote  to  the  Dean  of  the 
Cathedral  of  Puebla  that  recogni- 
tion was  impossible  because  of 
SECOND  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  VIRGIN.  the  similarity  of  the  legend  to  that 


145 


of  the  Immaculate  Conception; 
that  it  seemed  superfluous  to 
grant  a special  office  for  the  fes- 
tival of  Guadalupe.  But  when  he 
became  Pope  he  was  more  liberal 
to  the  petitioners,  and,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  further  information,  con- 
tinued the  authority  for  the  festi- 
val. The  succeeding  pontiffs  dur- 
ing the  following  century  inter- 
posed no  objections  to  the  recog- 
nition of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe, 
but  there  was  no  official  indorse- 
ment. Toward  the  middle  of  the 
eighteenth  century  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe  was  made  the  Patron 
Saint  of  Mexico  for  her  protec- 
tion during  the  plague  of  the 
matlanzahuatl  in  1736.  In  1754, 

Juan  Francisco  Lopez,  a Jesuit 
priest,  having  been  sent  to  Rome  third  appearance  of  the  virgin. 

for  that  purpose,  secured  favorable  action  by  the  Congregation  of  Rites,  and  the 
feast  of  the  12th  of  December  was  established  by  the  Papal  bull  of  Benedict 
XIV,  dated  25th  of  May  of  that  year,  and  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  was  officially 
proclaimed  the  Protectress  and  Patroness  of  Mexico,  or  New  Spain. 

On  the  15th  of  September,  1810,  when  Hidalgo  took  the  banner  of  this  Vir- 
gin from  the  little  church  of  Atotonilco  and  proclaimed  the  independence  of 
Mexico,  ‘"Guadalupe”  became  the  battle-cry  of  his  followers.  The  first  Congress 
of  the  Republic  of  Mexico  gave  the  festival  further  recognition  by  making  the 
I2th  of  December  a national  holiday  through  the  decree  of  November  27th, 
1824,  and  the  day  is  religiously  observed  throughout  the  country,  particularly 
by  the  Indians,  who  in  former  years  walked  hundreds  of  miles  to  present 

themselves  before  the  holy  shrine, 
and  since  the  building  of  the 
railroads,  come  from  the  utter- 
most parts  by  train  loads.  There 
are  other  festivals  of  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe,  notably  that  of  Jan- 
uary I2th,  when  the  Archbishop 
and  the  clerical  dignitaries  are 
present,  and  the  feast  is  one  of 
splendid  magnificence,  another  on 
the  22d  of  November,  one  on  the 
3d  of  December,  and  on  the  12th 
of  each  month.  At  the  foot  of  the 
Hill  of  Guadalupe  is  a group  of 
churches,  that  have  grown  about 
the  original  church  of  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Guadalupe,  built  by 
Bishop  Zumarraga,  afterwards 
Archbishop  of  Mexico,  who  re- 
ceived the  sacred  tilma  from  Juan 
Diego.  The  first  temple  of  the 

APPEARANCE  OF  THE  IMAGE  ON  THE  TILMA.  tilma  was  built  and  the  image 


146 


placed  in  it  within  fourteen  days  after  the  apparition.  A hundred  years  after, 
a new  and  larger  church  was  added  and  the  tilma  with  its  miraculous  image 
placed  in  it,  in  November  of  1622.  Here  the  tilma  remained  for  three  hun- 
dred years,  with  the  exception  of  four  years,  when  it  was  housed  in  the  Cathe- 
dral in  the  City  of  Mexico. 

During  the  great  inundation  of  1629,  when  the  City  was  endangered,  the 
Archbishop  Francisco  Manso  y Zuniga  and  the  viceroy.  Marques  of  Cerralvo, 
sought  the  aid  of  the  Virgin  for  the  subsidence  of  the  waters,  and  to  that  end 
brought  the  holy  image  of  the  tilma  to  the  Cathedral.  The  waters  covered 
the  face  of  the  earth  in  all  the  valley,  and  the  bringing  of  the  image  was  in  a 
barge,  in  which  rode  the  Archbishop,  the  Viceroy  followed  in  another  barge 
carrying  a brilliant  company  of  the  dignitaries  of  church  and  state. 

This  weird  and  unique  procession  passed  over  the  waters  in  the  night, 
the  barges  and  gondolas  were  lighted  with  torches  and  paper  lanterns,  while 
the  musicians  played  sacred  music  and  the  people  sang  their  hymns  to  the 
Virgin.  When  the  flotilla  came  to  streets  of  the  city  the  image  was  taken  to 
the  Archbishop’s  residence  for  the  night,  whence  it  was  taken  the  next  day 
to  the  Cathedral,  where  it  remained  four  years,  till  the  subsidence  of  the  waters, 
then  taken  back  to  the  shrine  at  the  Hill  of  Guadalupe. 

In  1695  the  existing  parish  church  was  built  and  used  as  a temporary  shrine 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  while  the  work  on  a larger  and  greater  temple 
progressed,  which  was  dedicated  in  May,  1709.  The  arched  roof  is  surmounted 
by  a dome  and  lantern  that  is  125  feet  from  the  floor,  the  supports  are  massive 
Corinthian  columns.  The  nave  is  nearly  200  feet  long  by  122  feet  wide.  The 
original  altar  was  from  designs  by  the  great  Tolsa,  drawn  in  1802,  but  the  work 
was  so  hindered  by  the  wars  from  1810  to  1821  that  little  or  no  progress  was 
made,  and  it  was  not  completed  till  1836;  the  cost  to  this  time  was  nearly  half 
a million  dollars,  which,  added  to  the  million  or  more  that  the  churches  had 
cost,  made  the  expenditures  nearly  two  million  dollars  up  to  that  year.  Around 
the  chancel  was  placed  a massive  silver  railing  on  a base  of  white  marble, 
the  gift  of  the  Viceroy  Bucareli,  who  lies  under  the  pavement  of  the  west  aisle. 
The  choir  was  of  carved  mahogany  and  ebony;  there  are  other  carvings  in 
the  sacristy,  where  there  are  also  some  paintings  and  two  very  curious  tables 
of  onyx.  This  church  is  what  is  termed  ‘'collegiate,”  that  is,  although  not  the 
seat  of  an  archbishop  or  bishop,  has  the  organization  of  a cathedral. 

In  the  year  1887  Father  Antonio  Plancarte  y Labastida  prepared  to  carry 
out  a long  cherished  design  for  renovation  and  embellishment  of  the  Church 
of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe,  and  he  lived  long  enough  to  see  the  crowning  glory 
in  the  completion  of  his  work  before  he  put  down  his  burden.  Father  Plan- 
carte  died  in  1898.  When  the  work  was  commenced  the  tilma  was  moved  to 
the  adjoining  church,  one  time  the  convent  of  the  Capuchinas,  but  not  with- 
out some  opposition  on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  who  ever  watch  the  image  with 
a jealous  eye;  they  are  suspicious  of  every  move;  and  when  the  work  was 
completed  it  was  replaced  in  the  renewed  basilica  on  the  30th  of  September, 
1895,  at  a very  early  hour  before  the  break  of  day,  thus  avoiding  further  protests 
from  the  Indians.  The  architects  for  the  renewal  of  the  church  were  Senor 
Don  Emilio  Donde,  who  was  succeeded  by  Don  Juan  Agea,  who  carried  the 
work  to  completion.  On  entering  the  great  doorway  there  is  a bewildering 
sense  of  the  gorgeous  magnificence  of  the  scenic  interior,  and  one  stands 
almost  in  awe,  with  indecision  whether  to  move  on  or  stand  there,  and  so 
great  is  the  beauty  of  the  ensemble  that  it  is  hardly  possible  to  fix  the  eye 
on  individual  objects;  before  entering  there  was  a pre-eminent  object  of  seeing 
the  famous  tilma,  but  for  the  moment  even  that  is  forgotten  in  the  glorious 
harmony  of  color. 


147 


The  presbyterum  is  reached  by  four  separate  flights  of  twelve  steps  and 
is  paved  with  diamond  slabs  of  white  and  black  Carrara  marble. 

The  magnificent  altar  containing  the  frame  holding  the  sacred  tilma  is  a 
mass  of  Carrara  marble  white  as  the  snows  of  Popocatapetl,  exquisitely  carved 
and  wrought  with  gilded  bronze,  executed  at  Carrara  by  the  sculptor  Nicoli 
from  designs  by  the  Mexican  artists,  Agea  and  Salome  Pina.  The  bronze  work 
was  done  in  Brussels.  On  the  left,  or  Gospel  side,  of  the  altar  is  the  figure  of 
Juan  Zumarraga,  on  the  Epistle,  or  right  side,  that  of  Juan  Diego,  done  in 
Carrara  marble;  im- 
mediately in  front  is 
the  kneeling  figure  of 
Mgr.  Labastida  y 
Davalos,  Archbishop 
of  Mexico,  under 
whose  care  the  great 
work  was  completed. 

Under  the  statue  are 
his  ashes  and  the  re- 
mains of  his  father 
and  mother.  At  the 
top  of  the  frame  hold- 
ing the  image  on  the 
tilma  are  the  marble 
reliefs  of  three  angels 
represe  n t i n g the 
archdioceses  of  Mex- 
ico, Michoacan  and 
Guadalajara,  which 
were  chiefly  instru- 
mental in  securing 
the  Papal  authority 
for  the  coronation. 

Above  the  High 
Altar  is  a splendid 
Byzantine  baldachin  high  altar  of  Guadalupe. 

supported  by  pillars  of  Scotch  granite,  surmounted  by  a gilded  cross  of  roses, 
the  flowers  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  The  front  arch  of  the  baldachin  bears 
the  arms  of  Pope  Leo  XIII,  the  other  three  arches  the  arms  of  the  Archbishops 
of  Mexico,  Michoacan  and  Guadalajara,  who  applied  to  Pope  Leo  for  permis- 
sion to  crown  the  image  of  the  tilma.  On  the  baldachin  in  Gothic  letters  are  the 
Latin  lines  composed  by  Pope  Leo  XIII,  as  follows: 


Mexicus  heic  populus  mira  sub  Imagine  gaudet 
Te  colore,  alma  Parens,  prsesidioque  frui. 

Per  te  sic  vigeat  felix,  teque  auspice,  Christi 
Immotam  servet  firmior  usque  fidem. 

—LEO  PP.  XIII. 


Which,  being  translated,  means: 

‘‘The  Mexican  people  i;^joice  in  worshiping  Thee,  Holy  Mother,  under 
this  miraculous  Image,  and  in  looking  to  Thee  for  protection. 

“May  that  people  through  Thee  flourish  in  happiness,  and  ever,  under  Thy 
auspices,  grow  stronger  in  the  faith  of  Christ.^’ 

Between  the  arches  of  the  baldachin  are  bronze  statues  representing  the 
cardinal  virtues.  Prudence,  Justice,  Fortitude  and  Temperance. 


148 


Underneath  the  High  Altar  is  a crypt  with  a vaulted  iron  roof  that  will 
sustain  a weight  of  300,000  pounds.  The  crypt  contains  four  altars  under  the 
High  Altar,  and  has  thirty  urns  for  the  reception  of  the  ashes  of  the  thirty 
persons  who  gave  $5,000  each  to  the  cost  of  the  High  Altar  and  the  baldachin, 
the  total  cost  of  which  was  $150,000. 

The  blue  vaults  of  the  roof  are  studded  with  gold  stars  in  relief;  in  fact, 
the  stars  are  of  cedar  fastened  to  the  roof.  The  beams  are  beautifully  decorated 
in  Byzantine  designs.  The  dome  is  a mass  of  gilding  relieved  with  festoons 
of  pink  roses;  the  panels  are  frescoed  with  figures  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe 
and  of  angels  with  scrolls,  and  allegorical  attributes  of  the  Virgin.  The  lantern 
of  the  dome  is  of  stained  glass,  the  gift  of  the  College  of  the  Sacred  Heart, 
of  San  Cosme,  Canon  Mantilla,  J.  L.  Traslosheros,  the  Theological  Seminary 
of  Durango,  J.  M.  Fierro,  Ygnacio  Rivero,  Guadalupe  Ovando  and  Eduardo  de 
Ovando.  The  four  spaces  below  the  dome  show  the  figures  of  the  four  evan- 
gelists. 

The  walls  of  the  basilica  are  richly  decorated  with  five  splendid  frescoes, 
gifts  of  the  diocese  of  Zacatecas,  archdiocese  of  Durango,  diocese  of  Yucatan, 
Bishop  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  the  diocese  of  Quere- 
taro.  The  first  fresco  to  the  right  on  entering,  by 
the  artist  Don  Felipe  G.  Gutierrez,  is  a representation 
of  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  under  the  benign 
influence  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  who  is  seen 
hovering  in  the  air  over  the  groups  listening  to  the 
preaching  of  the  friars  and  being  baptized  by  them. 
The  second  on  the  right  is  by  a young  Jesuit  priest. 
Fray  Gonzalo  Carrasco,  shows  the  conveying  of  the 
tilma  with  the  sacred  image,  December  26th,  1531, 
from  the  house  of  Bishop  Zumarraga  to  the  first 
church  built  for  its  keeping  at  the  foot  of  the  Hill  of 
Tepeyacac.  It  is  a solemn  procession,  with  the  image 
borne  under  a canopy  attended  by  a brilliant  coterie 
of  clericals  arrayed  in  gorgeous  vestments  and  gaily 
costumed  cavaliers,  with  which  there  is  strange  con- 
trast in  the  sombre  garb  of  the  friars  and  the  dress  of 
the  Indians.  About  the  canopy  and  the  image  are 
acolytes  bearing  candles  and  flambeaux.  In  the  lower 
THE  CROWN.  right-hand  corner  is  a representation  of  the  first  mir- 

acle performed  through  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe:  in  the  fervor  of  adoration  the 
Indians  had  been  sending  arrows  and  javelins  through  the  air;  one  of  them 
wounds  a young  man;  his  mother  runs  and  begs  the  people  to  turn  back  and 
care  for  him,  but  as  the  image  is  borne  near  the  spot  where  the  injured  Indian 
lies  his  wounds  are  miraculously  healed.  The  fresco  is  a splendid  piece  of  work 
by  a fine  artist. 

The  first  fresco  from  the  entrance  on  the  left  or  west  side  of  the  church 
shows  the  presentation  of  the  copy  of  the  tilma  and  the  image  to  Pope  Bene- 
dict XIV  by  the  Jesuit  Juan  Francisco  Lopez,  in  1751,  in  soliciting  the  Papal 
authority  for  the  festival  and  recognition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  The 
Pontiff  is  in  the  act  of  exclaiming  “Non  fecit  taliter  omni  Nationi.”  The 
picture  is  a striking  one  of  historic  as  well  as  artistic  merit. 

The  second  on  the  left  is  by  Don  Felix  Parra.  It  represents  the  salvation  of 
the  people  from  the  dreadful  plague  “matlazahuatl,”  in  1737,  by  the  invocation 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  by  Archbishop  Antonio  Bizarron  y Eguiarreta,  who 
placed  the  city  under  her  protection  and  the  pestilence  departed  from  the  land. 
In  the  foreground  an  Indian  smitten  with  the  plague  is  kneeling  in  supplica- 


149 


tion,  beyond  in  the  background  is  a splendid  altar  surrounded  by  a company  of 
gorgeously  robed  bishops,  darkly  cassocked  priests  and  gaily  attired  cavaliers, 
officers  of  the  city  and  of  the  Spanish  king.  The  picture  is  a brilliant  one 
of  harmonizing  colors  that  hold  one  in  earnest  contemplation. 

The  fresco  nearest  the  altar  on  the  west  side  is  by  Sefior  Ibarraran  y Ponce, 
representing  the  taking  of  the  evidence,  in  1666,  of  the  Vision  for  the  purpose 
of  sending  to  Rome  for  papal  recognition.  The  frescoes  bear  the  names  of 
the  donors. 

On  the  wall  between  two  of  the  frescoes  is  an  inscription  in  Latin,  which, 
being  translated,  says:  ‘‘The  Mexican  people,  in  honor  of  the  Virgin  of 

Guadalupe,  who  in  old  time  appeared  on  the  Hill  of 
Tepeyac  to  Juan  Diego,  erected  a holy  temple  and  with 
all  piety  venerated  the  ancient  Image.  One  of  the 
most  conspicuous  in  its  cult  was  the  Archbishop 
Pelagio  Antonio  de  Labastida  y Davalos,  a most 
munificent  restorer  of  this  collegiate  church.  Now 
at  length,  as  all  had  wished,  and  as  the  Chapter  of 
the  Vatican  Basilica  had  decreed  in  A.  D.  1740,  the 
famous  Image,  with  the  sanction  of  the  Supreme 
Pontiff,  Leo  XIII,  was  crowned  with  a diadem  of 
gold  on  the  fourth  day  before  the  Ides  of  October, 

1895,  Prospero  M.  Alarcon  being  Archbishop  of 
Mexico,  to  stand  forever  as  the  shield,  the  protection 
and  the  honor  of  the  Mexican  people.”  On  each  side 
of  this  inscription  are  the  names  of  those  who  have 
helped  in  the  building  of  the  church,  not  only  by 
gifts  of  money,  but  in  whatever  way  they  may  have 
assisted.  In  the  apse  behind  the  High  Altar  are  mural 
portraits  of  the  Popes  Benedict  XIV  and  Leo  XIII, 

Archbishop  Labastida,  and  Mgr.  Alarcon,  the  arch- 
bishop at  the  time  of  the  coronation  of  the  image 
in  1895,  and  a painting  of  the  arms  of  Father  Plan- 
carte.  Here  also  is  the  family  chanel  and 
vault  of  Sehor  Don  Antonio  de  Mier  y Celis; 
the  chapel  is  dedicated  to  St.  Joseph  and  is 
most  beautifully  decorated.  The  crypt  under 
the  chapel  is  an  exact  reproduction  of  the 
crypt  of  the  Escorial  in  Madrid.  The  three 
stained  glass  windows  of  the  chapel  are 
gems  of  the  art  and  cost  $17,000.  The  altars 
with  family  vaults  are  five  in  number;  that  of 
Madame  Martinez  is  dedicated  to  Mexican  saints;  the  altar  of  San  Antonio  be- 
longs to  Miguel  de  Cervantes  Estanillo;  of  San  Joachim,  to  Manuel  Fernandez 
del  Castillo;  the  altar  dedicated  to  the  founders  of  religious  orders  which  la- 
bored for  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  of  Mexico  belongs  to  Father  Plancarte, 
all  of  which  are  handsomely  decorated.  There  is  also  a Chapel  of  the  Sacred 
Heart.  In  all  there  are  ten  altars  in  this  great  church.  The  fine  windows  of 
the  church  were  the  gifts  of  prominent  people  of  Mexico. 

The  High  Altar  holds  the  sacred  tilma  in  which  Juan  Diego  brought  the 
roses  to  the  Bishop,  and  on  which  the  Image  of  the  Virgin  so  miraculously  ap- 
peared. Some  years  ago  a number  of  artists  and  scientific  men  were  per- 
mitted to  examine  the  picture,  which  they  did  critically,  taking  off  the  plate 
glass,  but  they  were  not  able  to  say  that  the  colors  were  put  on  in  any  manner 
known  to  art;  they  all  agreed  that  the  picture  was  not  painted,  and  by  their 


STONE  SAILS  OF  GUADALUPE. 


160 


decision  the  mystery  of  the  picture  was  enhanced  and  its  miraculous  origin 
all  but  determined.  The  tilma  has  remained  here  in  this  place  for  nearly  four 
hundred  years;  its  colors  are  bright  and  fresh,  while  other  pictures  as  old  are 
faded  and  worn;  is  it  any  wonder  that  the  mass  of  the  people  believe,  since 
learned  men  and  artists  cannot  of  their  learning  and  art  gainsay  the  legend? 

The  adoration  of  the  image  on  the  tilma  has  not  been  confined  to  olden 
times;  it  continues,  and  will  continue  for  all  time.  The  culmination  was  on  the 
I2th  of  October,  1895,  when  a crown  of  gold  and  jewels,  a galaxy  of  gems, 
diamonds,  rubies  and  sapphires,  was  placed  over  the  tilma.  On  that  day  came 
the  pilgrims  from  every  quarter,  thronged  the  church  and  covered  the  plain 
round  about. 

It  was  a magnificent  scene  to  stand  upon  the  hill  and  look  down  upon  the 
limitless,  numberless  multitude  of  pilgrims,  come  from  the  remotest  corners  of 
Mexico  and  assembled  here  without  the  walls,  for  only  hundreds  could  get 
within  the  sacred  portals,  the  unsheltered  thousands  knelt  in  mute  adoration, 
with  bowed  heads,  in  the  dust  of  the  salty  plain,  and  listened  to  the  tolling  of 
the  bells  in  the  tower  when  the  jeweled,  golden  crown  was  raised  to  the  brow 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  then  fell  down  and  kissed  the  ground  in  the  fervor 
of  their  adoration  and  blessed  the  memory  of  good  Juan  Diego. 

Within,  under  the  arches  of  the  vaulted  temple,  were  gathered  the  digni- 
taries of  the  Holy  Church  of  Rome,  come  from  all  the  sees  and  bishoprics  of 
the  western  world,  to  render  homage,  and  in  all  the  pomp  and  ceremony  of  the 
church,  with  mitered  heads  and  in  gorgeous  robes,  lifted  up  their  voices  111 
adulation  to  the  Queen  of  Heaven,  and  bowed  down  before  her  image  on  the 
Indian’s  tilma.  In  priestly  procession  the  chief  apostles  of  the  church  came 
from  the  robing  rooms  in  gorgeous  attire,  passed  through  the  crowded  corri- 
dors till  they  came  and  gathered  around  the  Archbishop’s  throne,  and  then 
came  the  bearers  of  the  jeweled  crown,  almost  hidden  in  clouds  of  incense, 
while  a choir  of  boyish  voices  chanted  anthems  of  praise. 

There  was  a clangor  of  bells,  across  the  plain  booming  cannon  reverberated 
against  the  hills  that  throw  their  lengthened  shadows  over  the  valley  of  Mex- 
ico. Thousands  and  thousands  of  pilgrims  had  gathered  at  the  Hill  of  Guada- 
lupe, and  the  darkened  spots  here  and  there  in  the  plain  showed  where  other 
pilgrims  were  plodding  to  their  Mecca,  footsore  and  weary,  yet  straggling  on 
to  join  the  throng  of  devotees — and  quickened  their  pace  when  faintly  came 
the  tolling  of  the  bells,  and  as  the  roll  of  the  artillery  announced  the  hour, 
they  knew  the  time  was  at  hand. 

The  glad  news  had  gone  over  every  hill,  down  to  every  valley  and  over  all 
the  plains  of  Mexico,  that  the  coronation  of  Guadalupe  was  to  be  on  this  day. 
The  news  went  not  by  advertisement  or  printed  paper,  but  on  the  wings  of  the 
wind.  The  birds  of  the  air  told  it  to  the  people,  and  they  came  and  knelt  at 
the  hill  of  Guadalupe,  that  was  called  Tepayacac. 

The  crown  is  of  gold  and  precious  stones,  contributed  by  the  women  of 
Mexico  from  their  own  jewels,  and  was  made  by  a Parisian  goldsmith  at  a cost 
of  over  $30,000  for  manufacture  alone.  In  shape  it  is  an  imperial  diadem,  62 
centimeters  high  and  130  centimeters  in  circumference.  There  are  22  shields 
representing  the  22  bishoprics  of  Mexico.  Above  these  are  angels  circling  the 
crown  and  upholding  six  other  shields  bearing  the  arms  of  the  six  Arch- 
bishoprics of  Mexico.  From  the  wings  of  the  angels  are  festoons  of  roses  and 
diamonds  gathered  at  the  top  under  a globe  showing  Mexico  and  the  Gulf. 

Surmounting  the  whole  is  the  eagle  of  Mexico  bearing  in  its  talons  a dia- 
mond cross.  The  crown  is  held  above  the  image  on  the  tilma  by  a cherub.  The 
shields  are  surrounded  by  emeralds  and  sapphires,  and  on  the  breast,  of 


151 


each  angel  is  a blazing  ruby.  Altogether  it  is  the  finest  jewel  used  in  religious 
ceremonies  in  existence. 

At  the  coronation  the  ladies  who  gave  their  jewels  for  the  crown  carried  it 
to  the  steps  of  the  throne  of  the  Archbishop,  where  the  Papal  brief  author- 
izing the  coronation  was  read,  and  the  notarial  certificates  of  the  action  made, 
and  it  was  received  by  the  Archbishop  amid  the  clangor  of  bells  and  salvos  of 
artillery. 

A solemn  mass  was  said,  and  then  the  crown  was  carried  in  grand  procession 
through  the  assembled  congregation,  and  when  it  had  returned  again  to  the 
throne  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico,  assisted  by  the  Archbishop  of  Michoacan, 
ascended  the  platform  and  exactly  at  noon  placed  the  crown  in  its  place  over 
the  head  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  above  the  tilma  of  Juan  Diego,  and  the 
coronation  was  done. 

It  was  the  scene  of  a lifetime;  women  were  overcome  with  emotion  and 
men  moved  with  the  enthusiasm  of  the  hour.  Not  alone  were  they  Mexicans 
who  were  here  to  take  part;  there  were  Archbishops  and  Bishops  from  other 
countries,  from  the  United  States,  Canada  and  Cuba.  The  Archbishop  of  New 
York,  of  Quebec  and  of  Santiago  de  Cuba  and  the  Bishops  from  everywhere, 
none  too  high  to  give  him  reverence  whose  homely  service  brought  the 
flowers  in  his  tilma  and  poured  them  down  at  the  feet  of  good  old  Zumarraga, 
and  held  before  the  first  bishop  the  first  image  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe. 

The  event  of  the  coronation  revived  the  discussion  of  the  authenticity  of  the 
tilma  and  the  image;  one  bishop  at  least,  the  Bishop  of  Tamaulipas,  dis- 
sented and  preached  against  it,  and  the  great  agnostic,  Senor  Don  Juan  Ma- 
teos, who  has  been  called  the  Ingersoll  of  Mexico,  opened  the  flood  gates  of 
his  splendid  oratory  against  the  story  of  the  tilma  and  eulogizing  the  advance- 
ment which  he  sees  in  the  unbelief  of  a bishop  of  the  Church.  But  the  legend 
will  go  on  forever,  and  it  can  do  no  harm,  even  if  it  only  serves 
for  a pretty  story,  it  will  live;  but  it  will  do  more  than  that 
among  the  people  whence  Juan  Diego  came,  if  it  brings  the 
story  of  the  Holy  Child  home  to  them.  The  controversy  brought 
forth  an  edict  from  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico  which  calls  atten- 
tion to  the  tradition  of  the  centuries,  the  approval  of  the  Popes, 
and  while  not  putting  down  the  apparition  as  an 
article  of  faith,  the  edict  says  finally  in  exhortation: 
“Preserve,  therefore,  the  traditions  which  you  have 
inherited  from  your  forefathers  and  hold  indelibly 
in  your  memory  the  words  which  Lorenzana  caused 
to  be  written  with  regard  to  the  first  Archbishop 
of  Mexico,  Dr.  Zumarraga.  Heaven  rewarded  his 
apostolic  labors  and  his  painful  diocesan  vis- 
its made  on  foot  by  vouchsafing  the  appari- 
tion to  him  on  December  12th,  1531,  of  the 
miraculous  image  of  Our  Lady  of  Guada- 
lupe, a favor  which  kindled  in  his  heart 
such  flames  of  devotion  towards  that  Holy 
Queen  that  at  his  own  expense  he  began 
^ the  construction  of  the  first  chapel  in  her 
honor,  there  to  satisfy  his  own  devotion 
and  that  of  the  faithful  by  an  incessant  round  of 
services.”  Then  came,  by  the  Archbishop’s  order, 
fiestas  more  elaborate  and  brilliant  than  ever  be- 
fore, the  people  came  as  they  never  came  before, 
and  as  they  will  come  on  forever  to  worship  at  the 


BEGGAR  ON  THE  STAIRS. 


162 


Hill  of  Guadalupe.  The  great  church  fronts  on  the  main  plaza  of  the  City  of 
Guadalupe,  opposite  the  street  that  leads  to  the  causeway  over  which  the  street 
cars  pass  to  and  from  the  City  of  Mexico ; the  cars  pass  the  church  and  stop 
under  the  trees  of  the  little  alameda  which  adjoins  it  on  the  east  side.  The 
church  is  a massive  stone  structure  with  a tall  tower,  filled  with  behs,  on  ea^h 
corner;  the  southwest  tower  holds  the  town  clock;  the  towers  are  over  a hun- 
dred feet  high.  The  center  fagade,  through  which  is  the  main  door,  is  of  stone 
and  marble  whiteness,  handsomely  sculptured ; twenty  stone  columns  support 
the  elaborately  carved  friezes  of  the  first  and  second  elevations ; between  the  sets 
of  two  columns  are  life-size  figures,  also  in  stone.  Immediately  over  the 
main  entrance  and  in  the  center  of  the  fagade  is  a sculptured  representation  of 
the  scene  in  the  Bishop’s  house  when  Juan  Diego  let  the  roses  fall  from  his 
tilma,  disclosing  the  image  of  the  Virgin.  In  the  center  of  the  arched  roof 
is  a massive  dome,  the  lantern  of  which  is  125  feet  above  the  floor  of  the 
church. 

Adjoining  the  church  on  the  east  side  is  the  ancient  convent,  called  in  old 
times  Santa  Coleta,  later  as  the  Capuchinas  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guada- 
lupe. The  first  movement  toward  the  establishment  of  the  convent  was  in  1575, 
again  in  1707,  but  it  was  not  authorized  until  1780,  and  the  building  not  com- 
pleted till  1787.  The  convent  was  closed  and  the  nuns  expelled  by  the  Laws  of 
the  Reform,  and  the  building  relegated  to  church  and  school  uses.  The  convent 
and  church  was  erected  at  a cost  of  nearly  a quarter  of  a million  dollars.  This 
old  structure  is  after  the  conventional  style  of  church  architecture  in  Mexico, 
and  has  principally  its  antiquity  to  interest  the  visitor,  and  again  as  the  abiding 
place  of  the  image  on  the  tilma  for  many  years.  The  Capilla  del  Pocito,  the 
chapel  of  the  well,  is  just  beyond  the  little  park  of  trees  on  the  east  of  the 
church — a beautiful  little  chapel  with  a dome  of  glazed  tiles  that  covers  the 
spring  of  water  that  gushed  from  where  the  Virgin  stood  as  she  sent  the  Indian 
away  with  the  flowers.  The  spring  is  just  inside  the  door  of  the  chapel,  beyond 
it,  under  the  dome,  is  the  altar  and  a carved  pulpit  supported  by  an  image  of 
Juan  Diego;  on  the  walls  are  paintings  of  the  various  visions  of  the  Virgin. 
This  chapel  was  completed  in  1791  at  a cost  of  over  $50,000;  the  architect  was 
Don  Francisco  Guerrero  y Torres,  who  gave  his  services  free.  Just  opposite 
the  Chapel  of  the  Well  on  the  rise  of  the  hill  is  the  spot  where  the  Virgin  ap- 
peared in  one  of  the  visions ; the  spot  was  marked  by  a pillar  supporting  an 

image  of  the  Virgin. 

Commencing  here  is  the  ascent  of  the  hill  by  means  of  a stone  stair- 
way that  leads  to  the  Capilla  del  Cerrito,  the  Chapel  of  the  Hill.  About 
half  way  up  the  stairs  are  the  Stone  Sails  of  Guadalupe,  and  thereby  hangs 
a tale : Some  sailors  in  dire  distress  in  a storm-tossed  ship  that  had  lost  her 

rudder,  prayed  to  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  and  vowed  that  if  she  would 
bring  them  safe  to  land  they  would  carry  the  foremast  to  the  Hill  of  Guada- 
lupe and  set  the  sails  before  her  shrine.  There  the  sails  are  to  this  day,  in- 
cased in  stone,  a memorial  to  the  protecting  power  of  the  Virgin.  The  date 

of  the  placing  of  this  curious  work  remains  untold  in  the  annals  of  Guada- 

lupe. The  walk  up  the  stone  stairs  is  a long  one,  but  not  tiresome  if  you 
stop  here  and  there,  as  you  will,  to  see  the  magnificent  panorama  that  grows 
wider  at  every  step  till  it  spreads  out  in  one  grand,  glorious  picture,  the  like 
of  which  is  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  The  towers  and  domes  of  the  churches 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill  are  beneath  your  feet ; beyond  the  towers  the  village  of 
Guadalupe ; across  the  plain  the  city  and  lakes,  .and  surrounding  all  the  moun- 
tains, dimly,  beautifully  blue. 


153 


The  Capilla  del  Cerrito,  the  “chapel  of  the  little  hill,”  is  built  on  the 
spot  where  grew  the  roses  in  the  barren  rock,  that  sprang  up  at  the  Virgin’s 
word  for  Juan  Diego  to  gather  and  take  to  the  Bishop  in  token  of  her  wish 
for  a temple  there.  Until  the  year  1660  the  place  was  marked  only  by  a 
wooden  cross ; at  that  time  a little  chapel  was  built  there  on  the  top  of  the 
hill  by  Don  Cristobal  de  Aguirre,  who  made  an  endowment  of  $1,000  for  a 
solemn  service  to  be  held  on  the  12th  of  December  of  each  year  in  memory 
of  the  vision  of  the  Virgin.  The  chapel  as  it  now  stands  was  built  by  the 
Presbitero  Don  Juan  de  Montufar  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century; 
he  built  also  the  stone  stairway  from  the  plain  to  the  top  of  the  hill.  Back 
of  the  chapel  is  a pretty  little  cemetery,  where  rest  the  remains  of  many 
prominent  Mexicans,  among  whom  lies  buried  the  famous  General  and  Dic- 
tator, Santa  Ana.  A winding  path  leads  down  the  west  slope  of  the  hill,  afford- 
ing an  easy  descent.  About  half  way  down  is  a curious  little  grotto  in  a tiny 
garden ; the  grotto  is  decorated  with  mosaics  ingeniously  laid  in  the  rocky 
clefs,  the  work  of  some  of  the  servitors  of  the  church. 

Thus,  going  to  the  right  of  the  church  and  old  convent,  through  the  little 
park  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Well,  thence  up  the  stone  stairs  to  the  “Chapel  of 
the  Little  Hill,  down  the  path  on  the  west  slope,  one  passes  around  the 
charmed  circle  of  churches,  chapels  and  shrines,  and  near  the  places  where 
the  Virgin  appeared  to  Juan  Diego.  The  first  two  visions  were  on  the  side 
of  the  hill,  on  its  southern  slope,  near  where  the  great  church  now  stands, 
on  Saturday,  December  9th,  1531  ; the  third  and  fourth  visions,  the  next 
morning  and  afternoon,  Sunday,  loth,  near  the  same  spot.  The  fifth  and  last 
appearance  of  the  Virgin,  Tuesday,  December  12th,  was  on  the  spot  marked 
by  the  Chapel  of  the  Well;  the  waters  gushed  forth  from  where  she  stood. 
The  roses  were  found  on  top  of  the  hill  where  the  Chapel  of  the  Little  Hid 
now  stands.  The  village  of  Guadalupe  was  made  a town  by  a royal  order  of  the 
King  of  Spain  in  1748.  The  Congress  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico  granted  a char- 
ter on  the  I2th  of  February,  1828,  which  raised  the  town  to  the  dignity  of  a city, 
and  in  the  City  of  Guadalupe  was  signed  the  treaty  of  peace  that  was  the 
closing  act  of  the  war  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  called  the 
treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo,  dated  February  2d,  1848.  Electric  cars  leave  the 
Piaza  Mayor,  immediately  in  front  of  the  Cathedral  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and 
run  in  a northeasterly  direction,  after  leaving  the  streets  of  the  city,  across  the 
plain  to  Guadalupe ; the  route  of  the  cars  is  on  one  of  the  two  old  causeways 
of  the  Aztecs  and  Spaniards  that  led  from  the  city  to  Tepeyacac.  The  two 
causeways  run  side  by  side;  the  eastern  causeway,  occupied  by  the  street  car 
tracks,  is  the  oldest — w^as  built  by  the  Aztecs,  repaired  and  enlarged  by  the  Span- 
ish in  1604-6.  The  western  is  not  so  ancient;  it  is  called  Calzada  Nueva,  “the 
new  causeway,”  now  occupied  by  the  tracks  of  the  Mexican  (Vera  Cruz)  Rail- 
way, was  built  in  1675-6.  This  new  calzada  was  the  great  highway  to  Guadalupe 
and  the  route  of  the  processions  from  the  Cathedral  and  the  churches  in 
the  city  to  the  shrine  of  Guadalupe.  The  road  was  paved,  the  little  arched 
bridges  were  of  cut  stone;  about  half  way  was  a beautiful  glorieta  or  circle; 
and  at  intervals  along  the  road  were  shrines  or  altars  of  cut  stone,  beautifully 
sculptured ; there  were  fifteen  of  them,  dedicated  to  the  fifteen  mysteries  of 
the  rosary,  where  the  pilgrims  uttered  the  appropriate  prayer  at  each  as  he 
passed  by.  Some. of  the  shrines  remain;  they  may  be  seen  from  car  windows  or 
from  the  street  cars  on  the  adjoining  causeway. 

Ihe  Shrine  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe  is  the  holiest  shrine  in  all  Mexico, 
and  many  pilgrims  come  to  pray  and  to  look  upon  the  glories  thereof. 


154 


THE  CITY  OF  GUADALUPE. 


There  were  cities  in  Mexico  before  the  European  who  discovered  the 
country  .was  born,  aye,  cities  with  hundreds  of  thousands  within  their  gates, 
a thousand  years  before  the  city  was  built  that  boasts  the  discoverer’s  birth, 
and  towns  were  there  on  the  plains,  and  on  the  lake  shore,  and  on  a hundred 
hills,  looking  down  to  the  valleys  below,  where  villages  nestled  in  their  shadows. 
These  have  passed  away,  and  only  their  ruined  temples,  here  and  there,  have 
left  their  pillars  and  graven  walls,  uncovered  by  the  sands  of  fleeting  cen- 
turies, in  unrefuted  evidence  of  a splendid  magnificence  and  pre-historic  civili- 
zation. 

And  there  were  cities  and  towns  in  Mexico  when  the  greatest  of  these  in 
the  United  States  of  the  North  were  but  straggling  villages.  Their  streets 
were  paved  with  stone,  while  the  grass  grew  in  ours,  the  shadows  of  high 
walls  shaded  the  passers  by,  instead  of  the  trees  that  made  the  shady  side  of 
our  thoroughfares,  and  the  first  that  is  written  here  was  a city  nearly  a hun- 
dred years  before  the  Mayflower  unloaded  its  cargo  on  Plymouth  Rock. 

These  remain  till  this  day,  and  the  traveler  of  the  newer  cities  of  the  North 
may  come  and  walk  in  the  same  paved  pathways,  pass  under  the  same  dark- 
ening arches,  may  bow  down  at  the  altars  that  were  reared  when  the  stones 
of  the  Pilgrims’  churches  were  unquarried,  and  he  may  live  under  a roof 
that  may  have  sheltered  a courtly  cavalier  of  old  Spain,  come  here  attendant 
at  a vice-regal  court.  The  streets  of  the  then,  are  the  streets  of  the  now,  and 
the  oldest  inhabitant  knows  not,  except  from  history,  when  his  house  was 
built. 

I have  not  chosen  to  put  one  before  the  other  here;  I have  written  of  them 
in  the  order  of  their  curious  names,  alphabetically  as  to  the  letters  of  their 
spelling,  leaving  the  pronunciation  all  to  you,  and  to  the  native  who  tells 
you  how. 

Acambaro.  On  the  19th  of  September,  1526,  Nicolas  Montanes  de  San 
Ak-kam'-baro  Luis,  an  Otomite  ally  of  the  Spaniards,  who  was  also  Ca- 
cique of  Xilotepec,  declared  Acambaro  a city,  and  the  next  day,  with  afl  the 
pomp  and  circumstance  of  state,  he  marched  his  soldiers  up  and  down  the 
plain  where  the  streets  were  to  be,  and  coming  to  the  place  where  the  plaza 
now  is,  a mass  was  said  in  a temporary  chapel,  on  the  spot  where  now  stands 
the  parish  church,  and  the  Church  of  San  Francisco  was  named  that  day. 
After  the  religious  ceremonies,  the  first  city  election  was  held,  that  is,  Don 
Nicolas  appointed  the  officers,  and  Acambaro  became  a full-fledged  city,  nearly 
four  hundred  years  ago. 


156 


There  was  no  mushroom  growth  in  the  advancement  of  the  town.  The 
date  of  its  founding  is  recorded,  but  not  so  the  date  of  its  completion,  and 
if  we  may  judge  from  its  narrow  streets,  the  tumble-down  houses  and  neglected 
plaza,  its  finishing  must  have  been  a century  or  so  ago,  and  the  chiefest 
charm  is  in  its  antiquity.  It  is  the  same  old  Tarascan  town  that  Nicolas 
Montanes  intended  it  should  be,  and  the  coming  of  the  railroad  has  not  dis- 
turbed its  siesta.  The  trains  come  and  go,  and  the  people  ask  not  whence 
they  come  or  where  they  go,  neither  do  they  care. 

The  Tarascans  gave  the  town  its  name  as  meaning  ‘'the  place  of  the 
maguey,”  though  little  of  it  grows  in  the  surrounding  fertile  plains,  the  lands 
being  tilled  in  more  valuable  products.  Located  on  the  King’s  highway  to 
the  Pacific  Coast,  it  was  a trading  place  of  note  many  years  ago,  and  it  was 
then  that  the  great  stone  bridge  over  the  Lerma  was  built,  and  later,  in  i8io, 
Hidalgo  concentrated  his  troops  at  Acambaro,  with  the  intention  of  march- 
ing to  the  Capital.  When  the  railway  builders  came  they  found  the  place 
in  the  way  of  their  lines,  and  it  became — a place  to  change  cars,  that’s  all. 
A day  at  Acambaro  may  not  be,  by  any  means,  the  least  delightful.  A min- 
ute’s walk  from  the  handsome  stone  station  and  the  tracks,  will  take  you 
backward  another  century,  and  (if  you  hear  not  the  whistle  or  the  engine 
bell)  to  another  country  strange  and  quaint.  There  is  no  way  to  ride,  and 
there  is  no  need  to;  you  must  walk  and  you  will  prefer  to,  through  Amargura 
Street,  passing  the  fourteen  capillas  chiquitas^  the  stations  of  the  cross,  to 
the  church  of  Soledad,  at  the  top  of  a little  hill,  coming  back  another  way 
to  the  plaza,  where  you  may  rest  under  the  great  trees. 

Near  by  is  the  church  of  San  Francisco  with  its  deserted  convent,  one 
of  the  oldest  in  all  Mexico  and  one  that  has  never  been  closed  for  repairs, 
though  there  is  a new  and  unfinished  chapel  that  was  commenced  in  1850 
as  a thank  offering  for  the  escape  of  the  town  from  cholera,  intended  to  be 
dedicated  by  Fray  Macedonio  Romero  to  Nuestra  Sehora  del  Refugios,  but 
it  was  never  finished.  These  and  the  Church  of  Guadalupe  are  all  to  be 
seen. 

Near  the  railway  track,  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from  the  station,  is 
the  great  stone  bridge  across  the  Lerma  that  was  built,  long  ago,  in  the  old 
Spanish  days;  the  massive  arches  and  columned  entry-ways  make  an  antique 
picture  that  is  in  consonance  with  the  sleepy  old  town.  The  water  supply 
is  conducted  from  the  hills  in  an  aqueduct,  built  by  a Franciscan  brother, 
Antonio  Bermul,  in  1527.  In  all  the  years  of  its  existence  Acambaro  has  at- 
tained but  10,000  inhabitants,  and  there  is  nothing  modern  in  the  place  except 
the  railway  station,  which  is  also  the  hotel  where  travelers  may  find  rooms 
and  meals  in  a more  modern  style  than  at  the  one  on  the  plaza.  Located 
in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  Acambaro  is  on  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican 
National  Railroad,  178  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  at  the  junction 
of  the  western  division  of  that  road  running  to  Morelia  and  Patzcuaro. 

Acapulco.  On  the  west  coast  of  Mexico  at  Acapulco  is  the  finest 
Ah-ka-pull'-ko  harbor  of  that  country,  and  the  second  finest  in  the  world; 
surrounded  as  it  is  by  high  mountains  with  only  a narrow  tortuous  pas- 
sage to  the  sea,  it  is  completely  land  locked  and  is  picturesque  to  a degree. 
Through  the  western  rim  of  the  hills  an  artificial  cut  has  been  made  to  ad- 
mit the  sea  breezes — it  is  called  El  Abra  de  San  Nicolas. 

Acapulco  was  early  made  a fortified  town  as  it  was  a seaport  with  a deep 
water  harbor,  and  was  garrisoned  by  the  Spanish  early  in  their  occupa- 
tion of  the  country,  and  remained  in  their  possession  till  the  close  of  the  war 
for  Independence,  with  the  exception  of  a few  days  when  the  fort  was  taken 
by  the  patriot  army  of  Morelos,  at  that  time  under  the  immediate  command 


167 


of  an  American,  a Tennessean,  Col.  Ellis  P.  Bean,  who  for  a long  time  had 
been  a prisoner  in  the  fort  at  Acapulco,  having  been  sent  there  from  Chi- 
huahua and  confined  in  the  dungeons  for  nearly  three  years,  but  escaped, 
joined  the  republican  army  under  Morelos,  and  took  his  revenge  in  tak- 
ing the  City. 

The  importance  of  Acapulco  will  be  greatly  enhanced  by  the  completion  of  the 
Cuernavaca  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Ry.,  that  not  only  connects  it  with 


THE  BASKET  WEAVER'S  DAUGHTER. 

the  City  of  Mexico,  the  railway  system  of  the  interior,  but  opens  up  a market 
for  the  extensive  mineral  and  agricultural  products  of  the  State  of  Guerrero. 

Lummis  says  of  Acapulco:  “It  is  all  the  picture  of  a dream.  The  soft 

green  of  the  bay— to  which  not  even  the  Pacific  ground  swell  can  enter — 
is  cut  by  the  sombre  green  of  the  beachless  hills.  At  the  water’s  edge,  here 
and  there,  rise  high  plumed  heads  of  palms,  with  glimpses  of  plantations  be- 
tween their  colonnades.  On  a long  narrow  strand  of  the  northern  shore 
are  strung  the  irregular  white  beads  of  the  town,  ended  at  the  left  by  the 


158 


truncate  hill — at  the  right  by  the  gray  old  fort.  Than  Acapulco  there  is  no 
better  type  of  the  Mexican  tierra  caliente.  It  is  the  jewel  of  all  tropic  Amer- 
ica; artistically  it  has  no  superior  in  any  land,  and  in  this  hemisphere  no 
equal.” 

The  harbor  of  Acapulco  was  discovered  by  Cortez  in  1531,  and  he  sailed 
from  this  port  on  his  voyage  up  the  west  coast  to  Sinaloa,  and  from  this 
port  also  sailed  May  9th,  1540,  Don  Hernando  de  Alarcon,  the  discoverer 
of  California;  from  Acapulco  the  galleon  carried  the  commerce  of  Spain  that 
had  crossed  the  Atlantic  and  the  continent,  to  her  colonies  in  the  Philippines 
for  more  than  a century. 


THE  DRAWN  WORK  OF  AQUAS  CALIENTES. 

Aguas  Calieutes.  The  name  of  this  city  may  not  be  difficult  of  re- 

Ah'-was  Cal-i-en'-tees  membrance.  It  may  have  impressed  itself  upon 

your  mind,  if  you  were  a traveler  in  Mexico  in  the  early  days  of  railroads 
there,  when  some  friend,  better  posted  on  the  language,  had  coached  you 
how  to  ask  for  something  you  did  not  get — for  the  hot  water  that  never 
came.  Aguas  Calientes  is  a veritable  city  of  hot  water,  and  the  citizens  are 
in  it  most  of  the  time,  as  may  be  seen,  even  from  the  windows  of  the  passing 
train. 

The  hot  springs,  that  have  made  the  city  famous,  are  about  a mile  from 
the  station,  on  the  east  side,  and  at  the  springs  the  first  baths  were  estab- 
lished, curiously  named  after  John  the  Baptist  and  the  Apostles,  with  their 
names  written  over  the  doors,  with  the  figures  indicating  the  temperature  of 


159 


each  particular  Apostle.  The  ditch,  which  is  the  waste-way  from  the  springs, 
runs  alongside  the  avenue,  shaded  by  immense  trees,  crossing  the  track  at 
the  station.  Here  were  the  scenes  that  have  been  talked  of,  and  written  of, 
where  the  people  came  for  their  baths,  and  for  their  laundry,  at  one  and  the 
same  time.  At  first  thought,  the  idea  does  not  seem  effulgent  with  dazzling 
features — but  the  one  of  economy,  both  as  to  time  and  clothes,  and  the  at- 
tendant laundry  expenses,  should  not  be  overlooked.  One  need  have  but  one 
suit,  that  can  be  washed  and  dried  while  you  wait,  the  intervening  time  oc- 
cupied by  your  own  bath,  with  the  added  experience  of  every  man  his  own 
washerwoman  being  fully  realized. 

The  scene  along  this  hot-water  canal,  and  at  the  pools,  was  an  interesting 
one — not  always  on  the  bills,  as  the  theater  people  say.  Looking  up  from 
the  station  platform  there  was  a long  line  of  busy  beings  striving  at  a com- 
pliance with  nature's  first  law.  They  were  in  all  stages  of  beginning,  con- 
tinuing or  completing  the  ablution  or  the  laundry,  with,  as  a writer  says,  no 


THE  PORTALES,  AGUAS  CALIENTES. 

other  protection  than  the. blue  sky  of  heaven  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico; 
babies  tied  to  a string  paddled  in  the  warm  waters,  while  their  mothers  tended 
strictly  to  the  business  in  hand.  The  picture  was  brightened  by  the  many- 
colored  garments  hung  out  to  dry  on  the  bushes  that  hereabouts  did  duty 
as  clothes  lines.  These  things  have  been  changed  somewhat,  bath  houses 
have  been  erected  for  the  free  use  of  the  public,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
Paseo  very  near  the  station,  one  for  women,  the  other  for  men,  so  the  bathers 
that  were  along  the  waste  ditches  have  gone  into  these  bath  houses,  or  the 
fields  beyond.  A wide  avenue  with  great  overhanging  trees  affords  a shady 
drive,  or  horse-car  ride,  from  the  main  plaza  and  the  railway  station  to  the 
baths  at  the  head  waters,  or  for  a fine  walk  if  you  are  equal  to  one  of  a mile. 
There  are  other  baths  in  the  city,  near  the  station  and  near  the  plaza.  These, 
with  the  delightful  climate  of  Aguas  Calientes,  render  the  stop  an  attractive 
one. 


160 


Like  the  old-fashioned  towns  of  Tennessee,  these  in  Mexico  have  a public 
square,  here  called  the  plaza.  The  one  at  Aguas  Calientes  is  beautiful  with 
its  trees  and  flowers,  winding  walks,  the  towering  monument  over  all ; in  the 
center  is  the  band-stand,  where  sweet  music  entertains  the  people  in  the 
evenings,  and,  on  the  four  sides,  fine  buildings  make  this  plaza  a very  at- 
tractive one.  The  monument  seems  unfinished,  but  it  is,  or  was.  Originally 
it  was  surmounted  by  a statue  of  Ferdinand  VII,  erected  to  commemorate 
the  founding  of  the  city,  October  22,  1575.  The  Mexicans  were  wont  to  throw 
things  down  in  times  of  war,  even  if  they  set  them  up  again  when  the  war 
was  over.  The  statue  was  thrown  down,  but  never  replaced,  and  the  monu- 
ment is  now  utilized  to  perpetuate  other  data  in  the  city’s  history.  There  are 
a dozen  other  plazas,  including  the  very  beautiful  Jardin  de  San  Marcos  and 
the  Tivoli  de  Hidalgo,  reached  by  the  horse  cars  after  a very  short  ride. 
Near  the  main  plaza,  two  squares  north,  are  the  markets,  always  interesting  in 
Mexico,  and  here  especially  so. 

At  any  season  the  visit  to  Aguas  Calientes  may  be  made,  but  during  al- 
ficsta  de  San  Marcos  is  the  best  time  to  see  the  city  in  all  its  glory.  The 
feast  commences  April  23,  and  extends  till  May  10,  when  St.  Mark  takes  pos- 
session of  the  town,  and  all  business  is  given  over  to  merriment  and  turkeys, 
this  season  being  as  disastrous  to  the  latter  as  a November  Thursday  in  ‘‘los 
Estados  UnidosS 

The  chief  product  of  Aguas  Calientes  is  the  “drawn-work” — the  making  of 
which  is  the  sole  occupation  of  a large  percentage  of  the  people,  and  while  not 
engaged  in  its  manufacture  they  are  at  the  station  to  sell  it.  The  finest  linen 
is  drawn  in  the  most  intricate  and  exquisite  designs — the  fame  of  this  work  has 
gone  abroad  and  every  woman  traveler  waits  up  till  she  arrives  at  Aguas. 

Tile  public  buildings  are  very  fine,  indeed.  The  Palacio  de  Gobierno,  State 
House  and  Casa  Municipal  are  on  the  main  plaza,  and  adjoining  it  the  Teatro 
Morelos.  The  Parian  market  is  one  square  north  of  the  plaza.  On  the  Jardin 
de  San  Marcos  is  the  Salon  de  Exposition  and  Scientific  Institute.  The 
parish  church  has  some  very  fine  pictures,  painted  by  Andreas  Lopez,  in  1797, 
depicting  the  life  of  San  Juan  Nepomuceno.  In  the  other  churches  are  some 
really  fine  pictures,  notably,  an  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Jose  de  Alzibar, 
in  1775,  and  another  canvas  of  his  is  in  the  Church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios. 
Perhaps  the  best  paintings  of  the  Stations  of  the  Cross,  in  Mexico,  are  at 
the  Church  of  the  Encino,  also  by  Andreas  Lopez.  In  the  Church  of  San 
Francisco  are  some  good  pictures,  one  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of 
St.  Francis,  by  Juan  Correa,  painted  in  1681,  another  is  the  Vision  of  St. 
Anthony  of  Padua.  Under  the  church  are  the  bones  and  bodies  of  mum- 
mied monks.  Aguas  Calientes  is  an  important  city  of  36,000  people,  located 
on  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  364  miles  from  the  City 
of  Mexico,  six  miles  from  the  junction  of  the  Tampico  Division  at  Chicalote ; 
the  railway  company  has  extensive  shops  and  an  employes’  hospital  at  Aguas 
Calientes. 

A tti  e c a.  On  the  Western  Division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway, 

Ah-may'-cah  55  miles  west  of  Guadalajara,  is  in  the  center  of  a rich  mining 

and  agricultural  district. 

Attiecameca,  One  may  go  out  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  the  foot  of 
Ah-may'-ca-may'-ca  the  great  volcanoes  before  breakfast,  but  not  as  the  newly 
arrived  tourist  at  Denver  did,  when  he  thought,  from  the  marvelously  clear 
atrnosphere,  that  he  would  walk  out  to  Pike’s  Peak.  You  may  take  an  early 
train  from  San  Lazaro  station  in  the  city,  and  arrive  at  Amecameca  in  less 
than  two  hours. 


161 


Amecameca  lies  on  the  plain  just  at  the  foot  of  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtacci- 
hnatl,  and  for  the  near  views  and  the  ascent  one  must  go  to  Ameca — the  name 
has  recently  been  shorn  of  one  “meca.”  The  train  rounds  a curve  and  comes 
to  a stop  just  at  the  foot  of  the  Sacred  Mountain.  A wooded  hill  lies  on  the 
right  of  the  track,  and  just  below  the  station  is  a stone-paved  causeway,  marked 
at  intervals  by  the  stations  of  the  cross ; it  leads  to  the  shrine  on  the  top 
of  the  Sacro  Monte.  This  causeway  was  built  for  the  processions  that,  during 
the  fiestas  of  Holy  Week,  pass  between  the  shrine  and  the  parish  church. 
Once  upon  a time,  very  many  years  ago,  there  lived  on  this  mountain  a 
good,  kind  old  man.  He  lived  in  a cave  and  was  so  gentle  and  kind  that 
the  birds  came  and  sang  to  him,  and  the  little  animals  of  the  forest  played 
about  his  door,  and  followed  close  on  his  footsteps.  He  was  Fray  Martin 
de  Valencia,  one  of  the  “Twelve  Apostles”  of  Mexico,  sent  by  Pope  Adrian 
VI  as  a missionary  to  the  Indians,  with  the  title  of  Vicar  of  New  Spain. 


STONE  STAIRWAY,  SACRO  MONTE. 

The  Fray  was  greatly  beloved  by  the  people,  and  when  he  died  and  was 
buried  at  Tlalmanalco,  it  is  said  that  the  Indians  secretly  removed  and  buried 
him  in  the  cave  where  he  had  lived  so  happily.  The  cave  is  now  a part  of 
the  shrine,  in  which  is  kept  a very  curious  image  of  the  Christ  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre.  It  is  made  of  some  very  light  material,  probably  the  pith  of  the 
alder,  or  some  like  porous  substance,  that,  although  it  is  life-size,  weighs 
only  about  two  or  three  pounds.  The  legend  goes,  that  some  men  were  con- 
veying, on  the  backs  of  mules,  images  intended  for  another  part  of  the  coun- 
try, and  that  one  of  the  mules  strayed  from  the  train,  made  his  way  up  the 


162 


side  of  the  mountain,  stopped  in  the  entrance  of  the  cave,  and  waited  there. 
This  was  taken  as  a token  that  the  image  was  to  abide  there;  it  was  placed 
in  the  cave  and  has  remained  there  till  this  day — except,  that  on  Ash  Wednes- 
day of  each  year  it  is  carried,  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony,  from  the  shrine 
to  the  parish  church,  where  it  remains  till  Good  Friday,  and  is  then  returned 
to  its  abiding  place. 

This  is  the  great  fiesta  of  the  year  at  Amecameca.  The  pilgrims  come  from 


POPOCATEPETL  FROM  AMECAMECA. 


all  parts  of  the  country  to  see  what  we  call  the  Passion  Play,  just  previous  to 
the  return  of  the  image  to  the  shrine.  The  enaction  of  the  Crucifixion,  by 
Indian  actors,  is  curiously  interesting,  and  when,  after  nightfall  on  Good 
Friday,  the  image  starts  on  its  return,  a great  multitude  with  torches  follow 
up  the  stone  steps  of  the  causeway,  some  of  the  more  devout  crawling  on 
their  knees  up  the  rough  hillside,  a scene  wondrously  weird  and  altogether 
indescribable;  you  look  upon  it  with  awe,  and  it  is  well  that  this  is  so,  as 
any  indication  of  contempt  or  amusement  might  be  resented. 


163 


On  the  crest  of  the  hill  of  Sacro  Monte  is  the  shrine  of  Guadalupe,  where 
there  are  some  fairly  good  pictures  of  the  saints  and  of  the  Virgin  of  the 
Castle,  by  Villalobos.  In  the  hard  clay  of  the  mountain  are  seen  crude  rep- 
resentations of  the  cross,  and  on  the  trees  and  bushes  are  little  pieces  of 
the  dress  of  the  pilgrims,  hairs  from  their  heads,  or  some  other  token  of 
their  devotion  left  there  for  buena  fortuna.  From  the  crest  of  the  hill  at 
Guadalupe  is  the  finest  view  of  the  volcanoes,  the  plain  and  city.  The  parish 


IXTACCIHUATL  FROM  SACRO  MONTE. 

church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Asuncion  and  San  Sebastian  is  on  the  plaza 
and  near  the  railway  station,  founded  by  the  Dominicans,  in  1547.  It  is  quite 
an  extensive  building,  with  a mutilated  figure  of  San  Sebastian  over  the  en- 
trance, said  mutilation  resulting  from  the  earthquake  of  1884,  which  also 
destroyed  the  tower  of  San  Juan  and  furnished  material  for  the  building  of 
the  Casa  Municipal,  on  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Adjoining  the  church  is  an  abandoned  chapel,  and  between  them  an  open 
court  filled  with  old  sepulchres,  as  is  the  church  yard.  Over  the  door  of  this 


164 


Capilla  de  la  Santa  Escuela  is  a glazed  tile,  with  an  inscription  to  Yturbide, 
the  liberator,  asking  the  prayers  of  the  people  for  the  repose  of  his  soul. 
In  the  eastern  part  of  the  town  is  the  little  chapel  of  the  Rosario,  with  some 
excellently  carved  doors,  altars  and  images  of  Santa  Ana  and  San  Jose. 

To  ascend  the  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  you  must  come  to  Amecameca. 
The  ascent  is  attended  with  more  fatigue  than  danger.  It  takes  three  days 
to  accomplish  it;  the  first  is  going  from  the  Amecameca  to  the  rancho  of 
the  owners  of  the  mountain;  the  second  from  the  rancho  to  the  crater  and 
return;  and  the  third  by  the  return  to  the  plain.  Permission  must  be  ob- 
tained frorn  the  owner  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  guides  at  Amecameca,  good 
warm  clothing  and  a plentiful  supply  for  the  inner  man  must  be  taken  along. 
The  ascent  is  slow,  as  the  guides  must  go  ahead  with  ropes,  but  the  descent 
takes  less  time;  you  sit  down  on  a mat  of  rushes  and  w-h-s-h-t!  you  are  back 
at  the  rancho — ^^at  least  that’s  the  way  the  sulphur  miners  in  the  crater  go 
and  return  from  work. 

You  may  have  the  grandest  view  of  the  world,  and  a toboggan  slide 
which,  if  it  ends  in  your  favor,  you  will  never  forget,  and  if  it  ends  ad- 
versely for  you,  your  friends  will  remember  it,  and  you  will  have  the  highest 
and  whitest  monument  on  earth  for  them  to  point  to;  you  would  gain  a 
monument  which  might  not  be  accorded  you  if  you  had  not  made  tlie  as- 
cent, but  really  there  is  more  of  discomfort  than  danger. 

Amecameca  is  on  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  thirty-five  miles  from  the 
City  of  Mexico. 

There  are  no  horse  cars  or  carriages  and  none  are  needed;  all  that  is 
here  to  be  seen  may  be  reached  on  foot,  with  no  tiring  distances. 

Catorce.  Nearly  every  town  in  Mexico  has  a name  that  may  be  trans- 
Kah-tor'-se©  lated  to  mean  something.  Catorce  means,  in  the  Spanish 
language,  fourteen.  It  is  a mining  town;  the  mines  were  discovered  by  a 
band  of  bandits,  fourteen  in  number,  and  for  want  of  a better  name  it  was 
called  the  Real  de  Catorce.  Silver  was  discovered  here  about  the  year  1780, 
and  the  district  at  once  took  rank  among  the  most  important  in  Mexico. 
Ore  of  fabulous  richness  was  found,  and  the  records  show  that  for  more 
than  thirty  years,  commencing  with  1790,  the  value  of  the  output  amounted 
to  over  three  million  dollars  annually.  Here  are  hundreds  of  mines  and  miles 
of  shafting  and  tunneling.  The  drainage  tunnel  of  one  mine  alone,  the  San 
Agustin,  extends  into  the  mountain  for  more  than  a mile  and  a half,  and 
was  excavated  at  a cost  of  a million  and  a half  dollars.  For  its  entire  length 
a tramway  has  been  constructed  which  is  operated  by  mule  power.  Catorce 
should  be  one  of  the  very  interesting  places  in  Mexico  to  the  tourist.  Here 
are  found  the  customs  of  Mexico  in  their  purity,  unaffected  by  the  influence 
of  the  stranger.  Difficult  of  access,  the  town  can  only  be  reached  by  horse- 
back, or  on  foot.  The  ride  up  the  mountains  to  the  town  is  something,  once 
accomplished,  always  to  be  remembered,  partly  from  its  element  of  personal 
peril,  but  more  because  of  the  beauty  of  the  landscape  encountered  at  every 
turn.  Glancing  down  as  you  near  your  journey’s  end,  you  catch  the  gleam 
of  the  white  walls  of  the  town  of  Los  Catorce  outlined  against  the  green 
of  the  mountain  side.  Thousands  of  feet  below  shimmer  the  waters  of  a 
mountain  stream.  The  shifting  coloring  of  the  mountains,  as  light  and  shade 
chase  each  other  over  their  ragged  expanse,  the  browns  and  greens  of  the 
valley  far  below,  and  the  hills  in  the  hazy  distance,  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 
The  Real  de  Catorce  is  built  on  the  side  of  a ravine  near  the  top  of  the 
range,  and  has  a varying  population  of  from  8,000  to  22,000,  as  the  mines 
are  paying  poorly  or  well.  Here  are  found  all  varieties  of  silver  ore,  from 
carbonate  to  refractory  ore,  assaying  $15,000  to  the  ton.  Catorce  has  a fine 


165 


CATORCE. 

Campeche.  The  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name  is  on  the 
Cam-pay-che  west  shore  of  the  peninsula  of  Yucatan,  and  the  State 
of  Campeche  was  once  a province  of  Yucatan.  The  wide  Bay  of  Cam- 
peche extends  from  Cape  Palma  across  to  Vera  Cruz,  with  scarcely  a good 
harbor  on  its  long  shore  line;  the  open  roadstead  at  Campeche  where  the  San 
Francisco  River  empties  is  only  ten  to  twelve  feet  deep,  six  miles  from  shore. 
Campeche  was  founded  by  the  Spanish  about  1550  and  soon  came  to  be  a 
walled  city  as  a protection  against  privateers  and  buccaneers  that  infested 
these  shores  in  the  early  days,  and  the  city  was  three  times  looted  within 
twenty-six  years. 

The  site  of  the  city  has  been  twice  changed,  but  it  is  probably  perma- 
nently located  now  over  the  old  Maya,  underground  chambers  dug  out  for 
what  no  one  knows,  except  the  long  dead  Mayas. 

The  Plaza  de  I4  Jpdependepcia  is  a picturesque  place  in  the  city’s  center, 


church,  richly  decorated,  and  a pretty  plaza,  the  only  level  spot  in  the  place. 
To  use  a railroad  phrase,  it  is  a combination  of  a cut  and  a fill,  so  that  to 
tumble  into  it  on  one  side  or  out  on  the  other  would  be  extremely  disastrous. 
The  streets  are  neatly  paved,  and  run  up  and  down  hill,  many  of  them  at  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 

The  story  of  the  wheels  or,  rather,  the  no-wheels,  is  a true  one,  literally, 
with  the  single  exception  in  the  conveying  (was  about  to  say  “carting,”  but 
conveying  is  better),  a carriage  on  burros  to  the  city  by  a rich  mine  owner, 
but  was  abandoned;  the  wheels  would  roll  one  way  easily  enough,  but  it  was 
difficult  to  get  back  to  the  starting  point,  and  the  innovation  of  wheels  at 
Catorce  was  not  accomplished. 

Catorce  may  be  reached  by  horses  or  burro-back  from  the  station  of  the 
same  name,  on  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  471  miles  from  the  City  of 
Mexico,  or  from  Vanegas  by  a branch  road  that  runs  to  the  city. 


166 


where  the  band  plays  in  the  evening  and  the  people  parade  under  the  shade  of 
tropical  trees. 


In  the  interior  not  far  from  Campeche  are  some  remains  of  ancient  temples, 
or  palaces,  not  unlike  those  of  Uxmal  in  Yucatan,  though  not  so  extensive. 

A railroad  from  Campeche  to  Merida  was  completed  and  opened  for  traffic 
in  July,  1898,  but  there  is  as  yet  no  connection  with  the  interior  system  of  the 
Republic,  and  Campeche  must  be  reached  by  ships  plying  the  waters  of  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Celaya.  It  was  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago  that  the  fame  of  the 

See-li'-ya  beautiful  Laja  Valley  came  to  the  ears  of  the  Spanish  king, 
and  through  his  Viceroy,  Don  Martin  Enriquez  de  Alamanza,  a company  of 
sixteen  married 
men  and  their 
wives,  and  seven- 
teen young  bach- 


elors, was 
sent  north 
to  spy  cut 
the  land 
and  to  build  a 

town  in  the  val- 
ley. Just  why 
this  particular 
combination  o f 
married  men  and 
^ bachel  o r s was 

chosen,  probably  ^ only  Don  Martin 

ever  knew,  and  the  chronicler  sayeth 

not.  By  these  the  city  of  Celaya  was 

founded,  October  on  guard.  12th,  1570,  under 

the  name  of  Zelaya,  ^ which,  in  the  Bis- 

cayan tongue,  means  “level  land,’’  but  it  was  not  until  nearly  a hundred  years 
later,  October  20th,  1655,  that  Philip  IV  decreed  it  a city,  and  not  till  three 
years  later  that  the  citizens  heard  of  their  metropolitan  good  fortune. 

Since  its  founding  Celaya  has  not  figured  greatly  in  the  country’s  his- 
tory. Built  in  a peaceful  valley,  its  ways  have  been  the  ways  of  peace,  and, 
although  located  on  the  main  highways  of  the  country,  the  city  has  escaped 
the  rigors,  and  I doubt  very  much  if  its  people  heard  much  more  than  the 
rumors  of  wars.  If  you  come  from  the  north  or  the  south,  the  east  or  the 
west,  you  may  see  the  towers  of  Celaya  from  afar  off,  across  the  broad  plains, 
as  you  may  see  a ship  coming  from  sea;  as  the  sails  are  seen  first,  the  rounded 
domes  come  to  view  above  the  trees,  the  towers  of  the  Church  of  Our  Lady 
of  Carmen  or  of  San  Agustin.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  in  this  land  of 


167 


churches,  is  the  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmen  in  Celaya.  It  is  in  form  a 
Latin  cross,  220  feet  long  and  fifty-five  feet  wide,  by  sixty-nine  feet  high.  Not 
an  old  church,  as  churches  go  in  Mexico,  this  one  was  commenced  in  1803, 
and  completed  in  1807.  The  magnificent  adornment,  the  frescoes  and  the  su- 
perb paintings  were  by  Eduardo  Tresguerras,  a native  of  Celaya,  and  an 
artist  of  renown,  combining  a superior  knowledge  of  painting,  sculpture  and 
architecture  in  all  his  work.  One  of  his  famous  paintings  is  of  Our  Lady  of 
Carmen,  in  the  chapel  of  the  Last  Judgment,  where  are,  also,  some  portraits 
of  himself  as  a young  and  old  man.  Another  notable  picture  is  the  Triumph 
of  Mary,  by  Nicolas  Rodriguez  Juarez.  This  picture  is  much  older  than  the 
others,  having  been  painted  in  1695;  it  was  rescued  from  the  fire  which  de- 
stroyed the  old  Church  of  Carmen. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  in  the  midst  of  a group  of  churches  and 
chapels,  was  founded  in  1570.  Only  the 
building  remain;  the  other 
parts  were  erected  in  1715,  and 
the  altars,  the  exquisite  work 
of  Tresguerras,  were  added  in 
the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  The  parish  church  and 
Tercer  Orden  are  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan group,  both  built  in  the 
early  part  of  the  seventeenth 
century.  In  the  little  chapel  of 
Dolores  is  the  tomb  of  this 
great  artist  architect,  built,  also, 
by  his  hand.  The  Church  of 
San  Agustin,  a short  distance 
from  the  San  Franciscan  group, 
was  built  in  1603-10;  the  tower 
is  by  Tresguerras.  This  won- 
derful man,  whose  handiwork  is 
in  every  Celayan  church,  with 

such  lines  of  exquisite  art,  was  born  in  Celaya,  May  13,  1765,  and  died  there 
August  3,  1833.  He  left,  in  his  own  work,  this  Michael  Angelo  of  Mexico, 
such  monuments  as  might  never  have  been  erected  to  his  fragrant  memory. 

Celaya,  in  the  midst  of  a most  fertile  agricultural  district,  is  also  a manu- 
facturing city  of  carpets  and  woolens,  calicoes,  rebosos,  soaps  and  dulces;  the 
dulces  of  Celaya  are  famous  the  country  over.  Dulces  are  sweet-meats,  made 
from  fruits  and  from  milk;  what  bon-bons  are  to  the  French  and  candies  are  to 
the  American  sweet-tooth,  the  dulces  are  to  the  Mexican,  and  Celaya  is  where 
they  make  them  to  the  queen’s  taste,  so  to  speak.  The  sale  of  dulces  is  not 
confined  to  dulceria.  The  populace  meet  you  at  the  train  with  boxes  of 
dulces,  as  those  of  the  surrounding  country  bring  strawberries  and  opals 
to  the  passing  trains,  and  lie  in  wait  for  the  unsuspecting  traveler — literally  lie 
in  wait,  for  no  matter  what  the  hour  of  arrival  may  be,  the  venders  are  there. 
They  lie  in  their  beds  on  the  roadside  and  wait  for  the  trains.  They  may  not  be 
officially  notified  of  a change  of  schedule  or  of  a delayed  train,  but  that 
doesn’t  make  any  difference;  they  know  it  has  to  come  some  time  and  hav- 
ing nothing  else  to  do,  they  just  wait.  Naturally  disgusted  by  these  waits, 
the  prices  when  the  train  stops  are  bullish,  but  the  bears  get  the  best  of  it 
before  it  leaves,  and  when  the  conductor  cries  ^*‘vamanos!''*  you  can  buy  the 
entire  visible  supply  for  a quarter.  The  train  is  besieged  by  the  eager  venders 
crying  their  wares:  ^‘Cajas!  Cajas!"*^  (Cah — has)  meaning  boxes  of  dulces. 


108 


The  theater,  the 
portales,  the  baths 
and  the  markets  are 
to  be  visited,  and,  al- 
together, Celaya  is 
one  of  the  places 
where  the  lover  of 
the  beautiful  will 
wish  to  linger.  The 
city,  in  the  State  of 
Guanajuato,  is  locat- 
ed, commercially,  to 
great  advantage,  at 
the  crossing  of  the 
Mexican  Central  and 
Mexican  National 
Railways,  182  miles 
from  the  City  of 
Mexico.  Horse  cars 
run  from  both  sta- 
tions to  the  main 
plaza  in  the  center  of 
the  city,  and  they  are 
far  more  comfortable 
than  the  hacks  that 
rumble  over  the  stony 
streets. 

Chihuahua. 

Che-wow'-wa 

Chihuahua  is  an 
old  city,  as  mbst 
Mexican  cities  are ; it 
was  founded  in  1539, 
by  Diego  de  Ybarra. 
The  ancient  name 
was  Taraumara,  later 
San  Felipe  el  Real, 
and  then  Chihuahua, 
meaning  a “place 
where  things  are 
made,”  and  not,  par- 
ticularly, a place  of 
small  dogs,  as  popu- 
larly supposed  in  the 
average  tourist  idea, 
though  the  pronunci- 
ation of  the  latter  syl- 
lables might  indicate 
that. 

The  pronouncing  of 
Mexican  names  seems 
an  almost  insur- 
mountable difficulty  at 


169 


first,  but  the  newest  traveler  soon  grows  familiar  with  them,  and  rolls  them 
off  as  glibly  as  a native,  and  in  a little  while  begins  to  tell  how  he  used  to 
pronounce  Chihuahua  and  Jimenez — just  as  they  are  spelled — but  now  can  say 
Che-wow-wa,  in  a tone  of  voice  that  would  make  a small  dog,  with  a soft 
spot  in  its  head,  prick  up  its  ears,  as  at  a sound  from  home. 

The  fame  of  the  Chihuahua  dogs  has  gone  abroad  throughout  the  land, 
and  the  native  has  bulled  the  market  accordingly;  the  demand  largely  ex- 
ceeds the  supply.  The  dogs  are  noted,  primarily,  for  their  diminutive  size, 
sharpness  of  nose  and  length  of  toe  nails;  but  if  they  possess  any  further  at- 
tribute, the  fact  has  not  been  reported.  It  has  been  suggested  that  the  soft 
place  on  the  head  of  the  genuine  article  has  been  left  for  an  after  injection 
of  brains.  I speak  thus,  firstly,  of  dogs,  because  it  is  probable  that  the  first 
man  to  greet  you,  when  you  get  off  the  train  at  Chihuahua,  will  have  one  under 
his  arm.  It  is  a small  dog  that  the  man  has  under  his  arm,  as  it  is  proper 
for  a Chihuahua  dog  to  be,  but  if  you  buy  you  may  live  to  wonder  how  large 
a small  dog  may  grow  to  be. 


AQUEDUCT  AT  CHIHUAHUA. 


The  train,  as  it  comes  from  the  north,  or  the  south,  comes  from  behind 
high,  intervening  hills,  so  there  is  no  view  of  the  city  until  it  stops  at  the 
station.  The  city  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  track,  and,  as  the  train  passes 
over  the  barranca,  between  the  shops  and  the  station,  there  is  a good  view 
of  the  town,  with  the  high  towers  of  the  Church  of  San  Francisco  standing 
out  against  the  western  sky. 

Few  Mexican  towns  are  located  conveniently  near  the  railway  stations, 
and  Chihuahua  is  not  an  exception;  street  cars  there  are,  and  hacks,  for  all 
parts  of  the  city.  The  car  line  from  the  station  passes  the  Mint,  State  Capitol, 
Hidalgo  Statue,  the  plaza.  Church  of  San  Francisco,  the  market,  the  hotels 
and  on  through  the  old  paseo  to  the  Santuario  de  Guadalupe;  the  fare,  six 
cents  takes  you  to  nearly  all  the  places  of  interest.  A carriage  must  be  taken 
for  the  new  paseo  and  alameda,  and  the  fine  views  from  the  hill  in  the  south 
part  of  the  city,  for  which  the  prices  vary  according  to  the  style  of  turnout, 
from  one  to  two  dollars  an  hour,  with  a twenty-five  cent  fare  for  short  dis- 
tance rides,  as  from  the  station  to  the  plaza. 

Being  p^^r  the  border^  Chjhuahua  is  a much  Americanized  town,  and  there 


170 


are  many  fine  buildings,  of  a semi-Mexican-American 
style  of  architecture,  on  the  principal  streets,  around  the 
plaza  and  along  the  new  paseo  and  alameda.  The  State 
Palace  is  a handsome  edifice,  on  the  street  leading  from 
the  station;  in  the  rear  is  a plazuela,  with  a fine  monu- 
ment and  statue  of  Hidalgo  on  the  spot 
where  he  was  executed,  July  31,  1811, 
and  his  compatriots,  Allende,  Aldama 
-- — ■liffri.iiif-  -1  Jiminez,  on  June  26,  of  the  same 

n year.  Just  opposite  the  palace,  in  an  old 

building,  formerly  the  Hospital  Real, 
is  the  Mint;  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  square  tower,  over  the  entrance, 
the  patriots  were  confined  previous  to  their  execution.  The  manufacture 
of  money  in  the  mint  is  not  as  crude  as  the  old  house  seems  to  be;  the 
dollars  drop  from  the  stamps,  sixty  every  minute,  while  the  wheels  turn.  The 
silver  for  the  most  part  comes  from  the  mine  of  Santa  Eulalia,  near  the  city, 
one  of  the  richest  in  the  country,  and  one  of  the  oldest.  A tribute,  levied 
by  the  clergy,  in  the  early  days,  of  twenty-five  cents  on  each  pound  of  silver, 
produced  $800,000  for  the  building  of  the  parish  church. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  also  called  the  Cathedral,  is  the  parish 
church  that  cost  so  much  money  and  time  to  build.  It  was  commenced  in 
1717,  and  not  completed  till  1789.  It  is  said  that  an  inclined  plane  of  earth  was 
raised  against  the  walls  during  their  building,  on  which  the  material  was  carried 
up,  and  by  the  time  the  towers  were  finished  the  plane  extended  beyond  the 
plaza.  The  church  faces  the  plaza  and  occupies  such  a position  that  the 
towers  can  be  seen  from  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  facade  is  elaborately  orna- 
mented; there  are  thirteen  statues  of  San  Francisco  and  the  Twelve  Apostles, 
and  under  the  arches  of  the  dome  are  basso-relievos  of  the  fathers  of  the  church. 
A broken  bell  is  shown  in  one  of  the  towers,  as  having  been  pierced  by  a 
cannon  ball  fired  by  the  French  during  the  bombardment  of  the  city  in  1866. 
The  church  of  the  Compania  was  founded  by  the  Jesuits,  under  Don  Manuel 
de  Santa  Cruz,  in  1717.  Another  church  is  that  of  San  Felipe  Neri,  also  the 
Santuario  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe,  at  the  extreme  west  side  of  the 
city,  just  beyond  the  terminus  of  the  horse-car  line,  at  the  end  of  the  old 
paseo,  where  there  is  a remarkable  image  of  San  Ygnacio  Loyola. 

Just  beyond  the  sanctuary  of  Guadalupe,  beyond  the  top  of  the  hill,  is  the 
old  aqueduct  of  the  city’s  water  supply,  a continuous  line  of  stone  arches, 
about  four  miles  long,  built  a hundred  years  ago,  but  in  a fine  state  of  pres- 
ervation. Near  here  are,  also,  the  principal  baths  of  the  city.  The  old  paseo, 
or  alameda,  is  much  neglected,  but  the  new  one  is  too  modern  to  be  par- 
ticularly interesting,  except  for  the  fine  views  of  the  city  and  the  surround- 
ing mountains;  El  Coronel  was  so  called  from  the  execution  of  a revolutionary 
colonel  at  that  point. 

Chihuahua  was  for  years  the  market  for  all  northern  Mexico,  the  trading 
trains  traveling  between  that  city  and  Santa  Fe.  Col.  Doniphan,  of  the  United 
States  army,  occupied  the  city  in  1847,  and  afterwards  made  the  famous  march 
to  the  south  and  joined  Gen.  Taylor. 

Chihuahua,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Chihuahua,  is  on  the  Mexican  Central 
Railway,  999  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Chilpaiicitigo.  The  Capital  of  the  State  of  Guerrero  is  one  of  the 

Chil-pan-seen'-go  oldest  Spanish  settlements  in  the  southern  part  of 

Mexico,  so  far  in  the  interior,  shut  in  by  ranges  of  high  mountains  so  that 
it  was  for  years  of  only  local  importance.  But  it  is  noted  in  the  history  of 
the  country  as  the  place  of  assembly  of  the  first  Congress  of  Mexico,  Sep- 


171 


tember  13th,  1813,  three  years  after  the  raising  of  the  standard  of  the  Republic 
by  Hidalgo  and  two  years  after  his  death.  Chilpancingo  is  in  the  center  of 
an  unexplored  district  abounding  in  prehistoric  ruins  and  wonderful  caverns 
reached  by  the  Cuernavaca  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway. 

Coatzacoalcos.  Is  important  as  the  eastern  terminal  of  the  Tehuan- 
Ko-at-zah-co-al'-cose  tepee  Railway  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name  and  destined  to  be  what  it  was  in  Cortez  time  the  best  harbor  on  the 
Gulf  coast. 

Colima.  The  little  state  of  Colima,  of  which  Colima  is  the  capital, 
Col-e'-mah  is  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  Republic  with  its  chief  seaport 
at  Manzanillo,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a railway  of  twenty-eight  miles 
in  length.  Near  by  is  the  volcano  of  Colima,  about  12,000  feet  high,  one  of 


MEXICAN  RAILWAY  STATION,  CORDOBA. 

the  few  active  volcanoes  in  Mexico,  having  been  in  eruption  more  or  less 
since  1869.  Under  the  name  of  Santiago  de  los  Caballeros  Colima  was  founded 
by  Don  Gonzalo  de  Sandobal  under  a decree  of  Philip  II  of  Spain.  Colima 
is  reached  by  rail  from  Manzanillo  on  the  Pacific  or  via  the  Mexican  Central 
from  Guadalajara. 

Cordoba.  To  go  to  Cordoba  means  to  go  to  the  tropics;  indeed,  the 

Cord'-ova  little  city  is  just  on  the  border  of  the  tierra  caliente^  as  the 

Mexicans  call  the  hot  country,  in  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountain  ranges,  with 
an  elevation  that  offers  a comparative  immunity  from  the  malarial  fevers  of 
the  lowlands.  In  fact  the  location  of  the  town  was  made  with  the  idea  of 
a place  of  refuge  from  the  plains  below,  when  it  was  founded,  April  18,  1618, 
under  an  order  from  the  then  viceroy,  Don  Diego  Fernandez  de  Cordoba. 


172 


who  knew  the  fertility  of  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Seco,  and  chose  the  hill  of 
Xitango  as  the  site  of  the  city  to  be  called  by  his  name. 

The  tropical  scenes  have  become  familiar  on  the  ride  hither;  the  train 
stops  at  a station,  under  palm  trees,  and  the  horse-car  ride,  uptown,  is 
through  coffee  groves  and  bananas,  with  gardens  everywhere,  with  every  fruit 
that  ripens  under  the  tropic  sun,  oranges,  lemons,  guavas,  pineapples,  chiri- 
moyas  and  granaditas.  After  this  ride  through  the  woods  and  the  gardens, 
you  come  to  the  narrow  streets,  where  the  low  houses,  roofed  with  red  tiles, 
have  long  projecting  eaves  that  shade  the  narrower  sidewalks — picturesque  to 
a degree.  The  plaza  and  the  market  may  be  something  like  the  other  towns, 
but  there  is  the  tropic  charm  that  the  others  do  not  possess.  Within  a square 
of  the  market  there  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  gardens  in  the  world.  It  is 
a tangled  mass  of  fruits  and  flowers  overhanging  winding  walks,  with  foun- 
tains, here  and  there,  and  pagodas  for  resting  places. 

The  churches  are  San  Antonio,  founded  in  1686,  and  San  Hipolito,  in  1793; 
the  latter  was  also  a convent  and  hospital.  On  the  plaza  is  shown  a house 
where  Maximilian  stopped  over  night  on  his  way  to  the  capital,  and  another 
where  was  signed,  by  Yturbide  and  the  Viceroy  O’Donoju,  the  treaty  acknowl- 
edging the  Independence  of  Mexico. 

Sunday  is  a great  day  in  Cordoba,  when  the  country  folk  come  to  town 
from  Amatlan,  and  other  villages  roundabout,  not  in  silk  attire,  but  in  the 
gaudiest  cotton,  in  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  and  in  the  plumage  of  the 
birds  of  their  primeval  forests;  the  trimmings  are  on  the  whitest  of  white  cot- 
ton— beads  of  coral,  laces  of  their  own  handiwork  and  ornaments  of  silver,  till 
they  are  a sight  to  see. 

Cordoba,  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  is  located  on  the  Mexican  Railway, 
198  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Cuautla.  Long  before  the  train  arrives  at  Cuautla,  the  place  where  the 

Kwout'-la  city  lies  may  be  pointed  out,  but  for  its  surrounding,  and  al- 

most overcovering  of  green  trees,  it  can  not  be  seen,  save  the  white  spot 
of  tower  gleaming  in  the  sunshine.  Down  where  the  sugar  cane  grov/s,  on 
the  southern  slope  of  the  hills  that  are  beyond  the  volcanoes,  is  the  very 
pretty  little  town,  in  the  midst  of  fertile  fields  and  luxuriant  gardens  of  fruits 
and  flowers,  a very  picture  of  tropical  beauty.  In  the  approach  to  the  town 
the  train  backs  in  on  a Y and  comes  to  a stop  in  the  quaintest  railway  station 
imaginable.  To  what  base  uses  may  we  come!  This  railway  station  was 
once  a convent  and  church;  the  tower  and  bells  are  still  there,  and  it  may 
be  that  the  confessional  is  the  ticket  office  and  the  altar  a desk  for  way-bills; 
the  nave  is  a storage-room  for  freights,  and  where  was  the  convent-yard  now 
resounds  with  the  locomotive’s  whistle.  Just  outside  this  church-station  is 
the  prettiest  plaza  imaginable,  with  playing  fountains  of  clear  water  undei 
the  trees  that  shade  the  streets  and  the  park,  where  there  is  a music-stand, 
seats  and  promenades  for  the  people,  and  on  the  opposite  side  a very  good 
hotel  indeed,  not  good  alone  for  Mexico,  but  good  for  a 
j town  of  Cuautla’s  size  anywhere,  with  a garden  of  fruits  that 
will  justify  any  description.  The 
streets  of  Cuautla  run  at  right  angles 
with  low  adobe  houses  on  each  side, 
but  presently  they  merge  into  shady 
lanes,  hedged  with  cactus,  behind 
which  are  thatched  huts  of  reeds  and 
rushes  almost  hidden  by  the  bananas, 
the  orange  and  lemon  trees,  trailing  vines  and  bowers. 
These  are  Cuautla’s  chief  charms,  and  amply  repay  the 


173 


rambles  of  a day’s  visit.  Everywhere  is  running  water,  through  the  streets 
and  roads,  in  the  gardens  and  parks,  along  the  railroad  track  and  through  the 
fields.  These  native  engineers  have  taken  the  river  from  its  bed,  made  its 
waters  run  where  they  willed,  till  the  land  blossoms  as  the  rose. 

A horseback,  or  a ride  by  burros,  may  be  made  to  sulphur  baths,  just  east 
of  the  town,  and  to  the  old  stone  bridge  over  the  Rio  Xuchitengo,  or  to 
the  hacienda  of  Coahuixtla,  either  of  which  is  well  worth  the  ride — the  baths 
of  fine  medicinal  qualities,  the  antiquity  of  the  massive  bridge,  or  the  charm- 
ing novelty  of  hacienda  life  in  the  lowlands. 

Cuautla  was  a city  when  Cortez  came  and  took  possession.  The  date  of 
the  Spanish  city  is  from  1605.  After  the  war  for  Independence  the  city  re- 
ceived the  surname  of  Morelos,  and  is  now  called  Cuautla-Morelos,  in  honor 
of  General  Morelos,  who  so  heroically  defended  it  against  the  Royalist  forces 
under  General  Calleja,  who  laid  siege  February  19,  1812,  and  so  completely 
drew  his  lines  about  the  place  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  in  or  out.  There 
was  more  or  less  fighting  for  nearly  three  months,  till  Morelos  was  forced 
to  evacuate,  which  he  did  effectually,  but  not  until  he  was  starved  out.  It  is 
said  that,  during  the  siege,  food  was  so  scarce  that  cats  were  sold  for  six 
dollars,  and  rats  and  lizards  for  one  and  two  dollars. 

The  parish  Church  of  Santiago  was  founded  in  1605,  and  the  Church  of 
San  Diego  furnishes  the  Interoceanic  with  the  oldest  railway  station  in  the 
world,  dating  from  the  seventeenth  century.  There  are  chapels,  shrines  and 
churches  in  the  town,  of  various  dates  and  names,  but  they  are  not  so  nu- 
merous in  the  lowlands  as  they  are  up  in  the  hill  country. 

The  sugar  industry  may  be  further  investigated  by  a stop  at  the  great 
Hacienda  de  Santa  Ynez,  on  the  line  of  the  railway,  three  miles  west  of  Cuau- 
tla. The  manager  is  an  affable  and  courteous  gentleman,  and  most  hospita- 
ble withal.  Cuautla  is  in  the  State  of  Morelos,  on  the  Interoceanic  Railway, 
eighty-five  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Cuemavaca.  The  scenery  is  wonderfully  grand;  the  ascent  from  the 

Kwer'-na-vaca  valley  of  Mexico  is  with  a winding,  twisting  track  from 
the  plains  to  the  mountain,  and  the  view  looking  back  over  the  cities  of  the 
plain,  the  lakes,  the  volcanoes  and  lesser  mountains  makes  a picture  that 
is  not  easily  described.  The  climb  continues  till  an  altitude  of  10,000  feet 
is  attained,  then  the  descent  commences  and  continues  on  to  Cuernavaca.  The 
grand  views  of  mountain  and  valley  scenery  are  in  endless  variety  and  with- 
out cessation  throughout  the  journey. 

The  old  Indian  name,  Cuauhnahuac,  has  a more  impressive  meaning,  “near 
the  trees,”  than  the  Spanish  word  Cuernavaca,  “cow-horn,”  though  it  is  prob- 
able that  Cuernavaca  is  merely  a corruption  of  Cuauhnahuac.  Some  Spanish 
soldier  heard  the  Indian  name  and  laughing  said,  “Oh,  Cuernavaca,”  and 
the  town  was  named. 

The  high  headland,  covered  with  trees,  between  the  deep  barrancas  would 
seem  to  give  origin  to  the  ancient  name,  anyhow  it  does  give  to  the  town  a 
most  picturesque  and  delightful  location.  The  mountain  streams  have  been 
changed  in  their  courses,  and  through  reservoirs,  sent  through  the  streets 
and  gardens,  till  the  town  is  one  vast  garden  in  itself. 

The  Calle  Nacional  is  the  principal  street,  and  the  Jardin  Benito  Juarez, 
the  Plaza  Mayor,  of  course,  the  plaza  of  the  town.  The  State  Capitol  is  in 
a building  that  was  once  the  palace  of  Cortez,  and  here,  in  this  place,  the 
conqueror  rested  before  his  second  advance  on  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  here 
the  great  adventurer  spent  some  of  the  last  years  of  his  life,  and  when  you 
have  seen  it  you  will  not  wonder  at  his  choice. 

There  were  millionaires  in  those  days,  who  were  only  poor  boys,  just  as 


174 


in  these  clays  and  this  country,  and  Cuernavaca  points  with  pride  to  the  house 
where  Jose  de  la  Borda  lived.  The  native  will  tell  you  of  his  millions  made 
in  mining,  the  amount,  from  forty  to  fifty  millions,  taken  from  mines  at  Tlal- 
pujahua,  Tasco  and  Zacatecas.  You  will  be  shown  the  garden  of  fruits  and 
fiowers,  the  Jardin  de  la  Borda,  with  terraced  slopes,  lakelets,  cascades  and 
fountains  that  cost  a million,  and  it  may  have  cost  more,  for  it  is  very  beau- 
tiful, indeed.  And  the  native  will  tell  you  of  the  big  church  at  Tasco,  fifty 
miles  away,  where  Don  Jose  placed  another  million. 

Before  the  Conquest  of  Mexico  Cuernavaca  was  the  capital  of  the  Tla- 
huicas,  an  independent  tribe,  until  they  were  made  tributary  to  Tenochtitlan 
under  Mocteuczoma  Ilhuicamina  and  during  the  siege  the  province  of  Cuer- 
navaca furnished  reinforcements  to  Montezuma.  While  the  bergantines  were 
being  built  Cortez  made  a reconnoissance  in  the  direction  of  Cuernavaca  and 


JARDIN  DE  LA  BORDA,  CUERNAVACA. 

arrived  in  front  of  the  city  in  April,  1521,  with  a band  of  thirty  cavalry,  300 
infantry  and  a large  body  of  his  Tlaxcalan  allies,  but  a deep  gulch,  the  Bar- 
ranca of  Amanalco,  prevented  their  entrance  to  the  town.  It  was  very  nar- 
row and  the  Spaniards  were  harassed  by  the  shower  of  arrows  from  Tlahuicas 
on  the  other  side  where  they  were  entrenched  and  safe  from  the  fire  of  the 
Spanish. 

Cortez  sent  a detachment  up  and  down  the  Barranca  to  find  a crossing 
but  they  were  unsuccessful.  Finally  a Tlaxcalan  Indian  noticed  two  gigantic 
trees  growing  on  opposite  sides  of  the  gulch  with  their  trunks  inclined  to 
the  center  so  that  the  branches  intertwined  and  formed  a sort  of  suspension 
bridge  over  which  the  Tlaxcalan  quickly  passed  and  was  followed  by  many 
others,  among  whom  was  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo;  and  notwithstanding  the 


175 


heavy  armor  of  the  Spaniards  only  three  fell  down  the  barranca.  The  Tla- 
huicas  were  taken  by  surprise;  they  were  busy  fighting  across  the  Barranca 
and  had  not  noticed  the  enemy  crossing  through  the  branches  of  the  trees, 
and  Cortez,  having  restored  one  of  the  destroyed  bridges,  crossed  his  cav- 
alry and  the  rest  of  the  infantry.  The  Tlahuicas  fled  to  the  mountains,  the 
villages  around  the  city  were  burned  and  the  houses  pillaged.  Soon  the  Tzins 
returned  and  were  brought  trembling  before  Cortez,  who,  satisfied  with  their 
humiliation,  ordered  the  cessation  of  hostilities,  and  took  possession  of  the 


PLAZA,  CUERNAVACA. 

town.  After  the  occupation  of  the  City  of  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  Cortez 
returned  to  Cuernavaca  and  for  a time  made  it  his  home  and  constructed  the 
great  palace  that  is  now  used  as  the  State  Capitol.  Near  the  end  of  January, 
1529,  the  friars  that  were  to  found  the  Convent  of  San  Francisco  came  to 
Cuernavaca;  this  convent  was  afterwards  the  parish  church  and  is  now  the 
Cathedral.  It  is  more  a group  of  churches  and  chapels,  with  connecting  roofs 
and  walls;  the  tower  contains  a clock  that  was  once  in  the  cathedral  of  Se- 
govia, presented  to  Cortez  by  Charles  V of  Spain.  Asuncion  is  the  parish 
church;  the  others  are  San  Pedro,  Tercer  Orden  and  Guadalupe,  the  latter 
built  by  de  la  Borda;  Guadalupe  is  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 


176 


Charles  V.  gave  to  Cuernavaca  the  title  of  Villa,  but  it  was  not  made  a 
city  till  October  14th,  1834;  in  October  and  November,  1855,  here  was  the  seat 
of  government  under  the  Plan  of  Ayutla,  presided  over  by  General  Don  Juan 
Alvarez.  During  the  Empire,  Cuernavaca  was  the  summer  capital,  and  the 
Emperor  Maximilian  had  a pretty  little  home  and  garden  called  “Olindo,” 
and  in  the  Jardin  de  la  Borda  he  spent  the  few  quiet  days  of  his  sojourn  in 
Mexico,  but  his  last  visit  was  cut  short  by  the  rumor  of  a conspiracy  for 
his  assassination  on  the  road  when  he  should  return  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 
The  houses  of  note  are  the  Palace  of  Cortez,  with  the  tradition  that  the  Con- 
queror accomplished  one  of  the  killings  of  one  of  his  wives  here,  but  the 
story  doubtless  grew  out  of  the  drowning  in  the  well  at  Coyoacan.  In  one 
of  the  rooms,  however,  the  patriot  Morelos  was  confined  as  a prisoner  of 
war  en  route  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  The  Palacio  de  Gobierno  is  a new  and 
very  elegant  building.  The  Theatre  Porfirio  Diaz  is  a very  fine  play-house 
containing  also  the  public  library.  The  churches,  schools,  hospitals  and 
other  charitable  institutions  are  worthy  of  note. 

The  whole  country  roundabout  is  full  of  interest,  and  it  will  take  some  days 
and  horses  to  do  the  region  as  it  should  be  done.  There  are  the  waterfalls  in 
the  Tlaltenango,  Amanalco  and  San  Antonio  ravines.  In  the  village  of  San 
Antonio,  reached  over  a good  road,  are  some  potteries  and  a lake  of  great 
beauty;  here  also  is  another  house  of  Cortez,  near  it  a rock  with  some  pre- 
historic carvings.  On  a neighboring  hill  is  a lizard  in  stone,  nearly  nine  feet 
long,  and  about  three  miles  farther  to  the  south  is  the  hill  Quauhtetl — “the 
stone  eagle,”  an  eagle  in  stone  that  measures  three  feet  from  tip  to  tip.  It  is 
eighteen  miles  to  the  ruins  of  Xochicalco,  which  are  intensely  interesting  and 
in  every  way  worth  the  ride.  One  of  the  buildings,  that  may  have  been  a 
temple,  measures  seventy-five  feet  long  by  sixty-eight  feet  wide,  built  of  cut 
stone.  Mr.  Charles  Dudley  Warner  says  the  views  are  most  noble  and  of 
the  Ruins  there  is  nothing  like  them  in  Assyrian  or  Egyptian  work.  Some 
of  the  sugar  plantations  have  old-time  buildings,  erected  two  centuries  or  more 
ago,  notably  on  the  Hacienda  de  Temisco;  another  hacienda  is  that  of  Atla- 
comulco,  where  all  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  may  be  seen  in  the  fields  and 
gardens.  One  of  the  sugar  haciendas  was  erected  by  Cortez  and  bequeathed  by 
him  to  the  Hospital  of  Jesus  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  remains  to  this  day 
the  property  of  that  institution. 

Cuernavaca  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Morelos,  and  is  reached  by  trains 
of  the  Cuernavaca  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Ry.,  fifty  miles  from  the  City 
of  Mexico.  About  seven  miles  away  is  the  primitive  Indian  town  of  Juitepec, 
in  which  is  an  ancient  church  where  a great  feast  is  celebrated  every  year, 
a feast  that  combines  the  rites  of  the  Christian  church  with  pagan  idolatries, 
and  the  dance  of  the  natives  in  front  of  the  church  is  the  same  as  the  dance 
of  the  Aztecs  on  the  terraces  of  the  teocalis. 

Culiacau.  The  capital  of  the  State  of  Sinaloa,  a typical  Mexican  city,  is  on 
Cool-e-ah-kan'  the  river  of  the  same  name,  about  forty  miles  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean  and  175  feet  above  it — connected  with  the  port  of  Altata  by  rail.  The 
Plaza  Mayor  has  on  three  sides  quaint  old  portales  and  on  the  other  the  Ca- 
thedral, and  near  by  is  the  Seminary.  The  government  has  a fine  mint  here 
for  the  coining  of  gold  and  silver  mined  on  the  Pacific  slope.  The  town  was 
founded  by  Nuno  Guzman  in  1532  after  he  had  exhausted  his  material  for 
adventure  in  Guadalajara  and  the  cities  farther  south. 

Durango.  It  may  be  called  an  Iron  City,  to  follow  the  simile  of  the  Silver 
Doo-rang'-o  City  as  applied  to  some  of  the  others  of  Mexico,  though  Durango 
has  of  silver  enough  to  entitle  her  to  some  claim  in  that  direction  also;  her 
best  boast  is  in  the  baser  metal.  Within  the  corporate  limits  of  the  city  of 


177 


Durango  there  is  iron  enough  to  supply  the  world  for  three  hundred  years, 
and  yet,  before  the  railroad  was  completed  to  the  city,  manufactured  with 
wooden  machinery  and  water  power,  the  products  of  the  wonderful  iron 
mountain  of  Durango  sold  for  thirty-five  cents  a pound,  and  if  the  mountain 
could  be  sold  at  that  rate  it  would  exhaust  the  treasures  of  the  universe  to  pay 
for  it;  it  is  almost  solid  iron,  the  ore  averaging  from  75  to  90  per  cent,  of 
pure  metal.  The  iron  mountain  is  just  north  of  the  railway  station,  and  only 
about  half  a mile  distant.  A cavalier  in  Cortez  army,  Sehor  Mercado,  was 
induced  to  come  here  by  the  report  of  a mountain  of  silver,  but  only  found 
iron.  The  mountain  is  called  Cerro  Mercado  in  his  honor. 

Durango  is  a city,  spread  out  on  a plain,  with  its  streets,  for  the  most  part, 
running  at  right 
angles,  with  low,  but 
substantial  buildings 
on  either  side,  with 
patios  filled  with 
flowers  and  foun- 
tains. Here  and 
there  are  pretty  plazas 
and  plazuelas,  with 
other  fountains,  and 
green  trees  galore. 

The  Plaza  Mayor  is 
a garden,  surrounded 
on  its  four  sides  by 
fine  buildings  of  two 
to  three  floors,  the 
State  House  being 
one  of  them,  and  one 
of  the  finest  in  Mex- 
ico; the  others  are 
stores  and  cafes.  In 
the  center  is  the  artis- 
tic pagoda  that  com- 
pares so  favorably 
with  the  prosaic 
‘‘band-stand”  of  the 
United  States.  These 
of  Mexico  are  always 
architecturally  artis- 
tic, and  always  pretty, 
while  ours  are  pain- 
fully and  politically 
plain.  The  walks  are  in  durango. 

paved  and  hedged  about  by  flowering  shrubs,  native  in  name  and  to  the  land 
they  grow  in,  though  there  are  also  roses  and  lilies.  In  this  plaza  the 
people  most  do  congregate  in  the  evenings,  to  promenade  and  to  hear  the 
music  of  the  band.  And  here,  again,  the  Mexican  scores  another  against  us, 
the  music  being  furnished  by  the  Government;  the  bands  are  under  pay  of 
the  people  and  they  must  play  for  the  people;  there  are  stated  days  of  the 
week  for  music,  and  at  least  twice  of  every  week  in  the  year  the  bands 
play.  Here,  in  our  country,  we  must  pay  for  a seat  to  hear  the  Marine  Band, 
or  go  to  the  dress  parade  of  some  regiment  or  battalion  before  we  can  hear 


178 


the  music  we  have  paid  for,  or  if  the  band  is  induced  outside  the  barracks 
it  is  for  an  extra  stipend  that  the  players  are  not  entitled  to. 

Near  the  northwest  corner  of  Plaza  Mayor  is  a pretty  little  plazuela,  that  is 
in  the  courtyard  of  a church  and  ancient  convent,  a most  picturesque  little 
nook  where  only  the  electric  light  is  younger  than  a century  or  two.  Two 
or  three  squares  west  is  the  beautiful  alameda  and  the  paseo,  with  their  great 
big  trees  and  the  picturesque  bridge  across  the  little  rio.  At  the  end  of  the 
paseo,  toward  the  north,  is  the  public  wash  place,  where  there  are  scores  of 
lavanderasio  be  seen  washing  clothes  in  a curiously  arranged  laundry  of  stone 
basins,  through  which  there  is  running  water.  All  of  the  pretty  places  are 
not  in  the  city.  Near  it,  within  two  or  three  leagues,  are  some  of  the  most  de- 
lightful jardins  in  the  world;  these  are  not  public  gardens,  however,  but  the 
property  of  private  citizens,  and  admission  is  only  by  permission. 


PUBLIC  LAUNDRY,  DURANGO. 

Two  squares  east  of  the  main  plaza  is  the  very  interesting  market,  and  all 
in  this  district  are  the  stores  that  in  their  stocks  and  seeming  activity  are  a 
surprise,  but  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  Durango  was  a great  city  for  three 
hundred  years  before  the  railroad  came,  and  was  a market  of  supply  for  a 
very  large  territory  of  interior  country.  There  is  little  to  see  of  the  city  resi- 
dences, except  a glimpse  of  the  patios  through  the  grated  archways  in  the 
high  surrounding  walls,  but  there  is  sufficient  in  this  to  tell  of  their  exceeding 
beauty  of  interior,  whatever  the  uninviting  exterior  may  be.  It  is  thus  of  the 
hotels,  also.  A look  into  these  of  Durango  is  satisfying  as  to  the  comforts 
within;  the  tables,  with  snowy  covers,  are  either  in  the  shaded  patios  or  beneath 
the  arched  and  pillared  portales. 


Three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  the  spot  where  Durango  now  is,  was  4 
ranch,  and  where  now  is  the  corner  of  Calles  Principal  and  Teresas,  was  a large 
tree,  under  which  an  altar  was  built,  and  the  first  mass  was  said.  Afterwards 
a little  church  was  built  at  the  corner  of  Calle  Constitucion  and  Calle  Mayor; 
this  has  been  rebuilt,  but  many  of  the  original  timbers  remain.  The  ranchero 
who  owned  the  lands  gave  lots  to  settlers  to  increase  the  defense  against  the 
Indians.  Later  a mine  was  discovered  on  his  lands,  his  wealth  increased  fabu- 
lously, and  a percentage  of  the  output  was  levied  for  the  building  of  the  Cathe- 
dral. Afterwards  he  built  the  house  now  used  as  the  Governor’s  Palace,  and  the 
adjoining  theatre,  all  of  stone,  and  the  second  theatre  built  in  Mexico.  He 
sent  as  a present  to  the  King  of  Spain  $2,000,000,  asking  permission  to  build 
galleries  and  portales  of  silver  around  his  home.  This  was  refused  as  a privi- 
lege pertaining  to  royalty  only.  He  put  up  porches  of  wood,  but  on  the 
occasion  of  a christening  in  his  family  he  paved  the  street  from  his  house  to 


IRON  MOUNTAIN,  DURANGO. 

the  church  with  silver  bricks.  The  descendants  of  this  Croesus  live  in  Durango 
to-day,  but  they  do  not  use  silver  as  a pavement. 

The  Cathedral  was  commenced  in  the  year  1695,  by  Bishop  Garcia  de 
Legaspi,  and  the  first  public  service  was  held  in  1715,  at  which  time  was  com- 
pleted the  thirteen  arches  and  one  tower.  The  second  tower  and  the  other 
departments  annexed  to  the  temple,  as  they  exist  to-day,  were  not  completed 
until  1844,  under  the  direction  of  Senor  Zubiria.  The  entire  work  is  of  the 
Tuscan  order  of  architecture.  In  the  crypt  are  deposited  the  remains  of  eleven 
of  the  twenty-four  bishops  of  Durango.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  last 
century  a terrible  fire  destroyed  all  the  archives  and  antiquities,  and  the  polit- 
ical revolts  of  1854  to  i860  finished  all  the  books  and  modern  documents.  The 


180 


181 


Church  of  San  Francisco  is  the  oldest  of  all  the  Durango  churches,  the  first 
foundations  having  been  laid,  on  this  spot,  in  1556;  and  in  that  year  was 
established  the  first  Spanish  settlement,  under  Fray  Diego  de  la  Cadena.  This 
first  temple  was  solemnly  blessed  in  1563,  on  the  reception  of  the  mandates  from 
the  Viceroy,  Don  Luis  de  Velasco,  at  the  hands  of  Captain  Alonso  Pacheco. 
The  Church  of  San  Agustin  was  founded  in  1626,  by  the  first  Bishop  of 
Durango,  Fray  Gonzalo  de  Hermosillo,  a religioso  of  the  order  of  San  Agus- 
tin. In  this  church  is  a very  notable  image  of  Jesus,  the  Nazarene,  that  was 
brought  from  Spain  in  1673,  to  which  tradition  attributes  an  infinity  of  miracles. 
Santa  Ana  is  a very  modern  foundation  for  Mexico;  it  was  commenced  in 
1777  and  completed  during  the  episcopacy  of  Don  Francisco  Javier  Olivares 
in  1809.  El  Colegio  was  erected  by  the  Jesuits  in  1684  as  a part  of  the  college 
they  directed  until  1720,  the  year  in  which  was  founded  a seminary  in  the  same 
building.  This  church  opened  to  the  public  in  1776,  when  the  Parroquia  was 
transferred  here  from  the  cathedral.  El  Santuario  de  Guadalupe  was  built  in 
1714  by  the  12th  Bishop  of  Durango,  Don  Pedro  Tapiz;  the  interior  was 
renewed  in  1885.  Analco,  one  of  the  primitive  churches,  was  founded  by  the 
first  Spanish  settlers,  in  1560,  in  the  only  place  inhabited  by  the  Indians  who 
lived  in  this  valley.  The  ruins  of  this  church  were  reconstructed,  in  1862, 
by  Don  Geronimo  Silva.  San  Juan  de  Dios  was  founded  as  a hospital  in 
1770.  On  a high  hill  overlooking  the  city,  and  which  may  be  seen  for  miles 
before  you  reach  the  city,  and  from  every  part  of  it  when  you  arrive  there,  is  the 
old  church  of  Los  Remedios,  a very  ancient  foundation,  said  by  some  to 
antedate  the  Cathedral.  Every  pilgrim  who  will  visit  this  church  on  the  8th 
of  September  of  each  year  subtracts  seven  years  from  his  stay  in  purgatory. 

There  is  nothing  new  in  Durango,  except  the  very  modern  railway  station, 
built  of  stone,  for  use  both  as  a passenger  station  and  residence  of  the  agent. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a pretty  lawn,  shaded  by  young  trees.  Horse  cars  run 
from  the  station  to  the  plaza  and  the  hotels,  and  throughout  the  city,  car- 
riages may  be  hired  for  places  not  reached  by  the  cars.  Durango  is  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  the  same  name,  on  the  main  line  of  Mexican  International 
Railroad,  155  miles  from  Torreon,  the  junction  with  the  Mexican  Central 
Railway,  706  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Gomez  Palacio.  One  of  the  very  newest  towns  in  Mexico,  three  miles  north 
Go-mez  Pah-lah-cio  of  Torreon,  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway.  Noted  for 
its  manufactures,  cotton  industries,  etc.  Electric  cars  run  to  Lerdo  and  to 
Torreon. 

Guadalajara.  Early  in  the  sixteenth  century  an  expedition,  under  the  cruel 
Wahd-tha-la-har'-a  and  treacherous  Nuno  de  Beltran  Guzman,  started  to  the 
northwest,  and  proceeded  as  far  as  the  boundaries  of  the  present  State  of 
Jalisco;  and,  in  the  year  1530,  the  band  under  Juan  de  Onate  founded  a city 
under  the  name  of  Villa  del  Espiritu  Santo  de  Guadalajara,  not,  however,  on 
the  site  of  the  present  city,  and  the  oue  chosen  soon  proved  to  be  undesirable. 
Another,  in  the  Tlalcotlan  Valley,  was  selected,  and  the  settlement  moved 
there.  This  location  was  as  bad  as  the  first,  and,  in  the  absence  of  Guzman, 
who,  on  account  of  his  atrocities,  had  been  recalled  to  Spain,  a third  selection 
was  made,  this  time  by  the  people  themselves,  in  the  beautiful  valley  called  by 
the  Indians  Atemaxac,  and  there  was  founded,  in  1541,  the  present  city  of 
Guadalajara,  which  has  become  the  cleanest,  brightest,  and  most  delightful 
city  in  all  the  regions  roundabout.  There  is  always  a desire  on  the  part  of 
the  traveler  to  proceed  to  the  Capital,  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  whatever 
may  retard  his  going  there  at  once  seems  to  him  to  defer  a pleasure.  That 
may  be,  but,  once  in  the  Capital,  and  having  done  its  more  metropolitan  attrac- 
tions, it  is  easier  to  see  the  charms  of  other  cities,  and  if  a well-worn  and 


182 


time-honored  policy  of  “save  the  best  for  the  last,”  were  to  be  carried  out,  the 
Capital  would  be  nearer  the  first,  and  Guadalajara  very  near  indeed  to  the  end 
of  the  string.  It  is  one  of  the  most  charming,  most  fascinating  places  in  the 
world  in  every  way.  It  is  beautifully  located;  the  climate  is  superb,  every 
day  being  one  of  springtime;  the  streets  are  clean  as  a floor  that  is  swept;  the 
parks  and  plazas  are  ever  green  with  pretty  trees,  and  brightened  with  lovely 
flowers,  that  bloom  in  December  as  in  June.  Guadalajara  may  well  be  written 

down  as  Mexico’s  famous  city. 
Every  street  and  plaza  has  some 
ovel  attraction,  and  its  suburbs 
some  novelty  not  found  else- 
where, and  in  the  near  neighbor- 
hood such  views  of  lake,  cascade 
and  canon  beauties  as  are  not  sur- 
passed in  the  world.  The  one 
single  objection  to  the  city  is, 
that  it  has  been  repaired,  reno- 
vated and  repainted — and  this  lat- 
ter, covering  up  the  wrinkles  of 
age  with  fresh  color,  is  to  Le 
deprecated,  on  any  pretext — but, 
in  reality,  none  of  this  detracts 
from  the  pleasure  of  a visit. 
Long  before  the  train  arrives  at 
the  station  the  towers  of  the  Ca- 
thedral can  be  seen,  and  the  out- 
lines of  the  city  discerned.  The 
view  is  from  the  windows  of  the 
right-hand  side  of  the  cars. 
Guadalajara  lies  in  the  midst  of  a 
plain — on  three  sides  rising  in 
terraces  to  the  mountains  that  al- 
most surround  it,  and  on  the  west 
side  is  the  jumping-off  place  to 
the  tierra  caliente  where  the  moun- 
tains seem  to  cease,  and  the  plain 
and  sky  come  together.  This 
train  does  not  stop  on  the  out- 
skirts, as  at  most  places  in  Mex- 
ico, but  comes  to  a station  in  the 
city,  near  the  garden  of  San 
Francisco,  and  very  near  the  prin- 
cipal plaza.  The  streets  run  at 
right  angles,  intersecting  the 
parks  and  plazas,  of  which  there 
THE  MURILLO,  GUADALAJARA.  are  a score  or  more,  with  fourteen 

portales  that  cover  the  sidewalks  for  many  squares,  fourteen  bridges,  five  the- 
atres, that  of  Degollado  being  the  largest  on  the  continent,  except,  perhaps,  the 
Metropolitan  Opera  House,  in  New  York,  or  the  Auditorium,  of  Chicago.  It  is 
a handsome  building  of  white  stone,  with  a fine  portico  supported  by  massive 
columns.  The  original  intention  was  to  include  a hotel  in  the  building,  but 
this  idea  has  not  at  this  writing  been  carried  out.  There  are  five  tiers  of  seats, 
stalls  and  boxes,  and  the  decorations  are  very  handsome  indeed.  The  Dcgol- 
lado  was  opened  in  1866  by  the  famous  Mexican  cantatrice,  Peralta.  The  other 


183 


theatres  are  the  Apollo,  Principal  and  the  Circo  de  Pro- 
greso. There  are  twenty-five  baths,  twenty-three  res- 
taurants, and  twenty-eight  hotels,  and  when  it  is  remem- 
bered that  this  city  did  not  have  a railroad  till  1888, 
these  statistics  have  more  import.  The  public  buildings, 
the  Cathedral,  Governor’s  Palace,  the  Mint,  Degol- 
lado  Theatre,  the  Hospicio,  the  Penitentiary,  the  Hos- 
pital de  Belen,  and  the  State  Capitol  of  Jalisco  are  all 
fine  specimens  of  Mexican  architecture  not  expected  in 
this  far-away  place.  The  Paseo  is  a boulevard  drive  on 
both  sides  of  the  Rio  San  Juan  de  Dios,  which  runs 
northward  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  city;  the  drive  extends 
from  the  Alameda  to  the 
southern  boundary.  Besides 
the  Alameda  the  principal 
parks  are  the  Plaza  de 
Armas,  Jardin  Botanico, 
Parque  Alcalde,  and  the  Cal- 
zada  de  San  Pedro,  beauti- 
fully adorned  with  tropical 
trees  and  ever-blooming  flow- 
ers. As  to  churches,  the  Ca- 
thedral is  a magnificent  struc- 
ture. The  original  foundation 
was  laid  in  1548,  in  a hut 
thatched  with  straw.  The 
present  building  was  com- 
menced in  1561,  the  corner 
stone  was  laid  ten  years  later, 
on  July  31st,  by  Bishop 
Ayala,  and  the  building  was 
completed  in  1618;  the  tow- 
JUAN  PANDURO,  THE  NOTED  INDIAN  SCULPTOR.  crs  Were  thrown  down  by  the 

earthquake  of  1818.  The  clock  between  the  towers  was  also  injured  by 
the  earthquake.  The  interior  is  rich  in  decorations  and  paintings;  one, 
the  Assumption,  by  Murillo,  for  which  an  offer  of  75,000  dollars  gold 
was  refused  by  the  Archbishop,  is  especially  fine,  and  there  are  others 
too  numerous  to  attempt  description.  The  two  towers  are  wholly  un- 
like any  others  in  Mexico,  but  more  like  the  steeples  of  the  churches  of  this 
country.  In  one  of  them  is  the  “Campanita  del  Correo,”  literally,  the  little  bell 
of  the  courier,  or  post,  which  rang  only  in  announcement  of  some  event  of 
importance.  Another  bell,  called  San  Clemente,  was,  in  former  times,  rung 
during  a thunder  storm,  to  ward  off  the  lightning.  An  adjunct  to  the  Cathedral 
is  the  Sagrario,  a comparatively  new  structure,  commenced  in  1808  and  com- 
pleted in  1843. 

The  other  churches  are  San  Francisco,  San  Agustin,  San  Felipe,  La  Com- 
pania,  Guadalupe,  Mexicaltzingo,  Jesus  Maria,  Capuchinas,  Santa  Teresa,  Santa 
Maria,  La  Merced,  Santa  Monica,  El  Carmen,  San  Jose  de  Analco,  San  Sebas- 
tian de  Analco,  La  Parroqua  de  Jesus,  San  Juan  de  Dios,  Aranzazu,  La  Sole- 
dad,  San  Diego,  J3elen,  La  Concepcion,  La  Trinidad  y la  Parroqua  del  Pilar, 
with  others  in  course  ot  construction. 

One  of  the  most  famous  institutions  of  Guadalajara  is  the  Hospicio,  and 
one  of  the  most  noiable  in  the  world.  It  is  a handsome  building  of  white 
stone,  covering  an  entire  square,  and  containing  twenty-three  patios,  or  courts, 


184 


with  fountains  and  flowers.  It  is  not  a hospital,  as  popularly  supposed,  but  an 
asylum  home  for  the  poor  of  all  ages,  from  the  baby  in  the  cradle  to  old  men 
and  women  bent  with  their  infirmities.  The  institution  is  admirably  managed, 
under  authority  of  the  State  of  Jalisco.  Children  are  taught  all  that  may  be 

learned  in  schools,  and 
as  they  grow  older  they 
learn  some  useful  occu- 
pation in  the  arts  and 
sciences,  and  the  prod- 
uct of  their  labor  is  of- 
fered for  sale,  in  sup- 
port of  the  Hospicio, 
among  which  are  some 
of  the  most  exquisite 
embroideries  and  laces, 
made  by  the  girls.  Mu- 
sic, painting  and  calis- 
thenics are  a part  of  the 
tuition,  while  the  more 
A BURRO  PARTY  practical  matters  of  life 

involve  serious  attention.  No  permit  of  entrance  is  required.  You  will  be  met 
at  the  gate  by  one  of  the  Sisters  in  charge,  and  placed  under  the  guidance  of 
an  attendant,  who  will  show  you  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  you  may 
find  in  all  your  travels. 

The  Hospital  de  Belen  is  interesting  even  to  the  casual  visitor,  and  in- 
tensely so  to  the  medical  man.  It  is  a building  of  one  story  only,  but  cover- 
ing an  immense  area,  as  each  of  the  four  sides  measures  over  a thousand  feet. 
The  interior  is  curiously  arranged — from  a central  court  radiate  six  long, 
narrow  wards,  that  are  each  260  feet  long  by  24  feet  wide,  in  which  are  main- 
tained over  8co  beds — the  physicians  in  charge  may  stand  in  this  central 
court,  and  simply  turning  half  around,  may  see  what  is  going  on  in  each  ward, 
may  see  each  of  the  800  beds  without  moving  from  his  position.  One  ward 
is  used  for  the  sick  from  the  prisons,  is  protected  by  a heavy  grating  and 
guarded.  The  Hospital  was  founded  by  Senor  Bishop  Fray  Antonio  Alcalde, 
and  was  opened  in 
1791.  The  Peni- 
tentiary is  built  on 
much  the  same 
plans  as  the  Hos- 
pital, with  long  cor- 
r i d o r s,  radiating 
from  the  central 
patio — so  that  a 
guard  of  fifty  men 
in  the  central  court 
might  hold  at  bay 
2,000  prisoners  in 
case  of  revolt,  or 
one  rapid-fire  ma- 
chine gun  with  half  the  barranca  ferry. 

a dozen  men  could  hold  them  in  check.  The  towers  seen  from  the 
right-hand  windows  of  the  cars,  on  the  approach  to  Guadalajara,  are 
at  San  Pedro,  a suburb  of  Guadalajara.  The  village  is  about  two 
leagues  east  of  the  city,  reached  by  horse  cars  that  start  from  near  the 


185 


northeast  corner  of  the  main  plaza,  and  run  over  a very  picturesque  road, 
the  Calzada  de  San  Pedro,  shaded  by  large  trees  and  ends  in  a very  pretty 
plaza.  The  wealthier  class  of  Guadalajara  have  their  summer  residences  at 
San  Pedro,  and  some  of  their  houses  are  very  beautiful  indeed.  The  famous 
Guadalajara  ware,  that  is  known  the  world  over,  is  from  the  potteries  of  San 
Pedro.  If  you  will  walk  two  squares  east  on  the  street  that  leads  from  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  plaza  of  San  Pedro,  turn  down  to  the  right  half  a square, 
you  will  come  to  a low  adobe  house  on  the  left  side  of  the  street.  The  latch 
string  is  on  the  outside,  and  a warm  welcome  within  its  doors  from  Juan 
Panduro,  the  Indian  sculptor,  who  will  show  and  sell  samples  of  his  exquisite 
handiwork,  or,  rather,  their  handiwork,  for  there  are  two  artists — father  and 
son;  and  if  you  desire  a bust  or  statuette  of  yourself  of  life-like  likeness,  it  may 


CHURCH  OF  SAN  JOSE,  GUADALAJARA. 

be  modeled  while  you  wait,  afterwards  baked  cuid  sent  to  your  hotel,  or  the 
artists  will  call  at  the  hotel  and  do  the  modeling  in  your  room. 

There  are  four  horse-car  lines  leading  to  as  many  suburbs,  each  an  interest- 
ing ride.  If  there  is  time  to  do  them  all  they  are  worth  it. 

But  to  the  Barranca  is  not  so  easy  a journey,  yet  not  one  that  even  the 
fatigue  of  a burro  ride  will  bring  regrets.  Tram  cars  take  you  across  the  plain 
in  an  hour,  then  there  is  another  hour  by  burro  for  the  descent ; this  latter  hour 
is  worth  a hundred  anywhere  else  for  the  very  novelty  of  it.  It  is  a narrow  wind- 
ing path  down  the  mountain  side,  a path  just  wide  enough  for  the  trains  of 
burros  to  pass  as  they  go  up  and  down.  They  come  to  the  mouth  of  the  canon 
without  any  hint  of  it  till  you  are  on  the  brink  of  a yawning  chasm  that  looks 
ten  thousand  feet  deep,  but  it  is  not  quite  so  much  as  that;  it  is  only  two  thou- 


186 


sand  feet,  and  the  road  makes  the  descent  in  little  more  than  a mile,  though 
its  crooks  and  turns  make  it  about  three  miles;  these  crooks  and  turns  are 
so  short  that  a train  of  twenty  burros  will  in  some  places  have  four  turns  in  it, 
so  that  the  riders  see  each  other  immediately  above  and  below,  as  in  a wind- 
ing stairs. 

The  scenery  is  grandly  magnificent  and  wholy  indescribable,  so  wildly  pic- 
turesque, not  as  seen  from  a car  window;  here  you  are  in  the  very  midst 
of  great  castled  rocks,  frowning  precipices  and  unfathomable  abysses,  passing 
first  the  scraggy  mountain  oaks  till,  in  the  lower  road,  the  path  is  through  a 
forest  of  bananas  and  shaded  by  their  broad  leaves.  At  the  bottom  of  the  bar- 
ranca is  the  Lerma  River,  here  called  the  Rio  de  Santiago,  and  on  either  side 
the  towering  mountains  lift  up  in  perpendicular  cliffs,  in  the  grandest  pictures 
of  sublime  magnificence.  A little  ferry,  with  narrow  boats  pulled  from  side 
to  side  by  a rope,  transfers  passengers  and  the  freight  brought  by  the  burros, 
while  the  poor  little  beasts  that  never  get  a ride  anywhere  must  swim  here. 
The  return  takes  a little  longer  time,  as  the  ascent  is  more  difficult,  but  the 
riding  is  more  comfortable  going  up  hill,  and  the  journey  back  to  the  city  is 
about  four  hours.  All  in  all  the  trip  is  worth  the  fatigue  of  it. 

Near  Guadalajara  are  the  beautiful  Falls  of  Juanacatlan,  a cascade  with  a 
clear  leap  of  over  seventy-one  feet — a veritable  Niagara,  of  somewhat  abbre- 
viated dimensions,  but,  truly,  the  wonder  of  this  country.  Like  the  greater 
Niagara  of  the  North,  the  waters  have  been  harnessed  to  turn  the  wheels  of 
mills  and  factories  and  the  dynamos  for  the  lights  of  Guadalajara.  To  reach 
the  Falls  of  Juanacatlan,  stop  at  the  station  of  El  Castillo,  either  as  you  come 
or  go,  or  take  the  little  accommodation  train  that 
makes  one  or  two  trips  each  day  from  Guadala- 
jara. Guadalajara  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of 
Jalisco,  and  is  on  the  western  division  of  the  Mexi- 
can Central  Railway,  381  miles  from  the  City  of 
Mexico. 

Guanajuato.  The  nomenclature  of  the  cities  and 
Wan-ah-wah'-to  towns  of  Mexico  requires  a curious 
spelling  that  is  often  at  variance  with  the  pronun- 
ciation, but  when  once  you  know  how  to  call  the 
names  they  are  as  musical  as  at  first  they  seem  hard 
to  say.  The  derivation  of  these  names  is  for  the 
most  part  from  the  Tarascan  or  the  Otomite  tongue, 
or  of  Toltec  or  Aztec  origin,  in  latter  days  given  a 
Spanish  spelling  which,  properly  enunciated,  bears 
some  resemblance  to  the  original.  The  Tarascan 
Indians  named  this  place  Quanashuato,  signifying 
the  hill  of  the  frogs,  and  the  Spaniards  changed 
either  spelling  or  pronouncing  very  little  when  they 
spelled  it  Guanajuato  and  pronounced  it  Wan-ah- 
wah-to,  with  just  a suspicion  of  a ‘‘g”  before  the 
“wan.”  As  to  the  wherefore  of  the  “hill  of  the 
frogs”  does  not  appear  in  the  legend,  unless  the 
hill  was  named  in  honor  of  one  of  their 
gods,  one  of  which,  in  the  shape  of  a 
huge  frog  cut  in  stone,  was  found  here. 

To  reach  Guanajuato  the  traveler  must 
go  to  Silao  on  the  Mexican  Central 
Railway,  where  there  is  a branch  road 

leading  eleven  miles  eastward  to  Marfil;  status  in  the  alhonpiga,  cpANAguATO. 


187 


thence  by  horse  cars  up  the  barranca,  nearly  three  miles,  to  the  center 
of  the  city,  over  the  most  interesting  road,  for  its  length,  in  Mexico. 
From  Marfil  to  the  Jardin  de  la  Union  and  the  Presa  de  la  Olla  the  route  is 
along  the  highway  that  leads  up  the  gulch,  as  an  American  miner  would  call  it, 
through,  under  and  over  the  immense  silver  reduction  works.  A good  plan  is 
to  retain  seats  on  the  horse  cars  as  far  as  Jardin  de  la  Union,  and  then  change 
to  another,  going  on  up  the  hill  to  the  Presa  de  la  Olla.  Perched  on  the  steep 
hillsides  that  rise  almost  perpendicularly  are  the  low  flat  houses  in  such 
out-of-reach  places  that  it  is  a wonder  how  anything  but  a goat  could  ever 
get  there;  there  are  hundreds  of  these  houses  on  both  of  the  mountains,  some 
of  them  so  far  up  that  they  look  like  dry-goods  boxes  that  might  have  been 
carried  there  by  a cyclone  and  lodged  on  some  crag  or  jutting  rock,  and  the 
fact  that  they  are  all  inhabited  is  proof  that  the  Mexican  is  a good  climber, 
whatever  else  he  may  not  be.  This  highway  along  which  the  street  cars  run 
is  crowded  with  people,  burros  and  dogs,  going  up  and  coming  down,  in  all 
shapes  and  sizes,  laden  or  unladen  as  the  errand  may  or  may  not  have  been 
performed. 

The  houses  of  that  antique  mold  that  suggests  Egypt  or  the  Holy  Land  are 
larger  and  better,  till  at  the  Jardin  de  la  Union  are  some  really  fine  buildings, 
a grand  theatre,  some  fine  churches  and  the  Palacio  Gobierno.  The  road  does 
not  end  here,  but  continues  on  up  the  barranca  to  what  I may  call  the  top 
of  the  city,  where  are  some  of  the  most  romantic  little  homes  in  a most  pictur- 
esque residence  district.  A stream  which  comes  down  from  the  upper  hills 
falls  from  one  reservoir  to  the  other,  forming  little  lakelets  that  are  crossed  by 
bridges  to  the  houses  on  the  other  side.  The  walls  of  the  reservoirs  and  the 
bridges  are  covered  with  vines  and  flowers,  and  the  houses  are  completely 
embowered  with  them.  I remember  one  of  these  charming  nests — I can’t  call  it 
anything  else — as  dainty  a piece  as  was  ever  a subject  for  a canvas.  There  is 
scarcely  room  between  the  rocks  and  the  stream  for  the  house,  and  it  is  built 
on  arches  that  stand  in  the  water.  Overhanging  trees  and  vines  from  the  cliffs 
above  make  a bower  of  beauty  that  casts  a grateful  shade  over  the  balconies 
and  Moorish  arches  below,  so  that  the  sunlight  comes  to  that  house  softened 
by  swaying  leaves  and  the  air  perfumed  by  ever-blooming  flowers. 

The  Pompeiian  colors  of  the  walls  and  arches  added  other  hues  and  tints 
to  the  brighter  ones  of  the  flowers.  Some  pea-fowls  sat  sleepily  on  a wall, 
a cock  with  spreading  plumes  strutted  proudly  up  and  down,  and  in  the  lake 
the  ducks  floated  lazily.  From  an  upper  casement  window  where  the  awning 
cloth  was  thrown  outside  the  casement  rail,  as  is  the  fashion,  two  dark-haired 
beauties  robed  in  white,  the  long  braids  making  inky  stripes  that  must  have 
reached  almost  to  their  feet,  looked  out.  Dost  like  the  picture?  There  were 
two  of  them — one  in  reality,  the  other  in  bright  reflection  in  the  clear  crystal 
waters  of  the  lakelet. 

It  is  an  up-hill  walk  from  the  Jardin  de  la  Union  to  the  little  alameda  at  the 
Presa  de  la  Olla,  where  the  band  plays  evenings,  Sundays  and  feast  days,  yet 
worth  it  all;  but  if  you  are  not  equal  to  it,  ride  up  on  the  cars  and  walk  down 
for  the  sights  by  the  way  and  the  grand  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding 
country.  As  soon  as  the  street  cars  leave  the  station  at  Marfil  they  begin 
to  arrive  at  and  pass  the  silver  haciendas  or  reduction  works,  where  the  pure 
silver  is  taken  from  the  ores  by  the  various  processes — ores  that  come  from 
these  mines  roundabout  that  have  been  among  the  richest  in  the  world,  that 
from  their  discovery  by  two  muleteers  in  1548  to  1898  have  produced  over 
one  thousand  millions  of  dollars  and  are  still  worked  as  very  rich  mines. 
These  silver  haciendas  will  need  no  pointing  out;  they  are  the  old  castle-like 
Structures  that  line  the  road  from  Marfil  to  Guanajuato.  The  mines  are  farther 


188 


A STREET  IN  QUANAJUATO, 


Up  in  the  hills,  whence  the  ore  is 
brought  on  the  backs  of  mules 
and  burros.  The  Mint  is  one  of 
the  finest  and  largest  in  the  country 
and  coins  more  money  than  any 
other.  The  process  of  melting  the 
bars  of  silver,  stamping  and  mill- 
ing, is  the  same  as  in  our  mints; 
here  was  a white-haired  old  In- 
dian, whose  locks  seem  silvered  by 
the  metal  he  has  ladled  from 
the  furnace  to  the  molds  in 
thirty  long  years  of  continual 
service,  and  the  two  Indians 
seated  on  low  stools  literally 
surrounded  by  the  silver  coins, 
handling  every  piece,  and  by 
passing  them  through  their  fing- 
ers and  over  the  palms  of  their 
hands  could  detect  the  slightest 
scratch  or  minute  defect.  A long 
practice  made  them  perfect,  and 
they  never  made  a mistake  in  pick- 
ing up  twenty  coins  at  a grasp,  no 
more,  no  less,  and  never  failing  to 
throw  out  an  imperfect  piece. 
Such  a keen  sense  of  touch  is 
truly  wonderful,  and  it  is  stated  as 
a fact  that  their  work  was  so  per- 
fect that  no  further  examination 
was  made,  but  the  coins  rejected 
by  them  were  returned  to  the 
furnace  to  be  melted  over  again. 
The  mint  is  curiously  built,  but  a 
strong,  substantial  building,  that 
might  have  been  a treasure  house 
in  Babylon  of  old,  even  to  the 
hanging  garden  that  adorns  the 
roof  with  growing  flowers.  The 
center  of  the  field  of  operations  in 
doing  Guanajuato  should  be  at  the 
Jardin  de  la  Union.  Near  by  are 
the  churches,  the  theatres,  the 
hotels,  the  Mint  and  State  build- 
ings, and  the  Alhondiga  or  Cas- 
tilla de  Granaditas,  erected  in  1785 
as  a Chamber  of  Commerce,  now 
used  as  a prison.  It  was  cap- 
tured by  Hidalgo  in  the  early 
part  of  the  war  for  Independence, 
and  after  he  and  the  patriots  Al- 
lende,  Aldama  and  Jimenez  were 
captured  and  executed  at  Chi- 
huahua, their  heads  were  brought 


189 


here  and  hung  on  hooks  on  the  walls  of  this  building.  Hidalgo  is  still  shown 
— I mean  the  hook  is  still  shown.  The  execution  of  the  patriot  priest 
and  the  hanging  of  his  head  on  these  walls  was  resented  by  the  Mexicans, 
and  after  the  War  for  Indeoendence  was  over  the  head  was  taken  to 
the  cathedral  in  the  City  of  Mexico  and  in  his  honor  there  was  erected  the 
bronze  statue  that  stands  at  the  entrance. 

During  the  attack  on  the  Alhondiga  by  the  patriots  Hidalgo  called  for  a 
volunteer  who  would  go  under  the  walls  and  set  fire  to  the  massive  doors — 
a sturdy  peon  came  forward,  and,  taking  from  the  mountain  side  a wide,  flat 
stone,  threw  it  on  his  back  as  a shield  against  the  missiles  that  might  be  thrown 


TEATRO  JUAREZ,  GUANAJUATO. 

from  the  walls,  took  a fire  brand  in  his  hand  and  with  it  burned  the  great 
doors  and  admitted  Hidalgo  and  his  followers  to  the  patio,  where  they  encoun- 
tered the  Royalists,  drove  them  up  the  grand  staircase  and  to  the  roof,  where 
they  surrendered.  Blood  that  flowed  in  the  conflict  is  shown  in  stains  on  the 
heavy  balustrade.  In  one  of  the  corridors  is  a statue  of  the  heroic  Indian 
with  the  stone  on  his  shoulders  and  the  uplifted  firebrand. 

The  Theatre  Juarez,  opposite  the  Jardin  de  la  Union,  is  one  of  the  finest 
play  houses,  not  only  in  Mexico  but  on  the  continent,  and  for  a city  of  its 
size  is  not  surpassed  in  the  world;  it  is  a handsome  building,  of  modern 


190 


architecture,  built  of  the  beautiful  green  stone  found  in  these  hills,  the  columns 
supporting  the  portico  are  constructed  of  discs  of  this  stone  laid  one  upon 
another.  The  magnificent  auditorium  is  richly  decorated;  this  and  the 
scenery  is  from  the  brush  of  Mexico’s  greatest  scenic  artist,  Herrera.  The 
splendid  foyer  has  sumptuous  parlors  with  retiring-rooms  for  ladies,  luxu- 
riously furnished  and  daintily  decorated. 

There  is  wealth  of  paintings  in  the  churches  of  Guanajuato,  as  there  is  a 
wealth  of  silver  in  its  mines.  The  churches  are  fine,  especially  that  of  the 
Compania,  commenced  in  1747,  and  finished  in  1765,  the  shelf  cut  out  of 
the  rock  for  its  foundations  alone  costing  nearly  $100,000.  The  tower  contains 
a chime  of  bells,  and  you  may  have  heard  before  you  came,  or  known,  after 
you  heard  the  bells  of  Mexico,  that  they  are  not  usually  hung  in  chimes.  The 


dome  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  and  is  the  one 
seen  high  above  all  the  others  in  all  views  of  Guanajuato.  The  old  Church  of 
San  Sebastian  is  on  the  line  of  street  cars  leading  to  the  Presa  de  fa  Olla;^  in 
the  churchyard  are  scores  of  crumbling  tombs  with  curious  inscriptions.  The 
Church  of  San  Diego  contains  a picture  of  the  Last  Supper  of  San  Francisco. 
The  other  churches  are  San  Francisco,  Loreto  and  Guadalupe.  In  the  former 
is  the  much-venerated  image  of  Our  Lady  of  Guanajuato,  presented  by  Philip 
II.  of  Spain. 

High  up  on  a hill,  in  the  western  part  of  the  city,  is  a panteon  that  may  be 
called  a replica  of  the  catacombs  of  the  Old  World.  In  the  vaults  are  artis- 
tically arranged  the  bodies  and  bones  of  lates  lamented,  whose  departure  from 
this  vale  of  tears  covers  more  than  one  century.  The  visit  to  the  panteon  is 


191 


not  the  most  cheerful  one,  but  the  curious-minded  will  be  entertained.  The 
panteon  proper  is  a cemetery  in  which  there  are  few  graves.  The  bodies 
are  placed  in  tombs,  arranged  in  tiers  in  the  thick  walls.  A stipulated  sum  is 
paid  for  the  first  five  years,  with  the  privilege  of  renewal.  If  at  the  end  of  that 
time  the  mourners’  grief  has  cooled,  and  further  payment  is  not  made,  the 
body  is  taken  from  the  hole  in  the  wall;  if  nothing  but  bones  remain  they  are 
thrown  into  the  heap  at  the  end  of  the  arched  corridor  under  the  panteon.  If 
the  body  is  preserved  in  the  dry  air  of  the  climate  it  is  placed  against  the 


CATACOMBS,  GUANAJUATO. 


wall  to  grin,  and  bear  company  to  the  other  mummies  that  have  stood  there 
through  the  ages.  About  half  way  between  the  station  at  Marfil  and  the 
Jardin  de  la  Union  is  a little  park  on  the  right  as  you  go  up;  stop  here  and 
walk  up  the  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  street  to  the  panteon  or  call  most 
any  Mexican  that  may  be  standing  by,  tell  him  you  want  burros;  he  will  have 
them  there  in  a jiffy,  and  you  may  ride  up,  if  you  can  call  this  going  on 
burro-back  ridin^r.. 

The  City  of  Guanajuato  is  totally  unlike  any  other  in  Mexico,  and  the  visit 


192 


there  is  one  that  will  be  remembered;  but  the  legends  and  fairy  tales  would 
form  a volume  if  they  were  all  written  down,  from  the  turning  of  the  hose  on 
the  hogs  to  wash  the  silver  from  their  bristles,  gathered  in  their  wallows  in 
the  pools,  to  the  miracles  priests  performed.  I remember  mine,  and  all  the 
sights  seen  from  the  gallop  of  the  street-car  mules  up  the  hill  from  Marfil,  till 
I bought  the  helados  from  an  Indian  boy  as  I took  my  seat  in  the  train  for 
Silao.  I will  explain  that  an  helado^  or,  as  the  venders  cry  the  name, 
is  a sort  of  ice  cream,  frozen  in  a tin  tube  about  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
four  inches  long,  and  it  was  not  the  least  oi  the  pleasant  surprises  I found 


IN  THE  ARISTOCRATIC  QUARTER,  GUANAJUATO. 

at  Guanajuato.  The  first  settlement  in  Guanajuato  vvas  made  in  1557,  although 
the  San  Bernabe  vein  of  La  Luz  mine  was  discovered  in  1548.  The  later  dates 
cannot  be  precisely  stated,  as  the  records  were  destroyed  during  the  War  for 
Independence  in  1810 — but  it  is  reasonably  certain  that  these  figures  are  cor- 
rect and  that  the  town  charter  was  granted  jn  1679  and  for  the  city  in  1741. 

Guanajuato,  the  capital' of  the  State  of  the  same  name,  is  250  miles  from  the 
City  of  Mexico  and  fourteen  miles  by  branch  road  from  the  main  line  of  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway  at  Silao. 


193 


Guaymas.  Is  the  chief  seaport  of  the  State  of  Sonora,  and  the  southern 
Wah-e-mas'  terminus  of  the  Sonora  Railway.  The  harbor  is  a very  beautiful 
one,  surrounded  by  high  mountains  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  islands 
that  seem  to  be  submerged  peaks,  with  only  the  rugged  points  above  the  water. 
Heriiiosillo.  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Sonora,  is  on  the  Sonora  River, 
Er-mo-seel'-yo  in  the  midst  of  an  agricultural  district,  surrounded  by  rugged 
mountains,  where  there  are  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  where  live  the  Yaqui 
Indians  and  other  hostile  bands  that  have  always  been  a hindrance  to  the  work- 
ing of  the  mines.  Hermosillo  is  on  the  Sonora  Railway,  263  miles  from 
Benson,  on  the  border,  and  ninety  miles  from  the  Gulf  at  Guaymas. 

Iguala.  Is  a most  picturesque  little  city  nestled  in  a pretty  little  bowl  of 
Ig-wal-a  a valley,  among  the  mountains  of  the  Pacific  slope,  on  the  Cuer- 
navaca division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway.  Noted  in  history  through 
the  Plan  of  Iguala,  drawn  in  this  city  by  Yturbide,  called  The  Three  Guarantees, 
represented  in  the  national  colors,  green,  white  and  red,  so  Iguala  may  in  a 
way  be  called  the  birthplace  of  the  Mexican  flag.  The  ride  over  the  Mexican 
Central  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Iguala  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Republic, 
replete  with  magnificent  scenery  described  elsewhere.  The  Canon  of  the  Black 
Hand,  commonly  known  as  the  Iguala  Canon,  is  only  a few  miles  east  of  the 
town.  Here  are  some  of  the  most  wonderful  feats  of  modern  engineering. 


Irapuato.  Irapuato  means  strawberries;  not  that  this  is  the  translation 

Ir-ra-pwat'-o  of  the  word,  but  when  the  name  of  that  station  is  called  and  the 

train  stops  there,  all  the  passengers  go  out  and  buy  strawberries.  No  matter 
if  it  is  December  or  January,  the  cry  of  “fresas!"’  is  heard  on  all  sides — and 
great  luscious  berries,  the  finest  and  sweetest  in  the  world,  are  offered  at 
midsummer  prices,  and  the  bottom  of  the  basket  does  not  exhibit  that  rising 
tendency  so  common  to  the  strawberry  b x of  the  United  States.  Irapuato  is 
also  celebrated  as  the  place  to  change  cars  for  Guadalajara.  The  city  is  on 
the  west  side  of  the  track ; only  the  church  towers  may  be  seen  from  the 
station  above  the  green  trees  which  surround  them.  Here  is  a pretty  little 
city  worthy  of  a stop-over  check  for  one  train  at  least,  or  if  en  route  for 
Guadalajara  there  is  often  time  for  a horse-car  ride  up  town.  The  town  is 
irregularly  laid  out,  if  indeed  it  was  ever  laid  out,  the  narrow  streets  turning 
here  and  there,  converging  to  numerous  little  plazas,  and  to  the  Alameda  in 
the  center  of  the  city,  where  there  is  a combination  of  cleanliness  and  beauty 
of  artistic  gardening.  There  is  also  a queer  combination  in  the  two  old- 
fashioned  well-sweeps  that  might  have  come  from  “down  south,”  and  the 
beautiful  music  stand  that  exists  only  in  Mexico.  The  wells  and  well-sweeps 
are  for  irrigation  purposes  for  the  exquisite  flower  beds  that  adorn  the  park, 
the  borders  of  which  are  in  fantastic  shapes,  laid  with  pebbles  and  bowlders 
in  different  colors.  The  trees  and  shrubs  are  also  similarly  decorated  and 
protected  about  the  roots. 

The  music  stand,  the  necessary  adjunct  of  every  Mexican  town,  is  at  Ira- 
puato a thing  of  beauty  and  a joy  to  its  people,  when  the  band  plays  in  the  even- 


194 


ings  and  on  the  feast  days  and  Sundays.  It  is  in  the  center  of  the  park,  under 
the  trees  and  surrounded  with  flowers — so  there’s  fragrance  with  the  melody. 

There  are  churches  and  churches,  and  pictures  and  pictures,  in  name  from 
Guadalupe  to  San  Francisco  and  each  seeming  different  from  the  last  one,  so 
there  must  be  a look  into  each  arched  door  and  a stroll  through  nave  and 
sacristy  and  climbs  to  belfry  tower  as  everywhere  else,  and  withal  there  is 
nothing  disappointing  in  Irapuato,  from  the  strawberries  to  the  little  fonda 
on  the  plaza. 

Irapuato  is  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  212  miles  from  the  national 


capital. 

Jalapa.  Ave  Maria  purisima.que  venga  el  solA  be  your  prayer  when  you 
Ha-lap'-pa  come  to  Jalapa,  as  the  Jalapeho  invokes  the  Virgin  to  let  the  sun 
shine  through  the  mists  that  almost  constantly  hang  over  the  place— not  that  it 
rains,  but  a fine  filmy  mist  prevails,  in  contrast  to  the  bright  sunshine  of  all 
other  Mexico.  But  when  the  sun  shines,  than  Jalapa  there  is  not  a brighter 
spot  on  earth,  nor  one  more  quaintly  curious,  nor  yet  any  other  more  charm- 

i n g 1 y fascinating. 
Whether  your  com- 
ing be  down  from  the 
mountains  or  up 
from  the  sea,  you  may 
look  from  your  win- 
dow in  the  car  with 
an  anticipation  not 
akin  to  the  thoughts 
as  you  came  to  the 
others  of  these  old- 
time  towns.  Either 
way  the  approach  has 
been  through  tropic 
forests,  and  the  stop 
at  the  station  is  in 
the  midst  of  one. 
There  is  an  incon- 
gruity in  the  modern 
IRAPUATO  ALTAR.  iiewness  of  the  rail- 

road surroundings,  the  electric  lights  and  the  horse  cars.  A glance  beyond 
these  is  looking  backward  into  another  century.  In  the  ride  up  town,  the 
twentieth  is  between  the  rails  of  the  track,  and  the  sidewalk  is  back  in  the 
sixteenth,  where  the  red-tiled  roofs  project  over  the  walk-way,  and  casemated 
windows  are  strongly  iron-barred  to  keep  bandits  and  lovers  out,  and  sweet- 
hearts and  wives  wiljiin.  These  iron  bars  may  have  been  a necessity  in  the  old 
bandit  days,  but  not  for  that  purpose  now,  although  it  may  be  they  are  retained 
’gainst  the  lovers,  for  the  women  are  reputed  for  their  beauty,  till  it  has  become 
a proverb  among  the  Mexicans,  '‘Las  Jalapehas  son  halaguenasP  '‘bewitching, 
alluring  are  the  women  of  Jalapa,”  and  whether  this  is  the  principal  reason  why 
Jalapa  is  considered  as  “a  part  of  Paradise  let  down  to  earth”  does  not  appear. 
However  that  may  be,  the  American  who  has  never  been  there,  and  knows 
only  the  product,  the  jalap  of  the  old  family  doctor,  is  apt  to  consider  it  any- 
thing else  but  Paradise,  and  perhaps  has  wondered  if  any  good  could  come 
from  the  town;  but  when  he  has  seen  “las  Jalapenas,”  he  may  even  forget  the 
jalap’s  dose. 

^ In  the  days  when  the  journey  thither  involved  a horse-car  ride  of  seventy 
miles  and  two  days’  time  going  and  returning,  the  attractions  were  sufficient 


195 


to  allure  hundreds  of  tourists,  and  now  that  it  is  on  a main  line  between  the 
City  of  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz,  and  reached  within  a few  hours  from  either  city, 
their  numbers  greatly  increase. 

There  is  a fashion  to  speak  of  Mexico  as  ‘'old  Mexico” — eminently  proper, 
but  unnecessary.  There  is  nothing  new  there  but  the  railways;  but  whatever 
ancientness  that  may  impress  elsewhere,  there  is  something  older  about  Jalapa; 


IRAPUATO. 

really  it  seems  to  have  the  age  on  all  the  other  towns  in  the  country.  It  was 
a place  of  importance  when  Cortez  came.  The  houses  on  both  sides  of  the 
narrow  streets  are  of  a cumbersome  style  of  architecture,  with  here  and  there 
traces  of  the  Moorish  or  Castilian.  The  long  windows,  heavily  barred  with 
iron,  reach  nearly  to  the  ground,  and  if  there  is  a second  story,  there  is  a 
bit  of  projection  forming  a casement  or  balcony,  and  over  the  railing  the 


196 


brightly  colored  curtain  in  yellow  and  red  keeps  out  the  too  intense  rays  of  a 
tropic  sun,  and  may  also  keep  out  the  too  intent  gaze  of  some  son  upon  the 
face  and  form  of  the  sehorita  that  may  be  behind  it.  And  this  makes  a mem- 
ory of  some  old  Castilian  story  of  maiden  and  mandolin,  of  caballero  and 
casement,  of  music  and  moonlight — for  here  are  the  very  walls  (’tis  well  they 
have  not  ears)  and  there  the  window  and  the  balcony  where  some  Romeo 
may  have  climbed,  and  some  Juliet  leaned  her  cheek  upon  her  hand.  Jalapa 
lies  on  the  eastern  hillsides  of  Meniltepec,  and  the  streets  running  on  steep 
inclines,  or  across  the  slopes,  are  cleaned  by  every  passing  shower,  so  that 


A JALAPA  STREET. 

cleanliness,  as  well  as  beauty  and  antiquity,  are  attributes  of  this  delightful  city 
— an  example  of  nature’s  emulated  by  the  natives  within  their  homes  and 
gardens. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scenery  round  about  is  unsurpassed.  Just  back  of 
the  city  is  a great  mountain  with  a great  chalk-like  rock,  which  from  its  shape — 
like  a chest — is  called  the  cofre,  the  Cofre  de  Perote,  and  farther  away  to  the 
southwest  is  the  snow-capped  peak  of  Orizaba,  another  of  Mexico’s  extinct  vol- 
canoes, towering  high  above  the  surrounding  mountains.  To  the  east  the 
hills  get  lower  and  lower,  till  far  away  the  dim  outline  of  blue  defines  the 
coming  together  of  sky  and  sea. 


197 


Excursions  to  Teocelo,  Xico  and  Coatepec  may  be  made  by  rail,  or  by  the 
old  highway  through  tropical  forests  and  coffee  groves,  on  foot  or  burro-back. 
The  quaintly  pretty  little  towns  and  grand  view  of  the  Coatepec  Valley  is  worth 
all  the  journey  there.  Another  very  interesting  trip  may  be  made  to  Jilotepec, 
about  six  miles  away  down  in  the  valley,  to  be  made  on  horseback  or  by  burros. 
The  burros  are  rather  to  be  chosen,  for  the  very  novelty  of  it,  and  for  safety  as 
well — one  does  not  have  so  far  to  fall. 

The  Palacio  Gobierno  is  the  building  of  the  city,  though  by  no  means  the 
most  interesting.  Its  location  is  on  the  Plaza  Mayor.  There  is  a very  pretty 
little  theatre,  most  unique  in  its  appointments,  hardly  to  be  expected  in  this 
so  long  out-of-the-way  place.  The  Institute  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  is  located 
at  Jalapa  and  has  produced  some  fine  maps  and  topographical  drawings. 

The  present  Cathedral  was  formerly  the  Church  of  the  Conception,  founded 
in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  other  churches  are  San  Francisco,  founded  in 
1555;  San  Juan  de  Dios,  San  Hipolito,  1641;  San  Jose,  1770,  and  the  Calvario, 
iSoi;,  dating  their  foundations  from  the  sixteenth  to  the  nineteenth  centuries. 

While  there  is  much  of  interest  in  their  altars,  shrines  and  paintings,  the 
charms  of  Jalapa  are  without  the  walls  of  these  or  any  other  buildings,  unless 
it  be  those  where  live  the  Jalapenas. 

Jalapa  means  a ‘'place  of  water  and  sand.”  It  was  an  Indian  town  when 
Cortez  came,  and  being  on  the  main  road  from  the  coast  to  the  capital,  was 
a place  of  importance.  From  1720  to  1777  an  annual  fair  was  held  for  the 
sale  of  goods  brought  from  Cadiz  in  Spain.  Jalapa  is  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  Vera  Cruz.  A street-car  line  leads  up  the  steep  street  from  the  station  to 
the  Plaza  Mayor,  up  a hill  so  steep  that  it  requires  six  mules  to  draw  the  car. 
The  city  is  located  on  the  main  line  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  257  miles  from 
the  City  of  Mexico. 

Lagos.  A city  three  hundred  years  old  in  Mexico  is  not  uncommon,  and 
Lah'-gose  some  of  them  had  gotten  their  growth  when  their  charters  were 
granted;  that  is  about  the  age  of  the  city  that  was  formerly  called  Santa 
Maria  de  los  Lagos,  St.  Ma^y  of  the  Lakes.  In  modern  times  it  has  lost 
much  of  its  trade  and  some  of  its  name.  It  was  formerly  the  point  of  connec- 
tion with  diligencias  for  Guadalajara  and  San  Luis  Potosi,  but  the  completion 
of  the  railways  to  both  of  these  cities  took  even  this  business  away.  However, 
it  is  not  commercial  importance  that  attracts  to  the  average  Mexican  town, 
and  Lagos  has  what  all  the  others  have,  and  a visit  will  not  be  disappointing. 
It  is  a pretty  town,  on  the  west  side  of  the  track,  yet  hardly  to  be  seen,  it  is  so 
overshadowed  by  trees.  There  are  many  interesting  features  in  its  churches, 
markets,  streets  and  plazas,  and  there  is  a boast  of  good  provender  and  good 
wine  at  the  hotels. 

Lagos  is  in  the  State  of  Jalisco,  on  the  line  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway, 
296  miles  from  the  city.  Horse  cars  run  from  the  station  to  the  center  of 
the  city. 

Leon.  On  a broad  and  fertile  plain  watered  by  the  Rio  Turbio  is  the 
Lay-own  greatest  manufacturing  city  of  all  Mexico,  though  the  fact  is  not  dis- 
coverable from  the  cars.  There  are  no  many-storied  buildings  with  tall  chim- 
neys indicating  such  industries,  but  they  are  here  at  Leon.  Every  citizen 
lives  in  his  own  house  and  his  home  is  his  workshop.  There  is  scarcely  an 
article  of  use  or  ornament  but  what  is  made  at  Leon.  The  beautiful  saddles, 
bridles  and  horse  accoutrements  so  much  affected  by  the  Mexican;  shoes  and 
all  other  leathern  goods,  zerapes  and  rebosos  answering  the  purpose  of  coats 
and  shawls  for  men  and  women,  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  iron  ware  and  cut- 
lery, are  all  manufactured  at  Leon,  and  every  one  of  the  little  low,  square- 
built  houses  is  a busy  shop  of  some  kind  or  other. 


198 


THE  CATHEDRAL,  JALAPA. 


199 


There  is  no  indication,  from  the  station,  of  a city  of  such  size  and  impor- 
tance, nor  from  the  street  cars  as  they  wind  through  the  cactus-hedged  lanes 
for  a mile  or  more,  and  come  to  the  long,  narrow  streets,  crossing  others  at 
right  angles  that  seem  of  the  same  interminable  length  with  their  never-ending 
rows  of  houses  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  This  car  line  reaches  to  the  main 
plaza,  a very  pretty  one,  with  the  market  at  one  corner,  and  the  Casa  Munici- 
pal on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  three,  the  portales,  with  clean,  well-kept 
shops  and  stores,  offering  the  products  of  the  town.  The  plaza  is  shaded  with 
trees,  and  there  are  flowers  and  fountains  and  the  inevitable  music  stand. 
Horse  cars  lead  out  to  an  old  causeway,  now  resorted  to  as  a paseo  for  prome- 
nades and  drives  to  the  pretty  gardens  in  the  suburbs.  A little  further  out,  on 
the  road  to  the  north,  are  some  hot  springs  and  baths. 

The  establishment  of  the  church  in  Leon  received  a set-back  at  the  start,  in 
the  murder  of  the  cura,  Espinoso,  by  the  Chichimec  Indians  in  1586,  but  the 


LAGOS 

church  survived,  and  those  buildings  now  in  existence  are  very  interesting, 
both  for  their  great  age  and  peculiar  decoration.  The  one  with  the  great  dome 
and  two  high  towers  was  formerly  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la  Luz, 
commenced  in  1746  (now,  since  1886,  the  Cathedral),  and  is  over  200  feet  long, 
but  only  forty-five  wide.  Here  is  an  original  painting  of  Our  Lady  of  Light, 
the  Patroness  of  Leon,  presented,  as  attested  by  the  Jesuit  signatures  on  the 
back,  by  Jose  Maria  Genovesi,  in  1740.  In  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de 
los  Angeles  are  some  very  curious  carvings  by  a native  artist,  one  Munoz  of 
most  happy  memory.  The  other  churches  are  La  Soledad,  Sah  Felipe  and 
San  Juan,  the  former  being  the  oldest. 

Some  idea  of  the  size  of  Leon  may  be  formed  from  the  knowledge  that 
there  are  507  streets,  7,820  houses,  236  manzanas,  or  squares,  and  ten  plazas. 
There  was  a Spanish  town  on  this  site  in  the  year  1552,  referred  to  in  the  royal 


200 


archives  as  the  town  of  Leon,  from  which  time  the  city  dates  its  age,  though 
the  formal  order  for  its  foundation  was  not  issued  by  Viceroy  Almanza  until 
I575>  but  this  order  not  royally  confirmed  until  1712.  It  was  not  made  a city 
until  after  the  war  of  1810,  when  it  was  so  declared  by  the  State  of  Guanajuato, 
in  which  State  it  is. 

Leon  is  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  259  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 
Lerdo.  Near  the  Nazas  River,  and  in  the  midst  of  a very  fertile  cotton 
Laer'-do  region,  this  is  one  of  the  newest  towns  in  Mexico,  and  its  boast  is 

in  an  equable  climate,  cotton  mills  and 
oil  manufactories  rather  than  antiqui- 
ties. There  is  a pretty  garden  in  the 
principal  plaza  with  seats  under  the 
trees.  There  are  four  churches,  a mar- 
ket  and  the  Plaza  de  Toros  to  be  vis 
ited.  The  soil  of  the  Lerdo  plain  is 
very  fertile,  and  the  cli- 
mate is  particularly  adapt- 
ed to  the  culture  of  cotton; 
it  is  claimed  that  two  and 
three  crops  may  be  made 
without  replanting,  and  as 
to  corn  and  wheat,  they  just 
grow  all  the  time.  It  is 
only  three  miles  south  from 
Lerdo  to  Torreon,  the 
junction  point  of  the  Inter- 
national and  the  Mexican 
Central  Railroads.  The  city 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the 
road  and  about  three  miles 
distant  from  Gomez-Palacio, 
FROM  THE  STATION  TO  THE  TOWN,  LERDO.  readied  by  electric  cars  that 

run  across  the  plain,  through  an  avenue  shaded  by  green  trees.  Lerdo  is  on 
the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  684  miles  from  the  capital. 

Matizatiillo.  Is  an  important  seaport  on  the  Pacific  coast  in  the  State  of 
Man-zan-eel'-yo  Colima,  where  there  is  an  excellent  harbor,  with  very  beautiful 
and  picturesque  surroundings.  A railway  of  sixty  miles  connects  the  port  with 
Colima,  the  capital  of  the  State. 

Maravatio.  Looking  from  the  west  windows  of  an  approaching  train, 
Marry-va-tee'-o  the  picture  is  a pretty  one  of  green  trees,  with  red-tiled 
roofs  peeping  just  above  them,  and  over  all  a Moorish  tower,  with  its  bells, 
is  lifted  up  against  the  blue  sky.  An  arched  bridge  of  stone  is  on  the  other 
side,  where  it  spans  a branch  of  the  river  Lerma;  a beautiful  stream  passes 
under  the  track  just  south  of  the  station.  The  town  lies  quite  close  to  the 
railroad,  and  there  is  often  time  for  more  than  a passing  view  in  a stroll  through 
the  crooked  streets  to  the  principal  plaza  where  there  are  fountains  and 
flowers.  In  the  suburbs  of  San  Nicolas  and  San  Miguel  are  the  other  plazas 
reached  by  other  still  more  crooked  streets,  which  also  lead  to  a small  lake 
just  outside  of  the  town.  San  Juan  Bautista  is  the  parish  church,  a large, 
quaint  old  building  in  the  form  of  a cross;  the  carved  altars  are  worth  seeing, 
as  are  also  the  other  churches,  Columna  and  Nuestro  Senor  de  los  PTerreros. 
Our  Lord  of  the  Blacksmiths.  Maravatio  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  Mexico’s 
old  towns,  and  has  a reputation  all  over  the  country  for  the  excellence  of 
the  shoes  manufactured  there.  The  original  town  was  called  Maravatio  el 


201 

Alto,  located  15  miles  southwest,  and  was  founded  in  1535;  the  present  town 
was  founded  in  1541. 

One  of  the  old  houses  near  the  parish  church  bears  date  of  1573.  Mara- 
vatio  is  on  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  138  miles  from  the  city. 

Matamoros.  Was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Tamaulipas  be- 

Mat-ah-mo'-ros  fore  it  was  removed  to  Victoria.  The  town  is  on  the 
Rio  Grande  opposite  Brownsville,  Texas,  and  about  thirty  miles  from  the 
Gulf.  The  city  was  occupied  by  the  Americans  under  Gen.  Taylor  May  i8th, 
1846 — but  even  before  that  was  an  important  military  base  during  the  war 
between  Mexico  and  Texas.  There  is  a division  of  the  Mexican  National 
Railway  extending  north  to  Mier,  seventy-five  miles,  with  an  ultimate  des- 
tination at  Monterey. 

Mazatlau.  One  of  the  most  important  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast,  with 

Maz-at-lan'  only  a fair  harbor  of  eighteen  to  twenty  feet  of  water,  but 

picturesque  to  a degree,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gulf  of  California,  and  surrounded  by  high  hills  that  are 
reflected  in  the  marvelously  clear  water  of  the  beautiful 
bay — with  what  the  natives  believe  to  be  the  highest  light- 
house in  the  world;  but  there  are  others  that  are  higher; 
iniand  about  thirty  leagues  are  the  famous  mines,  Real 
del  Rosario,  discovered  in  1655  by  the  losing  of  a rosary 
by  an  Indian  who  remained  by  the  scene  of  his  loss 
over  night,  and  who  found  in  the  morning  that  his  camp 
fire  had  melted  the  silver  from  the  ground.  Mazatlan, 
although  one  of  the  newest  of  Mexican  towns,  has  figured 
extensively  in  the  country’s  history.  The  city  was  found- 
ed jn  1822,  rebelled  against  Santa  Ana  in  1844,  and 
again  in  ’46;  was  captured  by  the  Americans  in  ’47; 
captured  by  insurgents  in  1859;  was  bombarded  by 
the  French  in  1864;  was  captured  by  Maximilian’s  forces 
in  ’66,  and  by  the  Mexicans  in  ’68,  after  which  there  was 
more  or  less  trouble  until  1877,  since  when  peace 
has  reigned.  The  town  is  delightfully  clean,  and 
quaintly  picturesque. 

Merida.  The  ancient  Maya  town,  Ti-hoo,  was 
Mer'-e-dah  on  the  site  of  the  present  City  of 
Merida,  which  was  founded  by  Don  Francisco 
de  Montijo  in  1542.  Merida  is  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Yucatan  and  its  commercial  metropolis, 
and  a city  of  the  tropics  in  every  way  worthy 
of  a visit  and  one  of  the  many  towns  in  Mexico 
noted  for  the  beauty  of  its  women.  In  the  midst 
of  a district  noted  far  and  wide  for  its 
prominent  among  which  are  Uxmal  and  Cl 
Itza.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting  city  of  at  lerdo. 

the  peninsula.  In  the  city  the  remains  of  the  old  walls,  the  ancient  churches, 
convents,  the  plazas  and  portales  are  sufficient  to  entertain  for  a protracted  visit. 
Merida  is  reached  by  rail  from  Progreso  on  the  Gulf  in  twenty-two  miles. 
There  is  rail  connection  also  with  Valladolid  in  the  interior  and  Campeche 
on  the  Gulf. 

Mitla.  The  archives  of  the  Acropolis  of  Athens  are  written,  and  the  tale 
MeetMa  of  Thebes  has  been  told  in  ancient  history;  but  that  history  runs 
not  far  enough  back  in  the  ages  to  tell  of  the  builders  of  the  temples  of 
Mitla,  Palenque  and  Uxmal,  whence  they  came,  or  where  departed.  The 


202 


parchments  that  bore  the  builders’  tracings  have  mouldered  to  ashes  in  the 
century  of  centuries,  and  the  hieroglyphics  worn  to  polished  stone  in  the 
drifting  sands  of  a passed  eternity,  till  the  tale  must  forever  remain  untold. 
Yet  stand,  as  mute  monuments,  the  chiseled  columns,  that  call  back  the  cul- 
tured civilization  of  the  mighty  men  of  Mitla,  and  Palenque’s  people,  in 
whose  temples  we  walk,  wondering  at  their  magnitude  and  magnificence;  cal- 
culating, hopelessly,  upon  the  task  that  modern  men  would  tire  under,  and 
wondering  and  wondering  how  these  walls  were  laid,  how  their  mosaics  where 
graven,  how  these  monoliths  were  raised,  and  where  their  quarries  were; 
how  they  were  brought  hence,  how  these  massive  columns  were  raised,  and 
how  the  corner  stone  was  put  in  its  place.  Afterwards  we  turn  away  in  dis- 
appointing ignorance  of  it  all,  and  hopelessly,  for  there  is  no  history,  nor 
yet  a legend,  to  fathom  the  mystery  of  it. 

You  may  find  but  little  of  the  history  or  legend  of  Mitla  from  its  people 
of  to-day  who  do  not  even  speak  the  language  of  their  neighbors,  the  Mexi- 


RUINS  OF  UXMAL. 


cans — Spanish  is  as  Greek  to  them — and  if  they  know  anything  handed  down 
from  their  fathers  they  have  not  told  the  secret.  They  call  the  name  of  the 
place,  not  Mitla,  but  Lyo-baa,  which  in  Tzapoteco  tongue  means  the  “door 
of  the  grave” — well  named,  for  here  indeed  is  the  grave  of  all  tradition. 

The  journey  to  Mitla  is  an  easy  one.  It  is  by  rail  to  Oaxaca;  thence,  over 
a wide  road,  hard  beaten  by  much  travel,  through  a valley  almost  treeless, 
save  where  the  verdure  is  along  the  banks  of  a little  rio,  or  clustered  here 
and  there  about  an  hacienda  or  straggling  village,  or  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountains  which  hedge  this  valley  in,  and  help  to  make  the  journey  a pleas- 
ant one,  with  pretty  pictures  of  scenic  beauty. 

Diligencias  or  carriages  may  be  obtained  at  Oaxaca,  and  they  will  roll 
over  the  broad  road  as  easily  and  smoothly  as  on  a street.  The  start  should 
be  made  before  noon  to  take  advantage  of  the  afternoon  breezes  that  almost 
always  blow  from  the  south  and  across  the  road;  let  this  be  the  hour  of  start- 
ing in  the  winter  months;  if  there  is  a moon  in  the  last  quarters  or  at  the 
full  this  will  bring  you  to  Mitla  by  or  a little  after  dark  and  you  may  have 
the  weird  pleasure  of  wandering  through  the  ruins  by  moonlight.  In  the 
dark  of  the  moon  start  by  eleven  a.  m.  and  in  the  summer  by  seven  or  eight 


Road  from 


203 


5=1 


= S 


go5 

. . . 

^b§sSh 


BIRDSEYE  VIEW-  RUINS  OF  MITLA 


204 


in  the  morning  to  avoid  the  almost  every  afternoon  rain.  Returning  the  same 
rules  may  be  followed. 

Lunches  may  be  taken  from  Oaxaca,  but  this  is  not  necessary;  the  Hotel 
Cerqueda  at  Tlacolula,  the  little  more  than  half  way  town,  is  surprisingly 

good,  where  good  cof- 
fee, fine,  native  choco- 
late, excellent  bread, 
and  fruits  may  be  ob- 
tained, and  at  the  haci- 
enda of  the  muy  amable^ 
Sehor  Don  Felix 
Quero,  at  Mitla,  there 
are  good  beds,  and  an 
excellent  dinner  is 
served,  by  a genial  host, 
who  will  welcome  in 
cordiality  and  speed  the 
parting  guest  with  good 
wishes,  till  you  will, 
A MITLA  TEAM.  with  the  memories  of 

the  wonders,  the  pleasant  journey  and  the  good  living,  bless  the  day  you 
came  to  Mitla. 

The  only  rough  part  of  the  road  is  over  the  stony  pavements  of  Oaxaca; 
after  that  it  is  up  hill  and  down  dale,  but  easy  rolling  all  the  way,  with  plenty 
to  interest  in  every  mile,  from  the  city  gates  and  the  old  stone  bridge  just 
without  its  boundaries,  down  to  the  big  trees  of  Tule.  You  have  told  your 
driver  that  if  he  drives  there  is  something  in  it  for  his  own  account,  and  he 
will  drive — but  there  must  be  a stop  at  Tule.  The  village  is  in  a grove  of 
trees,  and  a turn  out  to  the  right  is  through  an  avenue  of  tropical  verdure 
that  all  but  shuts  out  the  sunlight.  It  is  scarcely  a quarter  of  a mile  from 
the  main  road  to  the 
big  tree.  The  popu- 
lace will  turn  out  to 
greet  you,  in  a kindly 
way,  and,  from  the 
purest  curiosity,  fol- 
low you  about.  The 
big  tree  of  Tule  is  in 
the  church  yard  of 
Santa  Maria  del 
Tule.  A great  grand- 
father of  trees,  that 
must  have  been  still 
a great  tree  long  be- 
fore the  Spaniards 
came,  or  even  while 
the  builders  were  at 
the  temples  of  Mitla. 

It  is  feet  and  2 


inches  around  the  big  tree  of  tule. 

trunk,  six  feet  from  the  ground,  and,  as  a native  says,  “it  takes  two  looks  to 
see  the  top.”  To  give  a better  idea  of  its  immense  size:  if  twenty-eight  people 
with  outstretched  arms,  touching  each  other’s  fingertips,  stood  around  the 
trunk,  they  could  barely  complete  the  circuit, 


205 


On  the  east  side  of  this 
giant  of  the  forest  is  a 
wooden  tablet,  with  an  in- 
scription signed  by  Hum- 
boldt, the  great  German 
traveler,  and  probably 
placed  there  by  him,  or  by 
his  order.  It  has  been  there 
so  long  that  the  bark  has 
grown  over  it,  almost  com- 
pletely embodying  it  in  the 
tree,  and  partially  obscur- 
ing the  inscription,  so  that 
the  beginning  and  ending 
of  the  lines  cannot  be  read. 
In  the  native  tongue  the 
tree  is  an  ahuehuetl^  a 
species  of  cypress.  Back 
on  the  main  road  again, 
and  the  little  mules  go  in  a 
gallop  across  the  valley, 
then  over  the  barren  foot- 
hill of  the  mountain,  with 
still  a broad  even  road, 
though  at  a slower  gait  till 
the  turn  at  the  top,  then 
you  may  go  as  fast  as  you 
please.  There  is  a pretty 
view  from  this  hill,  back  to 
one  valley  of  green  fields, 
and  forward  to  another. 
Looking  toward  the  valley 
to  the  south  there  is  seen 
what  seems  to  be  a vast 
pyramid,  m the  midst  of  it, 
perfect  in  shape,  but  on 
closer  view  it  is  found  to  be 
covered  with  small  trees,  but 
it  may  be  a pyramid  for  all 
that.  We  are  in  a land  of 
mysterious  wonders,  and 
there  may  be  yet  undiscov- 
ered relics  of  the  forgotten 
ages,  or  you  may  take  the 
lower  road  and  pass 
through  the  quaint  old 
town  of  Tlacochahuaya;  on 
either  road,  though,  you 
will  see  the  white  towers  o^ 
the  little  villages  of  the  val- 
ley, and  the  driver  will 
point  out  the  spot  where 
lies  the  larger  town  of 
Tlacolula.  You  can  take 


HUMBOLDT  PANEL,  BIG  TREE  OF  TULE. 


206 

your  time  for  luncheon  and  coffee  at  the  Hotel  Cerqueda  at  Tlacolula,  and, 
while  it  is  being  prepared,  you  may  walk  across  the  market  place  and  come 
to  the  Plaza  of  the  Casa  Municipal,  and  a very  pretty  one,  indeed;  then  come 
back  through  the  church  yard,  and  through  the  quaint  old  church  of  the  parish. 
If  you  are  not  indeed  hard  to  please,  you  will  not  regret  the  luncheon  at 
Tlacolula — still  1 have  not  advised  to  start  on  the  journey  without  a basket. 

The  mules  have  rested,  the  drivers  been  refreshed,  and  it  is  a whip  and 
a hurrah  through  the  streets  of  the  east  side  of  the  town,  with  a hundred 
dogs  coming  out  to  bark  at  your  flying  wheels;  down  through  the  cactus- 
hedged  lanes,  and  on  into  the  fields  again,  with  the  greater  part  of  the  jour- 
ney behind  you,  and  a down-grade  road  to  Mitla.  On  the  right  is  the  val- 


TOMB  ON  MOUNT  GUIRI,  NEAR  MITLA. 

ley;  on  the  left  the  mountains  have  come  closer,  till  there  are  huge  boulders, 
of  thousands  of  tons,  that  may  have  rolled  down  from  them  and  lodged  on 
the  smaller  hills,  close  to  the  roadside;  not  one  or  a dozen,  but  hundreds  of 
them,  probably  shaken  from  their  places  by  some  violent  quaking  of  the 
earth.  There  are  a few  miles  of  this,  then,  across  a wide,  rocky  bed  of  a 
large  river,  in  the  rainy  season,  though  only  a rivulet  now,  and  up  the  hill 
on  the  other  side,  and  you  are  at  Mitla — at  the  hospitable  door  of  Don  Felix 
Quero. 

An  exchange  of  courtesies  with  Don  Felix,  rooms  arranged  for,  the  order 
for  dinner  given,  and  you  are  ready  for  the  ruins. 

If  the  journey  has  been  well  done,  without  delay,  you  should  reach  the 
ruins  within  six  hours,  allowing  twenty  minutes  at  the  Big  Tree  and  ten 
minutes  at  Tlacochahuaya.  Luncheon  at  Tlacolula  will  make  the  running  time 


207 


little  more  than  four  hours,  which  with  good  teams  has  been  done  many  times 
in  winter,  but  in  summer  it  takes  longer  on  account  of  rains. 

It  is  only  five  minutes  walk  from  the  hacienda  to  the  Ruins,  through  a 
straggling  village  of  thatched  huts,  through  narrow  streets  hedged  with  giant 
cacti.  Pass  out  the  door  of  the  hacienda,  turn  to  the  left  at  the  corner,  turn 
again  to  the  left  around  the  white  walls,  on  northward  through  the  lane, 
across  the  dry  bed  of  the  rio  and  on  the  right  of  the  road  just  at  the  top 
of  the  opposite  bank  are  the  first  remains  of  the  ruined  city.  After  passing 
these  bear  to  the  right  towards  the  church  on  the  hill  and  in  a moment  you 
stand  within  the  graven  walls  of  a temple  that  may  be  older  than  Solomon’s. 

I have  called  them  temples,  and  temples  they  may  have  been,  raised  to 
the  honor  of  the  gods  their  builders  worshiped,  though  there  is  little  simi- 
larity to  the  teocalis  found  in  the  city  of  Tenochtitlan  and  the  other  cities 
of  Anahuac  on  the  plains  to  the  north.  These  low  walls  differ  radically  in 
their  construction  and  decoration  from  the  high  pyramidal  temples  of  the 
Toltecs,  though  the  absence  of  arches  in  the  temples  of  Mitla  would  indicate 
that  the  builders  were  of  the  same  school,  as  the  Toltecs  had  no  arches  in 
their  architecture  and  for  the 
most  part  avoided  curves  and 
circular  decoration.  If  not  a 
temple,  then  it  may  have  been 
a fortress,  a most  impregnable 
one,  and  unless  the  instru- 
ments of  war  were  more  for- 
midable than  those  of  latei 
generations,  or  even  those  of 
the  present  day,  the  thick 
walls  would  have  resisted  the 
most  persistent  assaults.  The 
fortress  idea  further  obtains 
from  the  fact  that  there  are 
no  windows  or  other  openings 
in  the  walls,  and  the  only  en- 
trances open  into  the  inner 
square  or  plaza;  for  these 
reasons  the  fortress  idea  is  in 
favor,  but  the  people  of  the 
earlier  ages  did  not  need  such  formidable  works  of  defense.  The 
palace  of  a king  or  mighty  chieftain  may  have  been  within  these  walls 
— the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths,  a banquet  hall,  the  Corridor  of  Mosaics,  a 
royal  bed  chamber,  and  the  central  court  might  have  been  the  throne  room 
and  audience  hall,  but  I adhere  to  a first  impression  and  say,  here  was  once 
a great  temple.  This  may  have  been  one  temple,  or  two  of  four  courts 
each.  There  are  in  each  of  the  north  and  south  groups  four  walled  couHs 
facing  about  an  open  patio,  lying  exactly  at  the  four  points  of  the  com- 
pass, with  their  walls  on  lines  true  to  the  needle.  Of  the  southern  group, 
only  three  of  the  courts  have  the  walls  standing.  The  east  wall  is  in  the 
best  condition,  next  the  north,  while  the  south  is  almost  crumbled  away,  and 
the  west  is  but  a heap  of  stones. 

The  heavy  cap  piece  of  the  entrance  to  the  north  court  is  supported  in 
the  center  by  a huge  column  of  hewn  stone.  Under  it  leads  a passage  un- 
derground, that  may  have  extended  to  the  other  courts,  as  there  is  a sub- 
terranean gallery  running  the  entire  length  of  the  court,  east  and  west,  with 
a short  extension  due  north,  and  these  may  have  existed,  also,  in  the  other 


208 


courts  of  this  great  temple.  In  the  north  group  the  north  court  is  in  the 
finest  state  of  preservation,  and  gives  ample  evidence  of  the  magnificent 
handiwork  of  the  men  of  a buried  and  forgotten  race,  whose  civilization  is 
attested  in  the  intricate  carvings  here;  in  the  shaping  of  these  stones;  in 

the  lifting  them  from  their  quarries,  and  setting  them  in  their  places,  as 

with  a mason’s  tact,  that  all  the  earth’s  tremblings  have  not  shaken,  nor 
the  warring  elements  effaced  their  gravings.  The  north  court  is  built  on  the 
same  plan  with  the  others;  its  walls  are  in  a most  complete  state.  The  en- 
trances of  all  the  courts  open  into  the  open  patio  in  the  center,  with  no  open- 
ings at  all  in  the  outer  walls.  There  are  no  windows  anywhere. 

In  the  north  court  and  extending  its  entire  length  is  a grand  corridor, 

called  the  Hall  of  the  Monoliths.  Here  are  six  massive  columns,  nearly 


EAST  SIDE,  NORTH  COURT. 

seven  feet  in  circumference  and  twelve  feet  high,  ranging  down  the  center 
of  the  hall.  An  under-the-walls  passage  leads  to  a second  larger  room,  whose 
walls  also  face  the  compass  points.  This  room  is  surrounded  by  fom*  smaller 
ones,  the  one  on  the  west  side  being  in  an  almost  complete  state.  The  walls 
are  laid  in  the  most  intricate  mosaics,  of  small  pieces  and  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  unique  designs,  fitted  and  put  together  without  mortar  or  cement. 
In  each  one  of  the  courts  of  all  the  groups  are  niches,  square,  faced  with 
heavy  stones  set  in  the  walls  as  if  intended  for  the  shrines  of  household  gods. 

The  ancient  races  of  this  land  had  no  arches  in  their  architecture,  as  is 
evidenced  by  everything  that  is  left  of  their  meager  history,  and  here,  over 
their  square-cut  doorways,  are  magnificent  monoliths,  twelve  to  eighteen  feet 
long  four  to  six  feet  in  width,  and  three  to  five  feet  in  thickness.  The  east 
court  of  the  north  group  has  only  part  of  the  front  wall  standing,  and  two 


SOUTH  FRONT,  HALL  OF  THE  MONOLITHS. 


209 


210 


columns  which  show  that  there  was  here  also  a hall  with  the  monolith  columns; 
the  massive  lintel  that  was  over  the  door  has  been  thrown  down. 

Down  the  hill  towards  the  village,  in  the  midst  of  some  huts  of  cane,  is 
a modern  discovery,  which  the  Indian  guide  calls  ‘‘the  sepulcher,”  long  used 
as  a corn  bin.  It  is  about  eight  feet  long  and  six  feet  wide,  and  below  the 
level  of  the  ground.  The  architecture  and  cutting  of  the  stone  is  exactly  the 
same  as  in  the  larger  ruins  on  the  hill. 

The  old  church  on  the  hill  has  its  walls  and  foundations  laid  in  the  walls 
and  foundations  of  another  group  of  the  pre-historic  temples — probably  the 
oldest  foundation  and  walls  of  any  Christian  Church  in  the  world.  The  same 
stone  carvings  and  inlaid  work  of  the  other  ruins  are  found  in  both  the  ex- 
terior and  interior  of  the  church,  and  much  of  the  material  of  the  temple 
walls  has  been  taken  to  build  the  church.  Back  of  the  church  in  one  great 
chamber  now  used  as  a stable  are  several  patches  of  the  hard  red  paint  show- 
ing some  of  the  hieroglyphics  that  once  adorned  the  walls.  The  view  from 
the  tower  of  the  church  will  give  a better  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  ruined 
city.  Looking  to  the  south  are  the  walls  that  extend  to  the  banks  of  the  rio, 
to  the  westward  is  a pyramid  of  earth  and  stones  crowned  by  an  ancient  but 
yet  a more  modern  shrine ; and  across  the  rio  in  the  midst  of  the  village, 
some  other  pyramids  of  earth  and  stone  but  loosely  put  together,  yet  with- 
standing the  ravages  of  the  elements.  Leaving  the  church,  walk  down  the 
hill  near  to  temples  on  their  right,  and  after  crossing  the  rio  come  to  the 
sepulcher  and  pyramids,  and  passing  through  the  village  to  the  main  road,  and 
turning  to  the  right  come  to  the  hacienda  again. 

Of  these  ruins  no  more  may  be  written,  truthfully,  than  I have  here. 
Descriptions  may  be  elaborated,  and  yet  not  do  them  justice.  History  is  pain- 
fully silent  as  to  their  origin.  They  were  as  they  are  to-day  when  the  Spaniards 
came.  Fray  Martin  de  Valencia  visited  them  in  1533;  in  the  old  Spanish 
chronicles  notices  are  made  in  1565  and  1574,  and  Cogolludo,  who  saw  them 
in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  speaks  of  them  with  admiration,  as 
works  of  “accomplished  artists,”  of  whom  history  has  preserved  no  tradition. 
His  visit  to  these  ruins  was  written  of  in  1688. 

We  are  left  to  wonder  what  race  of  men  carved  these  walls  and  laid  their 
intricate  fittings.  Where  did  they  quarry  these  huge  stones,  and  how  were 
they  hewn  to  their  perfect  shape?  How  did  they  transport  them  hence,  and 
how  lift  them  to  their  places,  since  men  enough  could  not  get  around  one  to 
lift  it?  What  edged  tools  could  cut  their  flinty  substance,  since  only  chisels 
and  axes  of  soft,  untempered  copper  have  been  found?  All  is  deeply,  darkly 
secret  against  all  research.  We  come  to  them,  and  go  away,  knowing  as  little 
as  before  we  came,  and  pass  on  with  a silent  salute  to  the  artisans  of  so 
enlightened  a race,  whose  work  has  made  the  arrogance  of  the  twentieth 
century  silent  in  its  wonder  and  admiration. 

These  ruins  have  withstood  the  ravages  of  time,  perhaps  a thousand  cen- 
turies, but  here  cometh,  in  this  day  and  generation,  a destroyer  who  can 
destroy  in  a year  what  may  not  be  built  in  a hundred ; may  do  what  time  and 
the  elements  have  not  done  in  a thousand.  The  relic  hunter  comes  to  take 

away  what  the  sands  have  not  covered  up.  Let  him  who  reads  these  lines 

beware.  Let  him  look  upon  these  walls,  but  not  lay  his  hand  upon  them  to 
take  their  smallest  pebble.  And  if  any  man  shall  show  you  a stone,  and  say 

that  it  came  from  the  walls  of  the  Ruins  of  Mitla,  say  to  him  that  he  is  a 

vandal ; for  that  he  is,  indeed  and  in  truth. 

Thus  were  these  ruins  when  I came  to  them  in  1894 ; thus  they  were  when 
the  ancient  chronicler  saw  them,  when  Humboldt  and  Du  Paix  took  their  long 


^11 


journeys  thence — no  change  had  taken  place;  but  recent  excavations  have 
revealed  new  mysteries  in  hidden  walls  and  pavements,  tombs  and  subterranean 
chambers. 

In  1900  the  debris  was  removed  from  the  patio  of  the  north  court  and  a 
hard  cement  pavement  with  cut-stone  curbing  and  borders  uncovered.  In  1902 
a similar  work  in  the  south  court  showed  another  pavement  with  a sealed 
entrance,  which  on  being  opened  disclosed  a beautiful  subterranean  chamber, 
cruciform,  about  thirty  by  forty  feet  under  the  east  edifice  of  that  court,  and 
with  the  same  mural  decorations  as  are  in  the  chambers  above. 

The  excavations  at  Mitla  and  in  the  surrounding  valley  have  been  made 
under  the  supervision  of  Senor  Don  Leopoldo  Batres,  who,  as  the  representative 
of  the  Supreme  Government  of  Mexico,  has  charge  of  all  such  work  within  the 
Republic.  Professor  Saville,  representing  the  New  York  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  has  ably  assisted  Senor  Batres.  Great  honor  is  due  these  eminent 
archaeologists  for  their  work  in  Mitla  of  Mysteries. 

At  this  writing  the  good  work  of  excavation,  restoration  and  preservation 
is  progressing  so  that  no  permanent  book  may  give  the  details  up  to  date. 

All  over  this  valley  of  mysteries  new  discoveries  are  being  made,  and  only 
the  daily  paper,  or  the  magazine,  may  give  the  latest  details  of  what  has  been 
found  at  Mitla. 

Monclova  has  a history,  and  seems  to  be  content  with  it.  When  Texas 

Mon-clo'-va  and  Coahuila  were  one  State,  Monclova  was  the  capital ; now 

it  is  the  capital  of  neither,  Texas  having  one  of  her  own,  and  that  of  Coahuila 
having  been  removed  to  Saltillo.  Monclova  is  in  the  center  of  a rich  mining 
district;  the  most  important  are  the  mines  Cuatro  Cienegas  and  Sierra  Mojada. 
Monclova  is  a very  old  town,  and  as  such  is  a very  interesting  one.  It  was 
named  for  the  Viceroy  Melchor  Portocarrero  Lazo  de  la  Vega,  Conde  de  la 
Monclova,  but  for  obvious  reasons  has  not  retained  the  entire  name,  which 
is  to  be  applauded  if  for  no  other  reason  than  for  the  benefit  of  the  trainman 
who  calls  the  stations,  along  the  line,  since  he  has  such  inferior  success  with 
the  shorter  ones.  Monclova  is  on  the  Mexican  International  Railroad,  942 
miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico.  It  is  in  the  State  of  Coahuila. 

Monterey.  The  Spaniards  had  penetrated  far  into  the  interior  and  to 

Mon-te-ray'  the  northward,  before  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 

and  in  1560  had  reached  near  the  now  American  border.  In  that  year  they 
founded  the  town  of  Santa  Lucia,  that  was  afterwards  called  Monterey  in 
honor  of  the  then  viceroy,  Don  Caspar  de  Zuniga,  Conde  de  Monterey,  the 
permanent  settlement  being  made  in  September  of  1596  by  Fray  Diego  de 
Leon.  If  he  had  sought  the  countr}^  over  he  could  not  have,  found  a more 
lovely  site  for  a city  than  in  this  valley  of  level  lands.  It  is  completely  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills,  curiously  shaped,  and  the  prettiest  in  Mexico.  So 
curiously  shaped  are  their  dark  blue  outlines,  clear  cut  against  the  sky,  that 
the  one,  Cerro  de  la  Silla,  4,149  feet  above  the  plain,  is  a perfect  saddle  of 
the  military  type  known  as  the  McClellan,  and,  at  the  peak,  is  shaped  exactly 
like  the  saddles  seen  in  Mexico,  requiring  no  stretch  of  the  imagination,  as  in 
the  case  of  the  old  Man  of  the  Mountain  and  Anthony’s  Nose,  the  saddle 
rnountain  being  recognized  at  a glance.  The  Cerro  de  las  Mitras,  3,618  feet 
high,_  is  the  mountain  of  the  mitres.  It  does  not  so  assert  itself,  but  the  mitres 
are  just  as  compelling  as  the  saddle,  and  that  piece  of  the  bishop’s  vestments 
IS  as  discernible  to  the  average  vivid  vision.  They  are  the  bluest  of  blue 
mountains  standing  out  against  the  very  bluest  sky,  and  the  marvelously  clear 
atmosphere  is  responsible  for  it  all. 

These  mountains  surround  a lovely  valley,  watered  by  clear  running  streams 


212 


and  carpeted  by  the  green  of  fertile  fields  that  are  brightened  further  by 
flowering  gardens,  with  great  trees  to  shade  the  lanes  and  streets.  In  the 
midst  of  this  is  Monterey,  as  quaintly  novel  as  the  valley  is  very  beautiful. 

Here,  through  the  city,  there  runs  a living  stream  of  cold,  clear  water 
that  has  its  source  in  the  great  spring,  the  Ojo  de  Agua.  Along  its  banks  the 
people  come  to  bathe  under  the  shade  of  the  overhanging  foliage.  On  a 
bridge.  La  Purisima,  where  one  of  the  principal  streets  crosses  this  stream, 
the  Mexicans  made  a valiant  stand  against  the  advancing  Americans  in  ’46, 
and  while,  as  the  legend  says,  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  hovered  over  the 
banners  of  Mexico,  they  held  the  pass  as  the  Spartans  at  Thermopylae. 

In  the  western  part  of  the  city  are  the  casas  de  recreo^  a semi-suburban 
district  where  the  houses  are  in  beautiful  gardens  of  fruits  and  flowers,  with 
streams  of  running  water  and  fountains  under  beautiful  trees.  These  are 
reached  by  horse  cars,  as  are  all  of  the  points  of  interest  in  and  around  Mon- 
terey. Special  cars  may  be  hired  at  reasonable  rates,  and  they  are  much 
to  be  preferred  to  the  carriages  that  rattle  in  an  uncertain  way  over  the  stony 
streets;  especially  are  the  horse  cars  to  be  preferred  for  the  rides  to  the 
Bishop’s  Palace  and  to  Topo  Chico.  The  Bishop’s  Palace  is  a very  picturesque 
old  ruin  on  a high  hill  northwest  of  the  city,  seen  from  almost  every  part 
of  it  and  from  the  cars.  The  Palace  was  commenced  in  1782  and  completed 
in  1790,  by  Bishop  Verger,  for  a summer  residence.  It  is  now  fallen  into 
disuse,  and  occupied  solely  by  two  sentries,  whose  lonely  watches  are  changed 
once  a month.  These  two  are  but  a memory  of  the  gallant  army  that  de- 
fended the  hill  against  the  assaulting  Americans,  under  General  Worth,  on 
the  21  St  of  September,  1849,  when  the  capture  of  the  hill  meant  the  surrender 
of  the  city.  It  is  a pleasant  ride  across  the  plain  to  the  Hot  Springs  of  Topo 
Chico.  The  wonderful  hot  waters  issue  from  the  side  of  a hill  about  three 
miles  to  the  north.  The  ride  through  the  fields  is  a pleasant  one,  and  at 
the  end  of  it  there  are  pavilions,  baths  and  a good  hotel.  The  legend  of 
Montezuma’s  daughter,  her  journey  to  Topo  Chico  and  miraculous  cure  by 
the  all-healing  waters,  lives  in  the  centuries  after  her — how  she  came  from 
the  far-away  Hill  of  the  Grasshopper,  a weak  and  puny  maiden,  but  when 
she  came  again  to  Chapultepec  it  was  with  renewed  life  and  vigor,  to  the 
rejoicing  of  all.  The  court  of  the  plumed  and  feathered  king  became,  at 
once,  agents  for  the  Topo  Chico  springs.  The  waters  are  only  to  be  bathed 
in  to  insure  their  own  recommendation,  and  they  so  resemble  the  great  Hot 
Springs  of  Arkansas  that  they  are  only  to  be  as  well  known  to  make  them 
equally  popular. 

The  other  excursions  by  horse  car  and  carriage  from  Monterey  are  to 
Santa  Catarina  and  the  chapels  of  Guadalupe  and  Lourdes,  and  eight  miles 
further  to  El  Potrero,  the  road  leading  through  a beautiful  canon  to  a valley 
of  meadows  surrounded  by  mountains.  About  nineteen  miles  south  of  the 
city,  reached  by  rail,  are  two  wonderful  caves  near  the  little  village  of  Pes- 
queria.  A visit  to  the  near-bj  mines  by  means  of  the  little  narrow  gauge 
railroads  will  prove  interesting. 

The  only  really  old  church  of  Monterey  is  that  of  San  Francisco,  dating 
from  1560.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1730,  though  there  are  some 
of  the  old  ruins  adjoining  it,  near  the  Plaza  Mayor,  where  there  is  a pic- 
turesque old  convent  with  a garden.  The  Cathedral  is  a massive  structure 
after  the  style  of  the  average  church  of  Mexico;  it  was  commenced  in  1792, 
finished  in  1833,  and  consecrated  on  the  4th  of  July  of  that  year.  It  was 
used  as  a powder  magazine  during  the  American  war,  and  its  walls  and 
towers  give  evidence  in  their  scars  of  the  vicissitudes  of  war. 

The  main  plaza  is  a very  pretty  one  indeed;  it  is,  in  fact,  two  plazas,  with 


213 


the  Casa  Municipal  between  them.  At  the  east  end  is  the  Cathedral,  and 
just  south  of  it  is  the  Episcopal  Palace.  Near  by  is  the  State  House  and 


gNTRANQE  TO  SUgTERRANEAN  CHAMBER, 

Theatre  and  the  Casino,  one  of  the  finest  club  houses  in  the  country, 
Alameda  and  Campo  Santo  are  in  the  northwest  of  the  city. 


The 


214 


HALL  OF  THE  MONOLITHS, 


216 


Monterey  is  a much  Americanized  city,  with  its  great  smelters,  factories 
and  breweries,  but  it  is  Mexican  withal,  and  is  a most  delightful  first-view 
town  across  the  border.  Monterey  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Mexican  National 
and  the  Monterey  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  and  the  terminus  of  a branch 
of  the  Mexican  International  that  connects  with  the  main  line  at  Reata ; Mon- 
terey is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Nuevo  Leon,  and  is  distant  from  the  City 


THE  AUDIENCE  CHAMBER. 

of  Mexico  667  miles.  Horse  cars  run  from  railway  stations  to  the  Plaza 
Mayor. 

Morelia.  Than  Morelia  there  is  no  more  lovely  city  in  all  Mexico, 
Mo-ray'-lia  and  its  people  are  content  with  it,  to  remain  within  its  walls, 
going  not  abroad  except  where  business  calls,  and  that  only  when  it  is  most 
urgent;  when  you  have  seen  them  in  their  homes  there  will  be  no  wonder 


216 


wwm 


217 


at  their  contentment.  In  the  olden  days  when  the  Viceroys  of  Spain  or  their 
emissaries  were  going  about  in  Mexico  founding  cities,  they,  with  one  ac- 
cord, seemed  to  have  had  an  eye  for  the  beautiful  in  the  selection  of  a site, 
and  particularly  did  Mendoza  have  when  in  1541  he  founded  the  city  of  Val- 
ladolid, (now  called  Morelia  in  honor  of  the  patriot  Morelos),  when,  as  the 
ancient  chronicler  says,  the  Viceroy  found  a site  having  the  seven  qualities 
of  Plato,  and  founded  a small  but  very  noble  city,  now  grown  to  a large 
and  nobler  city,  whose  towers  are  seen  from  afar  with  their  belfries  and 
crosses  peeping  over  the  intervening  hills.  There  is  a “saddle”  mountain  at 
Morelia  and  others  as  curiously  shaped  on  all  sides,  sloping  down  to  smaller 
undulating  hills  and  valleys  in  the  midst  of  which  the  city  is.  Coming  from 
the  east  the  track  runs  along  the  river  bank,  where  a large  proportion  of 
the  populace  do  congregate  for  the  launder  of  their  clothes  and  themselves. 
It  is  a pretty  river  with  great  overhanging  trees  on  either  shore,  making 
dark  shadows  over  the  waters,  and  a cooling  shade  protecting  from  rays  of 
a southern  sun.  The  river  is  on  the  north  of  the  track,  and  the  scene  from 
the  windows  on  that  side  is  novel  and  interesting  for  a mile  or  more  before 
the  station  is  reached. 


EL  PUENTE  DEL  OJO  DE  AGUA,  MONTEREY. 


Horse  cars  run  from  the  station  to  the  pretty  plaza,  to  the  very  excellent 
hotels  of  Morelia  and  beyond  to  the  suburbs,  where  there  are  the  most  charm- 
ing and  cosiest  flower-embowered  homes  in  the  world.  It  is  a pleasant  horse- 
car  ride,  but  it  is  best  to  leave  the  car  just  where  it  starts  down  the  hill 
by  the  old  aqueduct  and  passes  under  its  arches — then  walk  through  the  Cal- 
zada  de  Guadalupe,  a wide  stone-paved  paseo  that  leads  to  the  Parque  de 
San  Pedro.  On  each  side  is  a massive  stone  balustrade,  and  at  intervals 
convenient  resting  places  on  the  benches,  also  of  stone.  There  are  two  rows 
of  tall  trees  with  intertwining  branches  above,  lending  a constant  shade  over 
the  causeway  and  over  the  houses  on  both  sides.  The  Calzada  was  com- 
menced in  1732  and  the  work  designed  by  Bishop  Calatayud  was  intended 
to  afiford  an  easy  and  pleasant  walk  to  the  Santuario  de  Guadalupe.  If  you 
have  never  seen  the  Mexican  home  that  you  may  have  read  of,  and  which 
you  may  have  thought  was  described  extravagantly,  you  may  see  it  here. 
If  haply  some  arched  doorway  is  swung  ajar  you  may  have  a glimpse  of 
fgiiry-land  that  you  would  n^v^r  dreum  could  exist  behind  such  cold  gray 


218 


wall.  The  patio  is  filled  with  flowers;  some  vines  have  climbed  to  the  upper 
galleries  and  almost  hidden  them  with  a bank  of  blossoms,  blending  in  a 
perfect  harmony  of  color  from  a deep  carnation  to  a delicate  pink,  relieved 
by  tints  of  blue  and  purple,  with  here  and  there  some  white  and  gold  flowers. 
From  a bed  of  flowers  in  the  center,  sparkling  waters,  as  if  from  their  petals 
instead  of  from  hidden  jets,  fly  in  crystal  globules  to  the  overhanging  leaves 
of  a feathery  palm.  You  may  not  see  the  birds,  there  are  so  many  flowers  to 
hide  them,  but  the  twittering,  the  whistling  and  singing  in  a hundred  notes 
tell  that  they  are  there.  Such  are  the  homes  of  the  Calzada  de  Guadalupe 
that  leads  from  the  city  to  the  Parque  de  San  Pedro,  a park  of  great  beauty, 
shadowed  by  a forest  of  great  trees,  a favorite  resort  of  the  people.  Through 
the  park  runs  the  old  aqueduct  built  by  the  good  Fray  Antonio  de  San 


AQUEDUCT  AT  MORELIA. 

Miguel  Iglesias,  in  the  year  of  the  famine,  1785,  as  a means  to  provide  food 
for  the  people.  Under  one  of  the  high  arches  is  a tablet  commemorating  the 
bishop’s  charity. 

The  Cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  all  Mexico,  and  the  Palacio  de  Gobierno 
stand  facing  each  other  in  the  city’s  center,  fronting  the  plazas.  The  main 
plaza  is  called  the  Plaza  of  the  Martyrs,  commemorative  of  the  execution 
here  of  a company  of  patriots  in  1830,  and  here  also  Matamoros  was  exe- 
cuted ten  years  later.  The  plaza  east  of  the  Cathedral  is  that  of  La  Paz 
where  the  market  is,  and  where  may  be  bought  the  dulces  for  which  the 
town  is  noted,  and  also  the  curious  pottery  of  Uruapam;  the  other  plaza  is 
that  of  San  Francisco,  in  front  of  the  church  of  the  same  name.  In  the  Plaza 
dc  lo3  Martires  the  band  plays,  under  a beautiful  pagoda  in  the  midst  of  a 


219 


garden  of  trees  and  flowers;  here  the  people  most  do  congregate,  and  here 
may  Morelia’s  folks  be  seen  at  their  best,  (in  the  evenings  when  there’s  music, 
as  there  is  two  or  three  times  a week),  men  of  high  and  low  degree,  women 
who  wear  the  mantilla  and  her  more  lowly  sister  of  the  tapalo  and  of  the 
reboso,  both  showing  the  beauty  of  the  city’s  people. 

The  Hotel  Oseguera  is  a part  of  the  building  that  was  erected  for  the 
bishop’s  palace,  but  as  its  cost  created  talk  among  the  people,  it  was  aban- 
doned to  more  profane  uses  and  became  a hotel,  and  one  of  the  best  and 
most  unique  in  the  land.  The  Hotel  Michoacan  has  also  a convent  legend. 
The  Ocampo  Theatre  is  the  chief  place  of  amusement,  excepting  always  the 
Plaza  de  Toros,  built  after  the  fashion  of  the  bull-rings  of  old  Spain,  entirely 
of  stone,  very  substantial  and  of  immense  seating  capacity. 

The  house  in  which  Morelos  was  born  September  30th,  1765,  is  at  the 
second  corner  south  from  the  Cathedral;  it  has  a tablet  recording  the  event. 
In  the  first  block  east  of  the  Cathedral  and  half  way  of  the  block  is  the 
house  in  which  Yturbide  was  born. 

Of  the  churches,  of  course  the  Cathedral  is  the  most  prominent,  in  fact 
there  are  few  finer  edifices  anywhere  than  the  Cathedral  at  Morelia;  its 
towers,  the  great  organ,  the  silver  altar  rails,  vestments  and  vessels,  images 
and  candelabra,  all  of  fine  silver,  have  not  an  equal — though  what  is  there 
now  is  only  a remnant,  nearly  half  a million  dollars’  worth  having  been 
confiscated  by  the  government  in  1858,  for  the  refusal  to  pay  a levy  of 
$100,000,  and  one  wonders  how  it  all  could  have  been  used  and  where  to  put 
it.  There  are  some  interesting  pictures  and  handsome  carvings  and  the  silver 
font  in  which  Iturbide  and  Morelos  were  baptized.  The  Cathedral  was  founded 
at  Tzintzuntzan  in  1538,  was  removed  to  Patzcuaro  in  1540,  and  finally  to 
Morelia  in  1579,  to  the  little  church  of  La  Cruz.  The  present  building  was 
begun  in  1640  and  completed  in  1706. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  was  founded  in  1531,  but  not  completed 
until  seventy  years  later;  it  is  said  that  an  underground  passage  leads  from 
the  church  to  the  fields  beyond  the  city.  The  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora 
Socorro  dates  from  1550,  and  contains  a much  venerated  image  of  that  Vir- 
gin. In  the  Santuario  de  Guadalupe  are  shown  the  chains  around  the  atrium 
that  were  once  used  to  shackle  the  prisoners  of  the  State.  The  other  churches 
are  Carmen,  1596,  with  some  fine  pictures  by  Juan  and  Nicolas  Juarez  and 
Calvera.  The  Compania  is  of  Jesuit  foundation,  a very  handsome  group  of 
buildings,  dating  from  1582.  The  churches  of  Santa  Catalina  de  Lena,  Las 
Teresas  and  Capuchinas  were  originally  convents.  La  Merced  and  San  Jose 
are  smaller  churches.  The  College  of  St.  Nicholas  is  the  oldest  college  in 
America,  having  been  founded  in  1540,  by  Bishop  Quiroga,  a portrait  of 
whom  is  preserved  in  the  building.  Among  the  pupils  of  later  years  were 
Morelos  and  Yturbide.  The  college  was  closed  during  the  wars  from  which 
the  country  suffered,  but  remains  to-day  the  oldest  and  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  institutions  in  the  country.  Morelia  has  also  a very  fine  seminary 
for  young  ladies,  however,  of  modern  establishment. 

The  surrounding  country  is  very  picturesque  and  ten  miles  west  are  the 
famous  hot  springs  of  Cuincho,  famed  for  their  cures.  Morelia  is  very  fa- 
mous in  the  country’s  history  and  suffered  greatly  in  its  wars,  and  many 
have  been  the  dire  and  dark  scenes  enacted  that  made  bloody  marks  on 
her  escutcheon;  but  the  fair  city  of  to-day  rejoices  in  honoring  her  heroes 
and  dwells  in  contentment  and  peaceful  hospitality.  The  city  was  founded  as 
the  City  of  Valladolid,  May  i8th,  1541.  September  12th,  1828,  the  name  was 
changed  to  Morelia,  in  honor  of  the  patriot  Morelos,  Morelia  is  the  capital 


220 


of  the  State  of  Michoacan;  it  is  located  on  the  western  division  of  the  Mexi- 
can National  Railroad,  225  miles  from  the  capital  of  the  Republic. 

Oaxaca.  It  was  in  the  year  of  Montezuma’s  downfall  that  the  conqueror, 
O-ah-hack'-ah  Cortez,  sent  bands  of  men,  here  and  there,  to  spy  out  the 
land  he  had  invaded.  He  had  deposed  the  Aztec  princes,  and  the  Emperor 
was  in  chains,  a humiliated  slave  to  the  Spanish  King.  There  was  a lull  in 
the  wars,  and  the  projects  of  peace  claimed  attention.  The.  open  road  of 
the  sea  at  Vera  Cruz  left  no  protection  for  the  Spanish  ships.  A surveying 
party  proceeded  down  the  coast,  guided  by  a chart  that  Montezuma  had 
shown  them,  and  found  a harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  river  Coatza- 
coalcos,  that  offered  safe  and  suitable  accommodations.  A spot  was  selected 
for  a fortified  post,  and  a detachment  of  a hundred  and  fifty  men,  under  Velas- 
quez de  Leon,  was  sent  to  form  the  colony.  The  route  of  de  Leon  was  direct 
to  the  southeast,  through  the  canons,  down  through  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca, 
where  Cortez  obtained  a grant  of  a large  tract  of  land,  and  laid  out  planta- 
tions for  the  crown.  The  estate  was  soon  so  prosperous  that  its  value  was 
more  than  twenty  thousand  gold  onzas.  The  report  gives  detailed  descrip- 
tions of  large  and  beautiful  edifices,  and  some  of  them  the  most  elaborate 
specimens  of  Indian  architecture  in  the  Province  of  Oaxaca.  The  princely 
domain  comprehended  more  than  twenty  large  towns  and  villages,  and  23,000 
vassals.  Of  these  twenty  large  towns  and  villages,  Mitla  was  one,  and  another 
was  Oaxaca. 

On  his  return  to  Spain  Cortez  was,  by  a decree  of  Charles  V,  dated  July  6, 
1529,  created  Marquis  of  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  a title  by  which  he  was  known 
in  those  days  even  more  than  by  his  own  name.  To  speak  of  “the  Marquis,” 
meant  Cortez.  The  decree  granting  the  estates  of  the  valley  was  signed  in 
the  month  of  July,  of  that  year. 

The  route  that  the  little  band  of  Velasquez  marched  over  was  down 
through  canons  where  now  runs  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad,  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Coatzacoalcos,  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Tehuantepec  Railroad. 

Oaxaca  was  a city,  then,  before  the  Spaniards  came,  and  the  date  of  its 
original  foundation  is  as  obscure  as  that  of  the  Ruins  of  Mitla,  though  there 
is  a record  saying  that  the  ancient  city  was  founded  in  i486,  and  it  is  cer- 
tain there  was  a settlement  here  much  earlier  than  that,  which  became  a city 
that  was  called  Huaxyacac,  which  means  in  the  native  language  “in  the  nose 
of  the  guajes” — the  guaje  is  a tree  useful  for  its  wood  as  well  as  its  fruit, 
a tree  that  abounds  in  this  valley,  and  each  one  of  the  various  tribes  gave 
the  town  a name  as  referring  to  the  guajes — the  Zapotecas  called  the  town 
Luhulaa,  “place  of  the  guajes;”  the  Mixtecas  called  it  Nahundua,  “land  of  the 
guajes;”  in  Mixe  it  was  called  Huac  Huim,  meaning  “within  sight  of  the 
guajes;”  the  Chinautecos  called  it  Nicuhui,  “chief  place  of  guajes;”  the  Maza- 
tecos  gave  it  the  name  of  Naxhintze,  “the  hill  of  the  guajes.”  Only  two 
tribes  gave  names  that  did  not  mean  something  about  the  “guajes,”  the  Cui- 
catecos,  called  the  place  Nahanduva,  “the  wooden  trumpet,”  and  the  Chochos 
called  it  Cunchaa,  “the  residence  of  the  supreme  authorities.”  Thus  it  may  be 
seen  in  what  a roundabout  way  the  guajes  (iVakk-kees)  came  to  name  the  town 
Oaxaca. 

The  first  foundation  of  record  was  by  a regiment  of  soldiers  sent  thither 
by  the  Emperor  Ahuizotl  as  a spy  upon  the  actions  of  Zachila  III.  Then 
the  Spaniards  came  in  1521  and  named  the  place  Antequera  from  a fancied 
resemblance  to  a town  of  that  name  in  Spain;  Juan  Cedeho  and  Hernando 
de  Badajos  were  the  leading  pioneers.  In  1526  the  parish  of  San  Marcial 
Oaxaca  was  given  the  title  of  “villa”  and  on  25th  April,  1532,  by  decree 
of  Charles  V,  Oax^c^  became  a city;  in  1535,  June  21st,  Pope  Paul  HI  estab- 


221 


lished  the  Bishopric  of  Oaxaca.  On  the  loth  of  October,  1872,  the  old  name 
of  San  Marcial  was  dropped  and  the  present  name  of  Oaxaca  de  Juarez 
adopted  in  honor  of  her  illustrious  son,  the  great  president,  Benito  Juarez, 
who  was  born  here  on  the  21st  of  March,  1806.  Little  is  known  of  the  city 
from  1560,  when  it  had  a population  of  500,  till  1790  when  it  had  14,000  people. 
This  great  increase  was  due  to  the  commerce,  chiefly  in  the  exportation  of 
cochineal,  trade  in  which  article  alone  amounted  to  over  a million  a year,  an 
industry  that  is  still  flourishing. 

When  Hidalgo,  in  1810,  declared  for  independence,  he  was  denounced  by 
the  Bishop  of  Oaxaca  as  an  instrument  of  Satan,  and  two  emissaries  named  Lo- 
pez and  Armenta,  sent  by  Hidalgo  in  the  disguise  of  venders  of  tinder,  to  spy  out 
the  land,  were  taken  and  executed,  their  heads  were  hung  up  in  the  street  where 
they  were  taken,  and  to  this  day  the  street  is  known  as  the  Calle  de  Armenta 
y Lopez;  later  there  were  several  other  executions  among  the  priests  and  dea- 
cons in  1811,  and  the  next  year  that  other  patriot  priest,  Morelos,  marched  from 
Tehuacan  with  5,000  men  and  forty  cannon.  In  Oaxaca  ^Bishop  Beigoza  preached 
a Holy  War  against  the  coming  invaders  and  got  together  a body  of  2,000 
men,  Spaniards,  priests  and  students;  Gen.  Jose  Maria  Regules  had  about 
200  Royalist  Cavalry  and  thirty-six  cannon  of  all  sizes  with  which  to  defend 
the  city. 

On  the  24th  of  November,  1812,  Morelos  arrived  in  front  of  the  city  and 
demanded  its  surrender  within  three  hours  and  as  no  reply  was  received  the 
attack  was  made  by  six  divisions  of  the  patriot  army  and  after  a weak  re- 
sistance by  the  Royalists,  Morelos’  soldiers  were  in  the  streets  of  the  city 
supported  by  a lively  fire  from  the  artillery  under  Don  Manuel  Teran  and 
the  division  under  Don  Ramon  Sesma,  who  was  assigned  to  the  storming 
of  the  Cerro  de  la  Soledad,  while  Morelos  entered  the  city  through  the  sub- 
urb of  El  Marquesado,  where  the  Mexican  Southern  Railway  station  now 
stands.  General  Don  Jose  Maria  Regules,  the  valiant  Spaniard,  was  one  of 
the  first  to  find  a place  of  safety  in  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmen, 
where  the  women  and  children  had  gone  for  protection,  from  where  a vig- 
orous firing  was  made  on  the  advancing  insurgents,  but  it  was  soon  taken 
by  them  under  the  command  of  Matamoros,  while  Teran  was  victorious  in 
the  last  stand  made  under  the  portales  in  the  Plaza. 

The  battle  was  fought  and  won  in  two  hours,  commencing  at  10  a.  m., 
was  over  at  noon  and  Morelos  in  command  of  the  city  at  one  o’clock.  The 
Royalist  officers  were  brought  before  the  victorious  Morelos,  who  paroled  all 
except  General  Regules  and  one  or  two  others,  who  were  executed  on  the 
spot  where  Armenta  and  Lopez  were  beheaded — and  the  bodies  of  these  two 
latter,  the  emissaries  of  Hidalgo,  and  of  the  two  deacons  Tinoco  and  Palacios, 
who  had  also  been  beheaded  by  the  Royalists,  were  exhumed  and  given  a 
solemn  funeral,  with  all  the  honors  of  war,  from  the  Cathedral  with  Morelos 
as  chief  mourner. 

A local  government  with  Don  Manuel  Nicolas  Bustamente  as  first  presi- 
dent of  city  council  was  established.  Morelos  departed  for  Acapulco  in  Jan- 
uary, 1813,  leaving  a garrison  of  1,000  men  under  Col.  Benito  Garcia,  who 
was  driven  out  a year  later,  in  March,  1814,  and  the  city  came  again  into 
the  hands  of  the  Royalists  and  from  that  time  on  was  taken  first  by  one 
side  and  then  by  the  other,  until  the  war  with  Spain  was  over,  and  even 
then  there  was  little  rest,  as  in  all  the  revolutions  Oaxaca  was  an  important 
base  of  operations. 

On  the  15th  of  September,  1830,  in  Oaxaca  was  born  “the  man  of  Mexico,” 
and  her  most  illustrious  son,  Porfirio  Diaz,  and,  from  the  days  of  his  early 
manhood  his  history  is  almost  the  history  of  the  city;  and  as  well  might  the 


222 


city’s  surname  be  Diaz  as  Juarez,  if  the  services  of  both  her  sons  are  con- 
sidered. The  birthplace  of  Diaz  was  in  La  Calle  de  Soledad,  Number  Ten. 

Porhrio  Diaz  commenced  his  career  in  his  native  city.  He  was  the  only 
student  who  dared  to  vote  against  the  Dictator  Santa  Ana  and  had  to  fly 
for  his  life.  Later  he  returned,  drove  Garcia  out  and  captured  the  city.  This 
was  the  beginning  of  the  association  of  Diaz  and  Juarez — though  Diaz  had 
studied  law  under  Juarez  and  Juarez  under  Ignacio  Mejia — now  the  three 

were  soldiers  in  a 
common  cause  and 
remained  loyal  to 
their  country  and 
to  each  other 
through  all  the 
stormy  times  of 
the  revolutions, 
and  the  latter  lived 
to  see  his  student 
and  student’s  stu- 
dent become  presi- 
dents of  Mexico. 
In  1858  Diaz  de- 
fended Oaxaca 
against  Gen.  Co- 
bos  and  pursued 
him  to  Jalapa. 
Again  in  i860 
Diaz  came  up 
from  Tehuantepec, 
fought  and  de- 
feated  Cobos 
again  near  the 
celebrated  Ruins 
of  Mitla.  In  1865 
the  French  under 
Marshall  Bazaine 
laid  siege  to  Oax- 
aca with  the  great- 
est expedition  of 
that  war;  Diaz 
was  again  in  com- 
mand of  the  de- 
fense of  his  own 
town.  The  siege 
of  three  weeks  de- 
prived his  soldiers 
of  all  food,  army 
stores  and  ammu- 
nition; church  bells  could  be  made  into  cannon  balls,  but  there  was  no 
bread.  On  one  of  the  last  days  Diaz  placed  a howitzer  in  one  of  the  towers  of 
the  old  convent  of  San  Francisco  and  stood  by  it  himself  till  he  was  literally 
dragged  away  by  his  offleers.  Was  finally  captured  and  taken  to  Puebla  a 
prisoner,  but  soon  escaped  and  after  numerous  skirmishes,  marched  against  the 
Imperialists  and  this  time  was  the  besieger  where  but  a little  over  a year  before 
he  was  besieged,  and  on  the  ist  of  November,  1866,  made  a triumphal  entry  into 


223 

Oaxaca  with  many  captured  cannon,  munitions  and  stores,  and  then  marched 
on  Puebla  and  the  City  of  Mexico. 

After  the  French  war  Diaz  returned  to  Oaxaca  and  the  citizens  presented 
him  in  fee  simple  the  Hacienda  de  la  Noria,  where  he  lived  for  two  years, 
the  first  of  peace  and  quiet  for  many  that  had  passed;  two  years  of  happi- 
ness with  the  wife  he  had  married  by  proxy  in  the  days  when  his  country 
had  need  of  him  and  there  was  no  time  for  marriage.  Don  Porfirio  re- 
mained in  Oaxaca  till  1874,  when  he  departed  for  the  United  States,  a pro- 
scribed man,  returned  to  his  country  to  be  made  its  President,  and  after  his 
first  term  came  back  to  Oaxaca  and  was  unanimously  elected  Governor,  and 
when  he  went  again  it  was  once  more  to  the  Presidential  chair.  So  Oaxaca 
has  been  called  ^^Morada  de  heroes  en  el  jardin  de  los  dioses,^'  a dwelling 
place  of  heroes  in  the  garden  of  the  gods. 

The  Cathedral  is  chief  among  the  churches  but  by  no  means  the  largest 
or  most  imposing  building.  The  founding  was  in  1553,  although  the  work 
on  the  walls  did  not  commence  in  earnest  until  1610,  and  then  it  was  exactly 
a hundred  and  twenty  years  before  it  was  completed.  The  cost  of  the  main 
church  with  the  sagrario  and  the  Capilla  de  Guadalupe  was  nearly  $2,000,000. 
The  first  cathedral  was  in  the  very  primitive  church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios, 
which  was  built  of  straw — the  Bishop  of  Antiquera  was  Dr.  Juan  Lopez  de 
Zarate. 

The  church  of  Santo  Domingo  is  not  only  the  most  interesting  in  this 
city,  but  there  are  few  in  the  Republic  that  form  so  much  of  its  history. 

The  interior  adornments  of  this  magnificent  church  were  the  finest  in 
Mexico;  the  life  size  figures  of  the  saints  were  in  relief  and  literally  covered 
with  gold;  so  rich  and  so  heavy  was  the  gold  in  the  walls  that  the  soldiers 
quartered  in  the  adjoining  ex-convent  employed  themselves  in  removing  it 
until  the  restoration  of  the  church  was  commenced  by  Archbishop  GiUow. 
It  is  said  that  the  enormous  sum  of  $13,000,000  was  spent  on  this  beautiful 
building,  which  if  true,  makes  it  the  most  costly  church  building  on  the  con- 
tinent. 

La  Soledad  was  founded  in  1582  and  built  at  a cost  of  $160,000.  The  ad- 
joining old  convent  is  now  used  as  a School  of  Arts. 

Of  the  other  churches  San  Juan  de  Dios  was  commenced  in  1532;  El 
Carmen  Bajo,  1544;  Las  Mercedes,  1570;  San  Cosme,  1576;  La  Compania, 
1579;  Las  Nieves,  1581;  San  Francisco,  1592;  San  Felipe,  1633;  El  Carmen 
Alto,  1679;  Guadalupe,  1686;  San  Augustin,  1699;  Consolacion,  7706;  Las 
Capuchinas,  1728;  El  Calvario,  1729;  El  Patrocinio,  1755;  Los  Princ'pes,  1782; 
Sangre  de  Cristo,  1791;  La  Defensa,  1792;  and  Betlem  in  1807.  The  most 
notable  of  the  public  buildings  is  the  State  Palace,  fronting  the  main  plaza, 
built  in  1883-5  at  a cost  of  about  $150,000. 

Among  the  other  public  buildings  are  the  Palace  of  Justice,  built  in  1872; 
Municipal  Palace,  1873;  Scientific  Institute,  1630;  State  Library,  1880;  Hospital 
General,  1865;  and  the  Hospicio  in  1876.  The  very  beautiful  cicy  of  Oaxaca 
is  at  the  junction  of  two  lovely  valleys  and  is  almost  completely  surrounded 
by  high  mountains,  the  Cerro  de  San  Felipe  del  Agua,  Monte  Alban,  and 
near  by,  the  Cerros  Creston  and  Fortin.  On  Monte  Alban  are  the  extensive 
ruins  of  a pre-historic  city;  and  five  miles  away  are  the  recently  discovered 
ruins  of  ancient  sepulchres  called  Xoxo;  in  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  are  evidences  of  the  existence  of  a civilized  race  prior 
to  the  peoples  who  were  here  at  the  time  of  and  just  before  the  conquest. 

The  approach  of  the  railroad  is  down  through  a lovely  valley.  The  towers 
may  be  seen,  above  the  trees,  while  the  train  is  yet  some  miles  away,  and 
when  it  stops  it  is  under  the  shadow  of  a high  hill  that  stands  up  on  the 


224 

east  side,  and  between  it  and  the  green  fields  on  the  other  side  of  the  track, 
stands  the  station. 

Tram-cars  lead  from  the  station  to  the  Plaza  Mayor,  passing  first  a little 
plaza  shaded  by  great  trees,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  a fountain  of  running 
water;  then  through  the  narrow  streets,  passing  the  old  Church  of  La  Soledad, 
and  stopping  at  the  plaza. 

The  main  plaza,  or  rather  plazas,  for  there  are  two  of  them,  are  very  beauti- 
ful, shaded  by  immense  trees,  and  filled  with  flowers;  the  two  join  at  the 
northeast  corner,  at  the  jutting  of  the  Cathedral  pavement.  The  main  plaza 
is  styled  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  and  in  its  center  is  a monument  to  Juarez,  who 
was  a native  of  Oaxaca,  as  is  also  General  President  Porfirio  Diaz;  the  adjoin- 
ing park  is  called  Plaza  de  Leon. 

Among  the  other  pretty  parks  are  those  of  Guadalupe,  San  Francisco,  Net- 
zahualcoyotl  and  Constitution,  and  most  charming  spots  they  are,  and  the 
grand  Paseo  or  boulevard  will  entice  you. 

One  of  the  finest  buildings  is  the  Government  Palace,  facing  the  Plaza 
de  Armas,  and  it  is,  indeed,  a palace,  with  its  arched  portales  extending  the 
entire  length  of  the  square.  The  churches  of  Santo  Domingo  and  La  Soledad 
have  been  monasteries  and  fortresses  as  well,  and  more  than  once  have  had 
cannon  within  their  walls,  that  thundered  forth  in  liberty’s  cause.  There  is 
a scientific  institute,  a seminary,  an  historical  museum,  and  a library,  by 
way  of  public  institutions.  The  houses  of  commerce  and  trade  would  do 
honor  to  a larger  city,  and  one  with  older  railroad  facilities.  There  are  good 
baths,  with  elegant  appointments,  with  tiled  floors,  full-length  mirrors,  and 
mantel  shelves  of  onyx.  The  market,  within  a square  of  the  plaza,  is  in- 
tensely interesting,  somewhat  like  the  others  of  Mexico’s  markets,  and  yet 
unlike  them,  in  the  tropic  dress  of  the  people.  Every  fruit  in  the  world  is 
offered,  and  flowers  at  ten  cents  a bushel;  the  most  exquisite  roses,  in  Feb- 
ruary, as  many  as  you  can  carry,  for  a real,  that  would  cost  a mint  of  money 
at  home. 

Oaxaca,  reached  by  the  Mexican  Southern  Railway,  is  228  miles  south- 
east of  Puebla,  boasts  of  good  hotels,  and  there  may  be  good  living  while  you 
stay  in  this  beautiful  place,  for  its  beauties  will  entice  you  to  linger,  and  the 
hospitalities  of  its  people  make  you  welcome. 

Orizaba,  was  a town  long  before  Cortez  came  and  had  a Spanish  popu- 
O-riz-ah'-ba  lation  in  1533,  when  it  had  one  of  the  unpronounceable  names 
of  the  Chichimec  Indians,  who  saw  “joy  in  the  waters”  of  the  numberless 
cascades  hereabouts  and  called  the  place  ‘‘Ahauializapan;”  but  the  Spaniards, 
not  being  able  to  call  it  that,  without  dental  danger,  from  time  to  time  cut 
out  some  of  the  letters  and  reduced  the  name  to  Orizaba. 

With  its  charming  location  in  a lovely  valley,  it  is  just  on  the  first  ter- 
race above  the  tierra  caliente,  where  the  high  hills  are  close  up  to  the  city’s 
borders  to  throw  their  shadows  across  the  red-tiled  roofs,  trees  and  gardens, 
and  domes  and  towers,  and  to  cool  the  waters  of  its  clear  running  streams 
and  fountains,  and  with  just  a glimpse  of  the  snow-capped  volcano  gleaming 
in  the  tropic  sun,  Orizaba  is  beautiful  and  very  charming. 

Horse  cars  run  from  the  station  to  the  hotels,  to  the  Alameda  and  the 
plazas,  through  the  city,  and  extend  westward  through  the  very  pretty  gardens 
to  Yngenio,  the  little  lake,  the  church  and  the  mills  at  Nogales.  The  rides 
and  drives  may  be  made  to  the  cascades  that  abound  in  these  hills;  the  first 
in  the  Rincon  Grande,  the  next  and  larger  Tuxpango,  and  two  others  near 
El  Barrio  Nuevo  and  at  Santa  Ana,  very  attractive  excursions,  occupying  only 
a few  hours;  and,  besides  las  cascadas  bonitas,  there  are  flowers  and  ferns  and 
orchids  to  be  gathered  by  the  wayside. 


225 


There  are  hills  to  be  climbed  for  the  very  fine  views  and  to  visit  historic 
spots  and  legendary  locations.  The  cross  on  the  summit  of  the  Cerro  de  Bor- 
rego, seen  from  the  cars,  marks  the  spot  where  some  French  soldiers  were 
slain,  and  the  narrow  path  up  the  side  was  their  line  of  march,  where  a party 
of  Zouaves  surprised  and  defeated  the  Mexican  forces  on  the  night  of  July 
13,  1862. 

Long  centuries  ago  the  healthful  climate  of  Orizaba  was  a resort  for  the 
fever  refugees  from  the  coast  districts,  and  remains  a favorite  in  these  modern 
days,  where  they  come  from  Vera  Cruz  and  the  Gulf  coast  cities  to  pass  the 
summer  days  under  the  shadow  of  the  hills  and  in  the  grateful  shade  of  the 
trees  beside  the  clear,  cool  waters  of  La  Joya  Valley.  The  place  was  a fa- 
vorite resort  of  Maximilian. 


ORIZABA. 

In  the  pretty  little  Alameda  is  a monument  to  Ygnacio  de  la  Llave,  one 
of  the  notable  men  of  the  town,  for  whom  the  very  fine  old  Theater  La  Llave 
was  named  when  it  was  dedicated  in  1857.  The  markets  of  Orizaba  are  es- 
pecially attractive  in  the  array  of  tropical  fruits  and  flowers,  with  their  venders 
in  the  bright  costumes  of  the  tropic  climes.  There  are  so  many  groves,  and 
gardens  that  it  is  hard  to  say  whether  the  coffee  groves  are  in  Orizaba  or 
Orizaba,  in  the  coffee  groves.  The  streets  and  plazas  are  marvelously  clean 
and  the  white-walled  houses  gleam  brightly  in  the  sun. 

The  first  parish  church,  called  El  Calvario,  and  later  Santa  Teresa,  was 
built  in  1564.  The  present  parish  church,  San  Miguel,  is  a remarkably  hand- 
some building  of  stone,  completed  in  1720,  after  nearly  fifty  years  of  build- 
ing, and  the  tower  was  not  completed  till  twelve  years  later.  The  north 
chapel  is  called  the  Corazon  de  Jesus,  and  the  southern,  the  Chapel  of  the 


226 


Rosary.  The  church  contains  a magnificently  inlaid  chest  of  ebony  and  ivory 
for  the  keeping  of  the  sacerdotal  robes  and  vestments.  The  Church  of  San 
Jose  de  Gracia  is  another  fine  group  of  chapel,  church  and  convent,  but  of 
very  modern  build,  having  been  completed  in  i8io.  The  pictures  and  frescos 
are  by  a native  artist.  Barranca — an  artist  not  without  fame  in  these  parts,  and 
whose  son  has  proved  himself  a worthy  heir  to  his  father’s  brush.  Pic- 
tures by  both  are  to  be  seen  in  all  the  churches  of  Orizaba.  About  the  year 

1600  the  Church  of  San  Juan  de  Dios  was  founded.  It  was  permanently  in- 
jured by  an  earthquake,  in  1696,  and  a new  church  was  commenced;  in  1714, 

it  was  completed,  but  the  final  completion  and  dedication  was  not  until  1763. 
It  was  originally  a hospital,  built  by  the  charitable  townsfolk,  for  the  fever 
refugees  from  the  lowlands;  the  worthy  charity  originated  by  Don  Juan  Ra- 
mon, Don  Pedro  Mexia,  and  Don  Sebastian  Maldonado  exists  to  this  day, 
but  not  as  the  original  hospital.  That  is  long  since  in  ruins.  The  healthful- 
ness of  Orizaba  is  perfect,  and  a more  charming  little  city  is  not  to  be  found 
anywhere.  Orizaba  is  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  on  the  line  of  the  Mexican 
Railway,  181  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and,  although  only  eighty-two 
miles  from  the  sea,  is  4,832  feet  above  it. 

PacHuca.  Pachuca  is  a windy  city.  The  winds  blow  down  from  the 

Pa-chew'-ka  mountains,  and  up  from  the  valleys,  and  it  seems,  sometimes, 
as  if  they  came  from  both  at  once,  blowing  hot  and  cold,  so  that  it  is  not 

essentially  a resort  town, 
except,  it  may  be,  for 
miners,  for  here  are  some 
of  the  richest  mines  in  all 
this  country.  There  are 
nearly  three  hundred 
mines  in  and  about  the 
city  and  suburbs,  and  in 
the  near-by  districts  of 
Regia  and  the  Real  del 
Monte.  The  mines  are 
said  to  have  been  discov- 
ered by  a poor  shepherd, 
nearly  four  hundred  years 
ago.  They  have  been 
worked  constantly  ever  since,  yielding  fabulous  sums  every  year,  till  it  is  im- 
possible to  say  what  the  total  has  been,  one  mine  alone,  Trinidad  of  old,  hav- 
ing yielded  nearly  $50,000,000  in  ten  years;  and  the  others,  Rosario,  Candado 
and  Xacal  have  made  many  fortunes.  The  old  “patio  process,”  or  amalga- 
mating process,  invented  by  Bartolome  de  Medina  in  1557,  was  first  used  at 
Pachuca.  The  principal  modern  mines  are  Rosario,  Santa  Gertrudis,  Cayetano 
and  the  Dolores,  but  no  accurate  estimate  can  be  put  on  the  amount  of 
treasure  that  has  been  taken  out  of  their  depths. 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  necessarily  very  crooked,  as  they  wind  up 
and  down  the  steep  hillsides,  and  are,  withal,  very  picturesque.  Among  the 
notable  buildings  is  the  Caja,  a fine  structure,  with  great  towers  above,  built 
in  1670,  by  the  Marquis  de  Mancera,  Don  Sebastian  de  Toledo,  as  a treasure- 
house  for  the  Crown,  when  the  government  had  the  exclusive  distribution 
of  quicksilver  for  use  in  extracting  silver.  The  Casa  Colorado  was  built  by 
the  Conde  de  Regia,  as  a public  granary.  This  Conde  also  built  the  aque- 
duct of  the  water  supply. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  was  founded  in  1596,  and  the  present  church 
completed  in  1660.  In  the  adjacent  chapel  of  Tercer  Orden  are  interred  the 


IRRIGATION. 


bones  of  the  good  Fray  Cristobal  de  la  Cruz.  What  is  now  the  school  of 
mines  and  mining,  was  once  a college  of  the  missionaries. 

The  great  feast  of  San  Francisco  extends  from  September  30  to  October 
8,  when  the  city  is  given  over  to  bull-fighting,  cock-fights  and  a general  good 
time,  after  the  fashion  of  the  people.  Further  up  in  the  mountains  is  the 
very  curious  Real  del  Monte,  reached  from  Pachuca,  over  a very  fine  road. 
The  town  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  mountains,  picturesque  to  a degree  in 
its  combination  of  English  houses,  with  peaked  roofs  and  chimneys,  and  the 
flat-topped  houses  of  Mexico.  The  only  town  in  Mexico  where  there  are  any 
dwellings  with  chimneys,  as  it  is  quite  cold  sometimes  and  fires  are  necessary. 


ALTAR  OF  PALENQUE. 

The  great  house  of  the  town  is  the  Maestranza,  containing  the  offices,  store- 
houses and  machine-shops  of  the  Cayetano  mine. 

In  the  year  1739,  Don  Pedro  Jose  Romero  de  Terreros,  a great  miner  of 
his  day,  and  an  operator  of  Queretaro,  was  en  route  for  his  home  in  Spain. 
He  came  to  Pachuca;  the  richness  of  the  prospect  was  too  much  for  him;  he 
stopped  here  and  spent  his  fortune,  but  remained  by  his  venture  till  he  had 
made  another  and  larger  fortune.  The  output  from  1762  to  1781,  being  over 
$12,000,000,  and  in  1818  the  total  reached  the  enormous  figure  of  $30,000,000. 
An  English  company  came  into  possession  in  1824,  with  shares  at  a par  value 
of  £100,  that  in  a year  were  sold  at  £16,000,  but  at  the  end  was  a complete 
failure.  The  mines  are  now  operated  with  satisfactory  results. 

Pachuca  is  reached  by  a branch  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  from  Tula; 
is  on  the  main  line  of  the  Hidalgo  Railroad;  on  branches  of  both  the  Hidalgo 
and  Mexican  Railways,  distant  from  the  City  84  miles. 


228 


Paletique.  Buried  in  the  forests  of  Chiapas,  under  the  tangles  of  growing 

Pal-en'-ke  vines  and  fallen  trees,  half  hidden  by  the  mold  of  centuries,  are 
the  ruins  of  a prehistoric  city  that,  what  little  of  it  the  world  knows  of  at  all  it 
calls  Palenque — named  not  for  anything  that  may  be  known  of  its  origin,  its  ap- 
pellation is  equally  as  mysterious.  In  1750  some  Spaniards  wandering  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  south  of  Mexico  came  accidentally  upon  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
city  of  some  eighteen  to  twenty  miles  in  extent,  or,  it  is  more  probable,  the 
natives  led  them  into  this  almost  impenetrable  forest  to  show  them  the  casas  de 
piedras,  “houses  of  stone.”  Prior  to  this  time  and  event  the  existence  of  such 
a city  was  unknown;  there  was  no  tradition  and  no  book  ever  made  mention 
of  these  ruins,  doubtless  older  than  Herculanaeum  and  more  extensive  than  Kar- 
nak.  In  1787  an  exploration  of  the  ruins  was  made  under  Captain  Antonio  del 
Rio  at  the  command  of  the  King  of  Spain.  The  report  of  Captain  del  Rio 
was  delayed  by  revolutions  and  went  by  way  of  Guatemala  to  London,  but 
were  not  published  till  1822.  Another  expedition  under  order  of  Charles  IV. 
of  Spain  was  made  by  Captain  Dupaix  in  1807,  hut  his  report  was  not  pub- 
lished until  1834.  Previous  to  1831  Colonel  Golindo  made  an  expedition  to 
Palenque,  an  account  of  which  was  published  in  the  Literary  Gazette  of  that 
year.  After  that  a Mr.  Waldeck  made  an  exploration  under  authority  from 
Mexico.  In  1839  John  L.  Stephens,  on  his  return  from  Guatemala,  made  a 
reconnoissance  into  the  forests  of  Chiapas  and  spent  some  time  within  the 
walls  of  the  ancient  temples  and  published  some  interesting  chapters  in  his 
“Incidents  of  Travel,”  which  were  handsomely  illustrated  by  an  English  artist 
of  note — Catherwood.  Since  then  Charnay  and  other  noted  explorers  have 
visited  Palenque  and  all  without  exception  agree  to  its  wonders  and  the  pre- 
historic origin,  and  Stephens  says  that  if  a like  discovery  had  been  made  at 
that  time  in  Italy,  Greece,  Egypt  or  Asia  within  reach  of  European  travel,  it 
would  have  created  an  interest  not  inferior  to  the  discovery  of  Herculanaeum  or 
Pompeii  or  the  Ruins  of  Paestum.  Mr.  Stephens’  account  is  enchantingly  in- 
teresting and  covers  some  2C0  pages  of  his  book — though  he  relates  all  the 
incidents  of  his  travels;  for  instance,  telling  of  his  having  heard  the  Spaniards 
tell  of  a very  peculiar  beetle  found  in  the  forests  of  Palenque  that  emitted 
light  from  their  bodies  sufficient  to  guide  travelers  in  the  paths  at  night,  and 
that  he  found  the  story  was  partially  true;  he  found  the  beetles  crawling  on 
the  walls  of  the  Ruins,  and  the  light  from  four  of  them  cast  a glow  several 
yards  around,  and  by  the  light  of  one  beetle  he  could  read. 

As  to  the  extent  of  the  Ruins,  Stephens  says  that  the  natives  aver  that  they 
cover  a space  of  sixty  miles  and  that  some  writers  have  said  that  the  ancient 
city  was  ten  times  larger  than  New  York  and  three  times  the  size  of  London — 
but  he  says  also  that  the  natives  know  nothing  about  it  and  strangers  less, 
because  the  surface  of  the  earth  is  covered  by  an  impenetrable  forest,  compared 
to  which  our  wildest  woodlands  is  an  open  field,  and  that  one  might  pass 
within  a hundred  feet  of  the  greatest  of  the  temples  and  not  find  it;  consequently 
the  extent  is  unknown  to  any  one  as  no  exploration  has  ever  been  made.  But 
there  are  walls  and  temples,  towers  and  altars,  on  the  verge  of  that  forest  to 
indicate  the  place  of  a great  city.  The  remote  antiquity  of  the  Ruins  is  unques- 
tioned. The  Padres  point  to  the  cross  in  the  tablets  as  an  argument  that  the 
builders  were  Christians  and  that  the  city  was  founded  in  the  third  century — 
while  Dupaix  places  the  date  long  before  the  Christian  era — but  it  is  all  the 
merest  guesswork;  certainly  it  was  a ruined  city  uninhabited  when  Cortez 
marched  within  thirty  miles  of  it  on  his  way  south  and  did  not  stop,  for  he 
did  not  know  it  was  there;  if  it  had  been  inhabited  he  would  have  heard  of  it 
and  turned  aside  to  subdue  its  people. 

The  greatest  of  the  temples  discovered  is  vulgarly  called  “the  palace.”  It 


229 


is  on  a pyramid  nearly  50  feet  high,  with  a base  of  300  by  250  feet.  The  walls  of 
“the  palace”  are  cut  by  fourteen  arched  doorways  eight  feet  apart,  ten  feet  wide, 
running  up  to  pointed  archways;  within  the  walls  are  a number  of  courts,  the 
largest  of  which  is  nearly  a hundred  feet  square.  The  floors  are  covered  with 
a plaster  and  the  wall  covered  with  stucco  molded  or  carved  into  curious  figures 
and  hieroglyphics.  From  these  floors  staircases  lead  to  towers  that  are  yet 
thirty  to  fifty  feet  high,  and  in  the  olden  times  must  have  been  much  higher. 
There  are  scores  of  these  temples,  but  there  is  not  space  to  even  enumerate. 
Stephens  mentions  in 
his  writings  two  tab- 
lets that  were  in  a 
house  in  the  village 
and  his  artist,  Mr. 

Catherwood,  made 
drawings  of  them; 
these  are  noted  in  a 
very  interesting  work 
on  the  topography 
and  resources  of  the 
State  of  Chiapas  by 
Senor  Don  Ramon 
Rabasa  and  the  de- 
scriptions of  the  two 
writers  are  identical, 
although  the  first 
was  written  sixty 
years  before  the  sec- 
ond, which  is  as  fol- 
lows: “In  the  fa- 

cade of  the  building 
on  either  side  of  the  the  palenque  cross. 

entrance  is  a strange  figure — one  has  a headdress  of  leaves  and  flowers  and 
has  a trumpet  from  which  exudes  flames  and  smoke — from  the  shoulders  hangs 
a tiger  skin,  adorned  with  a snake,  a bird  and  other  devices  with  bracelets 
on  the  arms  and  feet.  The  other  figure  has  a complicated  adornment  of  the 
head  composed  of  plumes,  with  the  sacred  bird,  el  gavilan,  the  sparrow  hawk 
holding  a fish  in  its  beak.  The  other  adornments  are  a tiger’s  head  and  a 
grotesque  figure  with  other  gravings.  Over  both  figures  are  various  hiero- 
glyphics.” I give  the  description  of  Senor  Rabasa  and  the  illustration  of  Mr. 
Catherwood  in  Stephens’  book. 

The  Ruins  are  three  leagues  from  the  village  of  Santo  Domingo  del  Pal- 
enque, reached  by  horseback  from  El  Salto  and  by  boat  from  Frontera  to  El 
Shalto,  or  via  the  Usumacinto  River  to  Monte  Cristo,  thence  by  horse;  in 
either  case  the  trip  is  not  a hard  one  for  the  average  venturesome  traveler, 
who  will  be  amply  repaid  for  whatever  discomfort  there  may  be  in  the  journey^. 
The  population  of  Santo  Domingo  del  Palenque  is  1,347. 

Parras.  A very  pretty  little  city  in  the  heart  of  the  vineyard  district  of 
Par'-ras  northern  Mexico — a typical  Mexican  town,  with  its  plaza  and  ala- 
meda  shaded  by  great  trees,  its  churches  with  rounded  domes  above  them 
gleaming  white  in  the  bright  sunshine.  The  wines  of  Parras  are  noted  for 
their  purity  and  flavor.  Parras  is  on  the  Coahuila  & Pacific  Railway,  ninety- 
nine  miles  from  Saltillo  and  ninety-two  from  Torreon,  Population,  6,476. 
Altitude,  5,032. 


230 


Patzcttaro.  If  ever  you  should  come  to  Patzcuaro  and  see  its  quaint  and 

Patz'-qua-ro  curious  streets,  narrow  and  crooked,  with  shrines  and  saints 

set  in  the  walls  at  every  zig-zag  corner;  with  its  tree-covered  plaza,  where,  on 
the  market  night,  the  fishwomen  sit  beside  little  oil-wood  fires  and  the  native 
comes  to  buy  fish,  and  the  copper  and  earthen  pots  to  cook  them  in  ; — if  you 
should  ever  come  to  Patzcuaro,  make  the  climb  to  Los  Balcones  and  look  out 
over  the  valley,  with  its  scores  of  towns,  and  the  lake,  with  its  islands  rising 
out  of  the  clear  waters  in  cone-like  peaks,  you  will  say  that  the  ancient 
Tarascan  kings  were  correct  when  they  called  the  city  “Patzcuaro,”  “place  of 
pleasure.” 

Between  the  station  and  the  town  is  about  a league,  over  a winding  road, 
hard  beaten  with  much  travel  up  and  down  ihe  long  steep  hill.  The  mode  of 
transportation  is  the  diligencia  of  the  old  Mexican  type,  and  its  creaking 

leathers  only  quicken 
the  anticipation,  but  not 
the  pace  of  the  mules. 
The  wayfarers  met  or 
overtaken,  and  one 
meets  more  than  are 
overtaken,  are  on  foot 
or  on  the  backs  of  bur- 
ros, taking  the  product 
of  the  field  or  the  yield 
of  the  lake  from  the 
valley  to  the  markets  of 
the  town,  or  returning 
with  the  proceeds  and 
purchases,  so  that  the 
speed — speed  is  not  ex- 
actly the  word  here — 
of  the  coach  is  not  ob- 
jected to;  and  the  view 
gradually  grows  by 
inches,  as  it  were,  till 
the  ride  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  of  Patzcuaro. 

When  one  comes  to 
the  top  of  the  hill  there 
is  not  time  to  enjoy  the 
panorama  spread  out  in 
the  valley  where  the 
A MEXICAN  SAW-MILL.  lake  is,  and  then  there 

is  so  much  right  at  the  wheels  that  is  new  and  novel  to  claim  attention.  The 
mules,  finding  the  pulling  easier  than  on  the  incline  of  the  hill,  trot  along  at  a 
brisker  rate  and  are  soon  at  the  hotel — not  a pleasing  prospect  from  the  facade, 
but  the  patio  with  its  flowers  and  the  gallery  all  around  are  reassuring;  the 
rooms  are  not  so  inviting,  but  The  clean  newly-made-up  beds  are  satisfying,  so 
that  it  does  not  matter  if  there  are  no  carpets  and  only  a tiled  floor,  one  is  only 
to  stay  there  when  one  can  go  nowhere  else,  and  while  one  does  stay  there,  it  is 
to  sleep — to  sleep,  perhaps  to  dream  of  castles  in  Snain,  and  wake  to  find 
a no  less  pleasing  reality  in  a beautiful  land,  whose  civilization  is  older  and 
whose  ruins  and  legends  as  interesting. 

The  plaza  of  Patzcuaro  is  a pretty  one,  and  in  the  center  of  it  is  a beautiful 
pagoda,  where  the  band  plays  in  the  evening.  Over  the  flowers  and  fountains, 
which  bloom  and  play  from  January  to  January,  are  the  grandest  of  grand  old 


231 


trees  that  may  have  sheltered  the  Tarascan  potentates  when  they  came  to  this 
place  of  pleasure,  and  the  same  perennial  verdure  is  there  in  the  leaves. 

A market  night  in  Patzcuaro  is  such  as  could  be  nowhere  else  in  the  world. 
Scores  and  scores  of  little  fires  light  the  scene.  By  each  fire  sits  a woman, 
a man  or  a boy,  with  their  wares  around  them;  the  fruits,  vegetables  and  fish 
are  in  little  stacks  on  mats  on  the  ground.  Everything  is  sold  at  so  much 
per  stack  in  a Mexican  market,  and  if  you  don’t  like  the  size  of  it,  you  can  go 
where  the  stacks  are  larger,  or  the  prices  smaller;  some  sell  fish,  others  fruit 
of  every  kind  that  ripens  under  a tropic  sun;  the  stock  in  trade  of  another  is 
peppers  and  potatoes,  tomatoes  and  tamales;  another  offers  earthen  vessels 
and  some  of  copper,  for  household  uses,  and  there  are  flowers  in  abundance  at 
almost  every  stand — or,  more  properly,  at  every  sitting,  as  the  venders  all 
sit  on  the  ground  surrounded  by  their  stock  in  trade. 

The  portales — columned  archways — extend  over  the  sidewalk  on  the  four 
sides  of  the  plaza  in  front  of  the  stores  where  they  sell  zerapes  and  rebosos. 

A delightful  morning  walk  is  through  some  narrow,  crooked  streets  where, 
in  the  niches  in  the  walls  along,  arc  the  fourteen  stations  of  the  Cross  in  the 
street  that  leads  to  the  Hill  and  Church  of  Calvary. 


ON  LAKE  PATZCUARO,  THE  VOYAGE  TO  TZINTZUNTZAN. 


Los  Balcones  is  a stone  parapet  or  balcony  in  front  of  the  Church  of 
El  Calvario,  where  there  are  several  stone  benches  on  the  edge  of  a precipice, 
a thousand  feet  above  the  plain  where  the  lake  is.  When  the  sun  is  just 
peeping  over  the  eastern  peaks  of  the  distant  Sierras,  tingeing  the  sky  from 
blue  to  gold  and  putting  on  a mellow  light,  it  is  the  very  prettiest  picture.  The 
valley  and  the  lake  spread  out,  with  the  forty-three  towns  of  the  plain,  and  the 
islands  rising  from  the  blue  waters  of  the  lake  like  the  peaked  and  castled 
ones  in  Como,  in  Italy,  makes  a picture  of  surpassing  beauty  and  fascination. 

The  plaza,  in  the  morning,  is  not  so  weirdly  picturesque  as  when  the  oil- 
wood  fire-light  blazed  flickeringly,  but  as  fascinating.  The  old  churches,  with 
their  crude,  quaint  pictures  and  their  relics  and  offerings  are  to  be  looked  over, 
and  another  visit  to  Los  Balcones  is  to  be  made  to  see  the  setting  of  the  sun 
that  was  so  bright  in  its  rising.  After  an  early  breakfast  of  the  most  luscious 
fruits  and  the  delicious  coffee  from  the  plantations  of  Uruapam  near  by,  and 
some  fish  fresh  from  the  lake,  it  is  time  to  start  for  Tzintzuntzan.  Canoes 
should  be  arranged  for  and  they  will  be  waiting — curious  canoes,  long  and 
wide,  with  high  projecting  prow  and  stern,  hewn  from  great  trees,  each  one 
a solid  piece.  The  oarsmen  are  Indians,  with  ladle-looking  paddles  with  long 
handles,  which  are  industriously  plied,  and  you  are  soon  on  your  way  up  the 
lake. 


232 


The  slow  progress  could  not  be  monotonous  on  Lake  Patzcuaro;  there  is 
that  to  see  here  that  could  not  be  seen  anywhere  else.  The  islands  look  like 
the  peaks  of  submerged  mountains  with  just  the  tops  above  the  water.  On  the 
steep  sides  are  some  quaint  little  houses,  and  rising  above  the  trees,  almost 
at  the  top,  gleams  the  white  tower  of  a church,  whose  little  bell  sends  forth  a 
sonorous  peal  over  the  water.  The  picture  is  a pretty  one,  and  has  its  double, 
as  distinctly  outlined  as  the  original,  in  the  marvelously  clear  water,  and  every 
single  canoe  is  two,  coming  together  at  the  keel,  as  the  reflection  makes  it 
look.  The  fishermen  are  busy  everywhere;  their  canoes  dot  the  lake  for  miles 
around.  They  are  long,  flat-bottomed  boats,  with  a piece  of  cotton  cloth 
stretched  on  hoops  for  a shelter,  not  unlike  the  cover  of  a country  wagon. 
The  fishermen  stand  in  the  bow  with  a long  pole,  which  has  a net  on  the  end. 
This  is  dipped  in  the  water  at  random,  and  with  more  or  less  success.  The 
canoes  hug  the  eastern  shore,  and  it  is  not  a long  row — not  more  than  three 
hours — to  Tzintzuntzan,  where  the  famous  Titian  is.  Tzintzuntzan  was  once 

a great  city,  and  the 
capital  of  the  Tarascan 
kings;  now,  only  a 
straggling  village,  with 
a group  of  ruined 
churches.  Your  care- 
fully studied  salutation 
in  Spanish,  a handful 
of  cigars  and  a bottle  of 
wine,  will  make  the 
padre  and  you  the  best 
of  friends.  He  will 
know,  even  before  you 
ask  him,  that  you  want 
to  see  the  picture,  and 
will  open  the  high 
arched  door  of  carved 
wood  which  leads  to  a 
patio  or  open  court.  A 
THE  TITIAN  AT  TZINTZUNTZAN.  surpHccd  Indian  boy 

brings  a lighted  candle.  The  padre  leads  the  way,  and  a wondering  little  pro- 
cession follows  through  a dark  corridor  that  leads  up  to  another  massive  door, 
barred  and  chained  and  padlocked. 

You  are  back  in  ancient  feudal  days,  in  some  old  castle  opened  to  you.  The 
clanking  chains  and  rusty,  creaking  hinges  are  on  your  prison  doors;  but  the 
boy  holds  the  tallow  dip  high,  and  shows  the  padre’s  kindly  face.  You  are  only 
at  Tzintzuntzan,  in  search  of  a Titian. 

The  door  opens  into  an  inner  room  as  dark  as  night.  The  padre  unfastens 
a grated  window  and  a flood  of  golden  sunlight  comes  through  and  falls  full 
upon  the  picture. 

Such  coloring,  such  composition,  such  feeling,  could  only  come  from  a 
masterhand.  Whose?  Tradition  says  Titian,  and  presented  by  Philip  II.  of 
Spain.  Eminent  men,  authors  and  artists  agree.  The  padre  closes  the  window 
and  the  door,  locks  and  chains  them  again;  the  boy  holds  up  his  flickering 
torch,  and  you  go  out,  leaving  the  padre  and  his  treasures  as  a dream  too 
unreal  to  be  true.  An  effort  has  been  made  to  buy  the  painting,  and  $50,000 
was  offered  by  the  Bishop  of  Mexico,  but  the  faithful,  devoted  Indians  refuse, 
and  the  price  that  bought  the  “Angelus”  would  be  no  temptation.  Yet  the 
“Entombment”  is  some  hundreds  of  years  older,  is  the  work  of  an  old  master. 


233 


and  is  big  enough  (the  figures  are  all  life  size)  to  make  a hundred  of  the 
“Angelus;  ’ and  yet  its  price  would  not  buy  it,  the  Indians  refusing  absolutely 
to  allow  the  picture  to  be  taken  away. 

In  the  Casa  Municipal  of  the  village  is  a painting  of  the  Calzontzin  Sinzicha 
receiving  Christianity.  Some  attempts  at  excavating  were  made  in  1855,  but 
the  Indians  were  superstitious  and  quietly  filled  up  the  trenches  as  fast  as  they 
were  dug. 

The  See  of  Michoacan  was  removed  from  Tzintzuntzan  to  Patzcuaro,  and 
building  of  a great  Cathedral  was  commenced,  under  a bull  of  Pope  Julian  III., 
published  July  8,  1550.  But  only  a part  of  the  church  was  finished,  since  the 
See  was  removed  again  to  Morelia,  and  it  is  now  used  as  the  parish  church.  It 
will  hold  3,000  people.  The  bones  of  the  good  Bishop  Quiroga,  in  wrappings 
of  silk,  are  preserved  in  the  church,  on  the  left  of  the  main  entrance.  Here 
also  is  an  image  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Salud,  dedicated  by  Bishop  Quiroga. 
Connected  with  this  church  there  was,  in  ancient  days,  a very  rich  nunnery. 
There  is  an  altar  over  the  spring  which  supplies  the  city  with  the  water 
which  gushed  forth  from  the  rock  struck  by  the  staff  of  Bishop  Quiroga.  The 
staff  is  also  shown  in  the  Cathedral  at  Morelia.  The  Church  of  San  Agustin 
was  established  in  1576,  San  Juan  de  Dios  in  1650.  The  other  churches  are 
San  Francisco  and  Guadalupe.  About  a mile  eastward  of  Patzcuaro  is  the 
chapel  of  Humilladero,  erected  on  the  spot  where  the  Indians  received  the 
Spaniards  with  overtures  of  peace,  w'hich  were  hardly  reciprocated  by  them. 

Of  the  islands  of  Lake  Patzcuaro  there  are  three,  Xanicho,  Xaracuaro  and 
Pacanda,  that  are  populated  by  a community  of  fishermen.  Xanicho  is  the 
largest,  with  a population  of  1,200,  and  a quaint  little  church,  Geronimo,  and  a 
school  for  boys  and  girls. 

Near  Tzintzuntzan  is  the  little  town  of  Iguatzio,  where  there  is  a pyramid, 
from  which  idols,  ornaments  and  arms  have  been  taken,  and  under  which  are 
subterranean  passages,  with  supports  of  timber,  which  tradition  says  com- 
municated with  those  of  Tzintzuntzan,  discovered  in  1855.  These  and  the  paved 
road  were  in  existence  when  the  Spaniards  came. 

The  cruel  acts  of  Nino  de  Guzman  greatly  retarded  the  peaceful  work  of  the 
emissaries  of  Cortez,  Guzman’s  cruelties  culminating  in  the  burning  of  the 
Calzontzin  Sinzicha  to  extort  the  secret  of  supposed  treasure.  After  the  recall 
of  Guzman  to  Spain  came  Vasco  de  Quiroga,  a lawyer,  afterwards  the  good 
bishop,  who  did  much  to  repair  the  cruel  doings,  and  through  him  came  about 
the  good  works  of  peace,  and  the  frightened  people  returned  to  their  homes  and 
were  taught  to  make  copper  ware  and  to  work  in  other  metals,  as  well  as  the 
other  arts  of  peace.  The  good  effect  of  his  teachings  are  felt  in  this  region 
to  this  day,  and  his  name  is  much  venerated.  He  died  at  Uruapam  in  1565, 
March  14,  at  the  age  of  96  years. 

The  old  city  of  Michoacan,  which  included  Tzintzuntzan  and  Patzcuaro,  was 
founded  February  28,  1534,  by  a Royal  Order  of  Charles  V.,  but  the  seat  of 
the  See  was  finally  to  be  at  Morelia,  where  it  now  is. 

Patzcuaro  is  on  the  western  division  of  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  in 
the  State  of  Michoacan,  274  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico.  Street  cars  from 
the  station  to  the  Plaza. 

Puebla.  It  is  called  the  City  of  the  Angels,  but  Puebla  is  a city  of  tiles. 

Poo-eb'-lah  Tiles  are  used  everywhere,  from  the  domes  of  the  many  churches 
of  the  valley  to  their  walls  and  floors;  glazed  tiles  of  many  colors  adorn  the 
exterior  and  interior  walls  of  residences,  and  in  varied  hues  on  the  towers  they 
glisten  in  the  sun.  One  house  in  the  Calle  de  Mercaderes  has  its  fa9ade  entirely 
of  tiles;  and  in  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Luz,  and  the  old  convent  of 
Santa  Rosa,  now  an  insane  asylum,  are  some  very  beautiful  mosaics  of  tiles. 


234 


Looking  down  from  the  surrounding  hills,  or  in  the  approach  across  the  plain, 
the  tiled  towers  present  a picturesque  effect. 

The  history  of  Puebla  is  romantic,  and  full  of  legends.  The  original  name 
of  the  city  was  Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  from  the  vision  that  led  to  its  founding 
on  this  site,  or,  rather,  two  visions.  One  legend  goes  on  to  tell  of  the  mar- 
shalling, in  mighty  hosts,  of  the  angels  above  the 
place  where  the  city  now  stands.  The  other  story 
is,  that  the  good  Fray  Julian  Garces,  desirous  of 
founding  a halting-place  between  the  coast  and  the 
capital,  set  about  to  find  a site  for  his  city,  and  one 
night,  as  he  rested  from  his  labors,  he  dreamed  a 
dream,  and  in  it  saw  a beautiful  plain,  on  the  slope 
of  the  great  volcanoes,  with  two  little  hills  about  a 
league  between;  there  were  springs  in  the  plain,  and 
two  rivers  of  abundant  waters,  with  living  trees  and 
flowers.  While  he  looked  upon  this,  two  angels  ap- 
peared, with  rod  and  chain,  and  measured  streets 
and  squares.  After  this  remarkable  dream,  the 
Bishop  awoke  and  immediately  set  out.  Guided  by 
the  same  power  that  showed  the  vision,  says  the 
chronicler,  he  soon  came  to  the  plain  of  his  dream, 
saying,  “Here  hath  the  Lord,  through  his  angels, 
shown  me  the  site  of  the  city,  and  to  His  glory  it 
shall  be  made.”  And  thus  came  the  name  Puebla  de 
AT  PUEBLA.  los  Angeles.  But  more  substantial  history  relates 

that  some  fifty  families  of  Spaniards,  from  Tlaxcala,  came  to  this  valley, 
and,  on  the  i6th  of  April,  1532,  commenced  the  building  of  houses  of  the  city 
that  for  more  than  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  has  borne  the  name  derived 
from  the  vision,  till  it  was  officially  changed  to  Puebla  Zaragoza,  in  honor  of  the 
hero  of  the  battle  of  the  5th  of  May,  1862. 

Puebla  has  seen  much  of  the  vicissitudes  of  war,  and,  next  to  the  capital, 
has  suffered  most.  It  was  captured  by  Yturbide,  August  2,  1821;  occupied  by 
General  Scott,  May  25,  1847;  was  the  scene  of  Zaragoza’s  victory.  May  5,  1862; 
recaptured  by  the  French  on  the  17th  of  May,  1863,  and  in  turn  taken  from 
them  four  years  later,  April  2,  1867,  by  General  Porfirio  Diaz. 

Northeast  of  the  city,  within  the  suburbs,  is  the  hill  and  fort  of  Guadalupe, 
named  for  the  church  that  was  there  in  the  earlier  days.  Here  was  the  battle 
ground  of  the  5th  of  May,  1862,  when  General  Zaragoza,  with  2,000  men, 
repulsed  the  6,coo  French  soldiers,  under  de  Lorencez;  the  French  re-occupied 
the  city  in  1863,  but  in  1867,  April  2,  General  Porfirio  Diaz  recaptured  the 
forts  and  made  prisoners  the  entire  French  garrison  of  Puebla.  The  ruins  of 
the  church  were  used  for  fortifications,  and,  with  the  stone,  the  fort  was  built, 
though  the  church  was  not  completely  demolished.  The  crypt  was  used  as 
a magazine,  and  the  other  parts  put  to  baser  uses.  On  a slightly  lower  hill, 
called  Loreto,  about  half  a mile  north,  is  the  fort  of  Cinco  de  Mayo,  and 
within  its  walls  the  little  chapel  of  Loreto.  The  view  from  the  hill  of  Guadalupe 
is  one  of  extreme  beauty. 

The  city  is  spread  out  on  the  plain  in  the  foreground.  To  the  westward 
the  great  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl;  to  the  north  is  the 
mighty  Malintzi,  and  to  the  east  old  Orizaba;  the  lesser  hills  are  Tecolote  on 
the  left,  and  the  Cerro  del  Conde;  to  the  right  Amaluca,  near  by  the  hill  and 
fort  of  Loreto;  to  the  left,  the  Cerro  San  Juan,  with  its  arched  hacienda,  and 
beyond  it  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula.  There  are  churches,  churches,  everywhere, 
and  in  all  directions,  with  their  walls  and  domes  of  all  the  colors;  San  Agustin 


235 


IN  THE  CATHEDRAL,  PUEBLA. 

is  white;  San  Jose,  red;  Santo  Domingo,  white;  Concepcion,  brown;  Santa 
Teresa,  yellow;  San  Cristobal,  red;  Carmen,  yellow;  San  Angel  de  Analco, 
red;  Compania,  blue;  Soledad,  white;  San  Francisco,  grey;  while  towering 


236 


above  all  is  the  brownish-grey  of  the  Cathedral,  and,  far  away,  the  white  towers 
of  Los  Remedios,  on  the  top  of  Cholula’s  pyramid.  There  is  not  a picture  like 
it  in  many  days’  travel,  and  there  may  not  be  in  all  the  world. 

It  is  not  a long  walk  to  this  hill  of  Guadalupe,  a trifle  tiresome,  but  very 
pleasant,  if  you  take  your  time.  The  way  is  through  the  Plazuela  de  San 
Francisco,  out  by  the  old  Plaza  de  Toros,  across  the  stone  bridge  over  the 
Atoyac,  through  the  little  paseo,  and  by  the  group  of  churches  of  Calvario 
San  Juan  del  Rio  and  Piadosas,  and  over  the  old  causeway  where  marched  the 
processions  in  olden  times;  this  is  the  way  to  Guadalupe. 

The  streets  of  Puebla  are  wide,  as  streets  go  in  Mexico,  and  are  wonder- 
fully clean,  sloping  from  curb  to  center,  where,  in  some  of  them,  are  running 
streams,  while  others  are  flooded  for  sanitary  purposes.  The  parks  and  plazas 
are  pretty,  indeed,  with  their  trees,  and  flowers  and  fountains.  The  markets  are 
more  metropolitan  than  Mexican,  though  many  curious  articles  are  offered 
in  the  stalls.  Mats  and  baskets  of  colored  straw,  the  crude  crockery  of  Puebla 
manufacture,  clay  figures  and  Indian  carvings  of  onyx.  The  buildings  are 
more  pretentious  than  in  the  average  city  of  the  country,  though  built  in 
purely  Mexican  style.  They  are  two  and  three  stories  high.  There  are  two 
theatres  and  two  bull-rings,  and  the  bull-fights  of  Puebla  are  notable  for  their 
excellence,  if  that  word  may  be  used  in  connection  with  the  sport. 

The  public  buildings  are  not  so  ambitious  as  might  be  expected  in  so  fine  a 
city.  The  legislative  sessions  are  in  the  old  Alhondiga,  on  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
and  the  Courts  are  in  the  old  Colegio  de  San  Pantaleon;  the  penitentiary  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  land.  There  is  a State  College,  with  libraries  of  nearly 
40,000  volumes;  a Normal  School,  and  other  educational  institutions,  and  an 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts;  also,  several  hospitals. 

The  Cathedral  of  Puebla  rivals  the  great  Cathedral  of  the  City  of  Mexico, 
and,  except  in  point  of  size,  is  regarded  by  many  as  the  finer  church.  Bishop 
Zumarraga  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  first  church,  in  1532,  and  of  the  first 
Cathedral  in  1536,  but  the  present  building  was  not  begun  until  a hundred  years 
later;  it  was  consecrated  April  18,  1649.  The  location  is  on  a stone  terrace, 
to  the  south  of  the  Plaza  Mayor.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing, 
placed  in  1886-87.  This,  with  a monument,  is  in  memory  of  Pius  IX.  Between 
the  two  tall  towers  of  the  west  front  is  the  main  doorway,  with  the  date  above, 
1664,  marking  the  completion  of  this  portion  of  the  building.  The  building  is 
323  feet  long  and  loi  feet  wide,  with  a height  on  the  inside  of 
more  than  eighty  feet,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a splendid 
dome.  The  old  tower,  which  alone  cost  $100,000,  contains 
eighteen  bells,  the  largest  of  which  weighs  nearly  20,000 
pounds.  The  great  choir,  built  of  stone,  is  in  the  center  of 
the  nave,  inclosed  in  wrought-iron  gratings,  made  in  1697. 
The  carvings  of  the  organ  are  superb,  in  native  woods,  as  are 
the  doors  of  the  entrance-ways.  The  work  of  Pedro  Munos, 
begun  in  1719  and  completed  24th  of  August,  1722.  To  the 
left  of  the  altar  and  between  it  and  the  choir  is  the  pulpit, 
carved  from  Puebla  onyx.  The  intricate  marquetry  work  is 
a revelation.  On  the  door  that  leads  to  the  Bishop’s  seat  is  an 
inlaid  picture  of  St.  Peter,  and  in  the  shrine  above  is  pre- 
served a thorn  from  the  crown  of  Christ.  The  interior  of  the 
Cathedral  was  repaired  in  1887  by  a native  of  Cholula,  Senor 
Leandro  Tello.  The  high  altar  was  commenced  in  1789,  and 
completed  in  1819,  at  a cost  of  $110,000.  It  is  constructed  of 
every  conceivable  marble  of  Mexico,  and  the  exquisite  onyx  of 
Puebla,  the  work  of  a native  artist,  Manuel  Tolsa.  Beneath  the 


237 


altar  is  the  tomb  of  the  Bishops,  this  also  laid  in  beautiful  slabs  of  onyx. 
The  chapels  are  the  Capilla  de  los  Reyes,  with  g shrine  and  image  of 
Nuestra  Sehora  de  la  Difensa,  to  whom  is  attributed  many  miracles;  the  Capilla 
de  San  Jose  contains  a fine  figure  of  that  saint,  and  an  ivory  crucifix,  a present 
to  Bishop  Vasquez  by  Gregory  XVI.;  the  Bishop’s  tomb  is  in  front  of  the 
chapel.  The  Capilla  de  los  Relicarios  has  an  altar  of  richly  carved  wood,  and 
a silver  urn,  containing  the  ashes  of  San  Sebastian  de  Aparicio,  also  the  busts 
of  other  saints,  with  relics  of  their  bones  carried,  under  glass,  on  their  breasts. 
Here  are  scores  of  boxes,  containing  relics  innumerable. 

In  the  sacristy  are  many  pictures,  set  in  golden,  carved  frames;  the  tables 
have  slabs  of  richest  onyx,  and  the  vestment  chests  are  handsomely  carved. 

Among  the  portraits  in  the  Cathedral  are  those  of  the  various  Bishops  of 
Puebla,  of  Gregory  XVIII.,  Charles  V.,  Fray  Julian  Garces,  first  bishop  of 
Puebla,  Leo  X.;  in  the  sacristy  are  some  rich  tapestries  of  Flanders,  presented 
by  Charles  V.  Among  the  other  pictures  are  the  Fourteen  Stations  of  the 
Cross,  the  Holy  Sacrament,  the  Assumption,  the  Apparition  of  Nuestra  Senora 
(le  la  Merced  to  San  Raymundo  de  Penafort,  a Virgin  and  Child,  by  Ibarra, 
a Dolores  de  Acazingo,  the  Triumph  of  Mary,  and  a Last  Supper,  with  many 
others. 

The  parish  church  adjoins  the  Cathedral,  where  there  are  other  fine  pictures, 
and  a picture  by  Zendejas  when  he  was  over  ninety  years  old;  also  a beautiful 
baptismal  font  of  onyx. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  is  next  to  the  Cathedral  in  point  of  interest 
and  beauty.  Founded  in  1532,  on  the  hill  above  the  Atoyac,  the  present  church 
was  begun  in  1667.  The  very  high  tower  is  built  of  a bluish-grey  stone,  beau- 
tifully carved,  and  laid  in  panels  of  tiles.  The  old  convent  of  this  church  is 
now  used  as  a military  hospital.  The  flat  arched  roof,  the  story  says,  was 
not  trusted  by  the  architect;  he  feared  to  remove  the  supporting  timbers,  and 
left  it  to  the  priests  to  do.  They  were  afraid  to  send  laborers  to  take  them 
out,  and  it  was  concluded  to  burn  them  out.  It  was  done;  the  arch  remained 
intact,  and  is  to-day,  after  more  than  two  hundred  years.  In  this  church  is 
a little  image,  carved  in  wood,  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios,  called  La 
Conquistadora.  It  is  only  about  eight  inches  high,  with  a little  child  in  its 
arms.  This  was  presented  by  Cortez  to  Axotecatl  Cocomitzin,  the  Tlaxcalan 
chief,  in  token  of  his  friendship. 

Here  also  is  the  chapel  of  San  Sebastian  de  Aparicio,  who  first  introduced 
wheeled  carts  and  oxen  into  Mexico,  and  who  drove  an  ox-cart  between 
Vera  Cruz  and  the  city,  and  later,  in  1542,  on  the  roads  north  to  Zacatecas. 
The  Fray’s  bones  were  formerly  kept  in  this  chapel,  until  they  were  removed 
to  the  Cathedral,  where  they  now  are,  in  the  Capilla  de  los  Relicarios.  The 
image  on  the  high  altar  is  that  of  San  Antonio  de  la  Torre  holding  the  child 
Jesus.  In  the  sacristy  are  the  portraits  of  the  twelve  Franciscans  known  as  the 
“Twelve  Apostles”  of  Mexico;  here  also  a Holy  Sepulchre,  a Last  Supper 
and  other  paintings  of  more  or  less  merit.  There  is  a most  interesting  old 
panteon  in  connection  with  the  church. 

La  Compania  was  founded  April  15,  1587;  the  present  church  completed 
in  1690.  There  are  two  towers  and  a tiled  dome.  There  is  a fine  figure  of 
San  Ygnacio  Loyola,  some  good  carvings  and  paintings  of  unusual  merit; 
among  the  pictures  is  the  Triumph  of  Mary,  by  Jose  Carnero,  and  a Descent 
from  the  Cross.  The  altar  pictures  are  by  Villalobos. 

San  Cristobal  was  founded  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago.  The  pulpit 
is  of  onyx.  This  is  one  of  the  few  Mexican  churches  with  seats,  with  the 
unusual  feature,  also,  of  having  separate  seats  for  men  and  women. 

Of  the  other  churches,  San  Antonio  contains  a relic  of  the  skin  of  one  of 


S38 


the  saints;  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Luz  is  particularly  noted  for  its  beautiful 
tile  work;  Santa  Clara,  noted  for  its  fine  arches,  possesses  a thorn  from  the 
crown  of  Christ;  San  Jose  is  the  saint  who  protects  Puebla  from  the  light- 
ning, an  image  of  whom  is  in  his  church,  carved  from  a tree  destroyed  by 
lightning;  La  Soledad  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  forty-six  churches  of  Puebla, 
but  to  write  their  history,  or  even  record  their  legends,  would  make  many 
volumes. 

From,  the  brilliant  victory  of  the  fifth  of  May,  the  name  of  the  hero  of 
that  day  was  added  and  the  city  is  now  officially  known  as  Puebla  de  Zara- 
goza. Reached  from  the  City  of  Mexico  via  the  Mexican  Railway  and  via 
the  Interoceanic,  via  these  lines  also  from  Vera  Cruz.  Time  from  the 


PYRAMID  CF  CHOLULA. 

capital  about  three  hours,  from  Vera  Cruz  twelve.  The  Mexican  Southern 
Railway  extends  from  Puebla  to  Oaxaca. 

The  Pyramid  of  Cholula.  The  date  of  the  building  of  the  Pyramid 
Cho-loo'-la  of  Cholula  is  unknown.  Even  before  the 
Aztecs  came  to  the  plain  of  Cholula,  the  great  pyramid  was  there  in  the 
midst,  and  the  people  told  them  the  legend  of  it,  that  it  was  built  by  a race 
of  giants  descended  from  the  two  survivors  of  a great  deluge  that  overspread 
the  land,  and  whose  intent  it  was  to  raise  its  heights  to  heaven,  but  they 
incurred  the  displeasure  of  the  gods,  who  sent  forth  fires  and  destroyed  them. 
This  indeed  is  the  story  that  is  coincident  with  the  Chaldean  and  Hebrew 
accounts  of  the  Deluge  and  the  Tower  of  Babel,  of  which  there  is  so  much 
in  the  traditions  of  these  people  that  is  similar  to  the  tales  of  the  Bible.  On 
the  summit  stood  the  sumptuous  temple  of  the  mystic  deity,  Quetzalcoatl,  the 


**god  of  the  air/*  whose  image  was  there,  under  its  pinnacled  towers,  as  the 
chronicler  says,  with  ebon  features,  wearing  a mitre  on  his  head,  waving 
with  plumes  of  fire;  a resplendent  collar  of  gold  was  about  the  neck;  pend- 
ants of  mosaic  turquoise  in  his  ears;  a jeweled  scepter  in  one  hand,  and  a 
curiously  painted  shield,  emblem  of  his  reign  over  the  winds,  in  the  other. 
Cholula  was,  in  those  ancient  days,  what  Rome  is  to-day.  Pilgrims  came 
from  hundreds  of  miles — as  do  the  Mohammedans  to  Mecca — to  bow  down  be- 
fore the  temple  of  Quetzalcoatl,  in  the  holy  city  of  Anahuac.  Cortez  declared 
that  he  counted  four  hundred  towers  in  the  city  of  Cholula,  yet  no  temple 
had  more  than  two,  and  some  only  one.  High  above  the  rest  rose  the  great 
temple  on  the  pyramid,  with  its  never-dying  fires  spreading  their  radiance 
over  the  capital,  proclaiming  the  return  of  the  deity  to  resume  his  rule  over 
the  land.  Such  was  the  pyramid  and  city  as  the  Spaniards  saw  it  at  their 
coming,  and  the  people  they  found  there  could  tell  little  else  of  its  history 
than  is  written  here.  The  temple  was  thrown  down  promptly  as  was  the 
custom  of  the  conquerors,  and  a Christian  church  placed  in  its  stead,  that 
stands  to  this  day. 

The  pyramid  has  the  appearance  of  a natural  hill,  as  its  sides  are  overgrown 
with  trees  and  bushes,  which  is  but  an  evidence  of  its  great  antiquity,  as  the 
interior  is  composed  of  alternate  layers  of  sun-dried  brick,  clay  and  limestone. 
The  height  is  177  feet  above  the  plain.  The  four  sides  face  the  cardinal  points, 
and  are  laid  in  terraces  that  now  are  overgrown  with  shrubs  and  trees. 
The  base  lines  are  more  than  a thousand  feet  on  each  side,  or  twice  as  long  as 
the  great  Cheops;  or,  to  give  a better  idea  of  its  size,  is  to  say  that  it  cov- 
ers twenty  acres  of  the  plain.  A paved  road  leads  up  the  steep  west  side, 
with  steps  of  hewn  stone,  to  the  arch  and  cross  of  the  entrance-way  to  the 
Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  los  Remedios,  on  the  very  top.  From  the  bal- 
conies the  view  of  the  valley  and  surrounding  mountains,  the  many  churches, 
with  their  glazed  tile  towers,  and  the  towns  and  villages  of  the  plain,  is  su- 
perb. There  are  two  other  pyramids  or  “mounds,”  as  Bandelier  prefers  to 
call  them,  the  Cerro  de  Acozac  and  the  Cerro  de  la  Cruz.  Acozac,  about 
1,300  feet  southwest  of  the  great  pyramid,  is  forty-nine  feet  high  with  base 
lines  of  fifty-five  to  150  feet.  The  sides  are  vertical  and  a ladder  is  necessary 
for  the  ascent.  The  Cerro  de  la  Cruz  is  about  350  feet  west  of  the  Pyramid 
itself;  it  is  forty-four  feet  high  and  has  a base  of  1,230  feet  in  circumference 
and  460  feet  at  the  top.  Both  these  “cerros”  are  of  adobe  bricks.  On  the 
Cerro  de  la  Cruz  tradition  says  tfiat  Cortez  caused  the  first  mass  to  be  said 
in  1519.  On  the  plains  round  about  are  numerous  other  cerros,  or  cerritos, 
as  they  are  much  smaller. 

The  town  of  Cholula  has  dwindled,  from  the  great  capital  of  a mighty 
nation,  to  less  than  5,000  people.  The  market  place,  “Tianquiz,”  is  still  called 
by  its  ancient  name.  Near  the  plaza  is  the  ruins  of  an  abandoned  monastery 
of  San  Francisco,  founded  in  1529.  The  church  on  this  spot,  called  San  Ga- 
briel, was  founded  in  1604;  it  has  a very  handsome  altar  of  expensive  adorn- 
ment. Near  by  and  adjoining  the  walls,  is  the  Royal  Chapel  and  Tercer 
Orden,  whose  roof  of  domes  is  supported  by  sixty-four  round  columns. 
This  church  was  built  in  1608,  for  overflow  meetings.  There  are  twenty- 
seven  other  churches  in  Cholula,  and  from  the  pyramid  the  towers  of  thirty 
more  can  be  counted  on  the  plains  near  by. 

The  ride  on  the  horse  cars  across  the  Atoyac  Valley,  from  Puebla  to 
Cholula,  is  a delightful  one.  The  track  runs  along  the  highway,  between  it 
and  an  arched  aqueduct.  The  hacienda  of  San  Juan  is  the  stone  building 
on  the  crest  of  a hill  to  the  left,  carried  by  assault  in  one  of  the  numerous 
battles  around  Puebla.  The  way  is  across  a sitone  bridge,  with  arched  en- 


240 


trances,  over  the  Atoyac  River,  passing  churches  and  haciendas  in  numbers, 
on  botli  sides,  with  something  to  interest  in  every  one  of  the  eight  miles. 

Queretaro.  Queretaro  occupies  a prominent  place  in  Mexico’s  history. 

Kay-ret'-aro  Otomite  town  before  the  Spaniards  came,  and 

was  made  a city  as  early  as  1655,  by  a decree  of  Philip  IV,  of  Spain.  Nearly 
every  Mexican  town  has  its  legend;  that  of  Queretaro  is,  that  an  Otomite 
chief,  Fernando  de  Tapia  by  name,  undertook  to  Christianize  the  town  by 
fighting,  which  seems  to  have  been  the  earlier  method.  He  came  from  Xilo- 
tepec  and  Tula,  to  challenge  the  people  of  Queretaro  to  what  might  be  called 


SANTA  ROSA,  QUERETARO. 

a ‘‘fair  fist  and  skull”  fight,  the  citizens  to  be  baptized  or  not  as  they  were 
beaten  or  victorious.  But  it  was  not  to  be  a fair  fight,  after  all,  for  while 
the  performance  was  proceeding,  a dark  cloud  came  up,  and  the  blessed 
Santiago  was  seen  in  the  heavens  with  a fiery  cross.  This  ended  the  fight,  the 
people  of  Queretaro  were  baptized,  and  in  commemoration  of  the  miracle, 
set  up  a stone  cross,  on  a site  now  occupied  by  the  church  of  Santa  Cruz, 
which  is  shown  above  the  high  altar  in  proof  of  the  legend. 

As  in  the  case  of  many  Mexican  towns,  this  one  derives  its  name  from 
an  Indian  word  meaning  a game  of  ball,  or  from  “querenda,”  a rocky  peak. 

Queretaro  was  the  place  of  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  of  peace  between 
the  United  States  and  Mexico,  in  1848,  and  figured,  more  or  less,  in  the  later 


241 


wars  and  revolutions,  till  the  town  is  full  of  warlike  reminiscence.  Maximil- 
ian’s last  stand  was  made  here,  and  his  surrender  on  the  morning  of  the  15th 
of  May,  1867.  Maximilian  had  his  headquarters  in  the  old  convent  of  La 
Cruz,  and  had  arranged  to  attempt  an  escape  on  the  night  of  the  ^th  of 
May,  but  before  the  plans  could  be  carried  out  the  Republican  soldiers  ef- 
fected an  entrance  through  the  stone  walls  of  the  orchard  back  of  the  con- 
vent and  surprised  the  bodyguard.  The  Emperor  with  his  staff  escaped  from 
the  convent,  passed  through  the  city  to  the  Cerro  de  las  Campanas,  where  he 
was  captured  and  brought  back  to  La  Cruz,  but  in  a few  days  removed  to 
the  convent  of  the  Capuchinas,  where  he  remained  till  his  death. 

The  story  of  “poor  Carlotta”  is  one  of  the  saddest,  and  had  its  saddest 
feature  at  Queretaro,  where  her  beloved,  but  unfortunate,  husband  met  his 
death.  Maximilian  was  executed  on  the  Cerro  de  las  Campanas,  just  in  the 
western  limits  of  the  city,  June  19,  1867,  and  with  him  the  Generals,  Miramon 
and  Mejia.  The  place  of  execution  is  marked  by  a beautiful  chapel. 
The  two  generals  fell  at  the  first  volley,  but  it  required  a second  firing  be- 
fore the  Emperor  was  dead.  He  had  requested  that  he  might  be  shot  in  the 
body,  that  his  mother  might  look  on  his  face.  He  had  been  led  to  believe 
that  his  wife  was  dead,  a story  of  consolation  in  pity  given,  to  which  he  re- 
plied, “one  tie  less  to  bind  me  to  earth.” 

The  body  was  taken  to  an  old  convent  of  the  Capuchins,  but  subsequently 
to  Austria  and  buried  at  Miramar.  A martyr  cruelly  betrayed  by  the  French 
Emperor,  and  seemingly  by  all  the  world  except  a devoted  wife,  who  pleaded 
for  succor  in  vain  to  him  and  to  the  Pope  of  Rome.  The  Government  of 
the  United  States  protested  against  the  execution,  although  an  imperial  power 
on  this  continent  is  inimical  to  its  doctrines,  but  the  protest  was  unheeded. 
The  Princess  Salm-Salm,  remembered  in  our  own  war  times,  rode  160  miles 
to  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  on  her  knees  begged  President  Juarez  to  spare  the 
captive,  but  all  unavailing,  and  Maximilian  died  a martyr  to  a political  prin- 
ciple. 

Mendez  was  the  first  of  the  generals  to  be  executed.  On  the  19th  of  May 
he  was  placed  near  the  wall  of  the  Plaza  de  Toros  and  shot. 

The  court-martial  was  convened  in  the  Yturbide  Theatre,  June  14,  1867,  at 
10:00  a.  m.,  and  at  10:00  p.  m.  on  the  15th  the  sentence  of  death  was  pro- 
nounced, and  at  once  approved  by  General  Escobedo,  who  ordered  the  exe- 
cution to  take  place  the  next  day,  but  a telegram  from  Juarez,  at  San  Luis 
Potosi,  postponed  the  execution  till  the  19th. 

The  trial  was  based  on  the  law  of  January  25th,  1862,  which  provided 
for  the  execution  on  the  spot  of  capture  of  all  caught  bearing  arms  against 
the  government — a trial  that  in  this  case  could  have  but  one  verdict.  Maxi- 
milian was  ill  and  did  not  attend  the  trial.  Maximilian,  at  the  instance  of 
Bazaine,  had  promulgated  a similar  law  October  3d,  1865,  that  was  even 
more  cruel. 

The  morning  of  the  execution  dawned  bright  and  beautiful  so  that  Maxi- 
milian remarked,  “I  always  wished  to  die  on  such  a day.”  With  Father  Soria 
the  Emperor  left  the  convent  at  6 a.  m.  in  a carriage  and  was  driven  to  the 
Cerro,  Mejia  and  Miramon  following  in  other  carriages.  Arrived  at  the  hill 
the  prisoners  were  placed  against  a low  wall  of  adobe  erected  for  the  purpose. 
Maximilian  was  expected  to  occupy  the  center,  but  he  stepped  to  the  right 
and  placed  Miramon  in  the  center  saying:  “A  brave  soldier  must  be  hon- 

ored by  his  monarch  even  in  his  last  hour;  therefore  permit  me  to  give  you 
the  place  of  honor.”  An  officer  and  seven  men  stood  only  a few  yards  away. 
The  Emperor  went  to  them,  took  each  soldier  by  the  hands,  gave  each  a 
piece  of  gold,  saying:  “Muchachos!  (boys)  Aim  well,  aim  right  here,”  point- 


242 

Ing  to  his  heart.  Then  stepping  back  to  his  place  in  the  line  addressed  the 
soldiers,  hoping  that  his  blood  might  be  the  last  to  be  shed.  Then  came  the 
command  to  fire.  Maximilian  shouted:  “Viva  Independencia!  Viva  Mex- 
ico.” Miramon  said:  “Viva  Mexico!  Viva  el  emperador!”  and  Mejia  gave 

utterance  to  the  same  cries,  the  guns  were  fired  and  the  empire  was  dead. 

1'he  convent  of  the  Capuchins  is  now  a dwelling.  The  chapel  on  the  Hill 
of  the  Bells,  erected  in  1889,  replaced  the  three  crosses  that  marked  the  spot  where 
the  ill-fated  emperor  and  his  generals  stood  to  receive  the  fire  of  their  execution- 
ers— the  exact  position  of  each  is  shown  by  tablets  in  the  pavement  of  the  chapel. 

The  Chapel  was  erected,  under  permission  of  President  Diaz,  by  the  friends 
and  admirers  of  Maximilian,  approved  by  the  House  of  Hapsburg.  Diplomatic 
relations  between  Mexico  and  Austria  were  resumed  soon  after  the  dedication 
of  the  chapel. 


CONVENT  OF  LA  CRUZ,  QUERETARO,  MAXIMILIAN’S  HEADQUARTERS. 

The  Cathedral,  formerly  the  Church  of  San  Francisco,  built  in  1698,  has 
some  very  beautiful  decorations  in  sculpture,  carvings  and  paintings.  Near 
by  is  the  Chapel  of  San  Loreto.  Santa  Clara,  founded  by  a rich  Indian,  the 
Cacique  Diego  de  Tapia,  son  of  the  introductor  of  Christianity  in  the  town 
in  1633,  San  Felipe,  Santo  Domingo,  San  Antonio,  San  Agustin,  Carmen, 
Merced,  Santa  Teresa,  Santa  Rosa,  and  Santa  Cruz,  containing  the  stone 
cross  that  was  set  up  and  worshiped  by  the  Indians,  on  their  conversion  on 
the  day  of  Santiago,  nearly  400  years  ago,  are  among  the  many  churches, 
whose  towers  are  seen  from  the  cars.  At  the  village  of  San  Francisco  is  the 
church,  or  rather  shrine,  of  Nuestra  Senora  del  Pueblito,  containing  a curious 
image  of  the  Virgin,  which  at  intervals  weeps  and  sometimes  assumes  a 
countenance  anything  but  pleasant,  much  to  the  disquiet  of  the  Indians,  and 


243 


who,  for  the  time  being,  are  put  on  their  good  behavior,  at  least  till  the  clouds 
roll  by. 

Mr.  Charles  Dudley  Warner  says  of  the  church  of  Santa  Rosa  at  Quere- 

taro : ‘‘One  of  the  finest  chapels  in  the  world,  it  is  at  any  rate  unique.  I 

know  of  no  church  in  the  world  so  rich  in  wood  carving.  It  is  overlaid  with 
thick  gold  leaf,  almost  gold  plate,  and,  in  some  places,  the  gold  is  overlaid 
with  transparent  tortoise  shell.  The  great  altar  piece,  which  is  said  to  have 

been  the  richest  part  of  the  chapel,  was  wantonly  destroyed  by  the  French 

when  they  occupied  the  city.  They  tore  it  down  and  burned  it  in  order  to 
get  the  gold.  I was  told  in  Queretaro  that  they  took  gold  to  the  value  of 
a million  and  a half  of  dollars.  I can  readily  believe,  judging  from  the  thickness 
of  the  gold  leaf  remaining  that  the  sum  obtained  was  immense.  In  the  sacristy 
covering  one  end  of 
the  wall  is  a painting 
that  would  attract  ad- 
miration anywhere.  In 
the  central  space  is  an 
altogether  lovely  fig- 
ure of  Santa  Rosa.  In 
form  and  color  the 
compositions  would  do 
no  discredit  to  Muril- 
lo.” The  church  is  the 
work  >Df  the  great 
Tresguerras  of  Celaya. 

The  old  convent  of 
San  Agustin  is  now 
the  Federal  Building, 
containing  postoffice, 
telegraph  and  other 
federal  offices.  The 
uplifted  hands  of  the 
figures  between  the 
arches  of  the  upper 
gallery  show  all  the 
signs  of  the  deaf  and 
dumb  alphabet.  In  the  Jardin  de  la  Independencia  is  a fine  statue  of  Sehor 
Marques  de  la  Villa  del  Villar  del  Aguila,  Don  Juan  Antonio  de  Urrutia  y 
Arana,  who  contributed  $88,287  of  the  $131,091  that  it  cost  to  build  the  magnificent 
aqueduct  that  supplies  the  city  with  water.  The  aqueduct  was  commenced  in 
1720  and  finished  in  1735.  The  first  stone  of  the  fountain  and  statue  of 
the  Marques  was  laid  in  1843;  partly  destroyed  by  a cannon  ball  in  the  siege  of 
1867,  the  work  was  completed  in  1892. 

In  the  Jardin  Zenea,  which  is  the  main  plaza,  is  a delightful  little  forest 
of  tre^s  and  flowers  with  its  statue  of  Neptune  by  Tresguerras  and  a beautiful 
pagoda  where  there  is  music  in  the  evenings. 

In  one  of  the  Calzadas  of  the  Alameda  is  a column  with  a statue  of  Colum- 
bus. On  the  north  tablet  of  the  base  are  inscribed  the  arms  of  Queretaro 
and  the  memorable  dates  of  the  history  of  the  state ; on  the  east  are  the  names 
of  the  patriots  and  on  the  west  the  benefactors,  and  on  the  other  meterological 
data. 

In  the  Panteon  de  la  Cruz  is  the  handsome  mausoleum  of  the  heroine  la 
Sehora  Corregidora  Josefa  Ortiz  de  Dominguez,  whose  remains  were  brought 


CONVENT  OF  CAPUCHINAS,  MAXIMILIAN’S  PRISON,  QUERETARO. 


244 


from  the  City  of  Mexico  and  deposited  here  in  1894,  with  great  pomp  and 
ceremony  and  now,  as  one  of  the  orators  of  the  day  said,  “Queretaro  has  on 
the  east  in  the  Panteon  of  La  Cruz,  the  light  of  liberty  in  the  sarcophagus 
of  Sehora  Ortiz  de  Dominguez,  and  on  the  west,  on  the  Cerro  de  las  Cam- 
panas,  the  sepulchre  of  the  monarchy.” 

The  City  of  Queretaro,  rejoicing  in  good  government,  abounds  in  edu- 
cational and  charitable  institutions  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  civil 
College,  Normal  School,  Conservatory  of  Music,  Hospicio  Vergara,  Hospi- 
tal Civil,  School  of  Arts,  Seminario  Conciliar,  Academy  of  San  Fernando  and 
many  primary  schools. 

The  Municipal  Palace  was  in  1810  the  house  of  the  Corregidora  Dominguez 
where  Sehora  Josefa,  under  guise  of  a literary  society,  held  meetings  which 
were  attended  by  the  parties  in  arranging  for  the  war  of  Independence;  but 
through  the  key-hole  of  the  door  spies  looked  and  listened ; the  plans  were  not 
frustrated  but  hastened,  as  that  energetic  woman  sent  word  that  night  to  Hidalgo 
that  they  were  discovered  and  before  another  night  had  passed  the  patriot  priest 
had  spoken  the  grito  of  Mexican  Independence. 


CHAPEL  ON  THE  HILL  OF  THE  BELLS. 

The  State  Palace  contains  the  halls  of  legislature,  courts  and  offices  anri 
salons  of  the  Governor;  a fine  building  with  .a  patio  surrounded  by  arched 
portales,  and  in  the  rear  a pretty  garden.  The  historical  room  contains  many 
interesting  relics.  The  lock  and  key  of  the  house  of  Senora  Ortiz  de  Do- 
minguez; the  coffin  of  Maximilian;  the  stools  on  which  Mejia  and  Miramon 
sat  during  the  trial ; the  table  on  which  the  death  warrants  were  signed, 
with  the  ink-stain  and  pen ; portraits  of  the  chief  actors  in  the  country’s  his- 


245 


tory  from  Hidalgo  to  Maximilian;  battle-flags,  pictures,  and  interesting  arch- 
ives. This  collection  completed  and  many  other  important  and  interesting 
works  were  stimulated  by  the  energy  of  His  Excellency,  the  Governor,  Senor 
Don  Francisco  Gonzales  de  Cosio,  during  the  decade  from  1890. 

The  city  of  Queretaro  lies  to  the  eastward  of  the  track,  and  a good  view 
of  the  city  may  be  seen  from  passing  trains.  Just  after  leaving  the  city,  go- 
ing south,  the  track  passes  under  the  aqueduct  of  the  city’s  water  supply,  which 
is  nearly  five  miles  long.  The  tallest  arch  is  nearly  a hundred  feet  high.  The 
water  comes  from  the  mountains,  passing  through  a tunnel,  over  the  aqueduct, 
and  is  distributed  through  the  city  by  fountains.  One  of  the  prettiest  is  in  the 
main  plaza,  amid  a very  bower  of  palms  and  tropical  trees ; and,  by  the  way, 
you  that  have  been  looking  for  palm  trees  all  along  may  see  the  first  at  Quere- 
taro. The  climate  is  very  delightful.  Year  in  and  year  out  it  is  one  succession 
of  early  summer  days.  Queretaro  is  the  place  of  opals. 

Queretaro  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Queretaro,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  of  Central  Mexico,  being  a distributing  point  and  a manu- 
facturing center.  The  principal  industries  are  the  manufacture  of  cotton  goods, 
leather  and  leather  wares,  and  sugar.  The  Hercules  cotton  factory  is  one  of 
the  largest  in  the  country;  it  employs  several  hundred  operatives,  taken  from 
the  native  population.  Population  of  Queretaro,  34,576.  Altitude  5,963  feet. 

Horse  cars  run  from  the  station  to  the  plaza,  and  beyond  to  the  Hercules 
mills  and  the  suburbs,  and  the  Canada,  a delightful  suburban  village.  Distance 
from  the  City  of  Mexico,  153  miles. 

Saltillo.  That  picturesque  garment,  the  zerape,  so  much  affected  by  the 

Sal-teel-yo  Mexican,  and  which  does  overcoat  duty  for  a large  contingent 
not  possessed  of  the  wherewith  to  buy  a sobre  todo  of  more  modern  fashion, 
has  its  chief  point  of  manufacture  at  Saltillo,*  at  least  those  that  have  artis- 
tic coloring,  and  whose  textile  is  the  most  delicately  woven,  with  the  softest 
finish,  are  native  to  that  city,  and  to  possess  one  from  the  hand  looms  of 
that  city  was  to  own  the  very  best.  The  zerape  of  to-day  is  machine  woven, 
and  though  some  are  made  by  hand,  they  are  not  the  things  of  beauty  they 
were  in  times  past,  and  one  of  ancient  date  is  really  a joy  forever.  An  old 
Mexican  explained  to  me  the  difference  in  colors  then  and  now,  and  the 
cause  of  the  change.  He  said  that  in  the  old  days  the  designs  of  decorative 
colors  were  taken  from  the  plumage  of  the  birds  and  from  the  flowers  of 
the  land,  so  there  were  softer  tints  where  natural  beauty  blended  them,  than 
in  these  modern  days,  when  the  untutored  eye  is  caught  by  the  flaring  colors 
of  cheap  tints  and  gaudy  combinations  of  the  more  civilized  but  less  taste- 
ful foreigner,  who  unwittingly,  in  the  wares  he  sold  the  natives,  changed  the 
whole  school  of  coloring  in  the  native  mind.  This  applies,  not  only  to  the 
zerapes  of  Saltillo,  but  to  the  pottery  of  Patzcuaro  and  Guadalajara. 

Saltillo  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila,  which  once  included  all 
of  Texas.  The  city  was  founded  in  1586,  but  was  not  incorporated  until  1827. 
The  location  is  just  on  the  rise  of  the  plateau,  and  the  climate  is  a delightful 
one,  with  only  a very  few  days  of  cold  weather  in  all  the  year.  All  the  fruits 
of  the  temperate  zone,  and  many  of  the  tropics,  are  grown.  Apples  and 
oranges,  pears  and  bananas,  are  found  in  the  same  gardens  that  are  on  either 
side  of  the  street  through  which  the  railroad  runs.  The  short  distance  from 
the  station  to  the  very  pretty  plaza  may  be  made  by  street  cars,  or  carriages, 
always  waiting  the  arrival  of  trains.  The  driver  will  make  a contract,  at 
very  low  figures,  and  it  may  be  that  there  is  a lack  of  elegance  in  equip- 
ment, yet  it  takes  you  to  the  lovely  little  alameda,  to  the  baths  of  San  Lor- 
enzo or  Alta  Mira,  and  to  the  churches,  which  we  call  San  Francisco  or  Car- 


240 


men,  and  brings  you  safely  to  the  hotel.  Water  is  brought  to  the  city  by 
means  of  a long  aqueduct  extending  back  into  the  hills. 

The  battlefield  of  Buena  Vista  is  about  five  miles  south  of  Saltillo,  hardly 
worth  the  while  of  an  excursion,  as  it  may  be  seen  from  the  windows  of  the 
cars.  The  field  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  track.  This,  and  the  fort  on  the 
hill,  a relic  of  the  French  occupation,  is  all  there  is  to  connect  Saltillo  with 
the  country’s  history. 

Saltillo  is  on  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  606  miles  from  the  capital. 

Salvatierra.  Down  in  the  Lerma  Valley  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in 

Salva-te'-er'-ra  Mexico,  and,  withal,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  thriving — 

going  on  in  age  to  its  second  century,  and  possessing  extensive  cotton  and 
woolen  mills.  Long  ago  Salvatierra  was  a trading  point,  and  its  location  in 
the  midst  of  a fertile  plain  has  made  it  a place  of  importance. 

The  tower  on  the  north  of  the  track,  seen  from  the  car  windows,  is  that 
of  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  las  Luces,  the  parish  church,  and  a very 
fine  one,  with  handsome  decorations  and  paintings.  There  are  other  churches 
well  worth  a visit.  The  Plaza,  the  Alameda  and  the  markets  are  all  inter- 
esting, but  the  most  picturesque  is  the  bridge  of  stone  arches  which  spans 
the  Rio  Lerma,  as  old,  almost,  as  the  city  is.  It  is  a picture  in  itself,  with 
its  quaint  traffic  crossing  to  and  fro,  going  to  town  and  country  with  the 

product  of  the  field  and  farm,  or  the  results  of  tienda  trades  in  town.  The 

town  was  founded  in  1643,  and  named  for  the  then  viceroy.  The  lands  were 
donated  by  Don  Andres  Alderete  and  his  wife  for  the  city,  for  which  they 
received  an  annuity  from  the  crown  of  2,000  pesos.  The  location  of  Salvatierra 
was  in  the  path  of  marching  armies;  the  city  suffered  more  or  less  during 
the  various  wars,  but  recovered  rapidly,  and  now  the  progress  of  peace  is 
evidenced  in  all  her  streets.  Salvatierra  is  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  on 
the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  197  miles  from  the  City. 

San  Luis  Potosi.  There  is  San  Luis  and  a St.  Louis  in  every  coun-. 

San  Lu-ese  Po-to-see'  try,  but  there  is  only  one  San  Luis  Potosi — only 

one  San  Luis  of  the  Treasure — that  in  Mexico,  the  capital  of  the  State  of 

that  name,  and  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  cities  in  all  that  country.  In  the 
midst  of  a spreading  plain  of  great  fertility,  the  gardens  and  groves  extend 
into  fields  that  stretch  away  to  the  circling  hills,  that  are  rich  in  mineral 
deposits  of  the  precious  metals,  notably  those  of  the  rich  San  Pedro  mines, 

where  the  annual  silver  output  runs  up  into  the  millions.  Long  before  the 

advent  of  the  Spaniard  the  mines  were  known  to  the  natives,  and  were  re- 
vealed by  a pious  Indian,  with  the  hope  of  advancing  the  cause  of  Chris- 
tianity. A venerable  monk  called  the  place  by  its  present  name,  from  its 
resemblance  to  the  Potosi  mines  in  Peru.  Since  then  the  production  has 
been  in  untold  millions  down  to  the  present  day,  when  the  annual  coinage  of 
the  mint  is  more  than  $3,000,000. 

San  Luis  was  not  made  a city  till  about  1666,  although  a settlement  was 
made  there  100  years  earlier,  so  the  city  has  not  been  one  of  a mushroom 
growth;  and  the  advent  of  the  railroad  has  not  been  the  cause  of  its  pros- 
perity, because  this  city  has  been,  for  a hundred  years  or  more,  a great  trad- 
ing center  for  the  eastern,  as  Guadalajara  has  been  for  the  western  slope. 
Until  the  completion  of  the  railways,  the  means  of  transportation  to  the  sea 
was  by  pack  mules  across  the  plains  and  over  the  mountains.  But  now  San 
Luis  Potosi  has  greater  facilities  and  becomes  a railroad  center,  the  Mexican 
National  Railroad  leading  north  and  south,  and  the  Central  westward  to  the 
main  line  and  east  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Tampico.  The  stations  of  both 
roads  are  near  the  city’s  center,  adjoining  one  of  the  principal  plazas — a fea- 
ture not  common  in  Mexico,  nearly  all  the  stations  being  more  or  less  dis- 


247 

tant,  but,  as  at  San  Luis  Potosi  also,  with  horse-car  connections  to  the  hotels 
and  plazas. 

San  Luis  is  noted  for  the  cleanliness  of  its  streets,  and  the  bright  fresh 
look  of  its  houses,  which  is  looked  after  by  the  City  Fathers.  An  ordinance 
prevents  the  citizens  from  becoming  negligent  as  to  the  appearance  of  their 
dwellings,  and  they  must  be  kept  in  order  at  all  times.  It  is  pleasant  to 
walk  through  these  streets,  and  through  the  plazas  and  plazuelas,  of  which 
there  are  many,  with  their  trees  and  flowers,  fountains  and  pagodas,  where 
there  is  music  in  the  evenings,  and  where  the  people  do  congregate.  And 
there’s  many  an  open  doorway  that  shows  the  pretty  patios,  with  their 
miniature  gardens  filled  with  flowers  fountains  and  singing  birds,  and  these 


A FOUNTAIN  OF  SAN  LUIS  POTOSI. 

go  to  tell  that  the  brightness  and  freshness  of  a San  Luis  Potosi  house  is 
not  all  on  the  outside.  The  markets  and  market  places,  nearby  the  hotels, 
are  to  be  included  in  the  walks  about  town,  and  &re  intensely  interesting, 
as  all  Mexican  markets  are.  The  State  Capitol,  the  Library  and  Museum, 
with  nearly  100,000  volumes,  El  Instituto  (the  State  College),  the  Alhondiga 
and  the  Lonja  Mercantil,  are  the  prominent  places  of  the  city  to  be  visited, 
and  are  all  buildings  above  the  average  in  every  way.  Horse-car  rides  may 
be  made  to  Guadalupe  and  Tequisquiapan,  the  Baths  of  La  Soledad,  to  Ax- 
cala  and  Santiago,  the  cars  starting  from  the  main  plaza;  the  fares  are  from 
five  to  twenty-five  cents,  according  to  the  distance  traveled.  In  the  rainy 
se^son^  as  an  ad^itignal  attraction^  the  hprse  cars  carry  signs  conveying  the 


248 


information  that  there  is  water  in  the  river.  Good  carriages  may  be  had 
at  the  railway  stations,  or  on  the  plaza,  at  from  fifty  cents  to  a dollar  per 
hour.  The  churches  are  more  than  usually  interesting,  and  are,  for  the  most 
part,  fine  examples  of  the  prevailing  styles  of  architecture — are  rich  in  na- 
tive decorative  art,  in  carvings,  paintings  and  pictures. 

The  Cathedral,  formerly  the  parish  church,  is  on  the  Plaza  Mayor,  a 
really  fine  building,  with  ambitious  towers  built  of  stone;  the  pillars  and  altars 
are  also  of  cut  stone  and  the  sumptuous  decorations,  a triumph  of  art,  were 
made  under  the  direction  of  Bishop  Montes  de  Oca,  1890-98;  the  Bishop’s 
Palace,  adjoining  the  Cathedral,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  land;  one  of  the 
windows  opens  on  to  a gallery  which  overlooks  the  interior  of  the  great 
church.  The  See  of  San  Luis  Potosi  was  not  promulgated  till  1854,  though 
the  first  church  was  founded  in  1583. 

The  two  tall  towers  of  red  stone  seen  from  the  west  windows  of  the  cars, 
just  south  of  the  city,  are  those  of  the  Church  of  Guadalupe,  standing  high 
above  the  plain  and  the  surrounding  trees,  and  may  be  seen  for  miles  up  and 
down  the  road,  an  imposing  landmark,  that  shows  where  the  city  is,  long  be- 
fore it  can  be  seen. 

In  the  fa9ade  of  the  church  is  a fine  clock,  presented  by  the  King  of  Spain, 
in  return  for  the  gift  of  the  largest  single  piece  of  silver  ore  ever  taken 
from  a mine.  The  church  is  well  worth  a visit,  which  may  best  be  made  by 
a carriage  drive  out  the  Paseo,  passing  the  markets,  the  fountains,  with  their 
scores  of  quaintly  costumed  water-carriers,  with  queer  wheelbarrows,  carry- 
ing from  one  to  three  earthen  jugs,  the  barracks  and  the  penitentiary — a 
somewhat  dusty  road,  but  an  interesting  drive,  with  much  to  see. 

In  the  Church  of  El  Carmen  are  some  especially  fine  paintings,  illustra- 
tive of  the  saints — both  native  and  foreign — if  saints  may  be  so  designated.  On 
the  door  is  written  in  Spanish  the  words  which  say,  “who  asks  here  shall  re- 
ceive, who  seeks  shall  find,  and  who  knocks  it  shall  be  opened.”  The  other 
churches  are  Merced,  San  Agustin  and  San  Francisco;  one  never  tires  of 
the  churches  of  Mexico,  and  cannot  tire  of  these. 

They  are  a thrifty  people  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  the  stores  and  shops 
attest  the  fact.  Every  one  has  a “this-is-my-busy-day”  look;  the  dealers  are 
intent  on  business,  and  the  customers,  in  crowds,  drive  sharp  bargains.  The 
gold  and  silver  embroidery  of  the  native  is  a pretty  souvenir  to  buy;  it  is  in 
the  shape  of  slippers  and  pieces  for  ornament,  that  may  be  bought  at  vary- 
ing prices,  according  as  the  work  is  more  or  less  elaborate.  Pottery,  feather 
and  palm  work  may  also  be  found.  As  I have  said,  San  Luis  Potosi  is  a 
railroad  center.  There  is  a frequent  train  service,  and  the  stop  may  be  long 
or  short,  going  south  to  the  City,  north  to  the  United  States,  east  to  Tam- 
pico or  west  to  Aguas  Calientes. 

San  Luis  Potosi  is  reached  by  the  Mexican  National  and  Mexican  Central 
Railways.  The  distance  from  the  City  of  Mexico  is  362  miles. 

San  Miguel  de  Alleude.  A picturesquely  pretty  city,  that  is  set  upon 
San  Me-gil'  de  Al-yen'-de  a hill  and  cannot  be  hid,  is  San  Miguel  de 
Allende,  where  its  rugged  streets,  and  gardens  terraced  on  the  steep  sides 
of  the  enchanted  Cerro  de  Moctezuma,  look  down  over  the  valley  of  Laja 
and  to  the  blue  hills  far  beyond.  The  ride  of  a^  mile  from  the  railway, 
in  the  old-time  coaches,  is  an  interesting  one,  leading  over  a hill  and  inter- 
vening valley,  where  an  ancient  bridge  of  crumbling  arches  crosses  a stream 
of  clear,  sparkling  water,  and  enters  the  quaint  old  town  that  lies  spread  out 
on  the  hillside  above;  then,  with  a zigzag  course,  it  is  a climb  to  a plaza 
that  one  has  no  hint  or  suspicion  of,  it  is  such  a pretty  one,  till  the  coach 
pulls  up  in  front  of  the  hotel  th^t  faces  it,  ?ind  whose  casement  windows  look 


249 


out  over  the  prettiest  oi  evergreen  trees.  The  hotel  is  a surprise  as  well, 
and  was  once  the  palatial  home  of  a wealthy  and  pious  man,  Sehor  Don 
Manuel  Tomas  de  la  Canal,  and  his  wife,  who  donated  the  very  beautiful 
chapel  of  the  Casa  de  Loreto,  a chapel  that  is  a very  poem  of  color  and 
carving.  If  architecture  be  frozen  music,  then  this  gem  is  a dulcet  melody, 
where  there  is  a delicious  warmth  in  its  very  congealing.  But  to  go  back 
to  the  hotel  again,  the  image  of  the  Virgin  of  Loreto  over  the  door  was 
placed  there  through  the  reverence  of  the  family.  Canal,  when  it  was  their 
home. 

The  very  beautiful  Gothic  church  on  the  plaza,  the  only  one  of  its  kind 
in  Mexico,  was  the  work  of  a native  architect,  who  knew  not  the  process 
of  “blue  prints,”  and  drew  his  plans  with  a stick  in  the  sand;  these  were  the 
only  guides  for  the  builders  to  work  by.  The  original  church  was  com- 
pleted nearly  a hundred  years  ago,  and  the  interior,  with  the  exception  of  a 
renovation  in  1842-3,  remains  the  same,  only  the  fa9ade  and  the  beautiful 
Gothic  towers  being 
new;  this  is  the 
parish  church.  The 
others  are  San  Ra- 
fael, adjoining  the 
Parroquia,  in  which 
there  are  some 
strange  statuary  and 
paintings,  and  at- 
tached to  this  church 
is  the  Casa  de  Loreto, 
one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful things  in  Mexico 
in  carvings,  gildings 
and  glazed  tiles,  pre- 
sented by  Senor 
Canal  in  1635.  The 
names  of  the  other 
churches  worth  visit- 
ing are  the  Concep- 
cion, San  Francisco, 

Nuestra  Sehora  de  la 
Soledad  and  the 
Chapel  of  Calvario,  at  the  nopal  cactus. 

the  top  of  a steep  hill,  which  the  wickedest  sinners  approach  on  their  knees, 
stopping  at  the  fourteen  stations  of  the  cross,  on  the  hillside,  to  pray. 

San  Miguel  has  an  important  place  in  the  history  of  the  country.  The 
patriot,  Ygnacio  Allende,  was  born  here,  to  which  fact  is  due  the  addition  of 
Allende  to  the  name  of  the  town.  About  a dozen  miles  distant,  to  the  north, 
is  the  village  and  Santuario  de  Jesus  Nazareno  de  Atotonilco,  founded  in 
1748,  famous  as  the  place  whence  Hidalgo  took  the  banner  of  the  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe  that  became  the  standard  of  Independence,  and,  with  Allende, 
carried  it  to  San  Miguel,  where  the  Queen’s  regiment  joined  the  insurgent 
forces,  which  became  a victorious  patriot  army.  The  visit  to  San  Miguel  is 
not  complete  without  an  excursion  to  Atotonilco.  San  Miguel  was  founded 
in  1560,  though  the  natives  claim  a foundation  by  Fray  Juan  de  San  Miguel 
in  1542  in  the  building  of  the  little  church  about  three  miles  westward. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  city  and  high  up  on  the  hill  are  some  very 

beautiful  gardens,  laid  in  pretty  terraces  gf  flowers,  watered  by  a hundred  lit* 


250 


tie  cascades  of  clear  water,  that  come  down  from  the  springs  still  higher 
up  on  the  cerro,  where  the  baths  are — delightful  baths,  where  the  water 
comes  pouring  from  under  the  rocks  and  into  the  baths,  fresh  and  pure, 
accommodatingly  warm  in  winter  and  cool  in  summer.  To  get  there  one 
may  ride,  but  the  carriage  rattles  over  some  very  stony  streets,  and  although 
it  is  a climb,  I would  suggest  to  walk.  Leave  the  plaza,  walk  one  square  up 
the  hill,  turn  to  the  right  one  square,  then  another  up  and  again  to  the  right, 
till  you  come  to  the  gardens. 

San  Mjigtiel  is  in  the  State 
of  Guanajuato,  on  the  Mex- 
ican National  Railroad,  253 
miles  from  the  city. 

Sayula.  Is  a city  of 
Sah-yu-la  8,819  inhabi- 
tants, on  the  Pacific  division 
of  the  Mexican  Central 
Railway,  in  the  center  of 
a rich  mining  district, 
surrounded  by  fertile  fields, 
85  miles  from  Guadalajara. 
Altitude  of  Sayula  is  4,674 
feet. 

Silao.  S i 1 a o was 
See-low'  founded  in  the 
year  1553,  by  Don  Fran- 
cisco Cervantes  Rendon, 
but  was  not  pronounced  a 
city  till  1861.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  a fertile  valley, 
close  to  the  silver  hills  of 
Guanajuato.  The  comple- 
tion of  the  railway,  the  es- 
tablishment of  shops,  and 
the  building  of  the  branch 
to  Guanajuato,  enhanced 
the  importance  of  the  place 
and  caused  a wakening 
from  the  three  hundred 
years’  nap,  from  the  settle- 
ment to  the  incorporation 
of  the  city.  It  is  worth  the 
while  to  wander  through 
the  narrow  streets.  The 
Plaza  Mayor  is  not  far  from 
GOTHIC  TOWER— SAN  MIGUEL.  the  Station.  Santiago,  com- 

pleted in  1728,  is  the  parish  church.  It  has  a particularly  pretty  tower,  tall  and 
slender.  The  Church  of  El  Sefior  de  la  Vera  Cruz  contains  a curious  figure  of 
the  Christ  in  papier  mache,  antedating  the  conquest  of  Spain  by  the  Moors.  It 
was  presented  to  the  Indians  by  the  missionaries.  The  Santuario  del  Padre 
Jesus  was  built  in  1798.  The  only  other  church  of  importance  is  San  Nicolas. 

Silao  is  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  238 
miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  fifteen  miles  from  Guanajuato,  by  branch 
rp^d. 


261 


Tampico.  In  the  tropical  tierra  caliente^  Tampico  lies  cn  the  Gulf 
Tam-pee'-ko  shore,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Panuco,  which  is  a truly  noble 
and  great  river,  in  which  the  navies  of  the  world  might  ride.  ladeed,  Tam- 
pico is  the  rival  of  Vera  Cruz,  as  the  chief  seaport  on  the  east  c^ast  of  Mex- 
ico, and,  with  the  completed  jetties  and  the  deep  rivers,  the  g^eat  merchant 
ships  may  make  fast  to  the  piers,  to  receive  and  discharge  their  cargoes. 
The  rivers  empyting  here  are  navigable  for  some  two  hundred  miles  into  the 
interior,  where  the  scenery  is  rich  in  tropic  beauty.  About  ten  miles  west 
of  Tampico  there  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city,  a relic  of  the  Aztecs,  or 
some  other  race  of  the  pre-Cortez  days.  There  is  a considerable  hill  and 


AT  TAMPICO. 

the  remains  of  embankments  and  other  earthworks,  together  with  a large, 
rudely  sculptured  stone.  At  the  summit  is  a collection  of  pyramidal  and 
conical  mounds,  many  of  them  excellently  preserved  by  a sort  of  shell  of 
rectangular  stone  slabs  set  closely  together  on  edge.  Some  excavations, 
made  several  years  ago,  showed  the  interior  to  be  composed  of  earth,  com- 
mingled with  ashes  and  broken  pottery.  The  ruins  extend  for  several  miles, 
and  a populous  city  must  once  have  occupied  the  site.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  houses  of  the  inhabitants,  built  of  cane  and  reed,  similar  to  those  of 
to-day,  stood  on  the  top  of  the  mounds. 

At  Tamos,  several  miles  above  Tampico,  is  the  first  sight  of  the  Panuco, 
coming  from  the  interior.  The  stream  is  navigable  to  this  point  for  ocean 
steamers  of  considerable  draught. 


252 


Just  beyond  Tamos,  the  Tamesi,  another  large  river^ 
is  crossed  by  a long  and  substantial  drawbridge,  at  its 
junction  with  the  Panuco.  Both  streams  are  navigated 
by  steamboats  into  the  interior,  and  they  are  well  worth 
the  while  of  the  voyage,  the  scenery  being  particularly 
fine.  At  Tampico  the  station  is  close  to  the  water, 
where  the  view  is  enlivened  by  the  various  craft  lying 
at  the  wharves  and  anchored  in  the  stream — steamships, 
schooners,  brigs,  river  steamers,  tugs,  lighters,  etc. — a 
respectable  fleet  altogether,  and  but  an  earnest  of  what 
will  be  seen  here  in  the  future.  Tampico  is  an  attrac- 
tive looking  place,  with  an  architectural  appearance 
quite  different  from  what  may  be  seen  elsewhere  in 
Mexico.  It  seems  a combination  of  New  Orleans  with  a distinctively  Spanish 
style.  The  buildings  mostly  have  pitched  roofs,  and  wood  is  more  commonly 
employed  in  construction  than  elsewhere  in  Mexico,  though  the  walls  are 
chiefly  of  massive  masonry.  The  houses  of  many  colors  have  wooden  verandas 
along  their  fronts,  at  each  story,  in  the  style  common  in  the  southern  states  of 
our  country.  A largo,  part  of  the  city  stands  on  a bluff,  which  rises  from  near 
the  river  to  a height  of  perhaps  twenty  to  fifty  feet  or  more,  and  at  the  end  of 
two  of  the  streets  broad  stone  steps  descend  to  the  water  front. 

On  the  river  front  is  the  most  picturesque  market,  with  its  tents  and 
scores  of  white  umbrellas.  Near  it  is  the  Plaza,  with  an  almost  darkness 
of  dense  shade.  The  trees  are  the  homes  of  myriads  of  twittering,  noisy 
ravens.  The  river  at  Tampico  is  i,8oo  feet  wide,  and  has  an  average  breadth 
of  800  feet;  for  several  miles  above  its  mouth,  the  minimum  depth  is  thirty 
feet.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  so 
slight — only  about  eighteen  inches — that 
there  is  no  inflowing  current,  and,  with 
the  construction  of  the  jetties,  there  is  a 
constant  out-going  scour  across  the  bar. 

For  the  greater  part  of  the  way  the 
river  banks  are  low  and  marshy,  but  on 
the  right  shore,  two  or  three  miles  be- 
low the  town,  there  is  a line  of  high, 
rocky  bluffs,  that  sometime  vdll  prob- 
ably be  in  demand  as  a place  of  sum- 
mer residence,  with  their  fine  view  of  the 
sea  and  sweep  of  breeze  from  the  Gulf, 
which,  blowing  soft  and  free  for  most 
of  the  time,  makes  the  air  agreeably  re- 
freshing. To  reach  Tampico  from  the 
interior,  change  cars  on  the  main  line 
of  the  Central  at  Aguas  Calientes,  and 
on  the  National  at  San  Luis  Potosi,  or 
proceed,  via  the  Monterey  division  of 
the  Mexican  Central  Railway  from 
Monterey  on  the  National  road. 

Tampico  is  a regular  port^  of  the 
Ward  Line,  and  other  steamer  lines  from 
all  parts  of  the  world  are  attracted 
hither  by  the  fine  harbor,  made  by  the 
completion  of  the  jetties,  two  long  arms 
of  stone  walls  extending  out  into  tho 


UA  BARRA. 


253 

sea,  more  than  a thousand  feet,  and  one  of  the  most  important  improve- 
ments of  the  age. 

The  village  at  the  jetties  is  called  La  Barra  (the  bar);  there  is  one  of  the 
finest  beaches  in  the  world  and  a magnificently  rolling  surf  that  renders  the 
bathing  fine,  and  the  temperature  is  such  that  it  may  be  indulged  in  in  winter 
as  well  as  summer  days.  There  is  a pavilion  and  dressing  rooms  on  the 
beach.  Trains  run  on  regular  schedules  between  Tampico  and  La  Barra. 

Texcoco.  Texcoco  was  the  ancient  capital  of  the  great  Netzahualcoyotl, 
Tez-co'-co  and,  in  1431,  was  the  rival  of  Tenochtitlan,  now  the  City  of 
Mexico.  At  that  time  Texcoco  might  have  been  called  the  Athens  of  the 
western  world,  as  Tenochtitlan  was  its  Rome. 

I After  the  defeat  of  the  Dismal  Night  and  his  march  around  the  northern 
shores  of  the  lakes  Cortez  came  from  Tlaxcala  and  Cholula  to  Texcoco,  and 
brought  with  him  the  bergantines  across  the  mountains,  put  them  together 
on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  and  prepared  to  take  his  army  to  lay  siege  to 
the  capital  of  Montezuma.  The  Tlaxcalans,  already  his  allies,  the  Cholulans 
destroyed  by  massacre,  he  found  the  people  of  Texcoco  in  the  throes  of 
dissension  and  civil  war,  and  there  was  naught  in  the  way  of  his  march  to 
Tenochtitlan.  The  base  of  operations  was  at  Texcoco,  and  here,  later,  Cor- 
tez made  his  abode  while  under 
a royal  exile  from  the  City  of 
Mexico,  and  here  for  some  years 
his  bones  were  buried.  In  the 
royal  palace  of  Netzahualcoyotl,  at 
Texcoco,  was  a courtyard,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  which  were  two 
halls  of  justice.  In  the  principal 
one,  called  the  “Tribunal  of  God,” 
was  a throne  of  pure  gold,  inlaid 
with  turquoise  and  other  precious 
stones.  On  a stool  in  front  was 
placed  a human  skull  and  crowned 
with  an  immense  emerald  of  a 
pyramidal  form,  and  surmounted  at  la  barra. 

by  an  aigrette  of  brilliant  plumes  and  precious  stones.  The  skull  was  laid 
on  a heap  of  military  weapons,  shields,  quivers,  bows  and  arrows.  The 
walls  were  hung  with  tapestry,  made  of  the  hair  of  different  wild  animals 
of  rich  and  various  colors,  festooned  by  gold  rings  and  embroidered  with 
figures  of  birds  and  flowers.  Above  the  throne  was  a canopy  of  variegated 
plumage,  from  the  center  of  which  shot  forth  resplendent  rays  of  gold  and 
jewels.  The  other  tribunal,  called  “the  king’s,”  was  also  surrounded  by  a 
gorgeous  canopy  of  feathers,  on  which  emblazoned  the  royal  arms. 

Texcoco  is  a pretty  little  town,  with  narrow  streets,  shaded  by  orange  trees, 
centering  on  a plaza,  where  there  is  a bust  of  Netzahualcoyotl.  On  a corner 
south  of  the  plaza  is  a fountain  surmounted  by  a statue  of  Hercules,  pre- 
sented by  Senor  Ruperto  Jaspeado.  The  old  Church  of  San  Francisco,  founded 
by  Fray  Pedro  de  Gante,  was  the  tomb  of  Cortez.  There  are  many  ruins 
and  relics  of  the  forgotten  ages  in  and  around  Texcoco.  In  the  south  part 
are  three  pyramids,  and  in  the  north  another.  West  of  the  town,  about 
three  miles,  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  wall,  near  the  old  Church  of  Huixotla. 
About  three  miles  east  are  the  most  beautiful  gardens  of  the  Molino  de  Flores 
(the  mill  of  the  flowers).  Let  the  mind  be  disabused  of  anything  like  a flour 
mill,  or  a barn-like  structure  with  dusty  sides  and  roof.  Heavy  gates  open 
through  stone  walls  and  admit  to  what  seems  the  court  of  a mediaeval  castle. 


254 


Tortuous  stairways  of  stone  lead  to  the  castle,  the  summer  home  of  the 
ancient  family,  Cervantes,  who  have  owned  this  bit  of  another  world  for 
some  centuries.  Beyond  the  gates,  a little  farther,  are  the  gardens  that 
might  have  been  a part  of  Eden.  There  are  grottoes  and  cascades,  and  a 
chapel  that  is  also  the  tomb  of  the  Cervantes,  with  sepulchres  cut  in  the 
solid  rock.  Near  by  is  the  “laughing  hill,”  Tetzcotzinco,  the  favorite  resort 
of  Netzahualcoyotl.  There  are  terraced  walks,  and  stairways  winding  around 
the  hill.  A basin  in  the  rock  has  been  called  Montezuma’s  bath.  It  was 
probably  a distributing  reservoir  to  the  gardens  below.  There  are  some  won- 
derful examples  of  native  engineering  near  the  “laughing  hill,”  where  the 
hills  are  connected  across  the  valleys  by  embankments,  in  some  places  fifty 
feet  high,  on  the  top  of  which  was  built  an  aqueduct  about  two  feet  wide, 
with  a conduit  about  a foot  in  width.  In  all  it  was  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 


THE  WATER  WAGON. 

in  length,  and  much  of  it  yet  remains  in  a perfect  state  of  preservation.  Three 
miles  west  is  the  Hacienda  de  Chapingo,  belonging  to  the  estate  of  the  late 
ex-president.  General  Gonzales. 

Texcoco  is  in  the  State  of  Mexico,  on  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  twenty 
miles  from  the  City. 

Tlaxcala.  The  very  name  is  synonymous  with  antiquity  and  reminiscent 

Tlaz-cal'-a  of  Cortez  and  his  indomitable  band  of  adventurers.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  all  Mexico,  both  for  the  beauty  of  its 
location  and  its  historic  associations. 

On  leaving  the  train  at  the  little  station  of  Santa  Ana,  the  trave'ler  will 
find  two  horse  cars  at  the  station,  first  and  second  class  respectively.  From 
Santa  Ana  to  Tlaxcala  is  about  six  miles,  through  beautiful  woods  or  through 


255 


cultivated  fields,  the  hedges  on  either  side  of  the  road  covered  with  wild  flow- 
ers, filling  the  air  with  perfume.  The  route  is  through  the  quaint  little  town 
of  San  Pablo  Apetitlan;  thence  across  the  river  and  past  the  Church  of  San 
Esteban.  To  the  west  is  a magnificent  view  of  the  two  mighty  volcanoes 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl,  their  summits  crowned  with  eternal  snows, 
dazzlingly  white  and  glistening  in  the  sunlight;  to  the  east  may  be  seen  the 
lofty  and  beautiful  “Malintzi,” — the  whole  forming  a picture  perhaps  un- 
equaled on  this  continent,  or  in  the  world.  At  last,  after  a ride  of  about 
forty-five  minutes,  the  town  of  Tlaxcala  is  reached  and  the  car  stops  in 
the  queer  little  plaza. 

Tlaxcala  is  situated  in  a valley,  with  hills  entirely  surrounding  it,  but  we 
read  that  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  when  Tlaxcala  boasted  300,000  instead 
of  4,000  inhabitants,  as  now,  the  town  was  built  on  the  hills,  the  valley  be- 
ing reserved  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  it  is  probable  that  from  this  fact  it 
takes  its  name,  which  means  “Land  of  Bread.” 

The  museum  is  never  “open”  to  the  public,  for  the  reason,  presumably, 
that  it  is  only  tourists  who  care  to  visit  it,  but  it  is  a very  easy  matter  to 
obtain  admission.  The  visitor  should  call  at  the  Municipal  Palace  (a  build- 
ing which  dates  back  to  the  Spanish  conquest),  situated  on  the  Plaza,  and 
one  of  the  obliging  officials  will  send  with  you  a or  servant,  with 

the  keys  of  the  museum  which  is  situated  on  the  next 
street.  Before  leaving,  however,  he  will  naturally  ex- 
pect that  you  will  wish  to  see  the  Council  Room,  and 
if  the  vistior  is  not  awed  on  being  admitted  to  this 
celebrated  chamber,  he  will,  at  least,  be  interested 
in  the  pictures  which  adorn  its  walls.  These  are 
copies  of  the  original  pictures  of  the  great  Tlaxcalan 
chieftains  who  allied  themselves  with  Cortez,  namely: 

Lorenzo  Mazihcatzin,  Chief  of  Ocotetulco;  Gonzalo 
Tlahuexolotzin,  Chief  of  Tepeticpac;  Bartholome 
Zitlalpopoca,  Chief  of  Quiahuiztlan,  and  Vicente 
Xicohtencatl,  Chief  of  Tizatlan.  The  first  name  of 
each  is  the  “Christian”  name,  given  to  them  by  the 
Spaniards  when  they  were  baptized,  which  was  in  the 
year  1520.  The  Museum  contains  a most  interest- 
ing collection  of  idols  and  of  Tlaxcalan  pot-  church  roof,  tlaxcala. 
tery,  found  at  various  times  in  the  town  and  surrounding  country,  but 
that  which  the  visitor  will  most  wish  to  see  is  the  “Banner  of  Cortez,” 
as  it  is  usually  called,  but  to  be  more  correct,  the  banner  which  Cortez  pre- 
sented to  the  Tlaxcalans.  It  is  kept  in  a glass  case  and  is  in  an  excellent 
state  of  preservation.  In  the  next  case  are  the  silken  gowns  which  the 
chieftains  wore  when  baptized,  and  the  embroidered  vestments  of  the  priests. 
These  are  in  such  a perfect  condition  that  it  is  hard  to  believe  they  are  nearly 
400  years  old;  they  are  an  eloquent  memorial  to  the  skill  of  their  makers. 
Here,  too,  are  more  pictures  representing  the  famous  four  chieftains,  as 
well  as  old  plans  and  maps  of  Tlaxcala. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco  is  the  oldest  in  America.  Its  foundations 
were  commenced  in  the  year  1521,  the  same  year  that  the  conquest  of  Mexico 
was  completed.  Here  everything  is  antique;  the  very  chairs  used  by  the 
good  fathers,  at  the  present  day,  look  as  if  they  might  be  a hundred  years 
old.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Tercer  Orden  is  an  enormous  font,  the  actual 
font  in  which  were  baptized  the  four  chieftains  whose  portraits  and  garments 
are  in  the  Museum.  On  the  other  side  of  the  chapel  is  an  old  pulpit,  the 
tablet  informing  us  that  from  it  was  preached  the  Christian  gospel,  for  the 


256 


first  time  “in  this  new  world.”  The  church  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a 
hill,  and  is  approached  by  a paved  way  leading  up  from  the  queer  old  mar- 
ket place,  where,  if  you  loiter  a while,  you  will  hear  as  much  Indian  spoken 
as  Spanish.  The  men  and  women  sit  on  the  ground  beside  their  wares,  laugh- 
ing and  chatting  among  themselves  in  the  Aztec  language.  You  will  find, 
however,  that  they  talk  Spanish  perfectly,  if  you  wish  to  buy  any  of  the 
luscious  fruits  or  other  commodities  displayed. 

The  paved  way  leading  up  from  the  market  place  to  the  church  passes 
under  an  old  archway  which  connects  the  bell  tower  with  the  building  which 
was  formerly  the  convent,  but  now  used  by  the  government  as  the  barracks. 
Facing  the  church  and  the  barracks  is  a paved  court-yard,  which  extends 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  to  the  edge  of  the  hill,  the  side  fronting  the 


cliff  being  protected  by  a low  wall.  Directly  under  this,  about  fifty  or  sixty 
feet  beneath,  is  the  “bull  ring,”  affording  the  soldiers  (or  at  least  the  officers) 
of  the  barracks  an  excellent  place  from  which  to  view  the  corrida  without 
payment.  The  “Xicotencatl”  Theatre  is  opposite  the  San  Carlos  Hotel,  but 
it  looks  as  if  it  had  not  been  open  for  years.  It  is  a walk  of  about  fifteen 
minutes  to  the  famous  Santuario  de  Ocotlan,  built  on  a hill  overlooking 
Tlaxcala. 

This  church  is  built  to  commemorate  the  miraculous  appearance  of  the 
blessed  Virgin  of  Ocotlan  to  the  Indian  Juan  Diego,  the  legend  being  almost 
the  same  as  that  connected  with  the  yet  more  famous  shrine  of  Guadaluoe, 
near  Mexico  City.  The  church  is  a very  fine  building,  with  two  very  lofty 
towers.  The  interior  is  splendidly  decorated,  the  high  altar  especially  being 
a perfect  marvel  of  wood  carving. 

Before  arriving  at  the  church  you  will  probably  notice  the  two  curious 
barrel-shaped  structures,  about  ten  feet  high,  in  the  middle  of  the  road. 
These  are  called  “cuitacomatis”  and  are  used  for  storing  corn,  preserved  safely 


257 

from  rats  and  mice.  It  speaks  well  for  the  honesty  of  the  little  village  that 
the  owners  do  not  seem  to  fear  any  pilfering  by  their  neighbors,  for  the 
“cuitacomatis”  are  built  in  the  roadway,  opposite  the  homes  of  their  owners, 
and  are  only  protected  at  the  top  by  a wooden  cover,  well  thatched  to  pre- 
vent the  rain  entering. 

The  view  from  the  churchyard  of  Ocotlan  is  most  beautiful.  From  it 
can  be  seen  the  three  mountains,  Popocatepetl,  Ixtaccihuatl  and  Malintzi.  Im- 
mediately below  is  the  town  of  Tlaxcala,  and  a little  beyond  is  the  river, 
which  can  be  seen  for  miles,  winding  its  way  down  the  valley  of  Atoyac. 
Across  the  river,  which  is  spanned  by  a light  iron  bridge  of  modern  make, 
a little  way  from  the  main  channel,  the  river  has  cut  its  way  through  the  rocks, 
forming  a deep  canon,  and  in  one  place  it  has  forced  its  path  underneath 
the  rocks,  leaving  them  overhanging,  and  forming  a Natural  Bridge. 

Tlaxcala  is  near  the  station  of  Santa  Ana,  on  the  branch  line  of  the  Mexican 
Railway  from  Apizaco  to  Puebla.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Tlaxcala. 
The  population  is  4,000;  its  altitude  is  higher  than  the  City  of  Mexico — 7,506 
feet  above  the  sea. 

Toluca.  To  go  over  the  hills  to  Toluca  is  one  of  the  things  to  do  in 

To-loo'-ca  Mexico.  No  matter  by  what  route  one  may  have  arrived  at 
the  capital,  one  must  go  to  Toluca.  The  going  there  is  the  chief  charm 
of  the  three-hour  excursion.  If  you  take  an  afternoon  train  from  the  city, 
you  will  have  the  sun  behind  the  Sierra  Madres;  while  the  train  climbs  the 
eastern  slope,  creeping  along  in  the  darkening  shadows,  there  is  still  a flood 
of  sunlight  over  the  plain,  glistening  on  the  towers  of  the  distant  city  and  the 
lakes  beyond,  and,  above  all,  whitening  still  more  the  snows  on  Popocatepetl 
and  Ixtaccihuatl — a picture  dazzling  and  grandly,  sublimely  beautiful.  It 
may  be  that  the  sun  has  dropped  behind  the  further  western  hills  ere  you 
turn  the  crest  of  these,  and  there  is  a softening  twilight  over  the  Toluca  Val- 
ley; but  when  the  return  is  made  on  a morning  train,  the  sun  is  again  be- 
hind the  Madres,  this  time  in  the  east,  making  another  panorama  equally 
beautiful,  with  Ocoyacac  under  the  precipice,  a thousand  feet  down,  and  the 
River  Lerma,  stringing  a silver  line  way  across  the  plain,  and  lost  from 
sight  beyond  the  hills.  On  the  farther  side  is  Toluca,  and,  beyond  the  city, 
the  Nevada  de  Toluca,  the  volcano,  once  called  Xinantecatl.  Thus,  in  a little 
journey  of  three  hours,  are  two  of  the  world’s  grandest  views,  worth  a longer 
journey  to  see. 

Horse  cars  from  the  station  run  through  the  Calle  Independencia,  past  the 
statue  of  Hidalgo,  to  the  plaza  and  near  the  hotels. 

That  Toluca  is  a marvelously  clean  city  is  discovered  in  the  shortest  stay; 
the  houses  look  bright  and  new,  although  it  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the 
country,  and  the  buildings  are  larger  and  finer  than  usual.  The  State  build- 
ings— this  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico — erected  on  the  spot  where 
once  stood  the  house  of  Don  Martin  Cortez,  son  of  the  conqueror,  are  the 
finest  in  the  Republic,  and  the  market,  with  its  pillars  of  Pompeiian  colors, 
is  a thing  of  beauty.  It  is  not  far  to  the  hot  country,  and  all  the  tropical 
fruits  and  flowers  are  to  be  found.  In  the  portales  one  may  find  laces,  '‘drawn 
work,”  pottery  and  a thousand  things  for  souvenir  purchasers. 

The  residence  of  a rich  haciendado  is  shown,  who,  in  his  time,  was  a 
great  patron  of  the  bull-ring,  and  furnished  from  his  hacienda  many  a bravo 
ioro,  till  they  became  famous  in  every  ring,  and  his  colors,  dangling  from  a 
grizzly  neck,  brought  loud  huzzas  when  the  animal  bounded  into  the  arena. 
One  bull  fought  his  way  back  to  life  and  liberty.  The  picadors  could  not 
hold  him  off,  and  he  killed  their  horses;  the  banderilleros,  if  they  could  place 
their  darts  in  his  shoulders,  had  them  shaken  out  in  his  rage,  and  the  mata- 


258 


dores  were  hissed  and  hissed,  because  they  could  not  kill  him.  The  old  ha- 
ciendado  looked  on  with  delight,  and  plead  with  the  president  not  to  allow 
him  to  be  lassoed  and  “assassinated,”  as  he  said.  The  wish  was  granted, 
and  the  bull  was  driven  back  to  the  toril,  and  returned  to  the  hacienda  to 
live  some  happy  years,  and  when,  at  a green  old  age,  he  died  in  peace,  sur- 
rounded by  a numerous  and  belligerent  progeny,  his  body  was  interred  minus 
the  skin,  which  was  stuffed  and  hung  up  lor  ornament  in  his  master’s  ban- 
quet hall.  The  view 
from  the  hill,  just 
back  of  the  city, 
is  a pretty  one,  but 
from  the  top  of 
the  volcano  it  is  a 
grand  one,  reach- 
ing from  the  Gulf 
to  the  Pacific. 

The  height,  as  es- 
timated by  Hum- 
boldt, is  15,156  feet 
above  sea  level. 

The  ascent  and 
return  requires 
two  days,  though 
it  is  not  a diffi- 
cult or  perilous 
one.  The  top  is 
not  more  than  ten 
feet  wide,  and  the 
crater  contains  a 
fathomless  lake 
with  a whirlpool 
in  the  center.  The 
valley  and  site  of 
the  city  of  Toluca 
was  within  the 
grant  of  Charles 
V.to  Cortez  as  the 
Marquis  of  the 
Valley,  and  a set- 
tlement was  made 
here  in  1530,  but 
not  till  1677  was 
Toluca  made  a 
city.  The  Church 
of  San  Francisco 
was  founded  in 
1585.  An  old  pas- 
sageway leading  from  a side  street  has  an  inscription  telling  that  this  arch  is 
retained  as  a part  of  the  first  Catholic  church  in  Toluca. 

The  parish  church  was  built  in  1585.  The  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  del 
Carmen  contains  a fine  picture  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  dead  Christ  and  what 
is  probably  the  first  organ  made  in  America.  Near  the  city,  about  two  miles 
west,  is  the  Church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Tecajic,  containing  a miraculous 
image  of  the  Virgin,  on  coarse  cloth,  painted  more  than  two  hundred  years 


ALAMEDA  OF  TOLUCA. 


259 


ago,  and  held  in  much  veneration  by  the  Indians.  Toluca  is  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Mexico,  on  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  forty-five  miles  from  the 
City;  elevation,  8,617  feet  above  the  sea;  population,  25,000. 

Torreoti.  Is  the  very  newest  city  in  Mexico,  twenty  years  ago  only  a pros- 
Tor-re-own'  pective  railroad  crossing,  now  a thriving  city,  the  junction  of  two 
important  systems,  the  Mexican  Central  and  International,  with  electric  cars, 
cotton  mills,  foundries,  factories,  breweries,  ice  plant,  but  no  domed  churches 
and  no  legends.  Population  15,000.  Altitude  3,739.  Distance  from  the  City  of 
Mexico  705  miles. 

Tula.  It  is  but  two  hours  from  the  capital  of  modern  Mexico  to  the 
Too'-la  center  of  the  Toltec  Empire,  where  the  ruins  of  the  oldest  capi- 
tal of  the  continent  lie  half  buried  in  the  sands,  blown  over  them  in  the  1,200 
years  since  their  building — but  two  hours  from  ihe  great  houses  of  the  nine- 
teenth century  to  the  casas  grandes  of  the  seventh.  Tula  was  the  capital  of 
the  Toltecs,  founded  about  the  year  638.  After  the  migration  of  this  people  from 
the  north,  they  halted  just  beyond  the  plain  of  Mexico,  and,  on  the  banks 
of  the  little  river,  builded  a great  city,  that  became  the  rival  of  Tenochtitlan 
and  Texcoco.  The  place  was  a “place  of  reeds,”  and  they  called  the  city 
Tula,  which  is  also  Tollan,  and  was  known  by  oth  r names,  Tlapallan  and 
Huehuetlalpallan,  to  the  ancient  dwellers  in  the  land.  In  these  degen- 
erate days,  the  mighty  capital  is  a little  railway  junction  village,  a most  pretty 
one  withal,  with  antiquities  a thousand  years  younger  than  the  casas  grandes, 
but  are  older  than  our  oldest  walls.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  temples  of  the 
Toltecs  are  called  the  casas  grandes.  They  are  on  the  Cerro  de  Tesoro,  a 
hill  just  beyond  the  river,  reached  by  a walk  of  a mile,  through  a broad  way 
shaded  by  great  trees,  over  an  old  stone  bridge,  of  Spanish  make,  and  back, 
on  the  other  bank  of  the  river,  to  a point  just  opposite  the  town.  There, 
almost  buried  and  without  walls,  are  the  casas  grandes.  The  rooms  are  laid 
in  terraces,  one  above  the  other,  in  hewn  stone  and  hard  cement,  and  con- 
nected with  stairways.  Some  ruined  walls,  of  the  style  of  those  around  the 
church  in  the  village,  evidently  of  Spanish  make,  are  near  the  ruins. 

In  the  plaza  of  Tula  are  some  of  the  Toltecan  relics,  and  the  baptismal 
font  in  the  church  is  of  the  same  origin ; many  of  the  houses  of  the  town  have 
Toltec  carvings  hung  up  for  ornament. 

The  Church  at  San  Jose,  in  partial  ruins,  was  founded  in  1553,  and  com- 
pleted in  1561.  In  the  primitive  days  of  its  building,  it  was  church  and  fort- 
ress combined,  and  the  very  thick  walls  were  constructed  with  that  view,  as 
are  shown  by  the  battlements  on  the  roof,  on  the  walls,  and  on  the  walls  of 
the  old  church  near  the  casas  grandes.  The  church  is  190  feet  long,  83  feet 
high,  with  a tower  of  125  feet,  all  built  of  stone,  roughly  cut.  The  convent, 
built  in  1585,  is  now  used  as  a cavalry  barrack  and  stables. 

The  pretty  little  town  of  Tula — and  it  is  a very  delightful  one — can  be  made 
the  object  of  a day’s  outing  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  taking  the  morning 
train  out,  and  returning  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  on  the  line  of  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway,  in  the  State  of  Hidalgo,  at  the  junction  of  the  Pachuca  branch, 
fifty  miles  from  the  City,  at  an  altitude  of  6,658  feet  above  the  sea. 

Uruapaii.  The  present  terminus  of  the  Pacific  division  of  the  National 

Oo-ru-ap'-an  Railroad  of  Mexico  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
quaintest  of  the  semi-tropics,  surrounded  by  forests  and  encircled  by  rushing 
mountain  strearns.  Uruapan  is  unique,  entirely  dififerent  from  her  sister  cities. 
The  red-tiled,  high-pitched  roofs  lend  color  to  the  picture  and  projecting  eaves 
drop  a grateful  shade  over  the  narrow  sidewalks  of  the  cobble-paved  streets 
that  end  in  primeval  forests  where  the  Falls  of  Tzararacua  are. 


260 


The  ride  over  tlie  western  division  of  the  National  is  through  the  lake  region 
and  is  particularly  picturesque  between  Morelia,  Patzeuaro  and  Ureapan — “the 
loops”  near  the  latter  city  show  some  wonderful  feats  of  engineering — in  an  air 
line  distance  of  2,673  feet;  the  fall  is  426  feet,  requiring  curvatures  of  track 
covering  nearly  three  miles. 

1'he  coffee  of  Uruapan  is  pronounced  the  best  in  the  world  and  the  fruits  are 
of  the  finest  flavor  of  any  in  Mexico.  The  climate  is  superb  and  healthfulness 
attends  upon  pure  air  and  fine  water. 

While  far  remote  from  the  scene  of  conflict  Uruapan  did  not  escape  all  the 
horrors  of  war — two  patriots  were,  by  order  of  Maximilian,  executed  in  the 


IN  VERA  CRUZ. 

plaza,  now  called  in  their  honor  La  Plaza  de  las  Inmortales,  where  has  been 
erected  a memorial,  in  a marble  monument  with  bronze  busts  of  the  heroes. 

The  industrial  interests  are  in  coffee,  fruits,  mills,  factories  and  lumber;  lum- 
ber is  cheaper  than  stone  or  adobe,  so  that  many  of  the  houses  and  portales 
are  of  wood.  Uruapan  is  miles  from  the  Capital.  Population  9,859-  Altitude 

Cruz.  Since  the  landing  of  Grijalva,  in  1518,  Vera  Cruz  has  been 
Ver-a  Crooz'  the  chief  seaport  of  Mexico.  Here,  also,  landed  Cortez, 
April  21,  1519,  on  Good  Friday.  For  this,  and  the  reputed  richness  of  the 
land  in  gold,  the  place  was  named  Villa  Rica  de  la  Santa  Vera  Cruz  (the 


261 


rich  city  of  the  holy  true  cross).  There  was  no  harbor  for  the  safe  riding 
of  the  vessels  left  behind,  and  after  the  conqueror  had  established  himself  in 
the  interior,  he  sent  an  expedition  down  the  coast  and  found  the  harbor  of 
Coatzacoalcos,  the  present  terminus  of  the  Tehuantepec  Route,  on  the  Gulf. 
But  this  did  not  affect  the  importance  of  Vera  Cruz.  It  was  so  much  nearer 
the  richer  districts  of  the  interior,  that  the  city  has  remained  the  seaport  of 
Mexico  for  nearly  four  hundred  years.  Before  the  completion  of  the  jetties 
or  breakwater  ships  dropped  anchor  just  below  the  island  of  San  Juan  de 
Ulua,  and  the  landing  was  made  by  lighter  and  small  boats,  which  was  not 
included  in  the  ship’s  fare.  The  prices  of  the  landing  varied  with  the  weather, 
from  fifty  cents  in  fair  weather,  to  a dollar  on  stormy  days.  Now,  with  the 
new  sea  wall,  ships  are  protected  from  the  winds  and  seas  and  may  discharge 
and  receive  cargoes  direct  from  the  pier. 

Vera  Cruz  may  be  done  in  a day.  A walk  about  the  streets  and  plazas,  and 
along  the  Paseo,  with  its  tall,  waving  palm  trees,  is  all  to  interest;  and  to 
the  church  of  the  black  Christ,  where  the  image  of  the  Savior  is  black;  there 
is  only  one  other  like  it,  at  Havana,  or  near  that  city.  There  is  another  thino- 
that  will  attract  the  attention  of  the  tourist  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  that  is  the  Street 
Cleaning  Department.  The  employes  work  without  salary,  and  find  them- 
selves, and  their  thorough  manner  (but  not  their  methods)  are  to  be  com- 
mended. Their  only  reward  is  the  enforcement  of  a city  ordinance  which 
inflicts  a five-dollar  fine  on  the  indiscreet  and  reckless  citizen  who  should 
happen  to  kill  one  of  them.  The  natives  call  these  street  cleaners  zopilotes, 
but  to  the  American  they  are  just  plain,  everyday  buzzards.  I may  mention 
here  that  Vera  Cruz  has  an  imitator,  in  this  respect,  in  Charleston,  S.  C.  But, 
altogether,  Vera  Cruz  is  to  be  visited  to  make  the  tour  of  Mexico  complete. 
The  island  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  a prison  now,  once  a fort,  was  commenced 
in  1582  and  finished  about  1750  It  has  been  occupied  at  different  times — 
by  the  French,  in  1838;  by  the  Americans,  in  1847;  by  the  allied  French, 
English  and  Spanish,  in  1865;  and  was  the  seat  of  the  Juarez  Government 
during  the  War  of  the  Reform.  Excursions  to  Ulua  and  to  La  Isla  de  los 
Sacrificios,  may  be  made.  The  hiring  of  boats  for  landing  and  for  excursions 
should  be  made  by  contract  always.  A tramway  runs  down  the  coast  to 
Medellin  and  Alvarado,  that  may  be  taken  just  for  the  ride  and  the  novelty  of  it. 

The  parish  church,  on  the  Plaza  Mayor,  was  finished  in  1734,  and  dedi- 
cated to  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la  Asuncion.  The  Church  of  San  Francisco  was 
founded  in  1568.  The  tower  is  now  a lighthouse,  and  the  old  convent  con- 
tains the  public  library.  The  church  was  formerly  supported  by  a levy  on  all 
ships  coming  into  the  port.  The  Churches  of  San  Agustin  and  La  Campania 
were  restored  after  the  great  fire  of  1619. 

On  the  island  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua  is  a little  chapel,  dedicated  to  Nuestra 
Senora  de  la  Escalera,  in  which  offerings  are  made  for  the  safety  of  sailors. 

Vera  Cruz  is  reached  from  the  interior  by  the  Mexican  and  Interoceanic 
Railways.  It  is  263  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  in  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz. 

Yautepec.  These  little  towns,  down  on  the  border  of  the  tierra  caliente, 

Ya-ow'-te-pec'  seem  farther  away  from  the  world,  as  we  know  it,  and  farther 
behind  in  the  centuries,  than  the  towns  of  the  hills,  and  when  you  are  in 
Yautepec  you  are  in  another  world  and  another  century.  The  little  town  is 
nestled  down  in  a valley  that  widens  out,  to  the  southward  and  west,  into  broad 
plains,  where  the  sugar  cane  grows;  to  the  northward,  the  hills  rise,  one  above 
the  other,  and  reach  to  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl.  The  cane  fields  come 
even  to  the  city  limits,  and  within  them  the  narrow  streets  crook  and  turn 
curiously.  The  dull  gray  walls  seem  cheerless  enough,  but  here  and  there  a 
half-open  gateway  reveab  the  tropical  gard^n^s  on  their  other  §ide,  and  some 


262 


of  the  taller  trees  hang  their  golden  fruit  over  their  tops.  You  leave  the 
station  and  the  locomotive  that  is  there,  the  only  evidence  that  there  is  any 
other  world  but  this  lazy  one  you  are  just  entering,  as,  in  the  novelty  of  it,  you 
really  forget  the  other,  till  the  locomotive’s  whistle  calls  you  back.  A cross- 
topped  tower,  high  over  the  low  houses,  will  be  a guide.  Follow  the  streets  that 
lead  to  it,  and  soon  come  to  the  plaza,  which  is  also  the  alameda — a pretty 
little  park  with  bright  flowers  and  pretty  trees,  with  a fountain  under  them, 
where  the  natives  come,  with  great  earthen  jars,  for  the  pure  sparkling  water 
that  flows  from  it.  Sit  here  on  a stone  bench;  the  inhabitants  will  come  out 
and  look  at  you.  In  the  evening  the  band  plays,  and  you  will  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  see  the  “four  hundred”  as  they  promenade.  There  is  wealth  and 
beauty  in  the  procession,  such  as  it  is  not  expected  to  see.  At  one  end  of  the 
little  park  is  a long  table,  covered  with  corn.  “Ah,  this  is  the  market  place,” 
some  one  says,  “a  sort  of  produce  exchange,  and  these  are  the  samples  of 
corn.”  When  you  return  after  supper  you  find  that  he  had  mistaken  the  class 
of  traffic.  A crowd  of  men,  women  and  children  are  around  the  table.  Each 
has  a dingy-looking  card  on  the  table;  the  card  has  three  rows  of  five  pictures 
each.  A man  at  the  end  of  the  table  holds  a bag,  from  which  he  draws  smaller 
cards,  that  have  corresponding  pictures  to  those  held  by  the  players;  he  calls 

the  names  of  the 
animals  in  the 
pictures,  and  the 
person  having  a 
similar  one  places 
a grain  of  corn 
on  it,  and  anyone 
getting  five 
markers  in  a row 
wins  the  game 
and  the  money 
paid  for  all  the 
cards,  less  the 
percentage  of  the 

banker.  It  is  much  like  a certain  American  game,  here  one  man  yells  “Com- 
pleto !”  and  all  the  others  “el  diablo.”  Just  on  the  other  side  of  the 
plaza  a rambling  stream  runs  over  a rocky  bed,  almost  dry  now,  but  the  waters, 
collected  in  pools,  form  a laundry  place  for  Yautepec,  presenting  a picturesque 
scene.  An  old  stone  bridge,  with  a single  arch,  spans  the  stream  for  a path 
that  leads  to  a convent,  or  priestly  residence,  whose  gardens  can  be  seen  from 
the  bridge  in  all  their  tropical  luxuriance.  In  the  graveyard  are  some  crum- 
bling old  tombs  built  in  the  walls  of  the  church  or  in  the  adjoining  panteon. 
At  the  north  end  of  the  village  is  a pretty  little  chapel,  and  near  it  the  Plaza 
de  Toros. 

Yautepec  is  on  the  Morelos  division  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway,  in  the 
State  of  Morelos,  ninety-eight  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Zacatecas.  The  approach  to  Zacatecas  from  the  north  gives  no  hint  of 
Zack-ah-tay'-cas  any  city  being  near.  The  train  climbs  the  tortuous  windings 
of  the  track  to  reach  the  summit  of  a hill  that  is  8,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  A tall  tower-like  chimney  of  a smelter  that  is  seen,  first  on  one  side 
and  then  on  the  other,  is  the  only  evidence  of  civilization  beyond  the  cars  we 
ride  in,  and  even  at  the  station  where  the  train  stops  there  is  little  to  indicate 
the  existence  of  the  great  city  that  is  in  the  barranca  just  beyond  the  hill,  and 
under  the  one  whose  rocky  crest  is  called  La  Bufa.  It  is  after  leaving  the 
station,  or  on  the  approach  from  the  south,  that  the  passing  passenger  is 


263 


treated  to  one  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world,  if  his  seat  be  on  the  east  side 
of  the  car.  Away  up  the  immense  gulch,  the  fiat-top  houses,  the  domes  and 
towers,  seem  to  have  slidden  down  from  both  the  hills,  till  it  is  filled  half 
way  up,  on  either  side,  and  straggling  out  the  mouth  of  it,  down  on  to  the 
plain  where  Guadalupe  is.  And  the  road  between  Zacatecas  and  Guadalupe! 
where  is  there  any  like  it?  or  these  two  cities — are  there  any,  except  in  the 
Holy  Land?  And  the  passers  up  and  down  that  road,  and  the  streets  of  the 
city,  in  the  enchantment  that  distance  lends  them!  do  they  not  bring  back 
the  bible  lessons  of  your  younger  days?  There  are,  also,  the  veritable  Pales- 
tinian asses  laden  for  the  city,  or  returning  lazily  over  a road  that  seems  as 


ZACATECAS. 

hard  as  that  which  leads  to  Jordan,  and  far  beyond  Guadalupe’s  towers  is — 
not  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  but  Lake  Pevernaldillo.  And  up  the  hill,  toward 
the  Bufa,  is  a rocky  road,  narrow  as  that  which  leads  to  righteousness,  hedged 
with  prickly  thorns,  that  leads  to  the  little  Church  of  Los  Remedios,  founded 
in  1728,  near  the  summit.  Over  this  road,  suffering  devotees  have  crawled 
to  do  a penance.  On  the  hill  of  La  Bufa  a battle  was  fought  between  the 
Juarez  forces  and  a revolutionary  party.  May  2,  1871,  resulting  in  a victory 
for  Juarez. 

The  inevitable  horse  car  dispels  the  Palestinic  idea  and  it  will  amply 
repay  you  to  leave  the  train  and  take  a seat  in  one  that  will  take  you  from 


264 


the  station  to  the  market  plaza  and  to  the  hotels  of  Zacatecas.  The  city  is  easy 
of  access — one  just  drops  into  town.  The  horse  cars  leave  the  station,  and, 
per  force  of  gravity,  roll  into  the  city,  as  they  do  into  the  suburb  of  Guada- 
lupe. The  mules  work  only  half  the  time,  but  it  is  an  up-hill  business  when 
they  do  work.  The  cars  roll  from  the  station  to  Zacatecas,  or  from  the  city 

tc  Guadalupe,  but 
vice  versa,  they  must 
be  pulled  up  by  main 
force.  The  coming 
up  is  as  hard  as  the 
going  down  is  easy. 
The  mules  walk 
leisurely  down  the 
hill  to  Guadalupe, 
without  even  the  la- 
bor of  carrying  the 
harness,  which  is 
piled  on  the  front 
platform.  The  city  is 
an  interesting  one, 
where  some  days  may 
be  passed  in  rambles 
up  one  hill  and  down 
the  other.  As  you 
saw  the  city  from  the 
train,  you  could  not 
believe  there  was 
room  enough,  and 
level  enough  for  a 
park,  but  Zacatecas 
has  two  that  are  filled 
with  flowers  and 
fountains,  and  where, 
of  course,  the  band 
plays  in  the  evening, 
Sundays  and  feast 
days;  in  little  nooks 
and  shelves  in  the 
rocks  are  numberless 
p 1 a z uelas  — beauty 
spots  of  ferns  and 
flowers  in  rocky  hill- 
sides. Zacatecas  is  a 
busy  city,  and  the 
streets  present  quite 
a metropolitan  ap- 
pearance, some  of  the 
FACADE  OF  CATHEDRAL,  ZACATECAS,  buildings  reaching 

three  and  four  stories.  The  State  and  Municipal  palaces  are  impos- 
ing above  the  average  in  Mexico.  The  churches  to  visit  are  Nuestra 
Senora  de  la  Asuncion,  with  its  richly  carved  fa^rade  of  brown  stone,  carry- 
ing life-size  statues  of  Christ  and  the  apostles,  tiled  dome  and  interior  of  white 
and  gold;  it  once  owned  a font  of  silver  that  alone  cost  a fortune  and  was  con- 
fiscated by  the  government.  The  church  was  founded  in  1612,  and  is  now,  since 


266 


1864,  the  cathedral.  La  Campania  is  the  church  of  the  Jesuits,  begun  in  1746, 
and  contains  some  very  hue  pictures.  The  others  are  San  Francisco,  1567,  and 
San  Juan  de  Dios.  It  is  probable  that  the  oldest  Presbyterian  church  building  in 
the  world  is  at  Zacatecas;  it  was  once  the  Church  of  San  Agustin,  founded 
in  1576,  now  devoted  to  Protestant  uses,  though  a portion  of  the  old  convent 
is  used  as  a hotel. 

But  it  is  to  Guadalupe  that  the  church  enthusiast  takes  his  way,  very  early 
after  his  arrival  at  Zacatecas.  It  is  four  miles  to  Guadalupe.  The  cars  have 
been  drawn  by  the  mules  up  the  hill  to  the  Plaza  Villa  Real,  from  whence  they 
roll  back  to  the  market  plaza 
just  beyond  it  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  churches  in 
this  country  of  churches.  In 
front  of  the  church  is  a pretty 
park  of  roses,  well  kept.  The 
grand  old  church,  with  its 
tiled  dome,  is  worthy  of  all  the 
journey  to  see.  The  main  altar 
has  life-size  figures  represent- 
ing the  Crucifixion.  Behind 
there  is  a canvas  painting  rep- 
resenting the  Hill  of  Calvary, 
with  the  Jews  and  Roman 
soldiery  in  the  middle  back- 
ground. These,  with  the  fig- 
ures in  front,  produce  a very 
startling  effect.  The  church  is 
always  crowded  with  people, 
kneeling  at  the  various  altars 
and  confessionals.  On  the 
right  of  the  church  is  the  old 
convent,  filled  with  hundreds 
of  curious  paintings,  illustrat- 
ing the  lives  and  temptations 
of  the  saints — some  of  them 
going  very  much  into  detail. 

One  fine  picture,  a gigantic 
San  Cristobal,  at  the  head  of 
the  staircase,  is  finely  executed 
and  the  work  of  a master  hand, 
painted  by  Juarez  in  1722.  The 
old  church  and  convent  was 

founded  in  1707  by  Fray  An-  high  altar,  cathedral  of  zacatecas. 

tonio  Margil  de  Jesus;  the  principal  pictures  were  painted  in  1720  by  Antonio 
de  Torres;  there  is  a fine  San  Jose  by  Ibarra. 

The  Capilla  de  la  Purisima,  a splendid  chapel,  is  a more  recent  addition  to 
the  old  church;  it  was  the  gift  of  a maiden  lady  of  great  wealth,  a few  years 
ago,  and  cost  many  thousands  of  dollars.  The  floor  is  inlaid  with  hard  woods 
of  different  colors.  A superb  altar  is  rich  in  gildings,  silver  and  gold,  wax 
figures,  silk  and  satin  hangings.  The  altar  rail  is  of  onyx  and  solid  silver. 
The  walls  are  finely  frescoed,  arched  to  a dome  fifty  feet  above  the  floor.  This 
is  all  new,  but  is  the  finest  chapel  in  Mexico. 

Adjoining  the  convent  is  an  orphan  asylum,  founded  by  General  Garcia  de 
la  Cadena  in  1875,  where  the  boys  are  taught  the  arts  and  sciences. 


266 


Silver  was  discovered  in  1546  by  Juan  de  Tolosa,  and  so  rich  were  the 
mines  that  the  place  became  a city  in  1585  by  decree  of  Phillip  IL,  and  from 
1548  to  1810  the  product  of  the  mines  was  nearly  $10,000,000,000;  since  that  time 
the  output  has  not  been  so  great. 

In  1835  the  State  of  Zacatecas  declared  against  the  Dictator  Santa  Ana, 
and  on  the  loth  of  May  of  that  year  Governor  Don  Francisco  Garcia,  with 
5,000  men,  waited  on  the  plains  of  Guadalupe  for  the  coming  of  the  army  under 
Santa  Ana.  A great  battle  was  fought  the  next  morning,  in  which  Garcia 
lost  2,000  killed  and  2,700  prisoners,  while  Santa  Ana’s  loss  was  only  about 
a hundred;  the  victors  entered  the  city,  pillaged  it  and  butchered  many  of  its 
people. 

About  thirty  miles  west  of  Zacatecas  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  a prehistoric 
city;  the  Ruins  of  La  Quemada  consist  of  walls,  pyramids,  fallen  columns, 
mounds  and  pavements,  all  of  massive  proportions ; some  of  the  walls  are 
eight  feet  thick  and  eighteen  in  height,  and  the  columns  nineteen  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, in  a citadel  250x200  feet ; although  nothing  is  known  of  the  or  igin 
of  these  temples,  it  is  said  by  some  writers  that  they  are  the  remains  of  Chi- 
comostoc,  a city  of  the  Aztecs,  built  about  the  twelfth  century,  hence  are 
probably  800  years  old.  The  pyramid,  according  to  Clavijero,  was  probably 
erected  to  Huitzilopochtli  and  supported  a statue  of  that  god  which  the  ancient 
Mexicans  carried  with  them  in  their  travels.  Zacatecas  is  on  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway,  439  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  is  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Zacatecas. 

Zapotlau.  As  usual  in  Mexico,  the  town  of  Zapotlan  is  a mile  or  more 
Zap-ote-Ian  from  the  station. 

The  broad  Plaza  de  Armas  is  a pretty  one ; portales  long  and  arched  on 
three  sides;  on  the  other  to  the  south  the  church  of  San  Jose  and  the  garden 
and  church  of  El  Corazon  Sagrado  de  Jesus.  The  center  of  the  Plaza  is  a 
beautiful  garden  filled  with  flowers  and  tropic  trees ; some  cedars  closely 
cropped  have  grown  so  thick  that  they  would  turn  the  rain  as  effectually  as 
an  umbrella,  which  in  fact  they  closely  resemble,’  the  impression  is  instanta- 
neous. The  pagoda  where  the  band  plays  is  in  the  usual  picturesque  archi- 
tecture of  Mexico,  and  the  seats,  prettily  painted,  are  everywhere  in  the  garden, 
so  the  journey  from  one  to  the  other  is  not  a long  one,  and  the  always  weary  peon 
can  rest  to  his  heart’s  content. 

The  church  of  San  Jose  fronts  the  Plaza.  There  are  two  towers  of  cut  stone, 
as  in  the  handsome  facade.  The  doors  are  in  high  archways,  massive,  and 
bear  heavy  brazen  plates  on  which  are  engraven  the  names  of  the  children 
of  the  city,  whose  contributions  paid  for  their  building.  The  inlaid  floor 
of  the  nave  is  in  squares  of  native  hard  woods,  each  with  a brass  plate  bear- 
ing the  name  of  the  donor  of  each  particular  square,  which,  as  the  Padre 
told  me,  cost  them  from  one  to  twenty  dollars,  as  the  generosity  of  the  donor 
might  be,  or  according  to  his  fortune  in  this  world’s  goods. 

On  each  side  of  the  main  altar  are  two  shrines  of  cut  stone.  The  Gothic 
arches  of  the  vaulted  roof  are  more  than  sixty  feet  from  the  floor,  producing 
a grand  effect.  Between  San  Jose  and  the  church  of  El  Corazon  Sagrado  de 
Jesus  is  a pretty  garden  with  stone  pillared  arbors  over  which  the  vines  have 
so  thickly  grown  that  the  people  may  pass  from  one  chapel  to  the  other  dry 
shod  and  dry  headed  though  it  may  rain  ever  so  hard.  Here,  in  the  evening 
particularly,  the  air  is  heavily  laden  with  the  perfume  of  tropic  flowers.  Rack 
of  the  garden  is  the  chapel  of  Tercer  Orden  and  a school.  In  the  church  of 
El  Corazon  Sagrado  de  Jesus  is  a fine  picture  of  San  Jose  that  a kind  old  lady 
explained  to  me  was  possessed  of  such  miraculous  powers  that  if  I should 


267 


fall  from  the  dome  of  the  church  it  could  bear  me  up  and  I would  not  be 
hurt.  I took  her  word  for  it  and  did  not  try  the  experiment. 

In  1806  the  old  church  was  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake  during  High 
Mass  and  more  than  2,000  people  were  killed.  The  surrounding  houses  were 
not  injured.  In  evidence  there  is  a stone  taken  from  the  adjoining  house  that 
was  demolished  a year  ago  which  showed  that  the  house  was  108  years  old, 
and  hence  could  not  have  been  thrown  down  by  the  earthquake  which  destroyed 
the  church. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  near  the  eastern  hills,  are  a number  of 
shrines  of  chapels  built  for  the  Indians  and  on  land  owned  by  them.  One 
of  them,  the  Capilla  de  la  Platana,  the  Chapel  of  the  Banana  Garden,  has  a 
belfry  on  each  side  of  the  garden  entrance  now  almost  crumbling  to  decay, 
but  still  the  rotten  timbers  hold  the  old  bells  from  falling  down.  At  the 
corner  of  the  chapel  is  a dilapidated  statue  of  San  Cristobal  that  was  origi- 
nally in  front  of  the  church  destroyed  by  the  earthquake.  The  statue  was 
made  in  about  six  sections.  A part  of  the  trunk  of  the  body  is  gone,  and 
also  the  shoulders  and  the  little  child  he  bears,  except  one  hand  of  the  child 
and  part  of  an  arm  of  the  saint.  Despite  the  misfit  caused  by  the  missing 
parts  the  Indians  have  set  up  the  statue  and  it  is  greatly  venerated.  In  front 
of  the  Chapel  of  Todos  Santos  is  a stone  cross  about  eight  feet  high,  cut  in 
one  piece.  This  chapel  is  in  a corn  patch  and  long  ago  abandoned. 

The  Volcano  of  Colima  and  the  Nevada  de  Colima,  about  twelve  to  fifteen 
miles  distant,  are  in  fine  view  from  the  plaza.  They  are  in  reality  one 
mountain,  but  of  two  peaks  and  with  two  craters.  The  former  is  the  only 
active  volcano  in  Mexico ; volumes  of  smoke  constantly  pouring  forth,  and 
at  night  there  is  frequently  a grand  display  of  fire  and  molten  lava.  In  i8i8 
there  was  a violent  eruption,  covering  the  mountain  sides  with  flowing  lava. 
Here  in  Zapotlan  the  streets  were  knee-deep  in  ashes  and  a strong  wind  blowing 
north  carried  the  ashes  so  far  that  they  fell  in  Zacatecas,  200  miles  away.  The 
eruptions  of  fire  and  lava  are  irregular,  and  may  occur  any  day. 

Zapotlan  is  on  the  Pacific  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  102  miles 
from  Guadalajara.  Population  17,596.  Altitude  5,130. 


CHAPALA. 


268 


BOCA  DEL  ABRA,  MEXICAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 


Railway  Rides  in  riexico. 


“Call  it  travel, 
that  thou  take«t  for  pleasure. 

— Shakespeare. 


South  over  the  Ceutral. — Whenever 
there  is  a schedule  that  puts  the  train  over  the 
first  two  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Rio 
Grande  by  night,  take  it;  no  matter  which 
route  you  travel  by,  there  is  nothing  to  see 
but  chaparral  and  desolate  looking  hills,  and 
first  impressions  would  not  be  of  the  best  if 
you  traveled  by  day-train.  There  is  just 
enough  novelty  in  the  little  towns  on  the  bor- 
der, that  are  so  oddly  new  and  so  old  fash- 
ioned, to  awaken  an  anticipation  for 
more;  it  is  all  the  better  to  sleep 
over  it  and  dream  of  what  may  be 
to-morrow.  I can  safely  say  that  these 
dreams,  at  least,  will  not  go  by  con- 
traries. When  the  first  morning  in 
Mexico  comes,  with  a brighter  sun- 
shine than  you  ever  saw  before,  you  will  be  an  early  riser;  perhaps  you 
will  roll  up  the  little  curtain  of  your  window,  before  you  leave  your  pillow, 
and  hurry  out  for  a hasty  toilet,  fearing  that  you  may  miss  something 
— and  you  might,  for  the  scenery  begins  very  early  in  the  morning,  and 
this  old,  old  country  is  all  new  to  you.  The  train  is  rolling  along  through 
a narrow  valley,  level  as  a billiard  board,  the  veritable  high  table-lands 
we  have  read  about,  but  never  seen  till  now,  lying  between  two  close  ranges 
of  mountains,  shrub-covered  and  crowned  with  the  most  entrancing  cloud 
effects  one  imagines  out  of  fairy  land;  the  soft,  white  heaps  are  tossed  above 
some  towering  summit  or  rolled  into  a blue  valley  between. 

While  we  are  looking  skyward  there  is  an  entrancing  view  at  our  feet; 
here  is  a first  glimpse  of  an  hacienda.  At  the  farther  end  of  the  plain  a 
group  of  white  buildings,  a wide  corral,  fenced  in  with  slight  boughs,  and  a 
fringe  of  most  exquisite  green,  along  the  margin  of  a fine  line  of  clear  water, 
completes  a pretty  picture.  Out  of  the  corral,  on  one  side,  comes  an  immense 
herd  of  cattle,  at  the  other  an  equally  immense  herd  of  goats,  black,  brown 
and  white.  A group  of  Indian  women  are  filling  great  red  jars  at  a pool 
of  water,  and  across  the  dry  water-courses  flocks  of  sheep  wander,  followed 
by  their  shepherds.  It  is  truly  another  world  than  that  of  yesterday. 

By  and  by,  between  a gap  in  the  deep  red  mountains,  which  wall  up  the 
narrow  valley,  there  is  a wonderful  vista  full  of  color,  with  another  glint 

269 


270 

of  another  valley,  and,  far  off,  the  mystical  heights  of  some  ne\/  range  of 
hills  which  distance  clothes  with  abundant  majesty.  The  novelty  never  wears 
away.  But  this  country  is  not  all  of  deep  valleys  and  lofty  mountains;  there 
are  broad,  spreading  plains  as  well,  yet,  in  all  the  land,  in  its  length  and 
breadth,  the  mountains  are  always  in  view. 

The  railroads  seem  to  come  upon  these  Mexican  towns  unawares,  and  there 
is  rarely  a hint  of  them  till  we  are  at  the  station,  and  they  are,  with  few 
exceptions,  located  a mile  or  more  from  the  line  of  road.  The  first  stop  is 
at  Chihuahua,  made  at  the  shops  where  the  restaurant  is  located,  and,  until 
the  train  starts  across  the  barranca  there  is  nothing  to  be  seen  of  the  city, 
then  the  view  is  from  the  windows  on  the  west  side  of  the  car.  It  is  a good 

view  of  the  city,  with  the  tall 
towers  of  the  Church  of  San 
Francisco  standing  high  against 
the  sky.  While  the  train  stops 
at  the  station  just  after  crossing 
the  bridge  there  is  time  to  en- 
joy it.  After  leaving  the  sta- 
tion the  better  view  is  on  the 
left,  where  the  road  to  the 
mines  of  Santa  Eulalia  runs 
through  the  hills,  and  pretty 
soon  the  buildings  and  tall 
chimneys  come  to  view,  and  just 
after  leaving  the  station  is  the 
Cerro  del  Coronel  on  the  right 
of  the  track.  The  road  runs 
through  a semi-lake  region, 
passing  through  the  valley  of 
the  Conchos  and  San  Pedro. 
Near  Santa  Rosalia  there  are 
some  hot  springs,  famous  for 
their  curative  qualities.  Jimenez 
is  a city  of  some  10,000  people, 
the  shipping  point  for  the  Par- 
ral  mining  district.  A branch 
road  runs  from  Jimenez  to  Par- 
ral  and  Allende.  Escalon  is  the 
junction  point  of  the  Mexican 
Northern  Railway,  running 
northeastward  to  the  Sierre  Mojada  mining  district,  \/here  is  located  one  of  the 
greatest  carbonate  camps  in  the  world.  Southward  now,  the  roads  runs  along 
the  western  border  of  the  great  Bolson  de  Mapirrh,  to  interpret,  literally,  a 
“pocket”  in  the  mountains.  This  is  the  Laguna  country,  in  the  rainy  season  al- 
most covered  by  water,  and  in  the  dry  season  it  collects  in  ponds  or  larger 
lakes.  Several  rivers,  notably  the  Nazas,  flow  into  this  Bolson,  and  unless  there 
is  an  underground  outlet  somewhere,  the  water  must  escape  only  by  evapora- 
tion, but  so  much  is  used  in  irrigation  that  only  a small  stream  reaches  the 
basin. 

East  of  the  line  about  Conejos  is  a curious  sulphur  mountain,  easily  dis- 
tinguished by  the  stripes  of  the  mineral.  At  Conejos  is  the  junction  of  the 
Durango  Central  Railway.  At  Bermejillo  connection  for  Mapimi  Railroad  and 
Mexican  International.  At  Gomez  Palacio  take  electric  cars  for  Lerdo.  Here  is 
the  rich  cotton  district  of  Lerdo,  where  the  seed  requires  only  to  be  planted  once 


ALTAR  AT  GUADALUPE,  NEAR  ZACATECAS. 


271 


in  three  or  four  years.  Lerdo  is  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  right,  and  sootl 
after  leaving  the  station  the  track  crosses  the  Nazas  River  on  a fine  steel  bridge; 
look  up  and  doNvn  the  river  and  see  the  dams  and  storage  reservoirs  for  irriga- 
tion purposes.  From  Gomez  Palacio  a branch  extends  eastward  via  San  Pedro 
to  Monterey,  and  three  miles  south  the  main  line  of  the  Central  crosses  the 
Mexican  International  Railroad,  with  connections  on  the  east  for  Eagle  Pass, 
and  on  the  west  for  Durango  and  for  Saltillo  via  the  Coahuila  and  Pacific  Railway. 

South  from  Torreon  there  is  a continual  up-grade  of  track,  and  the  moun- 
tains are  closer  than  on  the  borders  of  the  Bolson.  Just  below  the  station 
of  Gutierrez  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  is  crossed,  and  the  first  place  of  import- 
ance in  the  Torrid  Zone  is  Fresnillo,  once  a great  city  before  the  overflow 
of  the  mines  of  Proano.  The  city  is  about  five  miles  from  the  road,  and 
has  now  only  about  20,000  people. 


ARCHED  STREET,  ZACATECAS. 

Every  hour  of  the  journey,  now,  is  one  of  increasing  interest;  still,  as 
it  is  onward,  it  is  upward,  and  its  windings  tortuous  among  the  hills,  where 
the  scenery  is  grand,  gloomy  and  peculiar.  The  climb  is  to  reach  the  sum- 
mit of  a hill  whose  altitude  is  greater  than  any  on  the  road,  except  one,  a 
little  over  8,000  feet.  The  tall  tower-like  chimneys  of  a smelter,  high  above 
the  track,  are  seen  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  as  the  road  bends 
in  one  horseshoe  after  another.  This  is  the  approach  to  Zacatecas,  one  of 
the  greatest  mining  cities  of  the  world.  There  is  no  view  of  the  city  in  the 
approach  from  the  north,  nor  even  as  the  train  stands  at  the  station;  but, 
as  it  moves  off,  take  a seat  on  the  left  of  the  car,  or,  what  is  better,  go  to  the 


272 


rear  platform,  for  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  journey.  The  moment  the 
wheels  begin  to  roll,  sharply  down  hill  now,  there  is  a full  view  of  a city 
of  35,000  people,  for  all  the  world  like  one  of  Palestine,  with  its  low,  flat- 
topped  houses  and  domed  churches,  two  hundred  feet  below,  spreading  up 
and  down  the  gulch  and  on  the  mountain  side  beyond,  reaching  down  the  val- 
ley with  a straggling  suburb,  to  Guadalupe,  six  miles  away.  The  track  winds 
around  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  passing  directly  over  some  mines  and  smelt- 
ers, keeping  the  city  in  view  all  the  while.  Up  and  down  the  road  that  runs 
along  the  valley  are  curiously  costumed  people,  droves  of  donkeys  laden  with 
silver,  carts  and  cars,  goats  and  cattle  on  the  hillsides,  and  a hundred  things 
to  see  not  seen  anywhere  else  in  the  world. 

Leaving  Zacatecas  behind,  under  the  shadow  of  the  great  Cerro  de  la 
Bufa,  now  below,  in  the  valley,  is  Guadalupe,  and  far  beyond  is  Lake  Pever- 


BATHS,  AGUAS  CALIENTES. 

naldillo,  whose  waters  seem  to  meet  the  sky  at  the  horizon.  Those  are  not 
monuments  over  the  graves  of  fallen  heroes  that  you  have  seen  through  this 
mining  district;  those  white  tombstone-like  objects  are  landmarks  to  desig- 
nate the  boundaries  of  an  hacienda  or  a mining  claim. 

The  road  enters  a more  agricultural  district  below  Guadalupe,  and  runs 
through  one  valley  after  another  down  to  Aguas  Calientes,  on  the  plain. 
The  city  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  road.  No  general  view  of  the  city  may 
be  had,  as  it  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  track,  and  a forest  of  green  trees 
hides  the  houses.  There  is  plenty  to  be  seen  at  the  station.  The  main  street 
of  the  city  crosses  the  track  just  below  it;  the  bath-houses  are  within  a stone’s 
throw,  and  the  hot-water  ditch,  wherein  is  the  public  laundry  and  baths  of 
the  Indians,  crosses  the  track  just  at  the  end  of  the  platform.  From  Aguas 
Calientes,  or  at  Chicalote,  nine  miles  above,  the  Tampico  division  connects 
with  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican  Central. 

Onward,  over  the  plains  to  the  southward,  it  is  still  down  grade  to  the 


273 


barranca  of  Encarnacion,  which  the  road  crosses  on  a high  iron  bridge.  Just 
under  it,  on  the  left  side,  is  an  irrigation  reservoir.  The  station  is  just  at 
the  south  end  of  the  bridge,  and  a mile  or  two  to  the  westward  is  the  little 
town  of  La  Encarnacion,  with  its  towered  Church  of  Candelaria,  in  view 
from  the  car  windows,  and  the  white  Campo  Santo.  Now  the  track  winds 
about  over  some  rocky  hills,  as  far  as  Las  Salas,  and  then  down  to  the 
plain  again  at  Lagos,  the  city  seen  from  the  west  windows.  The  scenery 
is  not  so  wild  here,  but  is  very  pretty  indeed.  In  the  range  to  the  west  is 
the  immense  El  Gigante,  high  above  all  the  other  mountains. 

Leon  is  another  of  the  great  cities  of  this  fertile  plain,  and  one  of  the 
largest  in  Mexico.  It  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  road;  its  streets  are  hedged 
with  cactus  and  shaded  by  trees.  Nothing  but  the  towers  of  the  churches 
can  be  seen. 

At  Silao  is  the  branch  road  for  Guanajuato.  The  city  of  Silao  is  on  the 
east  side  of  the  road  and  nearer  to  it  than  most  of  the  cities  are.  The  ride 
of  sixteen  miles  to  Guanajuato  is  a very  picturesque  one.  As  the  train  winds 
about  through  the  hills  there  are  glimpses  of  the  great  mining  city,  first  from 
one  side  of  the  cars,  and  then  from  the  other. 

Irapuato  is  the  junction  of  the  Guadalajara  division  and  the  station  for 
strawberries.  They  are  on  sale  on  the  arrival  of  all  trains,  from  June  to 
January,  and  January  to  June.  The  city  is  on  the  west  side,  half  a mile 
from  the  station.  Salamanca  is  the  next  place  of  importance,  and  then  Ce- 
laya,  where  this  road  crosses  the  Mexican  National.  Both  these  cities  are 
to  be  seen  from  the  west  windows.  In  the  latter,  high  above  the  trees,  is 
the  yellow-tiled  dome  of  the  beautiful  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmen,  and 
back  of  the  city  the  plain  slopes  gradually  to  a high  mountain  that  is  seen 
miles  up  and  down  the  road.  This  beautiful  valley  is  what  is  called  the 
Bajio  region  and  it  seems  to  have  grown  in  beauty  and  fertility;  hence  on, 
to  Queretaro,  it  is  one  vast  garden  between  the  low  ranges  of  hills  on  either 
side.  Queretaro  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  track  and  just  north  of  the  city; 
also  on  the  east  side  is  the  hill  where  Maximilian  and  his  generals  were 
executed,  and  south  of  it  the  track  passes  through  a pretty  suburb,  where  you 
may  see  your  first  palm  tree  and  the  first  oranges  and  lemons  in  the  grovds 
where  they  grow.  Just  after  leaving  the  city  the  train  passes  under  the 
great  stone  aqueduct  that  brings  the  city’s  water  supply  from  the  moun- 
tains, five  miles  away.  There  are  eighty  of  these  arches,  the  highest  of 
which,  near  where  the  track  passes  under,  is  ninety-four  feet.  The  view  is 
first  on  the  left  and  then  on  the  right.  The  great  Hercules  cotton  mills  may 
also  be  seen  from  the  right  windows. 

At  San  Juan  del  Rio,  the  last  city  on  the  line,  the  track  reaches  an  ele- 
vation of  6,245  feet  and  commences  the  climb  to  the  plain  of  Cazadero;  and 
the  City  of  San  Juan  del  Rio  may  be  seen  for  miles  and  miles  as  the  train 
crawls  up  the  slope;  at  the  little  station  of  Marquez  it  reaches  the  highest 
point  on  the  line,  8,132  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  then  starts  on  the 
down  grade  to  the  Tula  Valley.  Tula  is  the  junction  of  the  Pachuca  branch. 
This  little  city  is  one  of  the  Toltec  towns  where  there  are  some  old  ruins. 
It  is  a very  picturesque  place  on  the  east  side  of  the  track. 

No  matter  what  may  be  the  time  of  day,  early  in  the  morning,  late  in 
the  evening,  or  if  there  be  a moon,  no  matter  what  time  of  night,  be  ready 
to  see  the  Tajo  de  Nochistongo,  the  great  drainage  canal,  commenced  in 
1607,  with  a purpose  to  drain  the  lakes  above  the  plain  of  Mexico  and  prevent 
the  inundation  of  the  city,  but  after  a cost  of  millions  of  dollars  and  thous- 
ands of  men,  was  abandoned.  The  train  passes  on  the  east  cut  of  the  canal, 
so  the  view  must  be  from  the  west  windows  or  on  the  right,  going  south. 


274 


When  this  great  work  is  approached  let  every  window  on  that  side  be  occu- 
pied. At  Huehuetoca  there  is  the  first  view  of  the  snow  mountains,  the 
great  volcanoes  of  Ixtaccihuatl  and  Popocatepetl  from  the  east  windows,  and 
of  the  plain  of  Mexico,  and  within  an  hour  a journey  that  has  been  full  of 
pleasure  and  crowded  with  novelty  ends  at  Buena  Vista  station,  in  the  City 
of  Mexico. 

Westward  to  Guadalajara.— The  ride  over  the  division  of  the  Mexican 
Central  Railroad,  from  the  main  line  at  Irapuato  to  Guadalajara,  is  not  ex- 
actly like  any  other  ride  in  Mexico  and  for  this  it  is  interesting.  I do  not 
know  that  the  junction  point  was  located  at  Irapuato  as  a particular  favor  to 
the  strawberry  Indians,  but  the  necessary  time  for  the  transfer  of  passengers 
and  baggage  is  very  much  in  their  favor,  and  scarcely  a passenger  but  adds  to 
his  outfit.  The  branch  road  starts  northward  but,  within  half  a mile,  turns 
due  west  and  encircles  the  town  on  its  north  side,  running  along  through  a 
tree  covered  plain.  The  line  is  rich  in  scenic  beauty,  as  all  roads  in  Mexico 


are,  the  journey  is  one  of  pleasure,  no  matter  what  other  object  it  may  have, 
and  it  is  a rich  agricultural  country  as  well.  The  first  station  of  importance 
is  Penjamo,  the  quaint  looking  old  town  lying  to  the  south  of  the  road, 
and  may  be  seen  from  the  cars.  It  is  a very  interesting  old  place,  with  its 
narrow  and  crooked  streets.  It  has  a population  of  about  8,000.  La  Piedad 
is  the  station  for  the  old  town  of  Piedad  Cabadas,  known  in  ancient  and  mod- 
ern history  by  other  aliases,  but  now  answering  to  the  name  given  here. 
It  is.  a city  of  some  10,000  people,  located  south  of  the  line,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Lerma.  Near  the  station  the  River  Lerma  is  crossed.  Here  this  longest 
river  in  Mexico  is  crossed  for  the  first  time  and  the  road  follows  its  wind- 
ings, and  runs  along  the  south  branch  for  some  miles.  From  Yurecnaro  a branch 
extends  southward  to  Zamora  and  beyond  to  the  timber  regions  of  Michoacan. 
The  line  crosses  the  Lerma  again  at  La  Barca,  a city  of  10,000  inhabitants,  on 
Lake  Chapala,  where  the  Lerma  empties  into  it.  The  river  is  sometimes  called 


275 


the  Rio  Grande,  and  is  referred  to  as  the  Mississippi  of  Mexico.  It  is  a curious 
fact  that  this  river  empties  into  Lake  Chapala  at  La  Barca  and  flows  out  of  it  just 
below  Ocotlan,  fifteen  miles  farther  on.  Lake  Chapala  is  a beautiful  body  of 
water,  on  which  there  are  steamboats  and  sail  boats.  The  machinery  of  the  first 
steamer  was  brought  from  California,  by  sea,  to  San  Bias,  and  thence  packed  on 
burros  over  the  mountains;  the  boiler  lies  on  the  beach,  a rusty  monument  to 
American  pluck  and  energy.  It  is  not  recorded  that  anybody  else  has  carried 
steamboats  over  the  mountains  on  mules.  The  voyage  around  the  lake  is 
one  of  seventy  miles,  and  of  many  delights  in  the  superb  scenery,  excep- 
tionally beautiful.  High  and  overhanging  cliffs,  reflected  again  in  the  clear 
waters,  mountains,  fertile  plains,  valleys  with  fields  of  fruit  and  groves  of 
tropical  trees.  Sometimes,  when  a high  east  wind  prevails,  the  waves  loosen 
the  vegetation  growing  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  delta,  where  the  Lerma 
comes  in  and  sends  some  floating  islands,  often  an  acre  in  extent,  out  into 
the  lake.  The  town  of  Chapala,  on  the  north  shore,  is  picturesquely  located 
under  the  towering  cliffs  of  the  mountain,  and  has  long  been  a health  re- 
sort of  the  natives,  on  account  of  the  very  hot  springs  that  are  there,  which 
have  a high  reputation  for  their  curative  properties ; the  waters,  clear  as 
crystal,  gush  from  under  the  rocks  on  the  mountain  side.  Take  boats  from 
Ocotlan  or  stages  from  Atequiza  for  the  resorts  on  Lake  Chapala.  Continuing 
the  journey  by  rail,  west  from  La  Barca,  the  track  comes  to  the  river  again 
and  crosses  it,  after  it  has  left  the  lake,  near  Ocotlan,  the  third  crossing  of 
the  river.  From  the  windows  on  the  right  there  is  to  be  seen  a fine  old 
Spanish  bridge  of  many  arches,  near  Poncitlan,  and  from  the  left  there  is 
another  glimpse  of  the  lake.  The  stream  here  is  more  entitled  to  the  name 
of  river  than  most  of  the  Mexican  rios  are.  They  are  mostly  brooks  or  creeks, 
are  entirely  dry,  except  in  the  rainy  season,  when  they  are  roaring,  raging 
torrents ; but  this  is  a river  that  makes  a leap  of  nearly  a hundred  feet  over  the 
rocks  at  Juanacatlan. 

El  Castillo  is  the  station  for  the  Falls  of  Juanacatlan,  the  Niagara  of  Mexico, 
and,  though  a somewhat  smaller  edition,  is  not  unlike  the  world’s  greatest 
cataract.  A branch  road  runs  from  the  station  to  the  falls,  a ride  of  only 
about  four  miles,  and  is  accomplished  in  about  twenty  minutes ; a trip  to  the 
falls  is  one  of  the  things  to  do.  The  immense  water  power,  that  for  cen- 
turies has  been  owned  by  one  of  the  prominent  families  of  Mexico,  was  util- 
ized only  to  turn  the  wheels  of  a mill  until  an  electric  light  plant  was  put 
in,  and  from  this  point  the  lights  of  Guadalajara  are  supplied.  There  is 
now  a great  cotton  and  woolen  mill  whose  wheels  are  turned  by  the  falls. 
Water-falls  are  not  common  in  Mexico;  it  is  only  in  the  rainy  season  that 
water  falls  to  any  alarming  extent.  There  are  cascades  and  cataracts  that 
are  not  all  in  your  eye,  so  to  speak,  here,  there  and  everywhere,  that  are  not 
always  useful  or  ornamental  for  the  one  requisite  of  water,  but  Juanacatlan 
is  a beauty  and  a joy  that  goes  on  forever  in  the  rainy  season  and  out  of  it, 
but  particularly  in  the  rainy  season. 

The  first  glimpse  of  Guadalajara  is  to  be  had  from  the  windows  on  the 
right  hand,  looking  forward.  The  towers  begin  to  peep  over  the  hills,  and 
a little  further  on  those  of  San  Pedro  can  also  be  seen  north  of  the  track. 
While  you  watch  these,  the  train  is  rolling  on  up  the  grade,  and  in  a few 
minutes  is  passing  the  outlying  gardens  of  the  very  beautiful  city  of  Guada- 
lajara. 

From  Guadalajara  the  line  runs  westward  to  the  mining  districts  of  Ameca 
and  the  city  of  that  name,  with  an  ultimate  extension  to  the  Pacific  slope. 

Westward  to  the  Pacific. — In  its  extension  towards  the  Pacific  Coast  the 


276 


Mexican  Central  Railway  has  adopted  the  route  via  Zapotlan  and  Colima  and 
will  make  its  western  terminus  at  Manzanillo.  At  this  writing  the  road  is  com- 
pleted as  far  as  Tuxpan,  eighteen  miles  southwest  of  Zapotlan,  a primitive  Mexi- 
can city  of  much  beauty  and  of  that  certain  quaintness  that  pertains  to  all  these 
places  but  recently  reached  by  the  railway. 

d'he  ride  from  Guadalajara  is  interesting  in  every  mile  of  it.  Leaving  the 
station  the  route  is  east  for  a mile  or  more,  and  then  turns  southward,  tending 
westward.  There  is  a fine  view  of  Guadalajara  and  that  delightful  suburb  of 
San  Pedro  as  the  train  passes  through  the  fertile  fields  dotted  with  white- 
walled  haciendas.  The  ride  increases  in  interest  and  the  views  grow  pictur- 
esque. Near  Mazatepec  are  the  storage  reservoirs  for  irrigation  in  the  valley 
a little  further  on,  and  after  leaving  Valencia  there  is  a splendid  view  of  moun- 
tain, lake  and  plain,  aqueducts  here  and  there  and  different  levels  with  long 
lines  of  graceful  arches. 

One  of  the  most  picturesque  views  is  of  the  Hacienda  of  Bella  Vista,  seen 
first  from  the  north  and  from  the  hills  above:  then  the  road  winding  down 
finally  comes  almost  under  the  shadow  of  its  domes  and  towers,  passes  over, 
under  and  alongside  its  arched  aqueducts  that  in  one  place  are  outlined  ’gainst 
the  sky  in  a long  line  of  grey  stone.  Along  here  the  road  crooks  and  turns  till 
three  tracks  of  the  route  may  be  seen — one  of  the  most  pleasing  panoramas  in  all 
Mexico. 

The  railway  has  not  been  here  long  enough  to  drive  the  pack  mule  out 
of  business,  and  he  still  makes  up  some  long  trains  ,of  his  own,  carrying  the 
products  of  the  country;  but  not  to  such  long  distances,  not  to  Guadalajara 
any  more ; he  puts  his  burden  down  at  Santa  Ana  and  the  other  stations  along 
the  line.  There  is  a sugar  country  round  about  Santa  Ana,  as  indicated  by  the 
wares  of  the  station  peddlers,  who  bring  to  the  passing  trains  crude  candies  made 
from  native  sugar  and  put  up  in  tiny  crates  made  of  thin  slats  of  cane  not 
longer  than  your  finger,  each  deftly  tied  at  the  corners  with  a thread.  The  box 
is  worth  the  price,  and  the  candy  is  not  half  bad. 

After  Santa  Ana  the  route  is  southward  over  a wide  plain  with  blue  hills 
all  around,  following  a chain  of  shallow  lakes  whose  waters  are  flecked  with  the 
white  of  thousands  of  cranes  and  pelicans. 

Zacoalco  is  an  old  village  of  that  sort  we  see  in  the  old-time  geographies 
a church  with  arched  walls  and  a moth-eaten  tower  background  against  a 
sharp  peaked  mountain. 

This  chain  of  yellow-water  lakes  extends  southward  to  Sayula.  In  the  dry 
season  the  diligencias  had  a smooth  road  through  the  middle  of  the  channel. 
Now,  since  the  passing  of  the  diligencia,  the  railway  skirts  the  borders,  passing 
villages  of  thatched  huts  embowered  in  tropic  trees. 

Near  Sayula  are  some  fine  mining  properties,  and  the  town,  waking  from 
a lethargy,  begins  to  show  signs  of  life.  In  a ride  of  five  kilometers  south- 
ward there  is  a grade  of  700  feet  to  Quemado,  where  there  is  a fine  view  of 
the  plain  and  the  yellow  lakes  to  the  northward  and  the  wide  spreading  plain. 

After  turning  the  summit  at  Quemado  down  into  another  valley  there  are 
some  more  yellow  lakes,  and  the  towers  of  Zapotlan  are  seen  in  the  distance. 
After  leaving  Zapotlan  and  thence  to  Tuxpan  there  are  fine  views  of  the  Volcano 
of  Colima. 

Eastward  to  Tampico. — One  writer  on  Mexico  advises  to  come  to  the 
country  by  sea  and  proceed  from  the  lowlands  to  the  highlands,  with  the 
idea  that  this  is  the  best  from  a scenic  point  of  view — to  go  upward  and  let 
the  scene  grow  upon  you.  I don’t  think  so,  but  rather  to  come  from  the 
broad  table-lands  to  an  abrupt  jumping-off  place  and  look  down,  even  over 


277 


the  tops  of  other  mountains,  lower  hills  and  sloping  plains,  away  to  the  sea, 
and  let  the  picture  fade  in  its  mists.  To  my  mind  this  is  a picture  that  no 
pencil  can  paint  nor  pen  portray.  It  is  often  thus  in  Mexico,  and  particularly 
so  in  this  ride  eastward  to  Tampico.  The  Tampico  division  of  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway  leaves  the  main  line  at  Aguas  Calientes,  at  least  this  is  the 
nominal  junction  point  where  trains  are  made  up  and  where  passengers  change 
cars,  when  that  is  necessary,  but  the  actual  point  of  junction  is  at  Chicalote, 
nine  miles  north,  to  where  trains  run  on  the  main  line  and  then  switch  off  to 
the  east-bound  track. 

The  maguey  of  this  region  is  used  for  the  manufacture  of  mescal.  The  plant 
is  very  much  smaller  than  the  pulque-maguey  of  southern  Mexico;  it  runs  to 
root  and  it  is  from  the  root  that  the  mescal  is  distilled.  The  nopal,  or,  as  it 


FOR  RAINY  WEATHER. 


is  called  sometimes,  the  prickly  pear,  grows  here  in  the  densest  thickets.  It 
bears  a really  palatable  fruit  that  is  a staple  article  of  food  with  the  natives, 
who  also  use  the  leaves  to  feed  to  cattle,  the  thorns  having  first  been  taken 
off  by  slightly  singeing  in  the  fire. 

The  only  place  of  importance  between  Aguas  Calientes  and  San  Luis  Po- 
tosi  is  Las  Salinas  de  la  Penya  Blanca,  a place  of  5,000  people,  near  the  sta- 
tion of  Salinas,  where  one  of  the  greatest  deposits  of  salt  in  the:  world  is 
located;  the  immense  product  is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  ha- 
cienda of  the  Lrrasu  family,  the  owners  of  this  immense  estate,  is  very  like 


278 


a castle  of  the  olden  times,  with  its  moat,  draw-bridge,  portcullis  and  all; 
the  walls  are  as  thick  as  those  of  a fortress  and  have  their  watch-towers  and 
port  holes.  This  was  all  very  necessary  in  the  earlier  days  of  bandits  in 
Mexico.  For  several  years  just  previous  to  the  completion  of  the  railway, 
the  production  of  salt  was  pushed  to  the  fullest  capacity,  so  that  there  were 
thousands  and  thousands  of  tons  ready  for  shipment  when  the  road  was  com- 
pleted, and  now  there  are  required  several  miles  of  sidetracks  to  reach  the 
vats  and  warehouses. 

After  Salinas  the  descent  commences,  and  it  is  more  than  average  down- 
grade from  here  to  Tampico,  and  it  is  simply  rolling  over  one  hill  after  an- 
other, down  to  San  Luis  Potosi.  It  is  an  impressive  view  of  the  city,  as  the 
train  comes  down  from  the  highlands,  enters  the  city  from  the  north,  through 
a wide  avenue,  and  stops  in  the  handsome  stone  station  that  fronts  the  ala- 
meda,  almost  in  the  city’s  center. 

Leaving  San  Luis  Potosi,  the  road  crosses  the  Mexican  National  Railroad, 
on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  and  by  the  steady  and  gradual  slope  of  the  plain, 
runs  down  nearly  1,500  feet  in  forty-seven  miles,  to  Villar.  The  descent  to 
tlie  coast  is  by  a series  of  terraces;  each  terrace  has  its  range  of  hills  on 
the  outward  edge,  which  makes  this  region  peculiarly  picturesque.  It  will 
be  noticed  that  the  east  side  of  these  hills  is  covered  with  trees,  while  the 
west  slope  is  comparatively  bare.  Here  and  there  these  table-lands  are  cut 
through  by  canons,  and  down  through  them  tumbles  the  water,  in  a thous- 
and cascades,  from  terrace  to  terrace,  from  one  table-land  to  another,  on  down 
to  the  sea. 

From  Villar  to  Las  Tablas  is  another  drop  in  the  track  of  about  1,500 
feet,  and  then  it  is  a little  up-grade  to  Cardenas.  The  run  has  been  through 
the  beautiful  San  Ysidro  Valley;  the  track  has  twisted  and  turned  about  the 
mountain  slopes.  The  drop  has  been  so  gradual  as  to  be  hardly  noticed,  and 
if  you  have  thought  the  scenery  grand,  as  it  indeed  is,  do  not  exhaust  your 
adjectives;  they  will  be  needed  a little  further  on,  where  you  can  exhaust  all 
that  are  in  all  the  languages  of  the  world,  over  these,  the  grandest  views  of 
the  world. 

From  Cardenas  to  Las  Canoas  is  only  fourteen  miles,  but  the  drop  is 
about  700  feet,  through  the  very  lovely  valley  where  there  is  verdure  bright 
and  green.  Las  Canoas,  being  interpreted,  means  ‘‘the  canoes,”  not  that 
there  are  any  canoes  hereabouts,  nor  are  any  needed,  nor  is  there  water 
enough  to  float  one;  there  is  water  enough,  but  not  in  any  one  place,  and 
it  is  too  much  on  the  slant,  falling  in  a hundred  cascades.  Las  Canoas  is 
simply  a little  canoe  of  a valley  and  the  prettiest  one  in  the  world,  because 
there  is  no  other  just  exactly  like  it — ^‘a  grassy-bottomed  cup,  closed  in  by 
precipitous  mountains,  from  which  strange  formations  of  fantastically  disposed 
rocks  reach  out  into  the  even  ground.”  One  rock  near  the  road,  just 
above  the  station,  seems  a gigantic  stage  setting  for  the  depicting  of  some 
scene  in  old  Scotland,  though  Scotland  has  no  such  rocks  and  hills  as  these. 
You  may  see  the  pretty  little  cup  of  a valley  while  the  train  stops  at  the 
station;  it  is  only  a little  one,  and  one  look  around  will  cover  it,  though  it 
induces  to  dwell  upon  its  very  loveliness.  Just  ahead  there  is  the  beginning 
of  the  great  Canon  of  the  Tamsopo.  There  indeed  is  the  veritable  “jump- 
ing-off place.”  There,  at  that  switch,  you  can  see  the  rails  bend  downward 
over  the  edge  of  the  canon — a switch  with  a signal  arm  so  long  that  it  ex- 
tends across  the  track;  no  train  or  engine  can  pass  it  without  throwing  it 
down,  and  the  train  off  the  rails.  The  place  is  one  of  such  importance  that 
even  human  watchfulness  is  not  to  be  trusted,  as  a car  or  train  once  beyond 
control^  and  beyond  thi?  switch,  would  be  lost,  but  this  is  a safety  switch  that 


279 


saves.  It  is  always  thrown  to  a side  track  that  runs  out  on  a level  place 
and  averts  any  possibility  of  an  accident;  the  switch  is  never  opened  except 
while  a train  is  passing,  and  is  closed  instantly  by  the  ever  attendant  watchman. 

This  is  a pretty  valley  indeed,  but  there  are  grander  scenes  just  beyond. 
Such  feats  of  engineering  as  you  have  never  dreamed  of,  no  matter  what  rail- 
road you  have  traveled  over.  The  beauties  and  the  wonders  of  it  are  wholly 
indescribable  and  beyond  compare.  A seat  on  the  left,  or  north  side,  of  the 
car  is  the  best;  the  rear  platform,  however,  is  the  vantage  point  if  you  must 
travel  by  train.  But  if  by  any  possible  chance  you  have  an  opportunity  to 
roll  down  the  canon  on  “the  trolleys,”  or  on  an  open  car,  do  it.  It  is  an 
experience  of  a lifetime,  which  the  longest  life  will  not  forget.  The  trolley 
is  what  would  be  called,  anywhere  else,  a hand-car,  closely  resembling  the 
work-car  of  a section  gang,  but  provided  with  a powerful  brake,  that  the 


IN  THE  TAMOSOPO  CANON. 

simple  turning  with  the  fingers  will  bring  in  contact  with  all  the  wheels  in 
a_n  instant;  in  fact  it  is  only  the  experienced  hand  that  prevents  the  trolley- 
car  from  stopping  so  quickly  as  to  throw  the  occupants  forward.  There  are 
seats  for  five  persons  on  each  car,  and  there  are  only  two  trolleys,  so  the 
equipment  has  not  been  arranged  with  a view  to  a large  patronage,  but  if 
there  were  hotels  at  either  end  of  the  canon,  I think  their  number  would  have 
to  be  largely  increased.  And  I,  since  I have  traveled  on  the  trolleys,  would 
not  have  missed  it,  if  I had  to  camp  out  at  both  ends  of  the  ride.  ^ There 
is  an  untrammeled  view,  forward  and  backward,  up  the  steep  mountain  side, 
thousands  of  feet,  down  the  deep  depths  of  the  canon,  thousands  of  feet, 
and  across  the  awful  chasm,  to  the  heights  and  cliffs  beyoiid,  with  no  nar- 
row windows  or  door  to  curtail  the  magnificent  grandeur  of  the  view.  This 


280 


is  travel  by  trolley,  down  the  great  canon  of  Tamasopo,  but  the  average  trav- 
eler must  be  content  with  the  bullnian  car. 

The  throttle  of  the  engine  is  hardly  opened  to  give  the  wheels  a turn  at 
Las  Canoas,  when  it  is  closed,  and  not  opened  again  until  the  mouth  of 
the  canon  is  reached,  seventeen  miles  away,  and  no  steam  is  used  except 
for  the  brakes.  One  hour  and  twenty-seven  minutes  are  used  to  travel  these 
seventeen  miles  that  might  be  done  in  ten  minutes  of  real  hurry,  if  there 
were  no  curves  on  the  track.  Ihe  slow  time  is  for  safety’s  sake,  and  the 
danger  has  been  brought  to  a minimum,  so  that  it  is  not  thought  of;  in 
fact,  there  is  little  thought  of  anything  but  the  wonderful  road  and  its  won- 
derful scenery. 

At  the  head  of  the  canon  the  little  river  jumps  off  in  a pretty  cascade, 
tumbles  over  the  rocks,  foams  and  frets  over  the  great  boulders,  for  some 
hundreds  of  feet,  then  dives  into  the  ground  and  is  seen  no  more  for  sev- 
eral miles.  In  the  rainy  season  there  is  such  a volume  of  water  that  it  can- 
not pass  through  the  underground  passage,  but  runs  over  what  is  now  the 
dry  bed  of  the  canon. 

The  canon  widens  and  the  view  grows  grandly.  Here  and  there  the  track 
is  held  by  great  walls  of  stone,  and  coming  to  some  jutting  crag  too  sharp, 
too  abrupt  to  build  around,  a tunnel  is  cut  through.  In  one  place  there  are 
three  within  a few  feet  of  each  other,  so  that  a train  of  ten  cars  would  be 
in  three  tunnels  at  one  time.  In  our  mountains  and  caves  there  are  pulpits, 
chairs  and  slides  described  as  the  Devil’s,  but  the  Devil’s  Backbone  is  here 
on  the  Mexican  Central,  in  the  Tamasopo  Canon,  and  there  is  a hole  through 
it  big  enough  for  a railroad  train  to  pass.  Passing  from  the  darkness  of  one 
of  these  tunnels  into  the  broad  light  of  brightest  day,  the  marvelous  view 
bursts  upon  the  vision  with  no  warning  of  its  stupendous  immensity.  Perpen- 
dicularly down,  more  than  a thousand  feet,  is  the  density  of  tropical  green 
that  is  shaded  lighter  up  the  mountain  side,  and  in  a thousand  hues,  as  the 
sunlight  falls  upon  them  at  this  angle  or  that.  Over  on  the  other  mountain, 
the  bright  spots  of  lighter  green  are  patches  of  sugar,  and  here,  below  our 
track,  is  the  delicate  pink  of  the  rosewood  tree;  each  tree  seems  as  one  huge 
posy,  so  thick  the  blossoms  are.  Far  away  over  the  other  mountains,  far 
away  over  the  other  valleys,  the  panorama,  it  seems,  stretches  to  infinity,  and 
while  we  hear  the  rushing  of  the  waters,  so  far  below,  we  think  we  can  see 
the  waters  of  an  aerial  river,  or  the  distant  seas  where  earth  and  air  are  lost 
in  their  intermingling.  These  mountains  are  unlike  those  of  the  interior,  be- 
ing covered  with  a tropical  verdure,  fed  by  the  constantly  blowing  mists  from 
the  sea,  while  the  valleys  are  luxuriantly  rich  in  the  density  of  the  full  tropical 
foliage,  and  what  we  see  here,  we  have  not  seen  before  in  all  our  travels 
in  Mexico,  or  other  lands  we  may  have  traveled  in,  for  there  is  not  its  equal 
in  varied  beauty  or  difficulty  of  engineering  accomplishment. 

There  are  six  tracks  in  view,  as  the  road  twists  and  turns  down  towards 
the  valley,  that  we  seem  never  to  get  nearer  to,  and  in  one  place  a track 
seems  just  under  us,  though  we  must  travel  six  miles  before  we  reach  the 
spot  in  view.  It  was  here  that,  on  that  famous  trip  of  the  trolleys,  we  lost 
our  Mexican  attendant,  who  had  gone  back  as  a flagman  against  a possible 
following  train,  and  we  left  him  behind,  as  we  thought,  but  not  if  he  knew 
himself,  his  country  and  our  lunch  basket,  of  which  latter  he  had  had  a 
taste.  He  simply  clambered  down  the  rocks  and  sat  down  to  rest  on  a tie 
of  the  track  down  the  mountain  while  we  rolled  off  our  six  miles  and  caught 
up  with  him! 

If  ever  Joseph’s  brethren  had  let  him  down  into  this  pit  of  St.  Joseph — 
this  Hoyo  de  San  Jose  in  the  Tamasopo  Canon — he  would  never  have  got- 


281 


ten  out  to  distinguish  himself  either  in  Egypt  or  anywhere  else.  It  is  said  to 
be  bottomless.  It  is  in  evidence  that  various  and  sundry  burros,  whose  misfor- 
tunes forced  them  over  the  brink,  never  returned,  and  that  place  whence  no 
burro  returns  has  no  stopping  place  of  even  the  narrowest  proportions,  and 
where  a burro  cannot  climb  must  partake  of  the  perpendicular,  or  of  a polished 
surface.  Indeed,  this  Hoyo  de  San  Jose  is  a wonderful  hole-in-the-ground, 
where  rivers  of  water  empty  their  torrents  in  the  rainy  season.  There  is  no 

outlet,  and  the  pit 
does  not  fill  up, 
then  is  it  not  bot- 
tomless, quien  sa- 
hef  The  railroad 
must  describe  a 
figure  8 to  get 
around  the  pit,  and 
just  west  of  it  is 
established  a little 
station  and  an- 
other safety  switch 
that  is  always  set 
for  the  side  track. 

Here  now  are 
the  full  tropics,  as 
you  have  dreamed 
of  them — g r e a t 
giant  trees,  with 
hanging  vines 
from  the  highest 
branches.  These 
and  the  trees  are 
covered  with  or- 
chids, that  flourish 
in  the  moisture  of 
the  mists  from  the 
sea.  This  almost 
impenetrable  for- 
est is  a dense  mass 
of  verdure,  from 
the  top-most 
branches  to  the 
ferns  that  grow  in 
their  shade.  A lit- 
tle farther  on  the 
wild  undergrowth 

has  been  cleared  away.  This  may  not  be  apparent,  at  first,  as  there 
seems  to  be,  and  there  is  still,  an  undergrowth  of — coffee  trees.  The  road 
runs  through  the  midst  of  one  of  the  finest  coffee  plantations,  and  if 
there  is  time  to  stop  at  the  little  platform  on  the  left  of  the  track,  you  may 
walk  through  it,  and  down  a thousand  steps  to  the  Puente  de  Dios,  where  a rush- 
ing mountain  stream  leaps  in  a flying  cascade  into  a beautiful  pool,  passes  out 
of  view,  and  appears  again  in  other  pretty  pools  below  this  Bridge  of  God. 
If  the  scenery  here  is  not  so  wild,  so  grandly  picturesque,  it  is  not  the  less 


A CORN  BIN. 


282 


interesting;  passing  from  the  forest  and  the  coffee  groves  the  road  comes 
to  an  open  space  and  a comparatively  level  spot  where  the  timber  has  been 
cut  away.  On  the  right  is  a village  of  the  timber  cutters,  a group  of  thatched 
huts  that,  until  now,  you  may  not  have  seen  except  in  pictures,  as  much 
a tropical  village,  both  as  to  architecture  and  fashion  of  dress,  as  you  will  see. 

Here,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  is  a river  fringed  with  palms  and  palmettos. 
The  road  follows  along  its  banks  to  Tamasopo,  now  a little  railroad  town  where 
trains  are  made  up,  and  great  heavy  double-header  engines  are  kept  to 
take  them  up  the  mountain.  Just  out  of  Rascon  the,  river  is  crossed  and 
the  grade  is  downward  to  Valles,  then  up  a short  distance  to  another  canon, 
not  so  great  as  the  one  just  passed,  but  with  one  view  at  least,  it  is  worth 
them  all  to  see.  It  is  the  Canon  del  Abra  de  Caballeros,  and  the  grand  view 
is  of  El  Salto  del  Abra  de  Caballeros  at  the  Boca  del  Abra.  The  view  is 
from  the  left  or  north  windows  of  the  cars,  or  best  from  the  rear  platform. 

Some  day  the  railroad  company  will  operate  an  open  observation  car 
from  Las  Canoas,  because  the  magnificence  of  the  scenery  demands  and  it 
is  impossible  to  grasp  its  grandeur  from  any  car  that  has  sides  or  a roof. 
The  track  comes  to  the  head  of  the  canon  and  runs  along  high  on  the  moun- 
tain side.  The  river  comes  to  view  only  a little  below  the  roadway,  but 
for  a mile  or  more  the  marvelously  colored  waters  fall  in  one  cascade  over 
another  till  there  is  a score  or  more — some  more  than  a hundred  feet  in 
height — all  the  time  in  full  view  from  the  cars;  the  roar  of  the  lower  falls 
cannot  be  heard  from  the  depth  so  far  below.  Here,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
canon,  from  the  high  point  where  the  track  is,  is  the  most  magnificent  pic- 
ture I ever  saw.  There  is  a greater  fall  of  water  at  Niagara,  but  the  high 
towering  peaks  are  here  at  El  Salto  del  Abra,  and  here  is  a cascade  of  three 
hundred  feet,  and  a chain  of  them  more  than  a mile  long.  The  composi- 
tion of  the  landscape  is  simply  superb;  there  are  neither  words  to  describe 
it  and  no  pencil,  however  deft,  can  paint  its  beauties.  The  color  is  of  na- 
ture’s own  and  in  her  brightest  hues.  On  the  other  side  of  the  canon  a tow- 
ering peak  is  3,000  feet  high,  its  sides  precipitously  drop  down  in  gray  rocks 
to  the  water’s  edge,  washed  by  the  torrent  that  goes  on  forever,  and  the 
cliffs  are  whitened  by  the  filmy  white  foam  that  rises  in  mists  from  this 
home  of  the  cascades.  Back  beyond  the  beginning  of  the  falls,  another  and 
a higher  mountain  raises  its  head  loftily.  If  you  can,  persuade  your  con- 
ductor to  stop  a minute — a minute  here  is  worth  an  hour  anywhere  else  in 
the  world  where  a railroad  runs — only  a minute  for  the  very  grandeur  of  it. 

I stood  there  and  gazed  rapturously.  I asked  for  another  minute,  but 
I was  called  back  to  earth  from  the  pinnacle  to  where  I had  soared.  I took 
that  minute,  and  my  rifle  from  the  car,  with  the  thought  to  see  if  it  would 
carry  to  the  cliffs  beyond.  I fired  a shot,  and  a thousand  parrots,  startled, 
flew  screaming,  circling  around  above  and  below  us,  settling  down  again  in 
the  trees  where  their  dwelling  places  are. 

While  these  minutes  were  flying,  the  one  great  picture  had  so  filled  the 
eye  that  not  one  look  was  taken  ahead.  Here  the  canon  widens  out  and 
we  look  abroad,  over  a hundred  miles  of  sloping  plain,  with  undulating  hills 
that  lie  between  us  and  the  sea.  Still,  however,  we  are  skirting  along  the 
sides  of  high  mountains  in  which  there  are  many  caves.  One,  La  Ventana, 
has  a chamber  that  is  nearly  700  feet  high.  The  name  comes  from  an  open- 
ing or  window  near  the  top  that  may  be  seen  a long  way  off,  in  the  moun- 
tain side.  To  reach  La  Ventana  requires  a walk  above  the  roadway,  but  an- 
other, Choy  Cave,  is  immediately  under  the  track;  in  fact,  a bridge  is  built 
over  the  skylight  of  this  cavern,  and  steps  have  been  made  down  to  the 
entrance  two  hundred  feet  below,  from  which  comes  a stream  of  clear,  cold 


283 


water.  The  chamber  of  Choy  Cave  is  over  200  feet  high  and  with  steps 
and  passage  ways  along  the  subterranean  river  that  is  nearly  a hundred  feet 
deep.  Downward  the  grade  is,  with  plains  and  the  biggest  Mexican  rivers 
to  see  and  cross,  the  rivers  Tamesi  and  Panuco,  near  Tamos.  Near  the  line 
are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  Aztec  city  that  cover  some  miles  of  territory,  so 
that  it  must  have  been  a populous  capital.  These  cities  of  the  ancients  of 
Mexico  are  not  to  be  seen  from  the  cars,  but  the  more  curious  and  venture- 
some tourist  will  rind  a field  to  interest  him  and  worth  his  while  to  explore, 
though  he  must  camp  out;  there  is  not  even  a fonda  for  frijoles  or  tortillas, 
and  only  jacals  for  shelter. 

We  came  down  from  these  grand  mountains  to  the  sea,  and  when  we 
stopped  at  Tampico  it  was  night,  the  car  was  rolled  out  on  the  jetties,  and 
while  the  breezes  of  the  Gulf  fanned  us,  we  listened  to  the  lullaby  of  the  waves, 
and  dreamed  of  mountains  miles  and  miles  in  height,  that  the  sea  beat 
against  and  came 
down  over  their  tops 
in  a cascade  as  wide 
as  the  ocean. 

Eastward  over  the 
Mexican  Railway. — 

The  first  railway  of 
Mexico  was  built 
from  Vera  Cruz  to 
the  City  of  Mexico, 
and,  long  before  any 
of  the  others  were 
finished,  the  fame  of 
this  one  went  abroad, 
and  all  over  the 
world  the  wonders  of 
its  engineering  feats, 
and  the  magnificence 
of  its  scenery,  was 
told,  till  people 
crossed  the  seas  with 
no  other  object  than 
to  look  upon  its  beau- 
ties, and  the  won- 
drous work  of  its 
building.  It  is  easier 
of  access  now.  and 
there  are  thousands  of  travelers  that  start  eastward  from  the  capital,  or  west- 
ward from  the  Gulf,  with  the  same  object  in  view. 

Passing  out  of  the  fine  station  of  Buena  Vista,  the  track  takes  a north- 
erly course  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  runs  along  the  solid  roadbed  of 
an  ancient  causeway,  trod  by  pilgrims  to  the  shrine  of  Guadalupe  for  more 
than  three  centuries,  and  on  either  side  of  the  track  stand  the  shrines  where 
the  processions  halted,  and  weary  wayfarers  worshiped.  Along  the  east  side 
of  the  track  is  the  more  modern  road  of  foot  travel,  and  the  line  of  electric 
cars,  from  the  city  to  the  shrine.  Under  the  shadow  of  Guadalupe  the  track 
turns  somewhat  to  the  east;  on  the  left  is  the  village,  the  great  church,  the 
stone  sails,  and  the  chapel  on  the  hill  all  to  be  seen  from  the  cars. 

There  is  little  choice  of  seats  just  here.  On  the  right  there  are  views  of 
the  city,  the  lake  and  plain,  and  the  great  volcanoes.  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtac- 


THE  BARRANCA  ROAD  NEAR  GUADALAJARA. 


284 


cihnatl  are  constantly  in  view,  then  Malintzi,  and  then  Orizaba.  In  two  hun- 
dred miles  there  are  snow-capped  mountains  always  in  sight.  On  the  right 
is  Lake  Texcoco,  on  the  left  Lake  San  Cristobal,  and  on  either  side  may  be 
seen  the  great  drainage  works  that  are  to  drain  the  water  from  these  lakes, 
and  reclaim  the  lands  of  the  valley. 

Near  San  Juan  Teotihuacan  are  the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon,  seen 
from  the  windows  on  the  left.  Not  very  formidable  pyramids  as  seen  from  the 
cars,  but  the  “Sun”  is  216,  and  the  “Moon”  151  feet  high;  the  former  more  than 
half  as  large  as  the  great  Cheops  of  Egypt.  Between  the  two  pyramids  is  a 
causeway,  called  the  Street  of  the  Dead,  also  seen  from  the  cars. 


ABOVE  MALTRATA,  MEXICAN  RAILWAY. 

At  Otumba  is  the  field  of  battle  between  Cortez  and  the  Mexicans,  July  8, 
1520,  during  the  retreat  after  the  defeat  of  the  Noche  Triste. 

These  scenes  left  behind,  and  after  passing  Ometusco,  the  junction  point 
for  Pachuca,  the  course  is  southeastward,  across  an  almost  level  table-land,  to 
the  Plain  of  Apam,  where  the  pulque  grows,  the  track  passing  through  fields 
and  fields  of  thousands  and  thousands  of  acres  of  the  immense  plants  that 
an  American  would  call  “century”  plants.  The  Apam  pulque  is  the  best,  or, 
perhaps  it  is  better  to  say,  the  favorite,  with  those  who  drink  pulque,  and 
if  you  have  not  made  the  experiment,  you  will  find  no  better  place  to  try 
it  than  at  Apam.  The  dealers  meet  all  trains, 


285 


The  pulque  traffic  is  a source  of  great  revenue  to  the  railway  companies. 
Regular  trains,  carrying  nothing  but  pulque,  leave  the  stations  in  the  re- 
gion from  one  to  three  o’clock  in  the  morning,  running  on  fast  time,  reaching 
the  city  between  five  and  six  o’clock.  The  barrels  and  hogskins  are  tumbled 
out  onto  the  Custom  House  platform,  the  duty  paid,  and  a hundred  carts  and 
cargadores  take  it  to  the  “shops,”  all  over  the  city.  Pulque  will  not  keep, 
and  the  Mexican  knows  it.  He  hurries  it  onto  the  train,  and  rushes  it  to  the 
place  of  sale,  drinks  it  and  goes  back  after  another  load.  From  the  fields  to 
the  “shops”  it  is  not  more  than  a day.  When  the  plant  is  about  to  send 
up  the  long  slender  shoot  that  bears  the  bloom  of  the  century  plant,  the  bud 
is  cut  out,  and  in  the  basin  formed  the  sap  gathers,  and  is  taken  out  by  a 
man,  with  a long  slender  gourd.  With  his  lips  he  withdraws  the  air  from 
the  gourd,  and  the  crude  pulque  fills  it,  and  is  poured  into  the  hogskin 
on  his  back,  which,  when  full,  is  loaded  on  a burro  or  cart,  taken  to  the 
hacienda,  and  after  a quick  process  of  fermentation,  it  is  ready  for  the  pulque 
train  and  the  market. 

At  Soltepec  all  four  of  the  great  peaks  may  be  seen  in  one  grand  sweep 
of  the  vision.  At  Apizaco  the  branch  line  extends  south  to  the  city  of  Puebla, 
passing  Santa  Ana,  the  station  for  the  ancient  city  of  Tlaxcala.  Along  the 
branch  are  some  points  of  scenic  interest.  On  the  right,  after  leaving  the 
station,  is  the  Church  of  Santa  Cruz,  a little  further  on,  on  the  left,  the  grand 
old  mountain,  Malintzi,  in  the  distance,  and  near  the  road  a little  canon  and  a 
cascade,  whose  waters  supply  the  power  for  a woolen  mill.  After  crossing 
some  barrancas,  the  train  makes  a stop  at  Santa  Ana,  from  whence  street 
cars  run  to  Tlaxcala.  The  towers  of  its  churches  are  seen  from  the  windows 
on  the  right,  and  in  a little  while,  from  these  same  windows,  may  be  seen  the 
Pyramid  of  Cholula,  and  a look  ahead  will  show  the  towers  of  Puebla  and 
the  old  forts  on  the  hills  beyond. 

Buy  canes  at  Apizaco;  canes  of  all  the  woods  that  grow  in  Mexico.  They 
are  on  sale  on  the  station  platform,  along  with  the  cakes,  pies  and  pulque. 
You  can  buy  one,  or  a cord,  for  it  seems  here  is  a solution  of  the  timberless 
hills  of  the  country;  they  have  been  stripped  by  the  cane  makers  of  Apizaco. 
There  are  large  canes  and  small,  cut  and  carved  in  designs  fantastic,  painted 
in  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  and  of  the  flowers  that  grow.  Canes  for  the 
old  man,  the  dude,  and  the  small  boy.  It  is  Apizaco’s  admonition,  that  if  any 
man  passes  that  way,  and  afterward  goes  down  to  his  grave  caneless,  it  is 
his  own  fault.  There  is  a good  restaurant  and  buffet  in  the  station,  and  there 
is  usually  time  to  buy  canes  and  coffee,  during  the  time  of  transfer  of  pas- 
sengers and  baggage  for  Puebla. 

Leaving  Apizaco,  the  course  of  the  main  line  is  slightly  to  the  south- 
east, and  in  a few  miles  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  8,333  feet,  is  reached. 
The  road  runs  at  the  base  of  old  Mount  Malintzi,  and,  passing  the  foot-hills, 
comes  to  San  Andres,  where  passengers  desiring  to  make  the  ascent  of  the 
volcano  of  Orizaba  change  cars.  Now  the  scenery  becomes  more  interesting, 
as  the  track  winds  in  and  out  among  the  hills,  a seeming  prelude  to  the 
gradeur,  just  ahead,  that  no  words  are  adequate  to  describe. 

Esperanza  is  the  stopping  place  at  the  edge  of  the  great  terrace  of  the 
table-land,  8,043  feet  above  the  sea,  where  commences  the  descent  to  the  tierra 
caliente.  At  Esperanza  the  Mexican  Railway  maintains  extensive  yards  and 
shops,  and  hence,  southward,  a horse-car  line  runs  to  Tehuacan,  on  the  Mexi- 
can Southern  Railway.  The  station  building  combines  ticket  and  telegraph 
offices,  a good  restaurant  and  comfortable  hotel.  It  is  not  much  of  a pull 
for  the  engine  to  make  the  start  out  of  the  Esperanza  yards.  The  loosening 
of  the  brake  will  sometimes  start  the  train,  without  the  opening  of  the 


280 


throttle.  The  wheels  begin  to  turn,  and  the  only  steam  needed  will  be  to 
slow  up,  or  stop  the  train.  With  only  little  stretches  of  up-grade,  it  is  a roll 
from  Esperanza  to  Vera  Cruz.  The  drop  from  the  yards  here  to  Maltrata, 
seventeen  miles,  is  2,493  feet,  and  from  Maltrata,  (5,550  feet  in  altitude),  to 
Orizaba,  3,943  feet.  The  slip  down  is  1,607  feet  in  thirteen  miles,  making  a 
total  descent  of  4,100  feet  in  twenty-nine  miles. 

A seat  on  the  right  of  the  car  is  to  be  chosen.  The  incline  of  the  train 
can  be  felt,  as  it  moves  toward  Boca  del  Monte,  the  “mouth  of  the  moun- 
tain,” and  here  commences  the  grandest  piece  of  scenery — one  of  the  grand 
views  of  the  world.  On  one  side,  the  towering  mountains — the  road  is  only 
a little  shelf  hewn  in  the  rocks — on  the  other,  down  a thousand  feet  or  more, 
is  a rushing  stream,  foaming  and  fretting  over  the  rocks  and  boulders,  at 
the  bottom  of  a yawning  canon,  and  beyond  it  mountains  as  high  as  this  on 
whose  side  the  train  crawls  along.  Whether  the  engineers  sought  the  spot 
near  La  Boca  as  the  most  available  for  a water  supply,  or,  in  commendable 
forethought,  placed  the  tank  here  that  the  people  might  enjoy  the  view,  while 
water  is  taken,  the  deponent  saith  not,  but  the  thanks  of  every  traveler  are 
due  for  the  placing  of  the  tank  where  it  is,  whatever  may  have  been  the 
motive.  Without  any  warning,  or  prelude  of  the  grandeur,  the  magnificence, 
the  surpassing  beauty  of  the  picture,  it  bursts  upon  the  vision.  A bridge  over 
an  awful  chasm  inspires  awe,  and  a tunnel  shuts  the  eyes  to  its  depths,  for  a 
moment  only,  and  then,  as  in  the  sudden  lifting  of  a curtain,  from  dark- 
ness to  daylight,  displays  the  picture  that  no  pencil  paints. 

Here  the  engine  stops  for  water,  a prosaic  reason  for  such  a poetic  pleas- 
ure in  the  looking  on  such  a view,  and  demands  the  traveler’s  gratitude. 

No  window  is  broad  enough  for  its  scope,  and  a doorway  is  all  too  nar- 
row. Every  passenger  is  out  and  down  on  the  narrow  space  between  the 
rails  and  edge  of  the  canon.  There  is  Maltrata,  a dozen  miles  away,  to  fol- 
low the  rails,  yet  we  look  down  on  the  red  tiles  of  the  roofs;  the  round 
tower  of  the  village  church  gleams  in  the  sunshine,  two  thousand  feet  straight 
down  below  your  feet;  the  streets,  gardens,  houses,  look  like  the  toys  from 
a child’s  play-box,  and  the  people  are  only  pigmies.  The  green  fields  are 
like  a checker-board,  spread  out  in  the  valley.  You  may  look  beyond  the  val- 
ley, to  the  other  mountains,  look  ahead  to  some  others,  and  see  above  them 
the  snow-tipped  peak  of  Orizaba;  or  try  to  follow  the  silver  thread  of  the 
stream  in  the  valley,  or  the  shining  rails  of  the  track,  winding  down  the 
mountain.  You  may  for  a moment  traffic  with  the  Indians  for  the  most  beau- 
tiful orchids,  but  the  gem  of  the  view  is  in  the  valley  right  under  you,  and 
your  furtive  glances  come  back  to  this  jewel  of  a valley.  La  Joya,  till  it 
is  indelibly  fixed  in  your  mind  as  the  most  beautiful  picture  you  ever  saw. 

The  object  of  the  stop  is  accomplished,  whether  it  was  for  water  for  the 
engine,  or  for  you  to  see  the  view,  and  the  train  rolls  on.  Regretfully,  per- 
haps, you  think  of  the  orchids,  that  you  failed  to  purchase;  surely,  those  very 
orchids  were  worth  as  many  dollars  in  your  own  country  as  the  Indians 
demanded  in  cents.  And  you  wondered,  perhaps,  why  they  refused  your  of- 
fer, held  them  at  the  original  price,  and,  unlike  all  the  other  Indians  every- 
where else,  would  not  take  less.  Just  wait  a little  while,  and  you  may  have 
another  chance  at  these  same  orchids.  While  the  train  is  running  its  dozen 
miles,  curving  in  and  out  on  the  hillside,  there  is  a rough-and-tumble  scramble 
of  these  Indians,  two  thousands  feet  down  the  rocks,  and  the  same  orchids 
that  you  didn’t  buy  will  be  at  the  station  at  Maltrata  when  you  get  there; 
nnd  as  that  is  the  last  chance  for  the  Indian  to  sell  to-day,  you  may  be  able 
to  buy  at  your  own  price. 

Crossing  the  little  valley  of  Maltrata,  keep  your  seat  on  the  right  of  the 


287 


car.  The  road  enters  a canon,  called  ‘Tnfernillo,’’  the  ravine  of  the  “little 
hell,”  which,  barring  the  absence  of  any  superfluous  heat,  seems  to  be  prop- 
erly named,  and  the  railway  builders  must  have  had  a difficult  time  in  run- 
ning their  lines  through  such  a place.  There  is  a bridge  140  feet  high, 
with  a sheer  precipice  above  and  below,  with  the  mountain  stream  falling 
down  the  chasm  in  a roaring  cascade.  Through  a tunnel,  and  out  at  the 
other  end,  is  another  beautiful  valley,  the  Valley  of  the  Cascades.  The  road 
runs  down  through  the  center  of  it,  passing  Nogales,  and  coming  to  Orizaba. 
There  are  fine  views  on  either  side,  but  the  towns  and  villages  are  on  the 
north  of  the  road. 


ON  THE  MEXICAN  (VERA  CRUZ)  RAILWAY. 


Orizaba  is  on  the  border  of  the  tropic  lands,  and  the  scenery  hence  is  un- 
like any  left  behind.  The  finest  views  are  on — both  sides.  The  rear  platform 
is  the  best  position,  as  from  there  nothing  should  be  missed.  Running 
through  the  palm-shaded  street,  the  road  goes  into  the  cane  and  coffee  fields. 
The  volcano  is  in  the  view,  and  the  hill  on  the  left,  overlooking  the  city,  is  the 
Cerro  del  Borrego,  where  a small  body  of  French  held  at  bay  a much  larger 
force  of  Mexicans,  during  the  Maximilian  war. 

After  six  or  seven  miles,  the  line  enters  the  Barranca  de  Metlac.  The 
choice  of  seats  is  on  the  right,  to  see  the  deep  ravine,  and  the  Rio  Metlac, 
nearly  a thousand  feet  below.  Here  an  immense  horseshoe  curve  takes  the 


288 


track  around  the  head  of  the  valley,  over  a curved  bridge,  on  the  other  side 
of  which  is  an  ascending  grade  to  Fortin,  then  down  hill  to  Cordoba.  The 
view  down  the  river  is  a pretty  one  indeed,  the  old  stone  bridge  of  the  high- 
way in  the  foreground,  and  the  bluest  of  blue  hills  in  the  distance. 

The  town  of  Cordoba  is  on  the  north  of  the  track.  It  might  be  seen  from 
the  cars,  but  for  the  dense  tropical  forest  intervening.  It  may  seem  to  you 
that  all  the  inhabitants  are  at  the  station,  dressed  in  their  best  suits  of  clothes — 
bright  and  clean,  wide  of  trouser,  and  broad  of  straw  sombrero,  and  brightly- 
colored  costume  of  woman’s  dress.  Here  the  tropic  Mexican  appears,  in  all 
his  picturesqueness,  as  he  is  seen  in  pictures. 

On  down  the  hill,  the  road  runs  through  coffee  plantations,  fields  of  sugar- 
cane and  tropic  forests  of  palm  and  palmetto,  groves  of  oranges,  gardens  of 
mangoes,  pineapples  and  bananas,  from  whence  come  the  luscious  fruits 
brought  to  the  cars  at  Cordoba. 

Through  some  tunnels,  and  over  bridges,  the  road  drops  down  into  the 
Atoyac  Valley,  and  crosses  the  river  of  that  name,  just  beyond  the  station, 
and  just  after  leaving  it.  On  the  right,  after  the  tunnel  is  passed,  is  another 
beautiful  view,  with  a cascade  falling  from  the  hill  over  the  rocks,  splashing 
the  water  to  snowy  foam,  and  making  a silver  ribbon  through  the  deep  val- 
ley below.  Passing  the  bridge  Chiquihuite,  and  that  of  San  Alejo,  the  road 
comes  to  Paso  del  Macho,  where  the  mountain  scenery  is  left  behind,  and 
with  a few  more  twists  and  turns,  takes  a due  eastward  course  across  the 
slope  to  Vera  Cruz. 

From  Esperanza  to  Paso  del  Macho  an  open  car  with  no  top  or  sides 
is  almost  a necessity  and  the  day  will  come  when  they  will  be  carried  on 
express  trains,  as  it  is  impossible  to  enjoy  the  full  grandeur  of  the  scenery 
in  a closed  car. 

Westward  over  the  lateriiatioiial.-It  makes  little  difference  at  what 
point  the  traveler  comes  to  the  border,  his  curious  eyes  will  look  with  won- 
der before  he  crosses  the  bridge  over  the  narrow,  sluggish,  muddy  little  creek 
that  forms  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico — a creek 
that  does  not  seem  to  have  grown  a bit  since  it  left  El  Paso,  unless  it  be  in 
mud  and  murkiness,  and  why  it  was  ever  called  the  Rio  Grande  nobody  but 
the  man  who  named  it  will  ever  know.  Perhaps  the  discoverer  came  upon 
it  unawares  on  a rainy  day  during  the  wet  season,  certainly  not  on  such  a 
day  as  when  I saw  it  first,  when  it  seemed  there  was  hardly  water  enough  and 
hardly  current  enough  to  carry  the  mud  along. 

One  does  not  look  at  the  river,  though,  but  to  the  hills  beyond — the  bleak 
and  barren  hills  that  came  to  view  when  you  are  a hundred  miles  away  across 
the  Texas  prairies.  And  yet  one  does  not  see  Mexico  in  these  hills — only 
where  Mexico  is.  Beyond  the  hills,  in  table-lands,  fertile  valleys  and  old- 
time  cities  with  domed  and  towered  churches,  is  Mexico. 

At  Spofford  Junction,  on  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  a division 
of  the  road  makes  a detour  to  the  southwestward,  and  comes  to  the  border 
at  Eagle  Pass,  where  the  connection  is  with  the  Mexican  International  .Rail- 
road. The  town  on  the  Texas  side  is  Eagle  Pass;  at  the  other  end  of  the 
steel  bridge  it  is  La  Ciudad  Porfirio  Diaz.  The  original  name  of  the  town, 
Piedras  Negras,  was  changed  in  honor  of  the  President  of  Mexico.  Since 
the  opening  of  the  line,  in  March,  1888,  and  the  establishment  of  the  railroad 
headquarters  here,  the  towns  have  grown,  till  they  now  number  about  6,000 
people.  The  altitude  is  722  feet  above  the  sea,  and  healthfulness  is  conceded. 
The  higher  elevations  are  not  far  away,  and  the  climb  to  them  commences  at 
the  river,  reaching  1,200  feet,  at  Nava,  in  twenty-four  miles,  and,  still  on 
the  rising  grade,  the  road  passes  Allende,  Leonora,  Peyotes  and  Blanco, 


S8D 


places  of  1,000  to  1,500  people.  At  Sabinas  there  is  a branch  to  the  coal  mines 
of  Hondo  and  Felipe.  The  supply  of  bituminous  coal  is  practically  inex- 
haustible. A branch  line  to  Lampazos  is  proposed  to  be  extended  from  the 
coal  mines.  After  crossing  the  Rio  Sabinas,  the  average  is  up-grade  to  Mon- 
clova,  where  the  altitude  is  1,926  feet. 

At  Hermanas  are  some  hot  springs  that  are  claimed  to  be  equal  to  the 
famous  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas  with  a warm  and  equable  climate.  Mon- 
clova  is  one  of  the  very  many  very  old  towns  in  Mexico,  that  have  made 
very  little  headway  in  population  or  advancement,  and  the  primitiveness  of  it 
is  its  novelty.  Near  the  city  is  a rich  mine  of  magnetic  iron,  and  the  whole 
region,  round  about,  is  rich  in  the  more  precious  metals. 


At  Monclova  a branch  line  extends  westward  to  Cuatro  Cienegas  with 
an  ultimate  destination  at  Mazatlan  on  the  Pacific  coast,  passing  Sierra  Mo- 
jada,  Jimenez  and  Culiacan.  From  Nadadores  there  is  a stage  line  thirty  miles 
to  San  Lucas  Springs,  where  there  is  a hotel  and  Sanatarium. 

From  Reata  a branch  runs  from  the  main  line  southwest  to  Monterey,  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  Mexican  National  and  the  Monterey  & Gulf 
Railways.  The  direction  hence  is  almost  due  south,  to  Trevino,  the  junc- 
tion point  with  the  Monterey  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  and 
the  Gulf  at  Tampico.  At  Jaral  the  road  reaches  an  elevation  of  3,753  feet,  and 
runs  within  about  thirty  miles  of  Saltillo,  the  capital  of  Coahuila,  to  which 
point  a branch  line  is  proposed.  There  is  a look  of  utter  desolation  in  these 
hills,  but  there  are  valleys  between,  where  there  are  fertile  lands,  and  where 
herds  and  flocks  are  grazing. 


290 


Now  the  road  takes  a more  westerly  course,  runs  along  the  table-lands 
and  comes  to  Paila,  where  the  altitude  is  3,898  feet.  A few  miles  to  the  south 
of  the  line  is  the  very  ancient  town  of  Parras,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Mexico, 
having  been  founded  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  Th^  location 
is  superb,  renowned  for  its  healthfulness,  in  the  midst  of  a fine  grape  coun- 
try. The  wines  of  Parras  are  sold  in  almost  every  Mexican  city  and  are 
rated  high.  They  are  made  in  both  clarets  and  sauternes.  When  the  Parras 
branch  is  completed  the  old  town  may  take  a new  lease  of  life. 

From  Hornos  a branch  extends  northward  through  the  cotton  country  to 
San  Pedro,  fourteen  miles.  Near  Hornos  are  the  inexhaustible  salt  mines  that 
supply  the  product  to  all  parts  of  the  country. 

At  Matamoros  there  is  an  extension  northward  through  the  Laguna  coun- 
try, forty-one  miles,  to  Zaragoza,  reaching  the  cotton  districts. 

The  course  is  now  westward,  running  a little  north  of  Lake  Parras,  a 
typical  Mexican  lake  about  3,600  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  north  of  the 
line  is  the  larger  lake,  Mayran.  It  is  a level  track  now  along  the  southern 
borders  of  the  great  Bolson  de  Mapimi  until  Torreon  is  reached,  where  con- 
nection is  made  with  the  Mexican  Central  Railway;  the  elevation,  here,  is  3,721 
feet. 

Torreon  is  near  the  Nazas  River,  the  great  irrigating  ditch  of  this  terri- 
tory, and  three  miles  north  is  the  city  of  Lerdo  in  the  midst  of  Mexico’s  most 
famous  cotton  regions,  where  ’tis  said  the  cotton  grows  on  trees.  Proceed- 
ing westward  on  the  International  it  is  only  five  miles  to  the  lovely  San 
Juan  Valley  where  the  train  rounds  a curve  and  rolls  into  the  oasis.  The 
high  point  of  rocks  on  the  left  forms  the  gateway,  and  to  the  other  side  of 
the  track  the  valley  stretches  away  to  the  north.  It  is  a pretty  valley,  is  the 
San  Juan,  and  they  have  made  the  waters  of  it  run  around  its  borders  on  the 
hillsides,  and  through  aqueducts  of  stone,  till  it  is  high  enough  to  irrigate  the 
fields.  It  looks  as  though  these  Indian  engineers  had  made  the  water  run 
up  hill;  we  crossed  the  stream  back  there,  and  here  it  is  on  a level  with  our 
windows. 

Across  the  valley  the  rows  of  trees  show  which  way  the  river  runs,  and 
dotted  here  and  there,  little  patches  of  white  mark  the  village  and  hacienda, 
with  the  fertile  fields  in  between  and  growing  grain  nearly  ready  for  the 
harvest.  They  have  two  harvests  each  year  in  this  valley,  which  they  would 
not  have  one,  perhaps,  if  they  waited  for  the  rains,  but  the  blessed  little  river 
stands  in  the  rainmaker’s  place. 

All  the  mountains  in  Mexico  are  cut  in  fantastic  shapes,  but  here,  on  this 
road,  a freakful  nature  seems  to  have  outdone  herself,  or  perhaps,  this  road 
gives  us  a closer  view  of  the  rocks  and  crags  that  look  like  castles  or  a herd 
of  some  huge  monsters  outlined  against  the  sky. 

At  Pedricena  there  is  a branch  southward  six  miles  to  Velardena. 

Some  miles  below  there  is  a cave  (any  conductor  will  point  out  the  place; 
a black  hole  in  the  hill  on  the  north  side),  a veritable  robbers’  cave,  where  tne 
bandits  buried  their  dead,  or  came  to  hide  themselves  and  count  the  proceeds 
of  business  in  the  old  diligencia  days.  The  robbers  are  not  there  now,  but  there 
are  the  relics  of  them  in  skulls  and  bones.  The  cave  is  high  upon  the  almost 
perpendicular  sides  of  the  mountain  and  the  opening  is  just  large  enough  for 
a man  to  drop  himself  into  a chamber  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  as  wide,  with 
six  or  eight  feet  from  floor  to  ceiling  and  a narrow  opening  to  another  smaller 
room.  The  darkness  can  almost  be  felt,  and  the  dust  of  ages,  a foot  thick  on 
the  floor,  makes  the  place  uninviting.  A friendly  Mexican  match  will  give 
a glimpse  of  the  glittering  stalactites;  on  the  floor  and  against  the  sides  of  the 


291 


chamber  are  the  evidences  of  the  robber  story,  and  a skull  or  twc  may  be  added 
to  your  collection  of  curios  from  this  curious  country. 

Long  drouths  parch  the  country,  but  the  land  is  fertile,  even  without  rain, 
and  irrigation  is  a science  in  Mexico.  The  stranger  wonders  what  there  is 
to  support  the  haciendas  that  are  as  big  as  a town.  “Can  anything  grow 
here?”  some  one  asks.  “Nothing  is  impossible  in  Mexico.  See  that  palm  tree 
over  there  in  that  hacienda;  it  is  the  only  one  within  three  hundred  miles, 
and  where  the  palm  grows  there  is  life  in  the  land.”  This  is  truth;  the  palm 
is  there  and  there  is  not  another  this  side  of  Tampico. 


ENTRANCE  TO  SAN  JUAN  VALLEY,  MEXICAN  INTERNATIONAL  RAILROAD. 

On  the  south  of  the  road,  a little  farther  on,  is  an  extinct  volcano  that  is 
near  the  track,  some  four  or  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  if  there  was  time  for 
the  stop,  it  would  be  worth  all  the  climb  to  look  down  into  the  awful  crater, 
with  its  sides  and  depths  crusted  with  the  lava  of  a thousand  years,  or  more 
it  may  have  been.  You  can  see  the  volcano  from  the  cars  as  you  pass  by,  but 
you  must  climb  to  the  crater  if  you  would  see  that.  I might  enlarge  upon 
this  story,  as  the  train  does  not  stop  here  and  there  is  little  chance  to  disprove, 
but  the  truth  is  enough  to  tell  of  anything  in  Mexico. 


292 


The  road  now  is,  for  the  most  part,  across  the  plains;  the  everlasting  hills 
surrounding  it  are  never  out  of  sight.  There  is  an  iron  bridge  across  the  bed 
of  a river,  now  bone  dry,  that  when  you  come  back  may  be  a rushing  torrent. 
When  it  rains  in  Mexico,  it  rains;  the  showers  may  be  few  and  far  between, 
but  when  they  come  they  make  up  for  lost  time.  But,  withal,  there  is  life 
in  this  seemingly  arid  soil,  else  how  came  the  trees  that  for  miles  along  this 
plain  make  it  look  like  one  vast  orchard?  And  there  is  water  above  ground, 
though  your  palace  car  point  of  observation  may  not  disclose  it,  else  where  do 
they  drink  and  how  get  a sustenance — these  herds  of  horses  and  cattle?  Across 
the  spreading  plain  is  the  city  of  Durango  afar  off,  the  towers  rising  above 
the  low-roofed,  square-topped  houses.  Beyond  the  city,  and  overlooking  it,  is 
a high  hill  with  the  Church  of  Los  Remedios  on  its  very  top.  A golden  sunset 
makes  the  background  of  gorgeous  hue,  and  while  you  watch  its  beauties  the 
train  rolls  down  to  the  station,  where  the  people  wait  your  coming  just  as  they 
waited  for  those  that  came  yesterday. 

The  train  comes  to  an  anchor  at  the  pretty  stone  station,  and  almost  under 
the  shadow  of  the  wonderful  iron  mountain  that  was  one  of  the  objects  of  the 
building  of  this  road.  A mountain  of  solid  iron  it  is,  the  ore  ranging  from 
75  to  90  per  cent  of  pure  iron,  and  enough  of  it  to  supply  the  world  for  a 
hundred  years.  The  completion  of  the  railroad  did  not  help  the  iron  industry 
of  Durango,  though.  The  little  foundry  that  did  a land-office  business  for  so 
many  years  got  thirty-five  cents  a pound  for  iron  till  the  railroad  came,  and 
they  found  they  could  buj^  in  Pittsburgh  and  ship  to  Durango  for  a great  deal 
less  than  thirty-five  cents.  The  old  foundry,  with  its  wooden  machinery  and 
water-power,  has  been  replaced  by  a million-dollar  smelter,  and  iron  is  cheaper 
now. 

A busy,  bustling  scene  is  at  the  station;  coachmen  call  their  destinations 
and  fares,  darting  here  and  there  to  relieve  some  weary  traveler  of  his  baggage 
and,  if  he  can,  thrust  him  into  his  own  particular  coach,  before  the  traveler 
can  enter  a word  of  protest.  Private  carriages  are  there  in  numbers,  whose 
drivers,  more  dignified  than  the  liverymen,  assist  their  master,  or  their  master’s 
guests  to  transfer  baggage,  all  the  while  conscious  of  the  admiring  glances  cast 
upon  them  by  groups  of  pretty  Indian  girls,  who  are  there,  as  everybody  else 
is,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  train  come  in,  and  catching,  at  the  same  time, 
a glimpse  of  these  youths  in  embroidered  suits  and  gaily  tinseled  sombreros. 
Your  anticipation  of  seeing  a city  extremely  primitive  is  not  realized  at  the 
station.  You  stand  under  the  shelter  of  a modern  stone  station,  with  its  smooth 
grass  plat,  roses,  green  trees  and  graveled  walks,  and  watch  the  scene  before 
you,  then  glance  beyond  the  throng,  down  the  track  over  which  you  just  passed, 
to  see  the  substantial  freight  depots  of  the  big  stores  and  smelters,  each  one 
of  which  has  its  own  private  depot  and  side-track  for  handling  freight,  and 
wonder  why  they  called  Durango  “primitive.” 

It  was  a matter  of  small  wonder  that  the  ancient  city  of  Jerusalem  should 
be  so  long  without  railroad  communication  with  the  outer  worlds  and  the 
completion  of  the  line  from  Joppa  was  only  the  talk  of  a day,  but  a city  more 
than  three  hundred  years  old,  and  with  nearly  a hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
on  this  continent,  and  with  a main  line  of  railroad  within  a hundred  and  fifty 
miles  of  it,  secured  its  first  railroad  since  Jerusalem  did.  It  was  left  to  Durango 
to  be  the  last  of  the  great  cities  of  Mexico  to  have  a railway,  and  it  is  still 
such  a novelty  in  that  city  that  the  populace  wait  at  the  station  for  the  arrival 
of  the  train  in  the  late  afternoon,  and  come  down  early  in  the  morning  to 
see  it  pull  out. 

It  is  to  see  this  new,  old  city  that  attracts  a journey  down  the  line  of  the 
International  Railway  of  Mexico;  this,  and  to  see  the  newest  primitiveness 


293 


of  Mexican  city  life  before  the  women  exchange  their  lace  mantillas  for  Paris- 
ian bonnets,  and  the  men  strip  the  silver  bangles  from  their  trousers  and  change 
the  ornamental,  monogrammed  sombrero  for  the  silk  tile. 

From  Durango  northward  a branch  line  extends  to  Tepehuanes,  traversing 
a rich  mining  region  and  through  some  fertile  valleys,  with  an  ultimate  exten- 
sion to  Guanacevi. 

Eastward  over  the  luteroceaiiic. — Leaving  the  City  of  Mexico  from  the 
handsome  station  of  San  Lazaro,  the  trains  of  the  Interoceanic  Railroad  pass 
through  the  eastern  outskirts  of  the  city  and  come  to  the  field  of  practice  of  the 
artillery  school,  with  its  adobe  targets  on  the  left  of  the  track,  and  run  along 
an  ancient  causeway  that  was  once  the  high  road  between  the  capital  of  the 
Montezumas  and  the  great 
city  of  the  Tezcucans.  On 
both  sides  of  the  track, 
and  very  close  to  it,  are 
tall  trees  that  make  a 
shaded  avenue  for  some 
miles,  and  such  an  avenue 
is  on  the  roadway  of  no 
other  line  on  earth.  Look- 
ing back  from  the  rear 
platform,  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  branches  almost  meet 
above  the  cars,  and  down 
the  long  vista  seem  to  close 
the  entrance  where  the 
train  came  in.  On  the 
right  are  the  plains  and 
marshes  extending  to  Ix- 
tapalapa.  La  Estrella  and 
Pehon,  and  to  the  extinct 
volcano  of  Ajusco,  to  be 
seen  in  the  distance.  On 
the  left  is  Lake  Texcoco; 
on  the' right,  the  waters  and 
marshes  of  Xochimilco  and 
Chaleo.  Turning  around 
the  southern  shore  of  Lake 
Texcoco,  the  road  comes  to 
Los  Reyes,  the  junction  of  jalapa. 

the  Morelos  Division  with  the  main  line,  a picturesque  Indian  town,  where  the 
people  bring  fish  to  the  trains  to  sell  to  the  passengers  as  something  out  of  the 
ordinary  of  train  and  station  peddlers  in  Mexico,  or,  perhaps,  anywhere  else. 
Skirting  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  the  road  enters  a fertile  plain,  where  there 
are  haciendas,  villages  and  churches  without  number.  At  the  station  of  Chapingo 
is  the  hacienda  of  the  late  ex-President,  General  Gonzales,  on  the  north  of 
the  track  a group  of  gorgeously  painted  houses,  bearing  an  oriental  look  of 
towers  and  bright  colors;  on  the  right,  almost  opposite  the  hacienda  of  Cha- 
pingo, is  the  village  of  Huixotla,  with  an  old  church  and  older  ruins  of  Aztec 
origin.  Texcoco  is  the  town  that  in  the  old  Toltec  days  was  the  rival  of 
Tenochtitlan,  or  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  the  capital  of  a powerful  nation. 
At  Texcoco  Cortez  stopped  to  prepare  his  bergantines,  with  which  to  transport 
his  army  over  the  waters  of  the  lake.  Tetzconcinco,  or  the  “laughing  hill,”  the 
favorite  resort  of  Net;zahualcoyotl,  the  Tezcucan  chief,  three  miles  east  of  Tex- 


294 


coco,  may  be  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  right,  and  near  it  the  trees  that 
overshadow  the  Molino  de  Flores,  and  a little  farther  on  is  the  aqueduct  of  the 
waters  for  these  gardens  and  palaces  of  the  chiefs  of  the  olden  times. 

The  course  is  almost  due  north  for  some  miles,  to  make  a circuit  of  th,e  foot- 
hills of  the  great  volcanoes  that  are  always  in  the  view.  At  the  little  station 
of  San  Antonio,  and  between  there  and  Metepec,  there  is  a fine  view  of  the 
Texcoco  Valley,  the  lake,  and  beyond  it  the  City  of  Mexico,  forty  miles  away; 
and  also  from  the  north  windows,  beyond  Metepec,  in  the  distance,  are  the 
pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon,  which  are  older,  perhaps,  than  Cheops  of 
Egypt. 

At  Otumba,  Cortez  met  the  army  of  the  Aztecs  in  1520,  and  drove  them  in 
retreat  before  him.  At  Irolo  are  two  branch  roads  to  Pachuca,  and  at  San 


OLD  SPANISH  FORT  NEAR  PEROTE. 

Lorenzo  a branch  to  San  Nicolas;  for  some  miles  the  road  runs  through  the 
pulque  region,  then  starts  on  an  up-grade,  reaching  an  altitude  of  9,000  feet 
near  Nanacamilca,  and  then  down  on  the  other  side,  through  a most  pictur- 
esque district,  passing  along  the  mountain  sides,  through  canons,  and  down  to 
the  depths  of  the  barranca,  with  constantly  changing  scenes  in  every  turn  and 
curve,  till  it  comes  to  the  lovely  valley  of  San  Martin  Texmelucan,  with  its 
streams  of  clear,  sparkling  water,  shady  woodlands,  and  scenes  of  prosperity. 

Passing  San  Martin  and  Analco,  the  line  enters  the  great  plain  and  valley 
of  Puebla,  one  of  the  richest  in  all  Mexico;  the  great  haciendas  here  and  there 
and  everywhere  are  in  evidence  of  its  wealth.  At  Los  Arcos  is  the  junction  of 
the  branch  road  to  Matamoros.  On  the  right  is  Cholula,  the  greatest  of  the 
Mexican  pyramids;  hence  the  road  runs  across  the  plain  to  Puebla.  Leaving 
Puebla  the  road  skirts  the  eastern  slope  of  great  Malintzi,  and  at  certain  points 


295 


there  is  a striking  resemblance  in  the  outline  of  the  rocky  crest  to  a giant  face; 
and  here  also  is  a view  to  be  enjoyed  perhaps  nowhere  else  in  the  world,  the 
road  running  through  a semi-tropical  valley  in  sight  of  four  snow-capped  moun- 
tains— Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl  to  the  west,  Malintzi  in  the  foreground, 
and  Orizaba  far  to  the  east.  It  is  a fact  that,  in  all  the  miles  of  all  the 
divisions  of  the  Interoceanic  road,  with  scarcely  an  exception  of  half  an  hour’s 
run,  there  is  a snow-capped 
mountain  always  in  the  view. 

The  route  is  now  to  the  north- 
east, crossing  the  Mexican 
Railway  at  San  Marcos,  and 
coming  to  a well-watered 
plain  that  is  just  on  the  verge 
of  the  terrace  that  drops  down 
to  the  hot  lands.  At  Virreyes 
is  a branch  road  to  San  Juan 
de  los  Llanos  and  the  junction 
of  the  Tecolutla  division  now 
completed  to  Tezutlan.  On 
the  right  of  the  road,  near  Pe- 
rote,  is  the  old  castle  of  Pe- 
rote,  an  ancient  fortress  built 
by  the  Spaniards  soon  after 
the  conquest,  as  a stopping 
place  for  rest,  after  the  long 
pull  up  the  mountain.  Here 
was  kept  a large  garrison  of 
soldiers  that  patroled  the  road 
between  Vera  Cruz  and  Pu- 
ebla in  the  old  bandit  da}^s. 

Las  Vigas  is  on  the  very  edge 
of  the  great  terrace.  If  there 
is  no  mist  in  the  valley,  the 
view  is  grandly  magnificent ; 
or,  you  may  look  out  over  a 
sea  of  white  clouds  with  the  in  - 
describable sensation  of  travel- 
ing by  rail  above  them  and 
through  their  filmy  folds. 

The  track  is  through  an  end- 
less lava  bed  that  is  a confused 
mass  of  black  rock,  from  a 
pebble  to  huge  pieces  of  the 
weight  of  tons.  It  was  a 
marvelous  piece  of  engineering 
in  the  building  of  this  road 
and  every  crook  and  turn  of  its  track  seems  to  show  greater  difficulties  over- 
come. At  no  place  is  the  grade  more  than  two  and  a half  feet  to  the  lOO,  which 
is  remarkable,  when  the  face  of  the  country  traversed  is  considered.  The  views 
are  marvelous  and  beyond  compare.  There  is  the  chalk-faced  Cofre  de  Perote, 
white  capped  Orizaba,  and  the  lesser  hills  sloping  away  to  the  Gulf,  the  waters 
of  which,  the  ships  and  the  white  houses  of  Vera  Cruz  are  a hundred  miles 
away.  It  is  a continual  drop  down  till  the  train  stops  in  the  region  of  the  full 
tropics,  at  the  picturesque  station  of  the  ancient  town  of  Jalapa,  and  thence  the 
grade  is  still  downward  to  Vera  Cruz. 


A COUNTRY  HOME. 


296 


Between  Palmar  and  Colorado  is  a beautiful  piece  of  railroad  work,  in  the 
famous  Huarumbo  cutting,  the  deepest  cut  in  Mexico,  where  the  line  makes 
almost  a complete  loop.  Near  Rinconada  is  a sugar-loaf  mountain,  Cerro 
Gordo,  where  one  of  the  hardest  fights  of  the  American  war  was  fought, 
it  is  a wonderful  track  along  here.  There  are  a hundred  horse-shoe  curves.  At 
one  place  the  track  you  are  to  pass  over  seems  a thousand  feet  below  you, 
the  white  rock  of  the  ballast  showing  through  the  verdure  of  the  intervening 
trees.  Sometimes  it  is  hard  to  tell  whether  that  is  the  track  just  passed  over 
or  the  one  you  are  coming  to.  In  one  view  there  is  a perfect  replica  of  the 
Hudson  palisades. 

Down  at  San  Francisco  the  thatched  houses  of  the  tropics  are  shaded  by 
feathery  palm  trees,  and  the  straggling  villages  seem  to  have  their  residences 
designed  chiefly  for  ventilation,  with  the  walls  of  reeds  and  the  roofs  of  palm 
leaves.  Numberless  streams  from  the  mountains  flowing  to  the  sea  are  crossed 
here  and  there,  and  at  La  Antigua  the  river  of  the  same  name  is  passed  on 
a steel  bridge,  near  the  place  of  a landing  constructed  by  Cortez,  where  there 
are  some  old  cannon  accredited  to  the  conqueror,  and  near  by  some  tombs  and 
an  old  church,  bearing  date  of  1526.  In  the  approach  to  Vera  Cruz  all  beauty  is 
left  behind,  and  but  for  the  rolling  surf  of  the  sea,  here  might  be  the  entrance 
to  the  desert  of  Sahara,  where  the  sand  blows  in  drifts  like  the  beautiful  snow, 
and  where  real  snow  fences  are  necessary  to  keep  the  sand  from  burying  the 
tracks.  But  there  is  only  a mile  or  two  of  this,  and  it  is  not  to  be  remembered 
with  all  the  grand  beauties  of  the  hills  behind  us. 

The  Morelos  Division  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway  leaves  the  main  line 
eleven  miles  out  of  the  City  of  Mexico  at  Los  Reyes  and  runs  southwest. 
The  first  station  of  importance  is  Ayotla,  where,  like  Los  Reyes,  the  inhab- 
itants bring  fish  to  the  trains  to  sell.  The  old  adobe  town  on  the  right  of  the 
track,  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  is  a very  pretty  one. 

After  passing  Ayotla  the  road  makes  a turn  around  the  lake,  and  the  vol- 
canoes come  to  view  and  are  in  sight  through  all  the  journey,  seen  first  from 
the  left  windows,  but  as  the  track  curves  about  are  seen  from  either  side. 

La  Compafiia  is  a very  pretty  little  village,  where  there  is  horse-car  con- 
nection on  the  left  for  Tlalmanalco,  and  on  the  right,  along  a shaded  roadway, 
to  Chaleo,  a city  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  whose  towers  and  domes  can  be 
seen  for  some  distance  as  the  train  moves  southward.  Next  is  the  village 
of  Cuatlenchan,  on  a hill  on  the  left  side;  the  church  on  the  top  of  the  hill  is 
seen  up  and  down  the  road  for  several  miles. 

Amecameca  is  the  stopping  place  for  the  pilgrims  bound  for  the  craters  of 
Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl.  The  train  rounds  the  hill  and  stops  right  at  the 
base  of  Sacro  Monte,  the  sacred  mountain,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  shrines 
in  all  Mexico.  Look  from  the  windows  on  the  right,  or,  while  the  train  waits, 
step  on  the  platform  for  a good  view  of  the  stone  stairway,  almost  hidden 
by  a dense  grove  of  trees.  The  city  lies  spread  out  on  a plain  on  the  left  of 
the  track.  Tourists  who  have  no  time  for  a longer  stay,  of  do  not  continue 
to  the  end  of  the  road,  may  leave  Mexico  on  the  morning  train,  have  a few 
hours  at  Amecameca  and  return  in  the  afternoon.  The  view  from  the  Sacro 
Monte  is  superbly  magnificent.  No  nearer  view  of  the  volcanoes  is  obtainable 
unless  the  ascent  is  made,  which  requires  three  days’  time  and  is  attended  with 
much  discomfort;  but  the  adventure  of  the  ascent,  and  the  seeing  of  the 
grandest  view  in  the  world,  from  a height  of  nearly  18,000  feet,  is  worth  any 
amount  of  fatigue.  Leaving  Amecameca  the  railway  passes  through  one  of 
the  streets  of  the  town  and  crosses  the  stone  causeway  which  was  built  for 
the  pilgrim  processions,  between  the  church  and  the  shrine.  At  a point  a few 
miles  south  of  Ozumba  the  highest  elevation  of  the  road  is  reached,  there 


297 


having  been  a continuous  climb  from  the  plain  of  Mexico,  and  the  down- 
grade to  the  hot  country  is  commenced;  without  an  engine  the  train  would 
roll  to  Cuautla,  too  fast,  so  the  engine  is  retained  to  hold  it  in  check.  From 
the  station  at  Nepantla  there  is  a magnificent  view  from  the  left  windows,  a 
view  taking  in  millions  of  acres  of  the  hot  lands  to  the  mountains,  a hundred 
miles  beyond.  For  miles  and  miles,  as  the  train  rolls  down  the  hills,  may  be 
seen,  first  from  one  side  and  then  the  other,  the  dome  and  tower  of  a church. 
The  same  church  may  be  seen  for  two  hours;  it  is  the  Church  of  San  Miguel, 
at  Atlatlahutla,  and  near  it  is  an  abandoned  monastery.  Here  again  the  tourist 


THE  OLDEST  RAILWAY  STATION  IN  THE  WORLD— CUAUTLA.  INTEROCEANIC  RAILWAY. 


finds  another  feature  of  Mexico’s  scenery  and  people,  totally  different  from  all 
the  other  travels  in  the  Republic.  The  houses  are  adobe  as  to  walls  and 
thatched  as  to  roofs;  the  broad  plains  have  curious  trees;  bands  of  Indians 
troop  from  one  town  to  another  in  curious  costumes,  marching  along  totally 
oblivious  to  the  passing  locomotive  and  approaching  civilization,  and  will  not 
give  away  to  the  latter  any  quicker  than  they  will  to  the  engine  if  they  happen 
to  be  on  the  track  when  it  comes  along.  In  fact,  it  is  hard  for  them  to 
understand  that  the  trajp  ^^nnot  ‘‘keep  to  the  right”  when  it  meets  people  in 


298 

the  road,  and  they  claim  the  right  of  way  from  the  fact  that  they  were  there 
first. 

Now  the  sugar  country  is  reached.  The  train  passes  through  a fine  haci- 
enda and  backs  into  Cuautla  on  a Y,  passing  and  crossing  an  aqueduct,  where 
the  natives  are  seen  bathing  and  washing  clothes,  comes  to  a station  that  was 
once  a church. 

The  train  stops  some  minutes  at  Cuautla  and  there  may  be  time  for  a walk 
through  the  little  alameda,  just  outside  of  the  station,  where  there  are  trees 
and  flowers,  a hotel  where  there  are  good  wines,  coffee  and  lunches  to  be 
had.  As  the  approach  to  the  station  has  been  through  a grove  of  tropical  trees 
and  gardens,  so  is  its  departure,  and  the  train  continues  southward  through 
the  cane  country  to  Yautepec;  the  distant  mountains  enrich  the  scene,  making 
a blue  background  to  a lovely  tropical  picture  that  extends  down  to  Jojutla  and 
thence  to  Puente  de  Ixtla,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Cuernavaca  division 
of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway.  Near  Puente  de  Ixtla  are  the  famous  caves  of 
Cacahuamilpa. 

South  over  the  Natioual — The  murky,  muddy,  misnamed  Rio  Grande 
does  not  improve  as  it  grows  and  goes  on  to  the  sea;  it  is  the  same  insignifi- 
cant little  creek  here,  as  everywhere  else  that  a railroad  crosses  it,  and  the 
country  of  the  first  hundred  miles  of  Mexico  equally  unattractive  in  chaparral 
and  cactus-covered  plains.  This  desolation  continues  only  to  the  Salado  River, 
at  Lampazos,  where  the  mountains  begin.  On  the  right  of  the  track,  south  of 
the  station,  is  La  Mesa  de  los  Cartujanos,  a mountain  with  a perfectly  level 
top,  2,cco  feet  above  the  plain.  A narrow  path,  not  wider  than  is  necessary  for 
a man  and  a mule,  leads  up  the  rugged  side  to  the  wooded  and  watered  table 
at  the  top,  where  once  was  the  home  of  a tribe  of  Indians,  the  Cartujanos, 
so  called  from  an  ancient  Benedictine  mission,  established  there  two  hundred 
years  ago,  who,  strangely  enough,  found  wood  and  water  on  the  summit,  when 
there  was  none  on  the  plain.  The  route  of  the  railway  is  southwesterly,  fol- 
lowing what  was  first  an  Indian  trail,  then  the  King’s  highway,  and,  in  later 
days,  the  line  of  march  of  the  American  armies,  as  they  proceeded  on  an  inva- 
sion that  their  greatest  general  has  pronounced  the  most  unholy  and  unjust 
war  ever  waged  by  a stronger  on  a weaker  nation.  The  track  crosses  and 
recrosses  the  old  road  many  times,  passing  Bustamente,  Villaldama  and  Palo 
Blanco.  From  Villaldama  a branch  extends  to  the  Guadalupe  mines.  The 
mountains  are  growing  and  closing  m nearer  the  road,  until  the  Saddle  Moun- 
tain and  the  Mountain  of  the  Mitres  are  in  view.  These  overlook  the  valley 
of  Monterey,  a perfectly  lovely  valley,  with  high  hills  on  every  side.  At  Mon- 
terey is  the  junction  of  the  Monterey  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Ry.,  the  Mex- 
ican International  and  tramway  lines  for  Topo  Chico  Hot  Springs.  The  National 
has  a disconnected  branch  that  may  some  time  tap  the  main  line  at  Monterey — 
it  now  runs  from  Matamoros  near  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande  northward 
seventy-five  miles  to  San  Miguel.  South  from  Monterey  the  road  runs  across 
the  plain  and  enters  the  San  Juan  Valley,  which  grows  narrower  and  nar- 
rower, till  it  becomes  a canon,  and  the  views  interesting  in  their  beauty  and 
grandeur.  Eight  miles  from  Monterey  is  the  village  of  Santa  Catarina,  with 
high  mountains  on  either  side.  On  the  left,  about  two  miles  across  the  valley, 
high  up  near  the  top,  is  a hole  directly  through  the  crest,  as  if  made  by  a mon- 
ster cannon  shot,  and  near  Garcia  are  some  caves,  not  seen  from  the  cars,  but 
objects  of  excursions  from  Monterey.  After  some  miles  of  winding  about,  first 
on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other  of  the  noisy  little  San  Juan  River,  the  valley 
closes  to  the  narrow  precipitous  cliffs  of  a canon,  and  the  road  comes  to  the 
table-land,  and  at  Ramos  Arispe  an  interesting  village  and  hacienda  is  seen  on 
the  right. 


299 


The  wider  valley  continues  on  to  Saltillo,  running  through  fertile  fields  and 
gardens,  till  after  the  city  is  passed,  the  road  enters  a more  barren  district.  Five 
miles  south,  on  the  left,  the  track  runs  near  to  the  battlefield  of  Buena  Vista. 
At  Saltillo  connection  is  made  with  the  Coahuila  & Zacatecas  Railway,  running 
southwest  to  Concepcion  del  Oro,  seventy-eight  miles,  and  the  Coahuila  & Pa- 
cific Railway  westward  to  Torreon. 

It  is  an  up-grade  to  Carneros,  and,  just  beyond,  on  the  right,  is  the  little 
pueblo  of  Gomez  Farias,  once  the  home  of  a band  of  bandits.  It  is  a roll 
from  here  down  to  the  plains,  passing  the  unimportant  stations  of  La  Ventura 
and  El  Salado.  At  Vanegas  is  the  junction  of  the  Vanegas,  Cedral  & Rio  Verde 


Railroad  to  the  silver  reduction  works  of  Cedral  and  Matehuala,  running  also 
within  a mile  of  the  Real  de  Catorce,  that  formerly  were  reached  only  by 
burros  from  the  station  of  Catorce,  twenty  miles  farther  on.  At  Catorce  the 
narrow  mountain  path  can  be  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  left.  It  starts 
up  the  mountain  from  the  little  village  just  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  almost  hidden 
by  green  trees.  Catorce  is  the  last  stop  in  the  Temperate  Zone,  the  Tropic  of 
Cancer  being  crossed  just  before  arrival  at  the  station  of  La  Maroma.  The 
spot  is  marked  by  a pyramid,  seen  on  the  right  of  the  track.  The  route  now  is 
across  an  unbroken  plain,  the  long  stretch  of  track  being  without  a curve; 
there  are  deflections  here  and  there,  but  no  curves  for  nearly  a hundred  miles. 
There  are  no  cuts  or  fills,  and,  if  danger  of  derailment  were  the  only  considera- 
tion, trains  might  make  a speed  of  a hundred  miles  an  hour. 

From  Catorce  the  ride  is  still  over  what  seems  an  almost  endless  plain, 


300 


until  the  train  reaches  Bocas,  where  there  is  something  to  see  from  both  sides 
of  the  cars;  on  the  left  a beautiful  hacienda,  looking  like  a walled  fortress,  but 
outside  the  walls  are  some  tropical  gardens,  all  lovely  with  bright  flowers.  On 
the  right,  almost  hidden  by  the  trees,  are  two  white  church-like  towers.  This 
place,  the  property  of  the  family  Farias,  is  one  of  the  finest  haciendas  in 
Mexico;  it  is  worth  a million  of  dollars.  It  is  the  first  really  fine  hacienda 
seen  on  this  route.  Nearly  a thousand  people  are  employed  here;  nearer  the 
track  is  a manufactory  of  mescal  and  tequila. 

After  leaving  Bocas  the  road  enters  the  hills  again,  and  some  pretty  views 
are  presented,  but  what  most  interests  the  tourists  is  the  approach  to  the  city 
of  San  Luis  Potosi.  The  first  view  is  from  windows  on  the  right,  and  after 
passing  through  some  fertile  fields  and  some  miles  of  gardens,  with  adobe  walls 
inclosing  semi-tropic  fruits  and  vegetables,  the  towers  of  the  old-time  town 
are  in  full  view  against  a low  line  of  hills  to  the  westward,  and  when  the 
train  comes  to  the  station  one  concludes  it  is  a gala  day  in  town,  as  if  the  entire 
population,  resolved  into  a committee  of  reception,  had  come  to  the  station  to 
meet  some  distinguished  guest.  Leaving  San  Luis  Potosi  sta- 
tion, the  view  is  from  the  west  windows — the  two  tall  towers  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  city  are  those  of  the  Church  of  Our 
Lady  of  Guadalupe;  going  southward,  the  road  enters  the  rich 
agricultural  belt  of  Central  Mexico.  The  country  becomes 
more  broken  and  interesting,  and  as  valley  after  valley  is 
passed,  it  is  apparent  that  the  soil  is  here  extremely  produc- 
tive. The  population  becomes  more  dense,  and  the  vegeta- 
tion  increases  in  luxuriance.  Villa  Reyes  is  passed, 
with  the  immense  hacienda  of  Jaral,  which,  during  the 
■ revolution  of  i8io,  furnished  a full  regiment  of  cavalry 
to  assist  the  royalists  against  the  armies  of  the  patriots. 
The  hacienda  once  controlled  20,000  peons.  Before  ar- 
, riving  at  San  Felipe  a deep  barranca  is  crossed, 
spanned  by  a viaduct  noticeable  for  its  height  and 
the  engineering  skill  displayed  in  its  construction. 
San  Felipe  is  a town  of  some  6,000  inhabitants,  and  is 

situated  in  the  center  of  a rich  farming  country. 

Dolores  Hidalgo  was  given  its  surname  in  honor  of  the 
patriot,  Hidalgo,  the  Washington  of  Mexico,  who  here  sounded  the  watchword 
of  liberty  which  fired  the  Mexican  heart,  and  roused  the  whole  country  to  arms 
to  repel  the  power  of  Spain.  This  is  a quaint  old  town  of  several  thousand  in- 
habitants. It  has  a fine  plaza,  and  interesting  churches,  and  the  traveler  is 
shown  many  relics  of  the  Cura  Hidalgo,  which  are  here  preserved  in  the  old 
house  which  he  occupied.  The  approach  to  San  Miguel  is  from  the  northeast. 
The  city  is  picturesquely  located  on  the  south  side  of  the  track,  and  the  view 
from  the  left  side  of  the  cars  is  a beautiful  one.  The  city  is  a mile  away,  but 
is  spread  out  on  the  side  of  a great  hill,  so  that  it  cannot  be  hid. 

After  San  Miguel  the  road  comes  to  the  Canon  de  la  Laja.  The  best  view 
is  from  the  windows  of  the  cars  on  the  right,  the  waters  of  a little  river 
sparkling  under  the  trees  hundreds  of  feet  below  the  track.  Across  the  canon 

the  hills  rise  up  high,  shutting  off  the  early  afternoon  sun;  and  just  at  a turn 

of  the  canon,  on  a jutting  point  of  the  mountain,  is  a cross  that  staiids  out 
against  the  sky,  as  if  it  was  painted  there.  Down  in  the  valley,  here  and  there, 
are  clusters  of  adobe  houses,  with  quaint  little  churches,  making  the  queerest 
little  villages  imaginable;  some  of  them  are  very  near  the  track  on  the  right 
side,  so  close  that  the  flying  tourist  has  glimpses  of  Mexican  backyard  life.  The 
houses  are  almost  hidden  from  view  by  trees  and  vines,  among  which 


301 


are  some  oranges,  lemons  and  bananas.  There  are  some  wonderful  views  all 
through  the  canon,  making  it  a most  interesting  portion  of  the  journey.  After 
leaving  the  canon  the  road  enters  a semi-tropical  region,  passes  the  enter- 
prising village  and  factories  of  Soria,  seen  from  the  west  windows,  and  if  the 
train  would  stop  long  enough,  a walk  through  the  purely  Mexican  town  of 
San  Juan  de  las  Vegas  would  be  amply  repaid.  The  streets  are  hedged  with 
giant  cacti,  fifteen  and  twenty  feet  high;  behind,  there  are  the  adobe  houses  of 
the  inhabitants,  almost  hidden  by  a luxuriant  foliage  of  banana  leaves  and 
vines.  There  are  forests  and  orange  and  lemon  trees  and  some  coffee  trees. 
The  people  are  purely  Mexican,  with  not  even  a half-bred  Spanish  exception. 
At  Gonzalez  the  trunk  line  of  the  National  Railway  of  Mexico  leads  southeast- 
ward through  Queretaro,  San  Juan  del  Rio  and  El  Salto  to  the  City  of  Mexico 
through  a country  fertile  and  replete  with  attractive  scenery. 

The  old  route  to  the  Capital  is  through  a rich  agricultural  region  to  and  be- 
yond Celaya,  which  city  is  on  the  right,  and  for  miles  the  domes  of  the  churches 
and  flat-topped  houses  may  be  seen,  with  a high  mountain  for  a blue  back- 
ground. The  National  crosses  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  at  Celaya,  and, 
having  left  the  valley  of  the  Laja,  crosses  a broken  country  to  the  valley  of  the 
Lerma,  the  longest  river  in  Mexico,  which  the  road  crosses  after  passing 
Salvatierra,  where  there  are  some  extensive  woolen  mills.  At  Acambaro  is 
the  junction  of  the  Western  Division  of  the  National  Railway  with  the 
main  line.  The  city  . lies  on  the  right  of  the  road,  on  a plain  al- 
most hidden  by  trees  and  at  the  base  of  a high  mountain.  If  for  any  reason 


the  train  should  stop  long  enough  at  Acambaro,  a walk  up  town  will  repay. 
Leaving  this  station,  the  route  runs  more  to  the  southeast,  but  follows  the 
Lerma  Valley,  often  running  along  its  banks,  sometimes  near  the  water,  and 
again  high  on  the  cliffs  of  a canon. 

Maravatio  is  a pretty  little  city  on  the  right  of  the  track,  about  forty  miles 
from  Acambaro.  A look  from  the  windows  shows  the  tower  of  an  old  church 
above  the  trees,  beyond  which  are  the  low-built  houses.  The  country  now 
alternates  between  the  finest  agricultural  lands  and  grazing  plains,  with  some 
barren  hills  intervening.  The  Canon  of  the  Zopolite,  through  which  the  road 
passes,  presents  some  of  the  finest  views  of  wild  scenery.  Just  before  the 
canon  is  reached,  on  the  left  is  shown  a high  cliff  from  which  Juan  Medina, 
a noted  brigand,  leaped  his  horse  to  the  death  of  both  horse  and  rider,  to 
escape  the  latter’s  capture  by  the  pursuing  soldiers.  After  leaving  the  canon 
the  road  winds  about  on  the  barren  hills  in  such  bends  and  curves  that  the 
track  parallels  itself  two  or  three  times,  and  looking  from  either  side,  that 
part  of  the  road  passed  a quarter  of  an  hour  ago,  or  to  be  gone  over  fifteen 
minutes  hence,  may  be  seen  two  or  three  hundred  yards  away.  Along  here  a 
seat  on  the  left  of  the  train  is  best.  ’Way  across  the  valley  is  a village,  down 
by  the  river  Lerma,  almost  hidden  by  the  trees,  only  the  white  belfry  of  the 
church  rising  above  them.  This  village  is  not  out  of  sight  for  nearly  an  hour. 


302 


The  seat  on  the  left  is  best  for  views  of  the  canon,  and  if  a careful  lookout  is 
kept,  the  snow-capped  crater  of  the  volcano  of  Toluca  may  be  seen,  the 
first  glimpse  about  the  hundred-and-fortieth  kilometre  post,  and  it  may  be  seen 
again  and  again,  as  the  train  reaches  the  top  of  the  grades.  Coming  down 
into  the  valley  of  Toluca  the  view  is  best  from  the  right  side,  where  it  seems 
to  rise  higher  and  higher  above  all  the  hills,  as  the  road  runs  nearer  to  its  base. 

The  city  of  Toluca  is  in  the  midst  of  a wide,  level  plain,  a table-land,  dotted 
here  and  there  with  haciendas,  showing  evidence  of  great  prosperity.  The  view 
of  the  city  is  from  the  right  side  of  the  cars.  Going  east  from  the  city  the  route 
runs  through  the  finest  agricultural  district,  and  along  the  broad  highway  that 
was  once  a paved  road,  with  massive  stone  bridges,  crosses  the  Lerma  again, 
and  comes  to  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Madres  and  commences  the  climb  up  its 
steep  sides.  Looking  back  new,  see  the  cities  of  the  plain — Toluca  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  the  once  “great  city  of  Lerma,”  the  home  of  the  brigands,  now  a 
mere  village.  Passing  the  suburbs  of  the  town  of  Ocoyocac,  the  road  winds 
up  the  mountain  side  till  it  is  a thousand  feet  above  it,  when,  looking  down 
on  the  red-tiled  roofs,  it  looks  like  a toy  town  of  playhouses.  The  view  from 


the  right-hand  windows  and  the  rear  platform  is  grand  beyond  description;  as 
the  train  crawls  slowly  up  the  steep  grades  the  panorama  spreads  out  wider, 
and  the  white-capped  volcano  seems  to  follow  in  the  wake,  till  the  view  is 
lost  behind  the  trees.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  the  river,  like  a silver 
ribbon;  beyond,  the  green  and  fertile  valley,  dotted  here  and  there  with  a 
hacienda  or  hamlet;  in  the  far  distance  the  snow-topped  mountain,  and,  nestling 
at  its  foot,  the  white  walls  and  warm,  red-tiled  roofs  of  Toluca.  A few  more 
turns,  and  the  fair  view  is  shut  out,  skyward;  now,  along  the  cliffs  of  another 
canon,  the  train  approaches  the  summit.  At  Salazar,  built  on  a plain  near  the 
summit,  the  train  halts  for  some  ten  minutes.  The  air  is  found  to  have  become 
sharp  at  an  altitude  of  nearly  10,000  feet.  Leaving  Salazar,  the  train  continues 
the  ascent  to  La  Cima.  The  station  of  La  Cima  is  directly  on  the  divide;  the 
waters  flowing  east  go  to  the  lake,  on  the  Plain  of  Mexico;  those  flowing  west 
go  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  stream  that  rushes  down  the  west  side  of  the 
mountain,  alongside  of  the  track,  is  the  headwaters  of  the  River  Lerma. 

From  this  station  the  descent  of  the  eastern  slope  begins,  and  the  glorious 
beauty  of  the  noble  Valley  of  Mexico  commences  to  unfold.  Through  gaps 


303 


in  the  mountain  wall  you  may  catch  fleeting  views  in  the  panorama,  until 
finally  it  bursts  like  a vision  full  upon  the  sight;  the  glittering  towers  and 
domes  of  Mexico  in  the  middle  distance;  a little  farther,  and  to  the  left,  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  waters  of  the  lakes  gleaming  in  the  sunlight  like  burnished 
silver;  beyond,  and  overshadowing  all,  raising  their  snow-crowned  heads  far 
above,  a coronal  of  rainbow-tinted  clouds  wreathing  them  about,  stand,  in 
majestic  beauty,  like  guardians  watching  mutely  over  the  scene,  the  giants  of 
the  valley,  Ixtaccihuatl  and  Popocatepetl.  Could  they  but  speak,  what  a his- 
tory they  might  unfold — the  building  up  of  cities  and  their  throwing  down; 
what  opulence  of  power,  what  cruelty,  crime  and  bloodshed.  Races  have  come 
and  gone;  majestic  monuments,  raised  by  the  hand  of  man,  have  crumbled 
into  dust  and  are  forgotten.  They  alone  remain  immutable,  the  hand  of  time 
dealing  with  them  but  lightly. 

Passing  down  the  east  side  of  the  backbone  of  the  continent,  in  crooks  and 
turns,  through  the  tunnel  of  San  Martin,  the  train  rolls  rapidly  along  the 
side  of  the  Monte  de  las  Cruces,  called  so  from  the  innumerable  crosses  erected 
over  the  graves  of  highwaymen  and  their  victims;  here  on  this  mountain 


Hidalgo  fought  a battle  with  the  Royalists  and  might  have  marched  on  the 
capital,  but  chose  to  retreat,  and  here  was  the  turning  point  in  his  fortunes 
that  cost  him  his  life.  After  crossing  a curved  bridge  over  the  Dos  Rios, 
nearly  a hundred  feet  high,  the  road  comes  down  into  the  Hondo  Valley.  The 
village  with  the  church,  on  the  hill  on  the  right,  was  the  home  of  a band  of 
robbers  for  many  years.  Just  after  passing  the  station  there  is  shown,  on 
the  left  side,  an  immense  meteoric  stone,  or,  ‘'the  stone  that  fell  from  the 
moon,”  as  the  natives  call  it. 

The  ride  between  Toluca  and  the  City  of  Mexico  should  by  all  means  be 
made  in  daylight,  as  here  are  some  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world. 

Now  the  City  of  Mexico  is  at  hand,  and  with  a few  more  turns  the  towers 
and  domes  are  in  the  view.  As  the  train  rolls  down  the  Valley  of  Los  Reme- 
dios,  the  sanctuary  is  seen  on  the  hill  to  the  left;  Chapultepec  on  the  right, 
and  the  town  of  Tacuba  on  the  left.  Again,  on  the  left,  the  Church  of  San 
Esteban,  near  the  tree  of  Noche  Triste,  and  then  the  fine  passenger  station,  in 
the  City  of  Mexico. 


304 


Westward  from  Acambaro. — As  the  train  circles  the  town,  the  view  is  a 
very  pretty  one.  Still  passing  through  the  fertile  farming  lands  the  journey 
grows  more  interesting  with  every  mile,  interspersing  rich  haciendas  with 
scenery  wild  and  weird,  and  after  making  a quick  turn  from  between  some 
hills  comes  suddenly  in  view  of  Lake  Cuitseo.  Circling  round  through  the 
marsh  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  where  there  are  some  salt  works,  the  train  comes 
up  to,  and  runs  along  the  lake  shore.  The  view  is  from  the  north  side.  It  is 
a fine  body  of  water,  but  very  shallow,  with  mountain  islands  rising  up  from 
the  water  in  every  direction.  One  of  these  is  inhabited  by  a tribe  of  Indians 
who  have  no  dealings  with  the  outside  world.  On  a little  island  of  a few  acres 
they  have  a little  world  of  their  own,  where  a hardy,  healthy  band  of  contented 
people  seem  entirely  oblivious  to  all  beyond  the  shores  of  their  lake.  The 
men  are  strong,  sturdy  fellows,  who  go  about  the  lakes  in  long  canoes  and 
take,  with  a pole-net,  the  little  white  minnow-like  fish  on  which  they  subsist; 
dried  in  the  sun,  they  are  ready  to  be  eaten.  The  women  are  fine  specimens, 
looking  as  if  they  might  be  warriors  too,  if  their  little  island  was  attacked,  but 
seem  happy  in  the  little  thatched  huts  that  are  their  homes.  The  waters  are 
covered  with  thousands  of  water  fowl  of  all  kinds,  and  there  is  excellent 
shooting. 

Near  Querendaro,  just  beyond  the  station  on  the  lake  shore,  on  the  right, 
see  the  columns  of  steam  rising  from  the  marshes.  These  are  springs  of  hot 
water,  hot  enough  to  boil  an  egg  hard  in  a few  moments.  In  the  thick  brush 
near  the  track  the  Indians  have  made  bathing-pools  and  come  here  to  bathe, 
and  the  fame  of  the  cures  is  great.  On  the  bushes  and  sticking  in  the  ground 
around  the  pools  are  hundreds  of  little  crosses,  made  by  two  sticks  tied  to- 
gether, left  there  by  grateful  patients  who  have  been  cured  of  their  ills  by  the 
waters.  The  ground  all  about  the  springs  seems  to  be  a mere  crust,  sounds 
hollow,  and  sinks  under  the  weight  of  a person  walking  near  the  springs. 
There  is  a strong  smell  of  sulphur,  and  whether  this  is  only  an  upper  crust  of 
his  Satanic  majesty’s  domain  may  be  surmised. 

From  Lake  Cuitseo  to  Morelia  the  route  crooks  and  turns  through  fertile 
lands,  passing  fine  haciendas  and  pretty  villages,  crossing  valleys  where  per- 
petual running  streams  keep  the  fields  and  gardens  green  from  summer  to  win- 
ter and  winter  to  summer.  When  the  reaping  of  one  crop  is  accomplished 
another  is  planted,  and  large  yields  of  corn,  wheat  and  barley  are  made. 

From  the  right  side  of  the  cars  a “saddle”  mountain  is  seen  all  the  way  from 
Lake  Cuitseo.  It  lies  just  north  of  the  suburbs  of  Morelia,  and  is  a landmark 
showing  the  location  of  that  city. 

The  tops  of  the  towers  in  the  city  of  Morelia  may  be  seen  rising  above  the 
low  intervening  hills,  while  the  train  is  yet  some  miles  away.  The  city  is  on 
the  left  of  the  track,  but  a seat  on  the  right  is  best.  The  track  runs  along  the 
river  bank  for  a mile  or  two,  and  there  are  hundreds  of  Indian  women  wash- 
ing clothes.  These  with  their  children,  and  the  men  waiting  to  let  their  wives 
carry  the  laundry  home,  make  an  interesting  scene. 

The  ride  from  the  city  to  the  western  terminus  of  the  Mexican  National 
at  Patzcuaro,  is  picturesque  to  a degree.  From  the  left  windows  you  see  the 
Cuincho  waterfall,  where  there  are  also  some  hot  springs  with  water  at  a tem- 
perature sometimes  reaching  a hundred  degrees. 

The  first  view  of  Lake  Patzcuaro  is  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the  cars, 
and  after  making  some  curves  on  the  hillside  high  above  the  barranca,  the  train 
comes  down  to  the  shore  of  the  lake,  where  there  is  a hacienda  hotel  near 
the  station. 

The  city  of  Patzcuaro  is  two  miles  from  the  station,  located  high  on  the 
hills,  from  whence  is  a view  of  exceeding  beauty.  Miles  of  the  lake,  dotted 


305 


with  its  dozens  of  islands,  and  the  valley  with  nearly  fifty  towns  and  their  white- 
domed  churches,  illustrate  a lovely  panorama. 

Westward  from  Patzcuaro  the  line  extends  to  Uruapam,  a primitive  Mexi- 
can town  that  is  not  like  any  other;  here  is  the  center  of  a fertile  fruit  district 
and  the  finest  coffee  country  on  the  west  slope. 

The  Mexican  Northern  Railway  runs  northeast  from  Escalon,  on  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway,  to  the  Sierra  Mojada  mining  district,  forty  miles. 

The  Rio  Grande,  Sierra  Madre  & Pacific  Railway  starts  at  Ciudad 
Juarez,  opposite  El  Paso,  and  runs  southwesterly  to  Terrazas,  155  miles,  with 
an  ultimate  destination  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

The  Yaqui  gold  fields  are  reached  by  the  ‘‘Corralitos”  road,  as  it  is  called. 


SIERRA  MOJADA,  MEXICAN  NORTHERN  RAILWAY. 

The  mineral  belt  extending  along  this  road,  both  east  and  west,  from  San  Bias 
to  Casas  Grandes,  is  extraordinarily  rich  in  the  ores  of  silver,  copper,  lead  and 
gold.  Many  mines  in  this  territory  have  been  worked  for  centuries,  by  the 
Spaniards,  then  by  Mexicans  and  Indians,  and  are  now  being  worked  by 
Americans.  It  is  only  recently,  however,  that  placer  gold  and  marvelously  rich 
gold  veins  have  been  known  to  exist  in  this  section.  The  climate  is  delightful. 
Great  palm  trees,  thirty  to  fifty  feet  high,  grow  green  in  the  canon  of  the  Rio 
de  Aros  and  southward,  and  flowers  bloom  there  in  January  while  the  Can- 
delaria peaks  are  perhaps  covered  with  snow.  It  is  a mile  straight  down,  one  to 
the  other,  but  the  linear  distance  may  be  covered  in  three  hours  or  less.  The 


306 


train  leaves  El  Paso  at  a convenient  hour  in  the  morning,  and  arrives  at  Casas 
Grandes  early  in  the  afternoon. 

The  Coahuila  Sc  Pacific  Ry,  extends  from  Saltillo  on  the  National  to 
Torreon  on  the  Central,  passing  through  the  wine  regions  of  Parras  and  an 
otherwise  fertile  district. 

The  Tocahuila  & Zacatecas  Railway  runs  southwest  from  Saltillo  on  the 
Mexican  National  to  Concepcion  del  Oro,  seventy-eight  miles. 

South  over  the  Southern.— Through  the  south  of  Mexico,  from  Puebla 
to  Oaxaca,  runs  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad,  with  an  ultimate  destination 
at  Tehuantepec,  or  at  the  deep  water  harbor  of  Salina  Cruz,  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  The  road  penetrates  the  rich  regions  of  one  of  the  richest  sections  of 
the  Republic,  a territory  with  a wealth  of  timber  and  mineral  resources  in 
the  mountain  districts,  and  illimitable  beds  of  marble  and  onyx.  In  the  low- 
land valleys  cane  and  coffee  grow  with  wildest  luxuriance,  and  all  the  fruits 
of  the  tropics  are  found  in  the  fields  of  the  haciendas  along  the  line. 

The  products  of  the  contiguous  territory  must  contribute  to  a local  traffic 
that  will  enter  largely  into  increased  earnings  as  mines  and  quarries  are  opened, 
and  when  all  the  sugar  and  coffee  lands  are  put  under  cultivation,  while  the 
route  of  the  road  is  geographically  in  the  line  that  must  be  taken  by  the 
“backbone  railroad”  from  North  to  South  America,  and  while  that  plan  is 
being  promoted,  this  section  is  already  built  and  operated,  and  in  the  near 
future  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad  will  offer  the  shortest  route,  for  through 
business,  from  the  interior  of  the  two  Republics,  to  the  west  coast  of  Central 
and  South  America. 

Unlike  any  other  railroad  in  Mexico,  the  Southern  does  not  run  high  on  the 
table-lands,  and  along  the  mountain  sides,  but  follows  the  valleys,  and,  from  a 
scenic  point  of  view,  offers  an  innovation  to  the  travelers  of  other  lines  that 
have  looked  down  on  the  valleys  below  the  tracks,  till  they  came  here  to  travel 
through  the  valleys,  and  through  one  canon  and  barranca  after  another,  look- 
ing up  to  the  overhanging  cliffs  and  towering  peaks  that  close  in  about  the 
roadway  till  it  seems  there  is  hardly  room  to  pass  between  them.  Here  are 
the  ever-running  rivers  to  complete  the  innovation  from  the  dry,  rocky  beds 

of  the  rainy-season  rivers  of  other  sections. 
The  route  of  these  rivers  is  the  route  of  the 
road,  and  the  two  are  companions,  hardly  out 
of  sight  of  each  other  for  many  miles.  Leav- 
ing Puebla  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad 
runs  almost  due  east,  parallel  with  the  line  of 
the  Interoceanic  Railway,  across  the  plain  as  far 
as  Amozoc;  at  Amozoc  the  people  make  the 
enormous  spurs  affected  by  the  Mexican  horse- 
men, and  other  fine  saddlery  hardware;  spurs 
and  toy  flat  irons  are  brought  to  the  passing 
trains  and  sold  as  souvenirs.  This  should  be 
called  the  Valley  of  Churches.  Look  where 
you  will,  the  tiled  domes  rise  above  j;he  plain. 

They  are  in  the  villages,  north,  east, 
south  and  west,  and  every  hacienda 
has  one  of  its  own — picturesque  to 
a degree,  with  the  polished  tiles  of 
many  colors,  as  in  the  Puebla  Val- 
ley and  around  Cholula.  Looking 
backward,  as  the  train  leaves  the 
handsome  station  in  Puebla,  there 


307 


is  a view  of  the  city,  the  forts  of  the  surrounding  hills,  and  beyond  them,  to  the 
westward,  the  pyramid  of  Cholula ; further,  high  against  the  western  sky,  the 
Volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl ; and,  to  the  northward,  old  Malintzi, 
and  the  Cerro  del  Tecolote;  then,  a little  to  the  east  of  north,  the  sharp,  white 

peak  of  Orizaba,  rising 
above  the  hill  of  Ama- 
luca.  Is  there  a view  like 
this,  anywhere,  that  may 
be  seen  from  the  windows 
of  a passenger  car? 
Where? 

It  is  a slightly  ascend- 
ing grade  from  Puebla, 
with  an  altitude  of  7,093 
feet  to  Amozoc,  at  7,295 
feet  above  the  sea,  and 
after  leaving  that  station 
it  is  as  constantly  descend- 
ing, for  more  than  a hun- 
dred and  thirty-five  miles, 
to  Quiotepec,  and  then  it 
is  up  hill  to  Las  Sedas, 
and,  again,  down  hill  to 
Oaxaca.  Of  course  there 
are  ups  and  downs  of 
track,  but  the  average  as- 
cents and  descents  are  as 
mentioned.  After  Amozoc 
the  first  town  of  impor- 
tance is  Tepeaca,  on  the 
left  of  the  track,  with  the 
towers  of  a grand  old 
church,  high  above  the 
houses  and  the  trees  sur- 
rounding it.  The  station 
of  Rosendo  Marquez  was 
named  for  a prominent 
Mexican  and  former  Gov- 
ernor of  the  State  of 
Puebla. 

Tecamach?ico  is  a pic- 
turesque old  town,  lying 
on  a hill  to  the  north  of 
the  track.  The  road  from 
it  to  the  town  skirts  the 
hill  above  the  intervening 
little  valley,  or,  we  may 
call  it  a street,  since  it 
leads  from  the  others  of 
the  town,  that  wind  about 
among  the  adobe  houses.  The  picture  is  not  exactly  like  any  other  in  Mexico. 
Around  Las  Animas  the  prickly-pear  does  not  grow,  or,  at  least,  not  as 


MITLA— THE  YOUNG  AND  THE  OLD. 


308 


much  as  elsewhere.  Here  it  is  the  “organo,”  the  full-grown  plant  greatly 
resembling  the  pipes  of  the  church  organ,  and  it  is  most  aptly  named.  Here 
also  is  that  variety  from  which  the  ixtle  fibre  is  taken.  It  is  a succession  of 
rich  valleys  and  nature’s  great  terraces,  the  table-lands,  that  the  road  passes 
through  along  here,  dropping  from  one  to  the  other,  by  gradual  descent,  that 
is  shown  by  the  easy  running  of  the  train,  and  a rising  temperature.  Passing 
the  stations  of  Tlalcotepec  and  Carnero,  the  important  city  of  Tehuacan  is 
next  on  the  line.  The  station  at  Tehuacan  and  the  city  are  on  the  east  side 
of  the  track.  It  is  a very  pretty  little  city,  its  streets,  with  a row  of  trees 
through  the  center,  running  at  right  angles,  and  passing  through  pretty  plazas, 
where  there  are  other  over-hanging  trees,  growing  with  a tropic  luxuriance. 
It  is  the  “Street  of  Democracy”  that  leads  from  the  station  to  the  Plaza 


PARISH  CHURCH,  OAXACA. 

Mayor.  The  low-walled  houses  on  either  side  have  their  patios^  filled  with 
flowers,  and  on  the  outer  walls  curiously  curled  brackets  hold  the  old-fash- 
ioned street  lamps.  On  one  side  of  the  plaza  is  the  principal  church  of 
the  place,  on  another  the  portales,  on  the  others  stores  and  residences.  In 
the  center,  in  the  dense  shade  of  the  trees,  is  a handsome  music  stand,  em- 
bowered in  flowers.  The  outer  walks  of  the  plaza  are  paved  with  stone. 
There  are  seats  on  either  side,  and  on  other  walks  leading  in  and  out  among 
the  trees  and  flowers.  Near  the  plaza  is  a curious  old  market,  and  a more 
curious  old  convent-looking  church  with  a garden  behind  the  high  walls 
surrounding  it.  Opposite  the  market  is  the  College  of  Arts,  and  near  by  an 
abandoned  church,  now  used  as  a barrack  for  a company  of  rurales. 

Tehuacan  is  on  the  ridge  of  a great  water  shed  from  which  flow  the  rivers 


309 


to  the  Gulf  and  to  the  Pacific,  and  in  the  center  of  a rich  agricultural  dis- 
trict. It  is  the  market  for  the  surrounding  villages  and  haciendas.  This  rich 
valley  tempted  the  building  of  a tramway  from  Esperanza  on  the  Mexican 
Railway,  but  it  was  wholly  inadequate  to  the  traffic,  and  since  the  building 
of  the  Southern  road  there  has  been  a largely  increased  trade. 

After  leaving  Tehuacan,  the  view  from  the  windows  on  the  left  is  full  of 
interest.  The  city’s  white  walls  and  towers  gleam  through  and  over  the 
trees.  The  plain  spreads  away  to  the  mountains  beyond,  and  not  far  away 
they  break  off  in  great  cliffs  of  rocks  some  hundreds  of  feet  high,  that  are 
in  the  view  for  miles  and  miles.  As  the  track  curves  about  the  plain,  the 
picture  is  constantly  changing  in  shapes  and  colors,  for  the  rocks  are  stained 
in  all  the  colors  by  the  oozings  through  of  the  metals  of  the  earth  coursing 
down  the  cliff,  that  seem  cut  in  huge  columns,  as  might  have  been  in  some 
prehistoric  battlements  of  an  ancient  fortress.  Here  also,  just  below  the  city, 
is  a castle-like  monastery  on  a pyramid  near  a high-walled  panteon.  The 
monastery  may  have  extracted  its  Pompeiian  colors  from  the  cliffs  just  be- 
yond, that  are  so  full  of  color.  Pass- 
ing down  the  plain,  southeasterly, 
the  track  runs  near  a 
little  stream  that  grows 
larger  as  it  winds  in 


and  out  among  the  hills.  The  stations  on  this  table-land  are  La  Huerta, 
Santa  Cruz,  Pantzingo,  Nopala  and  Venta  Salada.  Near  Pantzingo  is  one 
of  the  most  curious  freaks  of  irrigation  engineering,  the  water  from  springs  in 
the  upper  terrace  is  brought  to  the  edge  and  falls  in  little  cascades  to  the 
fields  below.  Seen  from  the  windows  on  the  west  side.  Near  San  An- 
tonio the  road  enters  the  Canon  del  Rio  Salado,  which  is  but  the 
beginning  of  the  great  Canon  de  los  Cues,  through  which  it  runs 
to  the  town  of  Tecomavaca.  The  scenery  through  this  canon  is  grandly 
picturesque,  resembling  that  of  the  great  Marshall  Pass  in  Colo- 
rado, the  track  running  at  the  bottom  of  the  canon,  right  along  the 
banks  of  a rushing,  roaring  river.  The  mountains  are  lifted  up  thousands 
of  feet,  in  peaks  and  crags,  that  the  storms  have  cut  into  fantastic  shapes. 
Their  walled  sides  drop  perpendicularly  to  the  water’s  edge,  and  close  in 
upon  the  river  and  the  road  till  the  passenger  doubts,  in  his  mind,  how  either 
will  find  the  way  out,  till  the  train  dashes  through  a little  tunnel,  that  is  only 
a wink  of  darkness,  and  the  river  tumbles  over  some  high  rocks,  at  the  point 
of  the  rocks,  and  runs  alongside  again.  Here  is  a curious  freak  of  the 
scenery;  we  have  been  riding  along  a stream  whose  waters  run  to  the  south, 
the  train  passes  through  a cutting,  across  a bridge,  and  comes  to  the  river 
again,  but  the  waters  are  running  to  the  north.  There  are  two  rivers;  the 
one  running  south  is  the  Rio  Salado,  the  other,  the  Rio  Grande.  They  come 


310 


together  behind  a hill,  close  by,  and  form  the  Rio  Quiotepec  which  is  the  head 
water  of  the  Rio  Papaloapan.  And  here  at  Quiotepec  is  the  lowest  point  on 
the  line,  the  altitude  being  only  1,768  feet  above  the  sea;  the  ascending 
grade  commences,  and  it  is  almost  a steady  climb  through  the  Canon  of 
Tomellin,  along  the  river  bank,  still  with  high  towering  mountains  on  either 
side.  Ihe  station  at  Cuicatlan  is  in  the  midst  of  tropical  verdure.  There 
is  little  of  the  village  in  view  at  the  station,  but,  just  alter  leaving  it,  a look 
back  will  show  the  picturesque  little  town  on  the  hill  above  the  track. 

At  Tomellin  the  river  is  crossed  and  left  behind,  and  the  train  now  begins 
to  ascend  the  valley  of  its  tributary,  the  Tomellin  or  Rio  de  San  Antonio. 
The  scenery  of  Tomellin  is  picturesque.  The  little  river  is  very  pretty,  the 
green  trees  invite  to  cooling  shades,  bright  plumaged  birds  chatter  in  the 
branches,  but  beyond  all  this,  Tomellin  is  to  be  remembered — Tomellin  is 
the  dinner  station.  And  such  a dinner!  Appreciated  perhaps  all  the  more, 
because  so  absolutely  unexpected  in  this  far-away  country;  for  this  it  may 
be  remembered,  yet  more  than  all  for  the  very  excellence  of  it.  It  could  be 
a model  for  very  many  dinner  stations  some  thousands  of  miles  nearer  home. 
If  you  dine  at  Tomellin,  you’ll  not  forget  or  regret  it,  and  perhaps  you  will 
want  to  carry  some  of  the  dinner  along  for  supper.  As  this  is  written  in 
1904  it  is  hoped  that  “Dick,”  the  Chinaman,  may  live  the  century  through 
and  the  next  one  too,  and  that  this  paragraph  may  never  have  to  be  changed. 

Hence,  for  some  miles,  it  is  an  up-hill  ride  through  the  canon  still,  with 
scenery  wild  and  weird  on  either  side  of  the  road,  passing  the  stations  of 
Almoloyas,  Santa  Catarina,  Parian,  arriving  at  the  summit  at  Las  Sedas, 
where  there  is  one  of  the  grandest  views  of  all  the  grand  views  of  this  scenic 
line.  From  the  windows  on  the  right  the  panorama  extends  far  down  the 
valley,  and  across  it  to  the  far-away  pictures  among  the  mountains,  range 
after  range  rising  one  above  the  other,  the  deep  blue  of  the  nearer  ones 
fading  a little  to  those  just  beyond,  and  fading  again  till  they  seem  to  blend 
into  the  sky,  the  sun  tingeing  each  with  a different  hue,  and  on  the  range 
near  by,  marking  the  white  line  of  a mountain  road  that  crosses  to  the  val- 
leys on  the  other  side. 

The  grade  is  downward,  and  it  is  only  a roll  down  past  Huitzo  to  Etla, 
a pretty  little  village  on  a hill  eastward  from  the  road,  showing  picturesquely 
from  the  windov.^s  on  the  left.  Etla  is  a town  of  fiestas,  to  which  the  pil  ■ 
grims  come  from  far  and  near,  as  they  do  to  Amecameca  and  Guadalupe, 
and  scarcely  in  fewer  numbers.  The  old  church  is  on  the  very  top  of  the 
hill,  fronting  the  pretty  little  plaza,  where  the  fiestas  are  held,  and  back  of 
it  is  a very  ancient  aqueduct  of  high  arches  extending  into  the  mountains, 
bringing  a supply  of  fresh  water  to  the  village.  It  is  a wide,  open  country 
that  the  road  runs  through,  the  rich  valleys  extending  to  the  hills  on  both 
sides,  dotted  here  and  there  with  haciendas,  that,  with  their  great  houses, 
granaries  and  churches,  are  villages  in  themselves,  and  remind  one  of  the 
principalities  we  have  read  of  in  the  old  feudal  ages.  Across  the  valley,  to 
the  west,  the  mountain  breaks  off  in  palisades;  on  the  east  it  slopes  to  blue 
mountains.  Thus  the  ride  is,  with  much  to  see  from  either  side,  or  back  to 
the  hills  just  climbed  over.  There  has  not  been  a moment  of  monotony  in 
all  the  journey,  at  the  end  of  which  there  are  anticipations  of  newer  nov- 
elties in  this,  to  us,  hitherto  unseen  city,  and  while  we  are  only  leaving  the 
little  town  of  Etla,  and  its  outlying  haciendas,  just  down  the  valley  there 
are  the  towers  of  Oaxaca. 

South  over  the  Cueruavaca  Divisiou  Mexicau  Ceutral — The  route  is  not 
over  the  old  diligencia  road  across  the  Plain  of  Mexico,  but  over  one  equally 
as  attractive,  and  while  the  style  of  travel  may  not  be  as  antiquely  pictur- 


311 


esque  as  on  the  rumbling,  dust-covered  diligencia,  the  scenery  is  equally 
as  fine,  and  there  is  a deal  more  of  comfort. 

Trains  leave  from  the  Buena  Vista  .station  of  the  Mexican  Central  Rail- 
way, in  the  City  of  Mexico,  circling  the  western  suburbs,  running  through 
the  grounds  of  the  Agricultural  school,  Nextitla,  Tacuba,  San  Juanico,  and 
Santa  Julia,  a flag  station.  This  place  will  be  an  important  one.  It  was  a 
regular  hacienda  before,  and  the  owners  have  fractioned  the  grounds  and 
sold  them  in  lots.  The  “Colegio  Salesiano”  is  now  in  construction.  This 
Catholic  institution  is  devoted  to  poor  boys,  and  is  supported  by  charity  of 
Mexican  families.  It  is  provided  with  shops  of  all  kinds.  After  leaving  Santa 
Julia  the  road  crosses,  in  a straight  angle,  the  main  line  of  the  Mexican  Na- 
tional Railroad,  and  reaches  the  Morales  flour  mill,  after  which  it  runs  through 
the  grounds  of  “Molino  del  Rey,”  the  Mexican  Government’s  arm  factory, 
in  the  surroundings  of  which  the  battle  with  the  United  States  army  took 
place  in  1847.  There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  defenses  built  by  the 
Mexican  army.  On  the  left-hand  side,  and  about  half  a mile  from  the  track, 
is  the  magnificent  castle  of  Chapultepec,  with  its  great  groves  and  architectural 
solidity.  It  was  the  ancient  dwelling  of  Aztec  kings,  and  the  present  resi- 
dence of  the  President  of  the  Republic.  From  this  place  on,  the  splendid 
views  of  the  Valley 
of  Mexico  begin  to 
develop,  until  the 
heights  of  Ajusco 
are  reached.  The 
next  point  of  interest 
is  Tacubaya.  It  has 
a population  of 
about  20,000,  and  is 
the  most  important 
suburban  town  of 
Mex  i c o , where 
wealthy  men  from 
the  city  have  built 
magnificent  houses 
and  gardens  for 
their  summer  re- 
sorts. From  the  sta- 
tion of  Tacubaya  there  is  a small  branch  to  the  Valdes  and  Santo  Domingo 
flour  mills.  These  mills  use  the  waters  supplying  Tacubaya  and  the  City  of 
Mexico  as  motive  power. 

Mixcoac  is  a small  town,  but  an  important  one  of  the  valley,  on  account 
of  its  topographical  situation,  healthful  climate,  and  abundant  water.  The 
principal  industry  of  the  natives  is  the  cultivation  of  flowers,  a great  number 
of  them  being  taken  to  the  City  of  Mexico  for  daily  sale.  Mixcoac,  as  well 
as  Tacubaya,  is  connected  with  the  city  by  this  road,  by  the  Valley  Railway, 
and  horse  cars. 

At  500  metres  from  the  station  the  road  passes  by  the  door  of  ''Hacienda 
de  la  Castaneda,”  a place  of  amusement,  with  large  gardens.  Balls  as  well 
as  other  amusements  take  place  every  Sunday. 

El  Olivar  is  the  residence  of  the  Catholic  clergy.  Near  the  station 
there  is  another  flour  mill,  and  several  factories  of  cotton  goods  and  paper. 
The  line  runs  through  the  small  town  of  San  Geronimo,  devoted  to  the 
cultivation  of  fruit,  especially  strawberries.  It  is  remarkable  to  see  the  work 
the  natives  have  done  in  order  to  adapt  these  grounds  for  cultivation,  as 


312 


all  has  been  formed  within  dry  walls  and  filled  with  vegetable  earth,  hauled 
from  long  distances.  The  town  is  well  supplied  with  water  for  irrigation. 
A little  further  on  the  road  passes  the  “Lomas  de  Padierna,”  where  a battle 
with  the  United  States  army  took  place.  Near  the  track  there  is  a small 
monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  fell  in  that  battle.  In 
making  the  grading  works  some  pieces  of  uniforms  with  buttons  of  the 
two  armies  were  discovered. 

Contreras  is  the  oldest  factory  of  cotton  goods  established  in  the  Valley 
of  Mexico.  The  greater  part  of  the  people  from  the  town  of  La  Magdalena 
are  employed  here.  The  factory  is  moved  by  the  water  of  La  Canada  River, 
and  is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  a long  and  narrow  canon.  Ever  since  the 
road  was  completed  foreigners  have  chosen  this  place  for  Sunday  excursions. 
The  Canada  Canon  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  the  Republic.  Its  vege- 


HACIENDA  AT  MITLA. 

tation  is  tropical,  notwithstanding  the  elevation,  and  in  winter,  when  the  vege- 
tation of  the  valley  is  dead,  that  of  the  Canada  is  as  exuberant  as  that  of  the 
tierra  caliente. 

After  leaving  Contreras  the  road  passes  through  the  lands  of  San  Nicolas, 
arriving  at  the  flag  station  of  Eslava,  situated  on  one  side  of  the  hacienda 
of  the  same  name.  A mile  beyond  the  road  enters  on  a tract  thickly  cov- 
ered with  volcanic  stone,  thrown  away  a long  time  since  by  the  volcano  of 
Ajusco.  The  grounds  have  a very  original  aspect.  It  has  not  been  neces- 
sary to  make  any  works  for  letting  rain  water  run  out.  The  ground  is  so 
porous  that  all  the  water  filters  in,  and  afterwards  appears  at  the  bottom  of 
the  mountains  in  a dozen  crystal  springs. 

Near  the  40-kilometre  post  it  was  necessary  to  make  two  big  cuts,  and 
one  of  the  biggest  fills  in  the  country.  To  give  an  idea  of  its  magnitude,  it 
13  enough  to  say  that  it  may  be  seen  distinctly  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  and 


313 


for  its  construction  it  was  necessary  to  remove  an  amount  of  material  ex- 
ceeding 90,000  cubic  metres.  From  this  point  may  be  clearly  seen  the  Valley 
of  Mexico  in  the  whole  extension,  the  lakes  of  Texcoco,  Chaleo  and  Xochi- 
milco,  all  the  small  towns  of  the  valley,  and  the  volcanoes  with  their  white 
peaks.  It  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  views  of  the  road.  The  elevation  of 
this  place  is  1,657  f^^t  above  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  9,006  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  road  continues  ascending  through  the  chains  of  mountains,  and  ar- 
rives at  the  station  of  Ajusco,  at  an  elevation  of  9,318  feet.  The  sta^tion  is 
situated  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town  of  Ajusco. 

The  next  station  is  La  Cima,  the  summit,  at  an  elevation  of  9,895  feet 
above  the  sea.  This  is  the  highest  point  of  the  line.  From  this  place  the 


PATIO  OF  HACIENDA,  AT  MITLA. 

line  begins  to  descend,  passing,  at  66  kilometres,  the  dividing  line  between 
the  Federal  District  and  the  State  of  Morelos.  From  this  station  to  Cuer- 
navaca, by  straight  line,  is  thirteen  miles,  but  on  account  of  the  mountainous 
country  the  road  distance  is  thirty-eight  miles. 

Fierro  Del  Toro,  at  an  elevation  of  9,665  feet  above  the  sea,  is  sit- 
uated at  the  entrance  of  the  magnificent  forest  of  Huitzilac.  The  road  con- 
tinues on  one  side  of  the  mountains  of  Coajomulco,  through  the  town  of 
the  same  name.  Before  reaching  this  point,  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the 
productive  State  of  Morelos  may  be  seen,  with  the  city  of  Cuernavaca  and 
the  numerous  haciendas  where  they  cultivate  the  sugar  cane  and  tropical  fruits. 

After  Coajomulco,  the  line  passes  San  Juanico.  Near  this  place  there  are 
some  very  high  stone  hills,  in  the  highest  of  which  there  are  some  ruins 
called  the  “Gran  Tepoxteco.”  This  is  a remarkable  construction  on  account 


314: 


of  the  difficulties  the  Indians  must  have  had  to  take  up  the  materials  to  such 
a height,  about  600  feet  vertical.  Some  idols  are  still  to  be  seen  there.  Ac- 
cess to  the  mountains  is  very  difficult. 

At  the  lower  part  of  San  Juanico  Mountains,  and  not  very  far  from  the 
track,  the  town  of  “San  Miguel  de  la  Cal”  is  situated,  where  there  is  a de- 
posit of  natural  lime,  ready  for  use;  it  is  probably  the  only  one  of  such 
magnitude  in  the  Republic. 

From  San  Juanico  the  line  runs  to  the  west,  touching  the  towns  of  Santa 
Maria,  Chamilpa,  Ocotepec  and  Ahuatepec,  and  comes  to  the  city  of 

Cuernavaca,  capital  of  the  State,  with  a population  of  16,000  inhabitants; 
elevation  4,960  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  built  upon  a hill  between 


STREET  IN  CUERNAVACA. 

two  large  depressions  of  ground,  which  make  two  ravines  that  unite  outside 
of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  town.  From  any  of  the  culminating  points 
of  Cuernavaca  the  eye  embraces  the  territory  of  the  State  in  its  widest  ex- 
tent, its  inner  chains  as  well  as  its  mountainous  boundary.  To  the  north  is 
the  long  range  of  Ajusco  with  its  ramilications,  whose  offshoots,  known  as 
the  mountains  of  Tepoxtlan,  rise  in  fantastic  shapes,  whilst  the  snowy  peaks 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl  tower  loftily  in  the  background.  The  large 
sugar  plantations  and  plantain  farms,  with  which  the  country  is  filled,  together 
with  the  luxuriant  vegetation  surrounding  them,  reveal  the  fertility  of  the 
soil  of  this  essentially  agricultural  State,  The  town  proper  contains  more 


315 


than  500  houses,  besides  the  cottages  in  the  suburbs,  with  their  orchards 
and  gardens.  It  has  more  than  sixty  streets  and  alleys,  five  squares,  five 
churches,  the  most  important  being  the  Parish  Church,  which,  like  that  of 
Tula,  in  the  State  of  Hidalgo,  is  very  old  and  its  exterior  appearance  that 
of  a fortress.  Among  the  public  buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  old  palace 
of  Cortez,  now  occupied  by  the  State  Government,  the  Literary  Institute,  the 
Porfirio  Diaz  Theatre,  the  Hospital  and  the  Barracks;  the  Post  Office  and 
the  Telegraph  Office  are  all  that  is  modern. 

After  leaving  Cuernavaca  the  descent  of  the  Pacific  slope  continues.  The 
scenery  is  grand  beyond  description,  from  one  vantage  point  almost  the 
entire  State  of  Morelos  is  within  the  range  of  vision. 


MONTEREY  & MEXICAN  GULF  STATION,  MONTEREY. 


At  Puente  de  Ixtla  the  tracks  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway  are  connected, 
thus  forming  a circle  immediately  south  of  the  Capital  with  a wealth  of  scenic 

?randeur  not  surpassed  anywhere  in  the  world.  A trip  out  on  the  M.  C.  & 
'.  Ry.,  and  back  over  the  Interoceanic,  or  vice  versa,  is  a fine  one  that  must 
not  be  neglected  by  the  traveler.  Near  the  junction  of  the  two  roads  are 
the  famous  caverns  of  Cacapuaniilpa.  The  fine  scenery  continues  to  Iguala, 
to  where  the  road  was  completed  in  1898.  Thence  towards  Acapulco  down  to 
the  Rio  Balsas,  the  present  terminus,  the  wild  mountainous  district  renders 
the  ride  one  of  intense  interest  to  the  lover  of  the  picturesque. 

The  Michoacati  & Pacific  Division  of  the  National  Railway  of 
Mexico  runs  west  from  the  town  of  Maravatio,  on  the  Mexican  National 
Railroad  thirty-three  miles  to  Ocampo,  and  fifty-seven  miles  to  Zitacuaro. 

The  Monterey  Division  of  the  Mexican  Central  extends  from  the 
station  of  Trevino,  where  it  connects  with  the  Mexican  International  Railroad 


316 

southeast  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  at  Tampico,  crossing  the  Mexican  National 
Railroad  at  Monterey. 

South  from  Trevino  the  road  runs  for  some  distance  through  an  unin- 
teresting district,  but  the  barren  hills  and  plains  become  verdure-clad  and  there 
are  fertile  valleys  farther  south;  above  Monterey  the  picturesque  region  begins 
and  continues  to  the  lovely  valley  in  which  that  city  lies,  coming  to  it  at 
the  north  and  leaving  it  at  the  south  side. 

Approaching  Monterey  the  best  views  are  from  the  windows  on  the  west 
side,  showing  the  Mountain  of  the  Mitres  and  the  Saddle  Mountain,  on  the 
far  side  of  the  valley,  with  the  beautiful  city  at  the  base,  almost  hidden  by 
the  tall  trees,  only  the  towers  showing  above  them.  It  is  not  all  romance 
and  antiquity  at  Monterey.  In  every  view  the  more  prosaic  chimney  stack 
of  a smelter,  factory  or  brewery  stands  in  line  with  the  church  tower  of  the 
olden  days.  Monterey  has  probably  made  greater  advancement  than  any 
other  Mexican  city  as  a manufacturing  centre.  There  are  establishments  of 
almost  every  branch  of  trade,  some  of  the  most  extensive  ore  smelters  in 
the  country,  and  the  brewery  making  the  famous  Cuautemoc  beer  from  the  pure 
waters  of  the  Monterey  Valley. 

South  from  Monterey  this  direct  line  to  the  Gulf  continues  through 
a very  fertile  country,  passing  from  one  valley  to  another,  the  products  chang- 
ing with  the  climate  southward,  from  the  fruits  and  cereals  of  the  tempe- 
rate zone,  to  the  cane  and  cotton  and  tropic  fruits  of  the  tierra  caliente; 
from  the  familiar  forests  of  our  own  land  to  the  hard  woods  of  the  warmer 
countries.  The  builders  of  this  road  boast  the  use  of  ebony  for  ties;  cer- 
tainly there  are  some  now  under  the  rails  cut  within  hauling  distance  of  the 
track.  There  is  merchantable  mahogany,  rosewood  and  other  close-grained 
timber  in  demand  for  the  finer  uses  in  the  arts.  Another  of  the  products 
of  this  region  is  a beautiful  black  marble,  without  a seam  or  gleam  of  white, 
or  other  color  than  its  own  inky  blackness.  This  and  a hard  gray  stone  are 
used  in  the  company’s  handsome  stations,  at  Monterey  and  other  points 
on  the  line. 

At  San  Juan  there  is  a picnic  ground,  with  a dancing  pavilion,  in  a grove 
of  trees  near  a clear  running  stream.  On  the  right  of  the  track  is  a native 
“fonda,”  side  by  side  with  the  “Two  Republicks”  restaurant;  on  the  other 
side  some  thatched  huts,  in  queer  contrast  with  the  big  brick  kiln  near  by.  It 
is  a well  watered  country  that  this  one,  unlike  the  other  roads  of  Mexico, 
runs  through.  The  running  streams  are  seen  in  little  rivulets,  creeks  and 
rivers  of  more  pretentious  proportions  than  is  usual  in  this  country,  and 
the  prospect  is  necessarily  different  from  most  of  the  other  railway  lines. 

Montemorelos,  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  west,  is  a city  of  some 
16,000  inhabitants,  founded  in  the  year  1749,  about  which  time  the  first  church 
of  the  town  was  built.  The  only  work  of  art  is  a painting  ‘‘Pensador  Mexi- 
cano,”  by  Senor  Don  Eduardo  Lizardi.  There  are  two  Protestant  churches, 
Presbyterian  and  Baptist.  The  former  was  founded  by  Senor  Leandro  Garza 
Mora,  in  1862;  the  latter  by  Mr.  Thomas  Westrup,  in  1869. 

Linares  is  a flourishing  town  in  the  sugar  belt,  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Rio  Tigre,  sometimes  called  the  Conchas.  The  sugar  industry  of  this  sec- 
tion has  been  greatly  promoted  by  the  advent  of  the  railroad,  and  the  im- 
portation of  modern  machinery.  On  the  right,  far  across  the  plain,  is  a 
high  mountain  that  a bright,  gossipy  correspondent  has  called  the  ‘‘Sombrero,” 
and  with  great  excuse,  for  no  matter  what  its  other  name  may  be,  it  will 
be  recognized  at  once  as  a “sombrero.”  The  immense  crown  of  the  peak, 
and  wide,  spreading  brim  of  the  foothills,  are  in  sight  during  all  the  journey 
down  to  Tampico. 


317 


Victoria  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Tamaulipas,  founded  in  1750.  Its 
population  ranges  from  11,000  to  12,000.  The  altitude  of  the  town  is  1,180 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  is  located  at  the  23°  42'  54"  latitude,  and 
0°  01'  02"  longitude,  east  of  the  meridian  of  Mexico.  The  climate  is  almost 
perfect,  there  being  neither  excessive  heat  in  summer,  nor  are  the  winters 
in  any  degree  severe.  Oranges,  limes,  bananas,  pineapples,  grapes,  and  in  fact 
all  the  tropical  products  are  grown  in  profusion  in  this  locality.  There  are 
three  churches  in  the  city,  two  Catholic  and  one  Protestant.  One  of  the  for- 
mer is  the  Cathedral;  its  construction  dates  from  the  foundation  of  the  town, 
and  is  still  in  an  unfinished  condition.  The  erection  of  the  other  was  com- 
menced at  a comparatively  recent  date,  and  of  the  more  modern  style  of 
church  architecture.  The  Protestant  church  is  a very  unpretending  place 
of  worship,  it  being  merely  a missionary  headquarters. 


CITY  AND  BAY,  GUAYMAS,  MEXICO,  SONORA  RAILWAY. 


Among  the  points  of  interest  to  the  tourist  may  be  mentioned  the  park 
“Pedro  Jose  Mendez,”  containing  many  rare  and  beautiful  plants  and  shrub- 
bery. This  lovely  resort  is  situated  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Alameda. 
The  Alameda  is  an  elegant  drive  and  promenade,  with  a row  of  fine  trees 
on  each  side,  extending  for  a distance  of  over  two  miles.  The  governor’s 
residence  and  state  house  of  representatives  is  situated  on  the  Alameda,  as 
are  also  many  beautiful  private  residences,  all  of  which  go  to  make  La  Ciu- 
dad de  Victoria  a very  attractive  place  among  the  comparatively  newer  order 
of  cities  of  Mexico. 

It  is  a descending  grade  with  long  stretches  of  level  track  across  an  open 
country,  hence  to  Tampico,  with  here  and  there  patches  of  tropic  verdure, 
outlying  groves  of  the  more  extended  forests  that  are  over  the  hills  towards 
the  coast,  and  in  the  valleys  to  the  west  of  the  road. 

The  Tampico  terminals  of  the  line  comprise  extensive  wharves  at  deep 


318 


water,  where  the  largest  ships  come  alongside.  The  freight  yards  are  ample 
and  the  track  connections  with  the  San  Luis  Potosi  division  complete. 

South  over  the  Sonora  Railway* — The  State  of  Sonora  is  noted  for 
its  great  agricultural  resources.  The  principal  staple  is  the  famous  sweet 
orange  grown  in  the  luxuriant  orchards  of  Hermosillo  and  Guaymas. 
Wheat,  corn,  beans,  alfalfa,  cotton,  sugar  cane,  tobacco  and  other  agricul- 
tural products  are  cultivated  in  great  quantities.  Wheat  is  sometimes  ex- 
ported to  England  and  to  Mexican  eastern  markets.  Flour  is  constantly  sent 
to  the  States  of  Sinaloa  and  Lower  California  and  now  to  other  Mexican 
states.  Cattle  are  numerous  in  middle  and  northern  Sonora,  are  exported  to 
Lower  California  and  to  the  United  States.  Mines  are  abundant  and  very 
rich,  and  the  mining  industry  is  well  developed  all  over  the  State.  Vast 
amounts  of  rich  silver  ore  are  taken  to  United  States  smelters. 

The  Sonora  Railway,  crossing  the  State  in  a northerly  direction  from  Guay- 
mas to  Nogales,  boasts  of  being  the  first  international  railroad  built  and 
operated  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States.  It  is  353  miles  long  and 
standard  gauge.  The  first  tie  was  laid  in  the  early  part  of  1880,  and  last 
spike  driven  in  October,  1882. 

There  are  several  periodicals  and  newspapers  published  in  Nogales,  Mag- 
dalena, Altar,  Ures,  Hermosillo,  Alamos  and  Guaymas.  “El  Trafico,”  of  Guay- 
mas is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Republic  of  Mexico  and  has  a very  wide 
circulation  at  home  and  abroad. 

The  State  of  Sonora  is  noted  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery  of  land  and  sea. 

Nogales,  with  about  3,000  inhabitants,  is  a thriving  double  town  of  the 
boundary  line,  half  of  it  lying  in  Arizona  Territory,  the  other  portion  in 
the  State  of  Sonora.  On  the  American  side  can  be  seen  several  fine  business 
houses,  hotels  and  factories,  while  on  the  other  side  there  are  some  fine 
shops,  stores  and  private  residences.  The  Mexican  Custom  House  is  an 
imposing  stone  building.  The  town  of  Nogales  is  very  enterprising,  well 
provided  with  public  schools,  and  has  water  works  and  electric  light. 

Just  south  of  Nogales  the  tourist  can  admire  the  beautiful  Casita  Canon, 
dotted  with  superb  trees  and  shrubbery,  intersected  by  several  streams  of 
clear  water  running  along  the  route  of  the  railroad. 

From  Casita  south  to  Santa  Ana  the  country  is  all  under  cultivation,  large 
farms  alternating  with  orchards  and  vegetable  gardens.  The  town  of  Mag- 
dalena, with  4,000  inhabitants,  is  quite  renowned,  it  being  the  rendezvous 
of  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  Sonora,  Chihuahua  and  Durango  in  Mexico, 
and  from  Arizona,  California  and  New  Mexico  in  the  United  States,  all  go- 
ing to  Magdalena  to  pray  to  San  Francisco’s  image,  on  the  fourth  of  Oc- 
tober every  year. 

Hermosillo,  the  capital  of  Sonora,  and  the  seat  of  the  Catholic  diocese, 
possesses  a magnificent  government  capitol,  a fine  new  cathedral,  and  a small 
but  nice  Protestant  church,  the  national  mint,  one  of  the  best  modern  flour 
mills,  a beautiful  depot  and  several  other  elegant  public  and  private  build- 
ings. The  Plaza  of  Hermosillo  is  the  largest  and  handsomest  in  Sonora. 
The  population  exceeds  10,000  people.  The  district  of  Hermosillo  is  noted 
for  its  splendid  agricultural  and  mining  surroundings,  the  railroad  crossing 
exuberant  orange  groves,  vegetable  farms  and  flower  gardens. 

Guaymas,  the  home  of  the  Sonora  Railway,  is  a city  of  over  8,000  in- 
habitants, all  very  enterprising  and  progressive.  The  foreign  element  is  quite 
important  and  of  high  standing.  Guaymas  is  a great  commercial  place  and 
the  feeder  of  Sonora,  Lower  California,  Sinaloa  and  Colima,  the  Sonora 
Railway  facilitating  the  imports  and  exports  from  and  to  the  United  States, 
Europe  and  Eastern  Mexico. 


31^ 


The  bay  of  Guaymas  is  the  best  on  the  Mexican  Pacific  coast,  and  one 
of  the  largest  in  all  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Marine  trade  is  very  important  in 
Guaymas,  and  its  bay  is  constantly  visited  by  Mexican  and  foreign  craft.  A 
marine  railway  is  being  built  and  is  nearing  completion. 

That  the  city  of  Guaymas  is  progressing  rapidly,  due  principally  to  the 
opening  of  the  Sonora  Railway,  is  shown  by  the  construction  of  a street- 
car system,  two  substantial  brick  buildings  for  public  schools,  a magnificent 
civil  hospital,  the  new  jail,  an  imposing  stone  structure,  water-works  system,  a 
very  large  bonded  warehouse,  landings  and  wharves  for  the  storage  and  trans- 
fer of  foreign  freight,  Protestant  and  Catholic  churches,  and  several  other 
buildings,  factories  and  private  residences  of  modern  style. 

During  the  winter  season — November  to  May — the  temperature  of  Guaymas 
is  unequaled  in  the  world,  well  adapted  for  the  invalid  as  well  as  for  the 
tourist  and  sportsman.  Ducks  and  other  wild  game  are  plentiful  in  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city,  and  fishing,  sailing,  boating  and  bathing  in  the  surf,  are 
the  most  enjoyable  sports  on  the  great  Guaymas  Bay.  The  Carnival  in  Guay- 
mas is  carried  out  in  grand  style  at  the  same  season  as  in  New  Orleans,  num- 
berless foreigners  visiting  the  city,  participating  in  the  processions  and  mas- 
querade balls. 

The  Tehuantepec  Railroad  runs  from  Coatzacoalcos,  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  to  Salina  Cruz,  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  about  145  miles. 

The  Hidalgo  Railroad  runs  northeastward  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to 
Pachuca,  Tulancingo  and  Zumpango. 

The  Mexican  National  Construction  Company  operates  a line  from 
Manzanillo,  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  to  Colima,  60  miles;  also  a line  from  Zaca- 
tecas to  Guadalupe  and  Ojo  Caliente,  30  miles. 

The  Vera  Cruz  & Pacific  Railway  connects  the  vast  railway  system 
of  Mexico  and  the  north  with  the  Tehuantepec  Railway  and  the  Isthmus  coun- 
try. The  route  is  through  the  heart  of  the  tropics  and  the  scenery  wildly 
picturesque. 

The  Mexican  National  Railway  line  from  Monterey  to  Matamoros, 
on  the  Gulf,  will  be  completed  by  1905. 


320 

The  United  States  of  Mexico. 

The  Republic  of  Mexico  comprises  twenty-eight  States,  one  Territory  and 
the  Federal  District  in  which  the  national  capital  is  located.  The  State  Gov- 
ernments are  very  similar  to  those  of  the  United  States,  having  a Governor, 
Legislature,  Courts,  etc.  The  following  table  is  interesting: 


Names  of  States.  Capital.  Area  in  Assessed  Population 

square  miles,  value.  ^ 


Aguas  Calientes Aguas  Calientes 

Campeche Campeche 

Coahuila Saltillo 

Colima Colima 

Chiapas Tuxtla  Guitierrez. . . 

Chihuahua Chihuahua 

Durango Durango 

Guanajuato... Guanajuato 

Guerrero Chilpancingo 

Hidalgo Pachuca 

Jalisco Guadalajara 

Mexico Toluca 

Michoacan Morelia 

Morelos Cuernavaca 

Nuevo  Leon Monterey 

Oaxaca Oaxaca 

Puebla Puebla 

Queretaro Queretaro 

San  Luis  Potcsi San  Luis  Potosi 

Sinaloa Culiacan 

Sonora Hermosillo 

Tabasco San  Juan  Bautista. 

Tamaulipas Victoria 

Tlaxcala Tlaxcala 

Vera  Cruz Jalapa 

Yucatan Merida 

Zacatecas Zacatecas 

Territory  of  Tepic Tepic 

Lower  California La  Paz 

Federal  District City  of  Mexico 


Totals 


3,080 

$ 6,272,375 

100,910 

20,760 

1,728,435 

84,218 

59,000 

7,152,345 

280,899 

2,700 

3,925,724 

65,026 

29,600 

4,722,823 

363,216 

89,200 

5,926,728 

327,004 

42,300 

7,727,327 

371,274 

12,300 

31,005,785 

1,065,317 

22,700 

2,125,000 

474,594 

7,600 

16,078,924 

603,074 

38,400 

24,023,825 

1,137,311 

8,080 

22,127,344 

924,457 

23,000 

22,728,416 

935,849 

1,850 

17,125,572 

161,697 

25,000 

11,684,323 

326,940 

28,400 

13,127,425 

947,910 

12,600 

37,127,591 

1,024,446 

3,800 

12,062,345 

228,489 

26,100 

15,123,727 

582,486 

36,100 

5,072,424 

296,109 

77,000 

7,623,121 

220,553 

10,000 

4,232,163 

158,107 

29,000 

7,828,822 

220,253 

1,500 

7,842,924 

172,217 

23,840 

26,232,716 

960,570 

28,400 

4,892,516 

312,264 

25,300 

16,989,728 

496,810 

530 

788,542 

149,677 

60,000 

4,894,733 

47,082 

450 

61,124,573 

530,723 

748,590 

$409,318,296 

13,569,482 

various 

States  there 

is  a system 

handise, 

as  well  as  a 

direct  tax 

on  real  and  personal  property. 

Each  State  is  represented  in  the  Congress  by  two  Senators,  elected  alter- 
nately every  two  years,  and  by  one  member  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  for 
each  40,000  of  population,  and  one  for  each  fraction  of  more  than  20,000. 

The  largest  State  is  Chihuahua,  since  Coahuila  was  shorn  of  that  portion 
of  the  domain  now  called  Texas.  Tlaxcala  is  the  smallest  State.  After  the  Fed- 


eral District,  Puebla  is  the  wealthiest  in  assessed  values,  with  Guanajuato  a close 
second.  The  wealth  of  the  former  is,  for  the  most  part,  in  the  silver  mines;  of 
the  latter,  in  agricultural  lands  and  onyx  quarries.  Campeche  represents  the 
smallest  amount  of  wealth.  The  Federal  District  is  to  Mexico  what  the  District 
of  Columbia  is  to  the  United  States,  wiHi  laws  administered  under  the  direction 
of  the  Federal  Government. 


321 

LOCATION,  POPULATION  AND  ALTITUDE  OF  CITIES 


Cities. 

State. 

Railway. 

Popula- 
t on. 

Alti- 

tude, 

feet. 

Pronunciation. 

8006 

6301 

Ak-/caw-baro. 

Mex.,  Cuer.  & Pac 

6000 

50 

Ak-ka-pwif-co. 

37816 

6179 

Ah- was  Cal-i-ew-tees. 

4739 

4100 

Ah-iwa^-ca. 

8180 

8571 

Ah-wt(x^-ca-  mny-csi. 

U.  Ry.  of  Yuc 

7406 

0 

Cam-pee-che. 

Mex.  Nat 

6254 

9043 

Cah-ior-see. 

Celaya 

Guanajuato .... 

.Mex.  Cen.  and  Mex.  Nat. 

25565 

5763 

Sae-li-ya,. 

30098 

4633 

CiiQ-wow-wa,. 

8192 

3717 

Tiie-oo-dcid  W<xr-Bz. 

12774 

702 

**  Po]'-yfee-rio-Dee-az. 

....  Tehuantepec  R.  R 

15('0 

15 

Ko-at-zah-co-ft7-cose. 

20698 

1601 

Co-7ee-mah, 

Mex.  Ry 

8136 

2713 

Covcl-o-\8i. 

6269 

4267 

Kwout-\Si. 

0584 

5068 

K w er-ii  &.-VCL-  ca. 

10380 

131 

Koo-le-a-  cctti. 

31092 

6207 

Doo-TCinQ-o . 

Mex.  Cen 

7680 

3723 

Go-mez  Pal- ci/i-see-o. 

101208 

50.54 

W ah-dtha-la-Tior-a. 

40580 

6837 

^V  sm-R-wcih-to. 

8648 

0 

W ah-ee-tuots. 

10613 

672 

Er-mo-seeLyo. 

7463 

2411 

E-gual-ai. 

Mex.  Cen 

19640 

5655 

Iv-vd  pwat-o. 

20388 

4608 

Ha-Zop-a. 

Mex.  Cen 

16000 

6134 

LaZi-gose. 

63263 

5855 

Lay-otcw. 

TiPi'do 

Durango 

7795 

3725 

Xaer-do. 

J.i  nn.TPS  

Nuevo  Leon. . . . 

7076 

1187 

Lee-watr-es. 

Ma.ra.vatio 

Michoacan 

6000 

6750 

Marry-va-fee-o. 

IVI  a.ta  TYini’OS  

Tamaulipas  .... 

8347 

26 

Mat-a-iwo-ros. 

IVI  ftTida 

Yucatan 

U.  Ry.  of  Yuc 

42819 

26 

Merry-dsi. 

Mexico 

Distrito  Federal 

.Mex.  Nat.  and  Mex.  Cen. 

368777 

7349 

Meh-he-co. 

1V1  it.la. 

Oa.xac.a 

300 

4000 

Meet-lsih. 

Monterey 

Nuevo  Leon 

.Mex.  Nat.  and  Mex.  Cen. 

62266 

1624 

Mon-te-ray. 

Mnrif'lnva,  

Coahuila 

Mex.  Int 

6684 

1926 

Mon-cZo-va. 

Mnrplia. 

Michoacan 

38606 

6396 

Mo-r*atZ-ya. 

Nnpvn  Tia.TPrio 

Tamaulipas  .... 

8000 

459 

Noo-eu-o  Lah-ru|/-do- 

^"laYapa  

Oa.xaca 

35049 

5071 

O-SLii-hcik-ix  h . 

Ori  y.a.La 

Vera  Cruz 

Mex.  Ry 

33539 

4028 

Ov-Ty-zah-\8i. 

ip^ipVmpa.  

Hidalgo 

........  Mex.  Cen 

37487 

8023 

Pa-c/ioo-ca. 

Chihuahua 

16382 

5701 

Par-rotZ. 

r*a  rra  s 

Coahuila 

Coah.  & Pac 

6476 

5032 

Par-ras. 

T'a.tzp.naro 

Michoacan 

7210 

7183 

PaZ2-quar-o. 

T'rnp’VPsn  

Y ucatan 

U.  Ry.  of  Yuc 

4914 

0 

Pro-gr*ess-o. 

1 *iipbla 

Puebla  

98191 

7091 

Poo-eZ)-la. 

(|)npi  ptaro 

Qu  ere  taro  

.Mex.  Cen.  and  Mex.  Nat. 

38016 

5947 

Kay-reZ-a-ro. 

Wa.la.ma.Tipa,  

Guanajuato  . . . 

Mex.  Cen 

13724 

5646 

Sal-a-tuciu-ca. 

{^a.ltillo 

Coahuila 

Mex.  Nat 

23996 

5337 

Sal-ZeeZ-yo. 

fvalvatierra 

Guanajuato .... 

11008 

5760 

Sal-va-tee-er-ra. 

8an  Juan  Bautista 

Tabasco 

10543 

51 

San  Wahn  Bah-oo-tees-tt 

ISan  Juan  del  Rio 

Queretaro  . . 

• Mex.  Cen.  and  Mex.  Nat. 

8224 

6252 

San  Wahn  deJ  Pee-o. 

San  Luis  Potosi 

San  Luis  Potosi 

.Mex.  Cen.  and  Mex.  Nat. 

60858 

6121 

San  Poo-is  Pu-tu  see. 

San  Miguel  de  Allende. 

Giia  n a,jn  a to 

Mpx.  Nat 

12740 

6035 

San  M.e-gil  day  X\-yend~e 

S;<  vula 

.Ta.lispo 

....  Mpy.  Cen 

7888 

4474 

Sah-t/ott-.a. 

Sierra  Mojada 

Coahuila 

....  Mex.  Nor 

12840 

4749 

See-er-ia  Mo-ZiacZ-a. 

Silao 

Guanajuato 

Mpx.  Cen 

15463 

5829 

Nee-low. 

^I'ampieo  

Tamaulipas 

16313 

4 

Tam-pee-co. 

'I'ehtiacan 

Puphla, 

Mpx  So 

7395 

5497 

Tay-wah  can. 

’i'ehuanteppc 

Oaxaca.  . . 

Mex.  Nat 

10386 

33 

Tay-wan-te-pecfc 

Toluca 

Mexico 

Mex.  Nat 

25940 

8761 

To-Zoo-ca. 

Torreon 

Coa.hniln 

Mov  Cpn  .... 

13845 

3739 

Tory-o^e^^. 

'Tula 

Hidalgo. . . . 

Mpx.  Cpn  .... 

2000 

7353 

Too-]  a. 

(Jruapan  

Michoacan 

Mpx.  Nat . - - 

9859 

5576 

Oo-roo-a^y-ciii. 

Vera  Cruz  

Vera  Cruz 

Mex.  Ry 

29162 

23 

Ver-a  Krooze. 

Victoria 

Tama.ulipa.s 

Mpx.  Cpn 

10086 

1473 

Vic-Zo-i  i-a. 

2’iacatecas 

Zacatecas 

Mpx.  Cpn 

34438 

8010 

Zak-a-Za^-cas. 

2iamora  

IMiehoacan 

M ex.  Cen . . . 

12533 

5130 

Zam-o-ra. 

Zapotlan 

Jalisco 

Mex.  Cell 

17596 

4976 

Zap-ote-Zan. 

322 


THE  AQUEDUCT  AT  QUERETARO. 


STREET  CAR  LINES,  CITY  OF  MEXICO  AND  SUBURBAN  TOWNS. 


323 


Cars  Marked. 

Tacuba. 

Tacuba. 

Tacuba. 

Circuito  de  Banos . 

Santa  Maria. 

Tacubaya. 

Tacubaya. 

Tlalpam. 

Coyoacan. 

Colonia. 

Tacubaya. 

Guadalupe. 

Guerrero. 

Granada  y Avenida  Juarez. 
Yxtapalapa. 

Ixtacalco. 

La  Piedad. 

Los  Angeles. 

San  Angel. 

Nino  Perdido. 

Tacuba. 

Peralvillo  y Belem. 
Peralvillo  y Viga. 
Reforma. 

San  Angel 
Yxtapalapa. 

San  Lazaro  y Tlaxpana. 
Santa  Maria. 

Don  Toribio  y Santiago. 
Tacubaya. 

Tlalpam. 

Tlaxpana. 

Tacuba. 

Peralvillo  y Viga. 

S.  Lazaro  y S.  Rafael. 
Santa  Maria. 

Santa  Maria. 

Estacion  F.  C.  Nacional. 

Fare. 

-M 

M g CO  CO 

-tJ  © ^ ^ ^ 4i 

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rHi-HrH^  ,Hr-(  .-(r-lrH  rH  r-(  (MrH  iHCOi-ltM 

O 

Last  Car 
Starts 
to  City. 

12  20  am 
6 50  pm 

11  10  am 
8 00  pm 

12  20  am 
10  00  pm 
12  20  am 
10  00  pm 
12  40  am 
12  15  am 

6 30  pm 
12  20  am 
12  15  am 
10  20  pm 

7 40  pm 

8 20  pm 

9 30  pm 
10  25  pm 
12  40  am 
10  20  pm 

6 50  pm 
10  00  pm 
10  07  pm 
12  15  am 
12  40  am 

8 25  pm 
10  20  pm 
12  20  am 

10  20  pm 
12  25  pm 

9 00  pm 

11  20  pm 
8 50  pm 

10  45  pm 

12  00  nht 
12  00  nht 
12  00  nht 

8 30  ])m 

Running 

Time. 

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Interval 

between 

Trips. 

10  minutes 
40 

10  “ 

10  “ 

5 

30  “ 

10 

30  “ 

30  ‘‘ 

5 “ 

60  “ 

15  “ 

5 

10  “ 

80  “ 

40  “ 

40  “ 

10  “ 

20  “ 

20  “ 

40  “ 

8 “ 

7 “ 

7 “ 

20  “ 

40  “ 

10  “ 

5 “ 

5 

10 

60  “ 

15 

60  “ 

4 minutes 
10 

5 “ 

5 “ 

25  “ 

Last  Car 
from 

Plaza  Maj'or 

12  00  pm 

4 40  pm 
12  00  pm 

8 00  pm 
12  00  pm 

9 30  pm 
12  00  pm 

9 30  pm 
12  00  pm 
12  00  pm 

5 30  pm 
12  00  pm 
12  00  pm 
10  00  pm 

7 40  pm 

7 40  pm 

8 00  pm 
10  00  pm 
12  00  pm 
10  00  pm 

4 40  pm 
10  00  pm 
10  07  pm 
12  00  pm 
12  00  pm 
7 40  pm 
10  00  pm 
12  00  pm 

10  00  pm 
12  00  pm 

9 00  pm 

11  00  pm 
7 40  pm 

10  30  pm 

11  50  pm 

12  00  nht 
12  00  nht 

9 00  pm 

First  Car 
from 

Plaza  Mayor. 

5 20  am 
5 40  am 

5 20  am 

6 00  am 
6 02  am 
6 00  am 

5 30  am 

6 00  am 
6 30  am 
6 02  am 
6 30  am 

5 30  am 

6 00  am 
6 00  am 
5 00  am 

5 00  am 

6 00  am 
6 00  am 

5 35  am 

6 00  am 

5 40  am 

6 00  am 
6 07  am 
6 00  am 
5 35  am 

5 00  am 

6 00  am 
6 02  am 
6 00  am 

5 30  am 

6 00  am 
6 05  am 

5 40  am 

6 30  am 
6 30  am 
6 00  am 

6 00  am 

7 15  am 

FOR 

Agricultural  College 

American  Ceineterj^ 

Atzcapotzalco 

Baths 

Buena  Vista 

Castaneda,  La 

Chapultepec 

Churubusco  

Coyoacan  

Colonia 

Dolores 

Guadalupe 

Guerrero 

Granada  y Avenida  Juarez 

Yxtapalapa 

Ixtacalco 

La  Piedad 

Los  Angeles 

Mixcoac 

Nino  Perdido 

Panteon  E^panol 

Peralvillo  y Belem 

Peralvillo  y Viga 

Reforma 

San  Angel 

Santa  Anita 

San  Lazaro  y Tlaxjiana 

Santa  Maria 

Santiago  y Don  Toribio 

Tacubaya 

Tlalpam 

Tlaxpana 

Tlalnepantla 

TO  RAILWAY  STATIONS. 

Hidalgo  R.  R 

Interoceanic  R.  R 

Mexican  R.  R 

Mexican  Central  R.  R 

Mexican  National  R.  R 

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324 


FALLS  OF  JUANACATLAN. 


325 


326 


A PULPIT  OF  SANTA  ROSA,  OUEReVarO. 


327 


Table  of  Terms. 


NUMBERS. 


ENGLISH. 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

Seven 

Eight 

Nine 

Ten 

Eleven 

Twelve. 

Thirteen 

Fourteen 

Fifteen 

Sixteen 

Seventeen 

Eighteen 

Nineteen 

Twenty 

Twenty-one,  etc.... 

Thirty 

Forty 

Fifty 

Sixty 

Seventy 

Eighty 

Ninety 

Hundred,  a or  one.  . 

Two  hundred 

Three  hundred 

Four  hundred 

Five  hundred 

Six  hundred 

Seven  hundred 

Eight  hundred 

Nine  hundred 

Thousand,  a or  one 

Two  thousand 

Eleven  hundred 

Hundred  thousand.  . 
Million  


SPANISH. 

PRONUNCIATION. 

Uno,  una 

Oo'-no. 

Dos 

, . . . . Dose. 

Tres 

Trace. 

Cuatro 

Kwah'-tro. 

Cinco 

Seen'-ko. 

Seis 

Say'-is. 

Siete 

See-ai'-te. 

Ocho 

O'-tcho. 

Nueve 

Noo-ev'-e. 

Diez 

De-eth'. 

Once 

On'-say. 

Doce 

Do'-say. 

Trece 

Tray-ce. 

Catorce 

Kah-tor'-say. 

Quince 

Keen'-say. 

Diez  y seis 

De-eth'  e say'-is. 

Diez  y siete 

De-eth'  e see-ai'-te 

Diez  y ocho 

De-eth'  e o'-tcho. 

Diez  y nueve 

De-eth'  e noo-ev'-e 

Veinte 

Vay'-inte. 

-Veinte  y uno,  etc.  . . 

Vay'-inte  e oo'-no. 

Treinta 

Cuarenta 

Kwar-en'-tah. 

Cincuenta 

Seen-kwen'-tah. 

Sesenta 

•Setenta. 

Say-ten'-tah. 

Ochenta 

Noventa 

No-ven'-tah. 

Ciento 

. ..  . .See-en'-to. 

.Doscientos 

Trescientos 

Tray-see-en'-tosc. 

Cuatroc.ientos 

. . . Kwah-tro-see-en'-tose. 

Quinientos 

Ke-ne-en'-tose. 

Seiscientos 

Sai-is-see-en'-tosc. 

Setecientos 

Sai-tay-see-en'-tcse. 

Ochocientos 

Novecientos 

No-vay-see-en'-tose 

.Mil 

.Dos  mil 

Mil  ciento 

Cien  mil 

See-en'  meek 

Un  millon 

328 


ORDINAL  NUMBERS. 


ENGLISH.  SPANISH. 

First Primero 

Second Segundo 

Third Tercero 

Fourth Cuarto 

Fifth Quinto 

Sixth Sexto 

Seventh Septimo 

Eighth Octavo 

Ninth Noveno,  or  nono 

Tenth Decimo 

MONTHS. 

ENGLISH.  SPANISH. 

January Enero 

Eebruary E ebrero 

March Marzo 

April Abril 

May Mayo 

June Junio 

July Julio 

August Agosto 

September Setiembre 

October Octubre 

November Noviembre 

December Diciembre 


PRONUNCIATION. 

.Prim-mer'-ro. 

Say-goon'-do. 

Ter-sere'-o. 

Kwar'-to. 

Keen'-to. 

Seks'-to. 

Sep'-te-mo. 

Ok-tah'-vo. 

No-vay'-no. 

Day'-see-mo. 


PRONUNCIATION. 

Eh-ner'-ro. 

Eeh-brer'-ro. 

Mar'-zo. 

Ah-breek. 

Mah'-yo. 

Hoo'-ne-o. 

Hoo'-le-o. 

Ah-go'-sto. 

Sell— te-em'-bray. 
Ok-too'-bray. 
No-ve-em'-bray. 
De-the-em'-bray. 


ENGLISH. 

Monday.  . . 
Tuesday.  . . 
W ednesday 
Thursday.  . 

Friday 

Saturday.  . . 
Sunday.  . . . 


DAYS  OF  THE  WEEK. 

SPANISH. 

Lunes 

Martes 

Miercoles 

Jueves 

Viernes 

Sabado 

Domingo 


PRONUNCIATION. 

Loo'-nes. 

Mar'-tes. 

Me-er'-ko-les. 

Ptu-er-es. 

Ve-ere'-nes. 

Sah'-bah-do. 

Do-meen'-go. 


ENGLISH. 

Day 

Morning 

Noon 

Afternoon 

Evening 

Night 

Midnight 

Yesterday 

The  day  before  yesterday 

To-day 

To-morrow. 


TIME. 

SPANISH.  PRONUNCIATION. 

Dia De-ah'. 

Manana Man-yah'-nah. 

Medio  dia May'-deo  de'-ah. 

Tarde Tar'-day. 

Tardecita Tar'-day-see'-tah. 

Noche No'-tchay. 

.Media  noche May'-de-ah  no'-tchay. 

Ayer Ah-yere'. 

Antes  de  ayer An'-tays  day'  ah-yere', 

Hoy Oy. 

Manana Man-yah'-nah. 


329 


The  day  after  to-morrow.  . Pasada  manana Pa-sah'-da  man-yah'-nah. 

The  night  before  last...  Antes  de  anoche An'-tays  day  ah-no'-tchay. 

Last  night Anoche Ah-no'-tchay. 

Last  week La  semana  pasada Lah  say-mah'-nah  pa-sah'- 

dah. 

Last  month El  mes  pasado El  mace  pa-sah'-do. 

Last  year El  ano  pasado El  ahn'-yo  pa-sah'-do. 

Year .Ano Ahn'-yo. 

Month Mes Mace. 

Week Semana Say-mah'-nah. 

An  hour Una  hora Oon'-ah  oh'-rah. 

Half  an  hour Media  hora May'-de-ah  oh'-rah. 

Quarter  of  an  hour Un  cuarto  de  hora Oon  kwar'-to  day  oh'-rah. 

What  day  of  the  month  is 

it?  6 Que  dia  es  hoy? Kay  de'-ah  es  oy? 

Hour Hora O'-rah. 

Minute Minuto Min-oo'-to. 

Second Segundo Say-goon'-do. 

What  time  is  it? 6 Que  hora  es? Kay  o'-ra  es? 

It  is  one  o’clock Es  la  una Es  lah  oon'-a. 

It  is  a quarter  past  one.  . Es  la  una  y cuarto Es  lah  oon'-ah  e kwar'-to. 

It  is  half  past  one Es  la  una  y media Es  lah  oon'-ah  e may'-dia. 

It  is  a quarter  to  two.  . . .Son  las  dos  menos  cuarto. Sone  lahs  dose  may'-nos 

kwar'-to. 

It  is  about  four Son  cerca  de  las  cuatro.  . . . Sone  ser'-ka  de  las  kwah'- 

tro. 

It  is  twenty  minutes  past  Son  las  diez  y veinte  minu-Sone  lahs  de-eth  e vay'-inte 
ten  tos.  min-oo'-tose. 

Two  o’clock Son  las  dos Sone  lahs  dose. 

Ten  o’clock Son  las  diez Sone  lahs  de-eth'. 

It  is  midnight Es  media  noche Es  may'-de-o  no'-tchay. 

It  is  noon Es  media  dia Es  may'-de-a  dee'-ah. 

SEASONS. 


ENGLISH. 

Spring 

Summer.  . 
Autumn.  . 
Winter.  . . 


ENGLISH. 

Money.  . . . 
Money.  . . . 

Gold 

Silver 

Paper 

Dollar. . . . 

Cent 

Real 

Medio. . . . 
Change. . . 
Bank  note 


SPANISH.  PRONUNCIATION. 

Primavera Prim-mah-vere'-ah. 

Verano Vai-rah'-no. 

Otono O-tone'-yo. 

Invierno Een-ve-ere'-no. 

MONEY. 

SPANISH.  PRONUNCIATION. 

. Moneda Mo-nay'-dah. 

. Dinero De-ner'-o. 

. Oro O'-ro. 

.Plata Plat'-ah. 

. Papel Pah-peir. 

Peso Pay'-so. 

, Centavo Cen-tah'-vo. 

Real Ray-al'. 

Medio May'-de-o. 

Cambio Kam'-be-o. 

Billete Beel-yai'-te. 


330 


Per  cent 

, . . Por  ciento 

Bank 

. . Banco 

Draft 

. . Letra  de  cambio 

Check 

. . .Cheque 

Discount 

, . . Descuento 

Premium 

. . .Premio 

Par 

. . A la  par 

ON  THE  ROAD. 

ENGLISH. 

SPANISH. 

PRONUNCIATION. 

Ticket 

, . Bo-lay'-to. 

First  class 

. Prim-er'-ra  klas'-say. 

Second  class 

Segunda  clase 

. Say-goon'-dah  klas'-say. 

Third 

. Ter-sere'-ah  klas'-say. 

Through  ticket 

Boleto  terminal 

. .Bo-lay'-to  ter-me-nal'. 

Limited  ticket 

..Bo-lay'-to  lim-e-tah'-do. 

Unlimited  ticket 

. Bo-lay'-to  e-lim-e-tah'-do. 

Stop-over  ticket 

Boleto  de  parada 

. Bo-lay'-to  day  pah-rah'- 
dah. 

Excursion  ticket.  . . . 

Boleto  de  excursion 

. Bo-lay'-to  day  ex-cur-see- 

Round-trip  ticket.  . . 

on  . 

. Bo-lay'-to  day  vee-ah'-he 
ray-don'-do. 

Half-fare  ticket 

Medio  boleto 

. May'-de-o  bo-lay'-to. 

Sleeping-car  ticket.  . 

Boleto  de  coche  dormitorio  Bo-lay'-to  day  ko'-tchay 

dor-me-to'-re-o. 

Ticket  agent 

. Ah-hen'-tay  day  bo-lay'- 
tos. 

Ticket  office 

. Des-pah'-tcho  day  bo- 
lay '-tos. 

Telegraph  office 

. ...  Oficina  del  telegrafo 

. Off-e-see'-nah  del  tel-leg'- 
rah-fo. 

Railroad 

Ferrocarril 

. .Fer-ro-car-reel'. 

Railroad  station 

. Es-tah-see-on'. 

Train 

Tren 

.Tren. 

Express  train 

. Tren  es-pres'-o. 

First  train 

....  Primer  tren 

. .Prim-er'  tren. 

Through  train 

.Tren  ter-me-nal'. 

Local  train 

. Tren  lo-cal'. 

Sleeping  car 

Coche  dormitorio 

.Ko'-tchay  dor-me-to'-re-o 

Smoking  car 

.Ko'-tchay  day  foo-marr'. 

Express  car 

....  Coche  del  expreso 

.Ko'-tchay  del  es-pres'-o. 

Day  coach 

Coche  de  dia 

. Ko'-tchay  day  de-ah'. 

Baggage  car 

Carro  de  equipajes 

Kar'-ro  day  ek-we-pah'- 
hes. 

Baggage  room 

Sala  de  equipajes 

.Sah'-lah  day  ek-we-pah'- 
hes. 

Baggage  agent 

....  Agente  de  equipajes 

. Ah-hen'-tay  day  ek-we- 
pah'-hes. 

Baggage 

Ek-we-pah'-he. 
. Bah-ool'. 

Trunk 

Valise 

.Mah-lay'-tah. 

Hat  box 

. Som-bray-ray'-rah. 

331 


Check 

Dining  room 

Toilet  room 

Without  change 

No  transfer 

A.  M 

P.  M 

Schedule  

Agent 

Ticket  Agent 

Chief  of  station 

Conductor  

Sleeping-car  conductor. . 

Porter  

Engine  

Engineer  

I wish  to  go  to — 

What  time  does  the  train 
start? 

How  many  miles  from 
here  to  — ? 


Talon Tah-lon'. 

Comedor  Kom-may-dor'. 

Retrete  Ray-tray'-te. 

Sin  cambio Seen  kam'-beo. 

Sin  trasbordo Seen  trass-bor'-do. 

Por  la  mahana Por  lab  man-yah'-nah. 

Por  la  tarde Por  lah  tar'-day. 

Itinerario  E-tin-a-rair'-re-o. 

Agente  Ah-hen-te. 

Agente  de  boletos Ah-hen-te  day  bo-lay' - 

tose. 

Jefe  de  la  estacion Hef-eday  lahes-tah'-se-c>n 

Conductor  Kon-dook-tor'. 

Conductor  de  coche  dor-  Kon-dook-tor'  day  ko'- 

mitorio.  tchay  door-me-to'-re-o. 

Portero  Por-ter'-o. 

Maquina  Mack'-e-nah. 

Maquinista  Mack-in-e'-sta. 

Quiero  ir  hasta  — Kee-er'-o  eer  as'-tah  — . 

6 A que  hora  sale  el  tren?.  Ah  kay  o'-rah  sally  el 

tren? 

6 Cuantas  millas  de  aqui  Kwahn'-tahs  meel'-yas  day 
hasta — ? ah-kee'  as'-tah — ? 


When  will  I arrive? dA  que  hora  llegare?....  Ah  kay  o'-ra  1-yay-gah- 

ray'? 

At  what  hour  does  the  6 A que  hora  sale  el  pro-  Ah  kay  o'-ra  sally  el 
next  train  leave?  ximo  tren?  prox'-e-mo  tren? 

How  much  is  the  cost  of  a Cuanto  cuesta  un  boleto  Kwahn'-to  coo-es'-ta  oon 
ticket  from  here  to  B.?  de  aqui  a B.?  bo-lay'-to  day  ah-kee' 

ah  B.^? 

How  much  is  the  cost  of  i Cuanto  cuesta  un  boleto  Kwahn'-to  coo-es'-ta  oon 
a return  ticket?  de  ida  y vuelta?  bo-lay'-to  day  e-da  e 

wel'-ta? 

How  long  is  the  ticket  6 Por  cuanto  tiempo  es  Por  kwahn'-to  tee-em'-po 
good?  valido  el  boleto?  es  val'-e-do  el  bo-lay'- 

to? 

How  much  baggage  free?,  i Cuanto  equipaje  es  libre?  Kwahn'-to  ek-we-pah'-he 

es  lee'-bre? 

What  is  the  cost  for  ex-  Cuanto  cuesta  por  ex-  Kwahn'-to  coo-es'-ta  por 
cess?  ceso?  ek-cess'-o? 

Per  hundred  pounds?....  i Por  cien  libras? Por  see'-en  lee'-brahs? 

Per  fifty  kilos? dPor  cincuenta  kilos?...  Por  sink-wen'-ta  kee'- 

lose? 


IN  TOWN  AND  AT  THE  HOTEL. 


ENGLISH.  SPANISH.  PRONUNCIATION. 

Hotel  Hotel  O-tel'. 

Have  you  any  rooms  va- 6 Tiene  Vd.  cuartos  va-  Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'  kwar- 
cant?  cios?  tose  vas-se-ose'? 

Have  you  a good  room  6'Tiene  Vd.  un  cuarto  Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'  oon 
with  bath?  bueno  con  baho?  k w a r' - t o boo-ain'-o 

cone-ban-yo. 

I want  two  rooms. . . f . y , Quiero  dos  cuartos Kee-er'-o  dose  kwar'-tose. 


332 


Room  Ciiarto  

Bano  

Another  bed Otra  cama 

In  the  hotel En  el  hotel 

Give  me  my  bill Deme  Vd.  mi  cuenta. . 

Give  me  my  receipt Deme  Vd.  mi  recibo... 


Bring  me  some  water Traigame  agua 

Bring  me  some  hot  water.  Traigame  agua  caliente. . 

Bring  me  some  letter  pa-  Traigame  papel  de  cartas 
per. 

Bring  me  a pen  and  some  Traigame  una  pluma  y 

tinta. 

Bring  me  some  envelopes.  Traigame  cubiertas 


Towels  Toallas  

Soap  jabon  

Matches  Cerillos  

Candle  Candela 

Camp  Lampara  

Ice  Hielo  

Ceer  Cerveza  

How  much  shall  I have  to  i Cuanto  habre  de  pagar  a 
pay  to  the  washerwo-  la  lavandera? 
man? 

I want  a washerwoman..  Quiero  una  lavandera.... 

At  what  hour  will  you  A que  hora  vendra  Vd.?. 
come? 

Street  Calle  

Talace Palacio  

Church  Iglesia  

Cathedral  Catedral  

School  Escuela  

College  Colegio  

Cemetery  Cementerio  

Prison Carcel  

Store  Tien  da  

Market  Mercado  

Mouse Casa  

Call  me  very  early Despierteme  muy  tem- 

^ prano. 

L.all  me  at  7 o clock Despierteme  a las  siete.  . . 

Take  my  baggage  down.  . Lleve  Vd.  mi  equipaje 
. abajo. 

How  much  is  my  bill?.  . . i Cuanto  es  mi  cuenta?.  . .. 
I want  to  pay  my  bill.  . . . Quiero  pagar  mi  cuenta.  . 

What  time  is  it? ^ Que  bora  es? 


Kwar'-to. 

Ban'-yo. 

Oh'-trah  cam'-ah. 

En  el  o-tel'. 

Day '-may  00-staid'  me 
cu-en'-tah. 

Day '-may  00-staid'  me  re- 
see'-bo. 

Trah-ee'-gah-me'  ah-gwa. 
Trah-ee'-gah-me'  ah-gwa 
cal-ly-en'-te. 

Trah-ee'-gah-me'  pah- 
pel'  day  kart'-as. 
Trah-ee'-gah-me'  oon'-ah 
ploom'-ah  e teen'-tah. 
Trah-ee'-gah-me'  koo-be- 
er'-tahs. 

To-al'-yas. 

Ha-bon'. 

Seh-reel'-yos. 

Kan-day'-la. 

Lamp'-a-ra. 

Yai'-lo. 

Ser-vay'-za. 

Kwahn'-to  ah-bray'  day 
pah-gar'  ah  la  lav-an- 
der'-ah? 

Kee-er'-o  oo'-nah  lav-an- 
der'-ah. 

A kay'  o'-ra  ven-drah'  00- 
staid'? 

Ki-ye. 

Pal-as'-see-o. 

E-glay'-see-ah. 

Cat-eh-dral'. 

Es-koo-ai'-lah. 

Col-ai'-he-o. 

Sem-en-ter'-e-o. 

Kar'-sel. 

Tee-en'-da. 

Mer-cah'-do. 

Kah'-sa. 

Des-pe-er'-ta-me  moo-e 
tem-pran'-o. 

Des-pe-er'-ta-me  ah  lahs 
see-ai'-te. 

Lyai'-ve  00-staid'  me  ek- 
we-pah'-he  a-bah'-ho. 
Kwahn'-to  es  me  coo'- 
enta? 

Kee-er'-o  pa-gar'  rne 
coo'-en-ta? 

Kay  o'-ra  ais? 


333 


Send  me  a messenger Envieme  un  cargadoi 

Carriage  Coche  

Coachman  Cochero  

How  much  for  one  hour?.  6 Cuanto  por  una  hora? 

How  much  to  the  station?  i Cuanto  hasta  laestacion? 


Where  are  you  going?.  . . 

Go  straight  ahead 

Go  faster 

Go  slower 

Stop  

Right  

Left  

Before 

Behind 

North  

South  

East 

West  

Postoffice  

Letters  

Postage  stamps 

Envelopes  

Registered  letter 

Have  you  any  letters  for 
me? 

At  what  hour  does  the 
mail  train  leave  for  — ?. 
Letter  box 


iA  donde  va  Vd.? 

Vaya  derecho 

Vaya  mas  rapido 

Vaya  mas  despacio 

Parese  Vd. ! 

Derecho  

Izquierdo  

Delante  

Detras  

Norte  

Sur  

Este  

Oeste  

Correo  

Cartas  

Timbres  

Cubiertas  

Carta  registrada 

6 Tiene  Vd.  cartas  para 
mi? 

iA  que  hora  sale  el  tren 
correo  para  — ? 

Buzon  


SHOP  TALK. 

ENGLISH.  SPANISH. 

Have  you  any Tiene  Vd. — ? 

1 want  to  buy Quiero  comprar 

Have  you  others Tiene  Vd.  otras?... 


I want  another Quiero  otra 

How  many Cuantos  

Silk  Seda  

Wool Lana  

Cotton  Algodon  

Linen  Lienzo  or  Lino 

Have  you  anything  bet-  Tiene  Vd.  alguna  cosa 
ter?  mejor? 

I want  this Quiero  este 

Send  this  to Envie  Vd.  esta  a 


Large 
Small 
New  . 
Old  . 


Grande 
Poco  . 
Nuevo 
Viejo  . 


En-vee-eh'-me  oon  car- 
ga-dor'. 

Ko'-tchay. 

Ko-cher'-o. 

Kwahn'-to  por  oo'-nah 
o'-rah? 

Kwahn'-to  as'-tah  lah  es- 
tah-see-on'? 

Ah  don'-dy  vah  oo-staid'? 
Vah'-ya  day-ray'-tcho. 
Vah'-ya  mass  rap'-e-do. 
Vah'-ya  mass  des-pas'-seo. 
Par'-asy  oo-staid'. 
Day-ray'-tcho. 

Ees-quee  er'-do. 
Day-lan'-teh. 

Day-tras'. 

Nor'-tay. 

Soor. 

Es'-tay. 

Wes'-tay. 

Kor-ray'-o. 

Kar'-tas. 

Teem'-bres. 

Koo-be-er'-tas. 

Kar'-tah  reh-his-tra'-da. 
Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'  kar'- 
tahs  par'-ra-rame? 

A kay'  o'-rah  sally'  el  tren 
kor-ray'-o  par'-ah — ? 
Boo-zon'. 


PRONUNCIATION. 

Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'. 
Kee-er'-o  com-prar'. 
Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'  o'- 

trahs. 

Kee-er'-o  o'-trah. 
Kwahn'-tose. 

Say'-dah. 

Lah'-nah. 

Al-go-don'. 

Le-en'-zo  or  Lee'-no. 
Tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'  al- 

goo'-na  co'-sa  mai'-hor. 
Kee-er'-o  es'-tay. 
En-ve-eh'  oo-staid'  es'-ta 
ah. 

Gran'-day. 

Po'-co. 

Noo'-ev-o. 

Ve-eh'-ho. 


334 


Bad 

Pretty 

Cheap 

Dear 

Very  Dear.. 

Narrow 

Angosto 

Wide 

Collar 

Gloves 

Guantes 

Handkerchiefs 

Pahuelos 

Shoes 

Zapatos 

Pins 

Alfileres 

Needles 

Agujas 

Thimble 

Dedal 

E'-lo. 

Thread 

Hilo 

Ribbon 

Liston 

Scissors 

Tijeras 

Veil 

Velo 

Black 

Negro 

White 

Blanco 

Red 

Rubio 

Roo'-bee-o. 

Bine . 

Pink 

Rojizo 

Ro-hee'-zo. 

Green 

Verde 

Vere'-de. 

Purple 

Purpureo 

Poor-poor'-ay-o. 

Yellow .... 

Amarillo 

Am-a-reel'-yo. 

Long 

Largo 

Lar'-go. 

Short 

Corto 

Thick 

Espeso 

Es-pay'-so. 

Thin 

Delgado 

Del-gah'-do. 

A yard 

How  do  you  sell  it  by  the  yard?  i A como  vende  Vd. 

GENERAL. 

la  vara?  A co'-mo  ven'-day 
oo'-staid  lah  var'-a? 

ENGLISH. 

SPANISH. 

PRONUNCIATION. 

Good  morning 

. Buenos  dias 

. Boo-en'-os  dee'-as. 

Good  evening 

. .Buenas  tardes 

. Boo-en'-as  tar'-des. 

Good  night 

. . Buenas  noches 

. Boo-en'-as  no'-tches. 

Sir 

. .Sehor 

. Sane-yor'. 

Madam 

. Sehora 

. Sane-yo'-ra. 

Miss 

. . Sehorita 

Sane-yo-ree'-ta. 

Thank  you 

. . Gracias 

Grah'-see-as. 

How  do  you  do? 

. Como  esta  usted? 

. Co'-mo  es-tah'  oo-staid'? 

Well,  thank  you 

. Bien,  gracias 

. Be-ehn',  grah'-see-as. 
.E  oo-staid'? 

And  you? 

. .^Y  usted? 

Do  me  the  favor 

. Hagame  V.  el  favor 

Ah-ga-me  el  fa-vor'. 

If  you  please 

..Si  usted  gusta 

.See  oo-staid'  goo'-stah. 

What  do  you  want? 

. iQue  quiere  usted? 

.Kay  kee-er'-e  oo-staid'? 

What  is  this? 

. . i Que  es  este? 

.Kay  es  es'-ty? 

What  do  you  call  that?. 

. . (J,  Como  se  llama  eso?... 

Ko-mo  say  yam'-ah  ai-so? 

Do  you  know 

. . Sabe  usted 

. Sah'-beh  oo-staid'. 

What  is  the  matter?.  . . . 

. Que  tiene? 

Kay  tee-ai'-ne? 

Pardon  me 

. . Perdoneme 

.Per-don-a-me. 

335 


As  soon  as  possible Tan  pronto  como  posibleTan  pron'-to  ko'-mo  pos- 

e'-bleh. 

I will  come  again Vendre  otra  vez Ven-dray'  o'-trah  vace. 

Which  is  the  way  to  — ?.  6 Cual  es  la  via  para  — ? Kwahl  es  lah  vee'-ahpar-a? 
Show  me  the  way  to  — ?. . Enseheme  Vd.  el  camino  En-sane'-yai-me  el  cam- 

de — ee'-no  day — 

What  is  your  name? iQue  es  su  nombre  de  Kay-es  soo  nom'-bre  day- 

Vd.?  oo-staid'? 

^Or,  Como  se  llama  Vd.?  Co'-mo  say  l-yam'-a  oo- 
staid'? 


I am  ready 

. .Estoy  listo 

. Es-toy'  lees'-to. 

I am  well 

, . .Estoy  bien 

, Es-toy'  be-ehn'. 

Bring  me 

. .Traigame 

Trah-e'-ga-me. 

Very  well 

. . Muy  bien. 

Moo'-e  be-ehn'. 

Let  us  go 

. .Vamos 

. Vam'-ose. 

It  is  late 

. . Es  tarde 

. Es  tar'-dy. 

It  is  early 

. . Es  temprano 

, Es  tem-prah'-no. 

Sit  down 

. . Sientese  Vd 

. See-en'-ta-seh  oo-staid'. 

Go  in 

. . Entre  Vd 

En'-tray  oo-staid'. 

Come  in 

. . Entre 

En'-tray. 

Go  away 

. . Vaya 

. Vah'-ya. 

Good  bye 

. . Adios 

, Ah-de-ose'. 

Yes 

..Si 

.See. 

No 

. . No 

.No. 

Do  you  speak  English?.  . 

. .<=;Habla  Vd.  ingles? 

Ah'-bla  oo-staid'  ing-les'r 

I speak  it  a little 

. . Hablo  un  poco 

.Ah'-blo  oon  po-co. 

What  do  you  say? 

. .(iQue  dice  Vd.? 

Kay  dee'-say  oo-staid'? 
. Don'-day  es-tah'  — ? 

Where  is  — ■? 

. . ^Donde  esta  — ? 

Where  does  he  live? 

. . ^Donde  vive  el? 

Don'-day  vee'-veh  el? 

DOCTOR  AND  MEDICINE. 

ENGLISH. 

SPANISH. 

PRONUNCIATION. 

I am  sick  and  want  a doc- 

Estoy enfermo  y quiero 

Es'-toy  en-fere'-mo  e kee- 

tor 

un  medico. 

ere'-o  oon  med'-e-ko. 

Will  you  go  to  look  for  a 

Quiere  Vd.  ir  a buscar  Kee-er'-e  oos-staid  ir  ah 

doctor. 

un  medico. 

boos'-car  oon  med'-i-ko. 

I want  a doctor  who  Quiero  un  medico  que 

Kee-er'-o  oon  med'-e-ko 

speaks  English. 

hable  ingles. 

kay  ab'-lay  een-gless'. 

Is  he  a good  doctor?.  . . . 

6Es  buen  medico? 

Es  boo-en  med'-e-ko? 

Where  is  the  drug  store?. 

6 Donde  esta  la  botica?.  . . 

Don'-dy  es-tah'  lah  bo- 
tee'  ka? 

Take  this  prescription  to 

Lleve  Vd.  esta  receta  a la  Lyai-veh'  oo-staid'  es'- 

the  drug  store. 

botica. 

sta  res-ay'-tah  ah  la  bo- 
tee'-ka. 

What  is  the  matter  with 

^Que  tiene  Vd. ?.  

Kay  tee-ai'-ne  oo-staid'? 

you? 

I have  headache 

Tengo  dolor  de  cabeza.  . 

Teng'-o  do-lor'  day  ca- 
vay'-za. 

I have  toothache 

Tengo  dolor  de  muelas.  . 

Teng'-o  do-lor'  day  moo- 
ai'-las. 

I have  stomachache 

Tengo  dolor  deestomago. 

Teng'-o  do-lor'  day  es- 
tom'-ago. 

I have  earache 

Tengo  dolor  de  oido.... 

Teng'-o  do-lor'  day  o-ee'- 
do. 

336 


I have  a cold 

, Teng'-o  res-free-ah'-do. 

I have  fever 

Tengo  fiebre 

. . Teng'-o  fee-ai'-bre. 

How  are  you? 

6 Como  esta  Vd.  ? 

. . Ko-mo  es-tah'  oo-staid'? 

I am  better 

Estoy  mejor 

. . Es-toy'  may'-hor. 

I am  worse 

Estoy  peor 

. ..  Es-toy'  pay'-or. 

Quinine  

Quinina 

. ..  Kee-nee'-na. 

Chloroform  

Cloroformo  

. . . Cloro-for'-mo. 

Calomel 

Calomel 

. ..  Calo-mel'. 

Castor  oil 

Aceite  de  castor 

. . As-ay'-e-tay  day  cas-tor'. 

Pills  

Pildoras  

..  Pil'-do-rahs. 

Capsules 

Capsulas 

. . Cap'-soo-lahs. 

Salts 

Sales 

. . Sal'-ehs. 

Morphine 

Morfina 

. . Mor-fee'-nah. 

Laudanum 

Laudana 

. . . Lah'-oo-dah-na. 

Porous  plaster 

Parche  poroso 

. . . Par'-tchay  po-ro'-so. 

Plaster 

. . Em-plas'-to  or  Par'-tchay. 

Mustard  plaster 

Sinapismo 

. . Se-nah-pees'-mo. 

Aconite 

Aconito 

. . Ah-con'-e-to. 

Belladonna 

Belladona 

. . Bel-yah-don'-ah. 

Nux  Vomica 

Nuez  Vomica 

. . . Noo'-es  vom'-i-ca. 

Glycerine 

Glicerina 

. . Glee-cer-e'-nah. 

Arsenicum 

Arsenico 

. . Ar-say'-ne-co. 

TABLE  AND  MEALS, 


ENGLISH. 

SPANISH. 

PRONUNCIATION. 

The  bill  of  fare 

A plate 

Un  plato 

Oon  plat'-o. 

A glass 

Un  vaso 

A teaspoon 

Una  cucharita 

....  Oo'-na  coo-tchar-ee'-tah. 

Coffee 

Cafe 

Kaf-fay'  con  lay '-tehee. 

Coffee  and  milk 

Cafe  con  leche 

Tea 

Te 

Milk 

Cream 

Crema 

Sugar 

....  Ah-zoo'-kar. 

Chocolate 

Chocolate 

....  Chock-o-lat'-e. 

Beef  tea 

Un  caldo 

Lemonade 

Beer 

....  Ser-vay'-sa. 

Wine 

Claret 

....  Vee'-no  teen'-to. 

Ice 

Hielo 

Bread 

Butter 

Water 

Agua. 

Ice  water 

Agua  con  hielo.  . . . 

Soup 

....  So'-pah. 

Fish 

....  Pes-cah'-do. 

Oysters 

Ostiones 

Rice 

....  Ar-roce'. 

Eggs 

Fried  eggs 

Huevos  fritos 

. . . .Wai'-voce  free'-toce. 

Hard  boiled  eggs 

Huevos  duros 

337 


Soft  boiled  eggs Huevos  pasados  por  aguaWai'-voce  pa-sah'-doce 

por  ahg'-wah 


Omelet 

. Tor-teel'-ya  day  wai' 

Beef 

Vaca 

. . Vah'-ka. 

Roast  beef 

Vaca  asada 

. . Vah'-ka  ah-sah'-da. 

Boiled 

Hervido 

. . Er-vee'-do. 

Meat 

Came 

, . Kar'-nay. 

Beefsteak 

Beftek 

. .Bef-tek. 

Steak  and  potatoes 

Beftek  con  papas 

. Bef-tek  con  pap'-as 

Rare 

Poco  asado 

. .Po-ko  ah-sah'-do. 

Well  done 

Bien  asado 

. Be-en'  ah-sah'-do. 

Mutton 

Carnero 

, . Kar-nere'-o. 

Chops 

. .Kos-teel'-yahs. 

Cutlet 

. Choo-lay'-ta. 

Veal  cutlet 

Chuleta  de  ternera.  . . . 

. . Choo-lay'-ta  day  ter 
nere'-a. 

Lamb 

. . Kor-dere'-o. 

Pork 

, . Poo-ere'-ko. 

Bacon 

. . To-see'-no. 

Ham 

. .Ha-mone'. 

Pepper 

. Pee-mee-en'-ta. 

Saft 

Sal 

..Sal. 

Oil 

. . Ah-say'-e-tay. 

Vinegar  

, . Vee-nah'-gre. 

Mustard 

Mostaza 

. . Mos-taz'-ah. 

Sauce 

Salsa 

. . Sal'-sah. 

Vegetables 

Legumbres 

. . Le-goom'-bres. 

Potatoes 

. Pap'-ahs. 

Fried  potatoes 

Papas  fritas 

. . Pap'-ahs  free'-tas. 

Beans 

Frijoles 

. Free-ho'-les. 

Peas 

. Chee'-char-ose. 

Lettuce 

. .Lay-chu'-ga. 

Cabbage 

Col... 7 

. .Col. 

Tomatoes 

. .To-mat'-es. 

Cauliflower 

. .Col-e-flor'. 

Garlic 

. Ah'-ho. 

Radishes 

. Rah-ba-nee'-tose. 

Chicken 

Polio  

. .Pole'-yo. 

Turkey 

. . Pah'-vo. 

Ice  Cream 

. . A-lah'-do. 

Cheese 

. .Kay'-so. 

Fruit 

. .Froo'-ta. 

Strawberries 

. .Fray'-sahs. 

Grapes 

. .Oo'-vas. 

Oranges 

. . Nar-ran'-kas. 

Bananas - 

. .Plat'-a-nos. 

Lemons 

. .Lee-mo'-nes. 

Figs 

. . E'-gose. 

Table 

. . May'-sa. 

Chair 

Silla 

. .Seel'-ya. 

Napkin 

. . Ser-veel'-yet-a. 

Fork 

. .Ten-e-dor'. 

Knife 

. .Coo-cheel'-yo. 

Spoon 

. . Coo-tchar'-ah. 

338 


Chronological. 


ANNO  DOMINI. 

648 — The  Toltecs  arrived  in  Anahuac. 

1051 — They  abandoned  the  country. 

1170 — The  Chicimecs  arrived  in  Mexico. 

1196 — The  Mexicans  reached  Tula. 

1200 — The  Alcouans  arrived. 

1325 — The  Mexicans  founded  Tenochtitlan  or  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1428 — Foundation  of  the  Aztec  kingdom. 

1431 — Enthronement  of  Netzahualcoyotl,  King  of  Texcoco. 

1485 — Cortez  born  at  Medellin,  Spain. 

1502 — Montezuma  II.  enthroned. 

1504 — Cortez  left  Spain  for  Cuba. 

1510 —  Great  tidal  wave  on  Lake  Texcoco  overflows  Tenochtitlan. 

15 1 1 —  Turrets  of  the  great  Aztec  temple  burned. 

Spanish  ship  wrecked  on  the  Island  of  Cozumel. 

1516 —  Death  of  Nezahualpilli,  the  Tezcucan  King. 

1517 —  March  4,  discovery  of  Yucatan  by  Cordoba. 

1518 —  May  I,  departure  of  Grijalva  from  Cuba  for  Mexico. 

November  18,  Cortez  sailed  from  Santiago. 

1519 —  February  10,  Cortez  sailed  from  Habana. 

March  20,  Cortez  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tabasco  River. 

April  21,  Cortez  landed  at  Vera  Cruz. 

August  16,  commenced  the  march  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

September  23,  Cortez  entered  Tlaxcala. 

November  8,  Cortez  entered  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1520 —  June  30th,  death  of  Montezuma. 

July  I,  Cortez  driven  out  of  City  of  Mexico,  Noche  Triste,  the  ‘'Dismal 
Night.” 

July  8,  battle  with  the  Mexicans  at  Otumba. 

1521 —  August  13,  re-entry  of  Cortez  into  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Establishment  by  Spain  of  the  rule  over  the  new  province  by  a governor. 
Cortez  established  the  seat  of  government  at  Coyoacan. 

Establishment  of  the  first  Christian  church  in  the  New  World  at 

Tlaxcala. 

1524 — First  church  commenced  on  the  site  of  the  present  Cathedral. 


33d 


1525—  Hanging  of  Tetlepanquetzaltzin  by  Cortez. 

1526 —  September  19,  Bishopric  of  Puebla  established,  seat  at  Puebla. 

1528 —  Establishment  of  the  government  under  the  Audencia. 

1529 —  July  6,  Cortez  made  Marques  del  Valle  de  Oaxaca. 

1530 —  Guadalajara  founded. 

1531 —  December  9,  vision  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  to  Juan  Diego. 

December  12,  Juan  Diego  gathered  the  flowers  from  where  the  Virgin 

stood.  The  feast  of  Guadalupe. 

July  25,  Queretaro  became  a Christian  city. 

1533 — Toluca  founded. 

1535 —  The  first  Viceroy  arrived  in  Mexico. 

June  2,  Bishopric  of  Oaxaca  established,  seat  at  Oaxaca. 

First  printing  press  brought  to  the  country  and  first  book  printed  in 
Mexico. 

1536 —  August  29,  corner  stone  of  the  Cathedral  at  Puebla  laid. 

1539 — March  19,  Bishopric  of  Chiapas  established,  seat  at  San  Cristobal. 

1541 —  May  18,  Valladolid,  now  Morelia,  founded. 

1542 —  San  Miguel  founded. 

1545 —  January  31,  Archbishopric  of  Mexico  established,  seat  at  City  of  Mexico. 

1546 —  September  8,  discovery  of  silver  at  Zacatecas. 

1547 —  December  2,  Cortez  died  in  the  town  of  Castelleja  de  la  Questa,  in  Spain. 

1548 —  January  20,  Zacatecas  founded. 

July  31,  Bishopric  of  Guadalajara  established,  seat  at  Guadalajara. 

1552 —  First  inundation  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  the  dyke  of  San  Lazaro  built. 

1553 —  Silao  founded. 

1557 — Guanajuato  founded. 

The  Patio  process  for  the  amalgamation  of  silver  invented  by  Bar- 
tolome  de  Medina  at  Pachuca. 

1562 — August  15,  Bishopric  of  Yucatan  established,  seat  at  Merida. 

1568 — English  driven  off  the  island  of  Los  Sacraficios  near  Vera  Cruz. 

1570 — August  16,  the  Inquisition  established  in  Mexico. 

Celaya  founded. 

1573 —  Corner  stone  of  the  Cathedral  laid. 

1574 —  Twenty-one  Lutherans  burned  by  order  of  the  Inquisition. 

1576 — Leon  founded. 

1583 — San  Luis  Potosi  founded. 

1586 —  An  English  ship  captured  near  Acapulco. 

1587 —  Sir  Francis  Drake  captured  a Spanish  ship  with  a rich  cargo,  off  Cali- 

fornia. 

159b — Monterey  founded. 

1600 — The  City  of  Monterey  founded. 

1603 —  Building  of  the  Aqueduct  of  Chapultepec  commenced. 

1604 —  Church  on  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula  dedicated. 


340 


i6o7 November  28,  the  great  drainage  canal,  Tajo  de  Nochistongo,  com- 

Foundation  and  walls  of  the  Cathedral  completed. 

1618— Cordoba  founded. 

1620— September  28,  Bishopric  of  Durango  established,  seat  at  Durango. 

1623— Cathedral  placed  under  roof. 

1526 — First  service  in  the  Cathedral. 

1620— Great  inundation  of  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1634— Subsiding  of  the  waters  of  the  inundation  of  the  Plain  of  Mexico. 

1643 — Salvatierra  founded.  ^ , 

1649— April  10,  fifteen  persons  burned  by  order  of  the  Inquisition. 

April  18,  Cathedral  at  Puebla  consecrated. 

1660-A  colony  of  a hundred  families  settled  in  New  Mexico. 
i667__December  22,  dedication  of  the  Cathedral. 

1678-May  2,  Church  of  Santa  Maria  los  Angeles  at  Churubusco  completed. 
i69i_Conquest  of  Texas. 

j5q2 — Building  of  the  National  Palace  commenced.  r tvt  • 

1709-May  I,  completion  of  the  Church  of  Guadalupe  near  City  of  Mexico. 
1722— January  19,  opening  of  the  first  theater  in  Mexico. 

The  first  newspaper,  Gaceta  de  Mexico,  published  in  Mexico. 
1724-February  4,  completion  of  the  Palacio  del  Ayuntimiento  or  City  Hall. 
1760— The  first  regular  army  organized  in  Mexico. 

Houses  numbered  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1767-Jesuits  expelled  from  Mexico  by  Royal  Order,  dated  January  15. 

1770— A fleet  sailed  for  Spain  with  a cargo  of  thirty  millions  of  silver  dol  ars. 

1776— February  25,  establishment  of  the  Monte  de  Piedad  or  national  pawn 

1777—  Dumber  25,  Bishopric  of  Linares  established,  seat  at  Monterey. 

1779— May  7,  Bishopric  of  Sonora  established,  scat  at  Cuhacan. 

!78^Arrivd^oT  the’  famous  Viceroy,  Conde  de  Revillagigedo.  He  appointed  a 
^ police  force  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  lighted  and  paved  the  streets. 

i7Qi_Completion  of  the  towers  of  the  Cathedral. 

1795-Cession  of  Florida,  west  of  the  Perdido  River,  to  France^ 

1802 — August  4,  casting  of  the  bronze  statue  of  Charles  ’ ^ ' 

iLs-December  9,  statue  of  Charles  IV.  unveiled  in  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Humboldt  traveled  in  Mexico.  . t j 4 .. 

1810- September  16,  Hidalgo  sounded  the  Grito  of  Mexican  Independenc  . 

October  30,  battle  of  Las  Cruces.  r a-  u 

181 1—  January  16,  Hidalgo  defeated  at  the  Bridge  of  Calderon. 

May  21,  Hidalgo  captured  at  Acatita  de  Bajan. 

June  26,  Allende,  Aldama  and  Jimenez  executed. 

July  31^  Hidalgo  executed  at  Chihuahua. 


341 


1812 —  Evacuation  of  Cuautla  by  Morelos. 

1813 —  September  14,  meeting  of  the  first  Mexican  Congress  at  Chilpancingo. 
November  6,  first  formal  Declaration  of  Mexican  Independence. 
December  23,  defeat  of  Morelos. 

1814 —  February  3,  execution  of  Matamoras  at  Morelia. 

October  22,  proclamation  of  the  first  Constitution  at  Apatzingan. 

1815 —  December  22,  Morelos  executed  by  order  of  the  Inquisition. 

1820 — May  31,  suppression  of  the  Inquisition  in  Mexico. 

1821. — Promulgation  of  the  Plan  of  Iguala  and  the  colors  of  the  Mexican  flag. 
August  2,  Puebla  taken  by  Iturbide. 

September  27,  Iturbide  entered  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1822 —  February  24,  first  Congress  of  the  Mexican  Nation  assembled. 

May  19,  Iturbide  elected  emperor. 

Iturbide  and  his  wife  annointed  and  crowned  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mexico. 
December  6,  a Republic  proclaimed  by  Santa  Ana  at  Vera  Cruz. 

1823 —  July  14,  Iturbide  shot  at  Padilla. 

1824 —  October  4,  Constitution  proclaimed. 

October  10,  first  President  of  Mexico  inaugurated. 

November  7,  Second  Mexican  Congress. 

Statue  of  Charles  IV.  taken  down  and  removed  from  the  Plaza  Mayor  to 
the  patio  of  the  University. 

1825 —  January  i,  First  Constitutional  Congress  assembled. 

During  this  year  the  last  Spanish  soldier  left  Mexico  in  the  evacuation 
of  the  Island  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua. 

1829 —  A Spanish  force  landed  at  Tampico  in  July. 

September  ii,  Spanish  invaders  defeated  and  captured  by  the  forces 
under  Generals  Santa  Ana  and  Mier. 

1830 —  September  15,  Porfirio  Diaz  born. 

1835 —  Rebellion  of  Texas  under  Sam  Houston. 

1836 —  December  28,  Spain  formally  recognized  the  Republic  of  Mexico. 

March  6,  massacre  of  the  Alamo,  San  Antonio,  Texas. 

March  27,  massacre  at  Goliad. 

April  22,  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  Texas.  Santa  Ana  captured. 

1837 —  August  22,  first  concession  granted  for  a railway  between  the  City  of 

Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz. 

1840 — April  27,  Bishopric  of  Lower  California  established,  seat  at  La  Paz. 

1844 — April  12,  Texas  admitted  into  the  Union. 

1846— April  24,  first  skirmish  of  the  American  War. 

May  8,  battle  of  Palo  Alto  and  May  9,  Resaca  de  la  Palma. 

May  18,  General  Taylor  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  at  Matamoros. 

July  7,  Monterey,  Cal.,  captured. 

July  8,  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  captured. 

September  20,  Monterey  captured. 


342 


1847 —  February  23,  battle  of  Buena  Vista. 

February  28,  Chihuahua  occupied. 

March  9,  General  Scott  landed  at  Vera  Cruz. 

March  27,  Vera  Cruz  captured. 

April  18,  battle  of  Cerro  Gordo. 

May  25,  Puebla  occupied  by  the  Americans. 

August  9,  General  Scott  entered  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

August  20,  battles  of  Padierna  and  Churubusco. 

September  8,  battles  of  Casa  Mata  and  Molino  del  Rey. 

September  12  and  13,  storming  and  capture  of  Chapultepec. 

September  13,  capture  of  the  Garita  de  Belem  and  San  Cosme. 
September  15,  entry  of  the  Americans  into  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1848 —  February  2,  conclusion  of  peace  and  signing  of  the  Treaty  of  Guadalupe, 

Hidalgo. 

1850 —  June  I,  Bishopric  of  Vera  Cruz  established,  seat  at  Jalapa. 

1851 —  President  Arista  inaugurated. 

1852 —  Statue  of  Charles  IV.  placed  in  its  present  position. 

1853 —  Santa  Ana  proclaimed  dictator  of  Mexico. 

1854 —  August  30,  Bishopric  of  San  Luis  Potosi  established,  seat  at  San  Luis 

Potosi. 

1855 —  Comonfort  elected  President. 

1856—  June  25,  decree  ordering  sale  of  church  real  estate  by  President  Comon- 

fort. 

September  16,  suppression  of  the  Franciscan  monks. 

1859 — July  12,  proclamation  of  the  Laws  of  the  Reform,  by  President  Juarez. 

1861 —  July  17,  passage  of  the  law  suspending  payment  on  bonded  debt  of  the 

Republic. 

October  31,  adoption  of  the  Treaty  of  London  by  England,  France  and 
Spain. 

Arrival  of  the  allied  fleet  at  Vera  Cruz,  in  December,  1861,  and  January, 
1862. 

1862 —  January  26,  Bishopric  of  Queretaro  established,  seat  at  Queretaro. 

Bishopric  of  Leon  established,  seat  at  Leon. 

Bishopric  of  Zamora  established,  seat  at  Zamora. 

Bishopric  of  Zacatecas  established,  seat  at  Zacatecas. 

February  19,  Treaty  of  La  Soledad  signed. 

May  5,  brilliant  battle  at  Puebla  and  repulse  of  the  French  by  the  Mexican 
General  Zaragosa. 

1863 —  March  6,  suppression  of  all  religious  orders  in  Mexico. 

March  16,  Bishopric  of  Tulancingo  established,  seat  at  Tulancingo. 
Bishopric  of  Chilapa  established,  seat  at  Chilapa. 

Archbishopic  of  Michoacan  established,  seat  at  Morelia. 

Archbishopric  of  Guadalajara  established,  seat  at  Guadalajara. 


343 


May  17,  Puebla  captured  by  the  French. 

June  9,  French  troops  occupied  the  City  of  Mexico. 

July  10,  assembly  of  notables  called  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  the 
crown  tendered  to  Maximilian,  the  Archduke  of  Austria, 

1864 —  June  12,  Maximilian  crowned  Emperor  of  Mexico. 

1865 —  October  3,  Maximilian  published  a decree  declaring  all  persons  in  arms 

against  the  Imperial  Government  bandits,  ordering  them  executed. 
October  21,  Generals  Felix  Diaz,  Arteaga,  Salazar  and  Villagomez  shot 
at  Uruapam  as  bandits  under  Maximilian’s  decree. 

November  6,  the  United  States,  through  Secretary  Seward,  sent  a 
dispatch  to  Napoleon  III.,  protesting  against  the  presence  of  the 
French  army  in  Mexico  as  a grave  reflection  against  the  United  States, 
and  notifying  him  that  nothing  but  a Republican  would  be  recognized. 

1866 —  April  5,  Napoleon  withdrew  his  support  from  Maximilian. 

November,  Napoleon  ordered  the  evacuation  of  Mexico  by  the  French 

troops. 

1867 —  The  last  of  the  French  troops  leave  Mexico  in  February. 

April  2,  capture  of  Puebla  by  General  Profirio  Diaz. 

April  II,  he  defeated  Marquez  at  San  Lorenzo. 

May  15,  capture  of  Queretaro,  surrender  of  Maximilian  to  General 
Escobedo. 

June  19,  execution  of  Maximilian,  Mejia  and  Miramon. 

June  21,  capture  of  the  City  of  Mexico  by  General  Porfirio  Diaz. 

July  15,  Juarez  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  and  re-established  his  gov- 
ernment. 

1869 — September  16,  completion  of  the  Mexican  Railway  to  Puebla. 

October  4,  Bishopric  of  Tamaulipas  established,  seat  at  Victoria. 

1871 —  December  i,  Juarez  re-elected  President. 

1872 —  July  18,  death  of  President  Juarez. 

December  i,  election  of  President  Lerdo. 

December  20,  completion  of  the  Mexican  Railway  in  the  meeting  of  the 
tracks  above  Maltrata. 

1873 —  January  i,  opening  of  the  Mexican  Railway  between  the  City  of  Mexico 

and  Vera  Cruz. 

1874 —  Incorporation  in  the  Constitution  of  the  Laws  of  the  Reform. 

1875 —  December  5,  opening  of  the  National  Exhibition  of  Mexican  products,  in 

the  City  of  Mexico. 

1876 —  January  15,  commenced  the  revolution  under  the  plan  of  Tuxtepec. 
November  24,  General  Porfirio  Diaz  entered  the  City  of  Mexico  at  the 

head  of  the  revolutionary  army  and  was  proclaimed  provisional  presi- 
dent. 

1S77 — May  6,  General  Diaz  declared  Constitutional  President. 

1878 — Concession  granted  for  the  building  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway. 


344 


1879 —  June  24,  execution  of  nine  revolutionists  against  the  Diaz  government, 

at  Vera  Cruz. 

1880 —  May  25,  Bishopric  of  Tabasco  established,  seat  at  San  Juan  Bautista. 
September  25,  election  of  General  Manuel  Gonzalez  as  President. 

Track  laying  on  the  Mexican  Central  commenced. 

October  14,  construction  of  Mexican  National  Railroad  commenced. 

1882 —  November  25,  Sonora  Railway  opened. 

1883 —  The  “Nickel  Riots”  occurred. 

March  15,  Bishopric  of  Colima  established,  seat  at  Colima. 

1884 —  March  8,  completion  of  the  tracks,  and  on  April  5 opening  of  the  Mexican 

Central  Railway  from  El  Paso  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1885 —  February,  some  Americans  arrested  for  breaking  twigs  from  the  tree  of 

Noche  Triste. 

1886 —  Completion  of  Mexican  National  Railroad  to  Morelia  and  Patzeuaro. 
December  i,  re-election  of  General  Porfirio  Diaz  to  the  presidency. 

1888 —  April  17,  completion  of  the  Mexican  Central  to  Guadalajara. 

March  i,  completion  of  the  International  Railroad,  Eagle  Pass  to 
Torreon. 

November  i,  completion  of  the  Mexican  National  Railroad,  from  Laredo 
to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1889 —  Construction  of  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad  commenced  in  Sep- 

tember. 

1892 —  November  ii,  opening  of  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad. 

1893 —  Completion  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway  to  Vera  Cruz. 

1894 —  March  i,  first  party  of  American  tourists  visited  the  Ruins  of  Mitla, 

under  escort  of  the  American  Tourist  Association. 

Completion  of  the  Tehuantepec  Railroad. 

1897 — Completion  of  the  Mexico,  Cuernavaca  & Pacific  Railway  to  Cuernavaca. 


345 


Index. 


Page 

Acambaro  i55 

Acapulco  156 

Aduana  89 

Agriculture  13 

Aguas  Calientes 158 

Alameda,  La gi 

Alhondiga  188 

Altitudes  of  Cities 321 

Altitudes  of  Mountains 12 

Ameca  160 

Amecameca  160 

Amusements  61 

Anahuac  24 

Apam,  Plain  of 12,  284 

Apizaco  285 

Aqueducts  93 

Arbeu  Theatre  62 

Around  the  Valley  of  Mexico 121 

Arzobispado  89 

Assembly  of  Notables 38 

Atotonilco  249 

Atzcapotzalco  129 

Audencias,  The  29 

Baggage  43 

Bajio  Region 272 

Balsas,  The  Rio 9 

Ball  Games  63 

Balvanera,  La loi 

Barranca  185 

Barranca  del  Infernillo 286 

Belen  de  los  Padres 102 

Bergantines  27,  72 

Bishop’s  Palace  212 

Boca  del  Monte 286 

Bocas  3®o 


Page 

Bolson  de  Mapimi ii,  268 

Buena  Vista,  Battle  of 36 

Bull  Fights .63 

Cabs  45 

Cacahuamilpa  315 

Calendar  Stone  ...  .79 

Calzadas  93 

Camara  de  Diputados 89 

Campanas,  Cerro  de  las 39 

Campeche 165 

Capuchinas  242 

Cargadores  53 

Caridad,  La ,, 102 

Carlotta 241 

Carmen,  El  103 

Carmen  Church  at  Celaya 166 

Carriages  45 

Casa  Mata,  Battle  of 36 

Casa  de  Moneda 89 

Catacombs  at  Guanajuato 190 

Cathedral,  City  of  Mexico 96-98 

Cathedral,  Durango 179 

Cathedral,  Guadalajara 183 

Cathedral,  Morelia  215 

Cathedral,  Puebla  236 

Catorce  164 

Celaya  166 

Cequauhtzin,  Legend  of 141 

Cerro  de  las  Mitras 21 1 

Cerro  de  las  Silla 211 

Cerro  Gordo .296 

Chac-Mol  81 

Chaleo,  Lake ii 

Chapultepec 121 

Chapala,  Lake  9 


346 


Page 

Charles  IV.,  Statue 94 

Chihuahua i68 

Chilpancingo 170 

Chinampas  137 

Cholula,  Pyramid  of 238 

Cholula,  Massacre 27 

Choy  Cave 282 

Chronological  338 

Churches,  City  of  Mexico 96 

Church  of  the  Leaning  Tower.  . . .112 

Church  Visiting 53 

Churubusco,  Battle  of 124 

Churubusco,  Town  of 124 

Cigars  49 

Circo-Teatro  Orrin  62 

Cities  and  Towns 155 

City  of  Mexico 71 

Climate 7,  45 

Clothing  45 

Coaches,  Hackney 45 

Coahuila  & Pacific  Ry 306 

Coast,  The 12 

Coatepec  Valley 197 

Cofre  de  Perote 196 

Colegio,  Durango  181 

Colegio  de  las  Ninas 104 

Colegio  de  la  Paz 84 

Colleges  83 

Collossal  Head,  A 82 

Colima i7i 

Columbus,  Statue  of 95 

Commercial  College  84 

Congress  33 

Corpus  Cristi  104 

Conquest  of  Mexico 24 

Conquest,  Standard  26 

Conservatory  of  Music 83 

Contreras  312 

Convents  loi 

Cordoba  171 

Coatzacoalcos 9,  i7i 

Corona,  Don  Juan 139 


Page 

Cortez  24 

Cortez,  Banner  of 255 

Costumes  56 

Coyoacan  125 

Cuautla  172 

Cuautlenchan  136 

Cuernavaca  173,  314 

Cuincho,  Hot  Springs 304 

Cuitzeo,  Lake 10 

Culiacan  176 

Customs  Regulations 43 

Customs  56 

Desierto,  El 130 

Diaz,  President  39 

Diego,  Juan,  Vision  of 143 

Discovery  of  Mexico 23 

Dismal  Night  27 

Distances  45 

Doctors  53 

Dolores  Hidalgo  31 

Dominicans  117 

Dulces  54 

Durango  176 

Duties  43 

Eastward  Over  the  Interoceanic.  .293 
Eastward  Over  the  Mexican  Ry.  .283 

Eastward  to  Tampico 274 

Etla  310 

El  Indio  Triste 80 

El  Salto  del  Abra  de  Caballeros. . .282 

Encarnacion  Bridge  .272 

Ensenanza  Antigua 106 

Entombment,  The 232 

Esperanza  285 

Eulalia,  Santa,  Mine 170 

Express  Service 53 

Feathered  Serpent,  The 81 

Fierro  del  Toro 313 

Floating  Gardens 137 


347 


Page 

Flower  Market  91 

Foreign  Hospitals 86 

Forests  13 

French  Intervention 37 

Fresnillo  269 

Geographical  7 

Goddess  of  Water 80 

Grijalva,  Landing  of 26 

Grijalva 9 

Grito  of  Independence 145 

Guadalajara  181 

Guadalupe  near  City  of  Mexico. . .142 

Guadalupe-Hidalgo,  Treaty  of 36 

Guadalupe  near  Puebla 234 

Guadalupe  near  Zacatecas 263 

Guanajuato  186 

Guarantees,  The  Three 32 

Guatemotzin  27 

Guatemotzin,  Statue  of 96 

Guaymas 193,  318 

Hall  of  Ambassadors 87 

Hall  of  the  Monoliths 207 

Harbors  12 

Hercules  Mills 16 

Hermosillo  193,  318 

Hidalgo  31,  87 

Hidalgo  Railroad 19,  319 

Historical  23 

Historic  Houses  89 

Hospicio  Guadalajara  183 

Hospicio  de  Pobres 86 

Hospital  Real  no 

Hospitals,  City  of  Mexico 84 

Hospitals,  Foreign  86 

Hotels  47 

Hotels  and  Restaurants 47 

House  of  the  Masks 90 

House  of  Tiles 89 

Huitzilopochtli  Idol  80 

Huixotla,  Ruins  of 293 

Humboldt  House  90 


Page 


Iguala,  Plan  of 32 

Iguatzio,  Town  of 233 

Indio  Triste,  El 80 

Inquisition,  The 117 

International  Railway 17 

Interoceanic  Railway  18 

Irapuato  193 

Iron  14 

Iron  Mountain 177 

Iturbide  89 

Ixtacalco  140 

Ixtaccihuatl,  Height  of 12 

Jalapa  19^4 

Jesus  Maria  no 

Jesus  Nazareno  no 

Juanacatlan,  Falls  of 186 

Juan  Diego,  Vision  of 143 

Juan  Medina  301 

Juan  Panduro 183 

Juarez,  Benito  38 

Juarez  Monument 96 

La  Barca  274 

La  Bufa  262 

La  Cuna 85 

La  Mineria  83 

Lagos  197 

Laja,  Canon  of 300 

Lakes  9 

La  Piedad  131 

Las  Canoas 277 

Laundries  59 

La  Viga  Canal 136 

Law  School  i 84 

Leon  197 

Lerdo  200 

Lerma  River 9 

Liberty  Bell  87 

Libraries 75 

Linares  316 

Los  Remedios 140 


348 


Page 

Malintzi  285 

Maltrata  286 

Manufactures  15 

Manzanillo  200 

Map  Around  the  Valley 326 

Mapimi,  Bolson  de ^268 

Maravatio 200 

Marfil  186 

Marina,  La  26 

Matamoros  201 

Maximilian  241 

Mayran,  Rio  ii 

Mazatlan 201 

Measures  45 

Medicines  53 

Mescal  13 

Merida  201 

Metlac  Ravine  13 

Mexia 241 

Mexicalcingo 140 

Mexican  Railway 16 

Mexican  Central  Railway 16 

Mexican  International  Ry 17 

Mexican  Interoceanic  Ry 18 

Mexican  Nat.  Construction  Co... 319 

Mexican  National  Ry 18 

Mexican  Northern  Railway ...  19,  305 
Mexico,  Cuernavaca  & Pacific  Ry.  .17 

Mexican  Southern  Ry 19 

Mexican  War 35 

Michoacan  215 

Michoacan  & Pacific  Railway.  .19,  315 

Military  51 

Military  Academy  122 

Mines  and  Mining 14 

Mint,  City  of  Mexico 89 

Mint,  Chihuahua  170 

Miramon  241 

Mitla 201 

Mixcoac 125,  311 

Molino  de  Flores 135 

Molino  del  Rey,  Battle  of 36 


Page 


Molino  del  Rey 124 

Monclova  210 

Money  44 

Monte  de  Piedad 82 

Montemorelos  316 

Monterey  21 1 

Monterey  & Mexican  Gulf  Ry.19,  315 

Montezuma  24 

Monuments,  City  of  Mexico 94 

Moon,  Pyramid  of  the 133 

Moonstone  303 

Morelia  215 

Morelos  Division  206 

Mountain  Altitudes  12 

Mountains  ii 

Museum  78 

Nacional,  Teatro  62 

National  School  of  Fine  Arts 75 

National  Library 74 

National  Museum  78 

National  Palace 87 

National  Pawnshop  82 

Nazas,  The 9 

Netzahualcoyotl  253 

Newspapers  SA 

Nickel  Riots  40 

Noche  Triste 72 

Nochistongo  132 

Nogales  318 

Notable  Buildings 87 

Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Angeles. ..  .112 
Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Concepcion.  104 
Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Encarnacion.io6 
Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Loreto. ...  112 
Nuestra  Senora  de  Monseratte. . . 114 

Oaxaca  220 

Ocoyocac  302 

Official  Permits  59 

Olivar,  El 311 

Opals  244 


349 


Puebla,  Cathedral  of 

Puente  de  Dios 

Pulque 


Page 

Orizaba  224 

Orizaba,  Peak  of 286 

Orrin,  Circus 62 

Otumba  294 

Pacanda,  Island  of 233 

Pachuca  226 

Palace,  The  National 87 

Palacio  del  Ayuntumiento 90 

Palenque 228 

Palo  Alto  35 

Panteons  91 

Panteon  of  Guanajuato 190 

Papaloapan,  The ....9 

Panuco,  Rio  251 

Parks  91 

Parras  229 

Paseo  de  Bucareli 92 

Paseo  de  la  Reforma 92 

Paseos  91 

Paseo  de  la  Viga 93 

Paso  del  Macho 288 

Patio  Process 15 

Patzcuaro  230 

Patzcuaro,  Lake  9,  229 

Permits  59 

Piedad,  La 131 

Plaza  Mayor  de  la  Constitucion. . .91 

Plazas  91 

Plaza  de  Toros 64 

Police  51 

Popocatepetl,  Ascent  of 160 

Postage  53 

Porta  Coeli  115 

Pottery  of  Guadalajara 185 

Practical  Matters  43 

Preparatory  School  84 

Profesa,  La  ii5 

Protestantism  120 

Protestant  Churches 120 

Public  Buildings  87 

Puebla  233 


Page 
. .236 
..281 

. ..13 


Queretaro  240 

Quetzalcoatl  238 

Quiroga,  Bishop  219 

Races  63 

Railroads  16 

Railway  Rides  of  Mexico 269 

Railway  Tickets  43 

Real  del  Monte 227 

Reboso  57 

Resaca  de  la  Palma 35 

Restaurants  47 

Revolution,  The  31 

Revillagigedo,  Conde  de 30 

Rio  Grande,  The 9 

Rio  Grande,  S.  M.  & Pac.  Ry.21,  305 

Rivers  8 

Ruins  of  Mitla ...201 

Rurales  52 

Sacrificial  Stone  78 

Sacred  Mountain 160 

Sacro  Monte 160 

Saddle  Mountain 21 1 

Sagrario  Metropolitano 100 

Sayula  250 

Salm-Salm  Princess 241 

Salon  de  Conceirtos 62 

Saltillo  245 

Salvatierra  246 

San  Angel 125 

San  Hipolito,  City  of  Mexico. ...  109 

San  Juan  Teotihuacan 284 

San  Juan  de  Ulua,  Island  of 261 

San  Luis  Potosi 246 

San  Miguel  de  Allende 248 

San  Pedro  184 

Santa  Ana  35 

Santa  Eulalia  268 


350 


Page 

School  of  Agriculture 84 

Schools  and  Colleges 83-84 

School  of  Medicine 84 

School  of  Mines 83 

Sculptor,  Indian  185 

Servants  54 

Shopping  49 

Silao  250 

Silla,  Cerro  de  la 21 1 

Sonora  Railroad 19,  318 

South  Over  the  Mexican  Central.  .267 

South  Over  Mex.,  Cuer.  & Pac.  .310 

South  Over  the  National 298 

South  Over  the  Sonora  Railway.  .318 
South  Over  the  Southern  Railway. 306 

Standard  of  the  Conquest 26 

Standard  of  Independence 32 

Statues,  City  of  Mexico 94 

Steamer  Lines 21 

Stores  49 

Strawberries  

Street  Cars 46 

Streets,  City  of  Mexico 54 

Sun,  Pyramid  of  the 133 

Table-lands  12 

Tacubaya  126 

Tehuacan  308 

Tehuantepec  Ry 21,  319 

Tajo  de  Nochistongo 132 

Tampico  251 

Tapalo 57 

Teatro  Principal  61 

Teatro  Nacional  62 

Telegraph 53 

Tamasopo  Canon 277 

Tenochtitlan  71 

Tenochtitlan,  Siege  of 27 

Tequila  i3 

Tetzcotzinco  136 

Texcoco i34>  253 

Texcoco,  Lake ii 


Pag6 

Titian,  Picture  by 232 

Theatres,  City  of  Mexico 61 

Theological  Seminary  84 

Tlacolula  205 

Tlalnepantla  132 

Tlalpam  128 

Tlaxcala  254 

Tobacco  49 

Toluca  257 

Tomellin  310 

Topo  Chico 212 

Torreon  269 

Travel  in  Mexico 43 

Treaty  of  Cordoba 32 

Treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo 36 

Treaty  of  La  Soledad. 38 

Treaty  of  London 38 

Tree  of  the  Noche  Triste 27 

Tresguerras,  Eduardo 167 

Tula  259 

Tule,  The  Big  Tree  of 204 

Two  Serpents’  Heads 81 

Tzintzuntzan  231 

United  States  of  Mexico 320 

Usumacinta,  The  Rio 9 

Vanegas,  Cedral  & Matehuala  R.R.21 

Vera  Cruz  260 

Viceroys  29 

Victoria 31? 

War  with  United  States 35 

Water-clock,  Heavenly 104 

Westward  Over  the  International.. 288 

Westward  from  Acambaro 304 

Westward  to  Guadalajara. 273 

Xaltocan  n 

Xanicho,  Island  of 233 

Xaracuaro,  Island  of 233 

Xicaca  80 


S61 


Page 

Xochimilco,  Lake ii 

Yautepec  . 261 

Yturbidc .32,  89 

Zapotlan  266 


Page 


Zacatecas 262 

Zerapes  56 

Zocalo  91 

Zopilote,  Canon  of 301 

Zumpango  ii 


— 

i’‘  ^ 

CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


